Nope some country celebrate Christmas differently to other country they do not celebrate it in December like Russia who celebrate Christmas every year in January and they celebrate Christmas Tuesday 7 January 2020 for this year ok
Nope some country celebrate Christmas differently to other country they do not celebrate it in December like Russia who celebrate Christmas every year in January and they celebrate Christmas Tuesday 7 January 2020 for this year ok
I was expecting you to install 6 of the LED lamps and one tungsten one. I'm guessing it would have worked, but the tungsten lamp would have been dim. I'm not surprised the capacitors were making noise, 5µF in such a tiny package means a lot of barium titanate, which is pretty piezoelectric (its capacitance also falls off rapidly with voltage). That's also why it failed so quickly: that much capacitance also means there are a lot of thin layers in there, so overvoltage can blow through the dielectric fairly easily.
your timing is amazing Clive, I was working on ride lights earlier and was getting to the point of nearly putting 60v tungsten ones temporarly in to the fittings to help check the wiring for faults in the e14 fitting as i've run out of 60v led ones. Glad i didn't get to that point having now seen this as i would have just put the odd lamp in rather than changing the set of four
Problem is tungsten lamps require a much higher inrush starting current until the filament heats up to working temperature. They are crude PTCs in a sense.
Hi Clive, You might already know that the name of the metal Tungsten is made out of two Scandinavian words: Tung = heavy Sten = rock or stone In Denmark you can use the expression: 'Vi skal flytte en tung sten' = 'We have to move a heavy stone' luv JD
My neighbour bought me one of these to repair just the other day! Looks lethal - the lamp holders are just wire stuffed in the bottom and side of the plastic tubes. This one was actually made in Finland (not China!) and the wire in the base made by Nokia - an antique! And I just found the single LED lamp installed (thanks to BC) that caused it to blow-up!
Im going to order me some of these candle bridge E10 LED replacements. I have an old candle bridge that ive had for a few years but not used because one of the 32V tungsten filament bulbs is smashed and i couldn't find tungsten or LED replacements cheaply. Now clive has told us the key words to search for i can buy a pack of 10 from china for £5.
I done bought these led lights for my eBay store. I broke some which still light up but I just can't sell them damaged. I was quite impressed with the 10-55v range. But what baffles me is it only works on ac. I tried on a DC power brick and it would flash once and go out. I actually am in the US. We are of course 120v. I done rigged two up to the mains in series with a .7w led night light of 120v. I did that because while I don't think 10v overage should hurt it, I just used that night light as a resistor for good measure and all 3 bulbs lit up! So that was quite cool and whilst the night light is a brilliant white the candle arch bulbs were a beautiful warm amber colour.
Close your eyes and listen. If you listen hard enough, you can hear the squeaks and screams of all the passive components Clive has killed through the years
Good to see ya up and at it, I swear we are on the same page, went up to visit my folks my mom had asked me to find her some c7 lamps out of her box of lamps, I found her old flame lamps. One of them didnt work the 2 pieces of metal were to far apart to work so i gave it a "tappy tap tap" and bam it vwerks. Get well soon.
@@matthewellisor5835 well a guy put in his hand (glass) then made sure the metal inside was horizontal and slammed my hand on the counter. The weight of the metal inside bulb and inertia caused them to get closer. However I did have my thumb detecting nut fucker at the ready.
This channel, without trying to, helps me understand why voiceover people roll off the low frequencies at 80hz and below. I need to switch my subwoofer off while watching most Clive videos. The sound quality is lovely, but that low end boom is like listening to music underwater.
I have a candle arch like this, mine still has its incandescent bulbs that it came with and if any go I will still use incandescents because in my opinion they give a nicer glow
Very interesting video with some "rare these days" (glass) Christmas style LED bulbs. You always find the neatest things Clive! That tiny circuit board in each bulb seems to have a well designed circuit inside. As you say, a "very clever" design! Thank you for another interesting and entertaining video!
To reduce the flicker you would just need to make the PCB 2mm longer, and place another of those chip capacitors across the output of the bridge rectifier, to provide a little smoothing. The repurposing of the blown glass is common, the lamp manufacturer is often not going to have a glass forming line, instead getting the ready blown bulb shells in from another supplier, who processes glass into bottles, vials and other blown and stamped glass products.
Hey Clive I think I've got a circuit you could dissect, it's from a Logitech g25 racing wheel. Sold it to a mate and next day were racing when he says he's got no force feedback from the motors and heard something from the wheel right being it stopped working. Tested the diodes and resistor there good but not sure about the mosfet transistors
Aren't those tungsten lamps have like a shunt isolated with thin layer of lacquer inside that is meant to short lamp once tungsten filament breaks so that other lamps in seriec contunue to work?
I made one with full-size (big twisty) 40W candle bulbs! Three lots of 2 in series and the odd one at the top in series with an 8W fluorescent ballast. Rather inefficient but looks great!
i don’t see that problem with 13v DC is the rectfier with capacitor in 240VAC what is the problem or is it less of a problem if it was American 120VAC due to the lower voltage flow
At 0:13:20 clive says that the 560 ohm resistor is 'quite a high value'. Why is it considered high? I often hear people say this when the ohms are in the hundreds. Surely mega ohms are high and a few hundred ohms is low?
I plugged an LED Christmas light into a regular mains powered tungsten light string. It was only while it was in the process of exploding in my hand that I realized the error of my ways.
Clive. If you're interested and they're in stock on the IOM, Poundland have some big high density foam blocks in their fitness section. £2 each. 9x5x3 inches.
How does voltage regulators work that only have 1 wire? how do they regulate voltages with one wire. i know it could be grounded through how the regulator is mounted but as for how it actually adjusts the voltage im not sure. I just want to understand how it works. thank you. im wondering because my snowmobile regulator is gone and it only has one wire
It looks like your camera does some sharpening (maybe some over sharpening) in post, judging by the halo-ing around the text on the bottom of the screen at 14:30.
I started to replace my tungstens in one chandelier with one and then two LEDs and after that the chandelier didn't light up at all. I had to replace all the remaining tungstens with LEDs and then, lo and behold! There Was Light! Now all my chandeliers are populated with LEDs.
If you have 1 LED with 6 tungstens then aren't you initially running the capacitor in the LED one at several times its rated voltage hence the early failure ?
Big Clive, another great video, as usual - many thanks. Have you ever done a video dismantle of the coffee-pod/capsule machines? What are they, an elaborate kettle, do they pump water through the coffee-pod? General sorts of questions on them.
There have been issues in the past with inductive circuits damaging electronics with voltage spikes. But they should have protection against that. Mixing them in a single fixture might not be a good idea.
Those fairground 60V bulbs probably started out as 55V for 220V in Europe, 110V in America and 55V on old GE/Edison grids. Later reforms raised the grid voltage by a few percent.
Since they are all in series, could you not remove all the tungsten lamps, plug it back in and install the LED lamps? Why would you need to wait to plug it in until all the LEDs were installed?
Safety instinct. The metal on each bulb is live at mains voltage. Chance of touching is low. But change thousands over a career in lighting, and the probability explodes.
Clive having a CNC that uses a Dewalt 611 router. Do you know where I can buy the brushes in bulk for this motor. each set(2) last about a 100 hours. It is not long when doing 3D projects. Thanks
You should be able to get them online, but you may have to go by size and the connection system to try and find if it's a common brush. If it's going through a lot of brushes you may have to clean the carbon from the commutator and surrounding area.
I changed three leds in my tv the other month and they are notably brighter than the others, but they are rated the same? I assumed this was a result of them being brand new and the others at 2 years old had lost some intensity. Will these dampen down eventually and line up with the others, or should I change all the LEDs instead?
I discovered these LED E10s this Christmas and replaced my incandescent candle bridge's lamps with them as there's no point in wasting 21w on warm white incandescents when warm white LEDs look identical. Ordered mine for £5 for a set from a Hong Kong eBay seller but mine didn't buzz or have any flicker (tested with camera). So maybe I got a higher grade of lamp by paying a couple of pounds more? Was very impressed with Chinese products this time.
Have you got a link or search term or seller id? My mam's light bridge has one dim bulb and I'd like to replace them. And do they look as good as the incandescents? Clearly on this they look a bit pants because of the flicker but it's probably just on camera. Thanks.
@@CountDrunkula emarket4un was the seller. Flicker is detectable to some people and the sign of a poor circuitry design (the ones I bought don't have any flicker at all). Look exactly like the old ones, same white just a little dimmer but energy saving is huge and would probably never have to replace them again. My arch is a 7 candle pine one that was originally using 3w E10 incandescents. I figured it was much better to upgrade my old one than buying those annoying battery candle arches which always need to have the batteries changed and don't have replaceable bulbs. Hope that helps!
Could you recommend an led to upgrade a 1950 tungsten series wired Christmas set with 20 lights please, various colors. Brilliant content as usual Clive.
Hi Clive, Remember, a guy has to take care of his bulbs - or there won't be any fruit later in the season! I'm impressed that the 'fried' lamp still gave a fair account of itself even after the fry-up, but I wonder how long it would have lasted if left in circuit, and how much it would have over stressed the rest of the chain. Now, I have an old neon "flicker flame" candle bridge (seven neons in parallel @ 240V) - I wonder if anyone has ever tried replacing those bulbs with a set of these little LEDs. . I suspect the fry-up would be a whole lot more impressive!
I like the flicker flame lamps, but the resistors inside get baked in the UK due to the extra voltage dissipation. I made a video way back in 2012 about making them last a lot longer. ua-cam.com/video/XVrVWcIK4zE/v-deo.html
Thanks for the video. A friend of mine was hating against LED lamps and said they are just a money making scheme because they always blow up for him. I now know why that is. His chandelier has 7 lamps. 3 LED, 4 oldschool tungsten ones. That is good to know.
That should be OK unless it's a low voltage halogen chandelier. The very small LED lamps are very prone to early failure due to the heat and compact circuitry.
@@bigclivedotcom That is interesting that you say that. I run everything in my appartment with LED bulbs. E14, E27, G9. Only a single LED bulb failed to this date (knock on wood). But his lamps fail basically left right and center. Can this be an issue with additional heat from the tungsten ones? The lamps run basically in a little glass-dome where they are shielded upwards. Hot air gets trapped and might fry the circuits. The lamps in question are E14 "reflector style" lamps that don't have the regular bulb-shape and I might think that this will have an impact on the size. Nevertheless: Great video and I will make sure to tell my mum to NOT replace single bulbs in her christmas-lights that take the same lamp-style you showed here.
Doesn't this just boil down to a matter current draw, the LED being less than tungsten? There's a similar issue when replacing some of the older car directional indicator lamps with LEDs--they don't draw enough current to keep the bimetal blinker going. The usual fix is a resistor across the lamp socket.
@James Sloan As far as I'm aware, unless these are strange LEDs, the inrush current should be the same as the operating current. Perhaps this video will help: ua-cam.com/video/ADKjG3Z2L5w/v-deo.html
When I worked in Maplin we would get asked for replacement bulbs for these fixtures dozens of times a day and the company simply couldn't be bothered stocking them. I'd be willing to bet the company might still be standing today if we had.
I miss Maplins, the staff was brilliant but let down by poor management. When they started ditching components and chasing consumer electrical goods that you could buy cheaper at Argos it was the beginning of the end.
This should apply to putting a new identical lamp aswell since the filament will be deteriorated in the older lamps. Isn't it like car headlight that you should change all of them when one burns out and use the rest as spares?
It's not only if the replacement lamp is ment for a chain of different numbers, you get uneven light. You get the same if the new light is of a different wattage, as the resistance is also different.
By the way, in traditional fairy light bulbs you have the shunt. I understand how that works: filament burns and increased open circuit voltage burns the resisting coating on the shunt, but how is it possible that when a second filament burns in a string, the lights go out AND replacing only one bulb will bring the lights back, but it doesn't matter which one it is? edit: this has to have something to do with the non-linearity of the resistance of the filaments?
Yes, they are badly drawn resistors. Proper resistors are zigzags, not boxes! 🌭⚾🇺🇸⚾🌭 (No apple pie or Yankee Doodle emojis, alas) I've never understood why ISO chose boxes for resistors and inductors. The ANSI symbols are much more evocative and faster to draw.
@@gurgelplus OK, I was teached the way I wrote. I knew about American zigzag for resistor but I think I didn't see schematic yet with filled box for inductor.
Mariusz Kozłowski it doesn’t matter which design you use as long as everybody knows which is what and that is usually the case if someone has some electrical experience or background...
Hey :) Again, I love what you do on your channel, and dig how you do it :) I need to make you aware of a UA-cam audio glitch. When I watch this video on my Roku Ultra, there is no audio. I've had this issue with someone else's video, too. It sounds fine on my Android devices, though. Hmm...
Rewire the candle arch in parallel , and supply it from a transformer , usually 24volt output, 24va is the usual standard - this is safe and suits most lamps.
Seems the problem is not so much mixing LED and hotwire, but mixing bulbs designed to draw different currents. Of course the LED bulbs designed for a given light output at a given voltage can be expected to draw a lot less current. Match the power requirements up right and a hotwire could work reasonably as a ballast for LEDs.
hmm.. i swear all the ones I've seen here in the states are wired in parallel, but these aren't very common these days. Next one I see i'm gonna have to check. :( I miss them lol
You know what would blow the socks off of these series capacitive dropper circuits? A cheap constant current regulator diode like the NSI50010YT1G. Maybe 5 cents apiece in reel quantities from the right supplier? You could lose the series resistor AND the capacitive dropper (Bridge rectifier + CC diode + LED and done) and probably pay about the same or less. It can withstand up to 50V at fixed constant currents and has a negative temperature coefficient (hot chips provide less current and won't run away). Cheapest and most effective current regulator for LEDs that I'm aware of. Would work with 110V AC as well without any modification, so even less inventory to keep on hand for resellers.
huh, i didnt know you made videos so far in advance of releasing them. also i can tell right away that the quality is 720p. it just has that "look". not sure whats goin on with your recording device but i assume it supports 1080p?
@@bigclivedotcom ah, okay. glad you weren't switching to 720p for some reason. in fullscreen on my 1440p monitor it doesn't look so good compared to your 1080p
Well... this is amusing to me, last Christmas (2019) we got out the Scandinavian candle arch/bridge and as mum had put some crappy incandescent bulbs in it already, it died after a few days, even tapping it made no difference. Like the rest of the world, I thought of upgrading it with LED bulbs 😀 and went on the internet and found the bulbs (same to what Clive has in this video) 10x on Amazon UK, 1 5-star review, made in Hong-Kong, assuming to be rated for mains 240v, 34v each, ✅ ok, I’ll buy them. Despite what Amazon had estimated for arrival, they were delivered quite early - after boxing-day and I excitedly cut open the package and took out the bulbs and went to, took the arch off the window behind the tree and sitting beside it on the lounge floor and unplugged it and unscrewed the incandescents and screwed the LEDs in and plugged it back in and oh....🤭 they weren’t working 🙁 I assumed that the crappy incandescents had blown the fuse in the plug/a poor connection 🤨 I went to get a multi-meter and contact cleaner. 🧐 the fuse and connections were alright and even dad was stubbed watching with great amusement and showing it to mum, the LEDs were dim and I played with it a bit more and found (weirdly) that when 1 of the incandescents (unlit, resistive dummy load) was put in the 2nd holder from the lead end of the bridge, then the LEDs would light 💡, so I gave up and left it like that, at least the family/visitors had already been, so we put up with this malfunctioning decoration for the remainder of Christmas and next year will repopulate it with (new) oldie incandescents as been done when we first bought it ☹️. I assume the bulbs are faulty/chineseum crap and I still have them and the receipt; seller- ShuoHuiTechnology, and gave a 1 star review on the Amazon posting in response, if Clive wants them for investigation I will re-deliver them (your address) 😁
John Coops - 🙄😠, do you want me to decipher you as a troll and block you from this comment; this is just a comment to the posted video and not an assay/similar extravagant word document/publication, with all the grammatical bells and whistles. I am computer/smartphone-literate and can type such things in Microsoft Word, I have mild-dyslexia and without auto correct, dictation function in the Oxford Dictionary app, this reply and the main comment would have spelling mistakes in it, at least you can be appreciative of that. 😐 and I consider emojis are how I felt in the event that I was describing. Their not stupid.
Nope some country celebrate Christmas differently to other country they do not celebrate it in December like Russia who celebrate Christmas every year in January and they celebrate Christmas Tuesday 7 January 2020 for this year ok
The fairground lighting evolved from having 2 in series on a 110v dc supply, as a 60v lamp filament for the 10 watt E14 size is more robust mechanically - nowadays led lamps are made for retrofit in a variety of voltages - these definitely can not be mixed!
Informative vids, thank you. I have GU10 LED's, supplier claims 20000+hrs life. I've had plenty of failures at no-where near that life. Would you be interested in tearing them down and commenting on their quality...?
@@AppleGameification It shows the difference between apparent and real power (i.e. how much energy it seems to use and how much it really uses). At the moment that's not a problem, but Clive likes to prophesy that at some point the electric companies will switch the smart meters over to measure apparent power (because they can do that, unlike the old mechanical meters), and your electricity bill will skyrocket.
@@jwalker7567 Old meters use real power, apparent power is always higher (unless you have a Power Factor of 1). It has to do with how inductive and capacitive loads shift the sine wave. And depending on where you live, you might not be able to say no to getting a smart meter, because your electric company is required by law to install one.
Well, if you think about the loads of LEDs vs the loads of motors, the power factor actually gets a lot closer to 100%, but as there are far more motor loads, I don't think that a few little LEDs will cause too much of an over correction.
"when Christmas approaches" we'll in someway you're not wrong. 🎄
we've never been closer to the next Christmas!
well*
Also, it's almost weekend.
They are in a Hanukkah Menorah anyway, but that ended December 18 if Wikipedia is correct.
@@whitcwa That's not a Menorah. Those have nine lights (more properly candles) and are shaped like a U.
"I was hoping it would go nuclear there." - That's why i subbed years ago. Good stuff, bigclive.
The Christmas hype just gets earlier every year. But, bloody hell Clive, January is pushing it just a bit!
Nope some country celebrate Christmas differently to other country they do not celebrate it in December like Russia who celebrate Christmas every year in January and they celebrate Christmas Tuesday 7 January 2020 for this year ok
Nope some country celebrate Christmas differently to other country they do not celebrate it in December like Russia who celebrate Christmas every year in January and they celebrate Christmas Tuesday 7 January 2020 for this year ok
"It died with a little squeak................."
Now I am giggling for the rest of the evening
Eee.
it screamed (or, is bigger) on the inside... like good introvert
"It died with a little squeak," said Gollum.
😆
I was expecting you to install 6 of the LED lamps and one tungsten one. I'm guessing it would have worked, but the tungsten lamp would have been dim. I'm not surprised the capacitors were making noise, 5µF in such a tiny package means a lot of barium titanate, which is pretty piezoelectric (its capacitance also falls off rapidly with voltage). That's also why it failed so quickly: that much capacitance also means there are a lot of thin layers in there, so overvoltage can blow through the dielectric fairly easily.
your timing is amazing Clive, I was working on ride lights earlier and was getting to the point of nearly putting 60v tungsten ones temporarly in to the fittings to help check the wiring for faults in the e14 fitting as i've run out of 60v led ones. Glad i didn't get to that point having now seen this as i would have just put the odd lamp in rather than changing the set of four
When you used the hopi with just the one LED lamp, the power factor was still 1.000, indicating that the capacitor had died, right?
Yes.
Good catch.
Yes. There'd be a slight degradation from the two diodes, but not enough to notice.
Problem is tungsten lamps require a much higher inrush starting current until the filament heats up to working temperature. They are crude PTCs in a sense.
Heat bulbs with a side effect of light
First Christmas video of the year! Let the countdown commence!
Hi Clive,
You might already know that the name of the metal Tungsten is made out of two Scandinavian words:
Tung = heavy
Sten = rock or stone
In Denmark you can use the expression: 'Vi skal flytte en tung sten' = 'We have to move a heavy stone'
luv
JD
My neighbour bought me one of these to repair just the other day! Looks lethal - the lamp holders are just wire stuffed in the bottom and side of the plastic tubes. This one was actually made in Finland (not China!) and the wire in the base made by Nokia - an antique! And I just found the single LED lamp installed (thanks to BC) that caused it to blow-up!
Very nice design, they probably just pulled one production module out and inserted another an bang on with new technology. nice video
Im going to order me some of these candle bridge E10 LED replacements. I have an old candle bridge that ive had for a few years but not used because one of the 32V tungsten filament bulbs is smashed and i couldn't find tungsten or LED replacements cheaply. Now clive has told us the key words to search for i can buy a pack of 10 from china for £5.
I just wish I had all your knowledge. Thx for all the interesting videos
I done bought these led lights for my eBay store. I broke some which still light up but I just can't sell them damaged. I was quite impressed with the 10-55v range. But what baffles me is it only works on ac. I tried on a DC power brick and it would flash once and go out. I actually am in the US. We are of course 120v. I done rigged two up to the mains in series with a .7w led night light of 120v. I did that because while I don't think 10v overage should hurt it, I just used that night light as a resistor for good measure and all 3 bulbs lit up! So that was quite cool and whilst the night light is a brilliant white the candle arch bulbs were a beautiful warm amber colour.
At 16:07 "it died with a little squeak inside"
LOL must have been an ultrasonic squeak because I didn't hear it :)
Close your eyes and listen. If you listen hard enough, you can hear the squeaks and screams of all the passive components Clive has killed through the years
That should be his motto for the channel... LOL
@@thomasvlaskampiii6850 Lord knows what sort of noise the transistors he's killed would make.
@@Roflcopter4b Maybe a 1kHz square wave scream? That'd be fun to hear...
Good to see ya up and at it, I swear we are on the same page, went up to visit my folks my mom had asked me to find her some c7 lamps out of her box of lamps, I found her old flame lamps. One of them didnt work the 2 pieces of metal were to far apart to work so i gave it a "tappy tap tap" and bam it vwerks. Get well soon.
Did you also call it skookum as frig? ;)
Did you apply percussive maintenance with your thumb detector?
@@matthewellisor5835 "thumb detector" I may have to steal this.
@@benbaselet2026 right orn
@@matthewellisor5835 well a guy put in his hand (glass) then made sure the metal inside was horizontal and slammed my hand on the counter. The weight of the metal inside bulb and inertia caused them to get closer. However I did have my thumb detecting nut fucker at the ready.
This channel, without trying to, helps me understand why voiceover people roll off the low frequencies at 80hz and below. I need to switch my subwoofer off while watching most Clive videos. The sound quality is lovely, but that low end boom is like listening to music underwater.
I have a candle arch like this, mine still has its incandescent bulbs that it came with and if any go I will still use incandescents because in my opinion they give a nicer glow
Very interesting video with some "rare these days" (glass) Christmas style LED bulbs. You always find the neatest things Clive! That tiny circuit board in each bulb seems to have a well designed circuit inside. As you say, a "very clever" design! Thank you for another interesting and entertaining video!
To reduce the flicker you would just need to make the PCB 2mm longer, and place another of those chip capacitors across the output of the bridge rectifier, to provide a little smoothing. The repurposing of the blown glass is common, the lamp manufacturer is often not going to have a glass forming line, instead getting the ready blown bulb shells in from another supplier, who processes glass into bottles, vials and other blown and stamped glass products.
Hey Clive I think I've got a circuit you could dissect, it's from a Logitech g25 racing wheel. Sold it to a mate and next day were racing when he says he's got no force feedback from the motors and heard something from the wheel right being it stopped working. Tested the diodes and resistor there good but not sure about the mosfet transistors
Aren't those tungsten lamps have like a shunt isolated with thin layer of lacquer inside that is meant to short lamp once tungsten filament breaks so that other lamps in seriec contunue to work?
I made one with full-size (big twisty) 40W candle bulbs! Three lots of 2 in series and the odd one at the top in series with an 8W fluorescent ballast. Rather inefficient but looks great!
Great info. Dont understand all of the electrical mumbojumbo but Imglad there are people who do!👍
Grill that thing Clive😎
i don’t see that problem with 13v DC is the rectfier with capacitor in 240VAC what is the problem or is it less of a problem if it was American 120VAC due to the lower voltage flow
At 4+ watts in a small SMD resistor, it was probably close to glowing along with the LED
What is a good way to send you a few small things to have your way with?
At 0:13:20 clive says that the 560 ohm resistor is 'quite a high value'. Why is it considered high? I often hear people say this when the ohms are in the hundreds. Surely mega ohms are high and a few hundred ohms is low?
@Brandon Smith Yes, that's what I thought. So the resistor was high relative to what Clive expected to see...?
@@wthornton7346 Yes.
"The answer is no, it had just blown up"
I plugged an LED Christmas light into a regular mains powered tungsten light string. It was only while it was in the process of exploding in my hand that I realized the error of my ways.
Clive. If you're interested and they're in stock on the IOM, Poundland have some big high density foam blocks in their fitness section. £2 each. 9x5x3 inches.
How does voltage regulators work that only have 1 wire? how do they regulate voltages with one wire. i know it could be grounded through how the regulator is mounted but as for how it actually adjusts the voltage im not sure. I just want to understand how it works. thank you. im wondering because my snowmobile regulator is gone and it only has one wire
I'd be interested to see a guide to replacing G4 halogen bulbs with LEDs and their compatibility with older transformers and dimmer switches etc
It looks like your camera does some sharpening (maybe some over sharpening) in post, judging by the halo-ing around the text on the bottom of the screen at 14:30.
I started to replace my tungstens in one chandelier with one and then two LEDs and after that the chandelier didn't light up at all. I had to replace all the remaining tungstens with LEDs and then, lo and behold! There Was Light! Now all my chandeliers are populated with LEDs.
Fck the leds
If you have 1 LED with 6 tungstens then aren't you initially running the capacitor in the LED one at several times its rated voltage hence the early failure ?
Big Clive, another great video, as usual - many thanks.
Have you ever done a video dismantle of the coffee-pod/capsule machines? What are they, an elaborate kettle, do they pump water through the coffee-pod? General sorts of questions on them.
I am told you cannot mix paralleled LED with standard inductor fluorescent battens...any light on that Clive?
There have been issues in the past with inductive circuits damaging electronics with voltage spikes. But they should have protection against that. Mixing them in a single fixture might not be a good idea.
Those fairground 60V bulbs probably started out as 55V for 220V in Europe, 110V in America and 55V on old GE/Edison grids. Later reforms raised the grid voltage by a few percent.
Since they are all in series, could you not remove all the tungsten lamps, plug it back in and install the LED lamps? Why would you need to wait to plug it in until all the LEDs were installed?
Safety instinct. The metal on each bulb is live at mains voltage. Chance of touching is low. But change thousands over a career in lighting, and the probability explodes.
Oh, I understand. They aren't wired in parallel because when they fail they may short, overloading the circuit and (hopefully) popping the breaker.
Clive having a CNC that uses a Dewalt 611 router. Do you know where I can buy the brushes in bulk for this motor. each set(2) last about a 100 hours. It is not long when doing 3D projects. Thanks
You should be able to get them online, but you may have to go by size and the connection system to try and find if it's a common brush.
If it's going through a lot of brushes you may have to clean the carbon from the commutator and surrounding area.
Candle arch? Looks like a menorah to me not exactly Christmas decor but its that time of year though for both
I changed three leds in my tv the other month and they are notably brighter than the others, but they are rated the same?
I assumed this was a result of them being brand new and the others at 2 years old had lost some intensity. Will these dampen down eventually and line up with the others, or should I change all the LEDs instead?
They will gradually catch up. All LEDs degrade over time, especially white ones.
Thanks Clive. I wont risk opening it up again, it was a miracle I didn't break the flimsy thin screen last time.
I discovered these LED E10s this Christmas and replaced my incandescent candle bridge's lamps with them as there's no point in wasting 21w on warm white incandescents when warm white LEDs look identical.
Ordered mine for £5 for a set from a Hong Kong eBay seller but mine didn't buzz or have any flicker (tested with camera).
So maybe I got a higher grade of lamp by paying a couple of pounds more? Was very impressed with Chinese products this time.
Have you got a link or search term or seller id? My mam's light bridge has one dim bulb and I'd like to replace them. And do they look as good as the incandescents? Clearly on this they look a bit pants because of the flicker but it's probably just on camera. Thanks.
@@CountDrunkula emarket4un was the seller. Flicker is detectable to some people and the sign of a poor circuitry design (the ones I bought don't have any flicker at all). Look exactly like the old ones, same white just a little dimmer but energy saving is huge and would probably never have to replace them again. My arch is a 7 candle pine one that was originally using 3w E10 incandescents.
I figured it was much better to upgrade my old one than buying those annoying battery candle arches which always need to have the batteries changed and don't have replaceable bulbs.
Hope that helps!
Every time Clive says "Fairy Lights" in my brain the smurfs start singing.
now you broke my brain too
@@ketas LOL
@Matt Quinn I dunno. I guess they've just been there since the '80s.
Hey Clive, I've never been able to find USB powered candle arches. they're either battery or mains. Why has no one considered a USB one?
You can convert a battery operated one to USB.
Clive, please can you put a link in the description for the search you did to find these.
great.. my cuppa tea is cold now. who knew Christmas lights where so interesting.
But a cup of tea is supposed to be cold! ;-)
Drink it anyway, nothing goes to waste
A true travesty..
is your meter acually flickering or is it just camera shutter?
Camera effect.
Hey Clive, the UK uses 240v on everything. My question is, is it 240 to neutral or 2, 120 lines?
Single phase 240v. 415v between phases.
Could you recommend an led to upgrade a 1950 tungsten series wired Christmas set with 20 lights please, various colors.
Brilliant content as usual Clive.
Hi Clive,
Remember, a guy has to take care of his bulbs - or there won't be any fruit later in the season!
I'm impressed that the 'fried' lamp still gave a fair account of itself even after the fry-up, but I wonder how long it would have lasted if left in circuit, and how much it would have over stressed the rest of the chain.
Now, I have an old neon "flicker flame" candle bridge (seven neons in parallel @ 240V) - I wonder if anyone has ever tried replacing those bulbs with a set of these little LEDs. . I suspect the fry-up would be a whole lot more impressive!
I like the flicker flame lamps, but the resistors inside get baked in the UK due to the extra voltage dissipation. I made a video way back in 2012 about making them last a lot longer.
ua-cam.com/video/XVrVWcIK4zE/v-deo.html
That via on the center of the bridge rectifier is insanely close to the positive pad of the right A7. A couple of tenths of a millimeter?
Thanks for the video.
A friend of mine was hating against LED lamps and said they are just a money making scheme because they always blow up for him.
I now know why that is.
His chandelier has 7 lamps. 3 LED, 4 oldschool tungsten ones.
That is good to know.
That should be OK unless it's a low voltage halogen chandelier. The very small LED lamps are very prone to early failure due to the heat and compact circuitry.
@@bigclivedotcom That is interesting that you say that.
I run everything in my appartment with LED bulbs. E14, E27, G9. Only a single LED bulb failed to this date (knock on wood). But his lamps fail basically left right and center.
Can this be an issue with additional heat from the tungsten ones? The lamps run basically in a little glass-dome where they are shielded upwards. Hot air gets trapped and might fry the circuits. The lamps in question are E14 "reflector style" lamps that don't have the regular bulb-shape and I might think that this will have an impact on the size.
Nevertheless: Great video and I will make sure to tell my mum to NOT replace single bulbs in her christmas-lights that take the same lamp-style you showed here.
Doesn't this just boil down to a matter current draw, the LED being less than tungsten?
There's a similar issue when replacing some of the older car directional indicator lamps with LEDs--they don't draw enough current to keep the bimetal blinker going. The usual fix is a resistor across the lamp socket.
@James Sloan As far as I'm aware, unless these are strange LEDs, the inrush current should be the same as the operating current. Perhaps this video will help: ua-cam.com/video/ADKjG3Z2L5w/v-deo.html
I would love for you to make a video demonstrating what Power Factor is and show examples of circuits/devices with high and low power factors.
9:05 surely the one you are replacing is already out? Isn’t that the reason you are replacing it? And so therefore so are all the others?
You tricked me into thinking my phone, that for some reason sounded far away, got a facebook messenger notification 11:24
is it only on my end or does the video stutter more than once ? buffer/wlan is top here and i'm on an android tablet.
Clive, u are the coolest UA-camr!
When I worked in Maplin we would get asked for replacement bulbs for these fixtures dozens of times a day and the company simply couldn't be bothered stocking them. I'd be willing to bet the company might still be standing today if we had.
I miss Maplins, the staff was brilliant but let down by poor management. When they started ditching components and chasing consumer electrical goods that you could buy cheaper at Argos it was the beginning of the end.
@@markpitt5248 Agreed
This should apply to putting a new identical lamp aswell since the filament will be deteriorated in the older lamps. Isn't it like car headlight that you should change all of them when one burns out and use the rest as spares?
It's not only if the replacement lamp is ment for a chain of different numbers, you get uneven light.
You get the same if the new light is of a different wattage, as the resistance is also different.
nearly 600k subs your doing well for youself now son
By the way, in traditional fairy light bulbs you have the shunt. I understand how that works: filament burns and increased open circuit voltage burns the resisting coating on the shunt, but how is it possible that when a second filament burns in a string, the lights go out AND replacing only one bulb will bring the lights back, but it doesn't matter which one it is?
edit: this has to have something to do with the non-linearity of the resistance of the filaments?
Okay, the pink calculator with the "Sissy Squad" sticker on the front is a nice touch.
It originally said Sassy Squad until one of my coworkers changed the A to an I with a sharpie.
Yes, they are badly drawn resistors. Proper resistors are zigzags, not boxes! 🌭⚾🇺🇸⚾🌭
(No apple pie or Yankee Doodle emojis, alas)
I've never understood why ISO chose boxes for resistors and inductors. The ANSI symbols are much more evocative and faster to draw.
I can remember the transition from zig-zags to boxes. It was annoying having to change.
Since when the inductor is a box? Resistor is a box, inductor is a few bowed wires and capacitor is two lines with separation.
Mariusz Kozłowski it’s a filled box. Resistor is a empty box🤷🏼♂️
@@gurgelplus OK, I was teached the way I wrote. I knew about American zigzag for resistor but I think I didn't see schematic yet with filled box for inductor.
Mariusz Kozłowski it doesn’t matter which design you use as long as everybody knows which is what and that is usually the case if someone has some electrical experience or background...
Hey :) Again, I love what you do on your channel, and dig how you do it :) I need to make you aware of a UA-cam audio glitch. When I watch this video on my Roku Ultra, there is no audio. I've had this issue with someone else's video, too. It sounds fine on my Android devices, though. Hmm...
Your dolby surround sound might be set to use a missing middle speaker. Try changing the setting to plain stereo.
Rewire the candle arch in parallel , and supply it from a transformer , usually 24volt output, 24va is the usual
standard - this is safe and suits most lamps.
I'd like to try some of those in my vintage US C6 light sets. That's eight lamps (14-16v each) on 120.
That is an amazing calculator, where did you come across it?
Poundland. The best bit about it is that it has ten digits instead of 8.
Power factor stayed at 1 with one led in series but dropped to 0.3 with leds only. Why didn't it drop at all with one led?
Capacitor shorted does explain that... hadn't watched the whole video.
Take a drink each time someone in the comments asks how some were posted 2 weeks ago.
someone will die because of your idea
Paul Drake At least that explains the Xmas reference.
I saw the title and thought this has got to be fun.
Seems the problem is not so much mixing LED and hotwire, but mixing bulbs designed to draw different currents. Of course the LED bulbs designed for a given light output at a given voltage can be expected to draw a lot less current. Match the power requirements up right and a hotwire could work reasonably as a ballast for LEDs.
Very interesting video! Thanks a lot.
1:55 Thank goodness Clive turned the brightness down!
Its not pointless I love and envy your drawing
Newer LED variants have fuse and a DB107 rectifier in input.
Everything else seems to be the same.
hmm.. i swear all the ones I've seen here in the states are wired in parallel, but these aren't very common these days. Next one I see i'm gonna have to check. :( I miss them lol
Usually C7 size 120v lamps, as you said in parallel
You know what would blow the socks off of these series capacitive dropper circuits? A cheap constant current regulator diode like the NSI50010YT1G. Maybe 5 cents apiece in reel quantities from the right supplier? You could lose the series resistor AND the capacitive dropper (Bridge rectifier + CC diode + LED and done) and probably pay about the same or less. It can withstand up to 50V at fixed constant currents and has a negative temperature coefficient (hot chips provide less current and won't run away). Cheapest and most effective current regulator for LEDs that I'm aware of. Would work with 110V AC as well without any modification, so even less inventory to keep on hand for resellers.
the 1.000 power factor with the single LED in series kinda gave it (the failure mode) away.
huh, i didnt know you made videos so far in advance of releasing them. also i can tell right away that the quality is 720p. it just has that "look". not sure whats goin on with your recording device but i assume it supports 1080p?
I didn't realise it was recording 720P initially. Only a few videos were recorded at 720.
@@bigclivedotcom ah, okay. glad you weren't switching to 720p for some reason. in fullscreen on my 1440p monitor it doesn't look so good compared to your 1080p
I thought you were going to bring in you x-ray device 🔨
The fucking calculator 😂😂😂 Actually made my day there clive. For that, I thank you.
ha the resistor in the lamp base used to have the 561 silkscreen but the numbers got cooked off
6:51 the leds have a horrid flicker unlike the incandescents and it’s much dimmer
In the next video, show us the cobbled-together time portal you used to move xmas
Well... this is amusing to me, last Christmas (2019) we got out the Scandinavian candle arch/bridge and as mum had put some crappy incandescent bulbs in it already, it died after a few days, even tapping it made no difference. Like the rest of the world, I thought of upgrading it with LED bulbs 😀 and went on the internet and found the bulbs (same to what Clive has in this video) 10x on Amazon UK, 1 5-star review, made in Hong-Kong, assuming to be rated for mains 240v, 34v each, ✅ ok, I’ll buy them. Despite what Amazon had estimated for arrival, they were delivered quite early - after boxing-day and I excitedly cut open the package and took out the bulbs and went to, took the arch off the window behind the tree and sitting beside it on the lounge floor and unplugged it and unscrewed the incandescents and screwed the LEDs in and plugged it back in and oh....🤭 they weren’t working 🙁 I assumed that the crappy incandescents had blown the fuse in the plug/a poor connection 🤨 I went to get a multi-meter and contact cleaner. 🧐 the fuse and connections were alright and even dad was stubbed watching with great amusement and showing it to mum, the LEDs were dim and I played with it a bit more and found (weirdly) that when 1 of the incandescents (unlit, resistive dummy load) was put in the 2nd holder from the lead end of the bridge, then the LEDs would light 💡, so I gave up and left it like that, at least the family/visitors had already been, so we put up with this malfunctioning decoration for the remainder of Christmas and next year will repopulate it with (new) oldie incandescents as been done when we first bought it ☹️. I assume the bulbs are faulty/chineseum crap and I still have them and the receipt; seller- ShuoHuiTechnology, and gave a 1 star review on the Amazon posting in response, if Clive wants them for investigation I will re-deliver them (your address) 😁
John Coops - 🙄😠, do you want me to decipher you as a troll and block you from this comment; this is just a comment to the posted video and not an assay/similar extravagant word document/publication, with all the grammatical bells and whistles. I am computer/smartphone-literate and can type such things in Microsoft Word, I have mild-dyslexia and without auto correct, dictation function in the Oxford Dictionary app, this reply and the main comment would have spelling mistakes in it, at least you can be appreciative of that. 😐 and I consider emojis are how I felt in the event that I was describing. Their not stupid.
I miss Christmas now thanks.
Nope some country celebrate Christmas differently to other country they do not celebrate it in December like Russia who celebrate Christmas every year in January and they celebrate Christmas Tuesday 7 January 2020 for this year ok
I always like the flame effect neon for these... sadness at lack of nuclear failure
So seven rectifiers in series. Trying to figure out what happens.
The fairground lighting evolved from having 2 in series on a 110v dc supply, as a 60v lamp
filament for the 10 watt E14 size is more robust mechanically - nowadays led lamps are made for retrofit
in a variety of voltages - these definitely can not be mixed!
Informative vids, thank you. I have GU10 LED's, supplier claims 20000+hrs life. I've had plenty of failures at no-where near that life. Would you be interested in tearing them down and commenting on their quality...?
The GU10 lamps often bake due to the small size and intensity expectations.
power factor went to hell when he connected all the LEDs, always worrying for the future.
@@AppleGameification It shows the difference between apparent and real power (i.e. how much energy it seems to use and how much it really uses). At the moment that's not a problem, but Clive likes to prophesy that at some point the electric companies will switch the smart meters over to measure apparent power (because they can do that, unlike the old mechanical meters), and your electricity bill will skyrocket.
@@jwalker7567 You will eventually be required to switch. The metering equipment belongs to the power company.
@@jwalker7567 Old meters use real power, apparent power is always higher (unless you have a Power Factor of 1). It has to do with how inductive and capacitive loads shift the sine wave. And depending on where you live, you might not be able to say no to getting a smart meter, because your electric company is required by law to install one.
@@rolfs2165 we all ready got them. Bill is 25 or so. And 150ish. In the summer
Well, if you think about the loads of LEDs vs the loads of motors, the power factor actually gets a lot closer to 100%, but as there are far more motor loads, I don't think that a few little LEDs will cause too much of an over correction.
I think that is a new record on starting Christmas season early... like... a day after the last one early. :D
LMAO That calculator. I applaud your style sir.