I don't like getting under cars much myself these days so I made a set of 'wheel cribs' and I feel a lolt safer. The design can be found on utube. I have the Bentley version of this car (T2) which I use as a daily driver, great car.
Hey i had the same problem and what make it work was cleaned the fuel pump but worked only for a few month then i order a fuel pump from replacement parts inc, the original pump is discontinued but they have a replacement for you.
I reckon that the SU is a great and simple Carb. Pressing your foot rapidly down on the Accelerator, the vacuum created raises the piston and also the Main Needle, and this gives the 'extra' rich fuel supply to the intake, with the V8 responding almost immediately. So I would remove the screws which hold the piston/needle body. Check the piston, it must be clean and shiny. The same is said for the piston bore - must be really clean. If you would like to restore good Carb performance, on a lovely vehicle at that age, I would most certainly replace both Needles and Main Jet Unit. It is not too expensive to replace these. If these critical parts are worn (by fine abrasive particles in the fuel over the years), you will suffer from a higher fuel consumption. Then you will need to adjust the Main Jet to suit the correct fuel/air ratio. If you know anyone who has a Gunsons Colortune, then this makes the job so much easier, because you can actually see the fuel burn (and correct color) inside each bank of the four cylinders. Setting-up of the choke (following the tune of the Main Jets) is easy, just a re-connection. Make sure that the nuts are torqued to the correct setting, and these are situated at the base of each Carb, securing this to the Inlet Manifold. You do not want (or need) any leaks around there! THEN you will need to set-adjust the linkages between each Carburettor, for the correct balance. Quite simply, you can listen at the 'suction hiss' at each intake of the Carb. Do this with the Air Filters removed temporarily. Start the engine, at a reasonable engine speed of 750rpm. When the engine is warm, get a short piece of flexible clear hose. Put one end to your ear, and the other end to each of the Carb Intakes - in turn. What you are listening for - is a matching hiss noise from each Carb Intake. Adjust the accelerator rod which links both Carbs together. Adjust only one end to match the 'hiss' intensity, and make sure that ALL of the adjustments are fully retightened - which avoids problems later.....Have I missed anything? Check the slow-running scews and adjust until each side just touches the throttle-stop. Back in 1971, I invented a Stroboscopic Carburettor Balancer, and patented this. This Tool allowed the User to adjust (and perfectly match) the volumes of air being drawn into each Carburettor. I had great fun from inventing this, and to use this Tool almost each weekend until 1983. I set-up almost every british twin-carb car, and the SU was the easiest to understand and also easy to work on. One final word of caution is this: The SU Carb has a 'weakness' which needs mentioning here. On some occasions, the Float does not fully close the Needle Valve. This results in a massive overflow of raw fuel, spilling down everywhere! I am certain that this has happened to many other Car Owners that have had SU Carbs on their cars. Cars destroyed completely by fire - Rolls Royces too! So please also consider fitting brand-new Needle Valves in the top of each Float Chamber. Ensure that the Float Needle Valves which you use - are from a reputable supplier. I wanted to write and say how brave you are, taking - on an 'old lady'. The model which you own - is my favorite model of Rolls. These are so cheap to buy these days, but I fear that it can be a 'money pit' too! I will stick with my '71 Beetle. Best wishes from Australia.
Peter, thank you for a thorough replay. This will help people in the same situation as I was with their cars and it's very useful information. The carbs were gummed up and needed cleaning with new jets. Hopefully you'll check out the other videos
@@aalabbasi Thank you for your reply. I hope that my SU notes do help others. I perhaps forgot to mention to top-up the Dashpot with the correct oil & level! I used to enjoy setting and tuning SU's. These days, I am 71 and am excited upon receiving my '71 Superbug Beetle back from a company who is doing a 100% conversion (Tesla batteries), high power (Netgain) Main Motor and also Air Conditioning is being installed. Hopefully, I should 'see' my baby in the New Year. Been gone since last May. My favorite Roller is the mid-seventies Cloud 2. The car is almost an art form, that is really good-looking, and I have been fascinated throughout my life just to see pics, and of course, the real car! Finally, if you are restoring your Roller, and (assuming that both SU's are tuned/ balanced), the next logical step would be to place focus upon your Distributor. Please check for Rotor Radial Play, particularly at the top where the Contact Breaker Points are positioned. As you would already know, any 'free play' here is bad news. It might vary the Points Gap, and thus slightly change the firing position. Please, please consider replacing the Contact Breaker with a Hall-Effect System. In this way, you dispose with the Contact Breaker Points, and all of the associated issues. By substituting with an Electronic Ignition System, you will ensure that the Ignition Timing ALWAYS remains set to pin-point accuracy. Honestly, your engine will run much sweeter, and be much more responsive. These Electronic Modules cost only $150, and (fingers crossed), they make a type that would suit your Roller. Talk to Pertronix. Always nice to get a reply, best wishes and hope that you make that car tip-top again!
@@clivehaynes2183 Hi Clive, I wanted to say that I was unaware that the Shadow 2 had Electronic Ignition as standard , so thanks for enlightening me! I had watched "Harry's Garage", where he purchased a white RR Shadow 1 from Ebay, and then he drove it to the Arctic Circle. If you havn't seen this, it's a great video, and well worth watching! Harry has trouble with the Contact Breaker Gap (points had closed due to wear), and he had to adjust and reset the gap. I had wrongly assumed that the Shadow 2 was the same set-up.
This may help even though it's on a Rolls Royce Cloud: ua-cam.com/video/3ih5h1J-AN4/v-deo.html The carb is overflowing because the jet in the choke is clogged or the choke rod is not right (as explained in the video).The aftermarket pump if it's for carbs [2-5 pressure] (and not fuel injection) will NOT cause the carb to overflow. I have 2 aftermarket pumps on 2 of my Shadows without an overflow. The above video shows the jet in the choke bowl. I am sure that is why the car is not idling correctly. The air/fuel ratio is not right.
This is wonderful video, but it shows a SU HD 8 carb. They are built a bit differently from the HIF 7 - especially regarding the float chambers. Fro me, it was very helpful, thank you!
Sounds to me like you have flooded it and its choking ,.... Have you set the mixture etc? Also the system should not overflow,... you may have a blockage in the return line somewhere,..... The fuel pump should always supply more fuel than it needs and the excess should bypass and return to the fuel tank. Aussie.
You are making a big mistake by putting after market parts into this car which are not designed for this RR. Always use the correct replacement Parts if you want this car to run correctly! If not, you will learn the hard way!
I don't like getting under cars much myself these days so I made a set of 'wheel cribs' and I feel a lolt safer. The design can be found on utube. I have the Bentley version of this car (T2) which I use as a daily driver, great car.
🌷🌷🌷🥰🥰🥰 cheerup. Soverybeautiful congraturation
Hey i had the same problem and what make it work was cleaned the fuel pump but worked only for a few month then i order a fuel pump from replacement parts inc, the original pump is discontinued but they have a replacement for you.
I reckon that the SU is a great and simple Carb. Pressing your foot rapidly down on the Accelerator, the vacuum created raises the piston and also the Main Needle, and this gives the 'extra' rich fuel supply to the intake, with the V8 responding almost immediately. So I would remove the screws which hold the piston/needle body. Check the piston, it must be clean and shiny. The same is said for the piston bore - must be really clean. If you would like to restore good Carb performance, on a lovely vehicle at that age, I would most certainly replace both Needles and Main Jet Unit. It is not too expensive to replace these. If these critical parts are worn (by fine abrasive particles in the fuel over the years), you will suffer from a higher fuel consumption. Then you will need to adjust the Main Jet to suit the correct fuel/air ratio. If you know anyone who has a Gunsons Colortune, then this makes the job so much easier, because you can actually see the fuel burn (and correct color) inside each bank of the four cylinders. Setting-up of the choke (following the tune of the Main Jets) is easy, just a re-connection. Make sure that the nuts are torqued to the correct setting, and these are situated at the base of each Carb, securing this to the Inlet Manifold. You do not want (or need) any leaks around there! THEN you will need to set-adjust the linkages between each Carburettor, for the correct balance. Quite simply, you can listen at the 'suction hiss' at each intake of the Carb. Do this with the Air Filters removed temporarily. Start the engine, at a reasonable engine speed of 750rpm. When the engine is warm, get a short piece of flexible clear hose. Put one end to your ear, and the other end to each of the Carb Intakes - in turn. What you are listening for - is a matching hiss noise from each Carb Intake. Adjust the accelerator rod which links both Carbs together. Adjust only one end to match the 'hiss' intensity, and make sure that ALL of the adjustments are fully retightened - which avoids problems later.....Have I missed anything? Check the slow-running scews and adjust until each side just touches the throttle-stop. Back in 1971, I invented a Stroboscopic Carburettor Balancer, and patented this. This Tool allowed the User to adjust (and perfectly match) the volumes of air being drawn into each Carburettor. I had great fun from inventing this, and to use this Tool almost each weekend until 1983. I set-up almost every british twin-carb car, and the SU was the easiest to understand and also easy to work on. One final word of caution is this: The SU Carb has a 'weakness' which needs mentioning here. On some occasions, the Float does not fully close the Needle Valve. This results in a massive overflow of raw fuel, spilling down everywhere! I am certain that this has happened to many other Car Owners that have had SU Carbs on their cars. Cars destroyed completely by fire - Rolls Royces too! So please also consider fitting brand-new Needle Valves in the top of each Float Chamber. Ensure that the Float Needle Valves which you use - are from a reputable supplier. I wanted to write and say how brave you are, taking - on an 'old lady'. The model which you own - is my favorite model of Rolls. These are so cheap to buy these days, but I fear that it can be a 'money pit' too! I will stick with my '71 Beetle. Best wishes from Australia.
Peter, thank you for a thorough replay. This will help people in the same situation as I was with their cars and it's very useful information. The carbs were gummed up and needed cleaning with new jets. Hopefully you'll check out the other videos
@@aalabbasi Thank you for your reply. I hope that my SU notes do help others. I perhaps forgot to mention to top-up the Dashpot with the correct oil & level! I used to enjoy setting and tuning SU's. These days, I am 71 and am excited upon receiving my '71 Superbug Beetle back from a company who is doing a 100% conversion (Tesla batteries), high power (Netgain) Main Motor and also Air Conditioning is being installed. Hopefully, I should 'see' my baby in the New Year. Been gone since last May. My favorite Roller is the mid-seventies Cloud 2. The car is almost an art form, that is really good-looking, and I have been fascinated throughout my life just to see pics, and of course, the real car! Finally, if you are restoring your Roller, and (assuming that both SU's are tuned/ balanced), the next logical step would be to place focus upon your Distributor. Please check for Rotor Radial Play, particularly at the top where the Contact Breaker Points are positioned. As you would already know, any 'free play' here is bad news. It might vary the Points Gap, and thus slightly change the firing position. Please, please consider replacing the Contact Breaker with a Hall-Effect System. In this way, you dispose with the Contact Breaker Points, and all of the associated issues. By substituting with an Electronic Ignition System, you will ensure that the Ignition Timing ALWAYS remains set to pin-point accuracy. Honestly, your engine will run much sweeter, and be much more responsive. These Electronic Modules cost only $150, and (fingers crossed), they make a type that would suit your Roller. Talk to Pertronix. Always nice to get a reply, best wishes and hope that you make that car tip-top again!
@@peterduxbury927 - I think that i've seen some videos on those conversions. They look magnificent. Enjoy your new purchase.
@@peterduxbury927 The Rolls shadow 2 has electronic ignition as standard.
@@clivehaynes2183 Hi Clive, I wanted to say that I was unaware that the Shadow 2 had Electronic Ignition as standard , so thanks for enlightening me! I had watched "Harry's Garage", where he purchased a white RR Shadow 1 from Ebay, and then he drove it to the Arctic Circle. If you havn't seen this, it's a great video, and well worth watching! Harry has trouble with the Contact Breaker Gap (points had closed due to wear), and he had to adjust and reset the gap. I had wrongly assumed that the Shadow 2 was the same set-up.
This may help even though it's on a Rolls Royce Cloud:
ua-cam.com/video/3ih5h1J-AN4/v-deo.html
The carb is overflowing because the jet in the choke is clogged or the choke rod is not right (as explained in the video).The aftermarket pump if it's for carbs [2-5 pressure] (and not fuel injection) will NOT cause the carb to overflow. I have 2 aftermarket pumps on 2 of my Shadows without an overflow. The above video shows the jet in the choke bowl. I am sure that is why the car is not idling correctly. The air/fuel ratio is not right.
This is wonderful video, but it shows a SU HD 8 carb. They are built a bit differently from the HIF 7 - especially regarding the float chambers. Fro me, it was very helpful, thank you!
Thank you. Great referral . I will try this on the weekend
no extinguisher????
At the shop? of course i do!
You need to always put an original SU fuel pump into this car! NEVER use an aftermarket pump!!!!
Thanks, the aftermarket pump was a temp measure. i moved past it and am using the original pump.
Sounds to me like you have flooded it and its choking ,.... Have you set the mixture etc? Also the system should not overflow,... you may have a blockage in the return line somewhere,..... The fuel pump should always supply more fuel than it needs and the excess should bypass and return to the fuel tank. Aussie.
ua-cam.com/video/3ih5h1J-AN4/v-deo.html
Thanks , I got past this stage and it runs now.
You are making a big mistake by putting after market parts into this car which are not designed for this RR.
Always use the correct replacement
Parts if you want this car to run correctly! If not, you will learn the hard way!