Myth- you have to invest in expensive blocking mats and comb pins to get a quality blocked item. 😊 That helps, of course, but no one will be able to tell the difference if you use cardboard and sewing pins.
I wish I saw this Monday before I gave Knit Picks more of my money? I see someone said we do need wires. I'm guessing for lace work. I am going to put those projects off then because this hobby is breaking the bank!
I am starting the master hand knitting program and just researched and wrote an essay about blocking and caring for hand knits. You are mostly spot on! Big take away! do not dry clean your hand knit!
I heard "Arne and Carlos" explain how many Norwegian folks clean/freshen wool sweaters...1st, they rarely ever soak them again after the initial knit and steam or block. 2nd, they hang them (somehow) outdoors overnight in the cold. Cold is the key, I believe. I've done this a few times, and it works surprisingly well. 100% wool is a remarkable thing.
Oh, I forgot one thing, I'm wondering if anyone else has heard this because I can't remember who said it: the idea was that the moths and other creatures are actually attracted as much to substances that come off of our bodies as they are by the wool, so the optimal time to thoroughly clean all your knits is at the end of the wearing season, when you're getting ready to store them away for several months.
Had an experience where I knitted a hat. The yarns was labeled superwash. So I washed it in the washing machine and layed it flat to dry. Oh my, the hat completely lost its shape. Talk about something that was flimsy. I rewashed and put it into the dryer to dry. The hat regained its shape and my granddaughter wore it all winter. That is the only time I've ever had a problem with superwash. Generally I purchase yarn that is not superwash, but if I do I wash it by hand and dry it flat.
I wish I had known about the superwash yarn stretching ages ago! I've knit a number of sweaters for family members in superwash, and they just never turned out with the same bounce and structure as ones I made myself in non-superwash and I didn't clue in as to why until a few videos ago! The superwash sweaters all stretched a lot, and had much more drape than I thought they would because a swatch wasn't quite enough to really show just how much they would stretch being worn.
Hi, Tayler! Nanette from SF, here. So much to comment on! 1) I have a Samsung washer with a wool cycle and use that for EVERYTHING. I use Dr. Bronner’s lavender and Soak and Woolite, whatever is handy. I add a little lavender essential oil for moth repellent. 2) After, I use my spin dryer to get every last drop out. Handknits, thrifted cashmere, it all gets spun. 3) I dry everything flat on a folding , extendable standing drying rack. I can loop socks and thrifted machine knits over the slats and for blocking, I can set up my mats and wires, etc. I have blocked a cabled scarf over 6’ on mats on it! It folds up to nothing. 4) I don’t block socks. I sometimes block hats. (I have a set of black balloons that I set in a porcelain dish). After a first initial blocking, I usually lay sweaters out. I ALWAYS block shawls, every time they get washed. 5) I store all my yarn in thin cotton muslin. I wrap or sew bags and then store in plastic labeled bins or even a big Amazon zip up container. I need to make some more for a new stash of Nutiden. While they wait, they are in our version of a plastic bag which is for industrial composting ( our city compostes). It is my understanding that moths cannot eat through cotton cloth. Also, I put lavender sachets in all my project bags. Wow, that was an earful! Thanks for all your great info!!!
My front loading washer has a hand wash cycle in addition to the usual delicate cycle. It literally soaks, flips one turn in one direction, soaks some more, flips in the other direction, repeats this a few times and then spins out using whatever spin speed you select. It's awesome and I'd never buy a washer without this cycle now that I'm used to it. I use it for all my hand knits other than the smallest items like socks.
I'm curious to know how this has worked on those items you've knit with non-Superwash yarn. From what I've read, these cycles are specifically intended for woolen items that are machine washable. Have you had the occasion to use your machine with untreated wool items?
I have used the spin function on my washer to spin non-superwash items. However, this was a front-loader, that I owned when we lived in Europe. I don’t trust my American washing machine one bit. 😂
MYTH It’s not worth it knitting items for children - at least from natural untreated fibers. I’ve been knitting for my four children for a solid decade now and trust me, I’ve seen some stains in my handknits. However, there has yet to be an item that cannot be rescued. I have once had to overdye a white cotton top that my 2.5yo ruined. It’s pink now and is receiving even more love than before. 😂 But in all seriousness: untreated wool has self-cleaning properties. Letting stains dry, picking off the most of it and then airing out the item is usually sufficient. MYTH Wool can’t be washed in warm water. It can! What actually causes felting is agitation and sudden temperature changes. You can use warm water to soak your woolens, but avoid rinsing it with cold water right after. If I have greasy stains on my woolen clothes (well, usually on the children‘s clothes 😂), I use warm water and some dawn dish soap to lift the stains. I let the item sit in the water until it has cooled to room temp. Then I remove it, rinse with room temp water, and then soak in some lanolin rich wool detergent like Eucalan. This method has never failed me!
@@WOOLNEEDLESHANDS yes, many times. I dislike superwash wool so most of my items are not superwash. This cycle is not to be confused with delicate, it is entirely different. If you are not comfortable using the spin cycle, you can select no spin and it will just drain and shut off.
@@WOOLNEEDLESHANDS this is the descripton of the handwash cycle from the manufacturer: "What is hand wash mode on LG washer? Your most delicate garments - such as those with sequins, embroidery, or prominent buttons - are other items requiring you to use your hand wash washing machine setting. Designed to imitate how clothes are washed in the sink, this setting has periods of gentle tumbling alternated with soaking in cold water."
If you want/need to hang your sweaters, my mom taught me to fold the sweater in half longways, then drape the sleeves on one side of the hanger and the bottom half of the sweater over the other side of the hanger. I'd include a pic, if I could. Just make sure it's. It tightly wrapped around the hanger, so there's no stretching on the seams in the armpit.
Yes. I know exactly what you're talking about! Sort of like hanging jeans or pants. This is a pretty good method if you're short on space and it does limit the horrible shoulder morphing that happens when you use the hanger as intended. Great suggestion!
I just watched a video with a lady in northern Finland. She takes her knit sweaters out in the snow in the winter, presses them into the snow, then leaves them overnight. Claimed it even took out stains.
About pilling - for what it’s worth: I have a friend who works in a museum on fabric conservancy. She says that removing pills by using a scissors is the least damage to the knitted garment. She doesn’t like the shaving machines and doesn’t use them. Ever.
Yes! Scissors are definitely the least damaging, especially if you're working with items in a museum or items that you're personally preserving (and most likely NOT wearing). However, for those garments that have a pretty significant pilling issue, scissors may not be the most feasible or efficient and may lead to a person avoiding the de-pilling process altogether, ultimately resorting to not wearing the garment, which in my opinion, is unfortunate. If using a fabric shaver or wool comb from time to time means that you'll wear the item, the small loss in integrity of the fabric over time (the shaver or wool comb only removes the already-shedding layer, when used properly) may be a small price to pay. I'm a big proponent of doing what you need to to ensure that you'll wear/use your items and I feel like, unless your preserving wool clothing for posterity, using a de-piller is a decent solution.
I hand wash and dry flat all of my hand knits, except for my socks, which go in the washer but dry flat. I am very careful about gift knits. I always match the yarn to the level of care the recipient will give the garment. My SIL won't felt her scarves, but my mom.... And I never gift non-superwash newborn baby items. New moms don't need the extra stress of wool care or to grieve over a shrunken blanket that is now the size of a dishcloth because helpful hubby ran it through "disinfect" laundry cycles :-(
Bless me, Knitting Mother, for I may have sinned. First, loved this episode, even though I was aware of most of it. Did not know about the other pests to our wool. Aaahhh, protect the woolies! Confession time: I do not usually block hats, scarves or fingerless mitts. I do like to steam-block colorwork--like the Christmas stocking I made a couple years ago. I'm doing one for my granddaughter now and it will get steam-blocked with a wet towel and iron. Thanks for sharing!
I have found with at least one of my sweaters, that was knit a little short due to running out of yarn and with superwash yarn, I hang it on a hanger to stretch it while it dries, and it hangs on a hanger in my closet just fine.
Thank you for sharing. ❤ I have knit more than a few nordic sweaters, and have never experienced colour bleeding. I have however learned, that when you perches a new pair of jeans, you should always wash them before use. And that it’s a good idea to add white vinegar instead of fabric softener, to “lock” the colour.
Thank you so much for your thoroughness - I love it.❤ I will add to the discussion that I do wash my hand knits in my Miele washing machine. I will emphazise that my machine is fairly new, and has a dedicated hand wash program with COLD water. That was super important to me, and one of the reasons we chose this particular machine. Most of the cycle it just does what I do when blocking; which is soaking the knits, before it spins them on a gentle cycle. My knits don´t seem to be effected by this treatment at all. I remember when I was a little girl I watched my mother battle my fathers giant heavy wool sweaters when hand washing them, back in the days before they got a new washing machine with a wool program. That image has etched itself in my mind to the degree that hand washing knits, beyond the initial soak before blocking is something I don´t want for myself. 😂
Ha 😅 blocking really depends on WHAT you are knitting. I don't "block" my sweaters or socks. I just lay flat to dry. HOWEVER, this is very dependent on the pattern. Lace? Yeah you'll need to block out. Cables? Probably need to block out too. But...Basic knit stitch for an entire sweater knit in the round that has positive ease? No. Just lay flat and make sure it's laying evenly. Blocking, or hard blocking with pins and mats is unnecessary, in my experience. To each their own.
In my opinion, and from what I know about blocking knits, what you're doing by laying the item out flat IS blocking. Blocking doesn't always need to include pins. In fact, save for the garment I'm blocking here in this video clip, I rarely/never use pins. I just lay it out, shape it and let it dry. That is, by definition, blocking. It sets the stitches and makes everything look polished. "Not blocking" would essentially be knitting it and wearing it straight off the needles. Not a good look in the vast majority of cases, regardless of the fabric characteristics. (I used pins here primarily to shape the split hem of this sweater, which, despite being plain stockinette, would look far less finished if I skipped the pins--and when you use pins for one area, it makes sense to use them to provide gentle opposing tension in other areas.)
Okay, I have a few things: 1. My understanding about detergents is that regular laundry detergent contains enzymes designed to break down proteins and fats (the stuff that gets onto our clothes from our own bodies and from food spills), and so regular detergent will actually destroy your knitted animal fibers (proteins) just because that's what they are designed to do. It's not that the detergent is "harsh" or "toxic," it's just incompatible with the material you're cleaning. 2. What's the difference between a special spin dryer and just putting your item into your regular washing machine on a spin cycle? I sincerely don't understand the point of having this contraption if you already have a washing machine. 3. I'm wondering about other people's experiences with "color grabbers" when cleaning newly knitted items that have multiple colors. I've had very good luck with these and even throw them in the washing machine with newly purchased clothes, just for a little insurance.
2. might relate more to front load washers? I seem to remember the defence against front loaders, as we have used for decades in Europe, was that the spin is harsher? Perhaps more pertinent as front loaders become more popular across North America.
Re: spin dryers: you can’t really dye much yarn without them. I can’t imagine life without mine. First time I saw was at a fancy gym for swim suits. I only have so many beach towels and so much floor space. There is too much space in a regular washer for the wool to fly around in and it could stretch. Not so in a narrow spin dryer. Best Xmas gif ever!
@@stephbloomspecialistsaddle3061 Hmm. I hated my front loader and replaced it with a good old-fashioned Speed Queen top loader. I love throwing wet knits in there and running the spin cycle, instead of putting things between towels and walking around on them. I can do my entire washing and spinning process in the washer as long as I leave the lid open after it fills, let it soak, and then skip straight to the spin cycle to avoid any agitation. Inga at Knitting Traditions says that her washing machine actually has a "wool" cycle, and she washes all of her knits in the machine. I'm wondering if that's just a European thing, but I'm jealous!
The weight can stretch the garment, especially if you have thick/heavy sweaters, or sweaters made with a yarn that’s prone to stretching out (alpaca, superwash wool, silk mohair…)
Thanks for another great video! A topic I’ve been wanting to learn more about. I’d also love to watch someone’s process of their washday routine for hand knits. I’ve tried to find such video, so if anyone knows of one, I’d so appreciate any recommendations! 💛
Kutovakika shows her process on her youtube video 'Knitting and Designing a Colorwork Sweater From Start to Finish'. At around 31 minutes she starts to wash and block the sweater. I found this helpful :)
Hi! Thanks for this video. ❤ I was wondering about color catchers to use one when soaking knits that might bleed? Also, on a somewhat related topic, is there a best way to fold your hand knit sweaters to prevent creases or lines from them being folded and stored?
My problem with storing knits in a drawer is “out of sight out of mind”. I don’t have room to store all my clothes like that so most are still in my closet. As a result most of my knit items (which aren’t many), haven’t been worn in years because I forget about them. I’m thinking about moving them back to hangers so I remember to wear them because what’s the point of making clothes that never get worn, and even if they get distorted that’s still better than languishing in a drawer. I’m still working through the video but I feel like there’s a line between what’s ideal and what’s practical. Hand washing, drying flat, drawer storage, all these are things that inhibit me from wearing my knit items (hand washing is extra work, and I don’t have a good place to dry stuff flat, let alone block it properly) so while I appreciate learning proper methods of care, they’re ultimately not things that work for me. If they do for others that’s great, but personally they’re barriers to actually enjoying the fruits of my labours.
I think this is a solid reason to just go about doing what works for YOU. I’m a big proponent of that. And practicality is very important and those that have been watching my videos for a while know how I feel about that so yeah, if none of these things work for you, do what does. At the end of the day, that’s what matters.👍
I started folding items in half and then placing them on hangers if I want to store them in the closet but I’m concerned about stretching. I basically fold the sleeves in and then fold the garment half so it’s a nice big wedge. I’m sure there’s a smidge of stretching just because of gravity, but not near the same as if you’re hanging it traditionally on a hanger.
I never block any of my knits. I guess I shuld try and see if it is worth the effort. My friend also mentioned that acrylic yarn did not block at all(she made a shawl of it)
@saulemaroussault6343 Good to know. I only heard about it from my friend. Because I still need to learn about bloking, I am a total dummy in this subject😊.
Thanks for a great video (again...). 🙂 Do you know how to beat remove pilling from a sweater knitted with wool and silk mohair? I have a feeling, the normal depiller will not work, I'm afraid it will remove all the mohair fuzz as well...
Did your little black tee bleed? Did you machine wash it? Just curious. I just bought some about strings yarn to make an Anker tee. This was a fun podcast. Always enjoy your podcasts❤
About moths : they hate light and air. So putting knitted items on a shelf is not such a bad idea. Just avoid direct sunlight to keep the colours from fading. (The worst way to store knits would be on hangers, crammed in a damp dark closet)
Yep. That's true. Like I emphasize here, in the "vast majority of cases" but certainly not all. And even though you can wash Superwash-treated items in the washer, you should never wash or dry them on high, and I think that's a fact that is often not emphasized enough.
Does anyone have tips for washing a white wool cardigan? I knitted a cabled cardigan last year that I love and wear pretty much every day, and I can’t seem to wash the grey off the sleeves. Any advice appreciated 😄
The spin-dryer you mentioned? Can you get the same results by using your washing machine just on the spin cycle after you hand wash your knits, or is that too rough?
Hi! Yes, you can, but make sure you handwash your garment first, and then spin it inside a delicates bag or lingerie bag. Otherwise, your piece will lose its shape
Great question! It can be done, but the risk of spinning the garment or item out of shape is a lot higher due to the size of the drum. I know it seems excessive to have a separate spin dryer for this purpose, and full-disclosure, I have one for my yarn dyeing business, but I feel like it's been SO nice to have when blocking sweaters as it cuts the drying time in half.
I have a high efficiency washing machine without an agitator and has a woolen hand wash setting.... I do a load of knits on that a week for the last 4 years and it has been fine in my opinion....
Great question! Generally-speaking this setting is intended for washable wool items only so if you're knitting with a Superwash yarn, the finished piece can be washed in the machine on this setting. For those items that are knit with untreated wool yarn or garments with labels that specify hand-washing, I would avoid using this method. I've never done it so I'm not speaking from experience, but from what I know about wool and how easily it can felt in certain situations, I would avoid it.
It depends. I’ve lived in different countries and have gotten varying results. It’s not only the spin, that causes felting or other sort of damage. With wool, it’s also sudden changes in temperature. Depending on where you live, your rinse water might be significantly colder than 30 degrees celsius, especially in winter. So if your rinse water isn’t temp controlled, the rinse cycle could be felting your wool garment.
Is it normal for the smell of wool fibers to remain after washing tho? I wonder when the smell will dissipate because the person I gave a cowl to really doesn't like it. Sadness lol
Yes, it does make a difference by limiting the dimensions that the garment to be stretched to. To clarify, if the garment is not in some kind of bag it can be stretched to multiple times the circumference of the tub simply by the action of the machine and the water. If the garment is in a bag it can only be stretched to the dimensions of the bag. In theory, if the bag is relatively small the garment can’t stretch at all - but you need to be careful that it isn’t too compressed for the washing to clean it effectively.
Soooo I just laid out my cardigan on blocking mats. I have t pins but it doesn't look like I need them. Do you always use t pins or can you just lay it there and walk away. 😅
You can totally just leave it. I have only ever used pins like twice and it was for the second Frankensweater because of the split hem and the other was a shawl. 👍
I AM SOOOOO GLAD YOUR COVERING THIS TOPIC!!! I've sooooooo been meaning to search on your UA-cam podcast about caring for wool specifically. But I love the broader topic you're covering today. 🙌🏼❤️🫶🏼 THANK YOU!
Today we're speaking some truths and clearing up some myths surrounding caring for your knits. Leave yours below! ❤
My mantra is;
Take as much care looking after your hand-knits as you took making them!
Myth- you have to invest in expensive blocking mats and comb pins to get a quality blocked item. 😊 That helps, of course, but no one will be able to tell the difference if you use cardboard and sewing pins.
100%. I JUST got mine because I WANTED dedicated blocking mats. Certainly not because I needed them. ☺️
I found that the package of 8 2x2 floor mats for like $28 about 2 years ago.
You do have to fork out for wires, though, and I use the mats and wires all of the time.
As long as your sewing pins are rust proof . . .
I wish I saw this Monday before I gave Knit Picks more of my money? I see someone said we do need wires. I'm guessing for lace work. I am going to put those projects off then because this hobby is breaking the bank!
I am starting the master hand knitting program and just researched and wrote an essay about blocking and caring for hand knits. You are mostly spot on! Big take away! do not dry clean your hand knit!
I use a salad spinner to remove excess water from small items.
I heard "Arne and Carlos" explain how many Norwegian folks clean/freshen wool sweaters...1st, they rarely ever soak them again after the initial knit and steam or block. 2nd, they hang them (somehow) outdoors overnight in the cold. Cold is the key, I believe. I've done this a few times, and it works surprisingly well. 100% wool is a remarkable thing.
I haven’t seen this!
I agree about the socks not being blocked! They look lovely when blocked but I think they actually fit better when not blocked …
100%
Oh, I forgot one thing, I'm wondering if anyone else has heard this because I can't remember who said it: the idea was that the moths and other creatures are actually attracted as much to substances that come off of our bodies as they are by the wool, so the optimal time to thoroughly clean all your knits is at the end of the wearing season, when you're getting ready to store them away for several months.
Yes it's true as far as I know. And freezing definitely works, I froze all my sweaters when I got moths and not had them in the 4 years since.
Had an experience where I knitted a hat. The yarns was labeled superwash. So I washed it in the washing machine and layed it flat to dry. Oh my, the hat completely lost its shape. Talk about something that was flimsy. I rewashed and put it into the dryer to dry. The hat regained its shape and my granddaughter wore it all winter. That is the only time I've ever had a problem with superwash.
Generally I purchase yarn that is not superwash, but if I do I wash it by hand and dry it flat.
you can also wash your colorwork swatch as a way to see if it bleeds......before you start to knit your garment
I wish I had known about the superwash yarn stretching ages ago! I've knit a number of sweaters for family members in superwash, and they just never turned out with the same bounce and structure as ones I made myself in non-superwash and I didn't clue in as to why until a few videos ago! The superwash sweaters all stretched a lot, and had much more drape than I thought they would because a swatch wasn't quite enough to really show just how much they would stretch being worn.
Hi, Tayler! Nanette from SF, here. So much to comment on! 1) I have a Samsung washer with a wool cycle and use that for EVERYTHING. I use Dr. Bronner’s lavender and Soak and Woolite, whatever is handy. I add a little lavender essential oil for moth repellent. 2) After, I use my spin dryer to get every last drop out. Handknits, thrifted cashmere, it all gets spun. 3) I dry everything flat on a folding , extendable standing drying rack. I can loop socks and thrifted machine knits over the slats and for blocking, I can set up my mats and wires, etc. I have blocked a cabled scarf over 6’ on mats on it! It folds up to nothing. 4) I don’t block socks. I sometimes block hats. (I have a set of black balloons that I set in a porcelain dish). After a first initial blocking, I usually lay sweaters
out. I ALWAYS block shawls, every time they get washed. 5) I store all my yarn in thin cotton muslin. I wrap or sew bags and then store in plastic labeled bins or even a big Amazon zip up container. I need to make some more for a new stash of Nutiden. While they wait, they are in our version of a plastic bag which is for industrial composting ( our city compostes). It is my understanding that moths cannot eat through cotton cloth. Also, I put lavender sachets in all my project bags.
Wow, that was an earful! Thanks for all your great info!!!
My front loading washer has a hand wash cycle in addition to the usual delicate cycle. It literally soaks, flips one turn in one direction, soaks some more, flips in the other direction, repeats this a few times and then spins out using whatever spin speed you select. It's awesome and I'd never buy a washer without this cycle now that I'm used to it. I use it for all my hand knits other than the smallest items like socks.
I'm curious to know how this has worked on those items you've knit with non-Superwash yarn. From what I've read, these cycles are specifically intended for woolen items that are machine washable. Have you had the occasion to use your machine with untreated wool items?
I have used the spin function on my washer to spin non-superwash items. However, this was a front-loader, that I owned when we lived in Europe. I don’t trust my American washing machine one bit. 😂
MYTH It’s not worth it knitting items for children - at least from natural untreated fibers. I’ve been knitting for my four children for a solid decade now and trust me, I’ve seen some stains in my handknits. However, there has yet to be an item that cannot be rescued. I have once had to overdye a white cotton top that my 2.5yo ruined. It’s pink now and is receiving even more love than before. 😂 But in all seriousness: untreated wool has self-cleaning properties. Letting stains dry, picking off the most of it and then airing out the item is usually sufficient.
MYTH Wool can’t be washed in warm water. It can! What actually causes felting is agitation and sudden temperature changes. You can use warm water to soak your woolens, but avoid rinsing it with cold water right after. If I have greasy stains on my woolen clothes (well, usually on the children‘s clothes 😂), I use warm water and some dawn dish soap to lift the stains. I let the item sit in the water until it has cooled to room temp. Then I remove it, rinse with room temp water, and then soak in some lanolin rich wool detergent like Eucalan. This method has never failed me!
@@WOOLNEEDLESHANDS yes, many times. I dislike superwash wool so most of my items are not superwash. This cycle is not to be confused with delicate, it is entirely different. If you are not comfortable using the spin cycle, you can select no spin and it will just drain and shut off.
@@WOOLNEEDLESHANDS this is the descripton of the handwash cycle from the manufacturer:
"What is hand wash mode on LG washer?
Your most delicate garments - such as those with sequins, embroidery, or prominent buttons - are other items requiring you to use your hand wash washing machine setting. Designed to imitate how clothes are washed in the sink, this setting has periods of gentle tumbling alternated with soaking in cold water."
If you want/need to hang your sweaters, my mom taught me to fold the sweater in half longways, then drape the sleeves on one side of the hanger and the bottom half of the sweater over the other side of the hanger. I'd include a pic, if I could. Just make sure it's. It tightly wrapped around the hanger, so there's no stretching on the seams in the armpit.
Yes. I know exactly what you're talking about! Sort of like hanging jeans or pants. This is a pretty good method if you're short on space and it does limit the horrible shoulder morphing that happens when you use the hanger as intended. Great suggestion!
I just watched a video with a lady in northern Finland. She takes her knit sweaters out in the snow in the winter, presses them into the snow, then leaves them overnight. Claimed it even took out stains.
I love this. It’s so romantic for some reason. ☺️
About pilling - for what it’s worth: I have a friend who works in a museum on fabric conservancy. She says that removing pills by using a scissors is the least damage to the knitted garment. She doesn’t like the shaving machines and doesn’t use them. Ever.
This !! Using scissors doesn’t pull on the fibers, preventing further pilling
Yes! Scissors are definitely the least damaging, especially if you're working with items in a museum or items that you're personally preserving (and most likely NOT wearing). However, for those garments that have a pretty significant pilling issue, scissors may not be the most feasible or efficient and may lead to a person avoiding the de-pilling process altogether, ultimately resorting to not wearing the garment, which in my opinion, is unfortunate. If using a fabric shaver or wool comb from time to time means that you'll wear the item, the small loss in integrity of the fabric over time (the shaver or wool comb only removes the already-shedding layer, when used properly) may be a small price to pay. I'm a big proponent of doing what you need to to ensure that you'll wear/use your items and I feel like, unless your preserving wool clothing for posterity, using a de-piller is a decent solution.
I hand wash and dry flat all of my hand knits, except for my socks, which go in the washer but dry flat. I am very careful about gift knits. I always match the yarn to the level of care the recipient will give the garment. My SIL won't felt her scarves, but my mom.... And I never gift non-superwash newborn baby items. New moms don't need the extra stress of wool care or to grieve over a shrunken blanket that is now the size of a dishcloth because helpful hubby ran it through "disinfect" laundry cycles :-(
Bless me, Knitting Mother, for I may have sinned. First, loved this episode, even though I was aware of most of it. Did not know about the other pests to our wool. Aaahhh, protect the woolies! Confession time: I do not usually block hats, scarves or fingerless mitts. I do like to steam-block colorwork--like the Christmas stocking I made a couple years ago. I'm doing one for my granddaughter now and it will get steam-blocked with a wet towel and iron. Thanks for sharing!
A great video as always!
I use Shout Colour Catchers as “insurance” against colour bleeding - they seem to work well!
Love these episodes.
Am slowly going through your background podcasts and loving them.
Omgosh when you need testers I'm interested!! I've been coveting your tee for so long!
Great tips! I agree about not blocking socks. I don't do block toques (beanies) either 🤫
I have found with at least one of my sweaters, that was knit a little short due to running out of yarn and with superwash yarn, I hang it on a hanger to stretch it while it dries, and it hangs on a hanger in my closet just fine.
Thank you for sharing. ❤
I have knit more than a few nordic sweaters, and have never experienced colour bleeding.
I have however learned, that when you perches a new pair of jeans, you should always wash them before use. And that it’s a good idea to add white vinegar instead of fabric softener, to “lock” the colour.
Thank you so much for your thoroughness - I love it.❤ I will add to the discussion that I do wash my hand knits in my Miele washing machine. I will emphazise that my machine is fairly new, and has a dedicated hand wash program with COLD water. That was super important to me, and one of the reasons we chose this particular machine. Most of the cycle it just does what I do when blocking; which is soaking the knits, before it spins them on a gentle cycle. My knits don´t seem to be effected by this treatment at all.
I remember when I was a little girl I watched my mother battle my fathers giant heavy wool sweaters when hand washing them, back in the days before they got a new washing machine with a wool program. That image has etched itself in my mind to the degree that hand washing knits, beyond the initial soak before blocking is something I don´t want for myself. 😂
Thanks! I just love your podcasts and can’t wait to start the KT sweater. 😊
Thank you so much Kristin! Excited to have you on board the KTKAL!
Ha 😅 blocking really depends on WHAT you are knitting.
I don't "block" my sweaters or socks. I just lay flat to dry.
HOWEVER, this is very dependent on the pattern.
Lace? Yeah you'll need to block out. Cables? Probably need to block out too.
But...Basic knit stitch for an entire sweater knit in the round that has positive ease? No. Just lay flat and make sure it's laying evenly. Blocking, or hard blocking with pins and mats is unnecessary, in my experience.
To each their own.
This is the way
In my opinion, and from what I know about blocking knits, what you're doing by laying the item out flat IS blocking. Blocking doesn't always need to include pins. In fact, save for the garment I'm blocking here in this video clip, I rarely/never use pins. I just lay it out, shape it and let it dry. That is, by definition, blocking. It sets the stitches and makes everything look polished. "Not blocking" would essentially be knitting it and wearing it straight off the needles. Not a good look in the vast majority of cases, regardless of the fabric characteristics.
(I used pins here primarily to shape the split hem of this sweater, which, despite being plain stockinette, would look far less finished if I skipped the pins--and when you use pins for one area, it makes sense to use them to provide gentle opposing tension in other areas.)
Okay, I have a few things:
1. My understanding about detergents is that regular laundry detergent contains enzymes designed to break down proteins and fats (the stuff that gets onto our clothes from our own bodies and from food spills), and so regular detergent will actually destroy your knitted animal fibers (proteins) just because that's what they are designed to do. It's not that the detergent is "harsh" or "toxic," it's just incompatible with the material you're cleaning.
2. What's the difference between a special spin dryer and just putting your item into your regular washing machine on a spin cycle? I sincerely don't understand the point of having this contraption if you already have a washing machine.
3. I'm wondering about other people's experiences with "color grabbers" when cleaning newly knitted items that have multiple colors. I've had very good luck with these and even throw them in the washing machine with newly purchased clothes, just for a little insurance.
2. might relate more to front load washers? I seem to remember the defence against front loaders, as we have used for decades in Europe, was that the spin is harsher? Perhaps more pertinent as front loaders become more popular across North America.
Re: spin dryers: you can’t really dye much yarn without them. I can’t imagine life without mine. First time I saw was at a fancy gym for swim suits. I only have so many beach towels and so much floor space. There is too much space in a regular washer for the wool to fly around in and it could stretch. Not so in a narrow spin dryer. Best Xmas gif ever!
@@stephbloomspecialistsaddle3061 Hmm. I hated my front loader and replaced it with a good old-fashioned Speed Queen top loader. I love throwing wet knits in there and running the spin cycle, instead of putting things between towels and walking around on them. I can do my entire washing and spinning process in the washer as long as I leave the lid open after it fills, let it soak, and then skip straight to the spin cycle to avoid any agitation.
Inga at Knitting Traditions says that her washing machine actually has a "wool" cycle, and she washes all of her knits in the machine. I'm wondering if that's just a European thing, but I'm jealous!
My sweaters go on velvet sweaters for the season and then they go back into bins and vacuum sealed bags. They don't get weird bumps.
The weight can stretch the garment, especially if you have thick/heavy sweaters, or sweaters made with a yarn that’s prone to stretching out (alpaca, superwash wool, silk mohair…)
Thanks for another great video! A topic I’ve been wanting to learn more about. I’d also love to watch someone’s process of their washday routine for hand knits. I’ve tried to find such video, so if anyone knows of one, I’d so appreciate any recommendations! 💛
Kutovakika shows her process on her youtube video 'Knitting and Designing a Colorwork Sweater From Start to Finish'. At around 31 minutes she starts to wash and block the sweater. I found this helpful :)
@@MsLilywren Awesome, thank you so much!
Hi! Thanks for this video. ❤ I was wondering about color catchers to use one when soaking knits that might bleed? Also, on a somewhat related topic, is there a best way to fold your hand knit sweaters to prevent creases or lines from them being folded and stored?
My problem with storing knits in a drawer is “out of sight out of mind”. I don’t have room to store all my clothes like that so most are still in my closet. As a result most of my knit items (which aren’t many), haven’t been worn in years because I forget about them. I’m thinking about moving them back to hangers so I remember to wear them because what’s the point of making clothes that never get worn, and even if they get distorted that’s still better than languishing in a drawer.
I’m still working through the video but I feel like there’s a line between what’s ideal and what’s practical. Hand washing, drying flat, drawer storage, all these are things that inhibit me from wearing my knit items (hand washing is extra work, and I don’t have a good place to dry stuff flat, let alone block it properly) so while I appreciate learning proper methods of care, they’re ultimately not things that work for me. If they do for others that’s great, but personally they’re barriers to actually enjoying the fruits of my labours.
I think this is a solid reason to just go about doing what works for YOU. I’m a big proponent of that. And practicality is very important and those that have been watching my videos for a while know how I feel about that so yeah, if none of these things work for you, do what does. At the end of the day, that’s what matters.👍
I started folding items in half and then placing them on hangers if I want to store them in the closet but I’m concerned about stretching. I basically fold the sleeves in and then fold the garment half so it’s a nice big wedge. I’m sure there’s a smidge of stretching just because of gravity, but not near the same as if you’re hanging it traditionally on a hanger.
There's shelves that can be hung on a closet rod and can hold knits folded and stacked so they don't stretch out. This can keep everything together.
Lots of good tips and info here, thanks Tayler.
My pleasure Alison! Thank you!
Hi Tayler! Thank you for another wonderful video.
Your content is always so helpful ❤
Thank you so much! This is very generous. ❤
Great video. Thank you for all the information.
Why are your videos ALWAYS so timely?!!!!!
Thank you friend! Great minds think alike. 😘
I never block any of my knits. I guess I shuld try and see if it is worth the effort. My friend also mentioned that acrylic yarn did not block at all(she made a shawl of it)
Acrylic can be (at least partially) blocked ! There are a bunch of videos comparing different methods.
@saulemaroussault6343 Good to know. I only heard about it from my friend. Because I still need to learn about bloking, I am a total dummy in this subject😊.
Oh you should DEFINITELY try. That juice is worth the squeeze. 🍋
Block. Please.
Thanks for a great video (again...). 🙂 Do you know how to beat remove pilling from a sweater knitted with wool and silk mohair? I have a feeling, the normal depiller will not work, I'm afraid it will remove all the mohair fuzz as well...
Very interesting!
Did your little black tee bleed? Did you machine wash it? Just curious. I just bought some about strings yarn to make an Anker tee. This was a fun podcast. Always enjoy your podcasts❤
About moths : they hate light and air. So putting knitted items on a shelf is not such a bad idea. Just avoid direct sunlight to keep the colours from fading. (The worst way to store knits would be on hangers, crammed in a damp dark closet)
Hi! What is the pattern for the sweater shown in this video's cover photo?
That looked something like the folk lore sweater.
Not all super wash yarn are created equally. I washed and dried a sweater made with super wash wool in the machines and it shrunk!
Yep. That's true. Like I emphasize here, in the "vast majority of cases" but certainly not all. And even though you can wash Superwash-treated items in the washer, you should never wash or dry them on high, and I think that's a fact that is often not emphasized enough.
Hi Tayler, I have a quick question can use woollite to wash sweaters??
What about cedar chests?
Oh yes, if you have a cedar chest, it's a fantastic storage solution. Folks have been using them for centuries! ❤
That’s my go-to. 😉
Does anyone have tips for washing a white wool cardigan? I knitted a cabled cardigan last year that I love and wear pretty much every day, and I can’t seem to wash the grey off the sleeves. Any advice appreciated 😄
Try some bluing dye? Not *blue* dye, but there's a 'bluing' additive that brightens whites.
The spin-dryer you mentioned? Can you get the same results by using your washing machine just on the spin cycle after you hand wash your knits, or is that too rough?
Hi! Yes, you can, but make sure you handwash your garment first, and then spin it inside a delicates bag or lingerie bag. Otherwise, your piece will lose its shape
I have had two sweaters slightly felt doing this, so sadly I don’t use this method anymore.
Great question! It can be done, but the risk of spinning the garment or item out of shape is a lot higher due to the size of the drum. I know it seems excessive to have a separate spin dryer for this purpose, and full-disclosure, I have one for my yarn dyeing business, but I feel like it's been SO nice to have when blocking sweaters as it cuts the drying time in half.
Hi what about the gentle maschine wash cycle for wool ( I think 30°)? I used it for garments that I bought and noticed it doesn't spin a lot.
I have a high efficiency washing machine without an agitator and has a woolen hand wash setting.... I do a load of knits on that a week for the last 4 years and it has been fine in my opinion....
Great question! Generally-speaking this setting is intended for washable wool items only so if you're knitting with a Superwash yarn, the finished piece can be washed in the machine on this setting. For those items that are knit with untreated wool yarn or garments with labels that specify hand-washing, I would avoid using this method. I've never done it so I'm not speaking from experience, but from what I know about wool and how easily it can felt in certain situations, I would avoid it.
It depends. I’ve lived in different countries and have gotten varying results. It’s not only the spin, that causes felting or other sort of damage. With wool, it’s also sudden changes in temperature. Depending on where you live, your rinse water might be significantly colder than 30 degrees celsius, especially in winter. So if your rinse water isn’t temp controlled, the rinse cycle could be felting your wool garment.
Is it normal for the smell of wool fibers to remain after washing tho? I wonder when the smell will dissipate because the person I gave a cowl to really doesn't like it. Sadness lol
Yep. This is completely normal and if it’s all-wool, chances are it won’t go away completely. 😬
I love the smell of really rustic undyed wool yarn.
Would washing the super wash knits in a zippered laundry mesh bag make a difference?
Yes, it does make a difference by limiting the dimensions that the garment to be stretched to. To clarify, if the garment is not in some kind of bag it can be stretched to multiple times the circumference of the tub simply by the action of the machine and the water. If the garment is in a bag it can only be stretched to the dimensions of the bag. In theory, if the bag is relatively small the garment can’t stretch at all - but you need to be careful that it isn’t too compressed for the washing to clean it effectively.
Soooo I just laid out my cardigan on blocking mats. I have t pins but it doesn't look like I need them. Do you always use t pins or can you just lay it there and walk away. 😅
You can totally just leave it. I have only ever used pins like twice and it was for the second Frankensweater because of the split hem and the other was a shawl. 👍
I use pins only if I want to stretch out lacework or try to coax more length/width from knitwear.
Do you search for test knitters?
I don’t block entrelac or some hats, either.
And despite anything I say here, that’s totally ok. At the end of the day, you do you.
I AM SOOOOO GLAD YOUR COVERING THIS TOPIC!!! I've sooooooo been meaning to search on your UA-cam podcast about caring for wool specifically. But I love the broader topic you're covering today. 🙌🏼❤️🫶🏼 THANK YOU!