We have been using poly pipe underground in my family's business since the 60's, never once had one fail and we bury it sometimes 8-10 feet deep, always use 160-200 lb pipe and it will last forever.
I’ve seen them fail a few times. It always was a tiny pebble, wedged between the pipe and a big rock, another pipe…let’s say you lay the pipe on top of a big rock, the tiny pebble wedged underneath, the weight of the whole pipe will lie on that pebble and wear a pinhole in it.
Better of using either copper or P.E, the was a easy shot with the grundy, that's the normal size grundy i use but i also use a 4/5" grundys for 110mm pipes
AI little suspicious though about the leak in the blue poly because the soil wasn't wet under the leak until they started filming. I'm just saying........
Dear Mr. Question man, normally a standard warranty is 1-5 Years however we typically will pass on the manufacturer warranty. With the pex wirsbo its an additional 20 years on there pipe, so we pass this on to our customers. I think the consumers agree that this additional 20 years is a added bonus for using there pipe. This new pex is the hybrid to the standard polyethylene pipe of the past. So far it looks like this pipe dominates the market here in the USA today in quality/performance. Thnxs hope this helps
Love to see if that thing would get even ten feet in my soil, I'd love that thing if it can. Driving trenchers can't cut it; usually comes down to explosives and jackhammers.
Dear Wolf, your right not much works well in real hard pan/rock soil. Open trench may be the best option for you. Sounds like you know your stuff, thnx for your input.
You're starting out with what looked like a 3/4" soft copper service line from the city.. They're only going to get 3/4" of water, doesn't matter how much pressure is on it.
I thought Wirsbo/Uponor PEX requires a separate ProPEX ring on the outside at the fitting end (where you are using the expansion tool) for any connections. Did they change their specs? Otherwise, it'd be interesting to know how you aim that mole. Neat stuff.
Absolutely Andrew, we normally will put in sleeving when working in rocky/debris soil conditions. Also many cities we work in require sleeving when boring underground. Your right it has many added values with such a minimal added cost. Thnx for the input.
how did you hit the destination so accurately? I'm assuming you calculated the angle by the height and distance... but say you came up with precisely 10.5degrees. wouldn't a rock or something throw it off? example if you hit a big Rock 5 feet in and it throws the mole off 1" you'd end up off by a foot or two, no?
Plastic pipe is good but the problem with all these plastic pipe replacements is you end up losing a good grounding electrode which is vital to protecting homes from electrical line surges and lightning strikes. People will start realizing this soon... The code will change where you will have to run a bonding conductor between the two metal pipes.
That poly wasnt hooked up properly, looking at it closer, if they had used a pacjoint coupling and put a metal sleeve in the poly, i bet it wouldnt have been leaking. It may have not been deep enough in the first place, thats just my 2 cents.
Not a good install. #1 pipe is only like 1 feet below ground and installer should sleeve the plastic pipe with metal or cement to protect it from yard work.
why would you stop at the house? 2 feet into the house and you have a much bigger water line, and then the customer can then choose to install bigger lines in there house
Neat tool, but I don't think your mole thing is going to replace a backhoe, here in the boulder-filled soils of Vermont. Best we can do is hope not to find bedrock and restore the front yard after the fact. Yay. Expensive, but unavoidable.
I would never put that plastic crap behind my walls or under my property. Soft copper for in-ground applications and rigid copper for inside structure all the way.
whatever. copper reacts chemically with the earth, so it always at risk for developing pinhole leaks. I don't care either way, whatever the customer wants...
We have some areas where soft copper won't last 10 years before the ground eats a hole in it. I would much rather have pex/poly/pvc/anything but metal pipes.
Both plastic and copper have there applications, Type K soft copper is the best choice but when you have a longer line we try to avoid having a lot of splices. Also customer determines the final choice, 1" copper comes in a maximum 100" and the plastic 1" IPS up to a 500' roll. Soil conditions also play a part in determining the best pipe for the project.
Dear Hector, the tool we used was a grundomat 2" mole I believe. However we have a large selection of sizes/models at our disposal. If I were to recommend a mole for water service I would probably say the 2-1/2" hammerhead mole with the active head if you have harder/rocky soil. Standard sandy based soil the non active head mole works well. You can contact your local ditchwitch dealer for more info on purchasing one. Hope this info helps
Ok,..I know what a mainline leak looks like. Even a pin hole one. Running 24 7? Come on guys. At 1.17,...nothing .Cut scene . Then re show the same area. At 1.29. Leaking pretty good.Where was that leak in the first scene . And all the water from the,...24 7 leak? Hummm
What difference does it make when you're tying in the old ass galvanized and where's the house shut off with the hose bib. Bet you guys charge close to 20,000 for that.
+John Puccetti Regardless of your opinion on PEX, it's absolutely incorrect to state that it's never been studied. A quick search on google scholar for "PEX drinking water migration" shows hundreds of peer-reviewed articles in the last ten years, including several recent reviews which cover PEX extensively. eg, Contaminant Migration From Polymeric Pipes Used in Buried Potable Water Distribution Systems: A Review (dx.doi.org/10.1080/10643389.2011.627005) Are There Health Risks from the Migration of Chemical Substances from Plastic Pipes into Drinking Water? A Review (dx.doi.org/10.1080/10807030802235219)
+Phillip Cothran I fully believe you are right, if it was in a warm climate area where the frost line would be very shallow then this would be acceptable but since this is Seattle, Washington the frost line should be at least forty eight inches. These installers are not professional or experienced at all.
+Virgil2U Notice that the city's supply line was not very deep. They don't have much of an option to change the depth of the pipe they installed. I doubt the city/utility would come out and install a new line that is deeper. It seems the inspector also approved of their work. I agree that it seems too shallow, but calling them inexperienced over YT seems like a stupid conclusion to jump to.
King County (Washington State) regulations require that outside water lines be buried no less than 2 feet / 61 cm deep. (See: www.kingcounty.gov/depts/health/environmental-health/piping/plumbing/installing-new-waterline.aspx )
Dear Mr..... 69, thanks for your interest in our video and I can tell your very diversed in your music and we'll educated. Thanks for your great input but I like the music.
Im a plumber for a living. Thats a clean job guys.
Thnx Adrian for your input, good to know there others who take pride in there work.
How much did that job cost?
Nice job such a great system. Residential plumber from Mass I highly recommend the Milwaukee expander the 18 v would be perfect for the 1 1/4
good job, Andy, Looks great
Bravo 👏. Had no idea this technic was available thank you for this video God Bless you. IMPRESSIVE!
Remarkable job. Impressive mole direction, too!
We have been using poly pipe underground in my family's business since the 60's, never once had one fail and we bury it sometimes 8-10 feet deep, always use 160-200 lb pipe and it will last forever.
I’ve seen them fail a few times. It always was a tiny pebble, wedged between the pipe and a big rock, another pipe…let’s say you lay the pipe on top of a big rock, the tiny pebble wedged underneath, the weight of the whole pipe will lie on that pebble and wear a pinhole in it.
Good job. I like the mole!
Great job..................very professional............if you were in Kentucky, I'd hire you in a minute !!!
Watch out for sand worms when your running that thumper! xD
Cool vid thanks! :)
So when you back-filled and cleaned up the top pit, you put the leaves back on-top of the soil..
Better of using either copper or P.E, the was a easy shot with the grundy, that's the normal size grundy i use but i also use a 4/5" grundys for 110mm pipes
AI little suspicious though about the leak in the blue poly because the soil wasn't wet under the leak until they started filming. I'm just saying........
mrmattvatt You’re absolutely right I noticed the same thing
Great one!
is uponor pex pipe allowed to install under ground & with not proteccion?
thank you
So, if even blue poly doesn't typically fail until around 25 years anyway, isn't a 25 year warranty kind of pointless? How is that superior?
Dear Mr. Question man, normally a standard warranty is 1-5 Years however we typically will pass on the manufacturer warranty. With the pex wirsbo its an additional 20 years on there pipe, so we pass this on to our customers. I think the consumers agree that this additional 20 years is a added bonus for using there pipe. This new pex is the hybrid to the standard polyethylene pipe of the past. So far it looks like this pipe dominates the market here in the USA today in quality/performance. Thnxs hope this helps
I see. Very nice. BTW, I was a certified Wirsbo installer in California. I really liked using it.
+QuestionMan yes this pex wirsbo is very nice to work with. Do you still reside in California today? That's a beautiful state, I love the sunshine.
No. Moved away from San Diego after the bubble burst. Jobs dried up. Still, it was very nice.
@@andyakers9962 and here in the UK
Love to see if that thing would get even ten feet in my soil, I'd love that thing if it can. Driving trenchers can't cut it; usually comes down to explosives and jackhammers.
Dear Wolf, your right not much works well in real hard pan/rock soil. Open trench may be the best option for you. Sounds like you know your stuff, thnx for your input.
I had to rent a jackhammer to get through my hard-pan... I'm replacing the main water line here in Fresno, CA with schedule 80 PVC
You're starting out with what looked like a 3/4" soft copper service line from the city.. They're only going to get 3/4" of water, doesn't matter how much pressure is on it.
Luckily there is that much space between the wall and the sidewalk... How would it be done otherwise?
How can it lead to a large water bill if the leak is BEFORE the meter?
I thought Wirsbo/Uponor PEX requires a separate ProPEX ring on the outside at the fitting end (where you are using the expansion tool) for any connections. Did they change their specs? Otherwise, it'd be interesting to know how you aim that mole. Neat stuff.
Seattle does not require tracer wire for non metallic water piping as per UPC 604.9?
your guy in white looks like the cop in Terminator 2😀
Put a ducting in as well better protection for the water pipe.
Absolutely Andrew, we normally will put in sleeving when working in rocky/debris soil conditions. Also many cities we work in require sleeving when boring underground. Your right it has many added values with such a minimal added cost. Thnx for the input.
how did you hit the destination so accurately? I'm assuming you calculated the angle by the height and distance... but say you came up with precisely 10.5degrees. wouldn't a rock or something throw it off? example if you hit a big Rock 5 feet in and it throws the mole off 1" you'd end up off by a foot or two, no?
Telescpoptic sights
Plastic pipe is good but the problem with all these plastic pipe replacements is you end up losing a good grounding electrode which is vital to protecting homes from electrical line surges and lightning strikes. People will start realizing this soon... The code will change where you will have to run a bonding conductor between the two metal pipes.
I don't understand why you didn't use the old water pipe as a starter fish.
wxfield how could you?
That poly wasnt hooked up properly, looking at it closer, if they had used a pacjoint coupling and put a metal sleeve in the poly, i bet it wouldnt have been leaking. It may have not been deep enough in the first place, thats just my 2 cents.
Not a good install. #1 pipe is only like 1 feet below ground and installer should sleeve the plastic pipe with metal or cement to protect it from yard work.
why would you stop at the house? 2 feet into the house and you have a much bigger water line, and then the customer can then choose to install bigger lines in there house
I agree. Why wouldn't you do a full job and go all the way into the house
Copper is the way to go
How do you align the height on the other side?
SIGHTS
How much did you charge for that? Just curious
how much did that cost?
Pexterable
I scrolled through comments trying to see mention of cost too??
Prex isn’t the correct material to used underground. Also the type of pipe isn’t either the correct one to used.
Neat tool, but I don't think your mole thing is going to replace a backhoe, here in the boulder-filled soils of Vermont. Best we can do is hope not to find bedrock and restore the front yard after the fact. Yay. Expensive, but unavoidable.
How much does something like this cost?
I would never put that plastic crap behind my walls or under my property. Soft copper for in-ground applications and rigid copper for inside structure all the way.
whatever. copper reacts chemically with the earth, so it always at risk for developing pinhole leaks. I don't care either way, whatever the customer wants...
We have some areas where soft copper won't last 10 years before the ground eats a hole in it. I would much rather have pex/poly/pvc/anything but metal pipes.
Both plastic and copper have there applications, Type K soft copper is the best choice but when you have a longer line we try to avoid having a lot of splices. Also customer determines the final choice, 1" copper comes in a maximum 100" and the plastic 1" IPS up to a 500' roll. Soil conditions also play a part in determining the best pipe for the project.
what kind of bullet mole was that?
Dear Hector, the tool we used was a grundomat 2" mole I believe. However we have a large selection of sizes/models at our disposal. If I were to recommend a mole for water service I would probably say the 2-1/2" hammerhead mole with the active head if you have harder/rocky soil. Standard sandy based soil the non active head mole works well. You can contact your local ditchwitch dealer for more info on purchasing one. Hope this info helps
what if u hit a rock
it breaks it
@@I.AM.Issachar. NOT ALWAYS AND IT CAN MAKE IT DIVE OR COME UP
Ok,..I know what a mainline leak looks like. Even a pin hole one. Running 24 7? Come on guys. At 1.17,...nothing .Cut scene . Then re show the same area. At 1.29. Leaking pretty good.Where was that leak in the first scene . And all the water from the,...24 7 leak? Hummm
What difference does it make when you're tying in the old ass galvanized and where's the house shut off with the hose bib. Bet you guys charge close to 20,000 for that.
I would never allow PEX to be used on any project of mine. Water tastes like crap and it has never been tested for chemicals leached into the water.
+John Puccetti Regardless of your opinion on PEX, it's absolutely incorrect to state that it's never been studied. A quick search on google scholar for "PEX drinking water migration" shows hundreds of peer-reviewed articles in the last ten years, including several recent reviews which cover PEX extensively.
eg, Contaminant Migration From Polymeric Pipes Used in Buried Potable Water Distribution Systems: A Review (dx.doi.org/10.1080/10643389.2011.627005)
Are There Health Risks from the Migration of Chemical Substances from Plastic Pipes into Drinking Water? A Review (dx.doi.org/10.1080/10807030802235219)
it looks a little shallow to me im a plumber in kansas city. if it was 2 1/2 to 3 ft down it would look a lot better.
+Phillip Cothran I fully believe you are right, if it was in a warm climate area where the frost line would be very shallow then this would be acceptable but since this is Seattle, Washington the frost line should be at least forty eight inches. These installers are not professional or experienced at all.
+Virgil2U Notice that the city's supply line was not very deep. They don't have much of an option to change the depth of the pipe they installed. I doubt the city/utility would come out and install a new line that is deeper. It seems the inspector also approved of their work. I agree that it seems too shallow, but calling them inexperienced over YT seems like a stupid conclusion to jump to.
City of Seattle required water mainline depth is 18 inches.
King County (Washington State) regulations require that outside water lines be buried no less than 2 feet / 61 cm deep. (See:
www.kingcounty.gov/depts/health/environmental-health/piping/plumbing/installing-new-waterline.aspx )
where is the main shut off valve ?
Dear Brenan, the main shut-off is located inside the home. There is also a shut-off at the meter located on the other side of the walkway. Thnx
Bullshit I bet all day
fast forward to 0.26 seconds if you dont like gay music
Dear Mr..... 69, thanks for your interest in our video and I can tell your very diversed in your music and we'll educated. Thanks for your great input but I like the music.
This is a great song. I wish I could have heard more of it. It's one of my favorites. You don't know good rock music.
The music has to go