I have to confess to giggling like a maniac when you had it all running and everything engaged and disengaged so beautifully. So clever. I love how you say "it fits together...of course". That "of course" bit is your gift.
"Sometimes even I get lucky." A professional golfer had made a difficult shot and someone commented about how lucky he had been to make it. The pro replied that he had noticed that the more he practiced, the luckier he got.
Excellent job, as usual. I am one of your weaver since 5 years ago, I have seen all of your videos and some, more than ones. I have a little home shop, I have been learning by watching you and several good gays doing things, Tank you for teaching others.
Don't ya love it when a plan comes together? Great alignment! That boring tool is fantastic. Nicely detailed project. Looking forward to the continuation. ~ Cheers.
I have had the same project on my to do list for about two years because I haven't had time and inspiration to work out how to engage and disengage the drive , you just did it for me ! I also like your gear change levers - mine are plastic and horrible . Excellent video !
To those uninitiated out there, like I am, denatured alcohol ( had to look it up on Google ) is what is commonly know in England and Australia as Methylated Spirit or Meths for short. In Australia it is a clear liquid but in England it is coloured Purple to stop the 'Wino's' drinking it as it is poisonous. Hope it helps in knowing this.
Thanks for this! As a learner, I've spent a lot of cycles figuring out how I can more precisely center register my part on the table, so that my resulting radius will lead into the adjacent edge precisely at the tangent (and also not accidentally over-rotate and cut into the part, darn it!) Thanks for the Pro-Tip on just avoiding that mess altogether, it changed my thinking!
Very cleaver german engineering as always, I have very similar bench top machines to yours (minus your envy inducing shaper) and this just adds to the list of improvements I need to make to them, thank you for sharing your time, effort, and ideas with us
I'm going through your older videos, I like the coupling you made I will copy that for a future project. Also about the sticky residue from soluble oil, I had that problem too with commercial stuff. But when I mixed Ballistol with water to make my own cutting fluid, it worked much better and hardly left any residue at all.
It does really help against galling, without the oil film, for example if you later need to paint or glue the parts. Any marker lines are wiped out, of course.
Do you see any rust on Stefan's table? The man puts copper nappies under anything that touches his precious machine, I doubt he would neglect it to the point of rusting. Alcohol doesn't magically vanish oils, it's just a solvent. After the alcohol evaporates the same amount of oil is still there. To remove oil with it you have to remove the alcohol before it evaporates (use enough to let it run off, or wipe it off with a towel). If you clean and oil your machine regularly it really won't be a problem, but do use Kerosene instead if you are at all uncomfortable with this. I just like the no-mess, non-stink, non-poisonous properties of alcohol for aluminium.
If you have watched the video you would know the idea is to keep the mess to a minimum. The amount of alcohol used is so small it never even touches the ways. Water is not a valid comparison, because alcohol evaporates quickly and doesn't stick around to cause rust or require cleanup, again that was explained in the video. Regarding health and safety, well, kerosene is known to be toxic, even the fumes. Ethanol is not (unless you drink it in large quantities of course, which causes more harm than all other drugs). Look you can do what you want, if you try it you will see alcohol works fine for aluminium. If you don't want to use it then don't, but the concerns you raised are really non-issues for me and I'll continue to use it. It's not something Stefan invented either, it's use with aluminium is fairly widespread, like it or not, it doesn't matter.
That's only in America where poisoning people is apparently seen as the lesser evil compared to tax evasion, so they put petrol and other crap into the denatured ethanol. Here in Europe you can get fairly clean ethanol that only contains a tiny quantity of denatonium benzoate to make it too bitter to drink. But hey, I'm not the one suggesting the use of straight 100% hydrocarbons instead of alcohol possibly denatured with a fairly small percentage ;-).
Nice job Stefan. That sliding key idea is inspired, I'm going to have to remember that one. Your boring head always gets my vote too, the Wohlhauper is a fine piece of German engineering for sure, NeilsMachines currently has one in a W20 shank which is tempting me but it's a price which would need some serious consideration...and then I would need the Schaublin ISO30 adaptor for my mill, my wife might divorce me. Keep up the good work, a Happy New Year to you sir.
The big lesson here for me is "improve what you've got,and make the best with what you have.Even an old dog such as I can learn new tricks when I pry open my mind-box with a crow bar.Thank's again.
Very nicely built :) Only addition that comes to my mind: it would be very nice, if the clutch bar would snap in the end positions. All that you would have to make would be two notches in the slot for the key, and a blind hole in the key were you can put some rubber or small spring and a small bearing ball. Just to prevent engaging or loosening the feed accidentally :) But it propably works well enough without that.
Great project Stefan. If that key was replaced with 4 ball bearings that collapse or expand into the shaft when the pin is pushed it might engage quicker and smoother. Similar to a Hodaka motorcycle gearbox lay shaft.
Hello, as I mentioned on one of click spring's videos it would be nice whenever someone gives a thumbs down they also had to give a reason so that everyone could know and possibly understand why. In my opinion this is faultless work and excellently presented, long may it continue . Thanks
I don't care much for single thumb downs, that can realy just be a single person that did not like the video. Maybe they got here because of youtubes video-recommendation and didnt like the content at all. I am fine with that :D What worries me, when I get a high number of thumbs down in a short period. Then I know that it is some type of content that only a smaller part of my viewers are interested in.
Hi Stefan, love your videos mate, very inspiring. I'm looking to put together a small home machine shop myself as I already have a small lathe and a decent drill press, and I'll be looking at a small milling machine later in the year. However, another reason for my comment was about the drilling of deep holes that your tailstock can't drill in one pass. On some old large lathes I've used in the past, you were able to attach the tailstock to the saddle so you can drag the tailstock along, as they were too heavy to move by hand. We'll, by doing that, you can effectively drill any depth hole and still have use of your dro for accurate drill depths. Maybe look into it and let me know. I'll likely be modding my lathe with this in the near future. Keep up the great vids mate, all the best.
Kerosene is popular for machining aluminum in the usa, evaporates more slowly and lubricates a bit better than alcohol. For heavy cutting or tapping add 10% oil, this will leave oil at the end but it is less mess than sticky soluble cutting fluid residue.
Heh Stefan, well done in all the facets of the work and editing, lots of thought and patience and skills involved. Not sure why I didn't see a file used?????. as you know My Mill Drill is similar and if I didn't have two turret mills I would be plagiarising your ideas. Excellent result. you've certainly made some real improvements to the mill over time!. Enjoy the transition into the New Year, and have a safe and healthy 2017. Your friend from afar!
Great job as always Stefan. You mentioned belt tension, and if you need more you were going to slot the motor mounting for adjustment. Do not do that, add a jockey pulley to take up any slack, the same as they do on car belts. You may need to modify your cover with a slot to allow for the pull y to protrude through, then add a small sub cover to protect you from the moving pulley and stop dirt getting into the belt slots. How are you getting on with the Mk 2 centering microscope ?
Excellent performance Stefan! You can add a cheap PWM module to control the elektromotor speed... It has a potentiometer with a build in power switch as well (ebay: Mini DC 5A Motor PWM Speed Controller 3V-35V Speed Control Switch LED Dimmer Top).
Great work as ever. I can never quite work out whether you are inspiring or terrifying - compulsive viewing anyway. A couple of things I don't understand: Does that sort of belt never stretch? What stops the sprocket from moving axially on the shaft?
That's really trick. The hardest part for me would be milling that little slot in the shaft. I can never figure out the feed rate for those small endmills. Now you can bore things!
Is torque low enough on the motor that if you fail to disengage before reaching the end of the quill stroke it doesn't break the belt? A very nice improvement for sure!
hehe, bcbloc02 being the hardest critic as always ;) ;) good call tho, if thats the case you might want to throw in some kind of electronic stall detection (hall sensor, ripple detect, whatever)
that would work, but it has a lot of disadvantages (cables around the machine, moving parts in the circuit, wear, corrosion, ...) the hall sensor is actually the most reliable and precise way to electrically determine the rpm and exact position of a spinning part. oh btw, i just watched part 2 and im surprised how he solved that very issue... ;)
What a clean addition to your mill. Nicely done...George Thomas would be proud. :) Did you consider switching directions so that it is pull to activate? Seems more logical...perhaps not enough room for the key behind the large pulley?
My name is Robert Stiene, I am a retired chemical worker, and that use for Isopropyl alcohol is a new one on me, what is the concentration of the alcohol that you use? We used 90% (or anhydrous) concentrations, and we had occasional flash fires. Naturally we were expecting them and reacted the way we were trained. We were using it to degrease and reduce the moisture in mixing equipment.
Huh, interesting. The worm gear on an identical machine that i helped a friend service (bearings got stuck and i have an inside bearing puller kit) was brass (an alloy more than likely, quite hard under a normal file). Makes me wonder which is original, tho, this one is more likely to be original, and the brass one, a fix.
Great idea Stephan. What brand mill do you have? I am wanting to buy a small bench mill but prefer a very good quality one and I am sure you have the best. Thanks Terry from Texas
Hi Terry his mill is the same as the grizzly g0761. It sold for $1995 with a power feed in the 2014 catalog. $350 more than a round column mill drill. Being that the head movement is on dovetails and can tilt 45 degrees it's not a bad deal.
Think about how much money you can save on tooling if you convert that little mill to CNC. You could have done that whole job with a 1/8 inch endmill if you wanted to.
Stefan, Don't you need some sort of collar to keep the timing sprocket from sliding over and engaging by itself? Perhaps a clamp shaft collar with an oversized keyway? Also the pushrod needs some sort of detent to hold it in/out. Or, is this all in part 2?
Hi Stefan I'm not going to ask where you obtained the motor, but could you tell me some details (brand, model etc) so that I can do a search for it or something similar? Thank you. I thoroughly enjoy your videos :-) Kind regards Peter
Dear Stefan222, Nicely done and edited.All the process and narration came in the right time without taking away or putting in too much just like Mrpete222 and Tony222.However you have a lot of bass in your voice.I'm hearing some reverberation too.Will you consider using a clip mic in future? I have a few more questions. a) I never seen a boring tool used in such way before(widening a hole).What is that boring tool?Are all boring tool like this? Tell us about.If you had cover the topic.Share link. b) You voice sounds louder than both your lathe and mill.Are both of your machines that quiet and smooth as we are hearing it? c) Your tools looks fantastically clean.Do you have OCD? haha you can ignore this one. Greetings from Malaysia.
Greetings to Malasysia, Thank you :) I just visited a friend who is a professional camera/sound guy - And we did some testing with a clip mic and a wireless transmitter and the improvement is incredible. I think thats what I am going to do in future, it is some investment, but I think improving the sound will be a good thing... a) Thats a Wohlhaupter UPA1 boring head with one of my home made boring bars. It features the autofeed and a nice sturdy construction. I showed it a few times in use, but never took it apart (never will ;) ) to show the internals b) No, while the lathe is very quiet the mill makes a bunch of noise. I go trough some effort to edit all the machine noice down, so I dont blow out the ears of my viewers :) c) I dont know if its OCD, but I cant stand dirty machinery.. :D
Would this be considered a good mill for a beginner and also is it as versatile as say a Bridgeport?? Any input would be much appreciated lol I’m in the process of sourcing machines to put together a badass hobby machine shop! Content soon to come!
Coole Idee! Habe vor paar tagen deinen Channel Entdeckt und finde eigentlich alle deine videos informativ! Wie hast du denn Angefangen? kommst du aus der Industrie? Ich frag mich immer die die Leute zu so geilen Werkstätten kommen. Ich beginne gerade meine Ausbildung zum Uhrmacher, und träume leider nur von Equipment an dem ich basteln kann. ;) viele grüße auf Deutsch!
Your work is very inspiring to look at meine lieber freunde .Greeat and good wishes for your future from Alistair Der Alter Schotter. Beautiful workmanship you are eine Kunstler. LOL Alistair Aus Schottland
That boring & facing head would be a German made Wohlhaupter. I don't believe there made anymore and you have to watch buying used ones since with some models the taper shank can't be changed to fit whatever taper your spindle happens to be. Sorry but I don't know what models had fixed or had tool shanks that could be changed.
Beautifully executed as always.
A real pleasure to watch your ideas come to fruition.
I have to confess to giggling like a maniac when you had it all running and everything engaged and disengaged so beautifully. So clever. I love how you say "it fits together...of course". That "of course" bit is your gift.
"Sometimes even I get lucky." A professional golfer had made a difficult shot and someone commented about how lucky he had been to make it. The pro replied that he had noticed that the more he practiced, the luckier he got.
Excellent job, as usual. I am one of your weaver since 5 years ago, I have seen all of your videos and some, more than ones. I have a little home shop, I have been learning by watching you and several good gays doing things, Tank you for teaching others.
Don't ya love it when a plan comes together? Great alignment! That boring tool is fantastic. Nicely detailed project. Looking forward to the continuation. ~ Cheers.
I can't believe I'm only getting a notification now that 2 or new videos are published. Liked it already, now I do the watching.
Very well thought out Stefan! Always happy to see new videos from you!
Very informative video showing real ingenuity. Well done. a good job. from Auistralia.
I have had the same project on my to do list for about two years because I haven't had time and inspiration to work out how to engage and disengage the drive , you just did it for me !
I also like your gear change levers - mine are plastic and horrible .
Excellent video !
Haha, those gear levers - My machine hat round knobs which where bad to turn, so I ordered some proper levers from Norelem :D
To those uninitiated out there, like I am, denatured alcohol ( had to look it up on Google ) is what is commonly know in England and Australia as Methylated Spirit or Meths for short. In Australia it is a clear liquid but in England it is coloured Purple to stop the 'Wino's' drinking it as it is poisonous. Hope it helps in knowing this.
Purple in NZ , But they still drink it
@@bbbnz50 Dunno why turning it purple makes it less drinkable. Those dumb enough to drink it would probably just think its grape flavored lol
Thanks for this! As a learner, I've spent a lot of cycles figuring out how I can more precisely center register my part on the table, so that my resulting radius will lead into the adjacent edge precisely at the tangent (and also not accidentally over-rotate and cut into the part, darn it!) Thanks for the Pro-Tip on just avoiding that mess altogether, it changed my thinking!
Very cleaver german engineering as always, I have very similar bench top machines to yours (minus your envy inducing shaper) and this just adds to the list of improvements I need to make to them, thank you for sharing your time, effort, and ideas with us
Unsticktivity! Love it. Great video.
A very elegant solution Stephan.
I'm going through your older videos, I like the coupling you made I will copy that for a future project. Also about the sticky residue from soluble oil, I had that problem too with commercial stuff. But when I mixed Ballistol with water to make my own cutting fluid, it worked much better and hardly left any residue at all.
Great project. Really like the tip about the denatured alcohol on aluminum. Have a great New Year Stefan.
It does really help against galling, without the oil film, for example if you later need to paint or glue the parts.
Any marker lines are wiped out, of course.
Do you see any rust on Stefan's table? The man puts copper nappies under anything that touches his precious machine, I doubt he would neglect it to the point of rusting.
Alcohol doesn't magically vanish oils, it's just a solvent. After the alcohol evaporates the same amount of oil is still there. To remove oil with it you have to remove the alcohol before it evaporates (use enough to let it run off, or wipe it off with a towel). If you clean and oil your machine regularly it really won't be a problem, but do use Kerosene instead if you are at all uncomfortable with this.
I just like the no-mess, non-stink, non-poisonous properties of alcohol for aluminium.
If you have watched the video you would know the idea is to keep the mess to a minimum. The amount of alcohol used is so small it never even touches the ways.
Water is not a valid comparison, because alcohol evaporates quickly and doesn't stick around to cause rust or require cleanup, again that was explained in the video.
Regarding health and safety, well, kerosene is known to be toxic, even the fumes. Ethanol is not (unless you drink it in large quantities of course, which causes more harm than all other drugs).
Look you can do what you want, if you try it you will see alcohol works fine for aluminium. If you don't want to use it then don't, but the concerns you raised are really non-issues for me and I'll continue to use it.
It's not something Stefan invented either, it's use with aluminium is fairly widespread, like it or not, it doesn't matter.
That's only in America where poisoning people is apparently seen as the lesser evil compared to tax evasion, so they put petrol and other crap into the denatured ethanol. Here in Europe you can get fairly clean ethanol that only contains a tiny quantity of denatonium benzoate to make it too bitter to drink.
But hey, I'm not the one suggesting the use of straight 100% hydrocarbons instead of alcohol possibly denatured with a fairly small percentage ;-).
stefantrethan in GB it is called 'methylated spirit,', because it has Methyl Alcohol in it to make u go blind if you drink it!!
Brilliant, inspiring project. "...you can't make this up..." agreed :)
That is a very clever engagement mechanism Stefan. Thanks
Nice job Stefan. That sliding key idea is inspired, I'm going to have to remember that one. Your boring head always gets my vote too, the Wohlhauper is a fine piece of German engineering for sure, NeilsMachines currently has one in a W20 shank which is tempting me but it's a price which would need some serious consideration...and then I would need the Schaublin ISO30 adaptor for my mill, my wife might divorce me. Keep up the good work, a Happy New Year to you sir.
Great job on the power feed Stefan looks like it works good!
Man that boring head is stunningly beautiful.
Super great work Stefan , Enjoyed ! On to part 2 for me .. Thumbs up man..
The big lesson here for me is "improve what you've got,and make the best with what you have.Even an old dog such as I can learn new tricks when I pry open my mind-box with a crow bar.Thank's again.
Slotting those counterbores was a good call.
Beautiful piece of work Stefan. Thank you.
Thanks for sharing. Very nice solution on the keyway. I really enjoy the manual machining tips. All the best for the new year.
Wunderbar! That's about the Deutsch I recall from 9th or 10 grade class.
great addition to this type of mill
Think you could play with the power supply set up and use it for power tapping?
great idea with the sliding key. have a Good New Year ,look forward to some more interesting projects
Outstanding work and design.
Looks like we guesed right about the timing sprocket. Very neatly done
Another great idea, Stefan !
Brian
Very nicely built :)
Only addition that comes to my mind: it would be very nice, if the clutch bar would snap in the end positions. All that you would have to make would be two notches in the slot for the key, and a blind hole in the key were you can put some rubber or small spring and a small bearing ball. Just to prevent engaging or loosening the feed accidentally :)
But it propably works well enough without that.
Great work Stefan. Thanks for sharing. Have a happy new year.
Great project Stefan. If that key was replaced with 4 ball bearings that collapse or expand into the shaft when the pin is pushed it might engage quicker and smoother. Similar to a Hodaka motorcycle gearbox lay shaft.
Hello, as I mentioned on one of click spring's videos it would be nice whenever someone gives a thumbs down they also had to give a reason so that everyone could know and possibly understand why. In my opinion this is faultless work and excellently presented, long may it continue . Thanks
I don't care much for single thumb downs, that can realy just be a single person that did not like the video. Maybe they got here because of youtubes video-recommendation and didnt like the content at all. I am fine with that :D
What worries me, when I get a high number of thumbs down in a short period. Then I know that it is some type of content that only a smaller part of my viewers are interested in.
+Stefan Gotteswinter But would you not like to know the reason?
Beautiful job, simple design.
Nicely done! Your explaning of tradecraft is super useful. cheers!
You are one seriously clever dude! Great video!
Hi Stefan, love your videos mate, very inspiring. I'm looking to put together a small home machine shop myself as I already have a small lathe and a decent drill press, and I'll be looking at a small milling machine later in the year. However, another reason for my comment was about the drilling of deep holes that your tailstock can't drill in one pass. On some old large lathes I've used in the past, you were able to attach the tailstock to the saddle so you can drag the tailstock along, as they were too heavy to move by hand. We'll, by doing that, you can effectively drill any depth hole and still have use of your dro for accurate drill depths. Maybe look into it and let me know. I'll likely be modding my lathe with this in the near future. Keep up the great vids mate, all the best.
Kerosene is popular for machining aluminum in the usa, evaporates more slowly and lubricates a bit better than alcohol.
For heavy cutting or tapping add 10% oil, this will leave oil at the end but it is less mess than sticky soluble cutting fluid residue.
Heh Stefan, well done in all the facets of the work and editing, lots of thought and patience and skills involved. Not sure why I didn't see a file used?????. as you know My Mill Drill is similar and if I didn't have two turret mills I would be plagiarising your ideas. Excellent result. you've certainly made some real improvements to the mill over time!. Enjoy the transition into the New Year, and have a safe and healthy 2017. Your friend from afar!
When you are laughing about the bearing brand is GOLD! lol
14:20 - not shocked from Stefan the king of "I only ream holes to final dimension regardless of how critical they are, or not...."
Very nice addition, Happy New Year!!
Realy cool idea for upgrade :D and real nice boring hed!
Great job as always Stefan. You mentioned belt tension, and if you need more you were going to slot the motor mounting for adjustment. Do not do that, add a jockey pulley to take up any slack, the same as they do on car belts. You may need to modify your cover with a slot to allow for the pull y to protrude through, then add a small sub cover to protect you from the moving pulley and stop dirt getting into the belt slots. How are you getting on with the Mk 2 centering microscope ?
Now that's a nice Pinolenvorschub!
Excellent performance Stefan!
You can add a cheap PWM module to control the elektromotor speed... It has a potentiometer with a build in power switch as well (ebay: Mini DC 5A Motor PWM Speed Controller 3V-35V Speed Control Switch LED Dimmer Top).
Very nice work.
Great work as ever. I can never quite work out whether you are inspiring or terrifying - compulsive viewing anyway. A couple of things I don't understand: Does that sort of belt never stretch? What stops the sprocket from moving axially on the shaft?
That's really trick. The hardest part for me would be milling that little slot in the shaft. I can never figure out the feed rate for those small endmills. Now you can bore things!
As usually a good job, and entertaining to watch, but I'm wondering... don't the big gear need some kind of lubrication when it is freewheeling ?
Is torque low enough on the motor that if you fail to disengage before reaching the end of the quill stroke it doesn't break the belt? A very nice improvement for sure!
hehe, bcbloc02 being the hardest critic as always ;) ;) good call tho, if thats the case you might want to throw in some kind of electronic stall detection (hall sensor, ripple detect, whatever)
that would work, but it has a lot of disadvantages (cables around the machine, moving parts in the circuit, wear, corrosion, ...) the hall sensor is actually the most reliable and precise way to electrically determine the rpm and exact position of a spinning part. oh btw, i just watched part 2 and im surprised how he solved that very issue... ;)
How about setting a max current to control the torque?
Stefan would never let that happen. Never.
What a clean addition to your mill. Nicely done...George Thomas would be proud. :)
Did you consider switching directions so that it is pull to activate? Seems more logical...perhaps not enough room for the key behind the large pulley?
Excellent, thanks for taking the time to share. Merry new year ;)
stefan very nice work.
Why put the motor screws at 12, 3, 6 and 9 instead of 1030, 130, 430 and 730? Your fix looked great anyways, as always Stefan!
Well done
Great project and production Stefan. That Old Black Magic, by Louie Prima and Keely Smith, before your time though. Do we get another dial build?
Very nice! this is a great solution
Inventive,concise
That is a really great project. I like the sliding keyway, very clever.
I was surprised, on stripping down my 40 year old Chinese mill, that the bearings were Japanese. And still available.
My name is Robert Stiene,
I am a retired chemical worker, and that use for Isopropyl
alcohol is a new one on me, what is the concentration of the alcohol that you
use? We used 90% (or anhydrous) concentrations, and we had occasional flash
fires. Naturally we were expecting them and reacted the way we were trained. We
were using it to degrease and reduce the moisture in mixing equipment.
Huh, interesting. The worm gear on an identical machine that i helped a friend service (bearings got stuck and i have an inside bearing puller kit) was brass (an alloy more than likely, quite hard under a normal file). Makes me wonder which is original, tho, this one is more likely to be original, and the brass one, a fix.
Stefan, when you will be trolling Old Tony? ))
Great idea Stephan. What brand mill do you have? I am wanting to buy a small bench mill but prefer a very good quality one and I am sure you have the best. Thanks Terry from Texas
Hi Terry his mill is the same as the grizzly g0761. It sold for $1995 with a power feed in the 2014 catalog. $350 more than a round column mill drill. Being that the head movement is on dovetails and can tilt 45 degrees it's not a bad deal.
What keeps the bottom toothed pulley from moving forward on the worm shaft, like when the key is retracted? I'm guessing the belt retains the pulley.
How do you keep the gear from sliding on the shaft when engaging and disengaging?
Stefan, How about motor reversal switch along with speed control?
Super build/video/discussion/instruction
Regular isopropanol works very well also, now that is a very trick boring head, may I ask where did you get it?
Think about how much money you can save on tooling if you convert that little mill to CNC. You could have done that whole job with a 1/8 inch endmill if you wanted to.
تعديل إله حديثه ومتطورة بما يتناسب مع عمله والشغلة المطلوبة
وذلك أيضا لا يتعارض مع أفكار المصنع
Stefan,
Don't you need some sort of collar to keep the timing sprocket from sliding over and engaging by itself? Perhaps a clamp shaft collar with an oversized keyway? Also the pushrod needs some sort of detent to hold it in/out. Or, is this all in part 2?
More than likely the dial once it's reinstalled will prevent the toothed gear wheel from moving out and engaging the key.
Two thumbs up!
Hi Stefan
I'm not going to ask where you obtained the motor, but could you tell me some details (brand, model etc) so that I can do a search for it or something similar?
Thank you.
I thoroughly enjoy your videos :-)
Kind regards
Peter
That boring head is black magic
What is this beautiful thing of a boring head you are using?
Why exactly is it bad to have steel running against aluminium (12:20)? And why choose bronze instead of let's say brass? Thanks in advance!
The Aluminium will gall
now that is cool.
Dear Stefan222,
Nicely done and edited.All the process and narration came in the right time without taking away or putting in too much just like Mrpete222 and Tony222.However you have a lot of bass in your voice.I'm hearing some reverberation too.Will you consider using a clip mic in future?
I have a few more questions.
a) I never seen a boring tool used in such way before(widening a hole).What is that boring tool?Are all boring tool like this? Tell us about.If you had cover the topic.Share link.
b) You voice sounds louder than both your lathe and mill.Are both of your machines that quiet and smooth as we are hearing it?
c) Your tools looks fantastically clean.Do you have OCD? haha you can ignore this one.
Greetings from Malaysia.
Greetings to Malasysia,
Thank you :)
I just visited a friend who is a professional camera/sound guy - And we did some testing with a clip mic and a wireless transmitter and the improvement is incredible. I think thats what I am going to do in future, it is some investment, but I think improving the sound will be a good thing...
a) Thats a Wohlhaupter UPA1 boring head with one of my home made boring bars. It features the autofeed and a nice sturdy construction. I showed it a few times in use, but never took it apart (never will ;) ) to show the internals
b) No, while the lathe is very quiet the mill makes a bunch of noise. I go trough some effort to edit all the machine noice down, so I dont blow out the ears of my viewers :)
c) I dont know if its OCD, but I cant stand dirty machinery.. :D
that's great Stefan.4 thumbs up!
Would this be considered a good mill for a beginner and also is it as versatile as say a Bridgeport?? Any input would be much appreciated lol I’m in the process of sourcing machines to put together a badass hobby machine shop! Content soon to come!
the cleaning brush is growing smaller and smaller... =D
I've always heard that jig plate machines terribly, but it looks like it machines just as any cast aluminum.
just your opinion. i can mabe get hold of a deckel fp3, not the best condition, but its reasonable price. do you have any experianc e with htem?
Really interesting project! How did you work out the correct distance between the 2 pulleys?
Well done!
Awesome Great Job
i wonder if Tony can read them hand singles
Coole Idee! Habe vor paar tagen deinen Channel Entdeckt und finde eigentlich alle deine videos informativ! Wie hast du denn Angefangen? kommst du aus der Industrie? Ich frag mich immer die die Leute zu so geilen Werkstätten kommen. Ich beginne gerade meine Ausbildung zum Uhrmacher, und träume leider nur von Equipment an dem ich basteln kann. ;) viele grüße auf Deutsch!
good work!
Hola buena noche q referencia es el moto reductor gracias
Do you also use denatured alcohol on the lathe when machining aluminum?
Your work is very inspiring to look at meine lieber freunde .Greeat and good wishes for your future from Alistair Der Alter Schotter. Beautiful workmanship you are eine Kunstler. LOL Alistair Aus Schottland
How about putting a encoder on the motor and then you could have DRO on the quill.
Nicht schlecht, aber eine Aktivierungen des Antriebs bei gezogenen Stift wäre von der Bedinlogik her noch besser.
Brilliant application, I have a box of those gear motors. Do they sell that boring head any longer? if so what brand and model?
That boring & facing head would be a German made Wohlhaupter. I don't believe there made anymore and you have to watch buying used ones since with some models the taper shank can't be changed to fit whatever taper your spindle happens to be. Sorry but I don't know what models had fixed or had tool shanks that could be changed.
Turning Point I only wish I could afford one of them it's such a nice boring head 😂
Turning Thanks
catalog is available here: us.wohlhaupter.com/products/facing_and_boring_heads/
Mattew thanks.
its like voodoo