I have a 1936 ford 5 window coupe. I just found your channel and am excited to watch. I have a lot of work to do on my car. Your videos are very helpful. I have a lot of literature on my car and have learned a lot. Its nice to watch someone working on the same thing. Thanks for making the videos. Doing good work. Liking and subscribed 👍
rusty ive done 2 36s and 1 37 the steady rods to the flathead help with vibration they may work with 8ba and a 37 steering box is a much better ratio than a 36 like your vids
What color did you use for the engine block? Is it to Ford green? And did you use like a heat paint? I really like that color almost looks like the original out of the manufacture.
I have a 1938 Hillman Minx Roadster-I’m doing the same conversion, supposedly some early 30s ford parts fit. The issue I’m having is my l wheels are 3 lug & my hubs are 8”- I’m not a mechanic but I think I can do this.
My 36 truck is wide 5. 37 front spindles and drums. Different than 36 spindles and 36 drums. I have an excellent pare of 36 wide 5s .030 where is someone needs them. 39 to 41 backing plates. Single port master cyl 40 style. It will skid tires np.
nice work , but i don't think i would use copper lines for the brake system, that material is to soft for hydraulik pressure or ? just a thought , hmmmm . . . maaybe
I would recommend you determine the diff gear ratio while you are at this point. The old Fords came with very low ratio ratios because there were very few roads where one would drive at 60 miles per hour. Since I'm assuming you are not doing a HotRod where installing 750 - 775 rear tires which would help with that low gear ratio in the diff. I enjoy your videos.
@@jonathanwood1984 I'm in the process now of prepping my '35 coupe for juice brakes. I've ordered a complete kit (because I'm lazy) from a supplier but, they are a small shop and it's been almost 8 months - I hope to get the kit soon. Tonight I was removing the peddles and came back to check out this video but, you were in fast forward mode for that part of the job but, I still got the basic drift so, tomorrow I'll work on getting the peddles removed. Cheers!
I’m sorry it’s an issue for you but it could be your device. The background audio is very low and definitely does not override the vocals on all of the devices that I’ve used.
A lot of work, but you are doing a good job of fabricating all new stuff. Not easy! Keep up the good work!
Thank you
Great background music and great editing showcasing your wonderful work. Subscribed. Thank you!
I have a 1936 ford 5 window coupe. I just found your channel and am excited to watch. I have a lot of work to do on my car. Your videos are very helpful. I have a lot of literature on my car and have learned a lot. Its nice to watch someone working on the same thing. Thanks for making the videos. Doing good work. Liking and subscribed 👍
Thank you! Happy to help in any way that I can! I’m just figuring this one out as I go since it’s my first early Ford & Flathead.
Man everything is looking so clean!
Appreciate it
good work !
Appreciate it
rusty ive done 2 36s and 1 37 the steady rods to the flathead help with vibration they may work with 8ba and a 37 steering box is a much better ratio than a 36 like your vids
What color did you use for the engine block? Is it to Ford green? And did you use like a heat paint? I really like that color almost looks like the original out of the manufacture.
Thanks. It’s Duplicolor - DE1644 Racing Green
I have a 1938 Hillman Minx Roadster-I’m doing the same conversion, supposedly some early 30s ford parts fit. The issue I’m having is my l wheels are 3 lug & my hubs are 8”- I’m not a mechanic but I think I can do this.
You got this. Look for Facebook groups to join. Lots of old school knowledge out there that’s been invaluable to me.
My 36 truck is wide 5. 37 front spindles and drums. Different than 36 spindles and 36 drums. I have an excellent pare of 36 wide 5s .030 where is someone needs them. 39 to 41 backing plates. Single port master cyl 40 style. It will skid tires np.
Why call it a restoration? It's more of a revival or restomod. It's looking great!
nice work , but i don't think i would use copper lines for the brake system, that material is to soft for hydraulik pressure or ? just a thought , hmmmm . . . maaybe
It’s nocip brake line. Not solid copper 👍
I would recommend you determine the diff gear ratio while you are at this point. The old Fords came with very low ratio ratios because there were very few roads where one would drive at 60 miles per hour. Since I'm assuming you are not doing a HotRod where installing 750 - 775 rear tires which would help with that low gear ratio in the diff. I enjoy your videos.
Thank you. I am actually running 750s in the rear
@@jonathanwood1984 I'm in the process now of prepping my '35 coupe for juice brakes. I've ordered a complete kit (because I'm lazy) from a supplier but, they are a small shop and it's been almost 8 months - I hope to get the kit soon. Tonight I was removing the peddles and came back to check out this video but, you were in fast forward mode for that part of the job but, I still got the basic drift so, tomorrow I'll work on getting the peddles removed. Cheers!
@@WaxMeister awesome! Message me on Instagram if you have any questions.
@@jonathanwood1984 what is your instagram name?
@@WaxMeister same as UA-cam
Wanted to watch but could not endure the "drumbeat" over -riding your narrative?
I’m sorry it’s an issue for you but it could be your device. The background audio is very low and definitely does not override the vocals on all of the devices that I’ve used.
Rock on bro, not too many of us w/36 slant backs, mines a WIP but I have a few other cars too so always sort on time. pic here flic.kr/p/2kiWBCU
Nice man! Ya having more than one makes it real challenging sometimes