I have a hobby sawmill and been thinking of doing a little lob cabin build. This is hands down the most informative video I've watched for the one part of the process I know the least about...the dovetail joints. Thank you so much for taking the time to post this! I'm just down the road in Jasper, GA. Just subscribed!
There was areason, the Hand Hewn logs were left round, because it helps to repewl the water, also use impella rods in the lower level logs, and under windows and doors!! You can make your on rods, cut a PVC pipe in two, and make your mixture of boric acid, in stainless steel boiler, it has to be heated to boil and make the mixture! Then tape up the 1/2 ft pipes and poor them full, let the dry , cut to 2 or 3 inches, they go e very 16 inches!! Pour water in the hole after the rod!! --Impeelas rods are very costly but worth the cost, even if you don't want to make them yourselves!!-- Best product to spray on your logs while building!! Best Product to seal your logs is TWP think its at Sherwin Williams,
@@oldbluffsawmill5235 I'm a 69 year old, life long Log home restorer, designer, Builder, starting at 9 years old on a standing 19835 hand hewn house here on the family farm still building log homes, think I've got one more in me, I also spent 20 years out in Seattle building scribe to fit, Scandinavian houses, there and Japan!! There s just something about a hand Crafted Log Home or simple cabins!! Love your layout, and presentation, I'm dislexic, so I learn best by doing or watching!! I have always just done it with a center line and a framing square!! I build with old logs and they tend to be different, I'm designing a French Style hand Hewn, which used timbers , morticed with tonges on the log ends for setaling!! Timber framed, I have a lot of shorter logs , and nothin g numbered, so out of the box thinking on this one!!
Sounds like you’ve got quite a background in log construction. This being my first one I’ve had to learn on the fly, if you know what I mean. I really appreciate your input and conversation. I’m 66 myself and plan to build a couple of A frames before I sell my sawmill. I’ve enjoyed doing this cabin, it’s hard work for one man but Ol Precious and me are just about ready to build the trusses for the interior ceiling. Thanks again for your comments and for watching. Take care and be safe.
Man that's alot of work. You sure have put alot of thought into it, You will have a nice cabin. Are you going to get some help setting those logs, I bet they will be pretty heavy?
It’s a first for me but I think me and precious can do it. It’s just gonna be slow no matter what. I’m enjoying the heck out of this though. Thanks for your comment and Merry Christmas
I just saw your post, sorry about that. Yes I have blocks at all openings and at 3’ intervals with log screws at each block. I also installed angle iron at all openings to straighten the logs and to give them vertical stability. This also allows the logs to slip up and down over time if there’s any settling. All of this makes a strong and stable structure but still allows for settling.
They worked from the center line on each end of the logs. Chinking space and notch drop can vary to compensate for different widths of the log ends. Good question, thanks for watching.
Did you say what product you are using for chinking? Perma chink or log jam..something like that? Do those products react with the foam insulation? I know when you use foam board you need to use special adhesive that wont react and dissolve the foam...just wondering if you looked into that? Whatever chemicals are in the chinking may "eat" the foam insulation board.
Good question but in heavy discussions with permachink, their product does not adhere to the polystyrene foam. It sticks to the wood. That’s why they recommend a thickness of no less than 3/8” at the point of contact with the wood. I hope that helps
@@oldbluffsawmill5235 thanks good to know! I DO like the idea of using the foam board vs foam backer rod, or old school fiberglass insulation with lathe nailed over it, seems like the foam board would do a much better job and provide better Rvalue..good luck and keep the videos coming, I love that stuff!
thanks brother. nice explanation of the setup and things to consider. good luck with your build.
Yes sir and thanks for watching
Thank you for taking your time to explain this, very helpful.. good luck on ur cabin build.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Very informative, a great video, thank you for taking the time to explain.
Thanks for watching Leslie
Thanks for sharing your knowledge ❤
Thanks for watching
Good information, well done. 👍
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching
I used jigs like that on mine. They worked great!
Mine has mortar chinking, that was a very time consuming and tedious job!
Chinking is just slow, no matter what you use. Yeah the jigs were worth the effort.
Thanks for commenting and watching.
I have a hobby sawmill and been thinking of doing a little lob cabin build. This is hands down the most informative video I've watched for the one part of the process I know the least about...the dovetail joints. Thank you so much for taking the time to post this! I'm just down the road in Jasper, GA. Just subscribed!
Thanks for that Homey and thanks for watching. Good luck with yours…..I love jasper, elijay and the dahlonega area.
Gods country
this is gold, thanks for sharing! God bless! :)
Yes sir thanks fer watching
Thank you so much for your video!!
Glad it was helpful!
thank you Señor,
muchas gracias Sir
No problema
Hey very helpful 👍👍👍
Thanks homemade
That was a lot of help. thanks
Glad it helped George
Take care and be safe
Well done.
Thanks Robert
thanks well done
Thanks for watching
There was areason, the Hand Hewn logs were left round, because it helps to repewl the water, also use impella rods in the lower level logs, and under windows and doors!! You can make your on rods, cut a PVC pipe in two, and make your mixture of boric acid, in stainless steel boiler, it has to be heated to boil and make the mixture! Then tape up the 1/2 ft pipes and poor them full, let the dry , cut to 2 or 3 inches, they go e very 16 inches!! Pour water in the hole after the rod!! --Impeelas rods are very costly but worth the cost, even if you don't want to make them yourselves!!-- Best product to spray on your logs while building!! Best Product to seal your logs is TWP think its at Sherwin Williams,
I appreciate that. I’ve already bought TWP to use. Good info, thanks for sharing and watching.
@@oldbluffsawmill5235 I'm a 69 year old, life long Log home restorer, designer, Builder, starting at 9 years old on a standing 19835 hand hewn house here on the family farm still building log homes, think I've got one more in me, I also spent 20 years out in Seattle building scribe to fit, Scandinavian houses, there and Japan!! There s just something about a hand Crafted Log Home or simple cabins!! Love your layout, and presentation, I'm dislexic, so I learn best by doing or watching!! I have always just done it with a center line and a framing square!! I build with old logs and they tend to be different, I'm designing a French Style hand Hewn, which used timbers , morticed with tonges on the log ends for setaling!! Timber framed, I have a lot of shorter logs , and nothin g numbered, so out of the box thinking on this one!!
Sounds like you’ve got quite a background in log construction. This being my first one I’ve had to learn on the fly, if you know what I mean. I really appreciate your input and conversation. I’m 66 myself and plan to build a couple of A frames before I sell my sawmill. I’ve enjoyed doing this cabin, it’s hard work for one man but Ol Precious and me are just about ready to build the trusses for the interior ceiling.
Thanks again for your comments and for watching. Take care and be safe.
Thank you. Could you please show which angle is the 12 degree angle? I mean which are the two arms of the 12 degree angle?
The angles are the only sloping surfaces
Man that's alot of work.
You sure have put alot of thought into it, You will have a nice cabin.
Are you going to get some help setting those logs, I bet they will be pretty heavy?
It’s a first for me but I think me and precious can do it. It’s just gonna be slow no matter what. I’m enjoying the heck out of this though. Thanks for your comment and Merry Christmas
where your logs meet doors and window openings are you using 2" wood blocks to shims the spaces out or just the Styrofoam block?
I have two inch blocks every 36” and at every opening
I just saw your post, sorry about that. Yes I have blocks at all openings and at 3’ intervals with log screws at each block. I also installed angle iron at all openings to straighten the logs and to give them vertical stability. This also allows the logs to slip up and down over time if there’s any settling. All of this makes a strong and stable structure but still allows for settling.
How did the original 1850s builders do it and without a jig using many different sizes of logs? Thanks
They worked from the center line on each end of the logs. Chinking space and notch drop can vary to compensate for different widths of the log ends. Good question, thanks for watching.
@@oldbluffsawmill5235I know the Bearded Carpenter teaches it, would you be willing to teach that method also?
I’m doing Appalachian style logs on my build. These are more uniform.
Is this notch called a half dovetail notch
Yes I suppose you could call it that
Did you say what product you are using for chinking? Perma chink or log jam..something like that? Do those products react with the foam insulation? I know when you use foam board you need to use special adhesive that wont react and dissolve the foam...just wondering if you looked into that? Whatever chemicals are in the chinking may "eat" the foam insulation board.
Good question but in heavy discussions with permachink, their product does not adhere to the polystyrene foam. It sticks to the wood. That’s why they recommend a thickness of no less than 3/8” at the point of contact with the wood. I hope that helps
@@oldbluffsawmill5235 thanks good to know! I DO like the idea of using the foam board vs foam backer rod, or old school fiberglass insulation with lathe nailed over it, seems like the foam board would do a much better job and provide better Rvalue..good luck and keep the videos coming, I love that stuff!