James of SV Triteia talks about Rigging Fittings for a Sailboat - Nicopress, Swage, Stalok
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- Опубліковано 18 жов 2024
- Episode #177 : DIY RIGGING
On this Episode we talk about the different types of fittings for a sailboats standing rigging when using 1x19 SS wire rope.
I show you how StaLok fittings work and their benefits for a DIY refit and for use in repairs at sea.
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James & Camille
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Great video, provides a great alternative to expensive rigging done by professional riggers, especially if a repair is needed at sea.
Videos like this are why I'm a patreon. Thanks, dude.
Hi James, Thank you very much. You put a lot of work in your channel. LOVE 🥰🥰🥰
Thank you James for your recommandation about NOT using sealant inside the Sta Lok fittings. I see a lot of DIY riggers on UA-cam who put sealant inside to keep water out. They dont realise that doing so keep the oxygen out as well. I enjoy watching your videos and learn a lot from them. Salutation to you and Camille !
👍🏻 thanks for watching and the nice comment! I do a ton of research and do my very best to relay the most accurate information I can on the how to videos. I have learned so much from UA-cam and am happy to give back to the community with videos like this
I just watched one where they are using sealant inside, and loctite outside. Great info here.
StaLok makes a good fitting. I also like Hayn Hi-Mod fittings. One thing you can do to save a little money is have the top fitting on each wire swaged on and use mechanical fittings on the bottom of the wire. Swaged fitting generally fail when corrosion gets going inside the fitting. The corrosion causes the wire to expand which cracks the swaged fitting. Bottom fittings are more susceptible to corrosion since water runs down the wire into the fitting and can not escape. While water can wick up into a top fitting, it can also drain out so corrosion isn't as big a problem with top swaged fittings. I buy rigging components from Rigging only in Fairhaven, MA. They have better prices than Defender unless you are a Defender first member. However, Rigging only will swage wires for you for only about $12.50 per swage.
Thanks James, well done.
Thank you 👍love your channel happy sailing
You guys are great. Aquiring knowledge contributes to confidence. Always nice to have skills and abilities not only for youself but also for those you meet along the path.
Really good idea with the tape! Thanks for the tips Please upload more like this
Ty for this. Priceless info
Thank you for the insight James.
Thanks for the lessons.
Good video James.
I always worried about the forestay because , there can be quite a load on it, and you can’t see it underneath the
Furling extrusions.
We just replaced our furling system and used sta-lok fittings. Pretty easy to install but a pig to take apart 😂
I will look forward to watching the installation.
Great video
About to replace my rig in with this method. Thanks for the info/sneak peak on what I’ve got ahead of me.
Very cool !
I totally love stuff like this- Great job- Appreciate the info-!
Nice instructive video. You should consider working a deal with your dealer to get affiliated links on rigging hardware & cable wire. Same with Amazon for “ The Complete Rigger’s Apprentice book.
Great video James. I am about to buy a roller furler for my newly purchased A30. PO recently replaced forestay with swaged on top and staylock on bottom. I’m trying to decide on the Harken MK1 or ESP furler, so I’m anxiously anticipating that video.
Thank you. However, this is not a channel for budget cruisers, this is a channel for all cruisers.
James,
I enjoy watching your videos and learn a lot from them. I am wondering if staylock is different from other swageless fittings that require the wire core to project beyond the end of the wedge for proper forming of the end of the wire? Thanks, Mike
I think all of the mechanical fittings are in the same realm as far as how they work, I just decided StaLok was the brand we would go with
NIce. I waited with anticipation for 19 minutes to see your position on using sealant. I'm looking at replacing rod rigging. Makes me nervous because there isn't a good way to self-inspect the cold heads and repair at sea isn't possible. I'm considering dux vs. wire.
I seriously considered dyneema but I didn’t want to be adjusting it all the time as it creeps and the upfront cost of replacing every single attachment point was more than I could afford at the moment. I think it’s a great option for rigging though
@@SailorJames Dyform would be a good alternative to rod ridding. Higher strength/less stretch than 1x19 and also compat with sta-lok. I'm sure I'd reconsider as soon as I look at costs. I'm not super concerned with additional weight aloft/windage of 1x19. Hope you get a chance to sea trial Triteia after the blue water upgrades. I suspect she's going to feel a bit different under sail.
I know its better for you to plan this then have the boat plan it for you. Did you get an estimate from a rigger first, before you decided you had to do it? Whats your estimate of costs you doing it? Thank you
If you had did not have a roller furler would you use this set up ,thank you
Yeah for sure, with no furler I would use stalok all around
316ss is soft but somewhat corrosion resistant, 308 is stronger but more susceptible to corrosion, you can cryo treat the 308 which does allot of stuff to the material but the one thing it does is redistribution of the carbon to make it more corrosion resistant, I’m not to sure if the cryo hardening will make it somewhat brittle as carbon is very hard but brittle and if you redistributed the carbon content in the stainless steel one might think it becomes more brittle??? That makes for some good research!
This information was irrelevant for me but I liked looking at your cute face.