I've been struggling to get the rear carb lid off and yours is the first video i have seen that you put it back on after you saying you got it off. It is so difficult and don't want to break anything but I'm encouraged it can be done after seeing your vid.
@@ELDESTBuilds Finally got in there!! and fixed it: my float was bent so the float valve just fell out. for anybody else struggling, I found the best thing is to make sure the clip that holds the throttle cable between the carbs needs to be moved out of the way. Thanks again!!
@@ELDESTBuilds its an overflow for the bowls. Just stick a pipe on there and run it to ground somewhere. As long as your float needle never sticks nothings coming out of there.
Got another question for my 95 Yamaha Virago 535SG. For the main jet sizes the manuals say 137.5 front cylinder 135 rear cylinder. But online Yamaha diagrams it shows the 135 in the front carb and 137.5 in rear carb where throttle lever is. So why do the manuals say front cylinder 137.5, rear cylinder 135? Isn't the front cylinder behind the front tire and the rear by the back seat? I have someone telling me the rear is the front and the front is the rear, I know (from rear to front of bike) cylinder numbering is 1-2 which I thought was firing order idk. But I also see that in the book it says to take the "front carb" enrichment diaphragm off and that's before you split carb. So I'd think that the front carb goes to front cylinder and rear carb (where gas goes in first) is going to rear cylinder, right?? I'm just so confused 🤔
It's ok, you're correct. Somebody just switched the jets when the carbs were apart. The rear jug usually runs a little richer because it generally runs a little hotter.
@@ELDESTBuilds someone said, "they did it like the manuals say bc maybe it's richer at the front as air and cylinder is cooler,denser, so needs more fuel".
Hey I have a question, I took the carbs out and cleaned them with an ultrasonic I have a clear line between the two pipes that are between the carbs, I put everything back and changed the fuel pump and added a manual petcock, this motorcycle was sitting for a long time, when I turn the motorcycle on 8 hear the pump clicking and I can see fuel in the clear line, but when I push start it cracks but doesn't turn on. How do I know fuel is getting in the carb bowls and if there is fuel what else should I look for to get it running, I am thinking on changing spark plugs and new oil. Any ideas? Sorry for the long message I hope is not too much to ask, any help will be greatly appreciated
If there is fuel in the clear line it is most likely getting fuel. There is a drain screw on the bottom you can loosen and see if fuel drains from the bowl. Probably need to verify it's getting spark. New plugs are less guess work. Pull the plug and attach the boot. Hold the boot and touch the end of the plug to a metal surface on the bike, ground it and hit start button. You should be able to see the spark arcing.
@@ELDESTBuilds thank you so much I will take a look at that tomorrow, I will find the drain screw in the manual, I'm super new with motorcycles so I'm learning as I go
@@ELDESTBuilds i love my 535 (first bike) but you really do face a steep learning curve buying a used one that can have a load of different troubles. But beating each challenge feels like the bike is really mine.
👋 was wondering, do you know why gas would pump out the lower gas tank driver's hose when taking off the top tank? The top had some in it so I pumped some out took off the hose from top tank and it started pumping out gas fast, it pumped almost the whole lower tank out.
@@ELDESTBuilds it wasn't on and battery negative cable out if that makes a difference. I've never had it just pump out that hose that goes to the side tank on driver's side when I take it off. It literally pumped hard out that hose I had to plug it up and put in gas can. It shouldn't be pumping out gas just taking the top tank off right?
If the fuel pump is hooked up fuel shouldn't flow out of that hose. Fuel may flow out of the return line. The top tank is open flow from all hoses. If you.turn on power fuel will pump.
I've been struggling to get the rear carb lid off and yours is the first video i have seen that you put it back on after you saying you got it off. It is so difficult and don't want to break anything but I'm encouraged it can be done after seeing your vid.
Thanks, glad the video helped
@@ELDESTBuilds Finally got in there!! and fixed it: my float was bent so the float valve just fell out. for anybody else struggling, I found the best thing is to make sure the clip that holds the throttle cable between the carbs needs to be moved out of the way. Thanks again!!
Excellent news
What's rhe idea behind an air filter on the float bowl overflow tube?
That is the way it showed up. My thoughts are the pod where the line used to go was damaged in a drop.
@@ELDESTBuilds its an overflow for the bowls. Just stick a pipe on there and run it to ground somewhere. As long as your float needle never sticks nothings coming out of there.
Thanks buddy
Got another question for my 95 Yamaha Virago 535SG. For the main jet sizes the manuals say 137.5 front cylinder 135 rear cylinder. But online Yamaha diagrams it shows the 135 in the front carb and 137.5 in rear carb where throttle lever is. So why do the manuals say front cylinder 137.5, rear cylinder 135? Isn't the front cylinder behind the front tire and the rear by the back seat? I have someone telling me the rear is the front and the front is the rear, I know (from rear to front of bike) cylinder numbering is 1-2 which I thought was firing order idk. But I also see that in the book it says to take the "front carb" enrichment diaphragm off and that's before you split carb. So I'd think that the front carb goes to front cylinder and rear carb (where gas goes in first) is going to rear cylinder, right?? I'm just so confused 🤔
It's ok, you're correct. Somebody just switched the jets when the carbs were apart. The rear jug usually runs a little richer because it generally runs a little hotter.
@@ELDESTBuilds so go with the 137.5 in front and 135 rear cylinder like manuals say?
@@ELDESTBuilds someone said, "they did it like the manuals say bc maybe it's richer at the front as air and cylinder is cooler,denser, so needs more fuel".
@@ELDESTBuilds watcha think on that? Thanks 👍👍👍
Go with the manual
What kind of air filter was running beside the carburetors
The carburetor vent lines run to the small K&N filter.
Doesn't the diaphragms have springs that go on the covers to the diaphragms?
Yes, everything went back together and is functioning
Hey I have a question, I took the carbs out and cleaned them with an ultrasonic I have a clear line between the two pipes that are between the carbs, I put everything back and changed the fuel pump and added a manual petcock, this motorcycle was sitting for a long time, when I turn the motorcycle on 8 hear the pump clicking and I can see fuel in the clear line, but when I push start it cracks but doesn't turn on. How do I know fuel is getting in the carb bowls and if there is fuel what else should I look for to get it running, I am thinking on changing spark plugs and new oil. Any ideas? Sorry for the long message I hope is not too much to ask, any help will be greatly appreciated
If there is fuel in the clear line it is most likely getting fuel. There is a drain screw on the bottom you can loosen and see if fuel drains from the bowl. Probably need to verify it's getting spark. New plugs are less guess work. Pull the plug and attach the boot. Hold the boot and touch the end of the plug to a metal surface on the bike, ground it and hit start button. You should be able to see the spark arcing.
@@ELDESTBuilds thank you so much I will take a look at that tomorrow, I will find the drain screw in the manual, I'm super new with motorcycles so I'm learning as I go
Best way to learn, by doing it yourself
@@ELDESTBuilds i love my 535 (first bike) but you really do face a steep learning curve buying a used one that can have a load of different troubles. But beating each challenge feels like the bike is really mine.
Well done
👋 was wondering, do you know why gas would pump out the lower gas tank driver's hose when taking off the top tank? The top had some in it so I pumped some out took off the hose from top tank and it started pumping out gas fast, it pumped almost the whole lower tank out.
Fuel is pumped out of the lower tank only. The top tank keeps the lower tank full. The whole system recirculates fuel back to the top tank.
@@ELDESTBuilds it wasn't on and battery negative cable out if that makes a difference. I've never had it just pump out that hose that goes to the side tank on driver's side when I take it off. It literally pumped hard out that hose I had to plug it up and put in gas can. It shouldn't be pumping out gas just taking the top tank off right?
@@ELDESTBuilds it shouldn't do that when off right??? It pumped hard
If the fuel pump is hooked up fuel shouldn't flow out of that hose. Fuel may flow out of the return line. The top tank is open flow from all hoses. If you.turn on power fuel will pump.
It might be possible that when the pump turn off it was in the open position to allow fuel to flow.
Do you know why if I use my choke when cold it doesn't raise the rpms? Thanks
Most likely carbs need a cleaning
@@ELDESTBuilds yeah I did that rebuilt it out of bike to replace coasting enrichment valve and for that I had to separate them.
Is the lever engaged and moving both valves
@@ELDESTBuilds yes
@@ELDESTBuilds i don't get it..?? The starter sets seemed fine..
Needle valve is a right bugger to get in.
Because it goes in sideways
🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷👍
Thanks