*VERY IMPORTANT. PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE STARTING THIS REPAIR* 1) The original axle tool we used made made by Durasolid is no longer the best tool for the job in our opinion. The tool we now recommend is made by this guy Duane that sells them on Ebay. It is a very well-designed tool that saves you time and money. Here's a link to Duane's Ebay store: www.ebay.com/usr/donald-the-bonald?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 Here's a link to a video showing us using the new tool: ua-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/v-deo.html Also, here's a direct link to Axle Puller/Installer for sale on Duane's Ebay store we used in that video: www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Axle-Bearing-Tone-Ring-Puller-Bearing-Install-Tools-Toyota-4Runner-84-02/203187764458?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338641100&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1 2) There are many Ebay stores selling a Chinese Copy of Duane's tool. Please do not reward these dishonest people by buying the tool from them. Duane makes his tools at his home in Omaha Nebraska. He has changed the color of his tool to BLUE to differentiate it from all the Chinese Copies being sold on Ebay. Please support Duane and Buy American! Update 12/07/21 - the Chinese copiers are now undercutting Duane's prices so drastically that he would take a loss if he sold the tool for the price they are offering it for. The only way Duane can give you a more competitive price is if you email him directly and take the Ebay middle man out of it. Duane's email address is: *dtb2253x@**yahoo.com* 3) Some people have reported that even after doing everything right, they still had gear oil getting past the seal. One culprit ended up being the metal to metal connection of the axle seal with the axle housing. For some people, a previous mechanic or DIYer might have not been very careful and scored the axle housing with a seal puller or other tool. Others might have had no detectable imperfection in the axle housing but they still had gear oil sneak past that metal to metal connection of the axle seal and axle housing. A fix that will work for this situation is cleaning up the surface of the axle housing with acetone or denatured alcohol and doing the same with the outer surface of a new axle seal. Smear some Toyota Red FIPG which is meant to work with gear oil applications or a similar gasket sealer meant to work with gear oil onto the axle housing sealing surface and also some on the seal itself and then drive it in. The FIPG will fill any tiny imperfections in the metal and hopefully stop gear oil from being able to get past this connection. 4) When using the flipped inner retainer technique, it appeared 5mm of polished axle showing was about perfect to get the seal lip riding dead center on the shoulder of the retainer. After pulling some axles from rigs we did this job on a couple years ago, it looks like 4mm of polished axle showing would be a better initial measurement to use. With that said, you still need to verify you have a good mating of the seal and inner retainer by performing a grease of sharpie test. After that initial grease or sharpie test, you'll now if you got it perfect or you'll need to do some adjustment. Does the seal absolutely need to ride dead center on the retainer? The answer is no. Somewhere close is fine. The reason why you want it close to center is to allow for axle play as the bearing ages. If you're close to the one of the edges, the axle play could allow the seal to not ride on the retainer and then you'll develop a leak. 5) On the back side of the axle face there's a metal enclosure which is an "Oil Director" (our term, not Toyota's) By design, if the oil seal fails, oil will eventually work it's way through the bearing, flow out through the dust seal into the Oil Director and then get spun out into the wheel through the hole in the axle flange and finally through a hole in the brake drum. As part of this job, it wouldn't be a bad idea to shoot some brake cleaner into the exit hole on the axle flange and also spray it directly into the oil director from the back side to clean it out of any residual gear oil. You wouldn't want your brand new brake shoes potentially getting contaminated with gear oil from the residual left inside the Oil Director.
I can't remember if I posted a comment around a year or so ago, back when I first watched this video, but either way, here goes: The first time I watched THIS PRICELESS VIDEO, I shared this information about flipping the retainer ( including using grease to create a witness mark for test-fitting ) plus the title of this video with my friend Dennis, who owns & runs a local transmission shop in my area for decades now. I paid him to do this job on both sides of my rear axles. ( Dennis fabricated his own parts to work with his shop press explicitly for these Toyota rear ends a few years back. He also happens to be one of the most trusted & respected transmission specialists in Brevard county Florida. ) After verbally explaining to him, he watched your video that evening, and used the flipping of the retainer technique while doing my rear axles the very next day. HE WAS VERY IMPRESSED & PLEASED WITH YOUR VALUABLE INFORMATION IN THIS VIDEO. ( And I know my inner seals have a bigger contact area on the retainers. ) So even if a man is paying a shop to do work, often times, these excellent videos & information still comes in quite handy for "teaching an old dog a new trick" such as Dennis! He and I are BOTH grateful. THANKS GUYS.........YOU ARE THE BEST!!!
Just got back from King Of The Hammers and broke a Chromoly Rear shaft. I saw many IFS length shafts broke wish I had my press down there and this video! Going to pull my old one apart off my 86 4runner and waiting for new shafts from Marlin Crawler so I can put my disk break conversion back on the new shaft! Thanks for the great videos! Used your duel case rebuild video this year also!
Thank you for this fantastic and entertaining video. Maybe this was mentioned already, but #90311-50001 is the discontinued axle seal for early 3rd gen 4Runners and 1st gen Tacomas. Also, Timken or National #1960 is a replica. This brings the retainer and seal mating surface back into spec. Why Toyota discontinued 50001 is beyond me. The aftermarket has not discontinued theirs... There are two different part numbers recommended depending on whether you have an early or late model 1st gen Tacoma: 1995-1999 (part #1960) vs. 2000-2004 (part #710649) by both National Oil Seal and Timken at O'Reilly's. I went with National for my 1998 2.4L 2WD.
The Timken and National seals are similar to the original OEM seal, but I don't think they are as good as the redesigned seal Toyota made. The new Toyota seal is very pliable allowing for movement in the axle as the bearing wears without damaging the seal. Marlin Crawler also makes a seal that mimics where the original seal lip would ride but I don't know if their seal is as good as the redesigned Toyota seal either. If I were to take a chance on any of those 3 aftermarket seals, I'd give the Marlin Crawler Eco Seal a try. I'm running Marlin Crawler Eco Seals on the front axle of my 85 4runner and they seem to be holding just fine.
Thank you very much for your persistence in showing "us" the test for the new seal not working. I did a full rear end re-fit on my Hilux a few short months ago only to be surprised to see the oil trail on one side, it makes sense now. cheers
Colin James Niehus You're welcome Colin. We wanted to make it very clear that this repair wasn't just a simple case of replacing a seal and calling it good. By making this video and the one for ABS rearends, we're hoping people will now understand this repair better so the repair will be successful whether they're doing the whole job themselves, pulling the axles and letting a shop do the press work or paying a shop to do the whole thing. When it comes to shops doing the work for you, it definitely doesn't hurt for you to share your knowledge of the repair with them because shop mechanics and machine shop techs screw up this repair all the time. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks to you both, all going well I will be content with the effort I`v put into and not totally pissed off lol cheers boys anymore info on your Toyota work I`m all ears this one is 15 this year and 428,000 k`s by me my 3rd Hilux ;)
It's crazy how much these tools cost ($300+, $130+???) to use to replace these bearings.. and even crazier is how much research I did and reading and reading and different methods I tried and fabricated that failed to dissasemble my axle.. and you know what really blows my mind? I ended up simply using two 4 inch 3/8 bolts and nuts to finally do the job!!! Just smack out 2 studs on opposite sides, slide a 4in 3/8 bolt in from the axle side and thread a nut on the under side and slowly/carefully tighten the bolts!! Haha! They will press it all apart! I still can't believe I never saw or read online about a single person doing it this way but it was so simple..
Well, you got it done and that's what is important. When you factor in what shops want to charge for doing the presswork, the tool pays for itself. You can then decide to keep it or sell it. If you sell it, you'll recoup a decent percentage of your money. The tool we like is featured in our ABS Part 2 video. It's especially functional for ABS rigs.
Thank you Tim for this VERY detailed video. I just bought my first 3rd gen a few days ago and going through it today underneath, I seen the tell tale sign of a shot seal(grease pudding on the backing plate). I was hoping that you had this video and thankfully you did. So again, Thank You!
Those ABS gears were spendy. Hahaha I altered the order before it got out of the door. Thank you for the heads up. I want to get one of those pullers you have. If you have said the company that makes it, I have missed it.
Check the video description. I have links to the tools I used there. Going forward, if you're going to use a video of ours, always check the video description and pinned comments for helpful information. I can't speak for other automotive UA-camrs, but with our channel, we usually put a fair amount of useful information in the video description. With the pinned comments, it's usually an update since the repair to share helpful and important things we didn't know at the time we filmed the job.
Early stages of our journey filming for UA-cam. Glad you liked the video and def check out our newer videos so see our audio and video improvements. - Sean
@@bobbyd7363 Hey Bobby, we have zero issues with someone like yourself. Constructive criticism given in a tactful way is received well. We know our earlier camera work wasn't the greatest so we're not offended when people mention it in a tactful way. If you would have just said, "Hey, you guys suck!" You would have gotten a much different response. You started off by saying "Great Video", and that is appreciated because you're acknowledging what we have shared with the DIY Auto Mechanic Community. So, Happy Wrenching Bobby! Comment any time. - Timmy
It matters for some years. The 1996-2000 has a bearing that can go in either way. The 2001-2002 bearings have a flange appendage that need to face the axle flange. It will be pretty obvious.
Hey Timmy, I don't know if you'll see this comment on this old video. But I've got some seriously rusted out back plates on my 1991 rear drums and I want to replace them. Some sources online say I'll have to pull the whole thing apart and replace the bearing and seals and others say I can just peel the things apart and bolt it to the new black plate
The only way you can get an old plate off and new plate on is by cutting it. You'd have to cut the new backing plate in half to get it on because the axle goes through it. So, unless you want to cut it in half, you'll have to do the presswork to separate the backing plate from the axle.
No they are not, the rear axle housing on an ABS version has a hole for the ABS sensor, the non-ABS version does not have a hole in the axle housing -Sean
I'm needing new bearings on my 2000 Tacoma and just put in a order on Toyota parts site for new parts. Got an email back saying that they have 2 other orders on hold for these bearings with NO ETA from Toyota as to when it will be fulfilled. So, I guess aftermarket it is.
Yeah, we heard this recently from another person. I have no idea what's going through Toyota's mind with discontinuing these bearings. Tons of Toyotas still use those bearings.
Timmy, Question I have minor leaking rear end. Me and mechanic friend replaced only the seal about 4 months ago. Bearing looked great with no play? Well, took off to paint my drums and its leaking again! Humm we’ll didn’t know if I should replace seal again or do the bearing or what. Checked diff. Breather and cleaned and can blow air through.Wondered if new seal is like you we’re saying in video about riding wrong on retainer ring.Maybe I should do the grease test to see where new seal is riding on retainer ring. I would have to take axle to shop to have bearing pressed on don’t have tools.I just don’t know if bearing can be bad with no play.Could you advise? Thanks a lot I’m glad I ran into this video. You seem very knowledgeable about these rear ends and frankly I don’t trust all mechanics.
The grease test is good riding on a NEW retainer. The worn retainer could let fluid sneak by OR mostly likely it is NOT riding on the seal correctly. If the bearing gets gear oil in it, the grease is likely washed out and exacerbates the play leading to more leaking.
Tim, I have my axle on my work bench now and looking at the witness mark and it is right in the middle of the retainer. Now when I slide the old seal on to the retainer and the seal is about 1/4" thick is the witness mark, if it was in the same spot before I removed it going to line up with the outer side of the seal, or the inner side, or right in the middle of the old seal. In other words the outer side of the seal being the side you put the seal driver on to hammer it in and the inner being the opposite side. I am just trying to figure out where on the retainer the left side is and on the right side of the vehicle. I hammered one side just a tiny bit more then flush with the cavity and the one I did today I hammered it in about 1/8" which is more then the other side.
@@richarddiaz8248 Yes, the repair was a success. Watch Part 2 and also read the comment I pinned (1st comment you see) for further information on this repair. ua-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/v-deo.htmlsi=r5ZF88a1h3hJCqfb
Tim, Talked to you Sunday about that rear axle seal. Just wanted to say thanks again. I am replacing my rear pinion seal where the drive shaft connects to the diff and I cannot find the torque spec anywhere. Cannot find it on the Toyota forums and thought you might know how to find it online. I called and talked to a Toyota mechanic and he gave me 110 ft. lbs or 9 inch lbs. I did the conversion and I think he got this backwards. he said it should be about like a lug nut which would be more like the 110 ft. lbs, but there is a bearing right behind that nut so 110 ft. lbs I believe would be way too much. it is on a 1991 Toyota Previa 2wd. I could really mess things up if it is suppose to be 9 inch lbs instead of 110 ft. lbs. So thought you might know how to look this up online very difficult if not impossible to talk to someone at Toyota dealer nobody wants to help.
If I were you, I'd buy a subscription to Toyota Tech Info. You could buy a 2-day subscription for $15 and look up everything you want. Here's a link: techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_page&contextType=external&username=string&challenge_url=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%2FtechInfoPortal%2Flogin%2Ftechinfo&password=secure_string&request_id=4023127930795058357&authn_try_count=0&locale=en_US&resource_url=https%253A%252F%252Ftechinfo.toyota.com%252F
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you for the quick reply. I just had a mechanic try to fix it & it leaks more then when I did it here I go again. Top notch videos .
@@sapshootervt Good luck Brian. Be sure to watch Part 2 and read the video description and the comment we pinned. There's important information in both areas. ua-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/v-deo.html
I believe my rear axle seal is leaking on my 08 Tacoma. I recently had my truck towed home when my U-Joint failed. The tow truck driver pointed out oil all over my rear drum and told me my seal is failed. I also have heard some metal clanking sounding like metal gears raking into each other. 😟 I started with this video. Lots of information. I have never touched anything like this job, nor do i know all of the terminology of parts.(seals, retainers, etc.) Your video had me feeling pretty confident I could tackle this until it came to measurements and grease test.😵💫 Im not sure I understand what the purpose of this is. I think If i could figure this out, I will take the axles to a local shop to have the bearings pressed out and on. Any help will be appreciated.
The measurements and grease test is to make sure you get a good mating of the axle seal with the inner retainer. If you don't achieve that, the repair was a waste of time. I'm assuming you have ABS so watch our ABS version of this video. Watch our Part 2 video for this repair as well. Also read the comments we pinned (1st Comment you see). Once you do all that, I think you'll be prepared for the job.
@@wesleysriffle I can't say because I've never done axle bearings and seals on a 2nd Gen Tacoma. Duane, who sells the special service tool on Ebay could give you a hint. He sells adapters for basically every model Toyota SUV and Truck in existence. We provide a link to his Ebay store in the video description. Send him a message and ask. It's my guess it's a slightly different but similar.
Hey Tim! I have a 2002 tundra w/out ABS. The rear right side tire is showing wear on the outer edge. I have rotated the tires and the wear continues. I also have a intermittent growling sound from the rear when traveling 30 mph +. Is this the bearing? I have no signs of differential fluid leakage and this has been happening for a few yrs now. I don't put a lot of miles on. Can I take out the axle and inspect the bearing w/out replacing the seals? Thanks for the video! It's great!
A growling sound could be a bad bearing. It could also be the rear differential or something else entirely because noises can be difficult to pinpoint where they originate from. Yes, you could pull the axle out to inspect the bearing without replacing the seal. You just have to be careful pulling the shaft out and putting it back in. You don't want the weight of the shaft on the seal. You want to support the shaft and pull the axle straight out. The uneven wear on the right rear tire seems a bit strange to me. There's no alignment capability to the rear tires. Maybe there's something up with the rear shocks or leaf springs causing the rear end to track funny causing the uneven wear. Maybe an alignment shop with experienced techs could help you figure it out.
Timmy, I wished I had a video on how to do this for my 1991 Toyota Previa. The only reason I am keeping it is I talked to a Toyota Mechanic about selling it after the kids were grown up and he told me to keep it because the 2.4 in that van is one of the best engines Toyota ever made. Not sure what to do about my rear axle seal leaking. I was thinking if the rear wheel bearings are sealed bearings and a little axle grease got past the seal and into the bearing area maybe they would be ok if I just pulled the axle and replaced the axle seal only. I just don't have those special tools. Would you say that all Toyota rear bearings are the same as far as your demo of pressing them off/on
Any experience with the Marlin Crawler "Heavy Duty Rear Axle EcoSeal"? I'm wondering if the indexing flange puts the seal lip back to the original inboard/outboard location. Their web site states the oversize indexing flange prevents misaligned installations, and the offset seal location prevents leaks from worn or damaged axle shafts.
No experience with the Marlin Crawler seals for this application. Marlin Crawler does make good stuff so it's worth a try. If you give their seal a try, do the sharpie or grease test and share the results with us.
@@TimmyTheToolman Grease test showed the "Ecoseal" was exactly where it needed to be without having to flip the bearing retainer. Also I purchased the axle tool from Duane and was able to use it to push my axle seals in rather than using the seal driver to "pound and pray" them in. Basically, the tone ring removal tool can be used install the axle seals by putting the bolt heads on the backside of the axle housing, put your seal and bearing driver in place, then put the u-shaped plate on the bolts and install the nuts. Now the nuts can be evenly tightened pushing your bearing driver against the seal and pushing it into place. If the included bolts were 15-20mm longer it would be ideal. I can share pictures of the setup if you would like to see them.
@@skjos96 Sounds like the Ecoseal is an exact replacement for the original seal in relation to where the seal lip sits. I wonder what the longevity of that seal will be. Time will tell. Your technique of installing the seal is unique. I would like to see pics of the setup. Send pics to my email address: mtbtim@sbcglobal.net
Glad you like the video. We were suppose to do a timing belt video earlier in the year on Sean's rig but his transmission failed and replacing that became the priority. We'll most likely do the timing belt video this summer.
Same here. Sometimes I find videos as a reference for what we're doing and just try to improve on the videos that are in existence but quite often the best reference is a write-up I find. And, sometimes there isn't a decent video or write-up on what we want to do and we just go for it using the Factory Service Manual as our only reference. If you're not in a hurry to do the timing belt service on your rig, we'll have a timing belt video for sure sometime this summer.
Are the parts interchangeable for ABS and Non-Abs? To explain, I have an ABS model that needs a replacement rear end. I am having a hard time finding an ABS version. Can I use the Non-ABS housing with all ABS parts inside (minus the ABS gear thingy of course)? Maybe just omit the ABS gear thing that gets pounded on?
You could do that but you'd lose ABS function because the non-ABS axle will not have the available ports at the ends of the housing to plug in the ABS sensors. So, you'd have an ABS light on your dash all the time unless you pulled the bulb or it finally burns out. You could still keep the ABS tone ring on the axle. It just wouldn't be doing anything anymore.
Hey Tim, Great video! I have a 2000 Tundra 4x4 no/abs. Just behind inner seal in housing there's a flange with like C notches. Mine is all scraped/scored up. What would have caused that? I pulled axle and there was no snap ring & retainer had slid inboard 1" or so. Pressed retainer back on with new ring. Axles loose again not sure what's up.
Sounds like there was a bearing failure in the past and it broke apart cheese grating the inside axle housing. You're saying the axle has play with all new parts and bolted to the axle housing?
@@TimmyTheToolman No I just pressed retainer back in place & put new snap ring on. I want to do all new but just concerned about condition of inside of housing. Does retainer or snap ring come in contact with damaged area inside housing? Don't want to do all new and have it be messed up.
@@richardstrickland3650 I guess it depends how bad the damage is and if there's any metal hanging. As long as you can spin the axle and the retainer doesn't hit anything, you're good. If the retainer is hitting metal, you can file or grind it away. But, if there's damage where the seal sits in the housing that could cause an issue because then that could be a pathway for gear oil to get past.
Hey Tim, as always great job on the video and thank you for posting. I was wondering what size seal driver you used to drive in the inner oil seal. thanks!
If you have one of the similar driver kits, just choose the one that's closest to the outer diameter of the seal. The one I used is just barely wider than the seal. One size smaller is too small and you would have a good chance of creasing the seal. You want to have contact over the full face of the seal because the outermost shoulder of the seal is the strongest point. I hope this helps.
awesome video gonna tackle this job next weekend. I have a 2000 TRD Tacoma ill be working on a non ABS axle, however i do have a factory e locker... anyone know if the e locker needs to be removed in order to slide out the axle shaft?
I have not performed this job on a 4th Gen so I can't advise you on this. I don't know if Toyota redesigned the seals for the 4th Gens as well. The key though is to confirm you have a good mating of the retainer with the seal by doing a sharpie or grease test. I recommend the sharpie test since it's easier to see exactly where the seal is riding on the retainer. If you're not familiar with the sharpie test, put some perpendicular black sharpie marks around the circumference of the retainer. Insert the axle and make sure it's fully seated into the axle housing by snugging up a couple of the axle nuts. Now spin the axle many turns and pull it out. Where the seal wore away the sharpie marks lets you know where the seal is riding on the retainer. If it's close to center on the retainer, you're good to go. If it's pretty close to either end of the retainer, I recommend making the proper adjustments to the retainer position on the axle and then perform the sharpie test again to confirm you got a good mating.
Timmy, Love your video's. I have a 94 Toyota 4x4 V6 P/U referred to as a 4 Runner version. Getting ready to do rear axel seals got one leaking. Wanted to know now that its been several yrs how the reversing the retainer ring has help up.
It's holding up fine Gary. All the flipping of the retainer does is allow the seal to get up onto the polished shoulder of the retainer sooner than if it had to push past the 2mm non-polished bevel first. With the Toyota seal redesign and keeping the retainer in the original orientation (bevel facing the seal), you will have to get the retainer very close to rubbing the inside of the axle housing. With the flipped retainer, you get a good mating with the seal and you're nowhere near to scraping the retainer on the inside of the axle housing. Now, what I said has to do with 3rd Gen 4runners. I don't know if for your application Toyota redesigned the seal too and there needs to be a readjustment of the retainer to get a good mating with the seal. When you pull the seal, you should compare the old seal with the new seal and see if there is a difference. If there's no difference, you won't have to do what we did. Make sense? At the end of the day, the important thing is you make sure you have a good mating of the retainer and seal by doing a grease or sharpie test to see where the seal is riding on the retainer. If you confirm a good mating, you did the job right and you can bolt it back up with confidence that the repair will last a very long time. I hope this helps.
Thank you so much for getting back to me . FYI: My truck is a perfect example of what you have touched on in this video. I did this repair 11 months ago and now its leaking. I did notice that the old seal was different when I did that repair. The seal & retainer are the same part # as in your video. I did the grease test this time before I pulled the new/old seal and saw that there was only a tiny bit of seal on the polished portion of the retainer. NO Doubt this is why it only lasted 11 mo. This time going to do the repair as outlined in your video. Again thanks for the great Videos. Stay safe Gary in Tennessee. @@TimmyTheToolman
@@garyduncan1884 You're welcome Gary. You are now probably more knowledgeable than most mechanics regarding this job. It's simply understanding that Toyota redesigned the seal, the fact you need to verify that you have a good mating of the retainer and seal, and that flipping the retainer orientation can help you achieve that good mating of the retainer and seal. It's not rocket science but private shops and dealerships screw up this job all the time.
You should have seen the look l got when I told the TOYOTA mechanic at the shop who was doing the seal & retainer work only on the axle. It was Priceless. @@TimmyTheToolman
@@garyduncan1884 Yep, guys who learn things on forums and UA-cam videos can quite often school professional mechanics. Professional mechanics aren't Gods. They don't know all and they can learn from DIY guys like ourselves.
It's not necessary but the thinking is if one side has gone bad, the other side isn't far behind. That's why most guys just do both sides and get it over with.
So at 19 minutes you are saying to flip the retainer so the bevel side faces the brakes and not the differential housing right, like the manual says to do so the seal can immediately ride on the polished area. Just to make sure I don't screw this up is the bevel on the retainer only to ease it into the hole.
Greg Brooks Yes, the bevel is meant to make it easier for the retainer to slip into the seal. But, with this new seal design, the seal is very pliable and there's no problem with the retainer sliding in via the non-beveled side. You can try it out yourself by pushing the retainer into seal and you'll see how pliable the new seal design is. This new design allows for more axle play without causing damage to the seal. So, this new seal design will allow for axle bearing wear without destroying the seal.
I have an 03 tacoma and the axle broke where the c clip groove is . Can I use a non abs axle ? I don't care about the abs working because its way easier to find a non abs axle .
If I am replacing the axle seal only what do I ask for the Inner wheel seal or outer wheel seal. Also I guess the O-RING will come with the seal kit right. Trying to find part numbers to order online.
Thanks Chris. It's a labor of love. A lot of time goes into researching the repair or mod and then performing it but I think the video editing is the most labor intensive part of it. Video editing is pretty tedious but necessary for a nice finished product. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
So, out of all these parts, what fits 02 Tundra ? I've looked up a few & Amazon say's they don't fit 02 Tundra. No ABS... ? Thank you. (Looks like I'm searching)...
I'm not sure I understand your question. Yes, you should perform a grease or sharpie test to confirm you have a good mating of the seal with the retainer.
No matter which orientation you place the retainer ring, you should always do the grease test to confirm it’s rising in the middle of the retainer and if it’s not, then you need to press on the retainer further, or pull the retainer off a little bit to get it riding in the middle - Sean
Hi Timmy, I just did one side of my axle seals however my bearings were still good so I could not flip the retainer over. I made the mistake of taking my old seal out before I could do the grease test. What I did was hammered in the old seal back in until it was flush with the axle tube to see if the grease test would go where the witness mark was and it was dead on so I hammered the new seal into the tube in about the same spot. So since I could not flip the retainer over where the beveled side goes towards the bearing, should I have hammered the seal in farther so the grease test would go past the witness mark and a little closer towards the bearing. The cavity where you put the seal in was about 3/4" deep on the axle tube so I could have hammered it in further. I was just use to all front wheel bearing seals usually just hammer in flush until they stop. Should I remove the axle again and tap the seal in about another 1/32" to 1/16" to push it past the witness mark. It was a lot of work and the witness mark was no groove at all you could not even feel it on the retainer so not sure what to do.
You're probably ok with it riding on the old witness mark. In a perfect world, you'd have it riding on a different spot on the retainer but people get away with this when replacing camshaft seals and crankshaft seals because the seal lip ends up riding on the same spot as before unless they purposely didn't drive it in as far as it could. It's only when they discover they're still leaking that they go back in and change the position of the seal so it's riding on a fresh part of the shaft. We replaced the cam and crankshaft seals on Sean's rig and he doesn't have a leak. So, if your grease test is showing you're on the old witness mark with the new seal, you must have driven in the seal 2mm shy of it bottoming out. As long as your grease test shows you're riding in a good spot on the retainer, i'd leave it alone. Now, you say your bearings are good but what are you basing this on? if there's excessive play in the bearings, that transmits to the axle shafts and then puts extra stress on the seals. A bearing with excessive play will still feel smooth. The seals can fail from age but they can also fail due to worn bearings causing too much axle movement or they can fail from a blocked differential breather. If you bearings are truly in good shape, I'm guessing you'll be leak-free for a long time. If your bearings are worn, don't be surprised if you have a seal failure sooner than you'd hope.
Well I knew I should have replaced my bearings just did not have all those expensive tools to remove. but I took the shaft in to a guy who works on pressing bearings and he told me they were still in good shape. I was kind of surprised because they have 221,000 miles on them. Does that sound like a bearing could still be good with that many miles. Also when I do the other side your recommendation is to hammer the seal in further so the grease marks go a tad bit past the witness mark right and closer to the bearing.
Yes it does. The 1st Gen Tacomas are very similar to the 3rd Gen 4runners. You commented on the video for Non-ABS Rearends. If your rig has ABS, we have an axle seal video for that type of rearend too. ua-cam.com/video/AVhSDnw2ugo/v-deo.html
It's non-ABS, hopefully it will go as well as that 4Runner. Doing my drive shaft center bearing and transmission mount at the same time. Your videos have been a great reference, thanks very much!
Hey Fred, sorry we don't have a video for that. But, we have a videos for doing the wheel bearings on a 3rd Gen 4runner. The videos are for a manual hub swap but the work is very similar if you were just replacing bearings. Maybe the wheel bearings on the 3rd Gen 4runners are similar to your 06 Tundra. Here's' some links to those videos. ua-cam.com/video/TZ2sOfVrnhU/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/1TpOYj0sUpA/v-deo.html
hey Timmy any chance I could bring in just my Axles and have you do the press work ... I'm from San Leandro... I was going to buy all new parts but I see I don't need to do that saves a lot of money but my bearings are worn and seals are leaking.
Hey Lance, right now I've got a pretty full schedule leading up to some vacation time. I'd be willing to help you out but I couldn't do it until July sometime. If you could wait that long, you could contact me at the beginning of the July and we could figure out a time for you to drop off the axles to me. Do you have an ABS or Non-ABS rearend?
Hey Mario, I've recently performed a wheel bearing and seal replacement on a set of Tacoma knuckles with manual hubs that my friend then put on this 3rd Gen 4runner. The knuckles did not have ABS. The knuckles for the ADD system are very similar though and you could use the video we made of the Manual Hub Conversion as a reference to get the job done. The ADD system obviously doesn't have manual hubs but rather a big axle nut and dust cover that goes over it. If you have ABS, there will be an ABS tone ring in addition to the spacer and that's pretty much it with the differences. You would still press out the hub, press out the bearings, remove the seals and press in the seals all the same way as we show in the video. I'm just not 100% sure how the ABS gear is removed and reinstalled but I'm sure it's something you can find a write-up on or figure it out yourself. I used this write-up as a reference and he said you just tap the ABS ring and spacer into place. Here's a link to the write-up: www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/228427-3rd-gen-front-wheel-bearing-write-up.html Here's the Manual Hub Conversion video: ua-cam.com/video/TZ2sOfVrnhU/v-deo.html With all the information I provided you, you should be able to knock this out provided you have the necessary tools.
Some people have used the brute force method by slamming the end of the axle shaft into a piece of wood on the ground to get the axle out of the bearing. They grab ahold of the brake backing plate and start pounding away. When getting the parts back on, they use a piece of pipe that slips over the axle shaft and meets up with the inner race of the bearing and they slide hammer it in place. But, this might damage the bearing. You're best bet is to pull the axles yourself and take them to a shop that can do the presswork for you. Just make sure you give them precise instructions on how you want it done. Lots of shops screw this up.
Thank you for your kind reply. I pulled the drum off today and there was no grease in the drum or on the pads. However, there was a very small amount on the brake shoe springs. Laying on the ground looking at the inside of my wheel it is caked with oil, telling me my axle seal is leaking. I noticed it when I drained my diff fluid to change it because it had 50K on it and I used AMSOIL 100% synthetic for the last 50K. What do you think my odds are of simply pulling the axle and replacing the axle seal only and not have to worry about pressing the bearings out.
If you have ABS, you'll have the electrical lines that lead to the ABS sensors at the end of the axle housing. If you don't have that, you don't have ABS.
Hey Tim. Studying your video here. @ 57:08 - You left that blue grease one the shaft permanently? I thought you were only doing that as a "grease test". Thanks.
when you were going over the parts you bought there was a bag of what looked to be home made chocolate chip cookies at 4:38 in the video buy the way thanks for the video after watching yours I went out and replaced seals and bearings
Raevenswood The proof happens when you perform the grease test. The whole idea is just getting the seal lip riding somewhere near the center of the 10mm polished shoulder of the retainer. If you do that, you should be leak free for a long long time. You can always pull the ABS sensor to check if you're leaking but you shouldn't be if you verified the seal lip is riding in a good spot on the retainer. Over time, the bearing could develop a lot of play and put stress on the seal causing a leak or a clogged differential breather could cause the seal leak. Other than time and clogged breather, the repair should hold up for 100,000 plus miles. But, I can say it's been at least 50k since my rear axle seals were done with the retainer flip method and I am leak free.
Cool! glad to hear it holds up. Man I just made a deal on a 97 limited with locker ... I drove up to Santa Rosa to look at it and it had blown axle seals both valve cover leaks as well as oil cooler seals leaking off the block and I'm pretty sure the crank seal as well ... I got the person down to 2300$ for it with 200k miles .... everything was clean under the truck no rust etc then when we are about to start the paperwork I saw the frame rail next to the battery had some corrosion. I remember watching your videos and thinking his didn't look like that (lol)... turns out a bad battery had been leaking into the frame rail for some time and it ate through the whole top part of the frame rail where the cross member comes in to the frame rail ... bummer because the engine was strong and ran great except for the oil leaks, basically it was 1000$ in parts away from being a strong truck but there was no way I could use it with the frame compromised in that area ... the second I started winching it would have busted the frame for sure. Actually it was so bad and flaky I imagine just installing on off-road bumper would have busted the frame from the weight alone. So yeah the quest for a locked 4runner continues. Actually I've looked at more than 15 in the Bay Area all of them were claiming "no issues" "clean" super clean". I show up they are leaking like a sieve or suddenly it's a new used engine when they never mentioned that or the accident it was in bla bla bla. Issues like that aren't such a big deal but they are when the person wants 7500$ for the truck... pretty much decided to just get a diamond in the rough and build it myself so at least I know what was done and when. Your videos really taught me what to look for and have saved my ass in reference to buying some pile of junk but also have given me confidence that I can get a truck with a few issues and fix them myself. Thanks dude!
If you're patient, you'll find a good one. It took me over a year of searching to find the 98 I just bought at the end of the year. It's a limited with 130k and a rear locker. But, it has it's issues too. Looking through the paperwork I saw they paid for a passenger side axle seal replacement. No mention of replacing the bearings or anything else. I knew as soon as I read that I'd be doing a rear axle seal job on it. I pulled the ABS sensor and sure as shit is was leaking. Luckily I now know how to do this job and have all the special tools. When I had an axle seal leak on my 2000, I didn't have the knowledge or tools and got bent over at Toyota for $1500 to do the rear axle seals and rear brakes. The lady who sold me the rig said it had a recorded accident where the front bumper got creased a little but there was also some damage to the driver side mirror and fender flares from some other mishap. It's nothing bad so it doesn't bother me. I plan on putting plenty of scratches on this one doing some wheeling. The lady also carted around a big dog for years and the inside smelled like musty dog. After some cleaning and air freshener, I think I finally have the inside smelling ok. It of course has leaking valve covers and maybe other leaks but I'm hoping most of the oil I see underneath is just from valve covers. The skid pans were filthy and the people who worked on it broke one of the bolts off and stripped out a couple more. I plan on putting on aftermarket skids so I'll see what bolt holes I actually need to get the new skids firmly attached. I've done quite a bit of work on it so far with a lot more to come. Prices for 3rd Gen 4runners in our area are really nutty right now. People want stupid money for them. If you look everyday and you're patient, you'll find a good one.
I'm looking so frequently I'm catching ads that were posted 40 minutes ago lol. Of course I don't want to seem desperate so I hang back a bit before contacting. Anyway yeah I'm looking to wheel this so a few paint chips or clear coat peeling doesn't totally bother me either. What bothers me is liars that say they fixed everything and they almost sold it to someone else but an injector leaked so they pulled the sale because "it wasn't right" and they they will have it fixed by noon tomorrow. I showed up, the body was super super clean (98 limited) but then I look under and the entire steering rack and skid were soaked in oil all behind the valve cover was leaking too so it was either the half moons or the cam seals still leaking (or never properly cleaned up). Guy tried to tell me it was left over from the repairs but why in the hell would you go through the trouble of fixing all that and then not clean all the oil off the truck unless you were trying to mask a bigger issue? My guess is the rear main was leaking too and he didn't want to go that deep into repairs, also the 10 years of records he said he had seemed to not be available. It's been annoying but I'll eventually find one. Thanks
Raevenswood If you see a good deal, DO NOT WAIT to contact them. The good deals get scooped up in less than an hour. You have to jump on those and get there first. If it's a good deal, their phone will be ringing like crazy. Hopefully you find one that only has an email for contacting. I lost out on a really good deal a while back. I caught the ad when it was only up for 15 minutes and I got there first. While I was test driving it, some asshole called and told the guy he would give him $1000 more for it. So, I walked away. I'm not going to pay someone $1000 more than he was asking.
I've done this job over a dozen times and can knock it out in around 4 hours which includes doing the rear brakes. But, I know exactly what I'm doing with zero guesswork. 5 hours seems fair. Shops go by a book or program to tell them how many hours to bill for a job but that doesn't mean it will actually take the mechanic that long to do it. Many shops work on a Flat Rate system. If the mechanic finishes the job in less time, they make more money.
Damm i watched this one video and I'm hooked, great video man. Wonder if this is the same for '92 pickup. Either way I'm gettin er done. Hey the 3rd gen 4runner, does that basically have the same runnin gear as the 1st gen tacoma (my '98 limited trd)? Awesome video, keep it up AND subscribed. Thanks man.
Yes, the 3rd Gen 4runner and 1st Gen Tacoma have the same running gear. This video will work perfectly for the 1st Gen Tacoma rear axles with a Non-ABS rearend.. If your Tacoma has an ABS rearend, refer to our ABS version of this repair. Don't know about the 92 pickup but I'm guessing the process will be very similar. Thanks for subscribing. We've got more good stuff coming so stay tuned. Happy Wrenching!
I think there's a very good chance it will be similar. But, the only way to find out is to pull one of the axles and take a look. You commented on the Non-ABS video and I'm sure your's has ABS. Check out the ABS Axle Seal video we did. ua-cam.com/video/AVhSDnw2ugo/v-deo.html
Good Macgyering with the 2x4 drive in the seal and using a pry bar to pull the seal but I'll stick with my slide hammer puller to remove the seal and my seal driver to seat the seal. But, good job getting it done.
WARNING! If you have an e-locker, you have an ABS rear end even if your vehicle doesn't have ABS. I just pulled the axle on my '99 Tacoma without ABS and was surprised to see the extra parts inside from an ABS. Now to see if the parts I already bought will work or not . . .
Yeah, kind of weird Toyota put ABS tone rings and inner retainers on for rigs without ABS. The parts you bought will work. You just don't have to bother with the ABS tone ring and inner retainer because they are not needed.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the quick reply, so should I follow your ABS video instead of this one? when you say don't bother with the ABS ring and inner retainer, do you mean I should shouldn't touch the ones on my axle, or remove them and leave them off? I was just about to buy another set of retainers and was wondering if I need to buy the ABS Trigger wheel too, but it sounds like I don't?
@@eyeofthedriver Remove the ABS tone rings and inner retainers when doing the job and don't put them back on because they are not needed, unless for some reason your axle housing is formed like an ABS housing where the axle seal sits more inboard unlike the non-ABS axle we feature in this video. I've never done a rear axle seal job on a vehicle set up like so I'm making some assumptions. You will want to watch our ABS videos because they will show you the necessary press work to pull off the ABS tone rings and inner retainers. We recommend a different special axle tool than the one we showcase in Part 1. The one we show in Part 2 is way superior and it doesn't require a bearing splitter. The new tool set from our buddy Duane has everything you need to be successful. ABS Part 1: ua-cam.com/video/AVhSDnw2ugo/v-deo.html ABS Part 2: ua-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/v-deo.html Good luck with the job. If you have any questions, just ask. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you! my axle housing does sit in further like in your ABS video, just with a delete plate where the ABS sensor should go. Think I should replace them or reuse them?
@@eyeofthedriver You can reuse the retainer that's a place holder for the bearing but you want to use a new inner retainer that will mate with the new axle seal. You can also reuse the ABS tone rings or just leave them off because they're not really doing anything.
I know those springs on the brake are held in pretty tight, but I still cringed when you set the drum brake on your lap when showing the parts and pieces of the axle...... Stay safe, and good job on your presentations!
JLin576 Yeah, those springs won't become detached on their own. They're on there pretty damn tight. Thanks for worrying about me though. Glad you like our videos.
wedge3577 You have a 2nd Gen 4runner and I don't know if the axles on the 2nd Gens are the same on the 3rd Gens but I'd imagine they are very similar. Maybe pose a question on toyota-4runner.org in the 2nd Gen section of the forum and ask if the axles on the 2nd Gens are the same as the 3rd Gens.
WOW very cool DIY homemade press. go to youtube and type in " DIY 5 ton hydraulic press" do you think this press would press out/in the rear axle bearings on toyota's
Greg Brooks No clue Greg. All I know is a Harbor Freight 12 and 20 ton press will do the job. A 20 ton Harbor Freight press is super affordable. With their frequent sales and 20% coupons, you can pick one up for around $150.
Oh darn. I'm sorry my repetition ruined the free and extremely informative video you're watching. His a news flash for you Dude. The world owes you nothing. Your comment is a very entitled one. You act like I owed you this video. I didn't need to make it for people to benefit from. I could have easily carried on with my life never making one freaking video. So Dude, don't watch it if you find it that annoying. Nobody is forcing you to watch it. Find another video you like more. Your next whining comment on our channel will be your last. I can simply click a button and I will never see another comment from you again. I don't have time for entitled people like yourself that obviously lack patience.
Hi Timmy, I decided to replace the axle seal on the other side this weekend and I am a little concerned and worried. The side I did last weekend I hammered the seal in just a tiny tiny bit further then being flush with the cavity of where it goes. When I was doing the other side today I looked at where the old seal was before I removed it and it was about 1/4" inside the cavity. So what I did was only hammer the new seal in about 1/8" instead of the 1/4". The grease test at least or me is not very clear to see on the retainer so I thought by moving the seal out more by 1/8" it would not be on that witness mark. What I am worried about is one side the seal is just about flush with the cavity and the other side is about 1/8" inside the cavity. Do you think I am over thinking this.573-445-4252
There's a chance your bearing wasn't sitting all the way in the bearing case when you did your grease test and it's throwing off your result. Trying popping the axle shaft against a block of wood resting on the ground. This will seat the bearing fully into the case it sits in. You don't need a lot of force. Just grab the break backing plate in your hands and lightly pop the end of the axle shaft (the side that slides into the differential) against a block of wood. Once you've done that, redo the grease test and see if you get different results. The bearing doesn't fit very tightly into that case and it can move out from it's fully seated position. Other than the grease test, you would never notice if the bearing wasn't fully seated, because as you tighten the axle nuts, the bearing fully seat on it's own.
*VERY IMPORTANT. PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE STARTING THIS REPAIR*
1) The original axle tool we used made made by Durasolid is no longer the best tool for the job in our opinion. The tool we now recommend is made by this guy Duane that sells them on Ebay. It is a very well-designed tool that saves you time and money. Here's a link to Duane's Ebay store: www.ebay.com/usr/donald-the-bonald?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 Here's a link to a video showing us using the new tool: ua-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/v-deo.html Also, here's a direct link to Axle Puller/Installer for sale on Duane's Ebay store we used in that video: www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Axle-Bearing-Tone-Ring-Puller-Bearing-Install-Tools-Toyota-4Runner-84-02/203187764458?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338641100&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1
2) There are many Ebay stores selling a Chinese Copy of Duane's tool. Please do not reward these dishonest people by buying the tool from them. Duane makes his tools at his home in Omaha Nebraska. He has changed the color of his tool to BLUE to differentiate it from all the Chinese Copies being sold on Ebay. Please support Duane and Buy American!
Update 12/07/21 - the Chinese copiers are now undercutting Duane's prices so drastically that he would take a loss if he sold the tool for the price they are offering it for. The only way Duane can give you a more competitive price is if you email him directly and take the Ebay middle man out of it.
Duane's email address is: *dtb2253x@**yahoo.com*
3) Some people have reported that even after doing everything right, they still had gear oil getting past the seal. One culprit ended up being the metal to metal connection of the axle seal with the axle housing. For some people, a previous mechanic or DIYer might have not been very careful and scored the axle housing with a seal puller or other tool. Others might have had no detectable imperfection in the axle housing but they still had gear oil sneak past that metal to metal connection of the axle seal and axle housing. A fix that will work for this situation is cleaning up the surface of the axle housing with acetone or denatured alcohol and doing the same with the outer surface of a new axle seal. Smear some Toyota Red FIPG which is meant to work with gear oil applications or a similar gasket sealer meant to work with gear oil onto the axle housing sealing surface and also some on the seal itself and then drive it in. The FIPG will fill any tiny imperfections in the metal and hopefully stop gear oil from being able to get past this connection.
4) When using the flipped inner retainer technique, it appeared 5mm of polished axle showing was about perfect to get the seal lip riding dead center on the shoulder of the retainer. After pulling some axles from rigs we did this job on a couple years ago, it looks like 4mm of polished axle showing would be a better initial measurement to use. With that said, you still need to verify you have a good mating of the seal and inner retainer by performing a grease of sharpie test. After that initial grease or sharpie test, you'll now if you got it perfect or you'll need to do some adjustment. Does the seal absolutely need to ride dead center on the retainer? The answer is no. Somewhere close is fine. The reason why you want it close to center is to allow for axle play as the bearing ages. If you're close to the one of the edges, the axle play could allow the seal to not ride on the retainer and then you'll develop a leak.
5) On the back side of the axle face there's a metal enclosure which is an "Oil Director" (our term, not Toyota's) By design, if the oil seal fails, oil will eventually work it's way through the bearing, flow out through the dust seal into the Oil Director and then get spun out into the wheel through the hole in the axle flange and finally through a hole in the brake drum. As part of this job, it wouldn't be a bad idea to shoot some brake cleaner into the exit hole on the axle flange and also spray it directly into the oil director from the back side to clean it out of any residual gear oil. You wouldn't want your brand new brake shoes potentially getting contaminated with gear oil from the residual left inside the Oil Director.
Your videos are indispensable. Thank you! About to do this my 2000 tundra
You're very welcome and good luck with the job.
You are a life saver. I have a 1991 Toyota pickup sr5 that is leaking. Great video
No problem. Good luck with the job!
I can't remember if I posted a comment around a year or so ago, back when I first watched this video, but either way, here goes: The first time I watched THIS PRICELESS VIDEO, I shared this information about flipping the retainer ( including using grease to create a witness mark for test-fitting ) plus the title of this video with my friend Dennis, who owns & runs a local transmission shop in my area for decades now. I paid him to do this job on both sides of my rear axles. ( Dennis fabricated his own parts to work with his shop press explicitly for these Toyota rear ends a few years back. He also happens to be one of the most trusted & respected transmission specialists in Brevard county Florida. ) After verbally explaining to him, he watched your video that evening, and used the flipping of the retainer technique while doing my rear axles the very next day. HE WAS VERY IMPRESSED & PLEASED WITH YOUR VALUABLE INFORMATION IN THIS VIDEO. ( And I know my inner seals have a bigger contact area on the retainers. ) So even if a man is paying a shop to do work, often times, these excellent videos & information still comes in quite handy for "teaching an old dog a new trick" such as Dennis! He and I are BOTH grateful. THANKS GUYS.........YOU ARE THE BEST!!!
Thanks for commenting and sharing this with us. We appreciate it! You're very welcome,
Just got back from King Of The Hammers and broke a Chromoly Rear shaft. I saw many IFS length shafts broke wish I had my press down there and this video! Going to pull my old one apart off my 86 4runner and waiting for new shafts from Marlin Crawler so I can put my disk break conversion back on the new shaft! Thanks for the great videos! Used your duel case rebuild video this year also!
Yeah, you could have made a killing fixing people rigs out there. You're welcome and good luck with the job.
Just wanted to say thanks! Just finished this job, and your video was insanely helpful. Keep up the great work.
You're welcome Charlie. Good to hear our video helped you out.
Thank you for this fantastic and entertaining video. Maybe this was mentioned already, but #90311-50001 is the discontinued axle seal for early 3rd gen 4Runners and 1st gen Tacomas. Also, Timken or National #1960 is a replica. This brings the retainer and seal mating surface back into spec. Why Toyota discontinued 50001 is beyond me. The aftermarket has not discontinued theirs...
There are two different part numbers recommended depending on whether you have an early or late model 1st gen Tacoma: 1995-1999 (part #1960) vs. 2000-2004 (part #710649) by both National Oil Seal and Timken at O'Reilly's. I went with National for my 1998 2.4L 2WD.
The Timken and National seals are similar to the original OEM seal, but I don't think they are as good as the redesigned seal Toyota made. The new Toyota seal is very pliable allowing for movement in the axle as the bearing wears without damaging the seal. Marlin Crawler also makes a seal that mimics where the original seal lip would ride but I don't know if their seal is as good as the redesigned Toyota seal either. If I were to take a chance on any of those 3 aftermarket seals, I'd give the Marlin Crawler Eco Seal a try. I'm running Marlin Crawler Eco Seals on the front axle of my 85 4runner and they seem to be holding just fine.
Always take the fill plug out first and use 6 point sockets . Learned the hard way I did
Yep, we agree.
Thank you very much for your persistence in showing "us" the test for the new seal not working. I did a full rear end re-fit on my Hilux a few short months ago only to be surprised to see the oil trail on one side, it makes sense now. cheers
Colin James Niehus You're welcome Colin. We wanted to make it very clear that this repair wasn't just a simple case of replacing a seal and calling it good. By making this video and the one for ABS rearends, we're hoping people will now understand this repair better so the repair will be successful whether they're doing the whole job themselves, pulling the axles and letting a shop do the press work or paying a shop to do the whole thing. When it comes to shops doing the work for you, it definitely doesn't hurt for you to share your knowledge of the repair with them because shop mechanics and machine shop techs screw up this repair all the time.
Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks to you both, all going well I will be content with the effort I`v put into and not totally pissed off lol cheers boys anymore info on your Toyota work I`m all ears this one is 15 this year and 428,000 k`s by me my 3rd Hilux ;)
Finished my bearing replacement on my 98 4runner . Thanks for the great instructions.
You're very welcome. Glad our video helped you out.
As always thank you for your help and the time you take to make this video.
You're very welcome!
Thank you! Timmy The Toolman. Perfect teaching, great show. I trust you about the difference seals
You're welcome.
It's crazy how much these tools cost ($300+, $130+???) to use to replace these bearings.. and even crazier is how much research I did and reading and reading and different methods I tried and fabricated that failed to dissasemble my axle.. and you know what really blows my mind? I ended up simply using two 4 inch 3/8 bolts and nuts to finally do the job!!! Just smack out 2 studs on opposite sides, slide a 4in 3/8 bolt in from the axle side and thread a nut on the under side and slowly/carefully tighten the bolts!! Haha! They will press it all apart! I still can't believe I never saw or read online about a single person doing it this way but it was so simple..
Well, you got it done and that's what is important. When you factor in what shops want to charge for doing the presswork, the tool pays for itself. You can then decide to keep it or sell it. If you sell it, you'll recoup a decent percentage of your money. The tool we like is featured in our ABS Part 2 video. It's especially functional for ABS rigs.
Thank you Tim for this VERY detailed video. I just bought my first 3rd gen a few days ago and going through it today underneath, I seen the tell tale sign of a shot seal(grease pudding on the backing plate). I was hoping that you had this video and thankfully you did. So again, Thank You!
You're welcome. Let me know how the job goes for you.
Timmy The Toolman Just made a order on , Toyotapartsdeals. Everything is on its way.
Bushwookie NW I hope you read the video description. You can save around $150 on the parts by reusing all 4 retainers and both ABS gears.
Those ABS gears were spendy. Hahaha I altered the order before it got out of the door. Thank you for the heads up. I want to get one of those pullers you have. If you have said the company that makes it, I have missed it.
Check the video description. I have links to the tools I used there.
Going forward, if you're going to use a video of ours, always check the video description and pinned comments for helpful information. I can't speak for other automotive UA-camrs, but with our channel, we usually put a fair amount of useful information in the video description. With the pinned comments, it's usually an update since the repair to share helpful and important things we didn't know at the time we filmed the job.
great vid. your camera person is killing me though!
Early stages of our journey filming for UA-cam. Glad you liked the video and def check out our newer videos so see our audio and video improvements.
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman all good. I should just shut up and be thankful for the content. lol Thanks again Sean!
@@bobbyd7363 Hey Bobby, we have zero issues with someone like yourself. Constructive criticism given in a tactful way is received well. We know our earlier camera work wasn't the greatest so we're not offended when people mention it in a tactful way. If you would have just said, "Hey, you guys suck!" You would have gotten a much different response. You started off by saying "Great Video", and that is appreciated because you're acknowledging what we have shared with the DIY Auto Mechanic Community. So, Happy Wrenching Bobby! Comment any time. - Timmy
Nice job, Thanks for taking the time to post!
Thanks and you're welcome. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Hi again TTTM, Does it matter what way the bearing is facing ? New ones arriving tomorrow.
Thanks again for all your help.
It matters for some years. The 1996-2000 has a bearing that can go in either way. The 2001-2002 bearings have a flange appendage that need to face the axle flange. It will be pretty obvious.
@@TimmyTheToolman That inner seal is way outside of my mine.
@@sapshootervt I don't understand what you mean by your last statement.
Nice, easy understandable presentation, very nice.
Don Bryson We're glad you like the video Don. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Hey Timmy, I don't know if you'll see this comment on this old video. But I've got some seriously rusted out back plates on my 1991 rear drums and I want to replace them. Some sources online say I'll have to pull the whole thing apart and replace the bearing and seals and others say I can just peel the things apart and bolt it to the new black plate
The only way you can get an old plate off and new plate on is by cutting it. You'd have to cut the new backing plate in half to get it on because the axle goes through it. So, unless you want to cut it in half, you'll have to do the presswork to separate the backing plate from the axle.
@@TimmyTheToolman Wow thanks for the reply! I saw that tip in a vid but I wasn't sure If I should take it serious or not. Maybe I'll consider that.
Are the ABS and Non ABS rear end housings the same?
No they are not, the rear axle housing on an ABS version has a hole for the ABS sensor, the non-ABS version does not have a hole in the axle housing
-Sean
Thanks a million for responding
No problem and good luck with the job. If you have any more questions, just ask.
Will do, thanks again
I'm needing new bearings on my 2000 Tacoma and just put in a order on Toyota parts site for new parts. Got an email back saying that they have 2 other orders on hold for these bearings with NO ETA from Toyota as to when it will be fulfilled. So, I guess aftermarket it is.
Yeah, we heard this recently from another person. I have no idea what's going through Toyota's mind with discontinuing these bearings. Tons of Toyotas still use those bearings.
Make a video with toyota Land Cruiser Prado 2011 rear horn change. It would be interesting to see which extractor they use.
Maybe one day we'll make that video.
I enjoyed the video! Keep it up!
Glad you like it. Happy Wrenching!
Timmy, Question I have minor leaking rear end. Me and mechanic friend replaced only the seal about 4 months ago. Bearing looked great with no play? Well, took off to paint my drums and its leaking again! Humm we’ll didn’t know if I should replace seal again or do the bearing or what. Checked diff. Breather and cleaned and can blow air through.Wondered if new seal is like you we’re saying in video about riding wrong on retainer ring.Maybe I should do the grease test to see where new seal is riding on retainer ring. I would have to take axle to shop to have bearing pressed on don’t have tools.I just don’t know if bearing can be bad with no play.Could you advise? Thanks a lot I’m glad I ran into this video. You seem very knowledgeable about these rear ends and frankly I don’t trust all mechanics.
The grease test is good riding on a NEW retainer. The worn retainer could let fluid sneak by OR mostly likely it is NOT riding on the seal correctly. If the bearing gets gear oil in it, the grease is likely washed out and exacerbates the play leading to more leaking.
@@TimmyTheToolman So would you just go ahead and replace bearing or run it awhile till it gets worse?
Tim, I have my axle on my work bench now and looking at the witness mark and it is right in the middle of the retainer. Now when I slide the old seal on to the retainer and the seal is about 1/4" thick is the witness mark, if it was in the same spot before I removed it going to line up with the outer side of the seal, or the inner side, or right in the middle of the old seal. In other words the outer side of the seal being the side you put the seal driver on to hammer it in and the inner being the opposite side. I am just trying to figure out where on the retainer the left side is and on the right side of the vehicle. I hammered one side just a tiny bit more then flush with the cavity and the one I did today I hammered it in about 1/8" which is more then the other side.
Yes I see did it stop the leak
@@richarddiaz8248 Yes, the repair was a success. Watch Part 2 and also read the comment I pinned (1st comment you see) for further information on this repair. ua-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/v-deo.htmlsi=r5ZF88a1h3hJCqfb
Tim, Talked to you Sunday about that rear axle seal. Just wanted to say thanks again. I am replacing my rear pinion seal where the drive shaft connects to the diff and I cannot find the torque spec anywhere. Cannot find it on the Toyota forums and thought you might know how to find it online. I called and talked to a Toyota mechanic and he gave me 110 ft. lbs or 9 inch lbs. I did the conversion and I think he got this backwards. he said it should be about like a lug nut which would be more like the 110 ft. lbs, but there is a bearing right behind that nut so 110 ft. lbs I believe would be way too much. it is on a 1991 Toyota Previa 2wd. I could really mess things up if it is suppose to be 9 inch lbs instead of 110 ft. lbs. So thought you might know how to look this up online very difficult if not impossible to talk to someone at Toyota dealer nobody wants to help.
If I were you, I'd buy a subscription to Toyota Tech Info. You could buy a 2-day subscription for $15 and look up everything you want. Here's a link:
techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_page&contextType=external&username=string&challenge_url=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%2FtechInfoPortal%2Flogin%2Ftechinfo&password=secure_string&request_id=4023127930795058357&authn_try_count=0&locale=en_US&resource_url=https%253A%252F%252Ftechinfo.toyota.com%252F
Mines non ABS, but still has the ABS parts on it... ? Can I take them off ?
Yes, you can get rid of the ABS tone ring and inner retainer because they serve no purpose.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you for the quick reply. I just had a mechanic try to fix it & it leaks more then when I did it here I go again.
Top notch videos .
@@sapshootervt Good luck Brian. Be sure to watch Part 2 and read the video description and the comment we pinned. There's important information in both areas. ua-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/v-deo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman Will do. Thanks man.
@@TimmyTheToolman How do I make up the difference ...? To the C clamp ?
I believe my rear axle seal is leaking on my 08 Tacoma. I recently had my truck towed home when my U-Joint failed. The tow truck driver pointed out oil all over my rear drum and told me my seal is failed. I also have heard some metal clanking sounding like metal gears raking into each other. 😟
I started with this video. Lots of information. I have never touched anything like this job, nor do i know all of the terminology of parts.(seals, retainers, etc.)
Your video had me feeling pretty confident I could tackle this until it came to measurements and grease test.😵💫 Im not sure I understand what the purpose of this is. I think If i could figure this out, I will take the axles to a local shop to have the bearings pressed out and on. Any help will be appreciated.
The measurements and grease test is to make sure you get a good mating of the axle seal with the inner retainer. If you don't achieve that, the repair was a waste of time. I'm assuming you have ABS so watch our ABS version of this video. Watch our Part 2 video for this repair as well. Also read the comments we pinned (1st Comment you see). Once you do all that, I think you'll be prepared for the job.
@@TimmyTheToolman Would this assembly(with ABS) be the same as the gen 2 Tacoma?
@@wesleysriffle I can't say because I've never done axle bearings and seals on a 2nd Gen Tacoma. Duane, who sells the special service tool on Ebay could give you a hint. He sells adapters for basically every model Toyota SUV and Truck in existence. We provide a link to his Ebay store in the video description. Send him a message and ask. It's my guess it's a slightly different but similar.
Hey Tim! I have a 2002 tundra w/out ABS. The rear right side tire is showing wear on the outer edge. I have rotated the tires and the wear continues. I also have a intermittent growling sound from the rear when traveling 30 mph +. Is this the bearing? I have no signs of differential fluid leakage and this has been happening for a few yrs now. I don't put a lot of miles on. Can I take out the axle and inspect the bearing w/out replacing the seals? Thanks for the video! It's great!
A growling sound could be a bad bearing. It could also be the rear differential or something else entirely because noises can be difficult to pinpoint where they originate from. Yes, you could pull the axle out to inspect the bearing without replacing the seal. You just have to be careful pulling the shaft out and putting it back in. You don't want the weight of the shaft on the seal. You want to support the shaft and pull the axle straight out.
The uneven wear on the right rear tire seems a bit strange to me. There's no alignment capability to the rear tires. Maybe there's something up with the rear shocks or leaf springs causing the rear end to track funny causing the uneven wear. Maybe an alignment shop with experienced techs could help you figure it out.
Timmy, I wished I had a video on how to do this for my 1991 Toyota Previa. The only reason I am keeping it is I talked to a Toyota Mechanic about selling it after the kids were grown up and he told me to keep it because the 2.4 in that van is one of the best engines Toyota ever made. Not sure what to do about my rear axle seal leaking. I was thinking if the rear wheel bearings are sealed bearings and a little axle grease got past the seal and into the bearing area maybe they would be ok if I just pulled the axle and replaced the axle seal only. I just don't have those special tools. Would you say that all Toyota rear bearings are the same as far as your demo of pressing them off/on
Any experience with the Marlin Crawler "Heavy Duty Rear Axle EcoSeal"? I'm wondering if the indexing flange puts the seal lip back to the original inboard/outboard location.
Their web site states the oversize indexing flange prevents misaligned installations, and the offset seal location prevents leaks from worn or damaged axle shafts.
No experience with the Marlin Crawler seals for this application. Marlin Crawler does make good stuff so it's worth a try. If you give their seal a try, do the sharpie or grease test and share the results with us.
@@TimmyTheToolman Grease test showed the "Ecoseal" was exactly where it needed to be without having to flip the bearing retainer. Also I purchased the axle tool from Duane and was able to use it to push my axle seals in rather than using the seal driver to "pound and pray" them in. Basically, the tone ring removal tool can be used install the axle seals by putting the bolt heads on the backside of the axle housing, put your seal and bearing driver in place, then put the u-shaped plate on the bolts and install the nuts. Now the nuts can be evenly tightened pushing your bearing driver against the seal and pushing it into place. If the included bolts were 15-20mm longer it would be ideal. I can share pictures of the setup if you would like to see them.
@@skjos96 Sounds like the Ecoseal is an exact replacement for the original seal in relation to where the seal lip sits. I wonder what the longevity of that seal will be. Time will tell. Your technique of installing the seal is unique. I would like to see pics of the setup. Send pics to my email address: mtbtim@sbcglobal.net
Hey Timmy awesome video way better than most of the 4Runner axel seal repair videos out there. When are you going to do a timing belt video???
Glad you like the video. We were suppose to do a timing belt video earlier in the year on Sean's rig but his transmission failed and replacing that became the priority. We'll most likely do the timing belt video this summer.
Awesome I really enjoy watching the videos before I just rip in to doing the repairs on my 4Runner.
Same here. Sometimes I find videos as a reference for what we're doing and just try to improve on the videos that are in existence but quite often the best reference is a write-up I find. And, sometimes there isn't a decent video or write-up on what we want to do and we just go for it using the Factory Service Manual as our only reference.
If you're not in a hurry to do the timing belt service on your rig, we'll have a timing belt video for sure sometime this summer.
Are the parts interchangeable for ABS and Non-Abs? To explain, I have an ABS model that needs a replacement rear end. I am having a hard time finding an ABS version. Can I use the Non-ABS housing with all ABS parts inside (minus the ABS gear thingy of course)? Maybe just omit the ABS gear thing that gets pounded on?
You could do that but you'd lose ABS function because the non-ABS axle will not have the available ports at the ends of the housing to plug in the ABS sensors. So, you'd have an ABS light on your dash all the time unless you pulled the bulb or it finally burns out. You could still keep the ABS tone ring on the axle. It just wouldn't be doing anything anymore.
What's the inside diameter of the pipe on the pulling tool
Hey Tim,
Great video! I have a 2000 Tundra 4x4 no/abs. Just behind inner seal in housing there's a flange with like C notches. Mine is all scraped/scored up. What would have caused that? I pulled axle and there was no snap ring & retainer had slid inboard 1" or so. Pressed retainer back on with new ring. Axles loose again not sure what's up.
Sounds like there was a bearing failure in the past and it broke apart cheese grating the inside axle housing. You're saying the axle has play with all new parts and bolted to the axle housing?
@@TimmyTheToolman No I just pressed retainer back in place & put new snap ring on. I want to do all new but just concerned about condition of inside of housing. Does retainer or snap ring come in contact with damaged area inside housing? Don't want to do all new and have it be messed up.
@@richardstrickland3650 I guess it depends how bad the damage is and if there's any metal hanging. As long as you can spin the axle and the retainer doesn't hit anything, you're good. If the retainer is hitting metal, you can file or grind it away. But, if there's damage where the seal sits in the housing that could cause an issue because then that could be a pathway for gear oil to get past.
No damage to seal area that I can tell. Just didn't know if anything made contact with that inner flange once I put all new items back in.
hey Richard , could you share the part number on everything you got, I want to make sure I have everything right, thanks in advance
Hey Tim, as always great job on the video and thank you for posting. I was wondering what size seal driver you used to drive in the inner oil seal. thanks!
If you have one of the similar driver kits, just choose the one that's closest to the outer diameter of the seal. The one I used is just barely wider than the seal. One size smaller is too small and you would have a good chance of creasing the seal. You want to have contact over the full face of the seal because the outermost shoulder of the seal is the strongest point. I hope this helps.
awesome video gonna tackle this job next weekend. I have a 2000 TRD Tacoma ill be working on a non ABS axle, however i do have a factory e locker... anyone know if the e locker needs to be removed in order to slide out the axle shaft?
You don't need to remove the e-locker to remove the axle shaft. Glad you like the video and good luck with the job.
@@TimmyTheToolman you the man!
Super cool video
Thanks.
Hi Timmy, did the 4th gen 4runner (2X4) get the oil seal update? Can I just keep the bearing retainer faced the original way?
I have not performed this job on a 4th Gen so I can't advise you on this. I don't know if Toyota redesigned the seals for the 4th Gens as well. The key though is to confirm you have a good mating of the retainer with the seal by doing a sharpie or grease test. I recommend the sharpie test since it's easier to see exactly where the seal is riding on the retainer. If you're not familiar with the sharpie test, put some perpendicular black sharpie marks around the circumference of the retainer. Insert the axle and make sure it's fully seated into the axle housing by snugging up a couple of the axle nuts. Now spin the axle many turns and pull it out. Where the seal wore away the sharpie marks lets you know where the seal is riding on the retainer. If it's close to center on the retainer, you're good to go. If it's pretty close to either end of the retainer, I recommend making the proper adjustments to the retainer position on the axle and then perform the sharpie test again to confirm you got a good mating.
Timmy, Love your video's. I have a 94 Toyota 4x4 V6 P/U referred to as a 4 Runner version. Getting ready to do rear axel seals got one leaking. Wanted to know now that its been several yrs how the reversing the retainer ring has help up.
It's holding up fine Gary. All the flipping of the retainer does is allow the seal to get up onto the polished shoulder of the retainer sooner than if it had to push past the 2mm non-polished bevel first. With the Toyota seal redesign and keeping the retainer in the original orientation (bevel facing the seal), you will have to get the retainer very close to rubbing the inside of the axle housing. With the flipped retainer, you get a good mating with the seal and you're nowhere near to scraping the retainer on the inside of the axle housing. Now, what I said has to do with 3rd Gen 4runners. I don't know if for your application Toyota redesigned the seal too and there needs to be a readjustment of the retainer to get a good mating with the seal. When you pull the seal, you should compare the old seal with the new seal and see if there is a difference. If there's no difference, you won't have to do what we did. Make sense? At the end of the day, the important thing is you make sure you have a good mating of the retainer and seal by doing a grease or sharpie test to see where the seal is riding on the retainer. If you confirm a good mating, you did the job right and you can bolt it back up with confidence that the repair will last a very long time. I hope this helps.
Thank you so much for getting back to me . FYI: My truck is a perfect example of what you have touched on in this video. I did this repair 11 months ago and now its leaking. I did notice that the old seal was different when I did that repair. The seal & retainer are the same part # as in your video. I did the grease test this time before I pulled the new/old seal and saw that there was only a tiny bit of seal on the polished portion of the retainer. NO Doubt this is why it only lasted 11 mo. This time going to do the repair as outlined in your video. Again thanks for the great Videos. Stay safe Gary in Tennessee. @@TimmyTheToolman
@@garyduncan1884 You're welcome Gary. You are now probably more knowledgeable than most mechanics regarding this job. It's simply understanding that Toyota redesigned the seal, the fact you need to verify that you have a good mating of the retainer and seal, and that flipping the retainer orientation can help you achieve that good mating of the retainer and seal. It's not rocket science but private shops and dealerships screw up this job all the time.
You should have seen the look l got when I told the TOYOTA mechanic at the shop who was doing the seal & retainer work only on the axle. It was Priceless. @@TimmyTheToolman
@@garyduncan1884 Yep, guys who learn things on forums and UA-cam videos can quite often school professional mechanics. Professional mechanics aren't Gods. They don't know all and they can learn from DIY guys like ourselves.
Is it necessary to do both sides? I was thinking I only needed to replace on the side that's leaking.
It's not necessary but the thinking is if one side has gone bad, the other side isn't far behind. That's why most guys just do both sides and get it over with.
So at 19 minutes you are saying to flip the retainer so the bevel side faces the brakes and not the differential housing right, like the manual says to do so the seal can immediately ride on the polished area. Just to make sure I don't screw this up is the bevel on the retainer only to ease it into the hole.
Greg Brooks Yes, the bevel is meant to make it easier for the retainer to slip into the seal. But, with this new seal design, the seal is very pliable and there's no problem with the retainer sliding in via the non-beveled side. You can try it out yourself by pushing the retainer into seal and you'll see how pliable the new seal design is. This new design allows for more axle play without causing damage to the seal. So, this new seal design will allow for axle bearing wear without destroying the seal.
I have an 03 tacoma and the axle broke where the c clip groove is . Can I use a non abs axle ? I don't care about the abs working because its way easier to find a non abs axle .
I'm not sure if you can. ABS axles were more common than non-ABS. It doesn't make sense why you can't find one. A 3rd Gen ABS axle will work as well.
If I am replacing the axle seal only what do I ask for the Inner wheel seal or outer wheel seal. Also I guess the O-RING will come with the seal kit right. Trying to find part numbers to order online.
Hey Greg, we cover all the part numbers near the beginning of the video.
Big effort with the Vid....
Thanks Chris. It's a labor of love. A lot of time goes into researching the repair or mod and then performing it but I think the video editing is the most labor intensive part of it. Video editing is pretty tedious but necessary for a nice finished product. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
So, out of all these parts, what fits 02 Tundra ? I've looked up a few & Amazon say's they don't fit 02 Tundra. No ABS... ?
Thank you. (Looks like I'm searching)...
Hey Brian, to play it safe, look up the bearings on an online Toyota parts seller website to make sure you get the right ones for your axles.
@@TimmyTheToolman Mines non ABS, but still has the ABS parts on it... ? Can I take them off ?
I did this once already & they're leaking again Errrrr.
Should I do the grease test or should i just flip the retainer ring onto the flat side?
I'm not sure I understand your question. Yes, you should perform a grease or sharpie test to confirm you have a good mating of the seal with the retainer.
No matter which orientation you place the retainer ring, you should always do the grease test to confirm it’s rising in the middle of the retainer and if it’s not, then you need to press on the retainer further, or pull the retainer off a little bit to get it riding in the middle
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman ok thank you 👍
@@kden4740 No problem.
Hi Timmy, I just did one side of my axle seals however my bearings were still good so I could not flip the retainer over. I made the mistake of taking my old seal out before I could do the grease test. What I did was hammered in the old seal back in until it was flush with the axle tube to see if the grease test would go where the witness mark was and it was dead on so I hammered the new seal into the tube in about the same spot. So since I could not flip the retainer over where the beveled side goes towards the bearing, should I have hammered the seal in farther so the grease test would go past the witness mark and a little closer towards the bearing. The cavity where you put the seal in was about 3/4" deep on the axle tube so I could have hammered it in further. I was just use to all front wheel bearing seals usually just hammer in flush until they stop. Should I remove the axle again and tap the seal in about another 1/32" to 1/16" to push it past the witness mark. It was a lot of work and the witness mark was no groove at all you could not even feel it on the retainer so not sure what to do.
You're probably ok with it riding on the old witness mark. In a perfect world, you'd have it riding on a different spot on the retainer but people get away with this when replacing camshaft seals and crankshaft seals because the seal lip ends up riding on the same spot as before unless they purposely didn't drive it in as far as it could. It's only when they discover they're still leaking that they go back in and change the position of the seal so it's riding on a fresh part of the shaft. We replaced the cam and crankshaft seals on Sean's rig and he doesn't have a leak.
So, if your grease test is showing you're on the old witness mark with the new seal, you must have driven in the seal 2mm shy of it bottoming out. As long as your grease test shows you're riding in a good spot on the retainer, i'd leave it alone.
Now, you say your bearings are good but what are you basing this on? if there's excessive play in the bearings, that transmits to the axle shafts and then puts extra stress on the seals. A bearing with excessive play will still feel smooth. The seals can fail from age but they can also fail due to worn bearings causing too much axle movement or they can fail from a blocked differential breather. If you bearings are truly in good shape, I'm guessing you'll be leak-free for a long time. If your bearings are worn, don't be surprised if you have a seal failure sooner than you'd hope.
Well I knew I should have replaced my bearings just did not have all those expensive tools to remove. but I took the shaft in to a guy who works on pressing bearings and he told me they were still in good shape. I was kind of surprised because they have 221,000 miles on them. Does that sound like a bearing could still be good with that many miles. Also when I do the other side your recommendation is to hammer the seal in further so the grease marks go a tad bit past the witness mark right and closer to the bearing.
Email me your phone number and we'll talk about this tomorrow: mtbtim@sbcglobal.net
Will this tool work on Asian cars and trucks in the Philippines 🇵🇭 let me know thanks
Yes, provided the axles are setup similarly. There's lots of differences between brands and models.
Do you happen to know if the 2000 Tacoma SR5 4x4 has the same axle? I've got a leak on my passenger side.
Yes it does. The 1st Gen Tacomas are very similar to the 3rd Gen 4runners. You commented on the video for Non-ABS Rearends. If your rig has ABS, we have an axle seal video for that type of rearend too. ua-cam.com/video/AVhSDnw2ugo/v-deo.html
It's non-ABS, hopefully it will go as well as that 4Runner. Doing my drive shaft center bearing and transmission mount at the same time. Your videos have been a great reference, thanks very much!
Glad you're finding our videos helpful. Good luck with the job and Happy Wrenching!
Do you have a video on changing the front wheel bearings on a 06 Tundra?
Hey Fred, sorry we don't have a video for that. But, we have a videos for doing the wheel bearings on a 3rd Gen 4runner. The videos are for a manual hub swap but the work is very similar if you were just replacing bearings. Maybe the wheel bearings on the 3rd Gen 4runners are similar to your 06 Tundra. Here's' some links to those videos. ua-cam.com/video/TZ2sOfVrnhU/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/1TpOYj0sUpA/v-deo.html
hey Timmy any chance I could bring in just my Axles and have you do the press work ... I'm from San Leandro... I was going to buy all new parts but I see I don't need to do that saves a lot of money but my bearings are worn and seals are leaking.
Hey Lance, right now I've got a pretty full schedule leading up to some vacation time. I'd be willing to help you out but I couldn't do it until July sometime. If you could wait that long, you could contact me at the beginning of the July and we could figure out a time for you to drop off the axles to me. Do you have an ABS or Non-ABS rearend?
Question, have you ever replaced the front wheel bearings on these types of trucks? Specifically trucks w/ADD. Thanks.
Hey Mario, I've recently performed a wheel bearing and seal replacement on a set of Tacoma knuckles with manual hubs that my friend then put on this 3rd Gen 4runner. The knuckles did not have ABS.
The knuckles for the ADD system are very similar though and you could use the video we made of the Manual Hub Conversion as a reference to get the job done. The ADD system obviously doesn't have manual hubs but rather a big axle nut and dust cover that goes over it. If you have ABS, there will be an ABS tone ring in addition to the spacer and that's pretty much it with the differences. You would still press out the hub, press out the bearings, remove the seals and press in the seals all the same way as we show in the video. I'm just not 100% sure how the ABS gear is removed and reinstalled but I'm sure it's something you can find a write-up on or figure it out yourself. I used this write-up as a reference and he said you just tap the ABS ring and spacer into place. Here's a link to the write-up: www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/228427-3rd-gen-front-wheel-bearing-write-up.html
Here's the Manual Hub Conversion video: ua-cam.com/video/TZ2sOfVrnhU/v-deo.html
With all the information I provided you, you should be able to knock this out provided you have the necessary tools.
Thanks hombres
You're welcome Bro!
I have a 1991 Toyota Previa non ABS and wanted to know if this would be the same procedure of fixing the rear axle seal.
Don't know Greg. But, knowing Toyota, I bet the axles are very similar and this video will help you get the job done right.
Don't have the special tool or press. Can this bearing removal and reassembly be done without these tools
Some people have used the brute force method by slamming the end of the axle shaft into a piece of wood on the ground to get the axle out of the bearing. They grab ahold of the brake backing plate and start pounding away. When getting the parts back on, they use a piece of pipe that slips over the axle shaft and meets up with the inner race of the bearing and they slide hammer it in place. But, this might damage the bearing.
You're best bet is to pull the axles yourself and take them to a shop that can do the presswork for you. Just make sure you give them precise instructions on how you want it done. Lots of shops screw this up.
Thank you for your kind reply. I pulled the drum off today and there was no grease in the drum or on the pads. However, there was a very small amount on the brake shoe springs. Laying on the ground looking at the inside of my wheel it is caked with oil, telling me my axle seal is leaking. I noticed it when I drained my diff fluid to change it because it had 50K on it and I used AMSOIL 100% synthetic for the last 50K. What do you think my odds are of simply pulling the axle and replacing the axle seal only and not have to worry about pressing the bearings out.
Any way you can tell if you have ABS or not? Once you listed the symptoms I realized I've had this going on for 2 years lol.
If you have ABS, you'll have the electrical lines that lead to the ABS sensors at the end of the axle housing. If you don't have that, you don't have ABS.
Hey Tim. Studying your video here. @ 57:08 - You left that blue grease one the shaft permanently? I thought you were only doing that as a "grease test". Thanks.
And, does not matter. LOL.....Good catch.
To be honest Mario I can't remember. But, like Chris already commented, it doesn't matter.
I'm interested in the Cookies how much
And what Cookies would those be?
when you were going over the parts you bought there was a bag of what looked to be home made chocolate chip cookies at 4:38 in the video
buy the way thanks for the video after watching yours I went out and replaced seals and bearings
Oh, I gotcha. I think Jordan must have brought those over. You're welcome and glad our video helped you out.
Hey Tim, anything to report back on flipping the orientation of the seal retainer? Has the theory been proven to hold up?
Raevenswood The proof happens when you perform the grease test. The whole idea is just getting the seal lip riding somewhere near the center of the 10mm polished shoulder of the retainer. If you do that, you should be leak free for a long long time. You can always pull the ABS sensor to check if you're leaking but you shouldn't be if you verified the seal lip is riding in a good spot on the retainer. Over time, the bearing could develop a lot of play and put stress on the seal causing a leak or a clogged differential breather could cause the seal leak. Other than time and clogged breather, the repair should hold up for 100,000 plus miles.
But, I can say it's been at least 50k since my rear axle seals were done with the retainer flip method and I am leak free.
Cool! glad to hear it holds up. Man I just made a deal on a 97 limited with locker ... I drove up to Santa Rosa to look at it and it had blown axle seals both valve cover leaks as well as oil cooler seals leaking off the block and I'm pretty sure the crank seal as well ... I got the person down to 2300$ for it with 200k miles .... everything was clean under the truck no rust etc then when we are about to start the paperwork I saw the frame rail next to the battery had some corrosion. I remember watching your videos and thinking his didn't look like that (lol)... turns out a bad battery had been leaking into the frame rail for some time and it ate through the whole top part of the frame rail where the cross member comes in to the frame rail ... bummer because the engine was strong and ran great except for the oil leaks, basically it was 1000$ in parts away from being a strong truck but there was no way I could use it with the frame compromised in that area ... the second I started winching it would have busted the frame for sure. Actually it was so bad and flaky I imagine just installing on off-road bumper would have busted the frame from the weight alone. So yeah the quest for a locked 4runner continues.
Actually I've looked at more than 15 in the Bay Area all of them were claiming "no issues" "clean" super clean". I show up they are leaking like a sieve or suddenly it's a new used engine when they never mentioned that or the accident it was in bla bla bla. Issues like that aren't such a big deal but they are when the person wants 7500$ for the truck... pretty much decided to just get a diamond in the rough and build it myself so at least I know what was done and when. Your videos really taught me what to look for and have saved my ass in reference to buying some pile of junk but also have given me confidence that I can get a truck with a few issues and fix them myself. Thanks dude!
If you're patient, you'll find a good one. It took me over a year of searching to find the 98 I just bought at the end of the year. It's a limited with 130k and a rear locker. But, it has it's issues too. Looking through the paperwork I saw they paid for a passenger side axle seal replacement. No mention of replacing the bearings or anything else. I knew as soon as I read that I'd be doing a rear axle seal job on it. I pulled the ABS sensor and sure as shit is was leaking. Luckily I now know how to do this job and have all the special tools. When I had an axle seal leak on my 2000, I didn't have the knowledge or tools and got bent over at Toyota for $1500 to do the rear axle seals and rear brakes. The lady who sold me the rig said it had a recorded accident where the front bumper got creased a little but there was also some damage to the driver side mirror and fender flares from some other mishap. It's nothing bad so it doesn't bother me. I plan on putting plenty of scratches on this one doing some wheeling. The lady also carted around a big dog for years and the inside smelled like musty dog. After some cleaning and air freshener, I think I finally have the inside smelling ok. It of course has leaking valve covers and maybe other leaks but I'm hoping most of the oil I see underneath is just from valve covers. The skid pans were filthy and the people who worked on it broke one of the bolts off and stripped out a couple more. I plan on putting on aftermarket skids so I'll see what bolt holes I actually need to get the new skids firmly attached. I've done quite a bit of work on it so far with a lot more to come.
Prices for 3rd Gen 4runners in our area are really nutty right now. People want stupid money for them. If you look everyday and you're patient, you'll find a good one.
I'm looking so frequently I'm catching ads that were posted 40 minutes ago lol. Of course I don't want to seem desperate so I hang back a bit before contacting. Anyway yeah I'm looking to wheel this so a few paint chips or clear coat peeling doesn't totally bother me either. What bothers me is liars that say they fixed everything and they almost sold it to someone else but an injector leaked so they pulled the sale because "it wasn't right" and they they will have it fixed by noon tomorrow. I showed up, the body was super super clean (98 limited) but then I look under and the entire steering rack and skid were soaked in oil all behind the valve cover was leaking too so it was either the half moons or the cam seals still leaking (or never properly cleaned up). Guy tried to tell me it was left over from the repairs but why in the hell would you go through the trouble of fixing all that and then not clean all the oil off the truck unless you were trying to mask a bigger issue? My guess is the rear main was leaking too and he didn't want to go that deep into repairs, also the 10 years of records he said he had seemed to not be available. It's been annoying but I'll eventually find one. Thanks
Raevenswood If you see a good deal, DO NOT WAIT to contact them. The good deals get scooped up in less than an hour. You have to jump on those and get there first. If it's a good deal, their phone will be ringing like crazy. Hopefully you find one that only has an email for contacting. I lost out on a really good deal a while back. I caught the ad when it was only up for 15 minutes and I got there first. While I was test driving it, some asshole called and told the guy he would give him $1000 more for it. So, I walked away. I'm not going to pay someone $1000 more than he was asking.
I know this is an old video, BUT! what is the time frame on this? I was charged for 5 hours of labor ...
I've done this job over a dozen times and can knock it out in around 4 hours which includes doing the rear brakes. But, I know exactly what I'm doing with zero guesswork. 5 hours seems fair. Shops go by a book or program to tell them how many hours to bill for a job but that doesn't mean it will actually take the mechanic that long to do it. Many shops work on a Flat Rate system. If the mechanic finishes the job in less time, they make more money.
Damm i watched this one video and I'm hooked, great video man. Wonder if this is the same for '92 pickup. Either way I'm gettin er done. Hey the 3rd gen 4runner, does that basically have the same runnin gear as the 1st gen tacoma (my '98 limited trd)? Awesome video, keep it up AND subscribed. Thanks man.
Yes, the 3rd Gen 4runner and 1st Gen Tacoma have the same running gear. This video will work perfectly for the 1st Gen Tacoma rear axles with a Non-ABS rearend.. If your Tacoma has an ABS rearend, refer to our ABS version of this repair. Don't know about the 92 pickup but I'm guessing the process will be very similar.
Thanks for subscribing. We've got more good stuff coming so stay tuned. Happy Wrenching!
you think it be the same on 03 model?
I think there's a very good chance it will be similar. But, the only way to find out is to pull one of the axles and take a look. You commented on the Non-ABS video and I'm sure your's has ABS. Check out the ABS Axle Seal video we did. ua-cam.com/video/AVhSDnw2ugo/v-deo.html
Hi Tim, do you happen to know the p/n of seal @ 51:19?
We go through the part numbers near the beginning of the video. I guess you missed it. The part number is #90313-48001
A piece of wood 2 x 4 works better to install the seal and a prybar to take it out
Good Macgyering with the 2x4 drive in the seal and using a pry bar to pull the seal but I'll stick with my slide hammer puller to remove the seal and my seal driver to seat the seal. But, good job getting it done.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks hombres here in Mexico we do miracles with just a hammer and a brass chisel would be nice to have fancy tools
@@eddiereyna1155 Yeah, you get it done with the tools you have available. I get it. Good Job!
How can I contact you and how much would u charge me to do this job my axle seal on the passenger side is leaking
I have a 1996 toyota 4runner
Email me: mtbtim@sbcglobal.net
Timmy The Toolman ok
WARNING! If you have an e-locker, you have an ABS rear end even if your vehicle doesn't have ABS. I just pulled the axle on my '99 Tacoma without ABS and was surprised to see the extra parts inside from an ABS. Now to see if the parts I already bought will work or not . . .
Yeah, kind of weird Toyota put ABS tone rings and inner retainers on for rigs without ABS. The parts you bought will work. You just don't have to bother with the ABS tone ring and inner retainer because they are not needed.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the quick reply, so should I follow your ABS video instead of this one? when you say don't bother with the ABS ring and inner retainer, do you mean I should shouldn't touch the ones on my axle, or remove them and leave them off? I was just about to buy another set of retainers and was wondering if I need to buy the ABS Trigger wheel too, but it sounds like I don't?
@@eyeofthedriver Remove the ABS tone rings and inner retainers when doing the job and don't put them back on because they are not needed, unless for some reason your axle housing is formed like an ABS housing where the axle seal sits more inboard unlike the non-ABS axle we feature in this video. I've never done a rear axle seal job on a vehicle set up like so I'm making some assumptions. You will want to watch our ABS videos because they will show you the necessary press work to pull off the ABS tone rings and inner retainers. We recommend a different special axle tool than the one we showcase in Part 1. The one we show in Part 2 is way superior and it doesn't require a bearing splitter. The new tool set from our buddy Duane has everything you need to be successful. ABS Part 1: ua-cam.com/video/AVhSDnw2ugo/v-deo.html ABS Part 2: ua-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/v-deo.html Good luck with the job. If you have any questions, just ask. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you! my axle housing does sit in further like in your ABS video, just with a delete plate where the ABS sensor should go. Think I should replace them or reuse them?
@@eyeofthedriver You can reuse the retainer that's a place holder for the bearing but you want to use a new inner retainer that will mate with the new axle seal. You can also reuse the ABS tone rings or just leave them off because they're not really doing anything.
I know those springs on the brake are held in pretty tight, but I still cringed when you set the drum brake on your lap when showing the parts and pieces of the axle...... Stay safe, and good job on your presentations!
JLin576 Yeah, those springs won't become detached on their own. They're on there pretty damn tight. Thanks for worrying about me though. Glad you like our videos.
How much it cost for you to do it for me
Where do you live?
Sacramento, ca
How much have you been quoted by a shop?
i have a 1994 4x4...same one?
wedge3577 You have a 2nd Gen 4runner and I don't know if the axles on the 2nd Gens are the same on the 3rd Gens but I'd imagine they are very similar. Maybe pose a question on toyota-4runner.org in the 2nd Gen section of the forum and ask if the axles on the 2nd Gens are the same as the 3rd Gens.
WOW very cool DIY homemade press. go to youtube and type in " DIY 5 ton hydraulic press" do you think this press would press out/in the rear axle bearings on toyota's
Greg Brooks No clue Greg. All I know is a Harbor Freight 12 and 20 ton press will do the job. A 20 ton Harbor Freight press is super affordable. With their frequent sales and 20% coupons, you can pick one up for around $150.
How many times can you repeat yourself? Almost unwatchable
Oh darn. I'm sorry my repetition ruined the free and extremely informative video you're watching. His a news flash for you Dude. The world owes you nothing. Your comment is a very entitled one. You act like I owed you this video. I didn't need to make it for people to benefit from. I could have easily carried on with my life never making one freaking video. So Dude, don't watch it if you find it that annoying. Nobody is forcing you to watch it. Find another video you like more. Your next whining comment on our channel will be your last. I can simply click a button and I will never see another comment from you again. I don't have time for entitled people like yourself that obviously lack patience.
Hi Timmy, I decided to replace the axle seal on the other side this weekend and I am a little concerned and worried. The side I did last weekend I hammered the seal in just a tiny tiny bit further then being flush with the cavity of where it goes. When I was doing the other side today I looked at where the old seal was before I removed it and it was about 1/4" inside the cavity. So what I did was only hammer the new seal in about 1/8" instead of the 1/4". The grease test at least or me is not very clear to see on the retainer so I thought by moving the seal out more by 1/8" it would not be on that witness mark. What I am worried about is one side the seal is just about flush with the cavity and the other side is about 1/8" inside the cavity. Do you think I am over thinking this.573-445-4252
There's a chance your bearing wasn't sitting all the way in the bearing case when you did your grease test and it's throwing off your result. Trying popping the axle shaft against a block of wood resting on the ground. This will seat the bearing fully into the case it sits in. You don't need a lot of force. Just grab the break backing plate in your hands and lightly pop the end of the axle shaft (the side that slides into the differential) against a block of wood. Once you've done that, redo the grease test and see if you get different results. The bearing doesn't fit very tightly into that case and it can move out from it's fully seated position. Other than the grease test, you would never notice if the bearing wasn't fully seated, because as you tighten the axle nuts, the bearing fully seat on it's own.
Tim, did you get my other email about where the witness mark is on the seal before removing it.
I don't think I'm fully understanding what the issue is. I'll be at work today. I'll try to give you a call from work sometime this morning.
OK sounds good.
Are all the part no's the same for an '87 2wd truck?
Couldn't tell you. We haven't done this job on a 87 pickup.