Accidentally, I plugged both hw 1080’s esc’s with their red wire…..nothing wrong happened to the receiver. Only had to turn on one esc, yet both motors ran (stock rc4wd brushed motors). My homemade connector, to connect both esc’s to one battery, came undone due to my novice soldering, yet both motors still spun, though one of them was no longer directly connected to the battery. Mysteries of electronics. Still I fixed the split connector to make sure both motors get proper amperage.
Very nice build brotha. What front weights did you go with I am going to assume dlux. If so when you ordered them do you have a picture of what boxes you clicked when building the weights. I am new to the MOA bully platform. I want to order the weights just need some guidance.
Hello!!! Thank you for the vidéo . Do you think, with the radiolink rc8x, it's possible to have a proportional DIG with the VR knob Switch? Like on the sanwa mt4 transmitter.
Could you explain your wiring ? Im running HH mini dual an wanting to go brushless. Are both Battery connectors spliced to one or are you running 1 battery per motor
Hello, please help me out here! So if i get it correctly you need to connect the two esc power leads together, red together with red and black together with black. Is it correct that i could use a y cable instead?
Nope, I have slight rub on the end of the motor can in the rear, but little enough that I can live with it. I don't believe it's causing any issues. Crawls wonderfully!
Yes you can get longer rod ends on the upper links I believe but I would put something like a soda bottle that clean around the motors to prevent scratching.@@davidconaway2830
Can the radio not do 3 position on the thumb switch so you have 4WD/front/rear dig on one switch rather than using a separate switch to go back to 4WD? I like the idea of the fusion with built in esc, but at 7.3oz compared to 4.7oz of a Holmes Magnum stubby or 4.6oz of a Puller 400, it's just too much weight difference for me.
Without battery (and without the wheel weights) the rig as shown, ready to go is just over 4lbs which is quite light. The extra 6ish ounces of weight for me down low are welcome. I haven't had the chance yet to play with setting additional buttons up, but what you want to do may be possible. My only issue with that is if possible, you have to click through each setting to get back to anther. It works out to one extra click. What I mean is let's say it's setup like a 3-position switch and each click advances it one position. If position 1 is 4wd, 2 is front dig, and 3 is rear dig. If you're in rear dig and want to switch to front dig, you'd have to click it twice to get there, versus my current setup of just hitting the corresponding button up once. That could matter in competition where time matters. Thanks for your input! I appreciate the view!
@@thercrundown203 when you clock the rear axle to get the motor out of the way, you're lifting extra ounces above the axle. Not sure if the fusion fits it, but look into the Progressive RC rear Bully axle. It tucks the motor 8n closetlr to the axle, and it weighs less than half the stock Bully axle. I run Sanwa radio, and my thumb button is 4WD centre of button and front rear dig either side. It's one click down to lock the rear, and back up for 4WD again. Opposite for locking the front. I only need to use the thumb that's on the handle grip, and not move from the wheel it's more fluent. I tried a Noble 4 and it was the same as you're using. It needed more than one button to do what one button can do. When you're on a course and times ticking away, you want the radio movement to be fluent, without over thinking.
@TheRCRundown Hello! I just built a bully 2 and I have the rc6gsv3 radio and I cant for the life of me figure out how to setup dig and overdrive. any help would be amazing thank you.
Sorry, but I haven't owned that radio for years. I know you can do dual motor/esc setups from what I remember, but not sure about how it works (or if it can) with Dig/overdrive.
If you only have one esc, you need a an electronic dig unit. Look at the bully 2 manual, there you can clearly see how the dig unit works. If you have 2 esc’s, recommended, then you will plug each esc on an independent channel. You combine how the escs/motors work together using the mix function, granted the rc6gsv3 unit allows for mixing channels. If the rc6gsv3 doesnt do channel mixing, you will need an electronic dig unit, which may be purchased form rc4wd
You will not blow the receiver because it receive to much voltage! Voltage don't add up they are plugged in parallel! You might end up burning something, but it ain't gonna be because "voltage added up".
Thanks for clarifying. I misspoke. Having two BECs (when built into the esc) can cause issues as you said, especially with esc's cutting out, or doing weird things with the voltage. I've heard of it "backfeeding" to the opposite esc and essentially ruining it.
I want this exact setup that’s awesome
It's an incredible rig for sure!
Very interesting, I have a moa but want to add switchable 4 wheel steer
Wow. All I can say . What I would give for this set up
Accidentally, I plugged both hw 1080’s esc’s with their red wire…..nothing wrong happened to the receiver. Only had to turn on one esc, yet both motors ran (stock rc4wd brushed motors). My homemade connector, to connect both esc’s to one battery, came undone due to my novice soldering, yet both motors still spun, though one of them was no longer directly connected to the battery. Mysteries of electronics. Still I fixed the split connector to make sure both motors get proper amperage.
Great video thankyou…subbed dude! What run time are you getting from that lipo?
Very nice build brotha. What front weights did you go with I am going to assume dlux. If so when you ordered them do you have a picture of what boxes you clicked when building the weights. I am new to the MOA bully platform. I want to order the weights just need some guidance.
I actually went with the RC4WD Bully weights. So far it's been performing well so hadn't felt the need to swap to the Dlux.
Can you do a video on how to select the different switches on the radiolink 8
Hello!!! Thank you for the vidéo . Do you think, with the radiolink rc8x, it's possible to have a proportional DIG with the VR knob Switch?
Like on the sanwa mt4 transmitter.
Hi, my Bully is still runing the stock motors. Now i must have these motors !😮 What pinion do i need ?
Thx 4 the Video 👍👍
Did you have to bend the links to get the motors to fit?
Could you explain your wiring ? Im running HH mini dual an wanting to go brushless.
Are both Battery connectors spliced to one or are you running 1 battery per motor
Yes, both battery connectors are soliced together from each esc. Was running all on one battery.
The mini dual is brushed only if I’m not mistaken
@JohnGrenoble correct. I never like the mini dual/brushed setup so I went brushless hobbywing fusions
what kind of power supply do i see in your videos? the power supply for your charger.
Hello, please help me out here! So if i get it correctly you need to connect the two esc power leads together, red together with red and black together with black. Is it correct that i could use a y cable instead?
Did you have to do anything mods to get the fusions to fit in around the links. I just received my bully2 today to fusions look tight
Nope, I have slight rub on the end of the motor can in the rear, but little enough that I can live with it. I don't believe it's causing any issues. Crawls wonderfully!
Very nice, but as you know, those motors will get pretty scratched when you start rock crawling…
Yep, it's definitely happening already. Nothing too bad though so far.
Is there a solution to rotate the motors up a bit?
Yes you can get longer rod ends on the upper links I believe but I would put something like a soda bottle that clean around the motors to prevent scratching.@@davidconaway2830
Friend, where can I buy this cage of your rc? I want to build a similar one, can you help me? thanks
I installed fusion pro's as you did on your moa but my rear motor overpowers front motor, any suggestions.
Yea… put a brushed back in there
Can the radio not do 3 position on the thumb switch so you have 4WD/front/rear dig on one switch rather than using a separate switch to go back to 4WD? I like the idea of the fusion with built in esc, but at 7.3oz compared to 4.7oz of a Holmes Magnum stubby or 4.6oz of a Puller 400, it's just too much weight difference for me.
Without battery (and without the wheel weights) the rig as shown, ready to go is just over 4lbs which is quite light. The extra 6ish ounces of weight for me down low are welcome. I haven't had the chance yet to play with setting additional buttons up, but what you want to do may be possible. My only issue with that is if possible, you have to click through each setting to get back to anther. It works out to one extra click. What I mean is let's say it's setup like a 3-position switch and each click advances it one position. If position 1 is 4wd, 2 is front dig, and 3 is rear dig. If you're in rear dig and want to switch to front dig, you'd have to click it twice to get there, versus my current setup of just hitting the corresponding button up once. That could matter in competition where time matters.
Thanks for your input! I appreciate the view!
@@thercrundown203 when you clock the rear axle to get the motor out of the way, you're lifting extra ounces above the axle. Not sure if the fusion fits it, but look into the Progressive RC rear Bully axle. It tucks the motor 8n closetlr to the axle, and it weighs less than half the stock Bully axle.
I run Sanwa radio, and my thumb button is 4WD centre of button and front rear dig either side. It's one click down to lock the rear, and back up for 4WD again. Opposite for locking the front. I only need to use the thumb that's on the handle grip, and not move from the wheel it's more fluent. I tried a Noble 4 and it was the same as you're using. It needed more than one button to do what one button can do. When you're on a course and times ticking away, you want the radio movement to be fluent, without over thinking.
Hello, sir. You can set 3 position switch on RC8X. Here is tutorial of it: ua-cam.com/video/6YpKuzUdwQQ/v-deo.html
@@Radiolink_official That's helpful. Thank you!
@@Radiolink_official Thank you for the tutorial
So where’s the update running videos?
@TheRCRundown Hello! I just built a bully 2 and I have the rc6gsv3 radio and I cant for the life of me figure out how to setup dig and overdrive. any help would be amazing thank you.
Sorry, but I haven't owned that radio for years. I know you can do dual motor/esc setups from what I remember, but not sure about how it works (or if it can) with Dig/overdrive.
If you only have one esc, you need a an electronic dig unit. Look at the bully 2 manual, there you can clearly see how the dig unit works. If you have 2 esc’s, recommended, then you will plug each esc on an independent channel. You combine how the escs/motors work together using the mix function, granted the rc6gsv3 unit allows for mixing channels. If the rc6gsv3 doesnt do channel mixing, you will need an electronic dig unit, which may be purchased form rc4wd
You will not blow the receiver because it receive to much voltage! Voltage don't add up they are plugged in parallel!
You might end up burning something, but it ain't gonna be because "voltage added up".
Thanks for clarifying. I misspoke. Having two BECs (when built into the esc) can cause issues as you said, especially with esc's cutting out, or doing weird things with the voltage. I've heard of it "backfeeding" to the opposite esc and essentially ruining it.