Further information for those that need it: To remove the drum, once you have removed all the screws on the back you will need to undo the gas connection nut on the bottom-right of the back with a 13mm spanner. After that there are electrical connections at both the top and the bottom to disconnect. After removing the drum, I drilled out the three rivets which was a PITA but I got there in the end. I already had some M6 25mm allen bolts with nyloc nuts that had a large, flat head which I decided to use (from Screwfix, called "Joint Connector Bolts BZP"). I drilled the holes on the spider arm and the drum to 7mm. I also used M8 washers inside the drum to try and spread the load from the bolts. Whilst the spider arm is removed, replace the bearings. M5 bolts would also be OK. 25mm bolts are a bit long, I think 16mm or 20mm would be the best length. With the M8 washers the heads of the allen bolts now protrude about 4mm into the drum which is a little worrying - I will have to keep an eye on any clothes damage. I could also put some foil tape over the heads in future if required. I did contemplate bonding a piece of metal plate around the back of the drum with some JB-Weld epoxy to strengthen the flaw shown in the video, but didn't bother in the end. I will keep an eye out for cracks and maybe I will have to do it in the future. Good luck to those that use these instructions, it's such a shame that they have stopped making these.
The same fault occurred with my White Knight 43A gas tumble dryer and I resolved it by making a steel plate and bolting it through the drum Using the three pop rivet holes and the three other holes in the drum the repair was only completed 1 month ago so it’s long term effectiveness is yet to be tested.
@@AmirKhan-qx2lr hi Amir the initial failure was the strength of the rivets holding the bearing to the drum as my note I modified the drum fitted a new bearing and since then the dryer has performed brilliantly look to me that the original engineering needed more strength
I had the older one, original 4.3.equiv almost three phase power, the drum cracked on that. Did the same as you, then also put 3 massive spacer washers in to spread the load. Lasted another few years, broke her up. For parts and got almost what I paid for it as people won't part with them. Bought an 86a,its 7 year old just wouldn't switch one last week or she said it stopped middle cycle, gave her a clean out and thought we smelt gas (hope it's not just unburnt dust) so it's unplugged and unloved. Can't seem to buy a new one, so I don't know if it's corona virus or they have just stopped making them. Yanks do a one called a queen, bit bigger will see if it will fit somewhere... Nice video sir thanks
Just seen this video a week after brazing my drum, drilling out the rivets and fitting spreader washers... this is my third white knight gas dryer, each of the former did +15 years. This 86A less than 2 years! And with such a catestrophic failure. Now wondering if I can get one fabricated. Has anyone access to the drawings to save me reverse engineering it?
I recently replaced the drum & bearings in my whiteknight eco83a however the replacement drum didn’t have the brush runner strip. Am I right in thinking the drum brush is for the moisture sensors? As the sensor dry no longer functions correctly.
Yes that's what its for (Moisture sensor). The drum you've replaced it with is for the 43A and does not have the band in the middle. You can use the 86a drum in the 43A but i didnt know that you could use the 43A drum in the 86A as you say you've done. Is it still working ok ?
Knocking away (intermittent) replaced the rear bearing, still the same. Wish I had seen this video before strip down, as I shall have to redo with a closer eye on the drum. Thanks for the heads-up.
These units and a lot of others like them are weak and not fit for purpose .How they fail is an absolute DISGRACE .These drums have to be Chinese components
Great video. We are on gas dryer number 4. All have had bearing/drum failures. 😢
Further information for those that need it: To remove the drum, once you have removed all the screws on the back you will need to undo the gas connection nut on the bottom-right of the back with a 13mm spanner. After that there are electrical connections at both the top and the bottom to disconnect. After removing the drum, I drilled out the three rivets which was a PITA but I got there in the end. I already had some M6 25mm allen bolts with nyloc nuts that had a large, flat head which I decided to use (from Screwfix, called "Joint Connector Bolts BZP"). I drilled the holes on the spider arm and the drum to 7mm. I also used M8 washers inside the drum to try and spread the load from the bolts. Whilst the spider arm is removed, replace the bearings. M5 bolts would also be OK. 25mm bolts are a bit long, I think 16mm or 20mm would be the best length. With the M8 washers the heads of the allen bolts now protrude about 4mm into the drum which is a little worrying - I will have to keep an eye on any clothes damage. I could also put some foil tape over the heads in future if required. I did contemplate bonding a piece of metal plate around the back of the drum with some JB-Weld epoxy to strengthen the flaw shown in the video, but didn't bother in the end. I will keep an eye out for cracks and maybe I will have to do it in the future. Good luck to those that use these instructions, it's such a shame that they have stopped making these.
The same fault occurred with my White Knight 43A gas tumble dryer and I resolved it by making a steel plate and bolting it through the drum
Using the three pop rivet holes and the three other holes in the drum the repair was only completed 1 month ago so it’s long term effectiveness is yet to be tested.
how has it faired?
@@AmirKhan-qx2lr hi Amir the initial failure was the strength of the rivets holding the bearing to the drum as my note I modified the drum fitted a new bearing and since then the dryer has performed brilliantly look to me that the
original engineering needed more strength
@@AmirKhan-qx2lr since the modification no problems I suggest White Knight under engineered the drum bearing attachment post my mod all ok
I welded a much bigger crack than this on mine & it's going strong for 5th yr 👍🏻
what kind of welder did you use?
I had the older one, original 4.3.equiv almost three phase power, the drum cracked on that. Did the same as you, then also put 3 massive spacer washers in to spread the load. Lasted another few years, broke her up. For parts and got almost what I paid for it as people won't part with them.
Bought an 86a,its 7 year old just wouldn't switch one last week or she said it stopped middle cycle, gave her a clean out and thought we smelt gas (hope it's not just unburnt dust) so it's unplugged and unloved.
Can't seem to buy a new one, so I don't know if it's corona virus or they have just stopped making them.
Yanks do a one called a queen, bit bigger will see if it will fit somewhere...
Nice video sir thanks
Just seen this video a week after brazing my drum, drilling out the rivets and fitting spreader washers... this is my third white knight gas dryer, each of the former did +15 years. This 86A less than 2 years! And with such a catestrophic failure. Now wondering if I can get one fabricated. Has anyone access to the drawings to save me reverse engineering it?
The rivets are shouldered rivets not pop rivets . Probably should have used shouldered bolts that fit into the alloy spider holes.
I have a white knight gas tumble dryer No,BGG 447 is this the right number Allan
I recently replaced the drum & bearings in my whiteknight eco83a however the replacement drum didn’t have the brush runner strip.
Am I right in thinking the drum brush is for the moisture sensors? As the sensor dry no longer functions correctly.
Yes that's what its for (Moisture sensor). The drum you've replaced it with is for the 43A and does not have the band in the middle. You can use the 86a drum in the 43A but i didnt know that you could use the 43A drum in the 86A as you say you've done. Is it still working ok ?
How did you get the drum out,because of all gas stuff on the back, did you remove from the front,or does the back come off easily.
Thanks
Knocking away (intermittent) replaced the rear bearing, still the same. Wish I had seen this video before strip down, as I shall have to redo with a closer eye on the drum. Thanks for the heads-up.
These units and a lot of others like them are weak and not fit for purpose .How they fail is an absolute DISGRACE .These drums have to be Chinese components