Make your own palm wax candles at home? Candeo Candle shows you how!
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- My name is Caitlin, the head candlemaker here at Candeo Candle, and I'm here to share our secret tips and tricks for making awesome palm wax candles at home. In this video I'll be sharing our method for making one of our most popular candles in palm wax, our Campfire jar. Palm wax can be challenging to work with but you can also make some really unique, beautiful candles with it! Enjoy, and as always, don't be afraid to shine!
Check out our finished Campfire Jars on our website at www.candeocand...
Or purchase your own Campfire Fragrance Oil at Candeo Candle Supply
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Leave me a comment to let me know what you think, or if you have any questions!
Thanks so much!
Caitlin - Candeo Candle
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Let me know what you think and if you have any questions! And thank you for watching!
Hey Caitlyn!! Candy corn girl here!!! Jerry and I are taking a candle class next week! So excited you opened this website while we are learing. Will you be selling CANDY CORN fragrance oil? If so I'm in... if I succeed I will only buy this from you. No one does candy corn like Caitlin....so excited!!❤❤❤❤❤
That's so awesome! I will be listing Candy Corn fragrance oil on our new candle supply website soon. It's www.candeocandlesupply.com. 💜
@@CandeoCandleSoyCandles I almost collapsed
TRY THIS GREAT LADY'S CANDY CORN CANDLES
Are you using Palm 1? You said that your wax is slightly different than glass glow palm.
Yes! This is Palm 1 from Candlewic.
@@CandeoCandleSoyCandles Thank you! I have been using glass glow palm, but recently ordered a sample of Palm 1 from Candlewic, to see how they compare. This video is absolutely refreshing... there is so little information out there about working with palm! Also, I love that you live in Idaho! I am from the White Mountains of Northern New Hampshire, and I am now living in Maine. I have chosen palm wax for my Granite State collection, as the crystallizations resemble that of the granite rock formations of the North Country of Northern New Hampshire. Can I ask what temperature you are pouring at? I have been pouring at 200, following all of the guidance I have been able to find, in order to maximize the crystal formations in this wax. Yours is the first advice I have come across suggesting it is better to pour at a lower temperature. I have wondered about the fragrance burning off, assuming it a less than desirable trade. Also I have had trouble with the wicks pulling out of their tabs, I assume from a combination of preheating the containers and pouring at such a high temperature. I have yet to find a solution. I am going to try your suggestion of preheating the containers, but pouring at a lower temperature. Also, I believe I will try your advice of using high melt point glue to adhere the wick tabs to the container. Thank you soooooo much for your video. I am a high school math teacher by day, and I have been working towards starting my candle business for over 2 years. Your video is the best information I have seen during this entire time. I hope you will keep them coming :o)
So nice to hear from you Kimberly! Palm wax can be tricky to work with, but the results are so beautiful! Palm 1 has a slightly tighter crystal formation compared to Glass Glow, and I feel like air pockets are less of a problem with Palm 1. I heat the Palm 1 to 194F, and than I add fragrance (I use 6%), stir for 1-2 minutes and pour into preheated containers. By the time its been stirred, depending on the ambient temperature of your room, the wax will have cooled to between 165-180 or so. The main thing to look for when you pour is that the jar doesn't turn opaque as soon as you pour it. If it does, you won't have crystal formation on the sides of the jar. You can fix this if it happens by hitting the outside of the jars with the heat gun until the wax on the inside solidifies again. When you say the wick tabs are pulling out of their tabs, do you mean the wood wick is coming out of the metal piece you glue to the bottom, or the metal is detaching from the jar? If it's the former, I've noticed some companies wick tabs are really thin and dont hold the wicks as well as they should, if it's the latter, the high melt glue will help! Let me know if you have any other questions, i'm more than happy to help!
@@CandeoCandleSoyCandles You are a treasure! How glad am I that I found you??? So glad!!! Yes, I totally have more questions! And I thank you so much for your patience, and for sharing your knowledge, and your awesome expertise! I have been cooling my glass glow candles in a cooling chamber, using the flip method, and conventional wicks (vs. wood wicks). I have been preheating my clear glass jars in the oven at (170) before lining them up in the cooling chamber to be poured. I have tried both wicking the containers before preheating, and after. I have been clamping the wick tabs on myself with all of my might, and some still separate from the wick as soon as I have poured (the rest will also separate if I put any tension on them at all, so I worry they are not pulled up taught into their wick holders at the mouth of the jar; so they probably have a bit of a bend instead of standing up straight and tall). What I think might be happening is that preheating and/or pouring causes the wax that the wicks are primed in to melt, enough to create a smaller wick diameter, and then they separate from their tabs. I've used wire strippers to remove the wax from the bottom 1/2" of the wicks before clamping on the tabs... and still they came apart :o(
And sadly, yes, I have also had issues with the wick tabs detaching from the container. I typically use wick stickers, but I have even tried using gasket sealer, and still they detached. I think this is likely due to the fact that I was cooling them on the flip. Would you please tell me where I can buy an awesome hot glue gun like yours, and high temperature glue? I would love to be able to try that next, and I even wonder if I can manage to hot glue the bottom of the wick to it's wick tab in the process! How great would that be?! With glass glow, I once tried a 2nd pour over relief holes, but you could see the "line" where the 2nd pour starts near the top of the candle. Do you feel this is also the case with Palm 1? Or, is there a certain pour temperature that will camouflage the 2nd pour line? I think if I could start to use this method, my wick tabs should have a far better chance of remaining fixed to the container!
Thank you so much for sharing the heat and pour temperatures, fragrance oil percentage, as well as the mix and pour procedures that you use. This is extremely helpful information which I will be trying out next time! You mentioned heating the containers with a heat gun if the newly poured candle jar does not appear clear. When you said to hit the outside of the jars with the heat gun until the wax on the inside solidifies again, did you mean until the sides of the container appear clear/no longer opaque? This one point I am a little uncertain on. Again, I thank you very much for your help! You are a gift, and just the boost I need to make a safe and well performing palm candle ! :oD
First, the wick tabs... they can be tough to crimp on just right! The trick, is to not pull the wick through the tab until it is flush with the tab, but instead allow a tiny bit of the wick to poke out the backside of the tab. Than I use diagonal cutters to crimp the neck of the tab. Don't crimp too hard, or you will actually cut the wick inside the tab and it will pop right out. Once you have them tabbed right, they will be almost impossible to pull out.
If you preheat your jars in the oven, do it just long enough to take the chill off the jars, but not long enough to melt the wax coating on the wicks. If they've been in long enough to melt the coating, the glue holding the tabs down can also melt and come loose. I use this glue gun from Uline... www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-1903/Glue-Guns-and-Glue-Sticks/Uline-Heavy-Duty-Glue-Gun-1-2-300-Watt and their 1/2" diameter Heavy Duty glue sticks. You can get these from other places, just make sure to look for a temperature adjustable high temp glue gun.
Lastly, hit the sides of the container until they no longer appear opaque. When the sides are too cold, the wax hits them and instantly solidifies. You want to melt that layer of wax that has solidifed on the outside of the conainer, so that crystal formation can show through as the candle cools.
And I'm so sorry for the late response! I checked for new comments, but didn't realize it wouldn't show up as a new comment on an old thread. Apparently, I'm showing my age!
Let me know if you have any other questions, or would like me to make a video to clarify anything!