Some of us ARE engineers and need a reminder that we're building furniture that is much less accurate than that required in the rest of our day to day lives. :-) Excellent video!
I’m not an engineer but was a computer programmer decades ago when a simple mistake like putting a letter where only numbers should be could crash the whole system. Analyze, plan, “build”, then test it every way you can think of. “Close enough” seems to be against my nature, but in a way it’s wonderful. Part A isn’t perfect. Neither is Part B. However, I’m discovering that figuring out tweaks so the end result is OK is satisfying. Concluding “that mistake just doesn’t matter” is hard for me to accept but it’s getting easier. Maybe woodworking is good for me!
Just got into woodworking last December, and been studying up through UA-cam university lol. You just came up as a recommendation after six months of watching, and wow. No product pushing, no loud, over the top theatrics (yes I know that quite a bit of work goes into the production value, but it's transparent, it works). You have a good mix of both power tool and hand tool use. Great job. Keep it up.
Aren't those people who jump all over the screen and try to be louder than the next guy, annoying as hell! It seems to be an American thing. (Not all) They don't seem to realise that people are watching to learn how to make something, not watch a circus act. Bourbon Moth is one that comes to mind. You'd think his target audience is 8 year old kids. This guy is cool, calm, and collected and gives you everything you need without the sideshow theatrics.
I love your basic message of make something with the tools and skills you have, and then progress from there. That is counter to my engineer's brain which is obsessed with precision so it is easy to get into all the fancy jigs and high precision tools. I've even purchased some, only to never use them because they are more trouble to use than with simpler jigs and techniques. Like your show because it has allowed me to kick back and relax, to focus on enjoying the process while learning.
I totally understand what your intention is with this video but at the same time... I love making jigs that look beautiful. At the end of the day... people will make time for what is important to them. You for example spend extra time making youtube videos, which is great, while others may spend a bit of extra time on their jigs. I don't think there's any wrong answer. But I can appreciate that you are trying to bring simplicity to people who may get overwhelmed by seeing flawless jigs that take days to build or something
I really appreciate your thoughtful and gracious rebuttal. And an excellent point you made, to boot. If you like making highly accurate, beautiful jigs, I say more power to you. Enjoy the process man. If it brings you joy, it’s worth doing!
As you mentioned there are several ways to cut tenons. I have had real good success using an extension to the miter gauge . a stop block applied for the length. The cut through the extension gives me an accurate tenon length to start . All I have to do is set the depth of my blade. works like a charm. I also like your method and if I was to make items frequently that required tenons I would make one like yours. I also have several miter gauges set for other task as well.
Thank you for saying out loud what I've often wondered as a weekend woodworker watching UA-cam for ideas and technique: "does it really need to be that complicated? Does EVERY jig need T track and integrated clamps?" 😂
How are you not the most popular woodworker on YT? Love your perspective. I am trying your custom finish on the cabinet I am building for my wife's new double oven. Thanks for your time. Wish you were in KC area and still teaching.
@@ENCurtis well I got it put on last night about 630pm. As of 5am it’s still quite tacky. Is that normal? Seems my straight poly dried faster. I did use equal parts watco danish oil, actual turpentine, and varithane oil based semi-gloss poly. Not sure if it’s a problem. If it doesn’t dry, can I use mineral spirits to clean it off without damaging my first coat of straight poly? Should have tested it first, but I’m constrained by turkey day and getting the double oven installed for my wife. Thanks for the help.
You must really hate having to make a piece of fine furniture where form is every bit as important as function, if not more. Like why make a fine jewelry box? Surely there’s an old cardboard shoe box lying around that will function adequately to contain the jewels. Wait…jewels…what’s their function anyway? Just sell the jewels and put the money in an index fund and fill the box with old tax returns, instruction manuals, exploded parts diagrams and divorce papers.
I built a tenoning jig a couple of months back and it took me three tries to get the face perpendicular to the table. The main problem with the first two was that even though everything was square when I clamped it, driving some screws took it out of square. The third try was like yours where I made the 3-sided box to go over the table saw fence. That proved to be easier for keeping things square but I still had a problem with the whole jig moving slightly while over the fence. I used my jig to make some castle joints, which turned out fine, but I did need to pay attention to the proper position of the jig as I pushed it through the cut. I have a Ridgid R4512 with the stock fence. That fence is really narrow compared to many other table saws out there. That may have contributed to the problems I had. I may try making another one. Maybe I'll learn a better trick to compensate for the narrow fence. Loved your simple design, though.
I wonder if padding out the back side of the fence and therefore extending the width of the jig would help. Doesn't make the fence any wider but gives more purchase to the bottom of the jig. Can't promise that would work. But it might.
THANK YOU for the comment about the MIL-HAIR of space that was there! I always see UA-cam woodworkers talk about having a perfect 90. I can’t tell you how much I’ve stressed myself out over the mil-hairs over the years. Not saying you’ve given me permission to slog-it. But you’ve given me permission to not beat myself up over extremely slight imperfections ❤️
I was debating between the two, when I upgrade from my skilsaw spt99-11. Still can’t find a zero clearance lol. So I don’t mind seeing a mix of the two machines now.
Rather than rebuilding the base for every temporary jig, is it practical to put a t-track in the middle of what you have built and then simply use track nuts to attach a new face for any new jig you need?
Dude I swear to GAWD!!!! the way I was taught by an 70 year old man has my jigs looking like they were built by a 5th grade shop class lol quick accurate & efficient
I love it! I've been itching to try mortise and tenons. One of the biggest deterrents to me as an amateur\hobbyist is coming onto UA-cam to look for how-to videos and finding jig builds that are nicer and more complex than most of the actual projects I complete. I grew up with untreated ADHD and learning, planning, and following through is a constant struggle. Most projects take me way, WAY longer than they should. Adding needless complexity only makes it worse. This helps a lot. I think I'll make a clamp rack like yours too. Why it never occurred to me that it was "allowed" to be so simple, I can't explain. 😅
I really appreciate that my man. And I can relate. I have a similar enough story. And as for simple, I've found almost without fail that the simplest approach provides the best results--both in terms of execution and mental health 😂
You copying me, or what?! You took the words, straight out of my brain. (Even though I hadn't thought them, yet) I get sidetracked, more often than not, and it takes AGES to get anything accomplished. It's very, VERY, frustrating, and I would LOVE to find a way to overcome it. And, I guess I should stop throwing ALL my clamp racks, in the "scrap" pit. 😂
@@AmericansWillRise I spend more time bouncing around and looking for something I set down somewhere than I do working on my project! It's an eternal struggle. I find I'm less likely to get sidetracked if I break down tasks into bite sized pieces, and most importantly put all the tools I'm using in their designated spaces or else they vanish. 😶🌫
@@jamesromanchik I swear, I have a ghost in my shop. "I JUST HAD IT", is a constant battle, even when I have just 4 tools on the table. And, I always find myself putting them down in a different place, EVERY time I put them down.
I have slightly unrelated question. Why do you need glue when you used nails? I understand for furniture, it need to be strong due for example day to day use, need withstand more stress. But jig like this are light, and are use by skilled hands, holding force of nails isn't enought?
I will run a dovetail groove verit/horiz or 2 on there to use matchfit clamps. I also would not glue the vertical stop on there, which makes it possible to do angled tenons, angled bridle joints, splines, etc. That's about all the gjuzh though.
A few dovetail grooves on that tall fence and you can use Matchfit clamps to hold pieces. Need to cut weird angled slots for miter splines? Build a quick and dirty jig, clamp IT to the fence and the part too. That jig becomes useful for other jigs as a result of a few router cuts. One simple worthwhile addition. Another addition is to build that first box out of HDPE so it slides better.
As someone with engineering degrees, when woodworking I have to remind myself "dude, you don't work for NASA". I sharpen my blades woodworking sharp. If my crosscut sled is 1-10 millionth out of square, it will be ok. The pursuit of absolute perfection will kill a project faster than anything. No matter what youtube says.
I’m curious, maybe I’m missing something. I watched your mortising video first where you used a plunge router that left rounded edges in the mortise. You referenced this video for the tenon jig as opposed to the OS. Do you have a technique for rounding the tenon edges to match the mortise or would you just chop the mortise square to match your tenon?
Thoughts on the Harvey table saw? I’m looking to upgrade in the next couple months, and have gone between Harvey and SawStop. Thanks man!! Another needed video out here in this woodsphere! 🔥🔥
Harvey’s saw has been solid for me so far. A couple minor tweaks that I would make to it but nothing that changes it’s function or capacity. Overall I think it’s perfectly adequate for furniture-level work.
I've got a Harvey. They work. If you want the cheaper option they are good. But you are definitely getting the cheaper option. After sales service has been literally non existent for me. My next saw, I'll avoid both saw stop and Harvey and buy a European made saw.
My thoughts on Harvey is more on how Chinese companies work with manufacturers. When you go to manufacture, you're forced to turn over all patents and designs to the government. After a while of manufacturing for you, they will then take the designs and start manufacturing it on their own, sticking it to the companies that actually developed and designed the products. That's what Harvey is. They've taken all the designs done by US and Euro companies and put their name on it.
Thanks for the content. I've a Harvey table saw and made complicated fences to fit around the aluminum fence. Embarrassed to say that I didn't think to remove all the fence substructure. Sorta goes with the point of the video. Keep it simple stupid. 👍🏼
Absolutely agree. There is nothing wrong with building a fancy jig out of Cocobolo and 5000 year old bog oak if that satisfies some personality trait. There is nothing wrong in sharpening your blades to 100,000 grit ( if that exists) if you want to shave in the reflection. It just isn’t necessary. I build jigs all the time. Some are long term keepers and so I build them more substantially but only out of scraps. If it’s a jig for a one-off build, then I build them as strongly as I need to for that build and then scrap them. Don’t beat yourself up on building jogs. They are a tool just like a saw or a screwdriver or a router. My tools have the scars of life on them but it doesn’t affect how they work. If your scraps have the odd screw hole or paint splash, then don’t worry, just carry on. Allied to jigs, is this thing about the tool you use to keep your hands away from the saw blades. For me, there are just a few essentials: - they have to be solid - but any timber over 12mm is going to be solid - they have to be long enough to keep my hands far enough away - they have to have the kind of hand grip that prevents my hands slipping - they have to have a notch so that the timber to be cut sits nicely For me, that’s it. I make mine out of scraps and each one is different because the scraps tend to be different. People who take hours to fashion theirs to a particular fashion are fine - I just have other things to do. People who sell expensive handles are just richer than you (now, that is). Gauge blocks. I never came across these in woodworking until a couple of years ago. Then I saw them on YT. All by Woodpecker initially. I’ve never felt the need to have gauge blocks; I’ve always found a ruler to be fine - if I really want extra precision, then I use my vernier gauge. I could buy a set of engineer’s gauge blocks here in the UK for £200. That’s a lot of money but we’ll spent if you are…an engineer. Or I could buy the deluxe set of blocks designed for woodworkers from Woodpecker for $500 plus. That’s almost indecent to me. I don’t know if the YT channels who feature these blocks have bought them out of their hard-earned or not; I just don’t know. You can make up your on minds.
I literally thought about this jig today. I've put it off, cuz I also have the Harvey Alpha tables, with the Ripmaster fence. Can't believe this showed up in my feed today. Can UA-cam now read my thoughts? Creepy
@Encurtis the other jig you use for cutting on the other side of the fence is it made made from you? Is there a video of how to make on of this. It would be very useful even in a floor installer and not furniture maker. Thanks for the very good content
Subscribed! Must ask though: if you're not using the old jig (or even if you are), why not rip a shim to fill the gap between the jig and fence so you can keep the old one?
Loving your approach. Simple and to the point. What brand or type ear protection are you using?? I find the headsets over my glasses and safety glasses allows too much noise in and have been looking for a better option than foamie inserts.
newbie question about tenon's if i were going for a bit of a brutal industrial kind of deal is there any reason you couldn't use the whole piece of wood as the tenon? (assuming the mortice piece is big enough to take it of course) i mean i know you wouldn't get any "shoulder" but does that matter when the strength comes from the tenon itself?
Using the whole piece of wood as the tenon? Sure, it just needs to be 1/3 the thickness of the material for maximum strength. That's the traditional way of constructing farm gates using mortice and tenon joints with driven dowels for example. Also fencing rails though posts etc.
I didn’t own the SawStop at my previous shop, so when I moved into this new space I had to outfit it with an appropriately powerful saw (the one I did own was not). Full disclosure, Harvey did provide me this saw. So it was less a choice of moving away from a SawStop and more the realities of a budget. They are both well made saws.
So in your build it appears that the legs of the "main body" of the jig - not the face of the jig that you purposefully kept off the top of the saw - is actually resting on the saw's table top. You can clearly see that the bridging piece ("sill plate") between the two "legs" is proud of the main body of the fence. Is that correct? I've seen other builds of similar jigs where the advice is to keep those two legs off the saw's top so they're not catching in the miter slots as you move the fence. In that case, presumably, you're really counting on the top of the fence being parallel to the top of the saw to ensure the face of the fence is vertical. It seems to me the jig really should be referencing off the table top not the top of the remainder of the Harvey fence, as that's what you "square to", and just be careful when moving the fence with the jig attached.
You’re absolutely right. And I thought about doing that. But that wouldn’t have helped anyone looking to build themselves a tenoning jig, so here we are 😎
Useless to me since I don't have a workbench or table saw... But good stuff! I'm looking for those easy to use options for projects like desks and cabinets but without having a garage to work with.
If speed and simplicity were in focus I would modify the existing jig, but I guess that would not do much for the thumbnail either. 😄 Good job though - ten thumbs up! 👍🏻
@@ENCurtis just checking😁 I have like 1 4x8x3/4 sheet left, saving it, not sure what to make with it but there hard to find, nobody seems to carry any with the situation over sea. Speaking of Lancaster, PA…I picked up a Yorkie pup from a breeder out there, interesting town. Thanks for the reply, I’ll have more questions about Hand Planers soon. Just a heads up, the Rockler in Mt.Laurel, NJ is having very good sale on exotic wood.
So a little green and safety out the door. I noticed first with StumpyNubs who promotes safety but got rid of his Sawstop for a Harvey. I still like him though I don’t consider his product reviews as honest
Great helpful realistic content, you're creating, I like it a lot. Please stop using the auto-focus of your camera. It fucks up your shots. It's more work, I know, but your ideas are valuable enough for the extra effort. Cheers!
You don't need a jig. 1. Set the fence on the length of the tenon. 2. Set the hight of the blade on the depth of the shoulder 3. Move continuous fast youre wood from left to right and go slowly forward 4. Do that at all sides and you have youre tenon.
Mate, To the existing jig, I would have Added a long, vertical piece with the correct height glued at under the existing top, and held against the metal rail, and a narrow long piece glued both sides and fitted between the existing and new vertical pieces at the bottom. Job done.
I dunno guy... ongoing bashing of "you tubers" who aren't professionals was cool at first.. then you spend a ton of time on a jig, that only differs from the rooks in that couple small bells and whistles less.. like holes for clamps for example.... You are extremely good, and should spend less time knocking the rookies. I'll stop.
At the start you talk about keeping jigs simple and not worrying about the thumbnail...then you shape the support brackets instead of just making simple triangular brackets. 😂😂😂
@@ENCurtis You have a large flat surface to clamp to so not so sure it was necessary. Always fun to make them a bit prettier but it kind of incongruous with the idea expressed at the start. No big deal ....just made me laugh when I saw it.
Some of us ARE engineers and need a reminder that we're building furniture that is much less accurate than that required in the rest of our day to day lives. :-) Excellent video!
I’m not an engineer but was a computer programmer decades ago when a simple mistake like putting a letter where only numbers should be could crash the whole system. Analyze, plan, “build”, then test it every way you can think of.
“Close enough” seems to be against my nature, but in a way it’s wonderful. Part A isn’t perfect. Neither is Part B. However, I’m discovering that figuring out tweaks so the end result is OK is satisfying. Concluding “that mistake just doesn’t matter” is hard for me to accept but it’s getting easier. Maybe woodworking is good for me!
Just got into woodworking last December, and been studying up through UA-cam university lol. You just came up as a recommendation after six months of watching, and wow. No product pushing, no loud, over the top theatrics (yes I know that quite a bit of work goes into the production value, but it's transparent, it works). You have a good mix of both power tool and hand tool use. Great job. Keep it up.
Thank you. I really appreciate that!
same here, took you a while to pop into algo but now I'm happy
Aren't those people who jump all over the screen and try to be louder than the next guy, annoying as hell! It seems to be an American thing. (Not all)
They don't seem to realise that people are watching to learn how to make something, not watch a circus act. Bourbon Moth is one that comes to mind. You'd think his target audience is 8 year old kids.
This guy is cool, calm, and collected and gives you everything you need without the sideshow theatrics.
I second that. Love your videos.
I love your basic message of make something with the tools and skills you have, and then progress from there. That is counter to my engineer's brain which is obsessed with precision so it is easy to get into all the fancy jigs and high precision tools. I've even purchased some, only to never use them because they are more trouble to use than with simpler jigs and techniques. Like your show because it has allowed me to kick back and relax, to focus on enjoying the process while learning.
I totally understand what your intention is with this video but at the same time... I love making jigs that look beautiful. At the end of the day... people will make time for what is important to them. You for example spend extra time making youtube videos, which is great, while others may spend a bit of extra time on their jigs. I don't think there's any wrong answer. But I can appreciate that you are trying to bring simplicity to people who may get overwhelmed by seeing flawless jigs that take days to build or something
I really appreciate your thoughtful and gracious rebuttal. And an excellent point you made, to boot. If you like making highly accurate, beautiful jigs, I say more power to you. Enjoy the process man. If it brings you joy, it’s worth doing!
As you mentioned there are several ways to cut tenons. I have had real good success using an extension to the miter gauge . a stop block applied for the length. The cut through the extension gives me an accurate tenon length to start . All I have to do is set the depth of my blade. works like a charm. I also like your method and if I was to make items frequently that required tenons I would make one like yours. I also have several miter gauges set for other task as well.
Thank you for saying out loud what I've often wondered as a weekend woodworker watching UA-cam for ideas and technique: "does it really need to be that complicated? Does EVERY jig need T track and integrated clamps?" 😂
How are you not the most popular woodworker on YT? Love your perspective. I am trying your custom finish on the cabinet I am building for my wife's new double oven. Thanks for your time. Wish you were in KC area and still teaching.
I appreciate that! And hope the finish works out on your new project 👊
Applied a coat over the poly I put on 2 days ago. This goes on way smoother and easier. It does have quite the odor, however. Thanks for replying.
@@ENCurtis well I got it put on last night about 630pm. As of 5am it’s still quite tacky. Is that normal? Seems my straight poly dried faster. I did use equal parts watco danish oil, actual turpentine, and varithane oil based semi-gloss poly. Not sure if it’s a problem. If it doesn’t dry, can I use mineral spirits to clean it off without damaging my first coat of straight poly? Should have tested it first, but I’m constrained by turkey day and getting the double oven installed for my wife. Thanks for the help.
@@ENCurtis it all worked out great. Wife loves the new cabinet. Thanks for all the content you provide. Always a relaxing moment watching your videos.
Thank you for this Curtis! Clear and to the point. I gotta build one for my tablesaw.
Yeeeeaaahhh this is my wife and me. Quick functional jigs that do the job. Keep it if you going to build that thing again.
I’m all about the quick, dirty, and functional 👊
Probably one of the most well explained videos I’ve seen. Thanks for sharing!
Hi. Curious. I’m getting set to upgrade table saw. Narrowed choices to Harvey and Saw Stop. What moved I to switch? Thanks. Love your vids
sawstop no question. fella is getting paid by harvey to use an objectively inferior saw.
Excellent production values & great content/advice - Kudos to you sir❣
The Harvey saw is incredible. Great addition to my shop!
Love to hear it!
Great video. I’m a function over form guy anyway and this no bs approach to efficiency is excellent!
You must really hate having to make a piece of fine furniture where form is every bit as important as function, if not more. Like why make a fine jewelry box? Surely there’s an old cardboard shoe box lying around that will function adequately to contain the jewels. Wait…jewels…what’s their function anyway? Just sell the jewels and put the money in an index fund and fill the box with old tax returns, instruction manuals, exploded parts diagrams and divorce papers.
I built a tenoning jig a couple of months back and it took me three tries to get the face perpendicular to the table. The main problem with the first two was that even though everything was square when I clamped it, driving some screws took it out of square. The third try was like yours where I made the 3-sided box to go over the table saw fence. That proved to be easier for keeping things square but I still had a problem with the whole jig moving slightly while over the fence. I used my jig to make some castle joints, which turned out fine, but I did need to pay attention to the proper position of the jig as I pushed it through the cut.
I have a Ridgid R4512 with the stock fence. That fence is really narrow compared to many other table saws out there. That may have contributed to the problems I had. I may try making another one. Maybe I'll learn a better trick to compensate for the narrow fence.
Loved your simple design, though.
I wonder if padding out the back side of the fence and therefore extending the width of the jig would help. Doesn't make the fence any wider but gives more purchase to the bottom of the jig. Can't promise that would work. But it might.
Just made a jig using double-sided tape - took 10 minutes to make, worked perfectly, and can be easily reconfigured for other jobs.
By far my favorite wood worker.
Appreciate you!!
THANK YOU for the comment about the MIL-HAIR of space that was there! I always see UA-cam woodworkers talk about having a perfect 90. I can’t tell you how much I’ve stressed myself out over the mil-hairs over the years. Not saying you’ve given me permission to slog-it. But you’ve given me permission to not beat myself up over extremely slight imperfections ❤️
It's commonly called an RCH.
RCH is short for...
Harvey must be paying quite a bit of cheddar for these people to dump their SawStops.
oh most def
I was debating between the two, when I upgrade from my skilsaw spt99-11. Still can’t find a zero clearance lol. So I don’t mind seeing a mix of the two machines now.
@@AfterBurn65I had that same saw and they never had any of the accessories available. It was still a good saw but I like my sawstop.
@@Weshopwizard love the saw. Super powerful But not enough support for it, so I think it’s time for a cabinet saw of some kind. With a real iron top
They just give them the saw for free. I follow a couple other channels that they done that for too.
Rather than rebuilding the base for every temporary jig, is it practical to put a t-track in the middle of what you have built and then simply use track nuts to attach a new face for any new jig you need?
Dude I swear to GAWD!!!! the way I was taught by an 70 year old man has my jigs looking like they were built by a 5th grade shop class lol quick accurate & efficient
I love it! I've been itching to try mortise and tenons. One of the biggest deterrents to me as an amateur\hobbyist is coming onto UA-cam to look for how-to videos and finding jig builds that are nicer and more complex than most of the actual projects I complete. I grew up with untreated ADHD and learning, planning, and following through is a constant struggle. Most projects take me way, WAY longer than they should. Adding needless complexity only makes it worse. This helps a lot. I think I'll make a clamp rack like yours too. Why it never occurred to me that it was "allowed" to be so simple, I can't explain. 😅
I really appreciate that my man. And I can relate. I have a similar enough story. And as for simple, I've found almost without fail that the simplest approach provides the best results--both in terms of execution and mental health 😂
You copying me, or what?! You took the words, straight out of my brain. (Even though I hadn't thought them, yet)
I get sidetracked, more often than not, and it takes AGES to get anything accomplished. It's very, VERY, frustrating, and I would LOVE to find a way to overcome it.
And, I guess I should stop throwing ALL my clamp racks, in the "scrap" pit. 😂
@@AmericansWillRise I spend more time bouncing around and looking for something I set down somewhere than I do working on my project! It's an eternal struggle. I find I'm less likely to get sidetracked if I break down tasks into bite sized pieces, and most importantly put all the tools I'm using in their designated spaces or else they vanish. 😶🌫
@@jamesromanchik I swear, I have a ghost in my shop. "I JUST HAD IT", is a constant battle, even when I have just 4 tools on the table. And, I always find myself putting them down in a different place, EVERY time I put them down.
… and I though I was the only one !
I have slightly unrelated question. Why do you need glue when you used nails? I understand for furniture, it need to be strong due for example day to day use, need withstand more stress. But jig like this are light, and are use by skilled hands, holding force of nails isn't enought?
What kind of blade are you using to cut those tenons so clean?
Thank you, captain woods. This looks like a miniature church pew, I love it
Hahaha it does look something like a pew
Very nice jig, I can see using this for a lot! Thx
I will run a dovetail groove verit/horiz or 2 on there to use matchfit clamps. I also would not glue the vertical stop on there, which makes it possible to do angled tenons, angled bridle joints, splines, etc. That's about all the gjuzh though.
A few dovetail grooves on that tall fence and you can use Matchfit clamps to hold pieces. Need to cut weird angled slots for miter splines? Build a quick and dirty jig, clamp IT to the fence and the part too. That jig becomes useful for other jigs as a result of a few router cuts. One simple worthwhile addition.
Another addition is to build that first box out of HDPE so it slides better.
"No practical woodworker builds pretty jigs" - proceeds to build a jig exactly 7.6 x sexier than anything I've ever built
What is the make and model of your brad nailer?
That's funny! I have been looking for an ENcurtis jig to do all of my woodworking the correct way...
Had to chuckle when you referenced the Eiffel Tower……man that sucker is definitely not perpendicular 😀
😂😂 but, in fairness, it’s structural integrity is still far more important than a simple tenon I think.
Hi. Really appreciate the way you explain ut and teach.
Thanks for sharing this.
How did you round off the corners of the tenons?
As someone with engineering degrees, when woodworking I have to remind myself "dude, you don't work for NASA". I sharpen my blades woodworking sharp. If my crosscut sled is 1-10 millionth out of square, it will be ok. The pursuit of absolute perfection will kill a project faster than anything. No matter what youtube says.
I’m curious, maybe I’m missing something. I watched your mortising video first where you used a plunge router that left rounded edges in the mortise. You referenced this video for the tenon jig as opposed to the OS. Do you have a technique for rounding the tenon edges to match the mortise or would you just chop the mortise square to match your tenon?
I most often round my tenons with a rasp to match the mortise. It’s quick and simple.
@@ENCurtis makes sense. Thanks for the reply!
Thoughts on the Harvey table saw? I’m looking to upgrade in the next couple months, and have gone between Harvey and SawStop. Thanks man!! Another needed video out here in this woodsphere! 🔥🔥
Harvey’s saw has been solid for me so far. A couple minor tweaks that I would make to it but nothing that changes it’s function or capacity. Overall I think it’s perfectly adequate for furniture-level work.
@@ENCurtis awesome thanks! I love the safety of the SawStop but it seems that you get more bang for your buck with Harvey outside of that.
I've got a Harvey. They work. If you want the cheaper option they are good. But you are definitely getting the cheaper option. After sales service has been literally non existent for me. My next saw, I'll avoid both saw stop and Harvey and buy a European made saw.
My thoughts on Harvey is more on how Chinese companies work with manufacturers. When you go to manufacture, you're forced to turn over all patents and designs to the government. After a while of manufacturing for you, they will then take the designs and start manufacturing it on their own, sticking it to the companies that actually developed and designed the products. That's what Harvey is. They've taken all the designs done by US and Euro companies and put their name on it.
Thanks for the content. I've a Harvey table saw and made complicated fences to fit around the aluminum fence. Embarrassed to say that I didn't think to remove all the fence substructure. Sorta goes with the point of the video. Keep it simple stupid. 👍🏼
Haha it happens to the best of us my man. No worries!
Love the tutorial. Love the music, and I especially appreciate your authenticity. Just subscribed and hit the bell.
Absolutely agree. There is nothing wrong with building a fancy jig out of Cocobolo and 5000 year old bog oak if that satisfies some personality trait. There is nothing wrong in sharpening your blades to 100,000 grit ( if that exists) if you want to shave in the reflection. It just isn’t necessary.
I build jigs all the time. Some are long term keepers and so I build them more substantially but only out of scraps. If it’s a jig for a one-off build, then I build them as strongly as I need to for that build and then scrap them.
Don’t beat yourself up on building jogs. They are a tool just like a saw or a screwdriver or a router. My tools have the scars of life on them but it doesn’t affect how they work. If your scraps have the odd screw hole or paint splash, then don’t worry, just carry on.
Allied to jigs, is this thing about the tool you use to keep your hands away from the saw blades. For me, there are just a few essentials:
- they have to be solid - but any timber over 12mm is going to be solid
- they have to be long enough to keep my hands far enough away
- they have to have the kind of hand grip that prevents my hands slipping
- they have to have a notch so that the timber to be cut sits nicely
For me, that’s it. I make mine out of scraps and each one is different because the scraps tend to be different. People who take hours to fashion theirs to a particular fashion are fine - I just have other things to do. People who sell expensive handles are just richer than you (now, that is).
Gauge blocks. I never came across these in woodworking until a couple of years ago. Then I saw them on YT. All by Woodpecker initially. I’ve never felt the need to have gauge blocks; I’ve always found a ruler to be fine - if I really want extra precision, then I use my vernier gauge. I could buy a set of engineer’s gauge blocks here in the UK for £200. That’s a lot of money but we’ll spent if you are…an engineer. Or I could buy the deluxe set of blocks designed for woodworkers from Woodpecker for $500 plus. That’s almost indecent to me. I don’t know if the YT channels who feature these blocks have bought them out of their hard-earned or not; I just don’t know. You can make up your on minds.
You can also make a cross cut sled using the fender as the guide, it’s pretty cool :)
Awsome, honest real life ,real world Bravo !!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I literally thought about this jig today. I've put it off, cuz I also have the Harvey Alpha tables, with the Ripmaster fence. Can't believe this showed up in my feed today. Can UA-cam now read my thoughts? Creepy
i'm thinking raised panels with this jig??
I've been contemplating upgrade my table saw. I like what I see and hear from Harvey. Since you had a SawStop why did you choose the Harvey.
In full disclosure, the provided me with this table saw. However for the money I think they make a solid saw.
@Encurtis the other jig you use for cutting on the other side of the fence is it made made from you? Is there a video of how to make on of this. It would be very useful even in a floor installer and not furniture maker.
Thanks for the very good content
The crosscut sled? There are many videos on that type of jig. I have an exceedingly simple one in the back catalogue.
@@ENCurtis yes the crosscut sled. It would be very useful to make one. I will search your back catalogue
Subscribed! Must ask though: if you're not using the old jig (or even if you are), why not rip a shim to fill the gap between the jig and fence so you can keep the old one?
Absolutely could have. And likely will at some point. But it wouldn’t have made for a very informative video 😂
@ENCurtis you're right about that, and earned a sub while at it 😄
Loving your approach. Simple and to the point.
What brand or type ear protection are you using??
I find the headsets over my glasses and safety glasses allows too much noise in and have been looking for a better option than foamie inserts.
I agree. These are from Isotunes and have been good for me for a few years now.
newbie question about tenon's if i were going for a bit of a brutal industrial kind of deal is there any reason you couldn't use the whole piece of wood as the tenon? (assuming the mortice piece is big enough to take it of course) i mean i know you wouldn't get any "shoulder" but does that matter when the strength comes from the tenon itself?
Using the whole piece of wood as the tenon? Sure, it just needs to be 1/3 the thickness of the material for maximum strength. That's the traditional way of constructing farm gates using mortice and tenon joints with driven dowels for example. Also fencing rails though posts etc.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you!
Of course!
Why did you change from a SawStop to a Harvey table saw?
I didn’t own the SawStop at my previous shop, so when I moved into this new space I had to outfit it with an appropriately powerful saw (the one I did own was not). Full disclosure, Harvey did provide me this saw. So it was less a choice of moving away from a SawStop and more the realities of a budget. They are both well made saws.
Seeing what Harvey did to Bridge City I can’t in good conscience buy anything from them.
Awesome jig brother 👊🏼
Thanks brother man!
@@ENCurtis absolutely!
So in your build it appears that the legs of the "main body" of the jig - not the face of the jig that you purposefully kept off the top of the saw - is actually resting on the saw's table top. You can clearly see that the bridging piece ("sill plate") between the two "legs" is proud of the main body of the fence. Is that correct?
I've seen other builds of similar jigs where the advice is to keep those two legs off the saw's top so they're not catching in the miter slots as you move the fence. In that case, presumably, you're really counting on the top of the fence being parallel to the top of the saw to ensure the face of the fence is vertical.
It seems to me the jig really should be referencing off the table top not the top of the remainder of the Harvey fence, as that's what you "square to", and just be careful when moving the fence with the jig attached.
You could have just added a couple threaded rods through the back of your current jig to make an adjustable jig to fit many tables 🤷♂️
Add a filler strip into your old jig and you'll have a working jig. That would have saved time, though the video would have been pretty short.😉
You’re absolutely right. And I thought about doing that. But that wouldn’t have helped anyone looking to build themselves a tenoning jig, so here we are 😎
I had this exact thought. 😂
Please use a blade guard and don’t endorse it’s removal !
@@PNH63, they aren't always practical, and usually just get in the way. Not even sure where mine is honestly. 🤔🤷♂️
nice Willie Wonka reference, thanks for the down to earth common sense approach.
One of the great underrated jokes in cinema history imo 😂
still using imperial are we?
3/4 or 1/2 ply for the jig?
Either will work. I used a combination of 3/4" for the body and 1/2" mdf for the fence.
Watching while I’m tinkering around and making a sheet sandpaper cutting jig 😂😂
Haha simple silly jigs can be a joy to make sometimes
Thanks Dude, down and dirty 👍
Useless to me since I don't have a workbench or table saw... But good stuff! I'm looking for those easy to use options for projects like desks and cabinets but without having a garage to work with.
Coffee slurping at the start of a video is peak hipster.
Talks shit about People who make fancy table saw jigs, proceeds to use a fancy table saw jig to make another table saw jig
Good video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Seems like you could have just as easily shimmed the old jig to fit... 🤔
I’m just happy you didn’t whip out a Festool domino
They certainly have their place, but not for everything.
But, but, we’re woodworkers. Complicated and over engineering is what we do best! 😂
😂😂 fair point!
Ummm... couldn't you have cut a "fill" piece to reduce the opening in the base of your original jig to fit the new fence??
Thatt's good advice.
👊👊
could you just add an internal filler on the back side of the existing tenon jig? instead of making a new one.
Sure could have. Would’ve made for a real short video though 😂
If speed and simplicity were in focus I would modify the existing jig, but I guess that would not do much for the thumbnail either. 😄
Good job though - ten thumbs up! 👍🏻
Wouldn’t make for a very long video either 😂
great video! crussshhhing it
Thanks brother man!!
Wow, works just like my tennon jig thats made of metal and rides in the T slots
But we dont need no jigs so lets make one. Just slap it together.
Good stu
ff. Thanks.
For sure!
Why the heck do you stand in the direction of the kickback? In germany, you would not get licensed when doing that.
lol europe. do they license riding bikes there?
Is that old Baltic Birch you already had or new, if new, where did you get it??
These are sheets I had on hand. Got them out in Lancaster, PA some time ago.
@@ENCurtis just checking😁 I have like 1 4x8x3/4 sheet left, saving it, not sure what to make with it but there hard to find, nobody seems to carry any with the situation over sea. Speaking of Lancaster, PA…I picked up a Yorkie pup from a breeder out there, interesting town. Thanks for the reply, I’ll have more questions about Hand Planers soon. Just a heads up, the Rockler in Mt.Laurel, NJ is having very good sale on exotic wood.
What possible feature could a Harvey tablesaw have that would justify replacing a Sawstop Other than sponsorship.
You are the best🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉😅
45 30 secondths. Wt actually f. 😂. All about the metric system. Cheers for the vid 👌
"...nice thumbnail" he says, just as baltic birch enters scene left opposite a rockler sled. :) But yes don't let do it all be the enemy of effective.
Great video but I don't get it, what was the April Fools part I didn't see it?
That I would cut tenons with a table saw jig instead of a pantorouter 😂😂
Add two toggle clamps and it’s complete
Agreed. A couple toggle clamps and that’s really all you need 👊
So a little green and safety out the door. I noticed first with StumpyNubs who promotes safety but got rid of his Sawstop for a Harvey. I still like him though I don’t consider his product reviews as honest
Great helpful realistic content, you're creating, I like it a lot. Please stop using the auto-focus of your camera. It fucks up your shots. It's more work, I know, but your ideas are valuable enough for the extra effort. Cheers!
You need to raise your table saw blade a few more inches. 😁😁
You don't need a jig.
1. Set the fence on the length of the tenon.
2. Set the hight of the blade on the depth of the shoulder
3. Move continuous fast youre wood from left to right and go slowly forward
4. Do that at all sides and you have youre tenon.
Another way to do this would be to use a miter saw
Mate,
To the existing jig, I would have Added a long, vertical piece with the correct height glued at under the existing top, and held against the metal rail, and a narrow long piece glued both sides and fitted between the existing and new vertical pieces at the bottom. Job done.
You know I'm gonna be saying "Pig on a Lipstick all day now"...
"speed tenon"? 🤔
It’s a brilliant little technique. Chris Becksvoort wrote and article about it years ago. Worth trying out.
I dunno guy... ongoing bashing of "you tubers" who aren't professionals was cool at first.. then you spend a ton of time on a jig, that only differs from the rooks in that couple small bells and whistles less.. like holes for clamps for example.... You are extremely good, and should spend less time knocking the rookies. I'll stop.
REALLY down and dirty would have been to shim the old one
You’re not wrong!
I prefer a simple jig and router
Ain’t nothing wrong with that 👊
👍👍👍👍
🤘🤘🤘
You are clearly unaware of the critical measurement of ‘ an Nat’s dicky’ which is what you refer to. Or you could go metric? Love what you do.
And instead of making a new one I would just fill the empty slot off the old one and continue using the already made jig
pausing at the 2min mark. Couldnt you have just added some filler blocking to take up space in old jig? ok back to the vid LOL
Absolutely! And it would've made for a very short video 😂
In Australia, that tiny gap would be referred to as "a bee's dick".
At the start you talk about keeping jigs simple and not worrying about the thumbnail...then you shape the support brackets instead of just making simple triangular brackets. 😂😂😂
Sure did. Because it’s far easier to clamp to a parallel surface than a slanted one.
@@ENCurtis You have a large flat surface to clamp to so not so sure it was necessary. Always fun to make them a bit prettier but it kind of incongruous with the idea expressed at the start. No big deal
....just made me laugh when I saw it.
@@jrumbel fair enough my man 🤙