Thanks, this worked for me after much effort trying other steps to stop my creaking...but i suspect the actual cause is not related to improper torquing of the motor but the presence of dirt between the frame and the motor cover and therefore it's the cleaning, not the torquing, that stops the noise. in either case, i'm glad to have the problem resolved.
Thank you for posting this! I had the dreaded creaking and brought my bike back to the shop and shared this video. This was exactly the fixed that solved it,
@@D-Ski-Bike-Kayak-Etc-cv5tmI'm happy to hear this helped! This seems to be more common that I thought it would be, but thankfully it's an easy fix 🔧😃👍
Thanks so much for this, my brand new bike was driving me mad with creaking when pedalling and I narrowed it down to the motor cover area and I came across this video and it sorted it out immediately! Great video timing
Hi Dan. Thanks for the video. What is the size of the 2 bolts holding the cover? When removing the crank arm you mentioned it’s a reverse thread but from the direction you turned the bolt it looked like it was normal thread ie anti clockwise to remove it. Was it? I have the Double chain ring 2x Shimano cranks. Do you think it would be easier to remove both cranks? As a side note, I was taught never to use my torque wrenches to unscrew bolts as it can damage the wrenche’s calibration.
Hey @Tchairdjian! 👋 Yep, the cover bolts are 2.5mm allen. You're spot on with your two comments-the thread is indeed normal! Funny thing, in my original script, I had 'counter-clockwise motion' in there, but it somehow got lost in translation 😂. As for the wrench, 💯 agreed. The truth is, this is the longest wrench I’ve got, so I figured I’d make the most of that leverage. To avoid any calibration issues while unscrewing, I use an old trick: I set the wrench tension way higher than needed 😉. Probably not the best practice out there, but hey, it works! 😅 About the crank arms, I generally avoid removing both since they’re meant to be aligned in a specific position on the spindle. There should be marks to guide you, but on my bike, those are almost invisible, so I prefer to only take off one crank arm and save myself the hassle. If you want a little more room to work, you can unscrew the drive-side crank arm without fully removing it. That’ll give you more space while still keeping things in place. Hope this helps! 👍
@@danbee.cycling thanks. 2.5mm hex… very fragile and you’re right they won’t need too much torque. If I ever need to remove the drive crank, maybe I’ll need to mark the position with a felt pen. Also, maybe the drive side is the one with the reverse thread? Or are they both normal?
Have you tested the creo 2 I’m in the market and can’t decide between a trek domane hp+ the newer model with 85nm torque & the newest creo 2 I know the trek is more powerful and longer battery life but I’m having trouble picking a side I love the mastermind tcu for specialized cause I have a turbo levo I plan on of if I get the creo changing the tires for road tires I don’t plan to do much gravel riding on the creo but if I do Ill have the tires for it I hear great things about both more the creo mainly cause of marketing and the trek domane hp+ is discontinued but I tested a 2020 trek domane hp+ an enjoyed it I haven’t got to test the creo yet I plan to do it soon before jumping on the purchase
Hey@@markstjean8622 ! When I was in the market I was actually entertaining two options only: the Domane+ and the Canyon Grail:ON. Turns out the Creo 2 entry level and Grail:ON were not that far away in terms of price, but I was privileging the full power motor of the Grail at the expense of weight. But when I had the chance to get the Domane+ at a good price I just changed my mind and went for the lightest option . The Creo 2 is a great bike for sure (especially the entry level models which IMHO are much better than Domane+ entry level for a similar price). I guess is a matter of which model you like most. I don't remember the D+ HQ range extender options to compare, but I have the feeling the newer Domane model is a better option going forward in terms of finding parts and software updates of the motor. I hope this helps!
Thanks, this worked for me after much effort trying other steps to stop my creaking...but i suspect the actual cause is not related to improper torquing of the motor but the presence of dirt between the frame and the motor cover and therefore it's the cleaning, not the torquing, that stops the noise. in either case, i'm glad to have the problem resolved.
@mcg404 Glad to hear this helped!
Thank you for posting this! I had the dreaded creaking and brought my bike back to the shop and shared this video. This was exactly the fixed that solved it,
@@D-Ski-Bike-Kayak-Etc-cv5tmI'm happy to hear this helped! This seems to be more common that I thought it would be, but thankfully it's an easy fix 🔧😃👍
Thanks so much for this, my brand new bike was driving me mad with creaking when pedalling and I narrowed it down to the motor cover area and I came across this video and it sorted it out immediately! Great video timing
Hey @danbarnard2963! I'm glad to hear the video was helpful. Ride On!
👍
Hi Dan. Thanks for the video.
What is the size of the 2 bolts holding the cover?
When removing the crank arm you mentioned it’s a reverse thread but from the direction you turned the bolt it looked like it was normal thread ie anti clockwise to remove it. Was it?
I have the Double chain ring 2x Shimano cranks. Do you think it would be easier to remove both cranks?
As a side note, I was taught never to use my torque wrenches to unscrew bolts as it can damage the wrenche’s calibration.
Hey @Tchairdjian! 👋 Yep, the cover bolts are 2.5mm allen. You're spot on with your two comments-the thread is indeed normal! Funny thing, in my original script, I had 'counter-clockwise motion' in there, but it somehow got lost in translation 😂.
As for the wrench, 💯 agreed. The truth is, this is the longest wrench I’ve got, so I figured I’d make the most of that leverage. To avoid any calibration issues while unscrewing, I use an old trick: I set the wrench tension way higher than needed 😉. Probably not the best practice out there, but hey, it works! 😅
About the crank arms, I generally avoid removing both since they’re meant to be aligned in a specific position on the spindle. There should be marks to guide you, but on my bike, those are almost invisible, so I prefer to only take off one crank arm and save myself the hassle.
If you want a little more room to work, you can unscrew the drive-side crank arm without fully removing it. That’ll give you more space while still keeping things in place.
Hope this helps! 👍
@@danbee.cycling thanks. 2.5mm hex… very fragile and you’re right they won’t need too much torque. If I ever need to remove the drive crank, maybe I’ll need to mark the position with a felt pen. Also, maybe the drive side is the one with the reverse thread? Or are they both normal?
@@Tchairdjian both normal! 👍👍
Have you tested the creo 2 I’m in the market and can’t decide between a trek domane hp+ the newer model with 85nm torque & the newest creo 2 I know the trek is more powerful and longer battery life but I’m having trouble picking a side I love the mastermind tcu for specialized cause I have a turbo levo I plan on of if I get the creo changing the tires for road tires I don’t plan to do much gravel riding on the creo but if I do Ill have the tires for it I hear great things about both more the creo mainly cause of marketing and the trek domane hp+ is discontinued but I tested a 2020 trek domane hp+ an enjoyed it I haven’t got to test the creo yet I plan to do it soon before jumping on the purchase
Hey@@markstjean8622 ! When I was in the market I was actually entertaining two options only: the Domane+ and the Canyon Grail:ON. Turns out the Creo 2 entry level and Grail:ON were not that far away in terms of price, but I was privileging the full power motor of the Grail at the expense of weight. But when I had the chance to get the Domane+ at a good price I just changed my mind and went for the lightest option . The Creo 2 is a great bike for sure (especially the entry level models which IMHO are much better than Domane+ entry level for a similar price). I guess is a matter of which model you like most. I don't remember the D+ HQ range extender options to compare, but I have the feeling the newer Domane model is a better option going forward in terms of finding parts and software updates of the motor. I hope this helps!