Good video and fairly complete list, but I would also suggest a burnisher for curling the edges of your scrapers. I use a worn-out kitchen steel for this, but have 'made do' with the shank of a screwdriver in the past.
Many thanks for the helpful video! I hope to have my own tools soon and this video was very informative. I wish you the best in your violin making! Bless you, sir!
I know this video is 3 years old, but I just came across it, so thanks for showing all those tools as it shows what one needs to pursue making of instruments (& there's more for repairing) but for those starting out & if time isn't an issue & money is, then there are several tools that can be made. I inherited some gouges but for others (particularly for carving the scroll) I ground old files into shape on a portable belt sander (Ryobi actually) & clamped that in the bench vice to use it. A lot of dipping into a pot of cold water was necessary while doing it too, but I ended up with some very useful & useable gouges in the process though. I bought scraping metal sheets from the hardware store & cut the various scrapers out with a pair of tin snips & also bought brass shim metal to make the backing strip for bending the ribs etc, on the bending iron which I made from a large soldering iron up the centre of (half of) a heat roller from a photocopier which is sand filled to transfer the heat & mounted on a wood base. I bought a sheet of 1.5mm (or 2mm) marine plywood to cut out all patterns used in the making for violin & cello etc. My glue pot is an old aluminium saucepan with the centre of the lid cut out for a cup to sit through on a stainless mesh to raise it off the bottom. This sits on a single element electric stove which is also useful for correcting the bend in bows too. For bridge patterns I kept various size bridges from new instruments (as each was replaced with an Aubert bridge) & cut them to correct curve & string spacing for each (patterns from Henry Strobel book on Measurements). I bought 40mm dowel & threaded rod to make closing clamps, so there are many tools & jigs etc that can be made to make & repair instruments. I made my own bow cradle for bow rehairing etc too. When I had to open a double bass to reglue a bass bar I didn't have suitable clamps for closing so I bought up a stack of cheap speed clamps & added cork at the fixed end & cut out plywood (8mm thick) to sit around the perimeter of the belly, one half at a time, but it was a successful repair. I've done a few neck refitting of basses but was glad someone else came along specialising in double basses because they take up a lot of room in the workshop.
By the way I strongly suggest herdim hss knives to anyone, they are 65hrc, and much much better than pfeil ones. They take longer to sharpen since thay are harder than most steels, but even working with ebony I can say they last 3 to 4 times longer. A must buy imo. Also get yourself a cerax 1/3k ceramic stone for sharpening if youre in a budget. İts a great p/p stone. But of course if someone is sharpening crazy like me can get a whone line of naniwa ss stones or shapton glass stones. Better the stone, better the joy.
Thank you so much for your excellent videos, they are so clear and make me think "I could do that!" One day I'll have a go and see what the reality is! In the meantime, can you tell us what is the maximum thickness your bandsaw can cut, please.
Hello, I study in a luthier school, and in my opinion, i think it would be really hard to learn every special detail without a master to teach you... Just my point of view!
It depends hou handy you are! I think that with books, and videos you can learn a lot, but with a (good) teacher it's totally different. You can ask and see the things live. It's not impossible, it's a harder. Don't hesitate to mail me if you have questions.
Very interesting! I would love to know, how can bad (furniture) varnish be completely removed from a violin, without any color residue, since I would like it to be varnished in a lighter color? I have a cheap factory made violin with spirit based varnish and it has a very closed, muffled and anemic sound. Is removing the varnish with heat or sandpaper an option, or could I destroy the violin if I try this? The wood pores are probably blocked by the bad varnish. I understand that varnish influences the sound a lot. I need this violin to be decent, and I would love to varnish it myself. Thank you!
By re-varnishing an instrument you won't make it from cheap to decent. The varnish influences the sound but is not the only part that does. Think about the thickness of the blades, base-bar, ef holes, quality of the wood. You could better try better strings and fittings (soundpost and bridge) or even better a better instrument altogether, than re-varnish. The current varnish is already in the wood and no solvent or remover will remove it. To much time, moneys and effort for a poor result.
Thank you for your answer! I do have a decent, playable and perfectly functional violin. I would like not to skip practice if I go on a holiday at the seaside for instance. The violin I asked you about is my second one which I want to use for travel (so I don't care so much about it being extraordinary, I only wish it could sound less "blocked" - it reminds me of an erhu, of course an erhu is an interesting instrument but this is a violin and it should sound like one). I understand that there are many elements which influence the sound. The strings on it are fine, the bridge, not really, it is just like it came out of the factory (very little curvature and I know this isn't ideal since my playable violin has a curved bridge).
it's very interesting, but if you buy all these tools, it will be very expensive... just an advice for beginers, without too much money: you can make many of them "DIY": mini plane, scrapers, peg shaper, clamps for assembly, depth calliper, templates, bending iron, glue pot... sorry for my english (I'm from France).Anyway, we need advices, and for that many thanks for you Kimon, and others luthier...
Thank you for your kind comment Sylvilain. You are right, a lot of tools can be made by hand. I'm indeed planning to make some videos on how to make tools on your own.
Hi Maestro, wonder if the violin peg shapers and reamers always have standard angle, or every brand has their own angle for their shapers/reamers? Is it always risky to buy shaper/reamers of different brands pls?
Mostly Violin is 1/30 (small violin 1/25) and cello 1/20. The peg-shapers have also the same angles but you have to adjust the blade on your own so you can change the angle a bit. But I would buy both at the same place to be sure that they are in the same margin.
Dictum, or -dick- with their old name is such a professional company, from their order services to catalog quality everything smells professionalism. One thing I hate about them is that they are selling most of their goods too expensive. I guess most luthiers of europe mostly using them including kremer and hammerl too. I have been buying from them since from 2003, never had a bad experience -except the sad prices-. By the way your accent is somehow addicting :)
First of all, I'm not a woodworker but a violinmaker, there is a difference. And second, the fact that you can make something doesn't mean that you have to make it as well, maybe you want to spare time (and money) and buy it. 😉
Thank you for showing us these. It's rare to find a violin luthier that shares his craft the way you do.
You are welcome and thank you for your kind words!
Thank you for showing us what tools you need , that was great.
Good video and fairly complete list, but I would also suggest a burnisher for curling the edges of your scrapers. I use a worn-out kitchen steel for this, but have 'made do' with the shank of a screwdriver in the past.
Thank you for your suggestion! I may make a list with the tools I forgot!
Thx for showing your tools!
Thank you master.
Thank you for sharing, great information!
Many thanks for the helpful video! I hope to have my own tools soon and this video was very informative. I wish you the best in your violin making! Bless you, sir!
Thank you Jimmy for your kind words. Good luck with your instrument!
Good job
Thank you!
Thank you so much for sharing your valuable knowledge violin making
You are welcome! Thank you for your kind comment!
wow , all that i needed thank you Maestro
You are welcome!
I know this video is 3 years old, but I just came across it, so thanks for showing all those tools as it shows what one needs to pursue making of instruments (& there's more for repairing) but for those starting out & if time isn't an issue & money is, then there are several tools that can be made. I inherited some gouges but for others (particularly for carving the scroll) I ground old files into shape on a portable belt sander (Ryobi actually) & clamped that in the bench vice to use it. A lot of dipping into a pot of cold water was necessary while doing it too, but I ended up with some very useful & useable gouges in the process though. I bought scraping metal sheets from the hardware store & cut the various scrapers out with a pair of tin snips & also bought brass shim metal to make the backing strip for bending the ribs etc, on the bending iron which I made from a large soldering iron up the centre of (half of) a heat roller from a photocopier which is sand filled to transfer the heat & mounted on a wood base. I bought a sheet of 1.5mm (or 2mm) marine plywood to cut out all patterns used in the making for violin & cello etc. My glue pot is an old aluminium saucepan with the centre of the lid cut out for a cup to sit through on a stainless mesh to raise it off the bottom. This sits on a single element electric stove which is also useful for correcting the bend in bows too. For bridge patterns I kept various size bridges from new instruments (as each was replaced with an Aubert bridge) & cut them to correct curve & string spacing for each (patterns from Henry Strobel book on Measurements). I bought 40mm dowel & threaded rod to make closing clamps, so there are many tools & jigs etc that can be made to make & repair instruments. I made my own bow cradle for bow rehairing etc too. When I had to open a double bass to reglue a bass bar I didn't have suitable clamps for closing so I bought up a stack of cheap speed clamps & added cork at the fixed end & cut out plywood (8mm thick) to sit around the perimeter of the belly, one half at a time, but it was a successful repair. I've done a few neck refitting of basses but was glad someone else came along specialising in double basses because they take up a lot of room in the workshop.
Dictum: a melhor 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
They are, aren't they?
By the way I strongly suggest herdim hss knives to anyone, they are 65hrc, and much much better than pfeil ones. They take longer to sharpen since thay are harder than most steels, but even working with ebony I can say they last 3 to 4 times longer. A must buy imo. Also get yourself a cerax 1/3k ceramic stone for sharpening if youre in a budget. İts a great p/p stone. But of course if someone is sharpening crazy like me can get a whone line of naniwa ss stones or shapton glass stones. Better the stone, better the joy.
This and all other videos are great. Thanks.
Thank you! subscribe so you won't miss the upcoming!
thanks for sharing your fantastic knowledge its so helpful
Thank you George!
Thank you so very much for this and all of your videos. I ordered their catalogues
Good to hear. Enjoy your new project!
Thank you so much for your excellent videos, they are so clear and make me think "I could do that!" One day I'll have a go and see what the reality is!
In the meantime, can you tell us what is the maximum thickness your bandsaw can cut, please.
Thanks!
Great vid. Could you do one about making a handle for the luthier knives!
Thank you. I'm thinking about it! Subscribe so you won't miss it!
Hi, سلام به شما استاد بزرگوار و محترم ، بسیار عالی و زیبا است کار شما
Hello. Thank you so much!
What about your glue, varnish, wood... where do you buy them?
You can buy these also at DICKTUM. Have a look in the website or catalogs. I will make separate videos about varnish and wood in the future.
Catalago de ferramenta qual o valor muito bom parabéns e madeira para luthier
Fascinated by your videos! Is it possible to learn to make a violin without going to a luthier school?
Hello, I study in a luthier school, and in my opinion, i think it would be really hard to learn every special detail without a master to teach you... Just my point of view!
It depends hou handy you are! I think that with books, and videos you can learn a lot, but with a (good) teacher it's totally different. You can ask and see the things live. It's not impossible, it's a harder. Don't hesitate to mail me if you have questions.
You use both rasps and files. Is there a reason to use one and not the other?
Rasps are rougher, good to remove a lot of wood, files are smother to remove the marks made but the rasp and smoothen up the surface.
Could you suggest an Eastern US supplier of hot glue and associated equipment?
Hello Yom. Sorry but I can't. But Dictum.com (from Germany) ships worldwide and has a good website.
Very interesting! I would love to know, how can bad (furniture) varnish be completely removed from a violin, without any color residue, since I would like it to be varnished in a lighter color? I have a cheap factory made violin with spirit based varnish and it has a very closed, muffled and anemic sound. Is removing the varnish with heat or sandpaper an option, or could I destroy the violin if I try this? The wood pores are probably blocked by the bad varnish. I understand that varnish influences the sound a lot. I need this violin to be decent, and I would love to varnish it myself. Thank you!
By re-varnishing an instrument you won't make it from cheap to decent. The varnish influences the sound but is not the only part that does. Think about the thickness of the blades, base-bar, ef holes, quality of the wood. You could better try better strings and fittings (soundpost and bridge) or even better a better instrument altogether, than re-varnish. The current varnish is already in the wood and no solvent or remover will remove it. To much time, moneys and effort for a poor result.
Thank you for your answer! I do have a decent, playable and perfectly functional violin. I would like not to skip practice if I go on a holiday at the seaside for instance. The violin I asked you about is my second one which I want to use for travel (so I don't care so much about it being extraordinary, I only wish it could sound less "blocked" - it reminds me of an erhu, of course an erhu is an interesting instrument but this is a violin and it should sound like one). I understand that there are many elements which influence the sound. The strings on it are fine, the bridge, not really, it is just like it came out of the factory (very little curvature and I know this isn't ideal since my playable violin has a curved bridge).
it's very interesting, but if you buy all these tools, it will be very expensive... just an advice for beginers, without too much money: you can make many of them "DIY": mini plane, scrapers, peg shaper, clamps for assembly, depth calliper, templates, bending iron, glue pot...
sorry for my english (I'm from France).Anyway, we need advices, and for that many thanks for you Kimon, and others luthier...
Thank you for your kind comment Sylvilain. You are right, a lot of tools can be made by hand. I'm indeed planning to make some videos on how to make tools on your own.
The plastic pipetts you use to glue?
Sorry, what is your question?
Saw ziet eruit als de letter "C" Hoe heet hij in het Engels?
1:24
It's called a "coping saw". You will need one that is at least 25cm deep.
Hi Maestro, wonder if the violin peg shapers and reamers always have standard angle, or every brand has their own angle for their shapers/reamers? Is it always risky to buy shaper/reamers of different brands pls?
Mostly Violin is 1/30 (small violin 1/25) and cello 1/20. The peg-shapers have also the same angles but you have to adjust the blade on your own so you can change the angle a bit. But I would buy both at the same place to be sure that they are in the same margin.
@@maestrokimon Many thanks for your advice!
Good afternoon
Please give me un catalog please
I can't give you the catalog as I need it for my orders! You can ask Dictum to send you one or use the site.
Pag reamer ??????
Sorry?
Dictum, or -dick- with their old name is such a professional company, from their order services to catalog quality everything smells professionalism. One thing I hate about them is that they are selling most of their goods too expensive. I guess most luthiers of europe mostly using them including kremer and hammerl too. I have been buying from them since from 2003, never had a bad experience -except the sad prices-. By the way your accent is somehow addicting :)
Ottimo, buon parere suk tema degli attrezzi necessari
Grazie Simone!
Please Please
if you need to buy a workbench, you are certainly not a woodworker...
First of all, I'm not a woodworker but a violinmaker, there is a difference. And second, the fact that you can make something doesn't mean that you have to make it as well, maybe you want to spare time (and money) and buy it. 😉
@@maestrokimon Thanks maestro, I was talking about woodworkers there ;) cheers
The one tool to mark the line on scroll you used?
I forgot about that (and some others). It's called a Marking Gauge and I use one I bought at dictum (item no.:703656)