I am a finish carpenter and cabinet maker. Your video increased my skills and will follow your plans. Radio alarm saw is a great shop tool.David from Michigan.
Just finished my 1st one today!!! I didn't have all the fancy tools you do but i managed. Great plans they worked!!! never did woodworking like this before was a pleasant challenge. Thanx again.
I'm delighted with how my hive bodies turned out. Thanks so much for your easy to follow tutorial on their construction. I made my splines about 4 inches longer than they needed to be. A happy by product was that I could use the cut off bottom sections as stackable drying racks to hold newly painted hive bodies.
Wonderfull love how you show a couple of ways I thank you very interesting. My first year next year I plan to make my own because like you I have all tools needed so really enjoyed this video and others you make. You help out us newbies to the hobby
16 1/4" is the standard width for hive boxes. One can use 9 frames in this size to get super frames filled and 10 frames for brood chamber boxes. It is advisable to cut "box joint" fingers for all boxes as they are the strongest possible joints and will last for over 25+ yrs and not come apart. If one has a table saw, it is easy to make these cuts. Use a few scrap test cuts for best results
Thank you very much for the videos. I'm wondering why you don't use a tenon joint on the end boards, instead of a spline. Easier and stronger. Cut the tenon with the tenon jig and dado blade, then use the tenon to set the rip fence for the mortise cut. Cut a mortise in a practice piece, then use the slot to adjust your tenon. Shim your dado blade just a tad wider than 1/4", then it will ride out of the tenon cut and give a nice, clean edge.
maybe a cut box with the splines???? Otherwise thanks for walking through. Love to see a Slovenia build. Also, I recently saw a suggestion of using pvc piping to use as a "hanging" system to allow the boxes to dry after painting.
Wow. Great videos. Really clear and don't assume the learner knows details that are possibly obvious to some. Any chance of making a video showing how to make hive boxes with a simple rabbit joint for corners? Thanks for your uploads.
Hi, Could you give the dimensions of your tenon jig and the materials you used? I have seen several on you tube videos but yours looks the simplest. Maybe you could do a video on how to build one. Enjoy your helpful videos. Look forward to more.
Very nice work, what grade of pine do you use for your hive body. I am trying to figure cost against buying unassembled boxes and putting them together. I realize building from scratch is very satisfying but sometimes time and cost has to be factored in. Thanks for the great videos
I have reviewed this video but cannot find the comment you referenced. However, the side boards of a hive body are 14-3/4" for a 10 frame hive body. Once assembled, the ends will be 16-1/4" (again for a 10 frame hive body). Hive bodies for 8-frame and 5-frame are different, as shown in the downloadable plans. Thanks for the question.
I'm wondering we made our brood boxes and super's 6-5/8" all the same should of we made the brood box 9-5/8"? It looks like our queen has used three of the 5 super's stacked for brood.
I use only medium deep boxes (6-5/8"); for supers and brood boxes. The deeps are just too heavy for this old back. In the past few years, I have also been moving to 8 frame boxes, for the same reason. I, too, notice that three of these medium boxes usually suffice for the brood chamber, though occasionally I will see the queen use four. Roughly speaking, three medium boxes equals two deeps. By having all mediums, it makes for more efficient use of the wooden ware in that I don't have to have deeps and mediums in the bee yard operation.
I'm from Nebraska and I watched your videos about 3 years ago started my first swarm back then they did not make it through the winter! Do you use the open bottom on your base that is what I did and put the board slide-in for winter? What do you do to keep your bee's safe during the cold winter months I have two strong hives this year. If you can help?
thank you so much for making this video. i found it very informative and will be using as my guideline to make mine. one small point. since bees produce a lot of moisture of their own, painting the hive on the inside would trap all that moisture (if you seal up the hive for winter) and we all know that moisture is the enemy in winter. but whats more important? preserving the hive body or the bees? also if the general consensus is that painting the inside isn't necessary then why do it? i get protection is important for the hive body but i think letting the wood be natural on the inside so it can absorb the moisture made by the bees is more important for the outcome we're all after which is for the bees to survive winter. but what if you don't seal up the hive for winter and let nature take it's course? wouldn't the bees seal up all the cracks and crevices anyway to keep warm? still don't see the need to paint the inside. maybe over thinking things. is a debatable topic. to paint or not to paint. just logging in my view and why.
Of all the topics I get on this channel, whether or not to paint the inside of the hive is probably the most often discussed. Whether or not to paint the inside of the hive is a personal choice (see comment posted 5 days ago around February 17, 2018). I have talked to a lot of beekeepers who know a lot more about beekeeping than I do. I have yet to hear a convincing argument as to why you should NOT paint the inside of a hive. Most often mentioned is the moisture issue which you bring up. Absolutely, moisture is probably the number one problem in overwintering hives, particularly in the northern (cooler) climates. It is also true that wood will absorb moisture... but only up to a point. When wood becomes saturated, it will no longer absorb moisture. Period. So how long does it take for wood to get to this point. The inside of a hive is close to 100% humidity year round. This moisture comes from respiration of the bees and from evaporating the nectar to make honey. This is a lot of water. My feeling is that wood will reach the saturation point probably in a matter of weeks, if not days. Once that happens, no more absorption by the wood. This is why you must provide other means of getting rid of the moisture, particularly during the winter. The best way to do this is air exchange, which means having fresh air coming in from the bottom of the hive (relatively dry air) and going out of the top of the hive (relatively wet air). In short, air exchange is the solution to winter moisture, not relying on the wood to absorb it (because by that time it won't). Over time, the bees will tend to coat the inside of any nesting cavity with wax and propolis. If you are uncomfortable with the notion of painting the inside of a hive, then coat it with a solid layer of bees wax.... or better yet a tincture of propolis. Propolis would be best and most closely mimic what happens in nature. I know of, and have seen information, on people who dip their wooden ware in melted wax. If this is done, no paint is needed (inside and out) and the wooden ware will probably last your lifetime. If I had the setup and enough wax, I would dip and not paint. I suspect the idea of not painting the inside of a hive comes from the days when paint had lead in it to prevent mold and mildew. Those days are long gone. But once such a notion gets into the beekeeping lore, it is long lived and hard to get rid of. There are a lot of things in life which is "common knowledge" not to do (or to do), but have no real basis in fact. I suggest that painting the inside of a hive is one of these. You are correct that to paint or not paint the inside is a debatable topic. For me, I come down on the side of painting because I know for a fact that a good paint job - on all sides - of the wooden ware will greatly extend the life of the equipment. And I have not heard a good reason to do so that stands up to a bit of critical thinking. You will put a lot of time and money into your wooden ware; and giving it a good paint job will help this investment last for years. The bees will be none the worse for doing so.
yes i suspect you are correct for the reason not to paint in the past. lead was a real nasty and good riddance. when you think about it either way does not hurt the bees at all. they adapt and keep going. so why then do we still debate since it makes no difference to the bees? i do see the logic of protecting the wood right from the get go. you want it to last longer than a few years and plus you get the "most bang for your buck" right? so i get it. now you've given me more insight into your way of looking at this debatable topic. i wonder if you will help me some more. bees regulate the temperature in the hive by fanning. they therefore are also ventilating the hive if natural ventilation is insufficient. you said that the hive is always at 100% humidity year round. by that reasoning it makes sense to paint as the wood will at some stage become saturated. i understand this as i dry my wood for wood working outside in my open shed and hate if it rains on the week i intend to use some of it. maybe some day i will build a few walls to close it all in and keep much more moisture out. getting back to the question. the bees will ventilate and regulate as needed and thus keep everything dry and as you said they will coat it all in wax relatively quick. i know from experience that most things man made leave a footprint in nature. please bear with me. if we must paint the outside to protect the exterior from weathering would it not be a good idea to try and make it as small a footprint as possible and let the wood be natural on the inside thus letting the bees seal up the rest and no direct contact with the bees thus less of a footprint on nature? i just believe is best to keep things as natural as possible. in saying that in this day and age what is natural to a bee? i know bees will build a hive on virtually any surface in existence and it doesn't bother them at all. (inside the walls and eves of our houses, the rusty undercarriage of a derelict car and even inside old tires left around the yard) bees are quite wonderful little adaptive beings in nature and i believe that time will tell and with their help maybe even change the thinking of whether to paint or not to paint. thank you my friend. :)
I have never heard a good or convincing reason as to why the inside of a hive should not be painted. I paint all my equipment, both inside and out, with the best latex paint I can find. The paint seals the wood from moisture, which is the surest and fastest way to rot and decay. I put too much time and money into woodenware to have it fall apart prematurely. I have never noticed a downside to hice painted on the inside.
Just wondering if there was any reason that you didn't make the rabbets using a router? Also wondering if a series of biscuit joints would be as strong as the spline for the joinery? Or would the biscuit joints prove inadequate for the weight of the box when loaded with honey, et al?
im trying to work this all out, but why is the rebate for the frames 5/8" not 3/4"? is it to allow the 3/8" bee space to be mostly on top of the frames and a little bit on the bottom? Great video also!!
Hi Alex. Correct. The 5/8" deep frame rest (which is pretty much the standard for commercially made hive bodies) will allow for a 1/8 inch space above the frames in the lower hive body and a 1/4 inch space below the frames in the hive body above. This gives a total space of 3/8 inch, which is the magic bee space you are looking for.
I am relatively new to woodworking, so maybe this is a dumb question. Why do you make 2 passes with a thin dado blade instead of one pass with a 5/8" dado?
Not a dumb question at all! Basically I find it easier and more accurate. With two passes, each pass removes less wood (than a single, wider pass as would be the case with a dado blade setup for 5/8ths of an inch). However, a single pass with a 5/8th setup on the dado blade would work just as well. Old habits die hard...
A lot of beekeepers don't paint the inside of the hive. I have never heard a good argument as to why you should not. In my mind, as a woodworker, painting the inside of the hive helps keep moisture out of the wood and makes the boxes last a lot longer. Moisture is the #1 enemy of wood. I have boxes that are over 10 years old and are still in very goo shape. Can't say that about many of the non-painted boxes I have seen. My bees don't seem to mind the inside paint job.
feather boars sucks, if you can't put a little bit of presser against a board to the rail to rip a board you better quit wood working a feather board is just as dangerous and still get a kick back
Not at all. Cedar weathers well. Remember that the dimensions given are for 3/4-inch stock. If your boards are different then you need to take that into account. It is the inside dimension that counts. set
If you are referring to the radial arm saw, I agree that you have to be very careful. This goes for any saw in the shop... or any power tool in general. I have a big gash in the shop wall where a kickback from the radial arm saw (when making a rip cut) flew past my head and stuck in the wall behind. A good 12 feet of distance. I have never repaired the hole in the wall, as I wanted it to serve as a reminder of when things go wrong in the shop. When things go wrong, it usually happens quick and without warning. Pay attention to what you are doing and always keep personal safety in mind. No project is worth loosing a finger or having a piece of wood impaled between you eyes.
30+ years ago, my dad did a lot of wood working with his radial arm saw long before he had a table saw. Used saws are cheap. You don't need a top of the line saw when starting out.
In my opinion a spline joint, as shown in this video, is stronger than a rabbet joint. Lots more glue surface and the mechanical advantage of the spline.
CUTTING splines? USE A CUTING JIG. A SIMPLE PEACE OF MDO .# 3 strips on top THICKER than the board that is being cut. Run through. EASY! No further adjustment,, NO KICBACK.. Like the video..
Books on beekeeping and catalogs always state not to paint the inside of a hive. But I have never (and I mean never) heard a good, convincing argument as to why not. And I have asked a lot of people who know a lot more about beekeeping than I do. I strongly suspect the "do not paint" mantra descends from days long gone by when paint contained lead (as an anti-fungal agent). As a woodworker, I know that moisture is the enemy of wood. And a good paint job, outside and inside, will go a long, long way to preventing moisture from penetrating wood and starting the rot process. I have never seen any sign that the bees ingest paint flakes from inside the hive; I have never seen paint flake from inside the hive. Even if it does, I would think the bees would carry the flakes out of the hive just like they do for other debris. So when someone tells you not to paint the inside of the hive, ask they why. And then think about their answer to see if it makes any sense. That said, there are lots of options. First, is to not paint. Second, is to coat the inside of the hive with melted bees wax. Actually, this is an excellent choice and a great wood preservative. Third, is to coat the inside of the hive with a tincture of propolis. This is probably the closest you can get to what naturally occurs in a feral hive and would be the most "natural" coating you can use. If I collected propolis, this is what I would do.
8min 20sek What is the "dedoblade"? dedo-blade? I`m doing carpentry for 20 years, and NEVER hear name dedo blade. Could you show the blade, or better spell the name?
its called a dado blade stack set. they have fallen into disuse and are little hard to find unless you find one at a yard sale. it is a blade with a spacer that is thicker one side to the other to allow the next blade to cut slightly diagonally making it appear to "wobble" to make a wider cut. several of these to make the thickness of cut you need and then a end blade to clean up the end. i don't know why they're not used much these days probably cause the time it takes to set them up maybe. steve ramsey on his channel talks about them. just type in steve ramsey dado blade and should bring it up for ya.
ECO wood treat is not a very good product....maybe good in AZ but not anywhere else. Dipping in wax is also not the greatest technique because wood will absorb the wax according to the different densities found in any given slice of wood used....to inconsistent...Painting is by far the best option to protect your hive boxes....
You sound so damn professional, thanks. It's easier to follow someone when they Talk good and know what to say next, not fumbling for words. Jonesy at facebook.com/jonesyfamilystore
i dont have a table saw. but i have circular saw. any suggestions how to make the dado on the end of the board for the spline cuts without cutting of any fingers?
I am a finish carpenter and cabinet maker. Your video increased my skills and will follow your plans. Radio alarm saw is a great shop tool.David from Michigan.
sorry bro it's actually called a radial arm saw. not radio alarm saw.
Just finished my 1st one today!!! I didn't have all the fancy tools you do but i managed. Great plans they worked!!! never did woodworking like this before was a pleasant challenge. Thanx again.
Very good presentation, clear instructions.
Robert made a very good argument for box joints but they do take a little longer. Thanks Robert. I will probably do both when I make new hives.
MrKermitr
Thank you! I have been looking at plans for 8 frame Langs all day getting ready to build a new hive this week. I love this channel.
thank you friend, I am inspired by the way you cultivate honey bees. greetings from me a traditional beekeeper from Bengkulu, Indonesia
Excellent video! I've just built my first two hives watching all your videos. Thank you!
I'm delighted with how my hive bodies turned out. Thanks so much for your easy to follow tutorial on their construction. I made my splines about 4 inches longer than they needed to be. A happy by product was that I could use the cut off bottom sections as stackable drying racks to hold newly painted hive bodies.
Well done, all your videos are great, well thought out, and to the point. Thank you for your time and effort.
What a great and easy to follow/understand video! Thanks so much for taking the time to create this video!
MrHollic
This is an excellent video. The spline approach is excellent. Have to try this some winter.
These are very informative videos. Thanks a lot.
Well done! Thanks for your thorough explanation and demonstration!
Great video! I would give more than one thumbs up if I could! Very informational.
You are a true craftsman! Thanks for the vids.
Wonderfull love how you show a couple of ways I thank you very interesting. My first year next year I plan to make my own because like you I have all tools needed so really enjoyed this video and others you make. You help out us newbies to the hobby
Very clearly explained.Thanks
16 1/4" is the standard width for hive boxes. One can use 9 frames in this size to get super frames filled and 10 frames for brood chamber boxes. It is advisable to cut "box joint" fingers for all boxes as they are the strongest possible joints and will last for over 25+ yrs and not come apart. If one has a table saw, it is easy to make these cuts. Use a few scrap test cuts for best results
Very Good video. hope to see you again some time at the bee keeping meetings.
I'd love to see some videos on how to setup equipment (such as squaring saw to the table, as well as plans to make a tenon jig
Great video very good instructions
That looks like a good way to make nuc boxes without making all of the fingers.Thanks
Great job, thank you for all your video's.
Native Bee Guy
Thank you very much for the videos.
I'm wondering why you don't use a tenon joint on the end boards, instead of a spline. Easier and stronger.
Cut the tenon with the tenon jig and dado blade, then use the tenon to set the rip fence for the mortise cut. Cut a mortise in a practice piece, then use the slot to adjust your tenon. Shim your dado blade just a tad wider than 1/4", then it will ride out of the tenon cut and give a nice, clean edge.
maybe a cut box with the splines???? Otherwise thanks for walking through. Love to see a Slovenia build. Also, I recently saw a suggestion of using pvc piping to use as a "hanging" system to allow the boxes to dry after painting.
I agree great video. This will save me many $$$$. Thank you.
super presentation !
Warré Hive greetings from Normandy !
Thinks for the videos. (Algeria).
Great videos on building frames! Thanks!
Great video's! Thanks! Greeting from out Belgium,rudi
Great video Thank You From Sydney
great video very helpful thank you....
Wow. Great videos. Really clear and don't assume the learner knows details that are possibly obvious to some. Any chance of making a video showing how to make hive boxes with a simple rabbit joint for corners?
Thanks for your uploads.
crina61
Hi,
Could you give the dimensions of your tenon jig and the materials you used? I have seen several on you tube videos but yours looks the simplest. Maybe you could do a video on how to build one.
Enjoy your helpful videos. Look forward to more.
Excellent video, could you re post the plans for hive-bodies and frames?
Go to... www.michiganbees.org/beekeeping/in-the-beekeepers-workshop
Awesome videos and great work/information.
Very nice work, what grade of pine do you use for your hive body. I am trying to figure cost against buying unassembled boxes and putting them together. I realize building from scratch is very satisfying but sometimes time and cost has to be factored in. Thanks for the great videos
I bet the presenter is or was a wood shop teacher. He's almost as good as my father. :)
When you trim the box to size can't you use that as a shim for your hive?
i really appreciated your videos ty so much
I have a question, in this video at the time stamp of 13:50 you noted that the measurement across the back was 15"-3/4. Is that right?
I have reviewed this video but cannot find the comment you referenced. However, the side boards of a hive body are 14-3/4" for a 10 frame hive body. Once assembled, the ends will be 16-1/4" (again for a 10 frame hive body). Hive bodies for 8-frame and 5-frame are different, as shown in the downloadable plans. Thanks for the question.
I'm wondering we made our brood boxes and super's 6-5/8" all the same should of we made the brood box 9-5/8"? It looks like our queen has used three of the 5 super's stacked for brood.
I use only medium deep boxes (6-5/8"); for supers and brood boxes. The deeps are just too heavy for this old back. In the past few years, I have also been moving to 8 frame boxes, for the same reason. I, too, notice that three of these medium boxes usually suffice for the brood chamber, though occasionally I will see the queen use four. Roughly speaking, three medium boxes equals two deeps. By having all mediums, it makes for more efficient use of the wooden ware in that I don't have to have deeps and mediums in the bee yard operation.
I'm from Nebraska and I watched your videos about 3 years ago started my first swarm back then they did not make it through the winter! Do you use the open bottom on your base that is what I did and put the board slide-in for winter? What do you do to keep your bee's safe during the cold winter months I have two strong hives this year. If you can help?
Thank you for interesting Video! Best wishes! :)
thank you so much for making this video. i found it very informative and will be using as my guideline to make mine. one small point. since bees produce a lot of moisture of their own, painting the hive on the inside would trap all that moisture (if you seal up the hive for winter) and we all know that moisture is the enemy in winter. but whats more important? preserving the hive body or the bees? also if the general consensus is that painting the inside isn't necessary then why do it? i get protection is important for the hive body but i think letting the wood be natural on the inside so it can absorb the moisture made by the bees is more important for the outcome we're all after which is for the bees to survive winter. but what if you don't seal up the hive for winter and let nature take it's course? wouldn't the bees seal up all the cracks and crevices anyway to keep warm? still don't see the need to paint the inside. maybe over thinking things. is a debatable topic. to paint or not to paint. just logging in my view and why.
Of all the topics I get on this channel, whether or not to paint the inside of the hive is probably the most often discussed. Whether or not to paint the inside of the hive is a personal choice (see comment posted 5 days ago around February 17, 2018). I have talked to a lot of beekeepers who know a lot more about beekeeping than I do. I have yet to hear a convincing argument as to why you should NOT paint the inside of a hive. Most often mentioned is the moisture issue which you bring up. Absolutely, moisture is probably the number one problem in overwintering hives, particularly in the northern (cooler) climates. It is also true that wood will absorb moisture... but only up to a point. When wood becomes saturated, it will no longer absorb moisture. Period. So how long does it take for wood to get to this point. The inside of a hive is close to 100% humidity year round. This moisture comes from respiration of the bees and from evaporating the nectar to make honey. This is a lot of water. My feeling is that wood will reach the saturation point probably in a matter of weeks, if not days. Once that happens, no more absorption by the wood. This is why you must provide other means of getting rid of the moisture, particularly during the winter. The best way to do this is air exchange, which means having fresh air coming in from the bottom of the hive (relatively dry air) and going out of the top of the hive (relatively wet air). In short, air exchange is the solution to winter moisture, not relying on the wood to absorb it (because by that time it won't).
Over time, the bees will tend to coat the inside of any nesting cavity with wax and propolis. If you are uncomfortable with the notion of painting the inside of a hive, then coat it with a solid layer of bees wax.... or better yet a tincture of propolis. Propolis would be best and most closely mimic what happens in nature. I know of, and have seen information, on people who dip their wooden ware in melted wax. If this is done, no paint is needed (inside and out) and the wooden ware will probably last your lifetime. If I had the setup and enough wax, I would dip and not paint.
I suspect the idea of not painting the inside of a hive comes from the days when paint had lead in it to prevent mold and mildew. Those days are long gone. But once such a notion gets into the beekeeping lore, it is long lived and hard to get rid of. There are a lot of things in life which is "common knowledge" not to do (or to do), but have no real basis in fact. I suggest that painting the inside of a hive is one of these.
You are correct that to paint or not paint the inside is a debatable topic. For me, I come down on the side of painting because I know for a fact that a good paint job - on all sides - of the wooden ware will greatly extend the life of the equipment. And I have not heard a good reason to do so that stands up to a bit of critical thinking. You will put a lot of time and money into your wooden ware; and giving it a good paint job will help this investment last for years. The bees will be none the worse for doing so.
yes i suspect you are correct for the reason not to paint in the past. lead was a real nasty and good riddance. when you think about it either way does not hurt the bees at all. they adapt and keep going. so why then do we still debate since it makes no difference to the bees? i do see the logic of protecting the wood right from the get go. you want it to last longer than a few years and plus you get the "most bang for your buck" right? so i get it. now you've given me more insight into your way of looking at this debatable topic. i wonder if you will help me some more. bees regulate the temperature in the hive by fanning. they therefore are also ventilating the hive if natural ventilation is insufficient. you said that the hive is always at 100% humidity year round. by that reasoning it makes sense to paint as the wood will at some stage become saturated. i understand this as i dry my wood for wood working outside in my open shed and hate if it rains on the week i intend to use some of it. maybe some day i will build a few walls to close it all in and keep much more moisture out. getting back to the question. the bees will ventilate and regulate as needed and thus keep everything dry and as you said they will coat it all in wax relatively quick. i know from experience that most things man made leave a footprint in nature. please bear with me. if we must paint the outside to protect the exterior from weathering would it not be a good idea to try and make it as small a footprint as possible and let the wood be natural on the inside thus letting the bees seal up the rest and no direct contact with the bees thus less of a footprint on nature? i just believe is best to keep things as natural as possible. in saying that in this day and age what is natural to a bee? i know bees will build a hive on virtually any surface in existence and it doesn't bother them at all. (inside the walls and eves of our houses, the rusty undercarriage of a derelict car and even inside old tires left around the yard) bees are quite wonderful little adaptive beings in nature and i believe that time will tell and with their help maybe even change the thinking of whether to paint or not to paint. thank you my friend. :)
@@beekeepersworkshop some beekeeper that builds his own boxes, he burns the inside of his. What’s your thought on this,he gave no reason for it!
I have read the same don't paint the side of the hive. How have you done with the painted hives over the years?
I have never heard a good or convincing reason as to why the inside of a hive should not be painted. I paint all my equipment, both inside and out, with the best latex paint I can find. The paint seals the wood from moisture, which is the surest and fastest way to rot and decay. I put too much time and money into woodenware to have it fall apart prematurely. I have never noticed a downside to hice painted on the inside.
Miss new videos. Would love to see more
Just wondering if there was any reason that you didn't make the rabbets using a router?
Also wondering if a series of biscuit joints would be as strong as the spline for the joinery? Or would the biscuit joints prove inadequate for the weight of the box when loaded with honey, et al?
Nice table saw. What make and model?
The video all over is realy good
Dear Sir, What is the best wood to build the box, Cedar, right?
im trying to work this all out, but why is the rebate for the frames 5/8" not 3/4"? is it to allow the 3/8" bee space to be mostly on top of the frames and a little bit on the bottom? Great video also!!
Hi Alex. Correct. The 5/8" deep frame rest (which is pretty much the standard for commercially made hive bodies) will allow for a 1/8 inch space above the frames in the lower hive body and a 1/4 inch space below the frames in the hive body above. This gives a total space of 3/8 inch, which is the magic bee space you are looking for.
Oh also do you have any videos on making frames? I know they are for sale online but I would like to make mine.Thanks again.
Funny how time flys now putting together 8 complete new hives lol
I wonder about Butcher block oil and finish on the inside since upon drying (72 hrs.) it is food safe?
Butcher block oil is food safe. You could also use linseed oil (which is cheaper) or mineral oil. Both are food safe.
lovely and clear, can't wait to get started. "Ted Frog"
I am relatively new to woodworking, so maybe this is a dumb question. Why do you make 2 passes with a thin dado blade instead of one pass with a 5/8" dado?
Not a dumb question at all! Basically I find it easier and more accurate. With two passes, each pass removes less wood (than a single, wider pass as would be the case with a dado blade setup for 5/8ths of an inch). However, a single pass with a 5/8th setup on the dado blade would work just as well. Old habits die hard...
You done great job with the hive but why do you paint hive from the inside
A lot of beekeepers don't paint the inside of the hive. I have never heard a good argument as to why you should not. In my mind, as a woodworker, painting the inside of the hive helps keep moisture out of the wood and makes the boxes last a lot longer. Moisture is the #1 enemy of wood. I have boxes that are over 10 years old and are still in very goo shape. Can't say that about many of the non-painted boxes I have seen. My bees don't seem to mind the inside paint job.
What about using linseed oil?
Thank you for sharing. I appreciate it.
Why not place a feather board on the fence to stop kickback when making the splines?
feather boars sucks, if you can't put a little bit of presser against a board to the rail to rip a board you better quit wood working a feather board is just as dangerous and still get a kick back
Does it matter if I use spruce or Fur or Cedar instead of pine?
Not at all. Cedar weathers well. Remember that the dimensions given are for 3/4-inch stock. If your boards are different then you need to take that into account. It is the inside dimension that counts. set
@@adrianbass48813 Thanks for the information. Pine is more expensive than spruce. The cedar I was thinking of harvesting from my own land.
Where are the downloadable plans that you mention in the video?
michiganbees[dot]org/beekeeping/in-the-beekeepers-workshop/
What's the name of the plant at the beginning, please ?
Enjoyued the video,,,, made some frames...
thanks
mel
Does the timber have to be Pine? or can any work?
Pretty much any type of lumber can be used (cedar, cypress, etc) as long as it is NOT treated lumber.
That saw brings back memories...scary ones
If you are referring to the radial arm saw, I agree that you have to be very careful. This goes for any saw in the shop... or any power tool in general. I have a big gash in the shop wall where a kickback from the radial arm saw (when making a rip cut) flew past my head and stuck in the wall behind. A good 12 feet of distance. I have never repaired the hole in the wall, as I wanted it to serve as a reminder of when things go wrong in the shop. When things go wrong, it usually happens quick and without warning. Pay attention to what you are doing and always keep personal safety in mind. No project is worth loosing a finger or having a piece of wood impaled between you eyes.
@@beekeepersworkshop thank you for sharing this story and your knowledge.
Hi, inner length is 18 3/8. how did you come up with 19 7/8?
Assuming side boards are 3/4 inch each. That makes the outside footprint size 18 3/8 plus 1-1/2 (3/4 for two end boards) equals 19 7/8.
Great! Thanks!
Where can I find the downloadable plans?
go to www.michiganbees.org and search for workshop. You will come up with several hits but you are looking for beekeeper's workshop. Enjoy.
@@beekeepersworkshop Thanks,found them!!!
please what is the name of that machine
+nadjib labed Dewalt brand radial arm saw.
The yellow fall flower is goldenrod.
I want to build this but I would need a table saw first
Learn how to use the table saw before you buy one.
Look into your local tech schools and take the night course.
30+ years ago, my dad did a lot of wood working with his radial arm saw long before he had a table saw. Used saws are cheap. You don't need a top of the line saw when starting out.
Why not make rabbet joints instead?
In my opinion a spline joint, as shown in this video, is stronger than a rabbet joint. Lots more glue surface and the mechanical advantage of the spline.
Thank you !
Are there plans ??
kestrelblue www.michiganbees.org/beekeeping/in-the-beekeepers-workshop/
Thank you . Box joints where taking to much time .
The chart says 8 frame 13-3/4. You say 8 frame 12-1/4 ?
hi great video's can you help I can't find the plans to down load
regards Michael
michael randall www.michiganbees.org/beekeeping/in-the-beekeepers-workshop/
muito bom !10
That is a different way to do it. Just the cost of the lumber and your time.
This old house meets Bob Ross
Be sure to save this video until you are ready to make Beehives.
men why paint inside ?
You are right!
He doesn't need (and must not) paint them on the inside. Some dedicated beekeepers don't paint even on the outside.
himenes0
Box joints are far better than the splines you are using. Why didn't you use them?
CUTTING splines? USE A CUTING JIG. A SIMPLE PEACE OF MDO .# 3 strips on top THICKER than the board that is being cut. Run through. EASY! No further adjustment,, NO KICBACK.. Like the video..
I thought that this was a nice orderly presentation.
I have understood not to paiint inside ever....
Books on beekeeping and catalogs always state not to paint the inside of a hive. But I have never (and I mean never) heard a good, convincing argument as to why not. And I have asked a lot of people who know a lot more about beekeeping than I do. I strongly suspect the "do not paint" mantra descends from days long gone by when paint contained lead (as an anti-fungal agent). As a woodworker, I know that moisture is the enemy of wood. And a good paint job, outside and inside, will go a long, long way to preventing moisture from penetrating wood and starting the rot process.
I have never seen any sign that the bees ingest paint flakes from inside the hive; I have never seen paint flake from inside the hive. Even if it does, I would think the bees would carry the flakes out of the hive just like they do for other debris.
So when someone tells you not to paint the inside of the hive, ask they why. And then think about their answer to see if it makes any sense.
That said, there are lots of options. First, is to not paint. Second, is to coat the inside of the hive with melted bees wax. Actually, this is an excellent choice and a great wood preservative. Third, is to coat the inside of the hive with a tincture of propolis. This is probably the closest you can get to what naturally occurs in a feral hive and would be the most "natural" coating you can use. If I collected propolis, this is what I would do.
8min 20sek What is the "dedoblade"? dedo-blade? I`m doing carpentry for 20 years, and NEVER hear name dedo blade. Could you show the blade, or better spell the name?
www.amazon.com/Oshlun-SDS-0842-8-Inch-Tooth-Stack/dp/B0012YF25Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1416747485&sr=8-3&keywords=dado+blade
Brzeczyszczykiewicz Trzetrzopszczulski dado
its called a dado blade stack set. they have fallen into disuse and are little hard to find unless you find one at a yard sale. it is a blade with a spacer that is thicker one side to the other to allow the next blade to cut slightly diagonally making it appear to "wobble" to make a wider cut. several of these to make the thickness of cut you need and then a end blade to clean up the end. i don't know why they're not used much these days probably cause the time it takes to set them up maybe. steve ramsey on his channel talks about them. just type in steve ramsey dado blade and should bring it up for ya.
ECO wood treat is not a very good product....maybe good in AZ but not anywhere else. Dipping in wax is also not the greatest technique because wood will absorb the wax according to the different densities found in any given slice of wood used....to inconsistent...Painting is by far the best option to protect your hive boxes....
You sound so damn professional, thanks. It's easier to follow someone when they Talk good and know what to say next, not fumbling for words. Jonesy at facebook.com/jonesyfamilystore
我完全听不懂
αμμα δεν ξερης εγγλέζικα ΤΙ ΝΑ ΚΑΤΑΛΑΒΗΣ λοιπαμε που μικρος δεν εμαθα
you overcomplicate things.
i dont have a table saw. but i have circular saw. any suggestions how to make the dado on the end of the board for the spline cuts without cutting of any fingers?