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You are using the wrong value capacitors on the crystal, 22pf are for a crystal with an aprox 10pf load capacitance. The crystal linked to in the parts list has a load capacitance of 20pf that requires 36pf capacitors.
At 8:22 min. into the video, it would be a good idea to mention that the short lead of the LED goes to ground. Sometimes it's hard to see the flat side.
Hi JSchuler99. Yes you can use batteries for power. You could use a 9V cell although the 7805 linear regulator used here is not the most efficient device and will drain it pretty quickly. Using six AA batteries wired in series will give you longer run time.
I know that this video quite old and you probably won't see this comment, but if you do, i just want you to know, that youre videos are awsome. I first saw your videos, becouse i thought, i want to make some stupid musik and build a midi drum. After a while i came across your channel and thougt,well if i do this, i might as well take it a step further and make a whole controller with everything i could ever need. And i dont know how, but your channel has every piece of information i need, to do what i want. But the problem is, that you have so many cool things on your channel and now im here, instead of buidling a simple midi drum with 5 piezo microphones and an arduino, i am now going to build my own arudino and many other things, that would not have come to my mind in any way, if your chanel did not exist. Even though i now have to do soooo much more, i still love your work.
Man, I really love your videos. This one, in particular, is great. You are very calm and clear and it is very pleasant to see you and listen to you while you work. I'm learning electronics and I have great curiosity on how is that the whole system you just made works. I'm mostly curious about the function of the diode in the 3rd row and the crystal. Can you, or anyone reading, explain it to me in a simple way, or, point me to a resource where I can learn it? If not, it's still very cool. Thank you!
Hi Diwakar. You should burn the bootloader before you use the chip for the first time just to make sure the fuses are set correctly to run Arduino code. Check out the second part of this tutorial called 'Arduino as ISP'. The Part about bootloaders is at 3:58.
really great videos they're easy to follow and very informative, just wanted to add something i saw someone else do which seams like a good thing. that is, when you place the chip on the board, place it at row 11 then the pins correspond with numbers on the board making it a little easier to count the pins. thanks for all the videos , keep up the great work
+Notes and Volts hey any chance you can do a video taking the midi circuit you did and make it go thru the usb on the arduino, for all of us who don't have midi ports
Thanks for your prompt reply. You are right of course! Thank you for these videos, they are very well put together and extremly helpful, to me as I come to terms with this great little device.
Hi Eric. You should be able to but first you need to download ATTINY support files and add them to the Arduino IDE. Plug in the wires to the corresponding MOSI, MISO, SCK and RESET pins on the Tiny. You will also need to modify your program to support the chip.
You don't really need the rectifier or regulator. Just find any old cell phone wall charger, split open an old usb cable and there's your 5 volts. Most supply .5-1amp which is plenty for pretty much any ATMEGA328 based project.
Hi TBP. You are correct that you can use a 'Switching' 5V supply directly with this. I included the regulator to protect against non-switching regulators or incorrect voltage units. I like to design things to be as "User proof" as possible.
OMG...thank you so much! I have spent hours trying to get this ATmega328p chip programmed. This video and the one to make the breadboard construction permanent were lifesavers! Thank you! Your videos are always so easy to understand/follow and I greatly appreciate that. How would you program an ATmega644p with Arduino as ISP? The breadboard circuit would obviously need to change but could you do it the same way?
Could you clarify why there is a capacitor, then regulator then capacitor again? Correct me if I'm wrong, I believe the first capacitor smoothed out any ac trends from the rectifier in the power supply. The voltage regulator assures a constant 5V output. This is odd since the power supply indicates 7V output. Lastly what is the last capacitor used for? thank you
Hi thanks for the tutorial, Do you know if this also works if you use a power supply and put 5Volts directly on the circuit instead of using those capacitors and voltage regulator and diode (so the circuit till 3:13 )? Thanks in advance
+stef kak Hi Stef. That will work if you make sure that the power supply you use actually puts out 5 volts. Many power adapters labeled as 5 volts are not regulated and will actually output a higher voltage that could damage your circuit. Switch Mode type adapters are your best bet.
Searching for a finished pcb version of the same (or similar) result without having to tie pads together with solder and wire on a plain experiment board or using one of those that mimic the traces on a breadboard. Anybody seen one?
Hello sir, I have a question about this project, which of the ATMEGA 328P pins can be used as I/O? which ones are analog/digital? So basically which ones relate to what Arduino pins? Thank you very much!
I'm wondering, if this circuit is powered by two 3v coin cell batteries totaling 6v, is the regulator still required? There are basic DIY arduino kits on amazon, but they do not include the regulator components. Plus, in terms or ordering PCB and assembly it would be nice to remove steps and reduce footprint.
Hi! GREAT videos, both this and the next! I have one question: I have to connect the board to my bike's battery that provides 12V, do I have to make any change to this setup? Does this voltage regulator work with 12V or is it too high? Thank you!
Hi Daedalus. The 7805 should be able to handle 12v as long as your current requirements aren't too large. And since the 7805 will be converting the extra input voltage to heat, you will need a heat-sink as well. If money is no concern, google TSR12450 for a more efficient part. Good luck!
David Bennett thank you very much for your reply! unfortunately that component's cost is too high for a simple project as mine is, can you explain me what should I look for in a voltage regulator to evaluate its quality (in terms of overheating), so I don't have to stress other people? =) one last thing: I'm new to electronics, and I didn't understand the function of those 2 capacitors, on your site you say "The 10uF and 100uF smooth out any ripples in the 5 volt supply", ok, but why are they 2, separated (one links + and -, and the other connects 2 pins of the regulator) and why 10 and 100? Thank you for your time!
Daedalus1632 Don't get me wrong, the 7805 will most likely work for you. First figure out how much current your project will need. The 7805 is rated for 1 amp but will require a heat sink when drawing more than 150mA (0.15A). The caps are placed on either side on the regulator. The one on the input side smooths out ripples from the incoming voltage. The one on the output provides some help when the load suddenly requires more power. Don't worry about the values right now. There is some complex math involved that you can pick up as you get more experience. Just use these ballpark values and have fun!
Notes and Volts Thank you again! Just one last thing: so the regulator will heat proportionally to the current that is drawn? Voltage does not count? Thanks
Daedalus1632 It is actually based on the Wattage which is a combination of Voltage and current. If my memory is correct, the Watts dissipated by the device is calculated by (Voltage in - 5v) * Current. So if your circuit uses 100mA it would be (12v - 5v) * 0.1A = 0.7 Watts. I think the 7805 heats up at a rate of 65 C per Watt.
Hi, nice tutorial. Was wondering though about the USB connection issue. I've noticed none of the other youtube DIY Arduino breadboard projects includes way to communicate with it or program it directly. So I'm assuming it's not as simple as connecting up the ATMega16U2 (or 8U2)chip to the breadboard. I'm aware of the other options to do this by jumping an actual Arduino board to the breadboard Arduino, or pruchasing the USB-2-Serial breakout board options, but nothing that would make it a complete Arduino Uno on a breadboard. Thanks!
Hi Mark. Thanks for the comment. To make a true arduino on a breadboard you would need to add a USB to Serial device and also have the bootloader code installed on the ATMega. The purpose of this exercise is to make a stand alone version of an arduino project that will run your program. The next video in the tutorial shows how to use an arduino board as a programmer. The schematic on my website also includes a ISP Socket so that you could use a programmer such as the USBTinyISP.
Do we need to do it with the exact same parts? Or can we buy for example a different diode, that's compatible with the circuit's voltage and intensity?
I tried with a 1n4004 diode instead of the 1n4001 and the circuit didn't work. If it is simply the diode you want to swap out just don't use one and make sure you're current is set up the right way
i want to try this, ive got the atmega328p and most of the other stuff but SOME things I dont have :( i've got 2 arduinos, one of them is genuine one of them is an elegoo that i can harvest the cip from but i cant make one :(
Hey, I really like this video, but I had a question: What if i want to program a board other than the 328? In my case I want to use the ATTINY88-PU, will this still work?
Hi I would like to use the atmega32u4 chip as it already includes USB controller , my question is which pins of atmega32u4 I need to connect to the micro usb port
***** Hi nfs. That's a whole different topic. Here is a link I found that shows the connections for that. www.build-electronic-circuits.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/32U4_Breakout-v11.pdf
gabo natchi Hi Gabo. The cap voltage rating just needs to be higher than the maximum voltage of the circuit. To be safe I usually go with double the circuit voltage. I used 25V caps for my circuit.
Hi Choppergirl. I assure you that this isn't a cult. I'm just a simple guy trying to amass a legion of followers who will listen to my every word and take it as fact without question!!! Muahaha!!!
Hey there, these are great videos! just a question: I've seen several circuits/projects using the LM7805 without the 1N4001 diode. Is it really necessary? Thanks in advance.
Hi Jonatan. The diode protects the circuit from a power supply with the wrong polarity. It will function without it, but in my opinion it is worth adding.
Hi there thanks for the video. One question regarding the LED, you connect to pin 19 of the chip...does that relate to pin 13 of Arduino? I mean, in the sketch, do you still set pin 13 as LED Output? Or change the sketch to set pin 19 as LED output? Cheers.
Thanks! I just wasn't sure. I'm starting to learn electronics again so I still have a lot to learn. Only took a beginner electronics class offered in high school that mostly went over electronics safety and basic principles using resistors only.
+HalfLife2Beta Give it a try. 22 pf is the suggested value for this crystal but caps in the range of 18pf to 33pf should be ok. If the 22pf isn't working there may be another problem though.
yeah the whole set up is not working Also I wonder can I use wires from the pins 5V and GND arduino uno powered from USB line to supply a standalone ATmega ? when I put the atmega328 on the arduino uno platform it blinks the led but when i do the set up as I described it doesnt light it (tried reversing the led leads and still nothing). So I really don't know why it doesnt work
@@NotesAndVolts 36pf is the capacitor value for the crystal linked to in the parts list (20pf load capacitance). The formula is C1=C2= 2x (load capacitance - parasitic capacitance), parasitic capacitance will be between 2 and 5 pf. 20 - 2 =18 times 2 to give 36
George Wilson Hi George. The suggested values for the crystal caps is between 18pf and 22pf. You might get away with 33pf but if your clock starts acting up, you know where to look. No harm in trying it.
Hi Shubham. I haven't tried this myself, but I know people have run Arduino based projects at different clock frequencies. You may need to look in to changing the Makefile for the new frequency. Also, some libraries that use timing may get messed up. Let me know how you make out.
+Notes and Volts I hooked my multimeter up to the power supply, and it’s reading a constant 5.19V. I’ve heard that the Arduino can handle up to 5.5V. Is this a reliable measurement of whether the voltage is regulated?
It sounds regulated but I can't say for sure. Unregulated usually reads much higher without a load. This article has some good info: www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/103
Pin 1 to 5v through a 10k resistor is to deactivate the reset pin in the ATMEGA328 which is active-low. Pin 7 is the positive supply to the ATMEGA328 so it can function properly. Pin 20 is the supply voltage pin for the A/D Converter. Pin 21is the analog reference pin for the A/D converted so they all need to be connected to +5V. You can find all of the pins' signification in the pinout diagram: arduino-info.wikispaces.com/file/view/ATMEGA328-900.jpg/421493080/ATMEGA328-900.jpg and in the atmega328 datasheet: www.atmel.com/Images/Atmel-8271-8-bit-AVR-Microcontroller-ATmega48A-48PA-88A-88PA-168A-168PA-328-328P_datasheet_Summary.pdf
+Ben Adam so if I use this regulated supply for powering other 5V devices in this very configuration( with 10k resistor connected ) everything works fine?
can i connect NRF 24l01+transiever module to this circuit and along with that ps2 controller to this . So that I can send data wirelessly . And will this code will work on this type of circuit ? www.dropbox.com/sh/m2hcasokkwwhfa4/AAD824jkdanuzkTBDNscfrYRa?dl=0
Adam Yarris Cool! It's nice to be able to make your own Arduino circuit so when you build something interesting, you can build this minimal version and stick it in a box. Much better than sacrificing your Arduino.
Sons_of_Liberty Possibly. But if you ever plan to produce your circuit in quantity or perhaps on a custom PCB, you wouldn't want to have a 'Nano" on your bill of materials.
![ПЕРВАЯ СХЕМА НА АРДУИНО [Уроки Arduino #4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3OKOLiOHnVM/mqdefault.jpg)
You are using the wrong value capacitors on the crystal, 22pf are for a crystal with an aprox 10pf load capacitance. The crystal linked to in the parts list has a load capacitance of 20pf that requires 36pf capacitors.
Short, sweet, simple. Only a dozen TH parts. Great beginner tutorial. Thanks!
Thanks. This is the best video on UA-cam on any topic.
At 8:22 min. into the video, it would be a good idea to mention that the short lead of the LED goes to ground.
Sometimes it's hard to see the flat side.
Hi JSchuler99. Yes you can use batteries for power. You could use a 9V cell although the 7805 linear regulator used here is not the most efficient device and will drain it pretty quickly. Using six AA batteries wired in series will give you longer run time.
I know that this video quite old and you probably won't see this comment, but if you do, i just want you to know, that youre videos are awsome.
I first saw your videos, becouse i thought, i want to make some stupid musik and build a midi drum. After a while i came across your channel and thougt,well if i do this, i might as well take it a step further and make a whole controller with everything i could ever need. And i dont know how, but your channel has every piece of information i need, to do what i want. But the problem is, that you have so many cool things on your channel and now im here, instead of buidling a simple midi drum with 5 piezo microphones and an arduino, i am now going to build my own arudino and many other things, that would not have come to my mind in any way, if your chanel did not exist.
Even though i now have to do soooo much more, i still love your work.
Man, I really love your videos. This one, in particular, is great. You are very calm and clear and it is very pleasant to see you and listen to you while you work.
I'm learning electronics and I have great curiosity on how is that the whole system you just made works.
I'm mostly curious about the function of the diode in the 3rd row and the crystal. Can you, or anyone reading, explain it to me in a simple way, or, point me to a resource where I can learn it?
If not, it's still very cool.
Thank you!
Hi JS
No, you will need to use electrolytic (polarized) caps where indicated.
Best tutorial on youtube on this and easy to follow along :)
Wow, thanks!
Hi Diwakar. You should burn the bootloader before you use the chip for the first time just to make sure the fuses are set correctly to run Arduino code. Check out the second part of this tutorial called 'Arduino as ISP'. The Part about bootloaders is at 3:58.
really great videos they're easy to follow and very informative, just wanted to add something i saw someone else do which seams like a good thing. that is, when you place the chip on the board, place it at row 11 then the pins correspond with numbers on the board making it a little easier to count the pins. thanks for all the videos , keep up the great work
+sean wirth Thanks Sean! That's a good idea
+Notes and Volts hey any chance you can do a video taking the midi circuit you did and make it go thru the usb on the arduino, for all of us who don't have midi ports
sean wirth I have that on my list but will use a different platform than the UNO. Other devices are much better at USB Midi.
+Notes and Volts kool, can't wait
Thanks for your prompt reply. You are right of course!
Thank you for these videos, they are very well put together and extremly helpful, to me as I come to terms with this great little device.
Hi Eric. You should be able to but first you need to download ATTINY support files and add them to the Arduino IDE. Plug in the wires to the corresponding MOSI, MISO, SCK and RESET pins on the Tiny. You will also need to modify your program to support the chip.
Excellent and clear tutorial.
Thanks for the help and the quick reply.
You don't really need the rectifier or regulator. Just find any old cell phone wall charger, split open an old usb cable and there's your 5 volts. Most supply .5-1amp which is plenty for pretty much any ATMEGA328 based project.
Hi TBP. You are correct that you can use a 'Switching' 5V supply directly with this. I included the regulator to protect against non-switching regulators or incorrect voltage units. I like to design things to be as "User proof" as possible.
OMG...thank you so much! I have spent hours trying to get this ATmega328p chip programmed. This video and the one to make the breadboard construction permanent were lifesavers! Thank you! Your videos are always so easy to understand/follow and I greatly appreciate that. How would you program an ATmega644p with Arduino as ISP? The breadboard circuit would obviously need to change but could you do it the same way?
Thanks for the video, it's really helpfull. My LED does blinking, exactly how it's was in video. I hope you will continue do video. Success
+MultiSodium Awesome!
3:36 my multimeter shows different amounts of power and on the diode side high and the capacitor side low.
Could you clarify why there is a capacitor, then regulator then capacitor again? Correct me if I'm wrong, I believe the first capacitor smoothed out any ac trends from the rectifier in the power supply. The voltage regulator assures a constant 5V output. This is odd since the power supply indicates 7V output. Lastly what is the last capacitor used for? thank you
Great ! Simple and well done !
Thanks Johann!
Great video. What if you wanted to power the chip with batteries?
pin 1 and +5v resister value is 10k 0r 1k
Hi Ebin. This is the standard Arduino IDE software. You can download it for free at arduino.cc
Hi thanks for the tutorial,
Do you know if this also works if you use a power supply and put 5Volts directly on the circuit instead of using those capacitors and voltage regulator and diode (so the circuit till 3:13 )?
Thanks in advance
+stef kak Hi Stef. That will work if you make sure that the power supply you use actually puts out 5 volts. Many power adapters labeled as 5 volts are not regulated and will actually output a higher voltage that could damage your circuit. Switch Mode type adapters are your best bet.
+Notes and Volts okay thanks!
but you used a lot of micro-controller pins, how many pins are remain to use it as digital input/output and how yo increase them ?
sir how to connect crystal lcd 12x12 to thos circuit
Searching for a finished pcb version of the same (or similar) result without having to tie pads together with solder and wire on a plain experiment board or using one of those that mimic the traces on a breadboard. Anybody seen one?
Hello! Congrats for the video! Please, I have a doubt: Does this jack connector is 2,1 mm or 2,5mm?
Thank u!
hey man, can I use ATMEGA328 instead off ATMEGA328P?
Hello sir, I have a question about this project, which of the ATMEGA 328P pins can be used as I/O? which ones are analog/digital? So basically which ones relate to what Arduino pins? Thank you very much!
does the atmega 328 needs to be preprogrammed with the arduino bootloader or we can directly use the 328 just bought
Interesting, but would be more useful if a schematic was drawn, then referenced during the build...
I'm wondering, if this circuit is powered by two 3v coin cell batteries totaling 6v, is the regulator still required?
There are basic DIY arduino kits on amazon, but they do not include the regulator components. Plus, in terms or ordering PCB and assembly it would be nice to remove steps and reduce footprint.
Hi! GREAT videos, both this and the next!
I have one question: I have to connect the board to my bike's battery that provides 12V, do I have to make any change to this setup? Does this voltage regulator work with 12V or is it too high? Thank you!
Hi Daedalus. The 7805 should be able to handle 12v as long as your current requirements aren't too large. And since the 7805 will be converting the extra input voltage to heat, you will need a heat-sink as well. If money is no concern, google TSR12450 for a more efficient part. Good luck!
David Bennett thank you very much for your reply! unfortunately that component's cost is too high for a simple project as mine is, can you explain me what should I look for in a voltage regulator to evaluate its quality (in terms of overheating), so I don't have to stress other people? =)
one last thing: I'm new to electronics, and I didn't understand the function of those 2 capacitors, on your site you say "The 10uF and 100uF smooth out any ripples in the 5 volt supply", ok, but why are they 2, separated (one links + and -, and the other connects 2 pins of the regulator) and why 10 and 100?
Thank you for your time!
Daedalus1632
Don't get me wrong, the 7805 will most likely work for you. First figure out how much current your project will need. The 7805 is rated for 1 amp but will require a heat sink when drawing more than 150mA (0.15A).
The caps are placed on either side on the regulator. The one on the input side smooths out ripples from the incoming voltage. The one on the output provides some help when the load suddenly requires more power. Don't worry about the values right now. There is some complex math involved that you can pick up as you get more experience. Just use these ballpark values and have fun!
Notes and Volts Thank you again!
Just one last thing: so the regulator will heat proportionally to the current that is drawn? Voltage does not count?
Thanks
Daedalus1632 It is actually based on the Wattage which is a combination of Voltage and current. If my memory is correct, the Watts dissipated by the device is calculated by (Voltage in - 5v) * Current. So if your circuit uses 100mA it would be (12v - 5v) * 0.1A = 0.7 Watts. I think the 7805 heats up at a rate of 65 C per Watt.
How did you load the program.. can you put in a blank chip on your arduino, program it and then use it on another board?
srry I'm new to all this =)
+Lucas Etchenique Hi Lucas. Check out my video called Arduino as ISP for details on loading the program: ua-cam.com/video/muP1dp73Mdg/v-deo.html
Why ISP socket is added in the circuit diagram? What is it's function? For power supply of the microcontroller, do I need it?
Hi Mashuk. No you don't need a physical socket. It is just to show the programming connections in the schematic.
Hi, nice tutorial. Was wondering though about the USB connection issue. I've noticed none of the other youtube DIY Arduino breadboard projects includes way to communicate with it or program it directly. So I'm assuming it's not as simple as connecting up the ATMega16U2 (or 8U2)chip to the breadboard. I'm aware of the other options to do this by jumping an actual Arduino board to the breadboard Arduino, or pruchasing the USB-2-Serial breakout board options, but nothing that would make it a complete Arduino Uno on a breadboard. Thanks!
Hi Mark. Thanks for the comment. To make a true arduino on a breadboard you would need to add a USB to Serial device and also have the bootloader code installed on the ATMega. The purpose of this exercise is to make a stand alone version of an arduino project that will run your program. The next video in the tutorial shows how to use an arduino board as a programmer. The schematic on my website also includes a ISP Socket so that you could use a programmer such as the USBTinyISP.
Do we need to do it with the exact same parts? Or can we buy for example a different diode, that's compatible with the circuit's voltage and intensity?
I tried with a 1n4004 diode instead of the 1n4001 and the circuit didn't work. If it is simply the diode you want to swap out just don't use one and make sure you're current is set up the right way
I have non polarized capacitors. Will they still work?
Really appreciate the response, where would i find the support files? And how will the program need to be modified?
i want to try this, ive got the atmega328p and most of the other stuff but SOME things I dont have :(
i've got 2 arduinos, one of them is genuine one of them is an elegoo that i can harvest the cip from but i cant make one :(
Please write down the material requirements of the project
do i need the arduino uno ant the ATmega328 for this?
Hey, I really like this video, but I had a question: What if i want to program a board other than the 328? In my case I want to use the ATTINY88-PU, will this still work?
background sound was made with sequencer of arp 2700? kkkkkkk i know this presets
LoL!
Could this run on 12v?
can I use 150 microfarad instead of 100 microfarad
Hi
I would like to use the atmega32u4 chip as it already includes USB controller , my question is which pins of atmega32u4 I need to connect to the micro usb port
***** Hi nfs. That's a whole different topic. Here is a link I found that shows the connections for that. www.build-electronic-circuits.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/32U4_Breakout-v11.pdf
Hi! Does the voltage of 10uf and 100uf capacitors doesn't matter? What's the capacitors voltage did you use?
gabo natchi Hi Gabo. The cap voltage rating just needs to be higher than the maximum voltage of the circuit. To be safe I usually go with double the circuit voltage. I used 25V caps for my circuit.
10:00 - "I know you can't see what's going on, but you'll have to take my word for it." No, sir, I won't!
That's how religions and cults get started!
Hi Choppergirl. I assure you that this isn't a cult. I'm just a simple guy trying to amass a legion of followers who will listen to my every word and take it as fact without question!!! Muahaha!!!
@Peter Pumkin pennis also cocc n balse
Hey there, these are great videos! just a question: I've seen several circuits/projects using the LM7805 without the 1N4001 diode. Is it really necessary?
Thanks in advance.
Hi Jonatan. The diode protects the circuit from a power supply with the wrong polarity. It will function without it, but in my opinion it is worth adding.
Thanks for replying! Would a 1N4007 diode be the same in this case? couldn't find a 1N4001. Cheers!
Yes, the 4007 should work. It is a higher voltage version of the 4001.
Hi there thanks for the video. One question regarding the LED, you connect to pin 19 of the chip...does that relate to pin 13 of Arduino? I mean, in the sketch, do you still set pin 13 as LED Output? Or change the sketch to set pin 19 as LED output? Cheers.
BooktownBoy Hi BTB. Use the Arduino numbers and set it to 13 as usual.
What are these
HI SIR, its a great video ..!!!!
what software is used to program this arduino... from where i can get it?
Arduino IDE
Does the 22pF capacitors need to be polarized? or would non-polarized ceramic capacitor work?
Hi Dom. Definitely DON'T use polarized caps for this. Ceramic 22pF caps are fine.
Thanks! I just wasn't sure. I'm starting to learn electronics again so I still have a lot to learn. Only took a beginner electronics class offered in high school that mostly went over electronics safety and basic principles using resistors only.
Hi, Really great video. How do I upload code to the ATmega chip? thanks.
Never mind I watched your ISP video
question can we use 18 pF capacitors instead of 22/20 pF? Thanks in advance (for me it doesnt work)
+HalfLife2Beta Give it a try. 22 pf is the suggested value for this crystal but caps in the range of 18pf to 33pf should be ok. If the 22pf isn't working there may be another problem though.
yeah the whole set up is not working
Also I wonder can I use wires from the pins 5V and GND arduino uno powered from USB line to supply a standalone ATmega ? when I put the atmega328 on the arduino uno platform it blinks the led but when i do the set up as I described it doesnt light it (tried reversing the led leads and still nothing). So I really don't know why it doesnt work
@@NotesAndVolts 36pf is the capacitor value for the crystal linked to in the parts list (20pf load capacitance). The formula is C1=C2= 2x (load capacitance - parasitic capacitance), parasitic capacitance will be between 2 and 5 pf. 20 - 2 =18 times 2 to give 36
hi! can I use a 33pf capacitor instead of 22pf because I don't have one.
George Wilson Hi George. The suggested values for the crystal caps is between 18pf and 22pf. You might get away with 33pf but if your clock starts acting up, you know where to look. No harm in trying it.
OK sir,thanks for the information.
could I use 12 pF capacitors for the crystal?
Hi Fort. Timing circuits can be a bit sensitive to component changes so you may have some troubles. I don't know for sure without trying it.
Can we use crystall of 12 Mhz in place of 16MHz..?
Hi Shubham. I haven't tried this myself, but I know people have run Arduino based projects at different clock frequencies. You may need to look in to changing the Makefile for the new frequency. Also, some libraries that use timing may get messed up. Let me know how you make out.
It's ok, I've found my answer. Google is our friend.
You said this was the minimum set-up to run this chip. Does that mean some functions will not work?
+Dylan Moro Hi Dylan. All Arduino functions should work with this setup.
18 to 30pf range could work. If not it won't damage the chip, It just won't fire up.
***** 18 to 30pf range could work. If not it won't damage the chip, It just won't fire up.
***** I don't think so.
If I am using a 5V 3A power adapter to power my project, do I need the voltage regulator or can I just connect the chip directly to 5v and ground?
Hi Aarush. It's possible if the adaptor has a regulated 5v output. Be careful! A lot of adaptors are not regulated.
+Notes and Volts I hooked my multimeter up to the power supply, and it’s reading a constant 5.19V. I’ve heard that the Arduino can handle up to 5.5V. Is this a reliable measurement of whether the voltage is regulated?
It sounds regulated but I can't say for sure. Unregulated usually reads much higher without a load. This article has some good info: www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/103
+Notes and Volts Thank you for all the help and the amazing tutorial!
my circuit can't work but i don't know why
Pin 1 to 5V connects pin 1,7,21,20 to 5v through a 10k resistor. Why is it so?
Pin 1 to 5v through a 10k resistor is to deactivate the reset pin in the ATMEGA328 which is active-low. Pin 7 is the positive supply to the ATMEGA328 so it can function properly. Pin 20 is the supply voltage pin for the A/D Converter. Pin 21is the analog reference pin for the A/D converted so they all need to be connected to +5V. You can find all of the pins' signification in the pinout diagram: arduino-info.wikispaces.com/file/view/ATMEGA328-900.jpg/421493080/ATMEGA328-900.jpg and in the atmega328 datasheet: www.atmel.com/Images/Atmel-8271-8-bit-AVR-Microcontroller-ATmega48A-48PA-88A-88PA-168A-168PA-328-328P_datasheet_Summary.pdf
+Ben Adam so if I use this regulated supply for powering other 5V devices in this very configuration( with 10k resistor connected ) everything works fine?
What do you mean by "other 5V devices"?
5v devices like other modules viz. bluetooth, sensors etc.
Not necessarily, you should always check the datasheet of the module you're using, and maybe look for specific tutorials for it.
can i connect NRF 24l01+transiever module to this circuit and along with that ps2 controller to this . So that I can send data wirelessly .
And will this code will work on this type of circuit ?
www.dropbox.com/sh/m2hcasokkwwhfa4/AAD824jkdanuzkTBDNscfrYRa?dl=0
how much does this cost by any chance?
Hi Adam. The total should be under $10 US not including the power adapter and breadboard.
thanks for responding so quickly, i think i'll make one since its cheaper than an arduino (minus some features though)
Adam Yarris Cool! It's nice to be able to make your own Arduino circuit so when you build something interesting, you can build this minimal version and stick it in a box. Much better than sacrificing your Arduino.
yah, definitely
Sons_of_Liberty Possibly. But if you ever plan to produce your circuit in quantity or perhaps on a custom PCB, you wouldn't want to have a 'Nano" on your bill of materials.
Can i do it with Arduino Uno ?
Hi Tony. This project is Uno compatible.
If you want to build this on a PCB board, check out my tutorial !
Hi Andrew. Google 'Atmega328P pinout'. You'll find the answers you seek.