Reading through the comments well demonstrates how obsessively we A&P/Avionics Techs can analyze every minute detail of every single maintenance task. Auto mechanics say we are insane. I'm not criticizing-- I do exactly the same thing. I'm thoughtfully considering every comment here and will resolve what I feel is best method for the comm radio and intercom installation in my EAB aircraft. Thank you all.
Most of our heat guns are typically set somewhere between 500-700 degrees. If you get it too hot you'll melt the outer insulation which isn't good, but if it's too low then the inner solder won't melt and flow either. It depends a little bit on the specs of each various solder sleeve mfgr as to the proper temperatures, but if you try one or two you'll quickly find the right setting for the job!
Thanks! I got some of the 22 ga shield terminals with a black trace on a white wire that comes off of the shield that will get an eye terminal that ties to a vacuum tube socket mounting screw. We call it a "DRAIN" not a ground. The original wire needs to be longer so I can swing a pair of caps 180 degrees so those terminals will clear a new bigger more powerful main transformer. Green in that power supply is the 6.3 volt heater wires. Black is DC ground. White with the black stripe is DC chassis ground, but green from the power cord is the safety grounding conductor. I will be running 22 ga mic cable. I just did some RG316 and RG178. They are like miniature RG174 cables. I tease an opening into the braided shield then hook the center conductor insulation and all and VERY carefully pull it through that opening leaving a tail of in tact braided shield wire, with no loose whiskers to short to anything.
I am very anal and totally OCD about my cable work. I will be doing some more 4 lead Kelvin clip test leads soon. Each clip is $80! I bought some Asian made tweezer test leads. The shields are not even connected and two of the center conductors were soldered so hot it destroyed the BNC connectors. I get to redo that too!
AC 21-99 Section 2 Chapter 3 paragraph 23b instructs to comb out braid and fold back over the jacket to prevent braid to wire shorts. Shorts can happen months after solder sleeves were terminated and inspected. I’ve seen it happen.
So very true. Plus the short can cause equipment failure and it may be hard to troubleshoot to the correct wire causing the problem. It could also become an intermittent short which is very hard to troubleshoot. The intermittence would depend on the flex and angle of the cable.
You are very correct and that's a good point! Will try to edit the video to add that in, was mainly just trying to show the basics of these buggers....
Thank you! These videos are definitely driving my business to your web site. Starting to wire wings, including G3X servos, and these vids are really useful. Having to make decisions on how best to terminate connections in wing roots and tips, and how to deal with several wire shields across disconnects.
Great videos Stein. At 1:05 in the video you show a canon plug with the wires neatly secured at the outlet of the plug. What did you add to the connector to make the thin wires sit tightly in the large outlet hole of the connector body? Thanks in advance.
Depending on the Aircraft Co....the shld folds back over the outer insulation, assuring no shorts....also, at the company I worked at, the solder ring should show 75-100% ring melt. This was about 90%...which is acceptable.
I normally fold the shield back over the outer insulation. I'm afraid the hot solder could damage the internal wires and make a short. Maybe just being paranoid.
Garmin states: "The Flat Braid (shield drain) should go out the front of the termination towards the connector. It is not permitted to exit the rear of the termination and loop back towards the connector". Thoughts?
For Garmin wiring specs see Garmin Manual "Shield Block Installation Instructions" part # 190-00313-09. Garmin permits daisy chaining shield drains. Also the install manual for my GNC255A shows the shield drain exiting the rear as an alternate way of doing the shield drain.
im a hobbyist ive never had the ones i buy work so i see avionics use them and got scared ....after watching your vid im buying some from you to get ones i can actually use
I thinj if we use A piece of Teflon tape or heat shrinkable sleve bneith the Strain, the wires will b safe and both the ends almost got same size a more prefect joint.
This is wrong! The shield should be folded back over the outer insulation with the solder sleeve installed clear of the inner wires. If you follow the instructions as presented, you will find that the inner wires will eventually short to ground. Please locate the Reychem PDF file available online for the correct application.
![Crimping OR Solder Sleeves? | Splicing Shielded Cable [FREE LESSON]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BOmo0Vy5DyE/mqdefault.jpg)
Im in the military and Avionics on the F22 these videos are very refreshing!
I just got hired at Lockheed for avionics. Good to know I’m in the right place for learning!
Were you prior military?
Thank you, Sir. I never heard of a solder sleeve until recently when I needed to review an array of cable drawings; this certainly helps. 🙏
Thanks for the video Stein, much appreciated. I've gotten all my materials from you folks and your support via email, phone, and video is top notch.
Reading through the comments well demonstrates how obsessively we A&P/Avionics Techs can analyze every minute detail of every single maintenance task. Auto mechanics say we are insane. I'm not criticizing-- I do exactly the same thing. I'm thoughtfully considering every comment here and will resolve what I feel is best method for the comm radio and intercom installation in my EAB aircraft. Thank you all.
Most of our heat guns are typically set somewhere between 500-700 degrees. If you get it too hot you'll melt the outer insulation which isn't good, but if it's too low then the inner solder won't melt and flow either. It depends a little bit on the specs of each various solder sleeve mfgr as to the proper temperatures, but if you try one or two you'll quickly find the right setting for the job!
Try a IR heat gun.
Thanks! I got some of the 22 ga shield terminals with a black trace on a white wire that comes off of the shield that will get an eye terminal that ties to a vacuum tube socket mounting screw. We call it a "DRAIN" not a ground. The original wire needs to be longer so I can swing a pair of caps 180 degrees so those terminals will clear a new bigger more powerful main transformer. Green in that power supply is the 6.3 volt heater wires. Black is DC ground. White with the black stripe is DC chassis ground, but green from the power cord is the safety grounding conductor. I will be running 22 ga mic cable. I just did some RG316 and RG178. They are like miniature RG174 cables. I tease an opening into the braided shield then hook the center conductor insulation and all and VERY carefully pull it through that opening leaving a tail of in tact braided shield wire, with no loose whiskers to short to anything.
I am very anal and totally OCD about my cable work. I will be doing some more 4 lead Kelvin clip test leads soon. Each clip is $80! I bought some Asian made tweezer test leads. The shields are not even connected and two of the center conductors were soldered so hot it destroyed the BNC connectors. I get to redo that too!
AC 21-99 Section 2 Chapter 3 paragraph 23b instructs to comb out braid and fold back over the jacket to prevent braid to wire shorts. Shorts can happen months after solder sleeves were terminated and inspected. I’ve seen it happen.
So very true. Plus the short can cause equipment failure and it may be hard to troubleshoot to the correct wire causing the problem. It could also become an intermittent short which is very hard to troubleshoot. The intermittence would depend on the flex and angle of the cable.
You are very correct and that's a good point! Will try to edit the video to add that in, was mainly just trying to show the basics of these buggers....
www.casa.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-09/advisory-circular-21-99-aircraft-wiring-bonding.pdf
I don’t see this AC listed any longer at the FAA Advisory Circular web site. Any idea where to find a PDF online?
I absolutely love solder sleeves. They are well worth the money!
Thank you! These videos are definitely driving my business to your web site. Starting to wire wings, including G3X servos, and these vids are really useful. Having to make decisions on how best to terminate connections in wing roots and tips, and how to deal with several wire shields across disconnects.
Defiantly its very usrfull vedio plsss keep about splice connection
Great videos Stein. At 1:05 in the video you show a canon plug with the wires neatly secured at the outlet of the plug. What did you add to the connector to make the thin wires sit tightly in the large outlet hole of the connector body? Thanks in advance.
I am also curious about the plug connector on the end of the wire.....What type (part number) of connector do you use?
Depending on the Aircraft Co....the shld folds back over the outer insulation, assuring no shorts....also, at the company I worked at, the solder ring should show 75-100% ring melt. This was about 90%...which is acceptable.
I normally fold the shield back over the outer insulation. I'm afraid the hot solder could damage the internal wires and make a short. Maybe just being paranoid.
You are absolutely correct - that step was missed in the video and we will work to add it as that is industry standard/normal practice!
Nice, these would also be perfect for automotive repairs
Garmin states: "The Flat Braid (shield drain) should go out the front of the termination
towards the connector. It is not permitted to exit the rear of the termination and loop back towards
the connector". Thoughts?
For Garmin wiring specs see Garmin Manual "Shield Block Installation Instructions" part # 190-00313-09. Garmin permits daisy chaining shield drains. Also the install manual for my GNC255A shows the shield drain exiting the rear as an alternate way of doing the shield drain.
im a hobbyist ive never had the ones i buy work so i see avionics use them and got scared ....after watching your vid im buying some from you to get ones i can actually use
These don't require any flux or pre-tinning, of either the grounding wire or the shielding? Looks awesome either way though.
What is that black wire tie thing holding the wires together?
Cable lacing. Good instructional video on using it here: ua-cam.com/video/t48x7Qrd50c/v-deo.html
I thinj if we use A piece of Teflon tape or heat shrinkable sleve bneith the Strain, the wires will b safe and both the ends almost got same size a more prefect joint.
Great videos! What is the used temperature for the heat gun?
700F
This is wrong! The shield should be folded back over the outer insulation with the solder sleeve installed clear of the inner wires. If you follow the instructions as presented, you will find that the inner wires will eventually short to ground. Please locate the Reychem PDF file available online for the correct application.
Boeing uses this method on every plane they fly...... along with the pull through method which isn't shown here.
They use a reflector on the heat gun. I know because I have trained them. Soldersleeves should never be done without a reflector.
all aircraft wirring in the world use tthis method, different aplicable for electrical wiring or automotive wirring.
That is exactly how we do it for subsea jumper cables. We also use a reflector. We set the heatgun to 350 degrees.
bad audio