12-25-2012 Wood Gasifier follow up video 3
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- Once again, this is a follow up on the wood gasifier project. I have changed and added different things to this design in order to not only improve the design but to learn more about this topic too. The thought of making home grown fuel is very exciting and I will continue to push forward and try to make
improvements on this too. Any and all input is welcome.
You read minds but to answer the question, probably not because the 10 gal propane tank ran so cool that it captured a lot of liquid in it and it cleaned the gas just as well from what I could see. I just sat down and designed a simple killer filter system that I think will be the missing link to this. If it ever quits raining, I'll give it a shot and post my findings.
A buddy made a good point. Where you live can also have an effect on how much water you capture too. Out west their humidity is low but here in the south the humidity always stays high unless it's really cold.
Yep i dont sleep much at all used to drive semi so i got used to sleeping 2hrs a day lol its only 11:30 here. I know how much the right help really can get u on the right path. Over 10yrs ago i started working with my first unit nobody was talkin or thinkin about these setups. Now u see so many diff half tested not really used setups for sale that i see a junk.
Awesome Flash! I am a late comer but still appreciate your work!
Thanks... This is old old old! I made this video when I was just starting to tinker with this stuff. Since this video I've designed up a decent automated Imbert system. If you go through some of the older videos you'll find the newer build.
What you are saying makes good sense. I've got another trick up my sleeve that I am going to try out that I think will really clean this up too. I did notice that cooling the gas right out of the gasifier made a BIG difference with the gas burning cleaner. I think I had the right idea but the wrong approach. When I packed the plastic bucket with tinfoil balls I was thinking of your idea of filling a tube full of ball bearings or marbles for capturing tar.
Thanks a lot flash. Your demonstrations have helped me a lot I built my own unit from documentations I found on the net but did not control the air inflow, in fact my hopper was completely open. I noticed that when the hopper is filled to the brim, the gas flares, but when the wood chip goes down, the flaring stops; until I saw your video and how u controlled oxygen inflow. Thanks man. Keep it up.
If you get a chance, check out the Imbert gasifier videos. The Imbert produces a much cleaner gas.
I've made my living at electronics for over 30 years. I have been purchasing solar panels for a while now and I designed and built a controller because I wanted a 24 Volt DC system. I even designed my own lighting too. Most of the electronics I use have wall warts so going to a DC setup will be easy. I already have some deep cycle batteries and if it wasn't for my wife, I would already be disconnected from the grid. This is why I want a good woodgas setup.
after 5 yr watching woodgas videos.. im ready make me 1- / im considering a pipe radiator first -with catch jar/ then the tank you had! + add 2 inch water in the bottom that tank!(water seems to be 1 the best -cheepest -filter! +cooling).
I want to thank you for all of the input you have given me. I will be trying your filtering ideas and they may look a little different but it will be with the same concept you are suggesting. You are right on the money about keeping things simple and that's my goal too. I am considering a loose pack of fiberglass in the 10 gallon tank but only on the top half so that will still be very thick. I want a drip reservoir and after seeing that the tank did remove a lot of water and tar.
That's exactly where I'm headed! I did get the gas to actually clean up with this new filter I just built and the flame is textbook blue but you are correct because the system is temperamental especially with a 4 inch burn tube. My new Gasifier will be kicking some ass. I'm experimenting and designing filters now so that I will have an ultra clean setup with the new Gasifier. Before I forget, Thank you for the reply.
The reason you have the tar under the fan is because the fan itself acts as a centrifuge. It slings the tar to the outside of the fan housing and it sinks down the walls of the pipe. The fan itself is acting like a high speed cyclone filter and cleaning the gas very effectively removing the tar left over by the filter.
Thank you, bro, just awesome. Can't wait to get through your entire series.
Great video! I appreciate the detail you put into your gasifier and sharing the knowledge, looking forward to building one of these and will definitely be using a similar design! Take care 🤠
Hi, thank you for your feedback. I wanted to make you aware that this gasifier was my introduction to this technology and you do not want to use this style or design for running an engine because it does not get hot enough and the tar vapor in the gas will ruin an engine. Since this video I have redesigned a Imbert design that is light years from this build and I offer the plans for free. Please check out my older videos on my channel and you will see the new build. Thank you.
When you're losing moisture, you're also losing Heat. It takes energy to cause a "Phase Change" from Vapor (Gas) to Tar (Liquid).
I'm almost ready to start on this. And I'm also looking at Ethanol as a fuel source, as well. It seems Sugar Beets can be simply chopped up and fermented... Treat Home-Brew Whiskey like the poison it probably is.
I like your setup. It seems to have the best mix of Solid Construction and Least Welding I've seen yet.
It's funny you mentioned the least amount of welding involved. My welding skills are next to nothing and I actually learned to weld doing this build. Other than a little bit of acetylene bronze rod welding I had never worked with a MIG welder or anything else so that sort. Everybody was too busy asking for money to sell you plans for building up a gasifier and I had to research whatever I could to come up with one I had and it was a lot of trial and error but in the end I wound up with something that actually worked. The best thing was other people seen the build and liked it enough to try it themselves. They made their own improvements on the build and we all share the information among us.
I don't like the hearth rings either because if it screws up you will have a complete tear down along a hot date with an angle grinder! I plan on using five 1/4 inch air inlets with removable external 1/2 inch steel pipes that go straight to the top of the barrel for the air inlets along with a simple reduction zone since I already have a handle on how to do it and the fuel hopper will be sealed air tight with a simple safety relief valve just in case there is a back fire or a foop factor.
The best i seen yet
Hi thanks for the feedback. This is an old video. The new build is up and running and is light-years ahead of these older videos.
Grate video! Very educational, I'm building my own version gasifier and your filter information was very helpful. Thanks man.
YOUR THE MAN BUDDY. You say the gas must cool fast. What you can do is to put heat sink around the whole tube. It will draw away allot of heat just a tip
Yeah, I did see joshua burks setup and I was in contact with him with a few questions and he was a great help. His system had a blue flame but he is also dependent on wood pellet fuel. I can get and keep a blue flame too but apparently just having a blue flame may not always mean you have a clean burn. 90% of my burn time was always deep blue. The flame gets some yellow only when I add fuel and shake the grate but never no orange in the flame.
That's so funny! I want to try some pine too. I have some on my land so once I get this completed I will give it a shot!
One thing i can tell u from personal setups try putting in yr first cooling tank fill it with steal wool also u could change up yr upright tubes to light fill them too with steal wool or pure light than just add a hook up for a water wash out using just warm water. I some times will do this while running also i use mild most wood lets more water help cool and wash all at the same time the steal wool will also take out alot of heat from inside yr gas! Hope this helps!
Hey Flash, enjoy the gasifier videos, great work with what you have done. I hear you on what you are saying about “What if” happens. I myself thought this a few months back that I have no real means for heating, cooking and electric generation in a long term situation that does not require gasoline, propane, wind, solar or hydro. So decided to work with a proven tech to cover the needs I was looking for then back to finding the new tech that may or may not exists. Keep up the good work!
I meant to tell you that the gas going into the first plastic 5 gallon bucket is literally ice cold or worse case, cool. I feel that I've got the cooling part under control so what I am looking to do now is to make sure that the gas hits plenty of surface areas to allow the tar to settle out before it hits the fans and I think I have a simple cool fix. I'll try it this weekend provided the weather holds up.
I agree with you about the water restricting the gas flow by making it harder to pull the gas through. I thought of designing a setup where the water was being splashed inside of the bucket like a blender so that the gas would in essence would be sprayed as it passed through the bucket but not using a pump that would only get gummed up with tar and particles. I thought of a small high rpm paddle to splatter the water Instead.
No problem i am always happy to help those that think for them self and not just follow steps! On how it looks that dont madder to me its more on how it works and what u have to build with! A real test for any unit is try some white pine most use good wood to burn but pine has the most tar thats what i have to burn i first started out with red and white oak easy to filter than i moved 2000 miles and only thing here is pine! Thats why my filter setup is so big!
I have designed a whole new system based on the Imbert design including an extremely polished version of the 10 gallon cooling tank. The tank serves 4 real world purposes that I was able to figure out just by observing the system in action. (1) It cools the gas. (2) It aids in drying the gas. (3) It handles the same duties as a standard vortex by cleaning particles
out of the gas. (4) It works as a very efficient prefilter in the removal of some of the tars that don't get cracked by the gasifier
Thank you for the Post, Have been working on this too. You have been a great help.
Keep up the great video's.
The new Imbert design I am currently finishing up with should get hot enough to crack the tar and convert it to useable fuel. After this video, I did design a filter that completely cleans the gas. Check out "video 6".
True:if can burn the tars off hot/makes moreee gas/thens less to have to filter----then radiator to kool it a bit + catch the liquids- then your 10 gal tank /still beleives can add the water filter to it- like a water level- /not fulled but 1/2 way in a tube and drag it across it ! thinking a snake coil like.. with 3 inches xtra up at each end to attach and to release the gas back into tank!
If you are electronically minded, you could fit a variable resistor circuit, but you could just try a dimmer switch / plug in the power line.
Nice idea if u put the input of the gas on the lower side by where the paddles would move past if u had holes in the paddles like a mesh it would also break up bubbles of the gas! Also if u put the input on a angle yr paddles could help pull the gas into the setup! I like that idea allot more than any other water setups i have seen! Nice job on thinking keep it up we need more ppl like u thinking not just doing what others do!
I haven't actually built a gasifier yet...pretty much in the education phase right now. The treatise mentioned below states that the burnable gases are CO, H2, and methane (other hydrocarbons) in that order of concentration/available energy.
The book was written from the perspective of power plants with large systems, but the chemistry description of what is actually happening is pretty interesting, if a bit tedious.
One more big thing i look at filtering like this i dont want to have to buy or make alot of filter stuff so i have turned to the idea of what can be used and washed and reused but still work on removing tar. Every 2hrs of running i wash out my filters while running by pushing hot water into them that keeps them clean and working nice. The water turns dark brown and gets tar thick. I use that in my wood stove with leave pressed logs i use it all for one thing or another most just throw out!
You are correct. I only use seasoned dry wood.
I think I have a real deal fix for the tar. I will be trying this idea out this weekend
and let's keep our fingers crossed that it works. My gut feeling is it will. As far as the tar goes, it is nasty. I'm saving the liquid and I plan on trying to distill it to see if I can make liquid fuel out of it. I'll let you know how that pans out but that's going to be a while.
One thing i want u to know about is storing gas its easy i have 5 tractor inner tubes i made a wood box that i laid one out than put a sheet of plexi than the next in layers i took out the inner stem than i made a 50# weight for on top that i have on a pulley i use a small air hose hooked to each to a pipe on the side i pull the weight off use my fan when i have good gas and fill up i have a few shut off valves for each tube than after full put weight on and use for cooking like lp!
Yes i use mine for heating cooking and power! Its a every other day fire up! I have a simple down draft easy and cheap i just focused on filter setup and air in control less on burner setup! Why over build and make more to fail or go wrong build simple burner and filter filter get clean gas! I dont waste gas i store it in tractor inter tubes and than have it to use as i need, heating cooking my 3 way frig! I have made several small ones just need the money to make a big one for a car or truck!
Bill I just got back today from searching for a good fan. The one that I'm using
came from eBAY and they are called a turbo blower. All you have to do is Google the following:"marine turbo blower". They cost anywhere from $18 to $28 but these are not good fans for use in a woodgas setup You need a small squirrel cage fan that has the motor mounted on the outside and this way the motor itself is isolated from any tars and ash material.
I used to live in WI and i got gallons of water out of my setup now i live in the high mountains over 9k ft and a total diff wood here very big diff in tar and water! It took me 9 months to get the tar out just from the move so now i tell ppl when u think its good burn some pine and u will see its not! After the move i really worked allot on just filtering so now if i go where i can get good wood its over kill but its now setup for good or crap wood and pine in good wood areas is free!
ALSTITES thank you for watching and commenting. I have already came up with what I believe will be a killer "simple" filter design that will get this where it needs to be and if it ever quits raining, I will give it a shot so be looking for a new video soon on this.
Great video. As with any wood burning, using seasoned wood should help keep your tar to a minimum, just as burning seasoned wood keep creosol build up to a minimum. Also Pines/conifers which have a lot of tar in them, will produce a lot of tar, where your hardwoods like hickory, locust, oak, and ash should all help with tar issues. Seasoned woods should help eliminate a lot of the water condensation in the system.
Superb! Tnx for sharing
I have used glass marbles ball bearings BB's but keep in mind u need to make yr area u pack bigger to allow better gas flow threw and around yr packing. My favorite thing to use is stainless steal wool but i expand it and light pack so it don't restrict gas flow and i pack all tubes but thats just me! I would also put wool where u had the newspaper! I also like to use moist wood just to have more water in my setup to cool that sweating inside does allot for dust and buildup!
Great explanation. Other gasification vids do not describe as well
Awesome, thanks for the description, you are great flash001USA
Great questions! I ran the burn for 4 hours non stop and the tar I found at the top of the filter would amount to a golf ball size of goo. My tube is 4 inches in diameter and the tar was a little bit thicker than honey. I got right at 1/2 of a gallon of water from the whole system. I went and got me some stainless steel pads tonight and I have already started on the new filter system.
The vaporized tar is hard to filter out and it can get around the filters. Check out the video after this one. I designed a much better filter system.
Before I forget, once I get the bugs out of it, I will build this onto a portable platform. For now, it is free standing so I can change things up "on the fly". I'll also make my build along with my data open source. It annoys me to see people selling plans on this. I can understand selling kits or parts but not plans.
You must be on your computer now because you are replying back within minutes of my questions. It's 1:20AM here and I am in South Carolina. I am fixing to go get some shut eye because I have to be at work tomorrow. Once again, you have been more help that you probably know. I wish you had a photo of your setup so I could see what it looks like.
I like your progress. keep it coming.
hi fella, dave from the uk, i found your video very thoughtful, i have built a couple gasifyer's i am going to make a video of my system but your cooling system for ultimate condensing you will need a large diesel inter cooler as they absorb heat soak and allow large crud deposits, you dont need to large a cooler but they drop the BTU by far,, also i have a tripple filter system, the final filter is a stainless steel food air purifier in a canister exchange system. i do love the way you made your vid, i am awfull at being infront of a cam but i will try it out, keep an eye out for it ..... cheers
What you are describing has merit but that would require a good engineer with hands on experience in this field. For now I am keeping things simple. My new build (second one) is set up where it only has one air nozzle feeding dead center of the ember zone and I can unscrew it and change the nozzle size for different engine configurations and this will allow me to tweak it too.
I forgot to answer your question. I thought about building a water scrubber system but for now I'm trying to keep the resistance down to a minimum and pulling gas through water would give a lot of opposition but the idea is still on the table. I'll let you know how the new idea works out if this weekend is clear.
I agree with u on the hearth rings completely! Is yr plan to have a way to regulate the inlet air to me thats very important and here is why if u get too much air in i have found that u make more tar not sure as to why! I think its to u have more area that is charring than u should but with the air cut back only the hottest area uses the air and does a better burn! I made a bowl into a door cover for on top with a hinge and and high temp seal and wing nut lock for a good seal but easy to open.
That I wouldn't know. This video is an older one where I was still trying to figure out how to clean the gas up. If you get a chance check out "video 6". With that said don't waste your time building the FEMA because you will be dealing with tar issues. The tar can be filtered out and I did that in video 6 but a simple Imbert design is the best way to go.
Our wives looking out through the window watching with the neighbor lady " look at them , like little kids , playing with fire . "
Yeah, dense would definitely be the correct term. I never was good at chewing gum and walking at the same time either so I definitely qualify for a prize in misused phrases in my videos. It was around this video that I realized what I need to change to make this project really happen correctly too. If you get a chance, check out "Video 6". I have the gas so clean that there is no vapor on the output pipe if the flame is extinguished. Cont:
That 1/2gal sounds not bad for how small yr burner is i have only made 6" and bigger! The nice thing is with stainless pads pull them apart kinda so that the gas flows better dont mash them in or it will fill up with tar and stop flow! If u see that yr flow starts to slow down after a 3 or 4 hr run just add in a hose at top and a way to drain water and wash it on the fly! i have it setup so my gas enters the filter about 6' up from bottom and added sight tube from bottom, up 6" that allows
I wanted to let u know a easy way to test for tar and not need to kill a motor! Take an old white sock or anything nice bright white put it over yr output if it stains u still have some tar! I only put the sock on for 10 or 15min its enough time to show if there is tar or not if there is any i myself wont run a motor on it until that sock stays white showing that there is good clean gas! If there is any tar than if u run a motor on it it will over some time gum up !
You are very correct. Since this video I have gotten this unit so clean that
there isn't even a wisp of vapor that comes out of the output now! If you get a chance, check out my last video. The gas may as well be propane.
I do have one last question. You said to use a white sock or something white to see if it stains. Once you get your gas to where you trust that it is clean, do you still see any smoke or vapor coming out of the port? I know that may be a dumb question but I had to ask.
tecknowfreak this may sound like a dumb question but are you saying that if the wood chips in the filter are a little moist or damp that the tar will stick to it better that it would to dry wood chips? Before I forget, I drained out 3/4 of a quart of water from the 10 gallon propane tank and almost a full quart from the capture jar and about a cup from the plastic 5 gallon bucket and no water from the final filter. My total water yield was around 2 quarts from the system.
I have enjoyed all of your videos. What I most like about your machines is the neat/clean workmanship. You'll know more than me because you are working through, and all I have yet is theory.
What I'd really like to see on the Imbert design is some sort of simple feedback device that would automatically match Input to output for a range of flow conditions. I think most of those who used the system just picked a nozzle size/arrangement that was in the middle of the possible flow range-continued
To be honest I have not tried to run it on a tiny amount of wood pellets. It will use around 4 or 6 cups to get a good bed of embers and biochar built when you first ignite it. After the gasifier is stabilized you can add fuel to it and time it. If you check out my last video you will see where I did take the time and actually weigh out precise amounts of wood followed with marking the time to get an idea of wood weight vs run-time with the generator.
me to see when to drain water from the washing but not to let air in the system. I also always leave some water in the bottom at a mark on my sight tube. I also have the gas inlet on a downward in angle so water cant go twards my burner! Thats for the times i am washing and loading it up as a safety thing! I added inside my tube a sprayer tip for a farm setup to fan my water dont know if it helps but i think it does!
And that big change is how u know yr filters r doing something good and just not there to look nice. How i test a filter is easy i make it than i fire up the unit with out it hooked in than i look at the smoke outlet then i hook it up and look if there isnt a big change i take it off and check out that i did it all the way i wanted if so than i try a diff medium inside test again. I setup the new filter as the first if it makes a big diff as the first one than it will work anywhere in the setup.
Thanks for this excellent informative video. I’m currently building a gasification system using 2” car flexible exhaust tubing. I’m thinking the tar will seal up the system if that tube has any minor leaks.
Hi I wouldn't build this for running any type of engine. This will ruin your engine. This was my first try at gasifiers but since this video the build has been taken light years ahead of this first video. You may want to go through my older videos on the channel where you will see the updated build and I give exact detailed explanations on how to construct a real gasifier that burns much cleaner than this old FEMA.
j johns the tar would probably clog it up in a matter of minutes. Did you see the tar ball I pulled from the top of the filter? I think I have a damned good fix and if the weather holds up, I'll try it this weekend. I just went and purchased the parts tonight. I have a good feeling about this design AND it might allow me to shrink the filter down to just one 5 gallon bucket so keep your fingers crossed!
nice work , i bet that you can get a piece of steel to glow with the flame , very nice work !!!
If u get a nice clean blue like an lp flame its pretty clean! Yes yr right on the pellets and if he put some crap pine in it i know it wouldnt be blue without more filtering! My old setup was like his diff but same idea good wood np nice blue than i got here and the simple 3 filters i had orange and yellow some blue not much tho! But now with 9 filters only one with sawdust the rest r washable its a clean blue. I say build for any wood that way it dont madder just use it!
just in the 6hrs but here is the big diff my cyclones and stuff dont get a big build up ash and tar crap they have a film but no real chunky stuff. I also have 3 upright 6' tubes one filled with steal wool one with metal turning and another filled with pure light than my final filter is sawdust than i have one more cyclone to catch dust. That setup has run my gen for 6yrs now. No motor work on the motor its just now this last yr needs new rings due to how much i use it!
"....Its all been for a good cause...."
I too feel your pain lol
For some reason I am limited to the number of characters. Good idea on Tractor tubes, I have seen it compressed with a car air conditioner compressor and stored in a lp can
I have seen it compressed using high pressure air compressors one i helped setup he had the money to buy a scuba compressor and got some carbon fiber tanks and pushed them up to 4000psi it only took some simple mod to the compressor like take and isolate the intake air take off all filters and put the gas hooked up directly so it would pull the gas from the unit and that has been the best yet i have helped on the tanks where made to store hydrogen best money could buy.
I know that I am throwing 64 thousand questions at you but does your gasifier have a reduction zone? How bug of a generator are you running? I only want to run anywhere from 5hp up to 12 hp at this time so if I go by the FEMA plans, the bottom of the output section should remain anywhere from 3 or 4 inches even though the hopper section can be larger..
Thank You,
One thing i forgot to say is as to why to fill them this way. That reason is allot of surface area to touch allot or all the gas taking out more tar and doing it fast it will make a ton of tar in those spots catching it early on. The reason yr fan gets allot of tar below it is due to the fans blades disrupting the air changing its flow. When u pack tubes make sure to double the size of the tube to allow gas flow threw yr packing but not having it cause restrictions!
Its not painfull to get off grid fully if u follow a few simple setups first start with all dc lighting than build up yr power than change over a tv than the next electronic and so on until one day u can look at yr wife and say hun watch this and u shut off the main in yr house and everything stays working! The biggest change is the frig go buy a newer 3 way frig from a rv place costly $1200 to $2000 but well worth it. At some point u have to also get gas storage for cooking not hard!
If you notice that when I switched to my filter, there was no gas to be seen other than a little wisp of vapor. That's why I was asking. On that note my eyes are bloodshot and I'm seeing double so I will be signing off. Once again, thanks for the input!
One thing i forgot to say i hold the heat in my filters slowly dropping the temp into the next holding some heat cooling it slower i have seen better tar removal and than after the upright filters just rapid cool into a sawdust or small wood chips than i put a cyclone to catch any dust from the sawdust filter i used to be big on many cyclone filters while holding heat slow cool than i moved and now only have pine so i changed to upright tube its faster build and more compact
man you are amazing
This is very very old outdated video. I was still in the process of trying to figure this stuff out. Did you get a chance go look at the later gasifier videos because if you find stuff like this interesting you're really going to love the final build.
@@flash001USA Hi man.
I know that these videos are old and somehow out of date (and still amazing), but I believe if I am going to make mine, I have to learn principles and that’s why I started to watch your very first videos about this subject and I will continue to watch till the latest ones. I had lots of questions and I found many of my answers from your videos.
To be honest with you, I am a beginner to this subject, but I have a plan to make a gasifier to run a 20-30 KW prime generator and I am sure your great job can help me through this plan.
Next month I will finish my researches and I will start the construction, and if I may, I will ask you lots of questions.
I would like to say lots of thanks for your amazing job, amazing videos and kind support.
Wish you the bests Flash001USA.
Yes the imbert early designs r great but most make them wrong in the reduction ring they have them flat in design and they need a 45deg angle into the reduction or they work just like a FEMA type due to all that gets held up by that flat lip blocking off the inlet jets! And if you should also know u never force air into the main burner due to you get over oxygenated real easy best to design with big enough jets and not to preheat air cooler air has more in it than warm.
setup 3cylendar cars 4cylendar 6and a few v8s every one the stock setup just dont cut it for the intake but by all means try it it will run and it will do okay until you try to run it driving or pull a load another good one to do is put race cams in to jump up compression higher is a lot better look at it like running pure alcohol than it will run good and be able to perform nice yes i know its alot of work but well worth it to have a good running motor just what i know!
What kind of wood are you burning and does different wood have anything to do with the amount of tar that you are producing. Super videos keep up the great work
Tahtechlabs Thanks for the view. This is a work in process and I feel that I am learning more each time I play with it. I think I have a filter fix that will be very simple and I'll try it this weekend provided it is not raining. Keep your fingers crossed. Before I forget, once I get it close enough to where I feel that it is stable and worth building, I will release a complete build with my findings because I feel this should be open source info.
My name is Bill and I am a survivalist prepper as well and I've been chosen to do a show for the history channel my main build will be a gasifier I love your videos and have been doing a lot of reading I'm wondering do you have any newer videos and any pointers that you can give me I live in the Pacific Northwest
@@Survivor10178 Yeah, this video is older than dirt itself. Since this video I along with others have really taken this to the next level. They are sprinkled throughout the channel. I hope this helps. ua-cam.com/video/dJfpa5-TTig/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/x6nOINkt6Es/v-deo.html
What will happen if you put air jets inside the burn tube is it will burn hot enough for the tars to crack and break down. A simple shop vac or airbed pump is enough air to push in air jets. Im telling you right now ive tried everything even a water filter and 3 sawdust filters and charcoal filter and a oil filter... and guess what still tars and it will clog your air intake and lock your engine up. If you upgrade to imbert the tars will be a powder. which wont harm your engine.
thanks for the videos they are great
I saw in a comment about a water filter most setups i dont like due to how much the water is a draw on pulling gas threw i guess after looking at mine i could see taking a small 12v pump and making one of my upright filters into kinda like a water filter. Put a sprayer in the top and than using it to wash my steal wool and in a way have a water setup. But i just see no real way pulling the gas threw water will as a bubble will help not enough surface area to clean but as a spray maybe?
Your video and explanation was GREAT. My only question is to explanation of your First Tank BLUE BURNER). More on the construction of the burner tank.
If I'm understanding you correctly you are making reference to the FEMA gasifier itself. The FEMA burns really stable but it produces too much tar so it is out of the question to run this gas into an engine. I sat down and built up a Imbert gasifier and it burns much cleaner. In reality you will never get rid of 100% of the tar 100% of the time but with the right setup you will get the gas where it can be managed and made safe and clean by the filters without the nasty tar goo.
Have you ever thought of using a water filter?
Major Dee Yeah, I actually built a small venturi filter this past summer but I am still experimenting with the setup.
No the chips in yr filter need to be as dry as possible! The chips u r burning if they r too dry i have found that the tar just sticks to every thing but if its more wet i even throw some kinda green chips in for burning all that water moisture helps allot to keep tar more runny and not build up! How long was yr total burn time and about how much did u burn up or use in that time? See i have a 6" burner tube one and thats just for my gen and if i run it for 6hrs i will get a good gal of water
Here is what i have learned from my own testing the way a motor is setup for gas you will loose 30 to 50% in getup and go and in HP but here is one i did i took a inline 6 and took off the 2 barrel carb got new intake made for 4 barrel and than it ran almost like gas here is why gas has so much crap to burn in a small drop to equal that same drop u need about 1 gal of metric wood gas and air mix the only way to get that is to setup the intake like how it would be for high performance i have
Thanks
See storing wood gas in lp tanks u still have a storage problem the gas degrades in a very short time and its hard to compress a good usable amount in them thats why i use the tubes i can inflate to a few psi than when i add the 50#'s to it i get about 15psi and it allows me to use it all up the tubes lay flat ready for the next fill and the 15psi is just right to cook with and run my back up generator as needed a lp tank dies out too fast cant hold enough constant pressure like the tubes.
this may be wrong yet bringing the moisture and tar back to burn section, loop it before to the end
No you have the right idea. Keep in mind this is a very old video and this build is outdated. It was my first try at this technology. This is a FEMA gasifier and they do not get hot enough to crack the tar in the gas where a Imbert design does. If you go through my channel you will find a updated build that addresses the tar and water issue. Thank you for your comment.
Yeah, I'll have a way to choke them off so I can regulate it to what the generator requires to run correctly. I am chomping at the bit to build this new system up and I know it will be a good setup. Did I understand you correctly? Is this your sole source of AC power?
I wonder if there isn't a way to include some sort of silo/-type device that would allow some variation in volume demand without substantially affecting flow through the burn zone. If it were possible, then you could design for a reasonable maximum demand and use the device for stabilizing flow through the reaction...just a thought.
It might be that one part of the cleaning process, using differential pressure, might also be great for including a capacity-type device.
why not run it through a shop vac filter towards the end after it cools?
That puddle of tar at @ 31:00 looks like an opportunity. Actually two opportunities! Would it be correct to assume that the differential pressure zone caused the tar to precipitate...wonderfully?
Secondly, that tar puddle represents a pointer back to the burn zone. A work from 1903, A Treatise On Producer-Gas and Gas-Producers, by Samuel S. Wyer (Google Books) is a bit hard to read, but there is a section that describes Incandescent carbon as the method of reacting those troubles away.
If u r talkin like how the GEEK setup is no and yes i cheated i added in a lower air inlet on each side and a upper both go out to a single ball valve so i can control air in close to the main burn and above in the preburn area! I just see those setups with those hearth rings and all that allot more work and allot more to go wrong! Most that use that setup dont filter enough i have yet to see anyone show a motor running after 1yr of constant use until than why wast the time and money!
tecknowfreak do you still have your gasifier? Is it a downdraft design? I know that the FEMA design makes tar until you get that magic zone with the right amount of coals and air flow but I thought that the designs using the reduction zone and air jets was supposed to crack the tar? Is tar still an issue even with the downdraft design?
I already am. I am well into my new imbert build. Believe it or not I actually designed a filter that can strip the tar right out of the gas to the point that nothing but clear gas comes out of the output that burns a propane blue flame and the longer the filters run the better they work. Check out my
"video 6 filters confirmed 100%" video
tecknowfreak , flash001USA is my frn. I see where you say it is best to keep the gas temp up so it can deposit the the tars, then filter it. What diameter pipe and length do you think would be best before you start to filter it. We plan on building one for a truck, probably something in the 350/400 cu range. I understand the more surface area the better for the tar to cling to. Have you seen Wayne Kieth's trucks ?