Reseasoning a used rusty DeBuyer carbon steel pan - ends with sliding egg
Вставка
- Опубліковано 16 лют 2020
- Showing you how to reseason a used rusty pan. Also contains a quick size comparison between a Matfer and DeBuyer pan. Also contains the classic sliding egg test
- Навчання та стиль
What a video, I have never seen anything like it! You are the man Xander! I can only say thank you so much, from the bottom of my heart. Now I know what to do with my, once useless, pans. WOW!!!!
I am glad you appreciate my video :)
At 11:03 the „melted“ layer on the handle is most likely not the coating of the handle, but rather the excess oil which was stuck between the rivets. I can imagine that the oil ran all the way down to the handle since the pan was baked upside down. I seasoned my De Buyer at 275C in the oven with no issues at all..
That's exactly what it is. The oil dripped from around the rivets during seasoning and bonded. To avoid that, we have to be extra mindful after applying the oil to wipe the excess off until it appears there's no oil on the pan or on or around the rivets. Then there will be no dripping. Just a smooth layer of seasoning.
Man, you earned that one! I think you were good after you pulled it out of the oven the first time. With enough butter, you can fry your wallet. Good video and thank you for your patience. You did well, the pan looks great!!!!
May sound silly but I find that making a lot of pancakes preferably with butter after seasoning helps set the whole thing and every once in a while do a deepfry, like french fries or whatever - seems somehow solidify and grease the polymer at the same time ...
No your not silly! From the beginning I have only use butter to make my pancakes , they never stick. One thin layer of butter with a pastry brush before cooking each pancake. I use an induction hob at level 2-3. So not too high but pre heat the pan a little.
Perfect!
Godt forklaret og vist 👌
A nice demonstration. I stay with avocado or peanut oil. Sometimes with a "blotchy" seasoning result, flipping the pan over a going stovetop burner will help to even it out. It should only be done for a short time; certainly less than a minute. ( SMOKE !) After, a very thin skim and heating right side up, will level out a seasoning as a last step. AUS-ION showed this little quirky trick--something one would not ordinarily conceive.
Yeah I tried many different oils, flaxseed did not work for me. I have found that peanut oil worked the best for me and it leaves a great dark color. Recently (and I'll make a video about it) I tried a mixture of pure bees wax melted together with two high smoke point oils which worked out great! Do you have a solid-teknics pan? I've been following their progression, lately with their satin pans, but my God they are so expensive haha
@@xandercalasahan1799 bro which carbon steel pan do u recommend
@@BlackMamba-lt8oe I mainly use de buyer and matfer, I would say De buyer has a nicer finish, but they both cook equally good
I wonder why De Buyer does not sell its pans already seasoned. There are a lot of people, including me, who don't know how to do it or who have done it badly. So often we put them in the trash because we do not understand why the pan does not stay clean.
Je me demande pourquoi De Buyer de vend pas ses poêles déjà culottées. Il y a énormément de gens dont moi, qui ne sait pas le faire ou qui l'on mal fait. Du coup souvent on les met à la poubelle car on ne comprend pas pourquoi la poêle ne reste pas propre.
You are right. Some companies sell them seasoned. Seasoning the pan is not so hard, but I often experience that people have a wrong expectation to how strong the new seasoning is. The first seasoning you do is not so strong, it does a little to prevent rust and it does become a little less sticky, but a good seasoning takes time to build. If you want let me know your problem and I will try to help you :)
Do you let the pan cool down completely between each stove top seasoning, or do you keep it on the heat the whole time? Your seasoning looks beautiful!
I just let it cool down enough so that I can touch the cooking surface with my bare hands. Usually it takes about 15 minutes or so
That's the problem with those coated handles. De Buyer state that they are oven safe at 200 ºC, for ten minutes at most. IMO, the pan would be better without the silly coating on the handle. The coating does nothing other than prevent putting the pan under a broiler.
About your cleaning process ... next time try a mixture of white vinegar and water for the flash rust and baking soda for the old patina / burnt stuff. It makes removing those things much easier.
Hej Xander, jeg har lige købt en wok fra De Buyer, lavede en pastaret med ansjoser i og nu ligner det at wok'en er rusten og når jeg kører fingrene over stålet smitter det af
jeg har 2 andre pander fra De Buyer og har aldrig oplevet den slags før
tror du det er rust eller en reaktion med ansjoser?
Great job thank you so much. I inherited a De Buyer crepe pan. I began cleaning it with industrial strength toothpaste, which works frightfully well. I thought the pan was dark and well seasoned. Now i'm stripping and inhaling a coating like Teflon... How can I know the difference?
Im not sure I understand your question, did you strip it and then reasoned it?
@@xandercalasahan1799 If I only had a brain: The De Buyer Choc Non-Stick ALUMINUM (valued at $115) is safely, in the garbage. I took a break from stripping & inhaling fumes. The two materials most toxic to brain health are mercury & aluminum.
Hey Xander. Hope for a reply from you. I did a stove and a oven seasoning and a potato seasoning. And the eggs still sticks. I use only vegetable oil. The heat is medium. Shoud i reduce the heat ? Thx
Hello. yes, it is most likely heat control. Try this: When cooking start with taking out the eggs from the fridge, then start heating the pan on medium low, and then start preparing whatever else you are having with the eggs. After a small 5-10 minutes your eggs are less cold and your pan is thoroughly heated. Let me know how it goes :)
The black line on the handle is oil running out of the pan because you had it upside down!!!
Hi? Do you always do the stove seasoning after oven seasoning? Thank you!
I have yes, because it seemingly creates a more smooth surface :)
@@xandercalasahan1799 I have the same pan but with a wooden handle. You think I can also put it in the oven?
@@TheKarantan No, a wooden handle would not go in the oven. You can do a stove top seasoning or in some cases the wooden handle can be twisted off
Hi ! Did you wash the pan after you used the potato peels,salt and oil! Just wonder!
Yes I did :)
What is the difference between applying oil after it's already heated, vs applying a light coat and wiping it down, then heating it? Also I've heard that you need to heat carbon steel all the until the metal goes from silver to purple and back to silver before seasoning? Any truth to that? I tried doing multiple light coats and heating to smoke point with grapeseed oil 15 times, and the seasoning came off after one light washing with the soft side of a sponge.
The benefit of heating the pan first is that it becomes much easier to apply as thin a coating as possible, without leaving any wipe marks. I haven't heard that you have to heat it until purple, but I have several pans seasoned where I didn't do that, also I have some where I did, because I did it over an open fire - I don't experience any non-stick difference, only difference in color. If your seasoning comes off I suggest you try using another oil. In my experience there are a big difference in oils. What worked best for me so far was peanut oil and also bees was mixed with two different high smoke point oils.
Heating the skillet to the point where it goes through the color cycle (brown, purple, blue, silver) is called tempering and it is not required to season or use iron cookware. However, it is not a bad idea to do it as it forms a microscopic layer of Fe3O4 on the surface which serves as an additional rust protection. But that layer is very delicate and can easily be removed when cleaning the skillet with steel wool. I do the process with all my skillets, but it really is not mandatory.
Heating the skillet up (at least a little) before applying the oil simply makes it easier to apply a very thin layer as the warm oil is more viscous.
If your seasoning comes off easily, you may have used too much oil or didn't let it burn in completely. Warm the skillet up, apply a thin layer of oil and then try to completely remove it again with a dry towel. The skillet then should not look wet but only have a matte, silky look and feel dry to the touch. Then let it burn in until it completely stops smoking (or 1 hour in the oven).
There's also no reason to apply more than 3-5 layers with any of the layer methods. 15 layers is more than overkill and may result in a too thick and brittle layer of seasoning which tends to flake off. If you season a new skillet, give it 3-5 layers, then start cooking. If seasoning gets lost by cooking or cleaning (which is completely normal due to the slick surface of drawn skillets), simply apply one new layer of seasoning and continue cooking.
The REAL seasoning process comes when using the skillet. The initial seasoning process is only done to make it ready to use and provide a basic layer of seasoning to protect it from rust and reacting with food.
@@HrWisch Thank you for the explanation!
@@HrWisch Well Said. It’s what I do. When doing my pans last spring, seasoned and just started using them. No food sticks so I just wipe them out. If anything, I’ll rinse it just under water, dry and heat, especially my wok.
@Pete1burn, I do both, add oil while heating, wipe, smoke, cool down, little drop of oil, wipe with a rag......maybe your old cotton briefs......lol.
I have a De Buyer carbon steel pan. Is it ok to put it in the oven at 250C? I thought because of the handle, you're not supposed to put in the oven (at least according to De Buyer). Looks like your pan survived, so must be ok. When you put the pan in the oven at 250C for 1 1/2 hours, do you leave the heat on during that time, or do you turn the oven off?
if yours is called mineral B and has a small Bee sympol in the middle of the pan, then there is a risk when putting it in the oven at 250C, but as you see, the one I did did just fine. I don't know if I just got lucky
Hi have the de buyer mineral B frying pan that has the BEE logo in the middle and it’s okay to put in the oven at 500°for an 1 1/2 but I don’t put it up side down to make sure the handle won’t be touching the oven metal rack
Most people agree that you should not intentionally roughen up the surface of a carbon steel. The main reason it's more non stick than cast iron is the lack of texture on the surface.
I have done seasoning with flaxseed oil didn’t get non stick... than with avocado oil ... seemed better but still not satisfying
You have an explanation why the old method seem to work best for you?
I probably try tomorrow ... if it just weren’t such a mess...
I am not sure what you mean by "old method", but I have had more luck with some oils than others. So when it comes to oils, I can only advice you to experiment, the best oil I have used was a peanut oil. Apart from the right oil and seasoning method, you should not expect perfect non-stick from the start, meaning that you have to cook and cook, which will make more and more oil polymerize, which essentially creates a really good non-stick surface. You should not expect a non-stick surface equal to actual non-stick pans, but close enough. Also, be really aware of your cooking method, meaning, cook with lower heat than you would do with a typical non-stick pan, let it heat for a bit longer too. Avoid cooking food straight out of the fridge, since really cold food will almost always stick to your pan. My routine is typically to heat the pan, take out the food, and then start chopping/preparing food. Hope it all make sense, and sorry for the long reply :)
@@xandercalasahan1799 thank you very much for your time, I meant the potato peel method :)
@@philipv3098 the potato peel method is one prescribed by one of the French carbon steel pan companies, DeBuyer iirc
Nope it’s matfer that uses potato peels for initial seasoning. cdnimg.webstaurantstore.com/documents/pdf/how-to-season-your-black-steel-pan_1.pdf
So even when they are seasoned, they require fat to cook in?
Not with all foods, but most
What size pan is that?
Unfortunately, I can't remember :(
Unless that is a DeBuyer mineral B Pro, that handle is not made to go in the oven for for then 10 minutes.
I address that in the video
De buyer do a pro version of the mineral b with a stainless handle that’s oven safe. These ones are only safe for 10 mins @ 200C.
Good seasoning though. Never personally found the need to do it in the oven. Just on the stove, thin layer of oil, bring it up to smoking, then pull off the heat and wipe out with a paper towel.
On closed heat (induction, infrared, coils), the side walls of the skillet do not reach the temperatures required for most oils to polymerize. Therefore it is better to season the skillet in the oven. If you have an open heat source like gas, coal or fire, that's not an issue.
I also don't like the DeBuyer MineralB Pro skillets. Not only are they quite expensive (especially compared to the Carbone Plus series which is much cheaper here in Europe), I also don't like the round shape of the stainless steel handle. If you take the hot skillet out of the oven using a towel / oven mitt, the skillet can easily tilt. That's why the classic handle is flat and wide. It is designed to be used with a towel and provides a bomb proof grip that way. Unfortunately, DeBuyer favors looks over function. That's why they use those coatings.
HrWisch good points. I have the Mineral B Pro and you are correct, unless you have strong hands the handle can be a little thin. Have you tried the Carbone Plus with Stainless Handle? That’s supposedly a little thicker, and stays cool to the touch on the stove, and is oven safe.
@@AT16 I own 6 Carbone Plus skillets and will probably buy 5 more when business goes back to normal here (Covid-19). That way I will have more or less the same 'collection' of DeBuyer skillets as my Turk ones (I own 11 Turk [aka Matfer] skillets too). Unfortunately, the handle of the DeBuyer Carbone Plus is not 100% oven safe. It's not bare metal like on classic, European carbon steel skillets (like Turk), it's a so called hammer finish which basically is some sort of a thick, structured paint which looks like hammer marks. While it is no problem to use the skillet in the oven for normal cooking tasks, the coating can become a problem when seasoning in the oven.
I had the finish crack off on two of my skillets when seasoning in the oven. At a certain temperature the paint got soft. As I had the skillet upside down on the oven tray, the paint then melted onto the hot tray. After cooling down, the paint hardened again but it was stuck on the oven tray. When I then lifted the skillet, it cracked off. It's pretty much the same with the MineralB with their epoxy coating. That stuff also gets soft if you use too much heat.
Therefore I would recommend the following:
1. Don't use too much heat. My problem happened at 250° Celsius when seasoning for ~1 hour.
2. If you season the skillet in the oven, don't put it upside down and avoid any contact of the handle to hot surfaces.
3. After the seasoning process, don't touch the handle before it has cooled down so the paint can harden again.
4. NEVER EVER (!!!) use the self cleaning function (pyrolysis) of your oven. It will burn off the paint.
Oh, and the handle isn't made of stainless steel. It's carbon steel like on most classic European carbon steel skillets. But DeBuyer also offers a MineralB variant with hollow stainless steel handles, similar to the Pro but a different handle design. Due to attaching the handles with rivets, DeBuyer can easily offer a wide range of different handles on their skillets.
Unfortunately the insist on only offering coated handles in the classic, broad and flat shape. It may look fancy, but it limits the oven capabilities of those skillets without providing a real benefit. I prefer bare carbon steel handles like Turk / Matfer have it.
HrWisch sorry, I was referring to the attached - they do a version of the carbone plus with stainless steel tube handle in Europe. www.amazon.co.uk/Buyer-5130-24-Carbone-Stainless-Diameter/dp/B000TSSVA4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=de+buyer+carbone+plus&qid=1593358780&sprefix=de+buyer+carbone+&sr=8-2
@@AT16 Thanks for clearing that up. I know those models but didn't get you were referring to them. I didn't even know DeBuyer is selling them in the US.
But as I said, I prefer the classic, flat handle design on all my carbon steel skillets. That leaves me with either the (overpriced) MineralB with epoxy coated handle or the Carbone Plus with hammer finish handle.
The hammer finish is not a deal breaker for me. I still like the DeBuyer skillets. I just wish they used an uncoated handle like Turk and most other brands do.
Wait, I thought soap and metal scrubber was a no-no for cleaning De Buyers pan.
Yep, 200c for 10min max in the oven.
I actually had it in the oven for 2 hours which it handled fine :) I still wonder why they made a handle like that.
@@xandercalasahan1799 The coating is meant to prevent you from burning your fingers on a hot handle. Then again, the flat handle design is meant to be used with a towel anyways. DeBuyer favor looks over function. Therefore they coat the handles of both skillets with that flat, classic design (MineralB = epoxy coating, Carbone Plus = hammer finish / paint). Both coatings are not 100% oven safe. The MineralB Pro has a stainless steel handle which is oven safe. But those skillets are not only quite expensive, I also don't like the rounded handle design. There is a reason why classic carbon steel skillets have that flat handle. You're supposed to always grab those handles with a towel. The thin, flat shape inside of the towel then provides a very firm grip and there is no way the heavy skillet will tilt in your hand. I don't know why DeBuyer thought they had to reinvent the handle design or make it fancy instead of versatile.
Hi! How long do you leave the pan after the 1 1/2 hrs?
I can't remember exactly, but only about 30-60 minutes, or until it is cooled down enough that you can pick it up with your bare hands )
@@xandercalasahan1799 thank you! FYI :I bought a matfer 101/4 ‘cos you and your matfer inspired me to buy one and maybe still buy another 81/2. Thank you again and you have a nice day
I am glad I could help out
@@edgardocapinpin1974 I think I'd rather buy a Matfer since you can put them in the oven.
@@hepgeoff Hi! I’m having a second thoughts of buying another matfer ‘cos washing off the coating is hard, had put a lot elbow grease on it. I seasoned my de buyer b in the oven for 500° for 1 1/2 face side up and nothing happen to the handle. I learned that from Mr.Calasahan
it's the wax dripping down the handle, nothing wrong with it.
19:31
I think the potato and salt seasoning was completely unnecessary. Instead you could just season it with much oil.
It’s an epoxy on the handle. No idea wtf would they do that. End up buying pro version for this reason, as those have the stainless steel handles.
Avocado oil not good for seasoning, it will form beads on the pan, don't do it, noooooo. Canola, vegetable, sunflower, Grapeseed or soybean only! I warmed mine up in oven then oiled it, place in oven at 450°F for one hour. Perfect!
The potato peel and salt method is a crock of nonsense. Here's what you should do next time. Once you have gotten the patina you're looking for you should remove from heat and allow the pan to cool a little or completely, you decide. This next step will make your pan nonstick, guaranteed. Get your pan to around 325 - 375 deg and put a generous amount of oil in the pan. Make sure that the pool of oil makes contact with every square inch of cooking surface. Then move the oil around the sides of the pan with a paper towel. Remove from hat to cool down, or you can start cooking. Your pan will be nonstick at this point. Putting a patina coat on your pan does not make nonstick. It is for looks only, and is completely unnecessary.
A brand new pan will be nonstick if you thoroughly clean it first and then proceed to sentence 5 in the first paragraph where you set the temp between 325 - 375 and thoroughly cover with oil. I guarantee it. An added step that you could try on a new pan is to turn the steel blue with a gas flame. Once the bottom of the pan is blue roll it on it's edge and go around the sides of the pan to make them turn blue too. Then if you season it you are adding extra rust protection. That blue layer is called heat bluing that gives a slight rust inhibiting characteristic.
no, don't ever use soap on it....
Yes :)
@@xandercalasahan1799 No No dude, it is wrong thing to do with carbon steel pan.
@@a.a486 based on my pans performance, I actually strongly disagree
In the old days this was true, not anymore, you can use soap on it.
@@kailu2472 true! I even talk about it in a video. In the old days bar soap contained a high amount of lye
I'm confused. Did I watch 17 minutes of this just for you to say "nevermind. Didn't work. Try a different method." ?!? Ugh. . . these carbon steel seasoning videos are all over the place. . .