Worked great! Batteries last for Days now. Only thing I would watch out for is that your careful when removing batteries. I was able to use pliers to either cut the welds or pull the nickel plating apart. I used a spot welder off of Amazon and Eve batteries from the 18650 battery store.
I re-purpose good cells from new but faulty packs. Ideally you want cells with a discharge rating of 20a (Samsung 20r) however I've have zero problems with cells rated at 10a discharge. The exception being on dewalt 2ah packs, I only use 20a rated cells in them as there is only one row of cells.
Side cutters can be used to roll the original strips off but a VERY powerful spot welder is required to re-weld these strips as they are quite thick. If extra current capacity is required, 2 layers of replacement strips can be used (one layer welded at a time).
Takes more time to get them off the cells without screwing them up. Absolutely not worth it and as Spennaz said, the factory nickel bus is usually .25mm thick...pure nickel. My spot welder won't do it. I spot a layer of .1mm and overlay with .12mm, or .15mm...
Done this on several batteries, and the charger no longer accepts them. Always show as faulty after being rebuilt ? Tried several different chargers, and always the same result.
Were they working previously to reoackingI've? I've done 3x snap-on of this model and all powered backup without a problem. Im not sure on these ones, but Maikita lock the board if it gets 3 failed charges in a row so I make sure they are working before I repack them.
@@spinnanz The modern Snapon batteries now have intricate tamper proof chips fitted. Your process works very well with the early models, but any tampering shuts the latest batteries down. There was a way around this by fitting the cells from lowest voltage up to the highest voltage, but this only works on batteries over a certain age. Snapon are making sure that you buy new batteries and not repair your weak ones. They probably search for latest techniques to repair, and come up with ways to stop the DIY mechanic from doing his own rebuilds.
@@plister9418 if that's the case, I'd see 3 options. First would be to apply a constant 18v to the BMS via a power supply, so it remains powered while the cells are removed. If above didn't work, my second would be the same as above but powered via a small 5s pack, so the ballance connections also remain powered. Third, I'd get an after-market replacement bms, which seem to be $7-$15 depending on the make and model.
@@spinnanz A piggyback battery is the only way I have been able to fool the new chips. Ten temporary wires soldered in parallel to the battery works great. It makes the work a little more time consuming, but does the trick. Great work by the way.
I should have read this comment before starting work on a snapon pack. I disconnected the BMS and I guess I triggered the anti-tamper feature on the board. runs the drill with the new cells and I have 20 volts but the charger shows a fault. Thanks for the video and the commentary down here in the comments. Great resource.
Worked great! Batteries last for Days now. Only thing I would watch out for is that your careful when removing batteries. I was able to use pliers to either cut the welds or pull the nickel plating apart. I used a spot welder off of Amazon and Eve batteries from the 18650 battery store.
Where did you purchase your replacement batteries?
I re-purpose good cells from new but faulty packs.
Ideally you want cells with a discharge rating of 20a (Samsung 20r) however I've have zero problems with cells rated at 10a discharge. The exception being on dewalt 2ah packs, I only use 20a rated cells in them as there is only one row of cells.
Try these...Liion Wholesale, Full Battery, 18650 Battery Store, Battery World, M&A BD Electronics..
it should be a way to unweld those welding points to reuse those nickels. What do u think? thanks for sharing.
Side cutters can be used to roll the original strips off but a VERY powerful spot welder is required to re-weld these strips as they are quite thick.
If extra current capacity is required, 2 layers of replacement strips can be used (one layer welded at a time).
Takes more time to get them off the cells without screwing them up. Absolutely not worth it and as Spennaz said, the factory nickel bus is usually .25mm thick...pure nickel. My spot welder won't do it. I spot a layer of .1mm and overlay with .12mm, or .15mm...
Done this on several batteries, and the charger no longer accepts them.
Always show as faulty after being rebuilt ?
Tried several different chargers, and always the same result.
Were they working previously to reoackingI've? I've done 3x snap-on of this model and all powered backup without a problem.
Im not sure on these ones, but Maikita lock the board if it gets 3 failed charges in a row so I make sure they are working before I repack them.
@@spinnanz The modern Snapon batteries now have intricate tamper proof chips fitted.
Your process works very well with the early models, but any tampering shuts the latest batteries down.
There was a way around this by fitting the cells from lowest voltage up to the highest voltage, but this only works on batteries over a certain age.
Snapon are making sure that you buy new batteries and not repair your weak ones.
They probably search for latest techniques to repair, and come up with ways to stop the DIY mechanic from doing his own rebuilds.
@@plister9418 if that's the case, I'd see 3 options.
First would be to apply a constant 18v to the BMS via a power supply, so it remains powered while the cells are removed.
If above didn't work, my second would be the same as above but powered via a small 5s pack, so the ballance connections also remain powered.
Third, I'd get an after-market replacement bms, which seem to be $7-$15 depending on the make and model.
@@spinnanz A piggyback battery is the only way I have been able to fool the new chips.
Ten temporary wires soldered in parallel to the battery works great.
It makes the work a little more time consuming, but does the trick.
Great work by the way.
I should have read this comment before starting work on a snapon pack. I disconnected the BMS and I guess I triggered the anti-tamper feature on the board. runs the drill with the new cells and I have 20 volts but the charger shows a fault. Thanks for the video and the commentary down here in the comments. Great resource.