My boss has known Tom Lieb for years! I know for a fact that we have built high horsepower big & small blocks, stuff that is over 2hp per cubic inch, with Scat rotating assembly’s! There is alot of them with parts from the mid 90s with thousands of passes on them! With no failures! Also circle track engines which are harder on parts because of the constant full throttle to 0 throttle & back again over & over! There are standard duty Scat cranks & rods that are over 10 Years old! Usually they are replaced at that point because the block has been honed so many times @ freshen up, that it cannot be run because of bore rule limits! Most of the time those shortblock assembly’s are rehoned again, pistons pins & rod bolts & all wear parts are replaced, everything Maged & then they usually get a good box standard head (AFR) (Edelbrock) ect & intake & sold as a freshend street rod engine! Even the 358s will make over 500hp on pump fuel easily! Than there run usually for the life of the car or owner! Even when people spray them with 300 of nitrous, it’s always the factory blocks that give up first! Now that’s not the same thing that happens with the other main low cost rotating assembly’s that have been around forever! We have had their rods & cranks break! More so in Big blocks! Anyway I would purchase Scat for just about anything! Jeff Lutz for along time used Scat Billet 4.250 stroke cranks! I’m not positive if he still does or not! I do know that he needed a crank immediately going back probably 7 or 8 years ago! Scat was the only one that could ship a high horsepower 4.250 billet crank immediately! Also you can break anything, especially if it’s some big retarded stroke high stress cranks! Just ask the 5.300 bs nitrous guys! When it’s time to change rods @ around 60 passes, you also replace the crankshaft! Because if you don’t, even a Sonny Bryant crank won’t live another 60 runs! Strength in any crankshaft has everything to do with the main journal to stroke size! The more stroke, the weaker the crankshaft is! Thanks again! Sorry again for the book! Engine stuff most have no clue about 😂😂😂😂!
The deal with the rod bolts is a little more complex than he explained. The issue is the fatigue life and yield strength, not peak strength why the stronger alloys are more critical. The rod bolts will get pulled on over and over. And since they're so small, with such a high surface area (think about the surface area of the threads), that's where you can have the bolt fatigue out. Where as the rod is a solid chunk of metal. The stress concentration that the bolt experiences also will generally be much higher, again important for the fatigue life. Torque rarely ever gets evenly distributed through the bolt, unfortunately. And the connecting rod really isn't a place for nuts and studs, especially a steel one. The connecting rod will transfer every blast of cylinder pressure and acceleration of the crank. Then when you think about stress concentrating on the thread, remember that this is usually some kind of modified chromoly. And it's very hard. So when a little bit of stress builds up, and gives way, like a piece of glass the rest of it will go. Not quite shattering like a piece of glass, but it will continue the break completely. This gets into through hardening and softer materials internal to shafts... Like the crankshaft... Shafts are often softer in the core for the reason of increased durability. Less likely to completely fail if stress is high. But that is completely dependent on the alloy of chromoly (which there are too many to even begin). Some chromoly alloys can be through hardened to the low 50's HRC and they will have fantastic strength, and durability. Others won't, and will be better off creating a super hard outer layer closer to 60 HRC, and a softer inner core. That will give the best properties for the application, for the material at hand. So, a higher strength rod bolt is still seriously useful. Because you can allow the rod bolt to live under its yield point. That means it will have more strength, for longer. For example, the Callies ultra h beams (I have a set), use the l19 over the arp2000. But, they also change the dimensions around the cap mating face to make it stronger, both in terms of fatigue and ultimate tensile strength. Unfortunately it's never simple. That's what makes the right process so important. That's what makes testing so important. That's what makes it really so cool. Always enjoy your videos, hopefully someone can get something out of this comment.
My recent experience with a Scat forged rotating assembly for my 355” Chevy it is a top quality kit. The components included in the kit like piston rings and bearings are too notch components and these are the types of items other companies save money on by providing lower end components. My crank only needed a small amount of weight removed to be balanced, less than 100 grams. I can also confirm that the rods were all weighed even in my kit that was sold as an unbalances assembly.
I’ve had a Scat 9000 series cast crank in my stock block 393 Windsor for 5 years. Made over 600hp n/a and has hundreds of 1/8 mile passes on it, on slicks, with a stick shift. I just bought a Scat lightweight crank for my 445 cubic inch, Higgins headed sbf. Knife edged, gun drilled, lightening holes. It wasn’t cheap, but I’ve always had the best of luck with Scat stuff.
Had the pleasure and good fortune to be introduced to Tom several years ago by a mutual acquaintance, sitting in his office and chatting and then personally getting shown around I think was a personal highlight in my 58 years, a truly genuine bloke, bit like walking thru the chocolate factory with willy wonka, thank you Tom
David Vizard has convinced me scat has very good products i have scat h-beam rods im getting ready to use in a bbc and scat crank shaft for street use thanks Eric great video
Awesome video Eric. I've been to China and I've been through some of their factories. If you have a quality issue with stuff from China, it's a procurement issue, you are buying from the wrong suppliers. Exactly the same problem as you get in your home country. Thoroughly enjoying these videos Eric. Would love to see more. Regards Greg
If I could ask Tom anything, it would be about the change in supply, from Raw USA forgings to Chinese imports with USA finishing work. There are very few crankshafts on the market under $2500-$3000 USD that use USA Forgings. The reason that we can buy $1000 USD forged crankshafts is simply due to China's Forging power/price and the finishing work that takes place in the USA, even after taking shipping into account.
I always go by the ARP recommended torque for the rod bolts instead of using the stretch gauge, for 2 reasons 1) it's faster and 2) I've been too cheap to buy the stretch gauge. But now I have a better reason!
Killer video man, those rod bearing look excellent, I put around 40k miles on a set of those in a 383 that had detonation issues early in its life, and I’ll have to say they didn’t have near the coating left as yours, but I threw some fresh ones in about several years ago, it’s a solid roller motor that I daily drive, I’ve put about 20k on it since, I’ve learned so much about quality of parts with that motor
That's a really interesting note on the difference with the Ford requested crank machinery. Do Ford production cranks get machined like this regardless of supplier? I ask because the forged crank in the '03/'04 Mustang Cobra was made by Kellogg, and John Mihovetz has actually ran them in his 2500+HP turbo 4.6l Mod motor(w/ aluminum production block & heads, water in both - these combos are damn anomalies). Pretty strong piece you could say lol. Mentioned that he had to switch to billet as he got closer to 3000HP, the Kellogg Cobra cranks were starting to twist at that level lol. Great info, really dig these videos! Would be nice to have a little B-role at least if you could film in there, but either way it's nice learning about these companies and their processes.
I get it, the crank manufacturer doesn't want you drilling their crankshaft full of holes to balance it, they'd rather take it out to the harmonic balancer or the flywheel, I always internally balance my engines so I don't have a bastard harmonic balancer that requires special balancing if you have to replace, it just makes it easier for instance if you want to go from a automatic to a 4-speed setup, you simply use a neutral balanced flywheel. I run into this problem before that's why I always internally balanced my engines
Hey Eric great video, you talked a little bit about the overlap of the crank journal and the rod journal, I’ve always thought this is an important characteristic if any crank, because of the wave harmonics that go down the crank at high rpm. I built a Dart 400, 400 mains with 2.1 rod journals to get the most overlap. Smaller bearings might have a slightly slower bearing speed, but to me it’s a time bomb waiting to happen. The 400 has a forged Scat 3.75 crank, (internally balanced) 5.7 Scat Pro I-beam rods and Probe pistons. Ironically the tow rigs 383 has a Scat 9000 ext. bal. Scat makes a great product, never had a problem with any of there stuff.
The bit about crank journal grinding direction is something that wouldn't cross anyone else's mind. Talk about someone who eats and breathes this stuff, Tom is the one!
Finally watched this. Great video and Tom is full of in depth knowledge of his business. Even David gave kudos to Tom about what he does with his products. I trust SCAT products.
That's pretty sweet that a balanced crank is just a phone call away with your weight numbers. 19:20 I was happy to find that out. I like Subaru rally cars and didn't understand counterweight boxer cranks before then. My thought was "Boxer engine pistons are counterweights, having any extra weight on the crank is a waste." I'm glad there is a reason it isn't a waste. Subaru turbo cranks need all the help they can get. I also read that the guys turning up the boost on Jeep inline sixes prefer the early 12 weight crank. 21:12 I always thought it would be way better if the balancer and flywheel were balanced alone. Flywheels won't last forever, plus since flywheels need a regrind at a clutch job, that could throw off the measurement again. 32:13 That would explain why the Wiseco Boostline has less metal in that area. They didn't put a hole in the rod, but they did reduce the amount of metal there. 33:41 I like that when buying a new car, the company has to list where various things come from. The longest lasting cars in my family were mostly made in the USA. They were from Honda's Marysville Ohio assembly line. My first new car was a VW MKIV Jetta. Final Assembly point: Mexico, Engine: Hungary, Transmission: Japan.
I also prefer I-beams because they tend to be lighter and typically don't have clearance issues that H-beams can have. I have some 6.125" Scat rods in an engine I'm about to fire up now. This video reaffirms my decision to go with Scat.
Spent my last 40 years dreaming of buying a good performance motor from the GOOD OL U,S,A chose a highly reputable familly with engine programs going back to the indy 500 and agreed on a New GM block and a 4340 Scat bottom end rotating assembly and AFR 195 heads. Paid my money, waited 3 months nothing going on, chased up the engine finally got it shipped to Australia. Engine had 130lbs cylinder pressure and 415hp on a dyno.. Pulled the cam and sump off engine is a Scat cast crank the basic scat rods and no name pistons. Not good, its a $250 Scat chinese crank and the no nothing hyd roller cam and no name lifters we replaced with a solid setup, got cylinder pressure up to 180lbs and picked up 68hp. Spoke to Scat who were great and they said the cast 383 chev crank should be good for 600hp. I bet the 4343 stuff they make is pretty good and the rods with the large bolts look good. Its a long way from Australia to Phoenix AZ to get my money back from the engine builder. I will now deal direct with Scat and get a dart block and start again AND BUILD IT HERE. Ps, the family buisness is now run by the son in law, the people i dreamed of are all retired long ago. Scat were great to deal with and very helpfull. i am pro American, Love American people and everything i buy is from America. Steve in Australia.
Doug 69 Chevy, actually my rods are new.. I had them made back In 2004 and pit the project on the back burner for longer than I wanted.. Working on it a little at a time till I bumped into this minor road block.. So What I heard you say was to apply lapping compound to the threads and lap the bolt threads to the beam threads..I know lapping g compound comes in various grits, though have only seen coarse and fine but I'm sure if I research it I can find some finer grits.. I have a couple small cans of clover compound.. But I'll look for others on line..All I see now days is permatex compound in a tube which doesn't give you any choices of grits.. Yes, I'm not looking to ruining my rods either as I have a piece of history with these rods.. Thank you for your time and in helping me to see the big picture..
Eric, I build maybe one engine every 10 years, so you're cooking compared to me!! Thanks for the video buddy, I've always been interested in the Scat operations! Now I know! 😉
Hey Eric great info. I’d like for you to take a tour of Trend Performance (Diamond Pistons) and find out just why in the hell they are having such an issue designing a piston for my small block!!!🤣🤣
The Chinese can make items that are just as good as anywhere else. How to make a quality product isn't a secret and they have been making stuff far longer than we have. They can also turn out cheap throwaway stuff at unbelievable prices as we all know. The difference is what the importer is willing to pay and the quality they demand. I hate the fact that our money is going to a communist country but until we are willing to work for peanuts or pay a lot more for products we are stuck with importing a lot of what we use. I worked on some sailboats that were made in China and they were masterpieces! They also weren't cheap.
You got me looking at the jurnel I have on the car and motor and transmissions I built for my 62Belvedere Ramcharger car I put this drive traine I built.
I admire Scat. Back in the day there was this thinking that only a huge corporation could make cranks. Almost like dogma that said "you cant get there from here". Scat took some hits early on. I remember a photo in a magazine some guy posted of a Scat crank that was heavily welded. The caption read," had to do all this to get this Scat crank to balance". No context of what pistons and rods they were using. I admire them for all the money they've put into research to end up with a better product for us gear heads.
One thing I thought was unique about the 3.75 stroke 9000 series crank if using a 638 or 880 one piece rear block the crank balances internally on the front and externally on the rear like OEM using a 350 style harmonic damper where you don't have to worry about swinging a heavy counterweight off the snout causing the crank to flex at higher rpms.
To make that work using a Scat 9000 crank I've always had to put a slug or two of heavy metal in the front counterweight. It makes a nicer job vs using a 400 balancer and drilling the hell out of the counterweight.
The strength of the crankshaft webbing is exactly why I've never cared for stroker crankshafts, the more overlap you have between the rod bearing and main bearing, the stronger it is. It's also one of the reasons Ford went with a 3.0" main bearing in the 351M/400. It's funny because the aftermarket has borrowed that 3.0" bearing to reduce the spaghetti noodle effect on LS cranks.
I would like to hear from Tom more about the development of the 427 engine that was used in the 24 hours race . I had heard Ford had spent a lot of money doing this . I did not know that they sourced the crank and possibly the rods to . I seen some of the videos of them running the engines transmission ect for x amount of rpm that would be seen on the track
I made a billet crankshaft for a 6cyl pulling tractor. I used an 8" bar of 4340 36" long and it weighed 800 lbs. It only cost 800.00 for the blank. This was a few years ago so its probably more now.
i try to tell people that when you give a machine shop a spec then thats how it gets finished it doest matter if he is chinese or mexican or american if the works not right you dont go back
I personally feel that if Industries were not regulated to death and being bleed dry like everyone right now, and we allowed the metal section to function as needed, that we could make forges and casting plants that were better than the Chinese and cheaper. Maybe I am wrong. But i am not on the laws causing prices to increase. For whatever reasons. It’s fing sad to me. We allow this. Very sad. But I do have a scar 3.85 stroke forged kit in my sbf. It’s nice. Have a good weekend.
Interesting debate about I beam and H beam,i have always used I beam,scat 4340 with arp 2000 bolts in my street 408 670 hp clevelands never had a problem,in my race car 396 cleveland 750hp, i used Lunati pro mod,i dont like H beam because they weigh more,wheather its proven or not,i dont like the scopping of the oil compared to I beam,i think you lose hp
Scat small block ford cranks always at some point, have major chattering on the rod and or mains. Whoever is finish grinding these cranks is not dressing the wheels correctly and or poor qc. There are several better machined cranks then scat. Not to mention scat is the last one in the ford camp that doesnt offer an internal balance crank without needing a ton of tungsten put in it. I wont touch on how badly the counterweights are clocked on the 4 inch cast small ford cranks, those are atrocious.
I (RESPECTFULLY) disagree about SCAT's "QUALITY CONTROL" procedures.. I built a 383 stroker in 2001. I cleaned (EVERYTHING) with brushes in a bathtub with soap and water "PRE-ASSEMBLY" you could lick it, eat of fit, etc! The 9000 series 1pc seal cast crankshaft had machine burrs inside of the crank oiling holes that no "BRUSH" could remove no matter how many times through it etc, and only with several heat cycles did they weaken enough to release/break off via the pressurized oil that went to no 1 bearing and so on. Ate the bottom end bearings and several crank throws up! NEVER AGAIN! Eagle forged please!
I have a Ohio crank shaft 4.275 stroke and a 7.100 manso aluminum rods crank is for a top flue motor and yes it's a Hemi KB block and heads aluminum water less it's got a lot more cool stuff inside like 1.7 rockers steel.
So get it to 10-20% within it's stretch, so any more stretch would be more difficult , or within an acceptable amount of bearing clearance that may come from bolt stretch ?
From the pipelines, America doesn't always have the best metal foundaries, sometimes it's Germany, sometimes it's Greece... last I knew china didn't have good control of their cooling process. It should be only a matter of time though.
I saw a foundry in china that was built in some harbour , so when they got thru with their heat treating - they would just lower the rack of red hot pipe right into the water. Environment? whats that?
The quality control the products go through when being shipped back into the states and before the customers purchase makes a big difference as well. I prefer to support american made but most of the things we use on a daily basis come imported to save us cost and we dont even pay attention. Its not gonna pain me to purchase from Scat knowing the manufacturing process
Scat cranks have plenty of QC problems, small block ford anyways. Also the cast cranks are not even touched here in the states. They are shipped to scat and scat put them in a scat box, still in the original shipping boxes from china.
I've got a question that I can't get an answer to.. I have a set of Greg Cunningham Titanium rods I had made for a Subaru EJ25.. Cunningham is no longer in business as Greg is 93.. I emailed Lisa Kubo who back in the day had a Honda campaign and was running Cunningham Rods.. She told me to be sure and lap the rod bolts really well before installing them.. My question is how do you lap a rod bolt.. The bolts that came with Greg's Ti rods are 3/8 Cunningham A H1 286,000 psi. His rods besides being shot peened are a gold plasma moly coated at 332gr ea. Here's an interesting side note, all of his beams have vertical grain pattern & the cap has horizontal grain.. Greg said that was to keep the big end round.. A second question is about rod bolt lube. Cunningham recommend using 80/90 gear oil in the threads. That seems a little thick to me, would ARP ULTRA-TORQUE be better or is there a reason that 80/90 was recommend.. Since they are closed for business it makes it kinda hard to get my questions answered.. Thanks for a great video..
I know rod bolt lube for titanium rods is critical due to the steel bolts galling the threads in the titanium. That's probably why Lisa Kubo mentioned lapping the bolts before installation. Crower recommends Detroit Diesel "peanut butter" assembly lube for their titanium rods . Also, don't step torque titanium rod bolts to final torque, they will gall and lock up.
@@markgeletzke6328 Hey Mark, sorry I have never heard of lapping rod bolt threads until you mentioned it here. It 's done in other general machining mostly non-automotive, using lapping compound on the threads like lapping valve seats. I know there's really fine compunds like 1000 - 1200 grit, but I don't know about the potential risk in damaging your titanium rods. I would think if your rods are used, you should be fine without lapping the threads.
Wath dou you tink good ported 292 Turbo heads can flow 2.05 1.60 ??? Thes are good Heads in The 70-71 i tink deas War build!. Want tou now abaut The 492 Heads ported warh can this flow??
The 10,000$ 3,200 gram Bob 94lbs Vascomax Bryant cranks I use are good if they make it 2.5 miles. Then I cut them up and make Sweet heavy but small Malory weight bars… or 60-70 lbs helmets 😜🤪🥸 if you know what I mean😂😂🤦♂️
@@WeingartnerRacing I just commented on the 2 barrel valve sticking video. My comment was a guess about what might be happening. I would like to know what you think about my theory.
Did you notice any cryogenic steps like they are doing to new rifle barrels now? Purely for normalizing. Might be overthinking this but your opinion would be cool man. Thanks!
I live in California and I work in San Francisco and it's pretty much paid parking everywhere land is expensive they don't want to waste it on parking spots...
Ah, w-a-a-a-y back in the day I just knew them for making hotrod parts for the air cooled VW. Crankshafts, and every thing else, doesn't care where it's made - the important thing is the quality control and standards set by the people having the stuff made. Back in the day, and for many things it still is, there was a lot of crap being made by USoA factories - on that, when people say "American", it can refer to anywhere in the Americas - from Canada to Chile. I really don't like the final balancing being done by removing material from the damper, or flywheel, as while it's fine if everything is kept the same, as soon as a flywheel or damper is replaced it's goingto introduce an imbalance. If the initially drilled imbalance from the material removal is known, it can be matched, but it's so much easier if the flywheel and damper assemblies are all neutral balance and it's all done to the crankshaft. Uh some seems to be mis-understanding the whole tensile strength, strain, and bolt pre-load thing. Same with "billet", and the rest.
I put a budget 383 together for a friend 13.5-1 ,, scat h beam rods ,,I put a big hydraulic cam in it ,, low budget , the isky 304 mega cam ,, he wound it to 8000 in a circle track car for 2 seasons and this guy raced every week. I begged him to pull it after he said the oil pressure bounced a little ,, that this thing had over performed by a mile already so let's check it ,, he blew it up in his drive way , a rod bolt broke ,, I don't blame the rod bolt for that ,, you still have to use common sense ,, if you see a problem ,, shut it off
I love scat, I believe it's an awesome company, I heard the story about the owner being a man of his word before, I have only bought a couple cranks, the cast steel is an awesome upgrade for a old iron crank, not as strong as a forged crank, but still a good crank for upward of 500hp, my SBC crank was considerably lighter than the stock 3.480" SBC crank, seem the stock was 55+/-lbs the scat crank was over 10lbs lighter, and China can make good parts, they will make the quality you pay for, they got the rep for poor quality because greedy ppl do not want to pay for quality work and QC to ensure proper work is completed . They are willing to do nearly anything, very poor quality if you don't care they don't care, they will not care if not paid to care, the language barrier and culture can be issues at times, but there is reputable mfg, who can do good work but just like anything quality cost, it would still be cheaper, b it seems scat has a good mfg facility over there, I never heard of any complaints, scat makes good stuff at a good price!
Ohio buys from the same factory as k1, lunati voo doo, rpm, eagle, liberty and these cranks are all better machined than scat. Consistency not even close.
I’ve built LOTS of engines, American V8’s, Japanese 4&6’s, and Air cooled VW and Porsche and have ALWAYS had great results with Scat! One other issue why so much stuff is forged and cast/machined in China is because of some of the absolutely ridiculous laws the EPA mandates foundry’s must follow! We had an internationally renowned maker of stainless steel and bronze hatches for the marine industry finally give up and move all manufacturing to China because the cost of having to follow all he environmental laws made it impossible to remain competitive. So now all those jobs are in China, along with the associated $$ being done in a factory “too dirty” for the EPA. Not the win anyone with a brain thinks it is.
Doing the crank balancing on the harmonic balancer and flywheel/flexplate is a horrendous idea. You are setting up your customer for disaster down the road. Changing from a stick to auto and now you have a customer screaming that the engine is vibrating his teeth out of his face because he has no clue that he needs to take that wheel to a shop with a crank balancer and replicate the old wheel. Horrendous idea noone should follow.
Well In my eyes Eagle and Scat are direct competitors so I would love for Eagle to have you come to their place. RPM company would be cool for you to visit too. I have Eagle 5.78 H-Beams pn# CRS5780F3D in my 359 Cleveland. I put those because - well Eagle says they hold more power and rpm than the I-Beams . Eagle says 750hp and 7500 rpm for H Beam and at the time I bought the H Beams they said the I beams were only good to 550hp. I actually just looked and only Eagle offers H beams for a Cleveland 5.78" (thanks BRANDON) - Scat has no listing for a Cleveland rod to compare. Anyways, I wonder if its just a marketing thing to advertise power levels for different rod designs? Most of the time I see LS people using I beams and they work fine. I also hear companies under rate their rods power so when someone says the put 750hp to a rod that is advertised to hold 850hp that they are lying because the rod till actually take 1000hp. 😉 Maybe ask the Scat guys if they under rate their stuff as advertised 🤔 P.S. I know you said you don't like messing with iron heads but I was wondering if you would be interested in fiddling with my Aussie 2v Cleveland heads? Maybe put them on your flow bench - see what they do and maybe see if you can improve them. Also I need the rocker stands milled and tapped for 7/16 rocker studs. You say you don't get alot of Cleveland stuff - I have some. I also have a set of "73 open chamber 4v heads. Of coarse I know you are busy with customer stuff and I'm in no big hurry - just wondering. Im only 4 hrs from you so I would deliver in person.
As a tragic playing with Clevos forget trying to get much more power from 302C heads. They work well, better than a 4V generally but even as heavy as they are are fairly fragile. Simply buy aftermarket as they are better than any 302 head. My research has me with CHI 3V. I beieve twisted wedge are excellent as well. As an Aussie I can talk to them and get semi custom heads. I have given up on anchors and am going small and light!! 302W roller block with 3Vs and 5.4" rods. Will not make as much torque but far lighter and better oiled.
Awesome thread need toget in touch with you have few setups make some crazy power on diffrent phone it's been messed with there 9 accounts people stole and robbed in real life seriously people are pathetic too do what they did to me
I really enjoy your content! My father was the first guy to make a “CNC Billet” Hemi head in 81 for fuel and alky cars. My god father is Brad Anderson. Needles to say I spent my whole life around some of the best cylinder heads guys in motor sports. The smartest guys are always humble because the more you learn the more you realize you don’t know. It’s a moving target. Your always spot on from what I have been taught. All the smartest guys will always inform you their not always right and make sure to state facts from opinion. I commend you for that. Your channel is the best for the grass roots stuff. I have learned a lot by binge watching your channel. Hit me up if would would like to attend a NHRA National even. Ill take care of your vip tickets and you can hang in our Snap-on hospitality next to are pit🦾😎
I retired from Scat. I loved working there. Tom really demands quality from his suppliers.
My boss has known Tom Lieb for years! I know for a fact that we have built high horsepower big & small blocks, stuff that is over 2hp per cubic inch, with Scat rotating assembly’s! There is alot of them with parts from the mid 90s with thousands of passes on them! With no failures! Also circle track engines which are harder on parts because of the constant full throttle to 0 throttle & back again over & over! There are standard duty Scat cranks & rods that are over 10
Years old! Usually they are replaced at that point because the block has been honed so many times @ freshen up, that it cannot be run because of bore rule limits! Most of the time those shortblock assembly’s are rehoned again, pistons pins & rod bolts & all wear parts are replaced, everything Maged & then they usually get a good box standard head (AFR) (Edelbrock) ect & intake & sold as a freshend street rod engine! Even the 358s will make over 500hp on pump fuel easily! Than there run usually for the life of the car or owner! Even when people spray them with 300 of nitrous, it’s always the factory blocks that give up first! Now that’s not the same thing that happens with the other main low cost rotating assembly’s that have been around forever! We have had their rods & cranks break! More so in Big blocks! Anyway I would purchase Scat for just about anything! Jeff Lutz for along time used Scat Billet 4.250 stroke cranks! I’m not positive if he still does or not! I do know that he needed a crank immediately going back probably 7 or 8 years ago! Scat was the only one that could ship a high horsepower 4.250 billet crank immediately! Also you can break anything, especially if it’s some big retarded stroke high stress cranks! Just ask the 5.300 bs nitrous guys! When it’s time to change rods @ around 60 passes, you also replace the crankshaft! Because if you don’t, even a Sonny Bryant crank won’t live another 60 runs! Strength in any crankshaft has everything to do with the main journal to stroke size! The more stroke, the weaker the crankshaft is! Thanks again! Sorry again for the book! Engine stuff most have no clue about 😂😂😂😂!
The deal with the rod bolts is a little more complex than he explained. The issue is the fatigue life and yield strength, not peak strength why the stronger alloys are more critical. The rod bolts will get pulled on over and over. And since they're so small, with such a high surface area (think about the surface area of the threads), that's where you can have the bolt fatigue out. Where as the rod is a solid chunk of metal. The stress concentration that the bolt experiences also will generally be much higher, again important for the fatigue life. Torque rarely ever gets evenly distributed through the bolt, unfortunately. And the connecting rod really isn't a place for nuts and studs, especially a steel one. The connecting rod will transfer every blast of cylinder pressure and acceleration of the crank.
Then when you think about stress concentrating on the thread, remember that this is usually some kind of modified chromoly. And it's very hard. So when a little bit of stress builds up, and gives way, like a piece of glass the rest of it will go. Not quite shattering like a piece of glass, but it will continue the break completely. This gets into through hardening and softer materials internal to shafts... Like the crankshaft... Shafts are often softer in the core for the reason of increased durability. Less likely to completely fail if stress is high. But that is completely dependent on the alloy of chromoly (which there are too many to even begin). Some chromoly alloys can be through hardened to the low 50's HRC and they will have fantastic strength, and durability. Others won't, and will be better off creating a super hard outer layer closer to 60 HRC, and a softer inner core. That will give the best properties for the application, for the material at hand.
So, a higher strength rod bolt is still seriously useful. Because you can allow the rod bolt to live under its yield point. That means it will have more strength, for longer.
For example, the Callies ultra h beams (I have a set), use the l19 over the arp2000. But, they also change the dimensions around the cap mating face to make it stronger, both in terms of fatigue and ultimate tensile strength.
Unfortunately it's never simple. That's what makes the right process so important. That's what makes testing so important. That's what makes it really so cool.
Always enjoy your videos, hopefully someone can get something out of this comment.
My recent experience with a Scat forged rotating assembly for my 355” Chevy it is a top quality kit. The components included in the kit like piston rings and bearings are too notch components and these are the types of items other companies save money on by providing lower end components.
My crank only needed a small amount of weight removed to be balanced, less than 100 grams.
I can also confirm that the rods were all weighed even in my kit that was sold as an unbalances assembly.
Bolt stretch was absolutely great info.
I’ve had a Scat 9000 series cast crank in my stock block 393 Windsor for 5 years. Made over 600hp n/a and has hundreds of 1/8 mile passes on it, on slicks, with a stick shift. I just bought a Scat lightweight crank for my 445 cubic inch, Higgins headed sbf. Knife edged, gun drilled, lightening holes. It wasn’t cheap, but I’ve always had the best of luck with Scat stuff.
Im about to put together a 393.. what pistons did you end up using? Im looking at the Wiseco PTS500A3
@@Saleen85111 they are SRP’s. 1/16-1/16-3/16 ring pack. Part number 138734 I believe.
Had the pleasure and good fortune to be introduced to Tom several years ago by a mutual acquaintance, sitting in his office and chatting and then personally getting shown around I think was a personal highlight in my 58 years, a truly genuine bloke, bit like walking thru the chocolate factory with willy wonka, thank you Tom
David Vizard has convinced me scat has very good products i have scat h-beam rods im getting ready to use in a bbc and scat crank shaft for street use thanks Eric great video
I've used SCAT, they're great and work well. I'm sure if you're pushing 11,000rpm you'll need more expensive parts but fot 99% of us SCAT is fine.
Awesome video Eric. I've been to China and I've been through some of their factories. If you have a quality issue with stuff from China, it's a procurement issue, you are buying from the wrong suppliers. Exactly the same problem as you get in your home country. Thoroughly enjoying these videos Eric. Would love to see more. Regards Greg
If I could ask Tom anything, it would be about the change in supply, from Raw USA forgings to Chinese imports with USA finishing work. There are very few crankshafts on the market under $2500-$3000 USD that use USA Forgings. The reason that we can buy $1000 USD forged crankshafts is simply due to China's Forging power/price and the finishing work that takes place in the USA, even after taking shipping into account.
I always go by the ARP recommended torque for the rod bolts instead of using the stretch gauge, for 2 reasons 1) it's faster and 2) I've been too cheap to buy the stretch gauge. But now I have a better reason!
Killer video man, those rod bearing look excellent, I put around 40k miles on a set of those in a 383 that had detonation issues early in its life, and I’ll have to say they didn’t have near the coating left as yours, but I threw some fresh ones in about several years ago, it’s a solid roller motor that I daily drive, I’ve put about 20k on it since, I’ve learned so much about quality of parts with that motor
That's a really interesting note on the difference with the Ford requested crank machinery. Do Ford production cranks get machined like this regardless of supplier? I ask because the forged crank in the '03/'04 Mustang Cobra was made by Kellogg, and John Mihovetz has actually ran them in his 2500+HP turbo 4.6l Mod motor(w/ aluminum production block & heads, water in both - these combos are damn anomalies). Pretty strong piece you could say lol. Mentioned that he had to switch to billet as he got closer to 3000HP, the Kellogg Cobra cranks were starting to twist at that level lol.
Great info, really dig these videos! Would be nice to have a little B-role at least if you could film in there, but either way it's nice learning about these companies and their processes.
I get it, the crank manufacturer doesn't want you drilling their crankshaft full of holes to balance it, they'd rather take it out to the harmonic balancer or the flywheel, I always internally balance my engines so I don't have a bastard harmonic balancer that requires special balancing if you have to replace, it just makes it easier for instance if you want to go from a automatic to a 4-speed setup, you simply use a neutral balanced flywheel. I run into this problem before that's why I always internally balanced my engines
I've owned a Superlight Scat 400 Chev crank since 2006. Decent stuff, bearings always look good.
Hey Eric great video, you talked a little bit about the overlap of the crank journal and the rod journal, I’ve always thought this is an important characteristic if any crank, because of the wave harmonics that go down the crank at high rpm. I built a Dart 400, 400 mains with 2.1 rod journals to get the most overlap. Smaller bearings might have a slightly slower bearing speed, but to me it’s a time bomb waiting to happen. The 400 has a forged Scat 3.75 crank, (internally balanced) 5.7 Scat Pro I-beam rods and Probe pistons. Ironically the tow rigs 383 has a Scat 9000 ext. bal. Scat makes a great product, never had a problem with any of there stuff.
The bit about crank journal grinding direction is something that wouldn't cross anyone else's mind. Talk about someone who eats and breathes this stuff, Tom is the one!
Finally watched this. Great video and Tom is full of in depth knowledge of his business. Even David gave kudos to Tom about what he does with his products. I trust SCAT products.
That's pretty sweet that a balanced crank is just a phone call away with your weight numbers.
19:20 I was happy to find that out. I like Subaru rally cars and didn't understand counterweight boxer cranks before then. My thought was "Boxer engine pistons are counterweights, having any extra weight on the crank is a waste." I'm glad there is a reason it isn't a waste. Subaru turbo cranks need all the help they can get. I also read that the guys turning up the boost on Jeep inline sixes prefer the early 12 weight crank.
21:12 I always thought it would be way better if the balancer and flywheel were balanced alone. Flywheels won't last forever, plus since flywheels need a regrind at a clutch job, that could throw off the measurement again.
32:13 That would explain why the Wiseco Boostline has less metal in that area. They didn't put a hole in the rod, but they did reduce the amount of metal there.
33:41 I like that when buying a new car, the company has to list where various things come from. The longest lasting cars in my family were mostly made in the USA. They were from Honda's Marysville Ohio assembly line. My first new car was a VW MKIV Jetta. Final Assembly point: Mexico, Engine: Hungary, Transmission: Japan.
So I’m interested in knowing more backstory on Tom. I enjoy hearing how and why entrepreneurs make decisions and mistakes. Great video
I also prefer I-beams because they tend to be lighter and typically don't have clearance issues that H-beams can have. I have some 6.125" Scat rods in an engine I'm about to fire up now. This video reaffirms my decision to go with Scat.
Spent my last 40 years dreaming of buying a good performance motor from the GOOD OL U,S,A chose a highly reputable familly with engine programs going back to the indy 500 and agreed on a New GM block and a 4340 Scat bottom end rotating assembly and AFR 195 heads. Paid my money, waited 3 months nothing going on, chased up the engine finally got it shipped to Australia. Engine had 130lbs cylinder pressure and 415hp on a dyno.. Pulled the cam and sump off engine is a Scat cast crank the basic scat rods and no name pistons. Not good, its a $250 Scat chinese crank and the no nothing hyd roller cam and no name lifters we replaced with a solid setup, got cylinder pressure up to 180lbs and picked up 68hp. Spoke to Scat who were great and they said the cast 383 chev crank should be good for 600hp. I bet the 4343 stuff they make is pretty good and the rods with the large bolts look good. Its a long way from Australia to Phoenix AZ to get my money back from the engine builder. I will now deal direct with Scat and get a dart block and start again AND BUILD IT HERE. Ps, the family buisness is now run by the son in law, the people i dreamed of are all retired long ago. Scat were great to deal with and very helpfull. i am pro American, Love American people and everything i buy is from America. Steve in Australia.
Doug 69 Chevy, actually my rods are new.. I had them made back In 2004 and pit the project on the back burner for longer than I wanted.. Working on it a little at a time till I bumped into this minor road block.. So What I heard you say was to apply lapping compound to the threads and lap the bolt threads to the beam threads..I know lapping g compound comes in various grits, though have only seen coarse and fine but I'm sure if I research it I can find some finer grits.. I have a couple small cans of clover compound.. But I'll look for others on line..All I see now days is permatex compound in a tube which doesn't give you any choices of grits.. Yes, I'm not looking to ruining my rods either as I have a piece of history with these rods.. Thank you for your time and in helping me to see the big picture..
Eric, I build maybe one engine every 10 years, so you're cooking compared to me!!
Thanks for the video buddy, I've always been interested in the Scat operations! Now I know! 😉
Hey Eric great info. I’d like for you to take a tour of Trend Performance (Diamond Pistons) and find out just why in the hell they are having such an issue designing a piston for my small block!!!🤣🤣
The Chinese can make items that are just as good as anywhere else. How to make a quality product isn't a secret and they have been making stuff far longer than we have. They can also turn out cheap throwaway stuff at unbelievable prices as we all know. The difference is what the importer is willing to pay and the quality they demand. I hate the fact that our money is going to a communist country but until we are willing to work for peanuts or pay a lot more for products we are stuck with importing a lot of what we use. I worked on some sailboats that were made in China and they were masterpieces! They also weren't cheap.
It's hard to believe you can still buy quality parts for a fair price today. Scat has always been at the top of my list.
You got me looking at the jurnel I have on the car and motor and transmissions I built for my 62Belvedere Ramcharger car I put this drive traine I built.
I admire Scat. Back in the day there was this thinking that only a huge corporation could make cranks. Almost like dogma that said "you cant get there from here". Scat took some hits early on. I remember a photo in a magazine some guy posted of a Scat crank that was heavily welded. The caption read," had to do all this to get this Scat crank to balance". No context of what pistons and rods they were using. I admire them for all the money they've put into research to end up with a better product for us gear heads.
One thing I thought was unique about the 3.75 stroke 9000 series crank if using a 638 or 880 one piece rear block the crank balances internally on the front and externally on the rear like OEM using a 350 style harmonic damper where you don't have to worry about swinging a heavy counterweight off the snout causing the crank to flex at higher rpms.
To make that work using a Scat 9000 crank I've always had to put a slug or two of heavy metal in the front counterweight. It makes a nicer job vs using a 400 balancer and drilling the hell out of the counterweight.
The strength of the crankshaft webbing is exactly why I've never cared for stroker crankshafts, the more overlap you have between the rod bearing and main bearing, the stronger it is. It's also one of the reasons Ford went with a 3.0" main bearing in the 351M/400. It's funny because the aftermarket has borrowed that 3.0" bearing to reduce the spaghetti noodle effect on LS cranks.
Wow, much obliged Sir, scintillating indeed.
I would like to hear from Tom more about the development of the 427 engine that was used in the 24 hours race . I had heard Ford had spent a lot of money doing this . I did not know that they sourced the crank and possibly the rods to . I seen some of the videos of them running the engines transmission ect for x amount of rpm that would be seen on the track
I made a billet crankshaft for a 6cyl pulling tractor. I used an 8" bar of 4340 36" long and it weighed 800 lbs. It only cost 800.00 for the blank. This was a few years ago so its probably more now.
Thank you for your knowledge 💪🏽
i try to tell people that when you give a machine shop a spec then thats how it gets finished it doest matter if he is chinese or mexican or american if the works not right you dont go back
I loved the video. Thank you.
I personally feel that if Industries were not regulated to death and being bleed dry like everyone right now, and we allowed the metal section to function as needed, that we could make forges and casting plants that were better than the Chinese and cheaper. Maybe I am wrong. But i am not on the laws causing prices to increase. For whatever reasons. It’s fing sad to me. We allow this. Very sad. But I do have a scar 3.85 stroke forged kit in my sbf. It’s nice. Have a good weekend.
Interesting debate about I beam and H beam,i have always used I beam,scat 4340 with arp 2000 bolts in my street 408 670 hp clevelands never had a problem,in my race car 396 cleveland 750hp, i used Lunati pro mod,i dont like H beam because they weigh more,wheather its proven or not,i dont like the scopping of the oil compared to I beam,i think you lose hp
Scat small block ford cranks always at some point, have major chattering on the rod and or mains. Whoever is finish grinding these cranks is not dressing the wheels correctly and or poor qc. There are several better machined cranks then scat. Not to mention scat is the last one in the ford camp that doesnt offer an internal balance crank without needing a ton of tungsten put in it. I wont touch on how badly the counterweights are clocked on the 4 inch cast small ford cranks, those are atrocious.
this was amazing!
Thanks
I (RESPECTFULLY) disagree about SCAT's "QUALITY CONTROL" procedures..
I built a 383 stroker in 2001.
I cleaned (EVERYTHING) with brushes in a bathtub with soap and water "PRE-ASSEMBLY" you could lick it, eat of fit, etc!
The 9000 series 1pc seal cast crankshaft had machine burrs inside of the crank oiling holes that no "BRUSH" could remove no matter how many times through it etc, and only with several heat cycles did they weaken enough to release/break off via the pressurized oil that went to no 1 bearing and so on.
Ate the bottom end bearings and several crank throws up!
NEVER AGAIN!
Eagle forged please!
I have a Ohio crank shaft 4.275 stroke and a 7.100 manso aluminum rods crank is for a top flue motor and yes it's a Hemi KB block and heads aluminum water less it's got a lot more cool stuff inside like 1.7 rockers steel.
Ive had good luck with eagle, but the kit was bought 20 yrs ago
Thier rods are typically dead on for size. Always wondered what kind of equipment they had over in China to do such a good job...lol.
So get it to 10-20% within it's stretch, so any more stretch would be more difficult , or within an acceptable amount of bearing clearance that may come from bolt stretch ?
Use scat 4340 crankshaft and 4340 6" H beam Rods myself.
From the pipelines, America doesn't always have the best metal foundaries, sometimes it's Germany, sometimes it's Greece... last I knew china didn't have good control of their cooling process. It should be only a matter of time though.
I saw a foundry in china that was built in some harbour , so when they got thru with their heat treating - they would just lower the rack of red hot pipe right into the water. Environment? whats that?
The quality control the products go through when being shipped back into the states and before the customers purchase makes a big difference as well. I prefer to support american made but most of the things we use on a daily basis come imported to save us cost and we dont even pay attention. Its not gonna pain me to purchase from Scat knowing the manufacturing process
Scat cranks have plenty of QC problems, small block ford anyways. Also the cast cranks are not even touched here in the states. They are shipped to scat and scat put them in a scat box, still in the original shipping boxes from china.
I Wonder wath are The best heads( 23 Degress) four The csb??? Ported and noth ported hope you can give me some info!!⛄️🎄⛄️🎄👍
I've got a question that I can't get an answer to.. I have a set of Greg Cunningham Titanium rods I had made for a Subaru EJ25.. Cunningham is no longer in business as Greg is 93.. I emailed Lisa Kubo who back in the day had a Honda campaign and was running Cunningham Rods.. She told me to be sure and lap the rod bolts really well before installing them..
My question is how do you lap a rod bolt.. The bolts that came with Greg's Ti rods are 3/8 Cunningham A H1 286,000 psi. His rods besides being shot peened are a gold plasma moly coated at 332gr ea. Here's an interesting side note, all of his beams have vertical grain pattern & the cap has horizontal grain.. Greg said that was to keep the big end round..
A second question is about rod bolt lube. Cunningham recommend using 80/90 gear oil in the threads. That seems a little thick to me, would ARP ULTRA-TORQUE be better or is there a reason that 80/90 was recommend.. Since they are closed for business it makes it
kinda hard to get my questions answered..
Thanks for a great video..
I know rod bolt lube for titanium rods is critical due to the steel bolts galling the threads in the titanium. That's probably why Lisa Kubo mentioned lapping the bolts before installation. Crower recommends Detroit Diesel "peanut butter" assembly lube for their titanium rods . Also, don't step torque titanium rod bolts to final torque, they will gall and lock up.
Thank you Doug 69.. Do you have any idea how to lap the con rod bolt..
@@markgeletzke6328 Hey Mark, sorry I have never heard of lapping rod bolt threads until you mentioned it here. It 's done in other general machining mostly non-automotive, using lapping compound on the threads like lapping valve seats. I know there's really fine compunds like 1000 - 1200 grit, but I don't know about the potential risk in damaging your titanium rods.
I would think if your rods are used, you should be fine without lapping the threads.
Awesome video
Wath dou you tink good ported 292 Turbo heads can flow 2.05 1.60 ??? Thes are good Heads in The 70-71 i tink deas War build!. Want tou now abaut The 492 Heads ported warh can this flow??
The 10,000$ 3,200 gram Bob 94lbs Vascomax Bryant cranks I use are good if they make it 2.5 miles. Then I cut them up and make Sweet heavy but small Malory weight bars… or 60-70 lbs helmets 😜🤪🥸 if you know what I mean😂😂🤦♂️
Those look a heck of a lot like k1 and summit rods, possibly a few others.
Great job! Good info.
thanks
@@WeingartnerRacing I just commented on the 2 barrel valve sticking video. My comment was a guess about what might be happening. I would like to know what you think about my theory.
Did you notice any cryogenic steps like they are doing to new rifle barrels now? Purely for normalizing. Might be overthinking this but your opinion would be cool man. Thanks!
Great video Eric
Any rod that shows colour (blue) failed due to insufficient oil.
You should do a review on some Carrillo stuff and cp pistons! Would you be interested in porting an atv cylinder head?
I live in California and I work in San Francisco and it's pretty much paid parking everywhere land is expensive they don't want to waste it on parking spots...
Ah, w-a-a-a-y back in the day I just knew them for making hotrod parts for the air cooled VW.
Crankshafts, and every thing else, doesn't care where it's made - the important thing is the quality control and standards set by the people having the stuff made. Back in the day, and for many things it still is, there was a lot of crap being made by USoA factories - on that, when people say "American", it can refer to anywhere in the Americas - from Canada to Chile.
I really don't like the final balancing being done by removing material from the damper, or flywheel, as while it's fine if everything is kept the same, as soon as a flywheel or damper is replaced it's goingto introduce an imbalance. If the initially drilled imbalance from the material removal is known, it can be matched, but it's so much easier if the flywheel and damper assemblies are all neutral balance and it's all done to the crankshaft.
Uh some seems to be mis-understanding the whole tensile strength, strain, and bolt pre-load thing. Same with "billet", and the rest.
Are the billet rods you are talking about molnar billet h beams?
Great content!!
25 years ago. Scat Xavier VW base company
What about Eagle H-bean rods, made in USA or China?
China
Trick question…! What’s the difference between a bolt and a screw? 🤣
Really serious on doing business
I put a budget 383 together for a friend 13.5-1 ,, scat h beam rods ,,I put a big hydraulic cam in it ,, low budget , the isky 304 mega cam ,, he wound it to 8000 in a circle track car for 2 seasons and this guy raced every week.
I begged him to pull it after he said the oil pressure bounced a little ,, that this thing had over performed by a mile already so let's check it ,, he blew it up in his drive way , a rod bolt broke ,, I don't blame the rod bolt for that ,, you still have to use common sense ,, if you see a problem ,, shut it off
Nice job Eric
I love scat, I believe it's an awesome company, I heard the story about the owner being a man of his word before, I have only bought a couple cranks, the cast steel is an awesome upgrade for a old iron crank, not as strong as a forged crank, but still a good crank for upward of 500hp, my SBC crank was considerably lighter than the stock 3.480" SBC crank, seem the stock was 55+/-lbs the scat crank was over 10lbs lighter, and China can make good parts, they will make the quality you pay for, they got the rep for poor quality because greedy ppl do not want to pay for quality work and QC to ensure proper work is completed . They are willing to do nearly anything, very poor quality if you don't care they don't care, they will not care if not paid to care, the language barrier and culture can be issues at times, but there is reputable mfg, who can do good work but just like anything quality cost, it would still be cheaper, b it seems scat has a good mfg facility over there, I never heard of any complaints, scat makes good stuff at a good price!
Good Job by the way as well!
Thanks
Are ohio cranks still made here
Sadly no
Ohio buys from the same factory as k1, lunati voo doo, rpm, eagle, liberty and these cranks are all better machined than scat. Consistency not even close.
THERE ARE MANY PEOPLE WITH HUNDREDS OF PASSES NITROUS MOTORS STILL RUNNING SCAT
I’ve built LOTS of engines, American V8’s, Japanese 4&6’s, and Air cooled VW and Porsche and have ALWAYS had great results with Scat! One other issue why so much stuff is forged and cast/machined in China is because of some of the absolutely ridiculous laws the EPA mandates foundry’s must follow! We had an internationally renowned maker of stainless steel and bronze hatches for the marine industry finally give up and move all manufacturing to China because the cost of having to follow all he environmental laws made it impossible to remain competitive. So now all those jobs are in China, along with the associated $$ being done in a factory “too dirty” for the EPA. Not the win anyone with a brain thinks it is.
What was the name/type of the rod bearing coating?
They are just clevite coated bearings. Clevite does themselves. Hnk starts the part number.
@@WeingartnerRacing thanks
Why didn't u just interview the man for a couple of videos the original source always tells it the best, just an idea once he's gone that's it.
😳 Thanks 🙏
Doing the crank balancing on the harmonic balancer and flywheel/flexplate is a horrendous idea. You are setting up your customer for disaster down the road. Changing from a stick to auto and now you have a customer screaming that the engine is vibrating his teeth out of his face because he has no clue that he needs to take that wheel to a shop with a crank balancer and replicate the old wheel. Horrendous idea noone should follow.
56👍's up EW thanks for sharing
Don's Boxed Rods
Well In my eyes Eagle and Scat are direct competitors so I would love for Eagle to have you come to their place. RPM company would be cool for you to visit too.
I have Eagle 5.78 H-Beams pn# CRS5780F3D in my 359 Cleveland. I put those because - well Eagle says they hold more power and rpm than the I-Beams . Eagle says 750hp and 7500 rpm for H Beam and at the time I bought the H Beams they said the I beams were only good to 550hp. I actually just looked and only Eagle offers H beams for a Cleveland 5.78" (thanks BRANDON) - Scat has no listing for a Cleveland rod to compare. Anyways, I wonder if its just a marketing thing to advertise power levels for different rod designs? Most of the time I see LS people using I beams and they work fine.
I also hear companies under rate their rods power so when someone says the put 750hp to a rod that is advertised to hold 850hp that they are lying because the rod till actually take 1000hp. 😉 Maybe ask the Scat guys if they under rate their stuff as advertised 🤔
P.S. I know you said you don't like messing with iron heads but I was wondering if you would be interested in fiddling with my Aussie 2v Cleveland heads? Maybe put them on your flow bench - see what they do and maybe see if you can improve them. Also I need the rocker stands milled and tapped for 7/16 rocker studs. You say you don't get alot of Cleveland stuff - I have some. I also have a set of "73 open chamber 4v heads. Of coarse I know you are busy with customer stuff and I'm in no big hurry - just wondering. Im only 4 hrs from you so I would deliver in person.
I have bought 2 RPM cranks in the last 5 years. They both checked out super good on ovality as well as taper
As a tragic playing with Clevos forget trying to get much more power from 302C heads. They work well, better than a 4V generally but even as heavy as they are are fairly fragile. Simply buy aftermarket as they are better than any 302 head. My research has me with CHI 3V. I beieve twisted wedge are excellent as well. As an Aussie I can talk to them and get semi custom heads.
I have given up on anchors and am going small and light!! 302W roller block with 3Vs and 5.4" rods. Will not make as much torque but far lighter and better oiled.
Awesome thread need toget in touch with you have few setups make some crazy power on diffrent phone it's been messed with there 9 accounts people stole and robbed in real life seriously people are pathetic too do what they did to me
Scat rods = 400$ eBay rods same stuff buy Manley!
I really enjoy your content! My father was the first guy to make a “CNC Billet” Hemi head in 81 for fuel and alky cars. My god father is Brad Anderson. Needles to say I spent my whole life around some of the best cylinder heads guys in motor sports. The smartest guys are always humble because the more you learn the more you realize you don’t know. It’s a moving target. Your always spot on from what I have been taught. All the smartest guys will always inform you their not always right and make sure to state facts from opinion. I commend you for that. Your channel is the best for the grass roots stuff. I have learned a lot by binge watching your channel. Hit me up if would would like to attend a NHRA National even. Ill take care of your vip tickets and you can hang in our Snap-on hospitality next to are pit🦾😎
I would love to take my son to the Topeka event. He needs to experience top fuel.
Bolt stretch was absolutely great info.