Please explain installing a tub with a tiled wall surround in a basement with floating walls. The tub sits on the concrete floor. TWO questions... Does the top lip of the tub get screwed to the floating wall studs? The concrete backer board screws to the floating wall studs then gets tiled, is there a gap between the tiled wall board and the top deck of the tub?
@@timwhite8013 Wow - what an interesting question! I have never done this and can not claim to know how this is (or would be) done. With the tub setting on the concrete floor, screwing the lip to the floating wall studs would defeat the purpose of floating the walls in the first place. You need to provide a gap somewhere. One possibility is floating the walls from the floor rather than the ceiling - which is to say place the gap at the ceiling rather than the floor. This would mean hanging the ceiling below the gap which would reduce your ceiling height. Plus, you would need to frame the entire basement the same way. I have NO experience with doing this nor do I know if this would meet code. I have to believe installing tubs in basements with floating walls is a thing and that someone, somewhere has a solution. Good luck with this, I’d love to hear your solution.
@@JDillahead I think I understand. Some people add blocking between the studs - approximately at the midpoint of the stud - this could add some stability, strength and stiffness - though I suspect a minimal about - but may also minimize any twisting of the studs. If this is what would meant, I just have never done this - mainly because it didn't occur to me. I'm not convinced it necessary, but I don't see any harm.
Great video and well thought out layout! What was the reasoning for the bunk of studs in one location? It looks like a column of 2x’s to support a load but I wouldn’t think a floating wall is supporting any load. Also is there a reason for the multiple king studs around the window frames?
I know it looks like a LOT of 2x4s! I elected to add a stud at the end of each wall and on either side of the widows to accommodate hanging either shelves or cabinets - should the need ever arise. I realize it is overkill, but all things considered, I felt it was a small expense to ease my life in the future. Thank you!
Hi Kevin, great video we're planning on doing floating walls and this is going to help. One thing I can't figure out, is the rigid insulation beind the framing sitting on the floor? If the floor is expected to shift inches, will that compress and crack the rigid insulation behind the frame? We're using it as a vapour barrier so if it cracks moisture may get in. Should we leave 2 inches between the floor and the bottom of the rigid insulation? Any thoughts you have would be appreciated.
This is an interesting question - and the problem with floating walls in general. The need to leave a gap. I do not have enough experience with this to provide a good answer, but I have some thoughts. If you REALLY need to provide 2", the safe bet is to leave a 2" gap at the floor and accept the lack of vapor-barrier and insulation over the gap. If you leave NO gap, the foam board would compress 2" if the floor raises 2" but it would compress over the entire height of the foam board. The adhesive is not strong enough to overcome the force that would be applied. You could split the difference and leave a 1" gap. My "guess" is the foam-board would not crack, but I have NO experience or data to back that up. You could purchase a sheet and try some experiments - though it would take some work to test this! I suspect (again without knowing) that once compressed, the foam board would not return to its uncompressed state when and if the floor should go back down. In my case, I set the foam board on the floor, but did not attempt to trim to follow the contour of the floor, nor did I seal under the foam board. My thinking is that IF I ever have a leak, I want the water to show me where. Good luck with this - sorry I could not be of more help.
It's been 30 years since we did this, plus it was in combination with replacing the basement floor - so I can't provide a reasonable cost for the windows themselves. I suspect it will be a function of access, depth of excavation and your local economy. Good luck!
Just curious, did you build your walls with screws or nails? I saw the part where you used screws to attach to the joists, but I’m curious if you built the walls themselves with nails or screws. The floating wall thing seems like it puts more load on the fasteners on the top cap especially and I’m worried that if I build with nails they might pull out over time… I’d love to hear your thoughts.
I initially framed the walls using nails (16d coated sinkers). In addition to hanging the walls from the floor-joists, I also re-attached the wall studs to the top-plates using construction screws. I covered this at some point in my video. Thank you for posting!
Did your builder install basement blankets on your unfinished basement walls? If so, was there a reason you replaced them with the hard foam insulation?
No - our house was built in 1979, the walls have been bare ever since then. As such, I have no experience with these blankets, but if I had them I likely would have left them in-place.
If you mean between the bottom of the drywall and the floor - I nominally left 1/2”. Now, from what I learned - this gap is typically much larger - on the order of 3”! It depends on your specific soil condition and building codes.
I left 1/8" gap under the jambs. Some jurisdictions require multiple inches of float (I've seen 3") - I don't know how you can leave this large of a gap under the jambs - or doors themselves. In my case - I don't expect to see any more movement, but if these gaps should close-up, I can go back and trim the bottoms of the jambs.
That's an excellent question! Often, soils are expansive. Here in Colorado,our soil contains Bentonite which will expand when wet. Though I answered this in my previous video: "Finishing My Basement - Floating Wall - Base Plates" - ua-cam.com/video/KeHB36PuwJQ/v-deo.html. I neglected to mention this in this video. I'll add some text to the description. Thank you for the question!
This guys builds super sturdy compared to what I see on other youtube videos
"Anything worth doing is worth overdoing!"
Good Content and Production value. Great ideas for thorough planning.
Thank you very much! I appreciate the feedback.
Thanks for posting this. Will be building walls tomorrow and will use you some of your pointers.
You're welcome - I'm happy to hear you found it helpful!
These are great, and I'm excited to see the next ones in the series.
Thank you for the kind reply! I plan on posting the next steps.
Please explain installing a tub with a tiled wall surround in a basement with floating walls. The tub sits on the concrete floor. TWO questions...
Does the top lip of the tub get screwed to the floating wall studs?
The concrete backer board screws to the floating wall studs then gets tiled, is there a gap between the tiled wall board and the top deck of the tub?
@@timwhite8013 Wow - what an interesting question!
I have never done this and can not claim to know how this is (or would be) done.
With the tub setting on the concrete floor, screwing the lip to the floating wall studs would defeat the purpose of floating the walls in the first place. You need to provide a gap somewhere.
One possibility is floating the walls from the floor rather than the ceiling - which is to say place the gap at the ceiling rather than the floor. This would mean hanging the ceiling below the gap which would reduce your ceiling height. Plus, you would need to frame the entire basement the same way.
I have NO experience with doing this nor do I know if this would meet code. I have to believe installing tubs in basements with floating walls is a thing and that someone, somewhere has a solution.
Good luck with this, I’d love to hear your solution.
Great craft!
Thank you!
I’m learning lots from your videos. My only question.. Why no blocking through studs?
I'm sorry - I don't understand your question - specifically "blocking 'through' the studs". Can you be more specific?
@@KevinTaberski sorry, horizontal blocking? Not sure the proper lingo.
@@JDillahead I think I understand. Some people add blocking between the studs - approximately at the midpoint of the stud - this could add some stability, strength and stiffness - though I suspect a minimal about - but may also minimize any twisting of the studs. If this is what would meant, I just have never done this - mainly because it didn't occur to me. I'm not convinced it necessary, but I don't see any harm.
Great video and well thought out layout! What was the reasoning for the bunk of studs in one location? It looks like a column of 2x’s to support a load but I wouldn’t think a floating wall is supporting any load. Also is there a reason for the multiple king studs around the window frames?
I know it looks like a LOT of 2x4s! I elected to add a stud at the end of each wall and on either side of the widows to accommodate hanging either shelves or cabinets - should the need ever arise. I realize it is overkill, but all things considered, I felt it was a small expense to ease my life in the future.
Thank you!
Hi Kevin, great video we're planning on doing floating walls and this is going to help. One thing I can't figure out, is the rigid insulation beind the framing sitting on the floor? If the floor is expected to shift inches, will that compress and crack the rigid insulation behind the frame? We're using it as a vapour barrier so if it cracks moisture may get in. Should we leave 2 inches between the floor and the bottom of the rigid insulation? Any thoughts you have would be appreciated.
This is an interesting question - and the problem with floating walls in general. The need to leave a gap.
I do not have enough experience with this to provide a good answer, but I have some thoughts.
If you REALLY need to provide 2", the safe bet is to leave a 2" gap at the floor and accept the lack of vapor-barrier and insulation over the gap.
If you leave NO gap, the foam board would compress 2" if the floor raises 2" but it would compress over the entire height of the foam board. The adhesive is not strong enough to overcome the force that would be applied.
You could split the difference and leave a 1" gap.
My "guess" is the foam-board would not crack, but I have NO experience or data to back that up. You could purchase a sheet and try some experiments - though it would take some work to test this! I suspect (again without knowing) that once compressed, the foam board would not return to its uncompressed state when and if the floor should go back down.
In my case, I set the foam board on the floor, but did not attempt to trim to follow the contour of the floor, nor did I seal under the foam board. My thinking is that IF I ever have a leak, I want the water to show me where.
Good luck with this - sorry I could not be of more help.
Your egress window are great! What did they cost
It's been 30 years since we did this, plus it was in combination with replacing the basement floor - so I can't provide a reasonable cost for the windows themselves. I suspect it will be a function of access, depth of excavation and your local economy.
Good luck!
Just curious, did you build your walls with screws or nails? I saw the part where you used screws to attach to the joists, but I’m curious if you built the walls themselves with nails or screws. The floating wall thing seems like it puts more load on the fasteners on the top cap especially and I’m worried that if I build with nails they might pull out over time… I’d love to hear your thoughts.
I initially framed the walls using nails (16d coated sinkers). In addition to hanging the walls from the floor-joists, I also re-attached the wall studs to the top-plates using construction screws. I covered this at some point in my video.
Thank you for posting!
Did your builder install basement blankets on your unfinished basement walls?
If so, was there a reason you replaced them with the hard foam insulation?
No - our house was built in 1979, the walls have been bare ever since then. As such, I have no experience with these blankets, but if I had them I likely would have left them in-place.
Whats the gap you leave for drywall? I have s 2×4 wall with one green treated bottom plate.
If you mean between the bottom of the drywall and the floor - I nominally left 1/2”. Now, from what I learned - this gap is typically much larger - on the order of 3”! It depends on your specific soil condition and building codes.
For your door opening do you leave a gap at the bottom for the door jamb?
I left 1/8" gap under the jambs. Some jurisdictions require multiple inches of float (I've seen 3") - I don't know how you can leave this large of a gap under the jambs - or doors themselves.
In my case - I don't expect to see any more movement, but if these gaps should close-up, I can go back and trim the bottoms of the jambs.
@kevintaberski4249 Thanks for the reply
@@double_A_RON_ You're welcome!
Why are floating walls required?
That's an excellent question!
Often, soils are expansive. Here in Colorado,our soil contains Bentonite which will expand when wet.
Though I answered this in my previous video:
"Finishing My Basement - Floating Wall - Base Plates" - ua-cam.com/video/KeHB36PuwJQ/v-deo.html.
I neglected to mention this in this video. I'll add some text to the description.
Thank you for the question!