/ bigelowbrook Let's take a look at the modified wood stove. Plus a quick update on how the rocket mass heater performed. www.BigelowBroo... / bigelowbrook plus.google.com...
Just found your playlist. I have a Jotul 602 wood stove. Very small. It has new-fangled secondary air tubes like you have put into your wood stove. And I also wanted to figure a way to burn wood chips, pellets, and various free cellulosic materials like corn cobs, sticks, and nut shells. Well, my solution was found in a video by Edible Acres: Make biohar in the wood stove, using hotel pans and lose fitting lids of the appropriate size for you stove. Fill the pans with dry material, and set it inside a hot firebox. This pyrolysizes the wood, producing wood gas, which is ignited up by your secondary air tubes. And you get charcoal production in your hotel pan. I use the charcoal in my compost bins and then add it to my garden beds. The point being, is now I can easily burn wood chips, wood pellets, wood shop off cuts, sawdust, chainsaw shavings, corn cobs, nut shells, avocado pits, etc. Have a good fire going, and a hot firebox before adding your pan full of material. You do use some firewood in the process, but so much less to keep the process going. Good luck!
Greetings from Denmark. After the fire has become nice and hot, consider shutting off the primary air intake. It will make your fuel last longer. I bought a thermometer to make sure the temperature was high enough, when shutting off the primary intake. As you mention, to prevent creosote from building up. :) Keep up the good videos.
I came back to comment on this because as I was emptying the ashes from our wood stove that was designed to use the same system to burn the smoke I thought of the plates above the smoke burning draft tubes that you had burn out. Our stove uses a thin lightweight fire brick. This holds up under the flames very well. Though the tubes are cooled by the incoming air the fire brick above heats up and seems to ignite the smoke/air mixture.
There are different kinds of bio bricks, at least here in Belgium that is. Always go for those that are made of 100% oak chips or 80% oak and 20% ash wood, oak always being the main wood being used (read the labels). Plenty of bio bricks sold in stores are just complete rubbish produced in masses and therefor can be sold cheap. Might be wise to go for those who are a little bit more expensive but do produce more flames and heat, and for a longer period of time. ;) Cheers. Ps: love to see how you handle those modification and how you test things out. Tho I myself would never even attempt at doing so, mostly because I don't have the equipment for doing so, I still love to learn new things. You never know when it might come in handy.
about the rocket heater; there is some good idea on the net about experimental horizontal feed tube where very long log or stick can be burned- may be a good way to avoid stucked log and have a longer burn- Tks for sharing your work !
You have to use fire brick or high tem refractory for a baffle because steel (even stainless) will warp and fall apart over time. The temps are just too hot for it. I glued fire bricks together using stove cement for my baffle and I can burn it over 900 degrees and not worry about warping the stove components. You may have to replace the secondary tubes every couple years or so, but it's easy enough if you make them removable. Black gas pipe will hold up for a couple years in my stove.
Coal burns from bottom, wood from the top. I like rocket stoves myself. Built right they don't need much of a chimney and safer at that end. Woodchip tech is something that needs to be refined in all stoves.
I have found out that wood stoves that are made of 1/4" plus steel will not give you the problems you are having with bowing and rusting since their is a lot more material to rust away. You can make a stove from stainless steel but you need to have roughly 40 to 50 percent more surface area because stainless does not conduct heat as plain sheet steel. Most wood stoves today are really cheap MADE IN CHINA that are just JUNK. Firebrick are a must to keep the stove from turning red in color and a safety reason also. The welds hold up well because they are really alloy steel from the welding wire. The fire brick that most economy stoves have are really cheap. They are just JUNK CHINA MADE. Buy true refractory bricks and you will not need to replace them for sure, trust me on that plus the heat temperature is so much higher. Wood stove fire does not even come close to taxing them. Seasoned hardwood is really a great heat source and cheap for sure. Look forward to see the next video update from you Sir. Good day too. VF
I like the ad that is done by you - that's the way to advertise on YT. I'm tired of the intrusiveness of the usual ads, though "tired" isn't going far enough. Interesting about the seasoned hardwoods creating more heat - This is a report from the front lines of wear-and-tear!
Have you considered turning the woodchips (and possibly bio-bricks) into charcoal? That might radiate a bit better - perhaps mixed with other fuel sources?
nice m8 . thanx for sharhing this with us :) .i would like to give y some info also. the briguetes ur using (i am not so sure if i call them correctly cause english arent my mother tongue) produce MORE heat . aproximatly 20% from A GOOD 2-SEASONED hard wood. their main problem (or difference better) is that they need more primary air cause they produce MUCH more thiner ash and no coal AT ALL . so u cant create ur PRECIUS bed of coals to start the gasification progress and GET UR fumes to fuel the afterburn :) .have fun and keep going m8 :)
Since you have a pattern, you should use heavier metal and build a stove. I used to build them using 3/8" metal. Never had to replace a stove that I built when I was in my early 20's now I am 64.
Thanks for the update! that stove is burning HOT with the seasoned hard wood! :) I am not a camera expert but I do believe that you can break the sensor in a digital camera by taking pictures of welding flash... might be the same for your video camera but again I am not sure.
you use it a lot, have you think about buying another one to make them alternated work? Doing so you can make some maintenance and have half work hour on them and also if one get break you have one that still on and you can repair without freezing the green house.
Your welds would look quite a bit neater if you were to wire wheel most of the rust off the seems first. IF you are using FLUX CORE WIRE:Be sure your polarity is - POSITIVE GROUND. This is the opposite of solid wire.
I'd call that success. I used galvanized pipe for my first burn tubes. They rusted pretty bad probably from moisture. My stainless steel bb que burner does much better. Outstanding job.
Great tutorial on secondary combustion burner! I burn seasoned hardwood and am having trouble with efficiency and excessive smoke out of chimney. Will adding a secondary burner help with a cleaner burn maybe less smoke? My neighbors might appreciate also. Thanks
+Bill It should help. If you have a more modern stove, it probably already has a secondary burner in it. Also this stove is in the greenhouse so I burn it fairly fast. In most buildings, they usually smolder so they don't overheat the space.
Ok, Technical Question this time. I was under the impression that cool/cold air burns better. This came to mind when seeing you adding the air warmers for the secondary burn part of the stove. Also, wouldn't it be a good idea to pipe your burn air in from outside, especially during the winter months, so the stove doesn't pull cold air into the greenhouse to feed the stove?
+Lettuce Grow it Farm Usually cool air contains less moisture so it makes it easier to burn hotter, but if you take the cool air then heat it before combustion, it takes less energy to get it to burn. Ironically, I don't want to bring in the outside air because I'm trying to keep the greenhouse drier during the winter so I burn the humid air and let cooler dry air until the building. No matter which way I do it, it's going to be "wrong" ;-)
I have a 13NCH Englander wood stove. I doesn't put out the heat it was advertised at. The tubes at the don't seem to function after a few weeks usage. If I were to take out the. blocks, would the steel be strong enough to handle it? The company keeps telling me it's the wood but I can have a nice fire inside and it doesn't get that hot. Any ideas?
Why don't you just put a auger in the rocket stove to feed the end of the fire? I understand the jam you had but that would take care of it wouldn't it? Love your vids and sent some and your product video to some of my friend in the business in Israel, Holland then Switzerland
It hard to tell since every year seems to be totally different temperatures. There is far less smoke and the chimney hasn't needed cleaning since I did it.
What is an ecobrick? Is it anything like the paper bricks I make out of scrap paper? That stove is looking a bit rough. I am not sure it is going to last very much longer, but I am sure you can get another season out of it.
+Bigelow Brook Farm (Web4Deb) I see. I have used saw dust to start fires, but never as a log. As for logs made out of water logged compressed paper that are then dried, you will have similar results to what you mentioned. They burn okay, but not as much energy as real hardwoods. They work fine to throw one in every once in a while but they just do not give off the heat you need to fully run your system, or my stove to heat the house.
+Matthew Lair As the steel expands and contracts, the ceramic will crack and fall off. I had some ceramic coated grates in the rocket mass heater and they didn't last any longer than standard steel grates.
+Bigelow Brook Farm (Web4Deb) thanks for the inspiration :) are there materials that can be used for the stove that would not get damaged / wouldn't need maintenance, permanently?
+interestingyoutubechannel Stainless steel will last a little longer, but not much. Fire brick is usually the best. I guess you could try titanium too! ;-)
Your so alternative and diverse, why aren't you using earth? Making rocket stoves and earth thermal mass instead of all this metal? Seems to me in more extreme climates earth would be better.
+James Hansen I like the metal so I can make changes and monitor the air flow. Using earth is fine for a final design, but it's hard to make adjustments once you involve something more permanent like the cob stoves.
Just found your playlist. I have a Jotul 602 wood stove. Very small. It has new-fangled secondary air tubes like you have put into your wood stove. And I also wanted to figure a way to burn wood chips, pellets, and various free cellulosic materials like corn cobs, sticks, and nut shells.
Well, my solution was found in a video by Edible Acres: Make biohar in the wood stove, using hotel pans and lose fitting lids of the appropriate size for you stove. Fill the pans with dry material, and set it inside a hot firebox. This pyrolysizes the wood, producing wood gas, which is ignited up by your secondary air tubes. And you get charcoal production in your hotel pan. I use the charcoal in my compost bins and then add it to my garden beds.
The point being, is now I can easily burn wood chips, wood pellets, wood shop off cuts, sawdust, chainsaw shavings, corn cobs, nut shells, avocado pits, etc. Have a good fire going, and a hot firebox before adding your pan full of material. You do use some firewood in the process, but so much less to keep the process going. Good luck!
WHEN you burned 7 cords of wood and have so little residue you are doing well fella. As they say JOB WELL DONE !!!!!!!!!!!!
Greetings from Denmark. After the fire has become nice and hot, consider shutting off the primary air intake. It will make your fuel last longer. I bought a thermometer to make sure the temperature was high enough, when shutting off the primary intake. As you mention, to prevent creosote from building up. :) Keep up the good videos.
+ravndotdk Hi, The primary air intake has a damper on it that automatically closes when it gets hot. One of my older videos shows it. Thanks!
+Bigelow Brook Farm (Web4Deb) Ahh sorry. Haven't had time to watch the other ones yet. My bad ;)
I came back to comment on this because as I was emptying the ashes from our wood stove that was designed to use the same system to burn the smoke I thought of the plates above the smoke burning draft tubes that you had burn out. Our stove uses a thin lightweight fire brick. This holds up under the flames very well. Though the tubes are cooled by the incoming air the fire brick above heats up and seems to ignite the smoke/air mixture.
There are different kinds of bio bricks, at least here in Belgium that is. Always go for those that are made of 100% oak chips or 80% oak and 20% ash wood, oak always being the main wood being used (read the labels). Plenty of bio bricks sold in stores are just complete rubbish produced in masses and therefor can be sold cheap. Might be wise to go for those who are a little bit more expensive but do produce more flames and heat, and for a longer period of time. ;)
Cheers.
Ps: love to see how you handle those modification and how you test things out. Tho I myself would never even attempt at doing so, mostly because I don't have the equipment for doing so, I still love to learn new things. You never know when it might come in handy.
about the rocket heater; there is some good idea on the net about experimental horizontal feed tube where very long log or stick can be burned- may be a good way to avoid stucked log and have a longer burn- Tks for sharing your work !
You have to use fire brick or high tem refractory for a baffle because steel (even stainless) will warp and fall apart over time. The temps are just too hot for it. I glued fire bricks together using stove cement for my baffle and I can burn it over 900 degrees and not worry about warping the stove components. You may have to replace the secondary tubes every couple years or so, but it's easy enough if you make them removable. Black gas pipe will hold up for a couple years in my stove.
Coal burns from bottom, wood from the top. I like rocket stoves myself. Built right they don't need much of a chimney and safer at that end. Woodchip tech is something that needs to be refined in all stoves.
Very good! I'm from Brazil /SP.
I have found out that wood stoves that are made of 1/4" plus steel will not give you the problems you are having with bowing and rusting since their is a lot more material to rust away. You can make a stove from stainless steel but you need to have roughly 40 to 50 percent more surface area because stainless does not conduct heat as plain sheet steel. Most wood stoves today are really cheap MADE IN CHINA that are just JUNK. Firebrick are a must to keep the stove from turning red in color and a safety reason also. The welds hold up well because they are really alloy steel from the welding wire. The fire brick that most economy stoves have are really cheap. They are just JUNK CHINA MADE. Buy true refractory bricks and you will not need to replace them for sure, trust me on that plus the heat temperature is so much higher. Wood stove fire does not even come close to taxing them. Seasoned hardwood is really a great heat source and cheap for sure. Look forward to see the next video update from you Sir. Good day too. VF
You’re hardcore. Id’a just scrapped it and replaced it haha. Lots of hard work is always worth it in the end tho.... and I salute you for it.
I like the ad that is done by you - that's the way to advertise on YT. I'm tired of the intrusiveness of the usual ads, though "tired" isn't going far enough. Interesting about the seasoned hardwoods creating more heat - This is a report from the front lines of wear-and-tear!
Thanks bro... It is easy to understand how to make. Good Job👍👍👍🏆
Have you considered turning the woodchips (and possibly bio-bricks) into charcoal? That might radiate a bit better - perhaps mixed with other fuel sources?
nice m8 . thanx for sharhing this with us :) .i would like to give y some info also. the briguetes ur using (i am not so sure if i call them correctly cause english arent my mother tongue) produce MORE heat . aproximatly 20% from A GOOD 2-SEASONED hard wood. their main problem (or difference better) is that they need more primary air cause they produce MUCH more thiner ash and no coal AT ALL . so u cant create ur PRECIUS bed of coals to start the gasification progress and GET UR fumes to fuel the afterburn :) .have fun and keep going m8 :)
you are amazing :) bst wishes :)
You should have invited Mike Rowe from dirty jobs for this episode... Thanks for sharing!
Since you have a pattern, you should use heavier metal and build a stove. I used to build them using 3/8" metal. Never had to replace a stove that I built when I was in my early 20's now I am 64.
Thanks for the update! that stove is burning HOT with the seasoned hard wood! :) I am not a camera expert but I do believe that you can break the sensor in a digital camera by taking pictures of welding flash... might be the same for your video camera but again I am not sure.
+Joel C I usually drop my cameras in the water before I burn them out. ;-)
lol good good :)
you use it a lot, have you think about buying another one to make them alternated work? Doing so you can make some maintenance and have half work hour on them and also if one get break you have one that still on and you can repair without freezing the green house.
Your welds would look quite a bit neater if you were to wire wheel most of the rust off the seems first.
IF you are using FLUX CORE WIRE:Be sure your polarity is - POSITIVE GROUND.
This is the opposite of solid wire.
I love your videos man. Did you gain some weight? I dont remember you being such a winter powerhouse =)
That shaker looks like it’s for coal, cool
Why not snag some high temp paint to prevent the rust issues?
+Mike Downs It was already painted once with it by the previous owner. I think most of the rust is from before I owned this.
I'd call that success. I used galvanized pipe for my first burn tubes. They rusted pretty bad probably from moisture. My stainless steel bb que burner does much better. Outstanding job.
Great tutorial on secondary combustion burner! I burn seasoned hardwood and am having trouble with efficiency and excessive smoke out of chimney. Will adding a secondary burner help with a cleaner burn maybe less smoke? My neighbors might appreciate also. Thanks
+Bill It should help. If you have a more modern stove, it probably already has a secondary burner in it. Also this stove is in the greenhouse so I burn it fairly fast. In most buildings, they usually smolder so they don't overheat the space.
Ok, Technical Question this time. I was under the impression that cool/cold air burns better. This came to mind when seeing you adding the air warmers for the secondary burn part of the stove. Also, wouldn't it be a good idea to pipe your burn air in from outside, especially during the winter months, so the stove doesn't pull cold air into the greenhouse to feed the stove?
+Lettuce Grow it Farm Usually cool air contains less moisture so it makes it easier to burn hotter, but if you take the cool air then heat it before combustion, it takes less energy to get it to burn. Ironically, I don't want to bring in the outside air because I'm trying to keep the greenhouse drier during the winter so I burn the humid air and let cooler dry air until the building. No matter which way I do it, it's going to be "wrong" ;-)
Good Reasoning, makes sense for your purposes...and that's not wrong. ;-)
What if you perforate holes on some bricks and place them under the pipes? You would extend the lifetime of your secondary air burners
I don’t understand why people don’t just burn the stove hot enough to burn the creosote before cleaning???
I have a 13NCH Englander wood stove. I doesn't put out the heat it was advertised at. The tubes at the don't seem to function after a few weeks usage. If I were to take out the. blocks, would the steel be strong enough to handle it? The company keeps telling me it's the wood but I can have a nice fire inside and it doesn't get that hot. Any ideas?
Why don't you just put a auger in the rocket stove to feed the end of the fire?
I understand the jam you had but that would take care of it wouldn't it?
Love your vids and sent some and your product video to some of my friend in the business in Israel, Holland then Switzerland
+1stWorldofFreedom I didn't want to use any electricity to run the stove.
Thanks for the info. Do you notice a difference in the amount of wood you burn? I'm thinking of modifying my barrel stove.
It hard to tell since every year seems to be totally different temperatures. There is far less smoke and the chimney hasn't needed cleaning since I did it.
I wouldn’t use a barrel stove material much to thin
What is an ecobrick? Is it anything like the paper bricks I make out of scrap paper?
That stove is looking a bit rough. I am not sure it is going to last very much longer, but I am sure you can get another season out of it.
+Jesse Sisolack They are just a big block of compressed sawdust. I don't think there is anything else mixed in with it.
+Bigelow Brook Farm (Web4Deb) I see. I have used saw dust to start fires, but never as a log.
As for logs made out of water logged compressed paper that are then dried, you will have similar results to what you mentioned. They burn okay, but not as much energy as real hardwoods. They work fine to throw one in every once in a while but they just do not give off the heat you need to fully run your system, or my stove to heat the house.
Can't seem to find the previous videos for the woodstove. I'll look more, but could you post a link for them please?
+Lettuce Grow it Farm FOUND THEM! Ah, always remember to use the search function! LOL
+Lettuce Grow it Farm Here's a link to the entire play list. ;-) ua-cam.com/play/PLtIuZ9K-UzcOw7_C0g_If0RRBD2vTBzip.html
Thanks! Yes, thats what I wound up finding when I searched your channel for "Stove" ;-)
Would a ceramic coating on some of your grating and walls help with the overheating?
+Matthew Lair As the steel expands and contracts, the ceramic will crack and fall off. I had some ceramic coated grates in the rocket mass heater and they didn't last any longer than standard steel grates.
Good to know had thought of it while watching this video
Check out how I burn sawdust brother
nice Work, but the cracked bricks are not really a problem, they would have run for another year.
+Maik Kemper I'm sure you're right...but while I had it dismantled, I figured it was best to replace them. ;-)
How well does the RMH burn wood chips?
+eformance it does OK. The problem is feeding them in since they get stuck on each other. The pellets work far better since they flow right in.
+Bigelow Brook Farm (Web4Deb) thanks for the inspiration :) are there materials that can be used for the stove that would not get damaged / wouldn't need maintenance, permanently?
+interestingyoutubechannel Stainless steel will last a little longer, but not much. Fire brick is usually the best. I guess you could try titanium too! ;-)
Just toss one "bio brick' in with a nice hot wood fire and it will burn much better; rather than trying to burn them by themselves.
Hey brother, check out how I burn sawdust in my stove, you will love it
Your so alternative and diverse, why aren't you using earth? Making rocket stoves and earth thermal mass instead of all this metal? Seems to me in more extreme climates earth would be better.
+James Hansen I like the metal so I can make changes and monitor the air flow. Using earth is fine for a final design, but it's hard to make adjustments once you involve something more permanent like the cob stoves.
Scrap that fire Hazzard