Thanks for the handy tips. I have already drilled and tapped the caps and cylinder casting ( next video) Did this as I’ve done on a few other engines, which worked out ok. Nobby
Super glue and quick setting epoxy are very useful methods of temporarily mounting awkward parts for turning /milling/drilling ops. As Dave Ticehurst has said you should have gripped the split bush much deeper into the chuck jaws to start with but also if the cylinder cover castings had had a bit of epoxy added into the split bush fixture it would improve the holding power greatly. For super glue you need 2 flat surfaces cleaned free of any oils and apply heat or Acetone to release the component after machining. To release epoxy apply heat with a hot air gun. It may be a good plan to super glue the cylinder end caps into the cylinder casting and drill the 3 holes for the fixing screws with the caps glued into the cylinder.....drill the clearance holes in the caps after you have removed/unglued them when you have drilled the tapping drill holes...this way you can be certain all your screw and clearance holes line up perfectly.
Hi Nobby Another interesting video, a few problems which you dealt with. I think you could do with a set of collets for Myford would make holding small parts much easier, I wouldn’t be without mine All the best Rob
Thanks Robert I do have an ER32 collet chuck for the Myford, but the biggest collet is 20mm and too small to take the cylinder caps. The answer was to move the jig further back in the lathe chuck. Got there in the end. Cheers Nobby
Your turn this week Nobby for a little oops 😂 nice recovery and no real harm done, it could have been worse! I am guessing you have a tin roof on your workshop and were filming in a storm 😂 I enjoyed the video ATB Mark
I was lucky this time Mark. Could have cut this bit out, but like to admit to my mistakes. You’re right about the rain on my tin roof. Nice special effects. Sometimes it’s pigeons landing and running along the roof. Never a dull moment. Cheers Nobby
On the mandrel, could you have drilled a pinhole at the center of the cut, think this would have eliminated the center pinch point as the cut joint was closing, or make the cut wide at the center hole. Did a cut on a washer and when I compressed it, it seemed that the center most part of the cut closed before the outer edge.
Nobby with the ally part, another time put it as far in the chuck as you can. With you gripping so far back from the bronze part, there is a good chance of insufficient gripping force on the bronze. You were lucky to get away with it. Because you had nothing at the back I suspect all you did was close up the saw cut and was driving solid aluminium. Regards from Australia. Posted the comment before watching it all. See what I meant about closer in the chuck. The drill grabbed because you didn’t back the cutting edge with an oilstone.
You’re right David, was very lucky to get away with it. When I pushed the jig further back it did grip better. How are you doing? Keep in touch with me. Cheers Nobby
I guess I should make up a set of drills especially for brass and bronze, although some of the uncommon sizes I only have one of. I’ll get this sorted. Cheers David
Sounds arrogant of me but i could see in advance you were creating a problem for yourself by gripping so far away from where the jaw pressurec was needed, but even then a good learning opportunity for you. 😉 As with all machining in a non profit environment, its the end result that matters, not how you get there. Fear not, in the next twenty or thirty years of learning you wiĺl be able to get it right first time, every time. Well, maybe 50% of the time, first time.😂😂
Thanks for the encouragement Chris. Would be nice to think I would learn more in the next 20 to 30 years. I’m 77 now, and may not have that much time left 😅 All the best. Nobby
@nobbysworkshop in that case, you had better start making some more mistakes, sorry, I meant learning opportunities, to speed up the experience teaching. 😉🤣🤣🤣🤣
Thanks for the handy tips. I have already drilled and tapped the caps and cylinder casting ( next video) Did this as I’ve done on a few other engines, which worked out ok. Nobby
Super glue and quick setting epoxy are very useful methods of temporarily mounting awkward parts for turning /milling/drilling ops.
As Dave Ticehurst has said you should have gripped the split bush much deeper into the chuck jaws to start with but also if the cylinder cover castings had had a bit of epoxy added into the split bush fixture it would improve the holding power greatly.
For super glue you need 2 flat surfaces cleaned free of any oils and apply heat or Acetone to release the component after machining. To release epoxy apply heat with a hot air gun.
It may be a good plan to super glue the cylinder end caps into the cylinder casting and drill the 3 holes for the fixing screws with the caps glued into the cylinder.....drill the clearance holes in the caps after you have removed/unglued them when you have drilled the tapping drill holes...this way you can be certain all your screw and clearance holes line up perfectly.
Got there in the end Nobby
the trials and tribulations of miniature engineering😉😉👍👍🚂🚂🎅🎅
ATB
Kev
I’m learning a lot making this model Kev. My lack of experience is getting better all the time. But it is fun. Nobby
Hi Nobby
Another interesting video, a few problems which you dealt with.
I think you could do with a set of collets for Myford would make holding small parts much easier, I wouldn’t be without mine
All the best
Rob
Thanks Robert I do have an ER32 collet chuck for the Myford, but the biggest collet is 20mm and too small to take the cylinder caps. The answer was to move the jig further back in the lathe chuck. Got there in the end. Cheers Nobby
Your turn this week Nobby for a little oops 😂 nice recovery and no real harm done, it could have been worse! I am guessing you have a tin roof on your workshop and were filming in a storm 😂 I enjoyed the video ATB Mark
I was lucky this time Mark. Could have cut this bit out, but like to admit to my mistakes. You’re right about the rain on my tin roof. Nice special effects. Sometimes it’s pigeons landing and running along the roof. Never a dull moment. Cheers Nobby
On the mandrel, could you have drilled a pinhole at the center of the cut, think this would have eliminated the center pinch point as the cut joint was closing, or make the cut wide at the center hole. Did a cut on a washer and when I compressed it, it seemed that the center most part of the cut closed before the outer edge.
That’s a very good idea. This was the first time I’ve made a mandrel like this. I’ll remember this for next time. Cheers Nobby
Why not use non ferrous dcmt inserts better finish
I do use dcmt inserts Barry, but have been getting amazing finishes with the hss tool on my shop made diamond tool holder. Cheers Nobby
What carbide inserts are in your tool ?
I have these inserts. Dcmt070204 and Dcmt11t304
@ try dcgt inserts with 0.2 rad
Nobby with the ally part, another time put it as far in the chuck as you can. With you gripping so far back from the bronze part, there is a good chance of insufficient gripping force on the bronze. You were lucky to get away with it. Because you had nothing at the back I suspect all you did was close up the saw cut and was driving solid aluminium. Regards from Australia. Posted the comment before watching it all. See what I meant about closer in the chuck. The drill grabbed because you didn’t back the cutting edge with an oilstone.
You’re right David, was very lucky to get away with it. When I pushed the jig further back it did grip better. How are you doing? Keep in touch with me. Cheers Nobby
@@nobbysworkshopback off the cutting edge of the drill with an oilstone to stop it grabbing.
I guess I should make up a set of drills especially for brass and bronze, although some of the uncommon sizes I only have one of. I’ll get this sorted. Cheers David
Exactly what I was going to say..... grip the split bush with the jaws as directly over the rim of the casting as possible.
@@daveticehurst4191 That as well👍
Sounds arrogant of me but i could see in advance you were creating a problem for yourself by gripping so far away from where the jaw pressurec was needed, but even then a good learning opportunity for you. 😉
As with all machining in a non profit environment, its the end result that matters, not how you get there.
Fear not, in the next twenty or thirty years of learning you wiĺl be able to get it right first time, every time. Well, maybe 50% of the time, first time.😂😂
Thanks for the encouragement Chris. Would be nice to think I would learn more in the next 20 to 30 years. I’m 77 now, and may not have that much time left 😅 All the best. Nobby
@nobbysworkshop in that case, you had better start making some more mistakes, sorry, I meant learning opportunities, to speed up the experience teaching. 😉🤣🤣🤣🤣