Main Bearing Cap Bolts with a Torque Multiplier, Let's Try It?!
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- In this video we are doing main bearings, but not the way I'm used to doing them. Thanks for watching. @AdeptApe on Venmo or AdeptApe@yahoo.com on PayPal for donations, thank you so much for supporting the channel!
Amazon Affiliate Links to the tools used in the video:
OTC Torque Multiplier: amzn.to/4bi48Eb
Milwaukee 1/2” Impact: amzn.to/3WQW7kS
Surprisingly that 1/2" Milwaukee would remove those bolts! What do you think of the torque multiplier? Thanks for watching. @AdeptApe on Venmo or AdeptApe@yahoo.com on PayPal for donations, thank you so much for supporting the channel!
Amazon Affiliate Links to the tools used in the video:
OTC Torque Multiplier: amzn.to/4bi48Eb
Milwaukee 1/2” Impact: amzn.to/3WQW7kS
RETURN THAT ONE AND GO FOR THE 5 TO ONE JOSH MAKE LIFE EVEN EASIER.
I believe it... these latest cordless impacts are wild. I have a Dewalt 961 that will either back the bolt out or break the socket, it hasn't been stalled yet.
@@Oddman1980 I THINK YOUR MISSING THE POINT . YOUR RIGHT IN WHAT YOU SAY . BUT I THINK THE RESON JOSH GOT THAT TOOL WAS WHAT IF THERE IS NO POWER TOOL TO BE USED . AND YOU HAD TO DO IT BY HAND . IM SHURE THAT WAS WHAT JOSH MENT . OF COURSE I COULD BE WRONG.
Try the H.O. batteries, they bring out the full potential of the milwaukee impacts and high amp tools.
if your looking for non impact have a look at rad torque systems gear we use them at the refinery i work at they work well and last well for the hard life we give them they can also be set to a torque (don't know how accurate they are) but might be worth a look at the battery ones
I can't believe I sat here with absolute intrigue for 20min watching Josh pull 14 bolts 🤣
that was painful
I was like “holy shit I’m 25 mins in already”
Didn’t even notice my whole fatty J was already almost gone lmaoo
I was thinking he was going to say well they sure stretched those bolts and now the block has damaged threads, but I guess not.
wouldn't have lasted long at the Cat dealership I worked for !!!!!!!!!
@@carlmason4153 I mean, with air tools the job would've been much quicker and easier. He stated the shop doesn't have air
The Screaming Sheep it's my favorite part of each video it's used in. 😆
I like how you can now talk more live in the shop without voice over! Positive impact
I agree💯👊
I don't think he was refraining from talking in the shop due to sensitive information, or feeling weird talking underneath a truck within earshot of other workers, I think he did voice-overs in post production because of the tremendous noise in a busy shop, and he probably felt that anything he was saying that he wanted viewers to hear was being drowned out by the cacophony of background noise. That said, yeah, I do like to hear him shoot from the hip on what he is observing at the time the action is happening, but there are still times when a producer has time to digest what the video captured, and add in afterthoughts about what may not have occurred to him while the video was shooting.
Hi Josh, thanks for the great video. I’ve been a Heavy Equipment Mechanic for 40 years and used torque multipliers a lot.
In my opinion, a 4:1 ratio would be the minimum for what you are doing there. When you get really rich you can buy the hy-torq hydraulic torque multiplier. Same principle as what you are using but uses a electric/hydraulic power pack to run it. Great for torquing CAT D11 track master link bolts 💪
Have done main bearings in a few Cat 992 loaders. 27 litre engine with the crankshaft well above your head standing up under the machine. Used a 4 to 1 multiplier to retorque after the bearing installation. That's a lot of iron to hold up over your head before there's enough load to hold it all in place. Thank God I'm retired now. I enjoy your videos a lot.
The cheap nut buddy torque multipliers they sell for like 100 bucks are great for this, it's unbelievable the torque they put out, something like 70 to 1 ratio. With large cat excavator cylinders we use to struggle undoing the large Allen bolts that hold the gland in, usually pulling a large breaker bar with a forklift, and usually a big bang and stuff flying occasionally. The nut buddy turned with a ratchet, since you can't spin the handle next to the rod, worked perfectly with no big windup release. Even used it a few times to break free truck lugs out 1 inch gun wouldn't break free, it did it not problem
I figured somebody might mention one of those and yes they do work well! Torque multipliers aren’t right for every job obviously but sometimes you absolutely need them. I had a couple of really fancy ones at the last place a worked that had angle indicators on them and a digital display for showing you the torque in ft lbs or Nm. I believe they were around 40-1 reduction and really heavy duty. One was 3/4” output at around 1100-1200 ft lbs output torque and the other was a 1” at around 3200 ft lbs output torque.
I used to work at a case ih manufacturing plant and we used some low speed high torque pneumatic guns with a reaction bar to torque down lug nuts mostly but we had some for other things too. Anyways we had a new guy once that went to torque lug nuts down on his first day and he grabbed the reaction bar like it was a handle and squeezed the trigger and it jammed his hand into the other lug like the reaction bar was meant to do! 🤣🤣🤣 he only did that once!
By my estimation, main bolts are close to 600 lb/ft. People think I can pull 200 no problem. Laying on a creeper, with your ratchet handle at 45 degrees, you’ll be hard pressed to break those bolts loose. Torque multiplier’s work great, but you’ll loose almost a full rotation taking the backlash out of the gears. Love what you’re doing, welcome to being overworked and undertooled!
That was my 2c, it's not hard to generate 200lb on a lever when you are standing up and can pull/push up and down, on your back it's a whole different kettle of fish. It can be done, but it takes some weird mechanic yoga to get yourself braced right against a frame rail/axle/tire ect.
Mains are nowhere near 600lb/ft on any CAT, Detroit, Cummins, etc. I work on all of them the highest I've ever had to torque any main bolts to was around 375lb/ft.
@@JaGGeR- Next time you do a Cat, set your torque wrench to 550lb/ft and use it to do your 120 degrees. if you can get it done, without the wrrench releasing, I'll get on my knees and worship the ground you walk on.
@@edkeniston4786 you get a long breaker bar that sticks out passed the truck and/or machinery from underneath, have 1 person hold the wrench on the bolt, and torque it to spec. By yourself you can set something up that is tall enough to hold the wrench in place then get out and torque it to spec. I've done both. You can get on your knees now.
Very heavenly music. Beethoven is a friend indeed. ½ impact is a MONSTER. Pretty great DOTW. Learning the curve of the torque adapter is something new. Cheers Josh. Happy weekend 🔩🔧👊💪👍👊💯
Thank you Jeri, definitely a learning curve for sure.
I bought a torque multiplier off the jungle site for 80 beans, it absolutely reeks of chinesium but it’s got a 51:1 gear reduction planetary gearset inside it. With a standard 10” 1/2 drive ratchets d the 1/2-3/4 adapter you can break loose wheel nuts torqued to 800 lb/ft like they’re not even there. There’s a lot of slop in it and for industrial tools you get what you pay for, but for the price this thing is great and hasn’t given up on me yet! Plan to use it for main bolts as well.
That's how I change tires on the side of the road, I carry a bottle jack and a spare tire on a rim, I have a 3:1 torque multiplier that I use mostly to torque tighten main bolts and head bolts on Cummins ISX, my 3/4" Ingersoll impact won't touch them, 300# plus 90 degrees and it's easier to pull with 3:1 than the original torque to 300
I use a 1" impact to get tires off my bus. To get it to work well with a limited air supply, a use a portable air tank fed from a 3/8" hose from a small compressor, with a 1/2" outlet. It provides a few seconds of high flow to break the lugs loose. It's slow because i need to wait for the compressor to top off both tanks before doing the next lug, but it works.
Yeah, you need higher volume of air not so much higher pressure. Pig tanks make a huge difference, plus higher flowing fittings and hose! 👍🏻👌🏻🛠️🔧
Use thenTorque multiplier and the Milwaukee combination
Use twerk multiplier in the Milwaukee combined together.😮
That is a Great tip, thank you!!!
IN MY MIND YOU ARE A PERFECT MECANIC AND THATS WHY I ADMIRE YOU
As a died-in-the-wool, classically trained musician, I approve of your music selection wholeheartedly. You seem to have an innate sense of musical drama! (long time watcher, first ever comment).
I use a cheap seal puller, the type that has the two hooks on the head, sharpen them up with a small round file and it bits into the bearings and rolls them out easy. been doing it that way for the last 23 years.
You need to get a Swench! I've ended up with 3 different sizes for the different jobs we do. I keep a 625 Swench in my truck to do Budd wheels 1 handed with no power or air. A 750 for most big stuck fasteners and a 1000 for dismantling railroad equipment.
I know the packaging says don’t put an impact on it but we use a 3-1 multiplier and a d handle Milwaukee to tighten and loosen our liner bolts in some of our ball mills. For reference they’re a 1 7/8” shank bolt, torque spec is almost 1500 ft/lbs
I was impressed with the Milwaukee! You need one of the multipliers used for crab bolt removal on the EMD’s 😊
Torque Multipliers are great tools to have, especially when you run into bolts that are breaking tools instead of you breaking the bolt. I have 3:1 and a 7:1 in my box but I normally use them to get stubborn bedframe bolts out cause I don't feel like trying to fix a "accidental" torch hole in a new truck bed 😅before the boss gets back.
I believe the extra divots on the liner are for better heat transfer. More surface area At the top where the highest temp would be during combustion..
I laugh every time at the screaming goat
It makes me wonder if that is what Josh actually sees or thinks when he encounters a Situation Lol !!
One trick. If you are not getting anywhere with an impact gun. Try a heavy socket. It works sometimes.
I used my new Milwaukee 2967 on its first wheel seal job yesterday, it was amazing its power over that old standard.
When I worked for Cummins in the 70's they had a policy to ball mike every bearing. I found two shells that had low spots.
Yes those new 1/2 high torques are no joke mine had no problem taking the front wheel off of a 750 Ford when I tightened it back down it was right there at 450 ft lb and it doesn't have the forge battery
I would look up the Torque Test Channel if you are looking for anything to bust bolts with.
Whenever I hear a mechanic say “interesting,” i get really nervous!
Wait till your doctor says it!
In my truck shop, we use the half inch Milwaukee impact 95% of the time and never turn the air compressor on, we only have two batteries for it, life is simple, stay strong
In the middle of making a comment it switched to a new video and left the comment in this video, but nice van by the way
I have a torque multiplier and use it all the time, I never impact tighten my bolts, seems like an easy way to rip the threads out of the block, stay salty
Always used 3/4” breaker bar with a few feet of “cheater” pipe. Worked well for
us. 855 Cummins so may be the difference. Ref. main bearing bolts.
I was skeptical about switching to Milwaukee from snap-on I'm still going to keep my snap on 3/4 to remove my truck lugs and those hard to get to large truck bolts. But I was very impressed of the Milwaukee's hydraulic impact. You might want to look into that
Is time for a gofundme for compressor for Adept Ape service van?
Hi Josh, as others have likely already said with the 3/4" impact you need the M18 Red lithium high output HD12.0 Batteries to get the most out of it. Know this from personal experience. With the right battery it is a really good unit. With torque multiplies over the years I have found the smaller units to be less effective than larger units. Just my experience using them.
I really like the one I've got, it's the same one CAT lists. 18.5:1 and it ratchets so you don't lose any progress you've made when you swing the ratchet. It's a lot bulkier and heavier than what you've got so it probably wouldn't work or would be more of a pain to hold up.
Heavy diesel mechanic here, we use a 5:1. Works great for anything upto 1200nm. However I do no have an automatic torque multiplier cordless gun. It's 8k worth of wizardry, that does upto 1000nm at the pull of a trigger, stops itself at a preset torque that you choose. Absolutely the best piece or equipment I've ever used. Called Rad b-rad, look it up you won't be disappointed
Hey Josh, I hope you see this. Someone already posted about an electric torque gun. It can be a pricey investment. But the investment for not abusing your body is wonderful. My company has them to address a lug nut issue (I work for a large private fleet with issues). I started using the torque gun to torque u-bolts to 500+ ft.lbs. it has honestly been heavenly to not destroy my body with manual wrenching. It's been hugely successful in high torque needs. Buy once cry once, but my body is happy that tool exists.
I work a lot on construction equipment, and I use Chicago pneumatic cp611, and every once in a while, cp6135 and I was able to take off every bolt I came across
For High Torque placed on Fasteners usually above 1000 ft lbs some type of Multiplier is necessary.
3/4" Torque wrenches stop at 600lbs 1" stop at 1000lbs
Torque multiplication assisted by Hydraulic or Pneumatic pressure is pretty standard.
I run a Pneumatic TORCUP 6000 that at 30 psi will do 2000ft lbs all day long.
HYTORG TORCUP RADGUN are all brands we use on the Mining trucks and their components.
Sheesh. What part on those trucks would require 2000 or more pound ft of torque that just boggles my mind....
I've ran PIA kits with good results, most people can't afford a premium cat rebuild kit, but those people usually don't pay someone to work on their trucks, those ribs help in cooling the cylinder, more common to see in Detroit Diesel engines
Your in a whole different universe now but continuing with what you do best adepting to what you have and soon making each job better
My trick to get main bearings out and in is bend a cotter pin in tee stuck in side the oil galley then roll the crank. Suprisingly gentle on the. Bearings
I have used torque multipliers successfully on several various things and one thing I've found is if you're pulling the wrench horizontally( in the position you were Josh) you actually put less force on your tool cause you're trying to balance or hold everything then if you are turning the wrench that's in a vertical position(torquing wheel nuts for example). It's not always possible but if there's another person around having them help hold stuff helps a lot
Josh, maybe this was already mentioned but cat has a tool that inserts into the crankshaft oil galley that will spin the top man bearing in/out while you bar the engine over.
I was using my leg to apply as much force as possible into a huge torque multiplier. I was trying to get a nut of a diff input shaft for a semi truck. My foot slipped and the anchoring arm of the tool sprung back and struck my other leg. Took a month to fully recover. Was limping for 2 weeks.
I have a snap on 4 to 1 multiplier 1/2 in 3/4drive out. I love it. and the snap on 3/4 electric impact I haven't come across anything they won't Crack loose
We used a 10X torque multiplier to tighten bolts on a steam generator in t nuclear power plant. Torque spec was 1250 lbft. We had to strap the reaction arms to a pipe to get it to hold.
On the upper bearing, I was told to put a cotter pin in the oil hole and spin the crank around.
1200lbs of torque is mind boggling and intimidating to me. What size bolts were they? Thanks for sharing.
I've seen "crank bearing removal tools" that are pretty much a t shaped bolt (but no threads) that goes into the journal oil hole, then it will rotate out the bearing shell as you bar over the engine.
One inch torque multi 64 to one 3500 ft/lb on sale at AMAZON ! And yes a one inch impact in the tool box always comes in handy. Great video thanks
There is a tool that slides into the main oil galley of the crankshaft that you can rotate up and around that pulls The main bearings out for the upper shell
I believe he's talked about that in a video when he was at the dealer
Enjoy your vids ..Your a darn good meticulous mechanic & u make ur vids humorous to... bud..Good job
Don't want to say it But, got to suck it up . Get off the creeper ,brace your legs against something, and pull with that Fancy Snap on breaker bar. If it breaks they will give you a new one. That guy wants his truck done tomorrow!!!!
It's a very good video, Josh. I'm watching from Jamaica. Keep up the good job, bro.
Had a tramac demolition hammer that the dealership messed up and I had to go in after them. Called in dealer road mechanic to assist and supply parts damaged by their idiot. 4 foot bolt 1-5/8" thread. 400foot pounds plus 180 degrees. Dealer mechanic stated double stack torque multiplier and a custom concrete insert in 8" floor to tighten properly. He did not bring them and damn near shit when I put a cardboard wedge in the compressor switch to push the compressor into O MY GOD. Ingersal rand 261 3/4 impact work's wonders at 195 psi. DO NOT TELL ME THERE IS ONLY 1 WAY TO DO IT. May be schetcey but works.
My man🤙
Josh I use a torque multiplier in certain situations and it is useful but it takes time to learn how to use it and when it’s best to use. I can say laying on your back is not one of those times, also you only have the three to 1 they make way higher ratios. Now that you are in the field you are going to have a huge learning curve for things like this I can tell you battery guns are the way to go. The marine motors I do,have the same size bolt and are torqued to 250ftlbs and a 90 degree and the 1/2 snap on does it no problem. We have never used an impact driver to tighten them but they do break loose heads and mains no problem. I will send you a link on your email but there is a battery gun that will do everything, it torques and turns the bolt for you. It is very expensive but when your in the field your body will give up quick if you don’t grab things like this to help you. Lion battery torque is what you need to look up and just so you know the 1/2 drive is all you need it goes to 750ftlbs and that is way higher then our mains and heads. Everyone thinks the torque turns double the torque but it actually is no where close . We have tested this many times. For example our heads are 110 ftlbs and 3 90s and if I put torque wrench on 180 it will turn the 3 90s before it clicks.
Manual and hydraulic powered multipliers are very helpful. Have used both on bigger and lot higher torques. Agree impacts should not be used to tighten to a specific torque requirement unless you don't mind doing it over and over again. Thank you and keep up the good work
My boss didn't allow torque plus with the impact. We did the 120 with a torque wrench at 600 ft lb and be right on 120. We did rods at either 200 or 300 for the 120 degrees.
Your Milwaukee fuel 3/4 impact will perform MUCH better and do your main bolt yield with a HD12 ah battery. Also i generally use the torque multiplier on driveline work because they seem to flex quite a bit and require a long throw of the ratchet but sometimes something is better than nothing.
Try the Makita XGT 40v 3/4 drive impact gun. (980ft lb) of torque. Its got a lil more pop than the milwaukee.I think you will be impressed with the makita. I own a semi and its hard to find any bolt it wont break free.
Makita sucks donkey ass
I've built dozens of engines with a multiplier. From ISX to 3516s. Mine has around 30% loss of input torque, but its pretty damn close to that.
I've got a 2nd hand Snap-On X4 torque multiplier, good for a 1000 ft/ib
One of the best tools I ever purchased and you use them far more frequently then you'd think once you've got one.
I use multipliers simular to that on big railroad engines such as emds and alcos they work pretty good 20:1 multiplier
I know this is a bit anecdotal, but I routinely change the 1 1/2 bolts that hold my feller buncher teeth on with a Milwaukee 1/2 impact using a swivel head and a 2 inch extension. They are pretty powerful!
I flatten the top of a cotter pin, put it in the oil gallery hole, and turn the engine over. Turns them right out.
The Milwaukee is even more impressive with the new battery The forge is awesome!!!!!
Pipe, you need a longer handle..... Now that's a torque multiplier
I’ve turned them by hand with a 5 ft breaker bar for too long on 3406’s and other truck engines. “Don’t take the tire off I need somewhere to stand”
I remember playing with Cummins 855's doing head, rod and main bolts with a 1 inch torque wrench. It took lots of effort on the end of that 5 ft long torque wrench to do heads and mains. 650 ft/lb comes to mind. My thought is you hadn't put over 200 ft/lbs on it until the end. You needed longer bars or more reduction
Torque multipliers are banned at many minesites in Australia. People have been killed/injured when they slip off. So just make sure it ain’t going to slip when you use it.
Get a cordless high torque gun like a BRad, hitorque, or atlas copco brand. But be warned. They’re very expensive. These cordless hi torque tools are used extensively in mining for loosening and torquing with angle in the one press of the trigger. You set your initial torque and punch in your angle, press the trigger and it’s done.
I have an old Bonney 4 to 1 torque multiplier I have had to use on removing lug nuts. In automotive applications it is rare to need it but indispensable when I pull it out.
The torque multiplier is the only way I’m able to pulls rims on the side of the road. It’s small and fits in my semi with a bottle jack.
Loving the videos Josh. I imagine you will have many moments like this as you go on your journey. At least you will know what tools to buy.
Sunex makes very good quality sockets. Made with 100% premium American steel. I wish they were made here in the states but 3/4” and 1” drive sockets can get very pricey in a hurry.
I’ve spent a majority of my career working cat 3516 engines and ones of similar size. You need to find a J gun or sometimes called a rad gun. It will fit into tight spaces. It is calibrated with air pressure to a certain torque spec. So you just have to adjust pressure at the regulator. My 1 inch gun will torque to 1800 ft lbs. and it break a bolt loose like a champ. Even with a small amount of air. It’s kinda expensive but it is so worth it when you have to do things like track pads and final drives.
Torque multiplier to me was using a breaker bar with a 5' cheater over the handle. Never knew a tool like this existed. Could have saved me time taking 5th wheel and gooseneck hitches out of trucks.
Right me if I'm wrong but I think you can use an impact on the torque multipliers and they also make multipliers that have an electric or air motor on them like an impact also. I've seen them used to torque lug nuts on garbage trucks
I've used a torque multiplier on lug nuts, worked fine there.
I have a 4 to 1 3/4 to 1 inch that would pull those bolts but when i use it upside down its a 2 man job one to pull on the wrench and one to hold the tool in place
Use thr multiplier with the impact. It works pretty good onsiezed and cross threaded bolts. Should make it easy work for those bolts.
Josh, just a couple words of advice from an old mechanic, always check your ring gaps in your liners, never install a used rod that you don’t know anything about, never reuse rod bolts. Remember your liable for all this stuff if it goes south they’ll blame you. You’re working for yourself. You have to protect yourself .
Thank you.
Been wrenching since I was 14 and still learning something from everyone, but you Josh are a whole different breed, hats off to you sir keep up the good stuff
you and me both Blackmarkettrucking4821, started tearing down Briggs Stattons, then car truck gas engines at a junk yard for $3 each around age 13, with one socket set and a breaker bar and sledge with steel rod for a handle.
I use a 4 to 1 torque multiplier to remove/install flywheel and vibration damper bolts from cat 3500 series engines. That is also not easy.
My previous employer had a 14 to 1 multiplier. That one made is easy you could use a 3/8drive torque wrench to tighten the vibration damper hub on the crackshaft
Milwaukee 1/2" drive high torque impact wrenches have the power. My two favorites are the 2663-20 and the 2763-20. Both are good impact wrenches.
Used multiplier on head bolts on several occasions, those damn E torx...
I own 2 tourqe multiplyers made in germany pretty good made by elora tools in germany they are 3/4" to 1" drive i use to break big bolts loose but some of the big hydraulic cylinders nuts are crazy tight
I utilize a torque multiplier with a small torque wrench..one of the best tools I’ve ever purchased
I work with rock crushers, we have M42 12.9 bolts that torque to over 6500Nm, torque multipliers are the only way to go
Great videos man. Keep em coming.
The extra ridges in the liner add surface area. More liner contacting jacket water, at the hottest point in liner. Should cool better.
When using an Milwaukee impact at it's edge of performance, the (M18) 12.0ah batteries DO make it hit harder. The more powerful the tool, the more difference a 12.0 battery makes I have found.
My 1" gun is gutless with a 5.0 battery.
A 12.0 turns my already strong 2767 into a beast.
Also, a socket that fits both the impact and bolt tightly can help get over the edge of getting a bolt or nut loose.
I worked in a dealer truck shop 30 some years ago. One Friday afternoon a fellow mechanic installed new rod and main bearings in a Big Cam Cummins. After the truck left I found all the new upper main bearings in the garage can. 😁 I wonder if the next mechanic ever found it. I would be a pissed customer
Lol, well hopefully he kept the old uppers in there 🤣. Definitely not a good idea to reuse journal bearings. I bet he beat that flat rate though.
Anybody have good success with a particular brand of paint marker. I believe that's what they are called. Thanks in advance.
Ribs on liner at top for better heat transfer.
Another Great Video! Noob question here. I was taught to use a heavy weight motor oil to lubricate head bolts and main bolts, because the actual torque changes ( increases) with the addition of lubricant. That is what you see on the torque wrench is less than the actual torque (Explained on the YT >Torque test channel< vid 'your using a torque wrench wrong MythBusting' They were talking about the addition of Anti-Seize, they did tests which confirmed it - Kind of scary, especially if your working with aluminum. How were you taught - what is the rule of thumb?
Look like ur going to need a 1 inch Milwaukee
Already ordered that puppy.
I'd watched a farmer and a friend of his locally in a farm shop working on the farmers Cat C15 doing a rebuild and he never owned a large impact so they were using a breaker bar with a snipe pipe and one was holding the socket up while the other was reefing on the snipe to break those bolts loose. Just about need the tire off on one side and holding the axle up with a jack stand to have better access for that method .... or a big assed impact gun ( that's light in weight ! )
Next time home depot advertises the 6.0 HO milwaukee batteries on sale, get yourself some. The perfomance difference between the normal 5.0's and the 6.0 HO's is staggering.
Proven on the TTC youtube channel.
When we raced Trans Am, our pin drive wheel nuts needed 350ft/lbs. We had a 5ft, 1” drive torque wrench to tighten them… but you can’t use that to break them loose. The Paoli gun was good to 3450 ft/lbs… but we only carried so much nitrogen… so it was used only in the hot pits. Klutch made a wonderful 1:64 torque multiplier with multiple reaction arms and you could use that with an electric impact. I was amazed at what it would break loose. Take that one back and see if you can find a Klutch.
I have a 3 to 1 torque multiplier that mainly gets used for pinion nut and yoke nuts. Mine is 3/4 in and 1” out put
e rad is the go, can dial in your torq settings too
I think the multiplier is the right tool for the right job . . . but not for every job.
The ridges and Ruffles on the liners are Cavatation Collectors Lol
You need a 5 times torque multiplier. I have a 5 times and a 15 times multiplier and not very often I need the 15 times multiplier. I also have the 1/2” Milwaukee impact and they are a beast.
In the cat manual and the Cummings manual they both say that you can use a 3/4 to 1 in impact gun to tighten your Mains and I've always used you think you're going to torque 600 plus foot pounds with a breaker bar laying on your back on a creeper that has wheels on it good luck you're a better man than I am and I've been doing this for 45 years
Josh, yer going to have to build a boot support that bolts to the engine where the pan bolts. Give ya some leverage.
funniest video in months, thanks dude