Supercharged Two Stroke Grenades Head on Dyno!
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- Опубліковано 20 сер 2024
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If you want to add a clutch back in the system in the future, I’d highly suggest using a kart clutch from the Touch And Go (TAG) classes of kart as there called in the USA, the 100cc class spins similar RPM to what you’ve commented your PIP should, and make about 35hp, the 125cc spin a bit slower but make 44hp, the typical engagement RPM for these clutches is set around 8k RPM, and are quite tunable, rebuildable....a cheaper option is a KT100 class clutch but it’s not designed to hold as much power.
Pls see comment and following discussion by "the Workshop".
if you suddenly feel a urge to buy a vintage taildragger and wreck it to get youtube views, its not the booze thinking its just the company of a terrible sponsor.
As a tourist in Norway, you can not use your visa or master card that works in the rest of the world. Only credit cards from Norway is possible to use.
Love the longer video. This one was great. I've been following since you nickel plated your PiP engine. Keep it up 👌👌👌😁😁
Excellent as always 11:11 5000 hp is pretty good for a little 2 stroke hahaha
he said he would make the most powerfull 2 stroke ;D lmao
Negative 2500 when decelerating.
@@MF175mp Pretty heavy engine braking
Same thoughts. Hahahhahahaa
5000, I'd want one too. Can't wait to see the actual results, good on him.
Regarding your issues with the load cell. Put Ferrite tubes on your load cell , and indicator wiring. Motorcycle ignitions are notoriously "noisy" with electrical interference. Especially at high RPM. I build scale systems, and have run across it many times. It may be something else, but it's a very cheap and easy thing I would rule out first.
If it was good enough for my PlayStation controllers it must work
Great point! Spark plugs emit a lot of broadband noise, so clamp-on ferrite cores are a great idea. I would think having the signal wires be tightly twisted might also help.
Shielding the ignition coil and spark plug wire may also work. Just wrap it with some aluminium foil or fine wire mesh and ground it to the engine block...
Also wrap the spark plug wire with thin insulated wire and ground them
Fields like a Faraday good cage for a screen door so those magnets won't flux up your sensors.
If you're using shielded cables the bonding/grounding of the shield must be impotent.
Ground shields at the control panel and leave the device end floating.. as in insulated and isolated. Versa visa works too but once you try it you'll have the grounds to understand why source end bonding/grounding makes a few more cents.
Remember that when inputting the arm length and weight for the calibration, you should only count the horizontal distance between the weight and the pivot point.
Like, if the arm is at 10:30 and has 40 cm in total. The input value is for length is 20 cm. Or you can isolate the 2 vectors (vertical and horizontal) to adjust the value on the weight.
Yes in theory the rule of the lever arm applies here but with an angle which is less than 10° the cosinus is roughly the same
If you want the exact value, you can multiply the length of the arm by the cosinus of the angle between the arm and the horizontal d=l*cos ∆
Are you sure about that math?
If the arm is at 10:30 (which is 45 degrees from horizontal) and has a length of 40cm, then i _think_ you will find the 'horizontal' length is 28.28cm and NOT 20cm
Perhaps you meant 11:00 (a.k.a. 60 degrees from horizontal)
I believe the formula to calculate the 'effective' length is Arm.Length * Cosine(angle_from_horizontal)
You also need to consider the effective weight of the arm itself, not just the weight hanging at the end of the arm...
I would add that should you move or disassemble anything connected to the cell, do not assume that reassembling exactly as before will return it to anywhere close to calibrated. It will need to be done again. Also, that type of cell needs to be strictly kept within it's intended range to work well. They do not play well with very fast changes either.
Maybe adding a shock absorber in parallel with the load cell might not be a bad idea.
Dude! you just made 10hp+ on a 50cc engine you made yourself!! thats so cool man!
Yeah he should be getting 20
Great to see you full-time and solving and testing so quickly
This has to be one of your best videos yet. Like you said yourself, the extra time doing this full time pays off. before some part failed and you had to spend a week to fix it, leaving every episode on a low note. Now you got it all. The rise, the fall, the redemption. You try something, something breaks. you fix it and you get the result you're after. This is story telling!
I loved that with you full time on it, you're tackling it further every episode.
Hi, in my experience doing dyno runs on kart engines the most consistent results I had, was doing rpm sweep from high rpm to low rpm by increasing break force, maybe you can look into doing this way. Good luck doing what you do!
*brake force
Calculating the inertia will be tricky as there are different thicknesses at different points of the diameter of the retarder, plus the clutch and sprocket rotating masses. Better to accurately calibrate the load cell and take braked mode runs and then inertia only runs and tweak the inertia value until the graphs stack on top of each other.
You will probably need a lot of load cell filtering to stop mechanical noise and chatter from your rose joints.
I'm trying to remember if one setup to measure inertia in the earlier days was to put propellers for example laid flat on a platform supported by three strings and you could calculate from the rotational frequency somewhat accurate value for the inertia.
Instead of noise filtering for the load cell, it also may work better with some rubber bushings instead of the ball joints at the load cell mount.
Of course the rubber needs to be pretty hard, just soft enough to dampen the vibrations of the engine...
@@Henning_S. agreed
You are the best. God broke the mold when he made you. I,m a 76 year old motor head myself. I was a auto machinist & engine builder & have raced everything from
injected fuel dragster to racing Karts. I enjoy your videos so much. There well done & keep me laughing. But I truly admire your quest for the best. Never stop my freind.
I did the same thing cutting aluminum with my wood saw. It works so good except for that last time that scared the ghost out of you. Then you don’t want to touch it again. I’m glad your all one piece.
Yep. Thanks
Awesome as always 👍 But I think there might be a problem with the load cell setup. You want to measure crankshaft torque but the load cell is measuring torque now at the cradle pivot point. I think since the crankshaft has some distance to the pivot point, there is an lever arm which amplifies the torque and the load cell sees higher numbers. Might be possible to fix this by attaching the calibration arm and weight to the crankshaft, then letting it rotate with the drive chain attached and that should produce the correct force at the sensor for a known calibration weight.
So glad you decided to do this full time. Can’t get enough of this 👍😀
It's morning here so good morning, I'm an old tinkerer and I've watched this project from the start and I love it. The way you approach problems and think around them always heading towards your goal. I'm anticipating a very satisfying outcome when you have your engine installed with you on the bike back at Bonneville. Saying that though the journey there is where it's at.
I never thought I'd be watching a young man on the other side of the world from Australia on a phone so thank you for sharing this with us. I wait every week for your videos. Also good on you mate for going at this full time, ok later buddy bye.
11:11 finally the world's most powerful 2 stroke is for real
I’m STOKED for you being “Full-Time-Strokin’”!
You might not be in a classroom any longer, but you have still teaching!
Thank you as always!
-CY Castor
What makess the channel is all about the creativity and the struggle. But a simple inertia dyno would suit you well here.
Great to see the coolant up to temperature. Would it be possible to show a analogue rev counter and coolant temperature gauge as the digital read out changes a bit to fast to follow. Well done Alex, a massive step in the right direction!
I agree here - had trouble enjoying it because I kept trying to watch 3 VERY fast moving numbers ;)
@@IanB22 They will stop moving around when he has the retarder applying a constant load.
@@MrJermbob Yes I agree, Though it's a lot easier to look at a dial rev counter with it's damping effect giving a easier view of rpm. Exact readings of RPM are not needed to a couple of hundred revs.
2800Hp 50cc confirmed
I don't remember how or why I started watching your videos. But I try to watch every one of them now. I defiantly dig what you have going on.
Go back to the start with episode 1 the SPX era, lots of viewing for you to enjoy.
@@malcrandall1309 Will do.
"I can take a hint..." I laughed for hours! And we can all relate to an event like that. Congratulations on the awesome awesome awesome changes you made to filming and presenting your video's. I salute you! And keep it up, love the content. Gerhard, South-Africa
wow you did it, 5000 horsepower on your first test, i always knew you could do it
for the love of all things holy. The cinematography is like a norweigen movie, about Swedes, who are making a Norwegian movie - on a Donky Kong game - painted monochromatically. Excellent content. Spare time such a bonus! Thanks Alex. Honestly - spectacular
The progress is awesome, from design to running! Considering a 300cc 4-stroke honda motorcycle engine makes a paltry 30hp, this is pretty amazing.
Yes, but you need to compare like with like. This engine is not designed to run reliably for 100,000 km with good control in traffic. Besides, 100 bhp per litre is very good going, certainly not “paltry”, and would have been a racing engine output 50 years ago. Les in UK
@@leslieaustin151 his engine is 240hp/L
12hpx20(conversion factor of .05L to 1L)
@@Eluderatnight I’m well aware of that, but you must compare like with like. This engine is not on a par with other, tinier engines used for model planes etc., and as I said, it isn’t intended to run reliably for 100,000 km as say a Honda 300cc would be, this one is only intended for a couple of runs up and down the salt, maximum 50 miles, with maintenance every 10 or 11 miles. Smaller engines are easier to get high bhp/litre figures from. Comparing a 50cc supercharged 2-stroke running on methanol and nitro-methane with a 300cc 4-stroke running on petrol is a daft comparison which makes no engineering sense whatever.
So happy for you! I’ve been watching you for 5 years now and seeing the next steps you’ve taken and the research and development you are documenting is truly amazing always a good time watching you! Cheers from the USA!
The pace is incredible right now that you are doing this full time. I hope you get enough support and funding to keep this going!
Wide screen, colors, music, content, Drink. Love your edit, format. Awesome stuff. Automotive in a different jacket. Love this channel for a while now.
This new lens you are filming with is just awesome. I have never seen such beautigul images before...
Just wanted to chime in: you can cut aluminum angle on that saw, either clamp the angle to the fence so it won't move on contact OR place the angle with the inside down so it's sitting on both legs and start the cut on the corner. Harder to clamp that way but it can be done.
Fella is smart he will figure it out whether it's on his own or from everyone's input
Going out to the shop to "do something real quick" is how I have destoyed 80% of my good shirts...
Love the fix for the head. It's awesome that you made the time to put it in the video. Can't wait to see more.
So basically 12-15 HP without boost. Not bad for an elf tea cup sized smoker.
I love how well the engine works. You sir made something awesome and unique
Your tenacity is inspiring, "never give up, never surrender"
I've said it before and I'll say it again, I love the anamorphic aspect ratio. Thank you for making you videos not just another video but an experience.
Add a spring to preload the cell that will eliminate any slack and smoth the reading
Have you acounted the angle that load cell is in? You might wanna have the load cell further from the pivot point, and preload the whole thing with a spring.
Do I see a The Workshop video in the future here of what he did wrong?😁
@Espen Schjelderup no. I'm just asking Alex a question and have some ideas, do you know the answer to these?
The angle of the load cell makes no difference, as long as it's tangential to the axis. Or even if it wasn't, it could be compensated for in calculations. As for the distance, I think more leverage would probably yield more accurate measurements.
However, I'm worried Alex may have stepped into the cosine trap with measuring the calibration weight distance from the axis of rotation... we shall see...
@@dirtygarageguy no. My education is just as a mechanic, this is more your area of knowledge.
Just thinking that your good at making videos for explaning 😁
@White Elemant the angle makes no difference. As long as its tangential to the axis. Wow, and wrong. The load cell needs to be perpendicular from a radial line from the axis. It does matter. You even say so.
Yes you can calculate the sin of the angle from the perpendicular, my question was has he...
Yes, man, that's awesome. Getting numbers, even if I'm sure the numbers are wrong. As Matt and others have said, make sure you're measuring your moment arm only in the horizontal plane for calibration. It would be worthwhile using a motor that puts out a "known" power to check the dyno calibration is in range, maybe an electric motor as they have the numbers you're looking for on the motor plate and would be relatively easy to rig up.
That's one very interesting concept engine you have there. Once start getting numbers you can trust from it, it would be very interesting to meter fuel consumption (which is gonna be horrific, as you're blowing through) in order to look at how it does vs a conventional engine (and just for laffs)
You, my friend, are my new favorite thing on youtube! I've been watching you for several months now. Greetings from Bulgaria! I am a biker and I love 2 strokes.
Yes sponsors glad your able to get some hope this helps getting more projects on the bench
Hi , with regards to your CNC setup... If you ever consider a stand-alone control for your mill, My father and I converted a small milling machine called a Grizzly to CNC using a control called the DDCS V3.1 and Closed loop steppers. It works amazingly well and is very cheap. Has a screen and Pulse generator hand wheel. As a machinist myself and Cad-cam programmer the system realy impressed me... can compete with CNC machines that cost 3 times as much. Keep up the awesome content, and I can't wait to see the BRUTE force engine in a bike !!
I'm not into machining but can understand your thoughts. As a tight Yorkshire man, cheaper is always better. My old boss used to say money is better in my pocket than yours. Are all bosses the same!
Changing (lowering) the refresh rates for the various date fields will make reading them easier 👍
NUMBERSSSSSSS
I'm very glad the head was only a minor setback, taking dyno pulls slowly ish is already proving a good tactic. 12hp out of 50cc is well above most, and I'm really excited to see what it does under much higher boost
What you might consider is getting an old AC compressor off a car - that has a magnetic clutch, which means you (in theory) could start the engine and warm it up with no load, then use a variable power supply to slowly engage the mag clutch of the AC compressor assembly to engage the engine with the eddy brake. That eddy brake is WAY too big - way too much inertia for that engine... A 1-way bearing is a good idea if you're not going to use a centrifugal clutch so if you're doing a power run, once you get off the throttle the brake won't just keep the engine going at 20krpm from its intertia.
Yes, with the clutch locked up closed throttle over runs are going to be a problem. A one way bearing certainly cures the engine over run problem.
those orange screens are killer in the nightwatching :D - it's like AAAAH MY ... oh it's ok now
Wow!!! Beautiful... my Simson s51 50cc was getting 8hp after a rebuild and went like a rocket, even felt scary at times
When I cut angle on a chop-saw, I usually put the pointy end up, like a pyramid, and go slow initially.
you can do it. somebody send him titanium stock and ceramic stock. this engine will have to be bullet proof strong. small parts under unheard of stress. the best materials on final assembly.
Did exact same thing with aluminium angle on a drop saw, flattened my finger, took a while to heal, always use clamps now haha
The cameo of the Mario mug was a nice visual. I think you have a future in editing or directing with others if you so choose. Great job as always!
wow man... that looked wild when the saw grabbed and almost made way with your hand... glad you are okay... that stuff can happen so fast makes a guy think... cool you showed it... LOVE the videos and the knowledge you share is top notch... i share what i know on my channel and its rewarding but im definitely not on your level my friend.
Holy shit. That engine is wicked. When it gets some real boost in it we’ll probably see 20 hp no problem. That would be over 6.5 hp per cubic inch!
Hey man, From what I see you are fighting too many variables: Experimental engine and experimental dyno; Too many things can go wrong. Why not start with an 'off the shelf' engine and the fix the dyno engine first before testing it on one of your self made engines? Cheers !
Good plan.
We have a saying here “K.I.S.S”
Keep it simple stupid.
We ain’t geniuses stop trying to overcomplicate things,the simple solutions are usually the best.
Yes true. He has also picked land speed racing the hardest sport on engines, he needs less variables. Wish him well
Bold men do bold things.
Dude, I cant explain how happy I felt for you and what a win for the channel when you said: Now we are reaping the fruits of going full time, normally this would have been it for this week. Opened a fancy belgian beer with a champagne-style cork for that! Heja heja från Svea!
Your getting there pal and remember pain is only temporary, but glory is forever 👍✌️🇬🇧
Finally got rid of that slipping clutch, it's been bothering me for several videos now.
gotta say man those initial readings of 2000+ horse power did have me scratching my head a bit
I love how you don't give up
the video/light quality is getting better and better :)
Always put wax on your blade when cutting aluminum. Especially if you don't have a metal cutting back pitched tooth blade. Also make sure the piece is well anchored against the fence and deck.
Starting to sound real good.
When you've been following along with story so long you're shouting "COME ON!!" at the screen during the dyno pulls lol
Me too!
Another brilliant video! Loving the new camera setup and a big congrats on going full time YT. Best engine channel on YT by far. Keep up the good work👍
Bees are a swarming again, love that noise :)
When I was young I would have said the same. Now older and deaf as a post I would have to say turn the volume down.....A lot.
Yes sir....thanks for the full time switch...great work!!!
Awesome production quality and engineering skills
Hi Hi ,absolutely love your videos, been a two Stoke fan in sussex England for years nearly 36 years now ,love them and hate them ,nearly been killed by one twice lol your a legend mate .
Ignitions in general but esp motorcycle style ignitions are incredibly noisy. They emit a lot of interference. Some ferrite would probably help. Also shield the spark plug wires with some aluminum foil and ground it to the block or very thin dia wire tightly wrapped around it and grounded to the block. Also tightly wrap your signal wires together.
Whenever you finish the chain setup please put some covers around them so if they explode you don't get hurt
That’s the thing when you’re dealing with boost.
It will exploit every weakness until it breaks. XD
So much job done in one video, great job
Best video yet! Great content (obviously), fab music, good room set, new glasses look good and you managed two costume changes. Top job! Very entertaining and informative. Keep at it as it’s much appreciated 👍
this is my first comment on youtube ever! but i just want you to know, that i'm really enjoying your content, and i think you are getting quite good at producing videos!
best regards, from a fellow scandinavian 👍🏻
Amazing you haven't said a word in 2 years 😮
@@Eduardo_Espinoza Must be a sad existence to base life on false reality. Too bad you can't not comment.
These videos are awesome. And 16hp from a 50cc engine? Wow. Keep up the good work my man!
Dr.Pulley and another company I can't remember have a ratcheting style CVT clutch that locks itself to the bell in a way it can't slip
det är 2 problen bu jobbar med. nr 1 du försöker göra den kraftigaste 2-t och den andra en bromsbänk som visar dina resultat. det är en för mycket, du ska hålla på det du gör bäst! och det är 2-t låt någon annan fixa bromsbänken åt dig. håller på dig att du lyckas i de båda frågorna😊
This is such a complicated project, props for keeping up the improvements. getting there step by step
Hanging the 5kg weight off the load cell mount isn't quite accurate because the pivot point isn't on a horizontal line from the mount. You'd need to apply the sine of the angle from the pivot to the mount to calculate the force applied by the weight at your 30mm torque arm.
Chain guard or panel between you and chain going to inertia brake(dyno brake). A guard protecting engine from flying chain also.
I really appreciate seeing your challenges and your solutions. Glad you are able to follow your passion full time now. You are the best kind of crazy :D
I need a dyno for my RC cars, it'll be a fun little project. 😄👍
Faaarrrkk man, I can't believe you used that meat axe without clamping the piece you were cutting, your very lucky, but I can't talk, I was using one one day and tried the same thing, it grabbed and bit in, blowing the machine blade bearing boss housing apart, shrapnel went flying everywhere, the blade went flying, I'm standing there shitting myself, all I hurt was my thumb, from the shock of blade grabbing peice my thumb was on, the drop saw was destroyed, I was sacked on the spot, my shortest job every, I was there for just 3 days lol, my advice is I wouldn't be drinking and using such machines, bad combination, at least your ok but I'd check that drop right over before I'd use it again. Great progress with motor 👏👏👏on the chain to dyno, I'd be adding a spring loaded sproket chain tensioner, so the chain doesn't decide to go flying, looking at how much free play there is. 👍 😊
best 2 strokes engine ever (sound like 50cc 4strokes)
one of the best channels in existence.
Great perseverence. I think you need some sort of freewheeling unit on there to keep the load cell from spinning the engine on decel...might clean up the data, too.
This strait up gives me goose bumps! I love it
1:40 i definetly expected a loud ah fahn! But Luckyly ur ok. Keep up the great work!
Yes, Now We're Getting Somewhere ‼️
#StepByStep 🏁
Those load cell joints are fine on load. The hp reading jumping around is pretty normal when you have the right torque arm length it wont skip around so radically. I run a yourdyno and just calibrated it about a week ago.
Great progress. I'm glad you look happy at the end of the video. Can't wait for more.
This was absolutely beautiful. 2 Strokes forever!
Inner head seal i like to use a copper flat ring 5-6mm
Close to the piston.
Self tensions too.
Kinda.
This was a very good episode. Absolutely loving this channel!
your the man at this moment in my book
just to let you know i keep the volume all the way up, brap master making things flex keep it up buddy
good job ! now some numbers to start working on, to be confirmed ... improved if can be... keep the big picture in mind !
Awesome progress, very hopeful for the potential of the engine
Much as I like your posts lately it's like watching a smoke filled room .
Its because of the lens but i like it a lot
Yeah, could add in some more contrast👍
@@2STROKESTUFFING will that engine have a pipe? Just curious😅
@@wo8795 I thought my cataracts had got worse with the haze. Give me HD any day!
@@wo8795 No, this engine won't gain anything by putting a pipe on of any kind. No back pressure is required on this type of concept engine. The PiP project engine on the other hand is highly dependent on it's exhaust system.
I am not sure you will get acurate readings of the torque if the axis of the sensor is not inline with the output shaft of the engine. The force from the chain will probably mess with the readings i think.