I used this and a couple other tutorials on getting mine installed! Saved me over $300 having someone else come do it for me, but I took the time to learn what pipe joint compound to get, what my needs were for connecting the included installation kit to my gas line, and how to properly do a gas leak test. All in all I love how it looks, especially over the single starter pipe that came pre-installed in my gas fireplace! Thank you greatly for this tutorial and looking forward to enjoying my fireplace this coming winter
Reading your comment and seeing how it helped you is WHY we do this! We LOVE seeing this!! Very happy to have been able to help you, and we hope you enjoy your new fireplace!! Congrats on the install!!
I just ordered a burner assembly and am going to install mine. my question. The gas hose or connection line, is it built to withstand the heat long term with an open flame? Just thinking about it. Thanks.
Your flex line/gas connection should never be installed on open flame. Every gas installation would have the connection off to the side and never in direct contact with flame. Assuming you follow this, you won't have any issues. But if you install the connection to be in direct flame, most definitely your line will eventually fail and gas will leak from the hose.
@@StarfireDirect correct. It is not sitting on an open flame but just runs across from the valve to the burner assembly as I did not have an elbow connector and did not angle it to the back. I guess my direct question, is the hose itself made to withstand the heat generated in the fireplace long term? I recall the older gas hose my parents had was copper or metal I think. It was installed in the 70s.
Absolutely! This is common practice amongst professional installers, always a good good idea to leak test all fittings before using the appliance. In fact, we made a video that specifically shows HOW to do this: ua-cam.com/video/38r1kJk9TY8/v-deo.html
I don't see why not. You would have flame only, no logs or any fire media? If that's the look you're going for, should be fine. But we wouldn't suggest this as a real wood log burner. The heat from the embers would destroy the gas connection.
I keep dealing with sand clogging my burner. it also burns right at the elbow joint at the burner. What am I doing wrong? (I have a HD set maybe thats the problem)
The 12" 1/2" OD connector that comes with the burner is too short to reach our gas inlet on the other side of the fireplace. What is a suitable replacement?
Also - If you have the gas line on the left side of the fireplace, BUT you have the pilot / remote attachment, it appears the orface and cap cannot be swapped because the pilot / remote have to be installed on the right side. Is that correct? In that case - would simply a longer gas log flex connector work?
Yes, this is sometimes the case. If your burner is a manual match lit NG system, you should be able to swap the orifice to the left side and you're good to go. But if you have a remote or pilot system mounted on the right side, these are meant to only be installed on the right. We do offer a 1/2" whistle free flex line here: starfiredirect.com/products/starfire-designs-whistle-free-flex-line-standard-capacity?variant=29516188024918 Just choose the length that is ideal for you. Alternatively, just go to Home Depot and get some 1/2" black pipe fittings and run the gas line back and behind the burner, then connect the included flex line. An experienced gas log installer would know to do this for you. Hope this helps!
When you say a "key valve", I'm assuming you're speaking about the valve that goes into the wall or floor OUTSIDE of your fireplace, which is how you control the gas flow to the burner. For this, our site has the "Starfire Designs" 1/2" quarter turn key valve. This is what I have in my wall, works great, been installing these for years without issue. If you're speaking about a valve INSIDE of your fireplace, you'll want to get a safety pilot or remote of some kind, we offer many. There are also basic on/off valves with no pilot assembly, but I don't usually recommend these. When the fire is on, these get hot and can become difficult to turn on and off.
This video is very helpful, however, I'm confused by a common restraint that essentially says "if you have a propane system, you CANNOT have a match lite ignition." Please explain. I have a match lite log ignitor tube for my current propane wood-burning fireplace (that I want to replace with gas logs) and it works fine. Why does a propane system require a "safety pilot" ignition in the artificial log applications?
Great question. You're right, there are many "log lighters" that are setup for use with propane. Remember these log lighters are designed to be lit for only a short period of time, just long enough for the wood to catch fire. This may only be for a couple of minutes. Once the fire is going, you turn off the gas. For a gas log set, the flame continues to burn using LP gas for hours at a time. If you walk away, and the flame blows out for any reason, a safety pilot is designed to shut off the gas or relight the gas automatically. We can agree or disagree with the logic behind it, but at the end of the day, it's the fuel code across the entire country. The law requires a safety pilot on all indoor propane appliances. And after working with propane for 21 years, I understand this logic since I've seen and heard countless horror stories where the installation wasn't done correctly or instructions ignored, which led to burns or explosions. Hope this helps!
Simple question please: with regard to the Peterson G31, G45 and G52 Real Fyre vented burners, which of these produces the biggest, most realistic flames?
The easiest way to answer this question is to look at the BTU's of each burner. The G31burner ranges from 55-85k BTU's, the G45 burner ranges from 75-150k BTU's, and the G52 burner ranges from 46-55k BTU's. So if you're looking for the "biggest" flame, the answer is the G45 burner. If you're looking for the "most realistic" flame, the answer is ALL of them. The flame is real, thus all look realistic. In our opinion, if you're wanting a gas log set that looks real, focus on higher BTU output and logs that have realistic characteristics. Some of the less expensive logs have less detail making them look "fake". But some of the more expensive logs have more detail, coloring, and features to make them look "real".
@@StarfireDirect I never thanked you for this. Bought the G45 and APK-17 safety pilot with remote and have been very satisfied with my system. Thanks again.
Fundamentally, fire needs oxygen to work properly. If you keep the doors open, the flame will thrive. If you close the doors, the flame will starve for oxygen. We've seen it where the doors were closed and the flame was on, but it was trying to get oxygen from the cracks in the glass doors, and then they shattered. Certainly your call, but we suggest vented burners have the doors open.
Of course we will always recommend using a Real Fyre burner with Real Fyre logs. If you use your own burner, it may void the warranty on the logs. But it's not uncommon for customers to purchase the logs only and pair with their own burner.
Absolutely! The G4 and G45 burner systems are rated between 39k - 150k BTUs, which is a ton of heat. You might be thinking of a "vent free" or "b vent" type fireplace burner which can often times be designed for more ambiance and less heat output. But the G4 and G45 burners are fully vented burners that put off a ton of heat!
I have a chimney just like you showed and Installed in your video. I just wanted to know if I would get heat in my living room if I installed that same set up.
@@junogwat1979 Yes, you'll get plenty of heat. Just like a real wood fire; a lot of heat goes up the chimney, but there's still much heat that radiates into the room. As far as "gas" fireplaces go, this is the MOST heat you can expect to get. The only thing hotter is wood. So if you prefer the convenience of gas, you'll take a small reduction in total heat output but gain convenience, cost savings, and clean up.
Installed logs/burner just like this...match lit system lights fine...embers burn...no flames up through the logs...turned the key more...no difference. Haven't contacted the gas company yet...what are the odds that the gas flow is impeded by too much pipe dope? just guessing on that one. Frustrated...as it just got cold here... :(
Hmmm, that doesn't make much sense. Are you sure you have a "vented" fireplace? If you hooked up a "vented" logset to a "vent free" or "b-vent" fireplace, that could be why you're getting these results. Of course, if there is something in the pipe blocking the gas flow, that could cause issues too. Without having us virtually inspect or approve the installation, it's hard to tell.
The vertical 1/2" gas pipe that came up into my fireplace floor unscrewed when replacing pipe for the new gas logs...but it unscrewed 18" down...and ashes clogged the pipe...I fished down wire to unclog it and then vacuumed it out with a tube taped to the shopvac to get the suction right down in the elbow. It was a "fun" exercise in engineering to figure out how to solve this problem. Thanks for the comments. We enjoyed a fire last night!!!
@@martymoose22 Wow! What an adventure!! That's happened to me before too, never fun when the pipe comes undone. Glad you got it sorted out. Enjoy your new fireplace!
Is it possible to contact you for support? I have the g45 18/20pa-s for an outdoor fireplace that has never been hooked up because local places say they can't help. My wife would sincerely appreciate me finally getting this working 😎
Hi Rex, you have a vented outdoor burner. Most codes are pretty forgiving with outdoor installations. As long as your fireplace is truly vented and setup for the correct fuel as your burner, I don't see why you should have trouble installing it. Maybe try it yourself? If you don't feel comfortable, I'm sure any licensed plumber would be happy to charge you a couple hundred bucks to come out and do it for you.
I used this and a couple other tutorials on getting mine installed! Saved me over $300 having someone else come do it for me, but I took the time to learn what pipe joint compound to get, what my needs were for connecting the included installation kit to my gas line, and how to properly do a gas leak test. All in all I love how it looks, especially over the single starter pipe that came pre-installed in my gas fireplace! Thank you greatly for this tutorial and looking forward to enjoying my fireplace this coming winter
Reading your comment and seeing how it helped you is WHY we do this! We LOVE seeing this!! Very happy to have been able to help you, and we hope you enjoy your new fireplace!! Congrats on the install!!
Finally figured out how to light my chimney. Thank you!
Excellent and super concise video -- very, very well done!
Thanks so much!! We appreciate the kind comment!
Very helpful and beautiful,thanks
I just ordered a burner assembly and am going to install mine. my question. The gas hose or connection line, is it built to withstand the heat long term with an open flame? Just thinking about it. Thanks.
Your flex line/gas connection should never be installed on open flame. Every gas installation would have the connection off to the side and never in direct contact with flame. Assuming you follow this, you won't have any issues. But if you install the connection to be in direct flame, most definitely your line will eventually fail and gas will leak from the hose.
@@StarfireDirect correct. It is not sitting on an open flame but just runs across from the valve to the burner assembly as I did not have an elbow connector and did not angle it to the back. I guess my direct question, is the hose itself made to withstand the heat generated in the fireplace long term? I recall the older gas hose my parents had was copper or metal I think. It was installed in the 70s.
Very helpful. Thank you
Excellent tutorial. Thank you.
Thanks so much!
You really should add the soapy water testing process
Absolutely! This is common practice amongst professional installers, always a good good idea to leak test all fittings before using the appliance. In fact, we made a video that specifically shows HOW to do this: ua-cam.com/video/38r1kJk9TY8/v-deo.html
Is it possible to use this unit with just the bare pipe and no decorative aggregates?
I don't see why not. You would have flame only, no logs or any fire media? If that's the look you're going for, should be fine. But we wouldn't suggest this as a real wood log burner. The heat from the embers would destroy the gas connection.
Can I take the 3/8 male orifice off and hook the burner up feeding 1/2 gas pipe line
I keep dealing with sand clogging my burner. it also burns right at the elbow joint at the burner. What am I doing wrong? (I have a HD set maybe thats the problem)
The 12" 1/2" OD connector that comes with the burner is too short to reach our gas inlet on the other side of the fireplace. What is a suitable replacement?
Also - If you have the gas line on the left side of the fireplace, BUT you have the pilot / remote attachment, it appears the orface and cap cannot be swapped because the pilot / remote have to be installed on the right side. Is that correct? In that case - would simply a longer gas log flex connector work?
Yes, this is sometimes the case. If your burner is a manual match lit NG system, you should be able to swap the orifice to the left side and you're good to go. But if you have a remote or pilot system mounted on the right side, these are meant to only be installed on the right. We do offer a 1/2" whistle free flex line here: starfiredirect.com/products/starfire-designs-whistle-free-flex-line-standard-capacity?variant=29516188024918
Just choose the length that is ideal for you. Alternatively, just go to Home Depot and get some 1/2" black pipe fittings and run the gas line back and behind the burner, then connect the included flex line.
An experienced gas log installer would know to do this for you. Hope this helps!
What is the best brand/model variable key valve to use with the G45 burner?
When you say a "key valve", I'm assuming you're speaking about the valve that goes into the wall or floor OUTSIDE of your fireplace, which is how you control the gas flow to the burner. For this, our site has the "Starfire Designs" 1/2" quarter turn key valve. This is what I have in my wall, works great, been installing these for years without issue. If you're speaking about a valve INSIDE of your fireplace, you'll want to get a safety pilot or remote of some kind, we offer many. There are also basic on/off valves with no pilot assembly, but I don't usually recommend these. When the fire is on, these get hot and can become difficult to turn on and off.
This video is very helpful, however, I'm confused by a common restraint that essentially says "if you have a propane system, you CANNOT have a match lite ignition." Please explain. I have a match lite log ignitor tube for my current propane wood-burning fireplace (that I want to replace with gas logs) and it works fine. Why does a propane system require a "safety pilot" ignition in the artificial log applications?
Great question. You're right, there are many "log lighters" that are setup for use with propane. Remember these log lighters are designed to be lit for only a short period of time, just long enough for the wood to catch fire. This may only be for a couple of minutes. Once the fire is going, you turn off the gas. For a gas log set, the flame continues to burn using LP gas for hours at a time. If you walk away, and the flame blows out for any reason, a safety pilot is designed to shut off the gas or relight the gas automatically.
We can agree or disagree with the logic behind it, but at the end of the day, it's the fuel code across the entire country. The law requires a safety pilot on all indoor propane appliances. And after working with propane for 21 years, I understand this logic since I've seen and heard countless horror stories where the installation wasn't done correctly or instructions ignored, which led to burns or explosions.
Hope this helps!
You can heat your place with this???
Simple question please: with regard to the Peterson G31, G45 and G52 Real Fyre vented burners, which of these produces the biggest, most realistic flames?
The easiest way to answer this question is to look at the BTU's of each burner. The G31burner ranges from 55-85k BTU's, the G45 burner ranges from 75-150k BTU's, and the G52 burner ranges from 46-55k BTU's.
So if you're looking for the "biggest" flame, the answer is the G45 burner. If you're looking for the "most realistic" flame, the answer is ALL of them. The flame is real, thus all look realistic. In our opinion, if you're wanting a gas log set that looks real, focus on higher BTU output and logs that have realistic characteristics. Some of the less expensive logs have less detail making them look "fake". But some of the more expensive logs have more detail, coloring, and features to make them look "real".
@@StarfireDirect I never thanked you for this. Bought the G45 and APK-17 safety pilot with remote and have been very satisfied with my system. Thanks again.
@@tomsmith2013 Thanks so much! Happy that our video and comments helped!
So we had to keep the fireplace grass open.. for lighting the fire ????
Fundamentally, fire needs oxygen to work properly. If you keep the doors open, the flame will thrive. If you close the doors, the flame will starve for oxygen. We've seen it where the doors were closed and the flame was on, but it was trying to get oxygen from the cracks in the glass doors, and then they shattered. Certainly your call, but we suggest vented burners have the doors open.
What are “glowing embers” made of? Looks like green insulation and vermiculite mixed…
They are made of ceramic fibers mixed in with vermiculite. But yes, they do look like green insulation, very similar texture.
is the flex hose non-whistle?
Yes, these burners come with black whistle free flex lines.
hi I got the white real fyre log. Do I really need to get their burner to or can i jus use my own burner?
Of course we will always recommend using a Real Fyre burner with Real Fyre logs. If you use your own burner, it may void the warranty on the logs. But it's not uncommon for customers to purchase the logs only and pair with their own burner.
Does this give out any heat or is it all visual?
Absolutely! The G4 and G45 burner systems are rated between 39k - 150k BTUs, which is a ton of heat. You might be thinking of a "vent free" or "b vent" type fireplace burner which can often times be designed for more ambiance and less heat output. But the G4 and G45 burners are fully vented burners that put off a ton of heat!
I have a chimney just like you showed and Installed in your video. I just wanted to know if I would get heat in my living room if I installed that same set up.
@@junogwat1979 Yes, you'll get plenty of heat. Just like a real wood fire; a lot of heat goes up the chimney, but there's still much heat that radiates into the room. As far as "gas" fireplaces go, this is the MOST heat you can expect to get. The only thing hotter is wood. So if you prefer the convenience of gas, you'll take a small reduction in total heat output but gain convenience, cost savings, and clean up.
Right. Ok thanks for information brother.
Nice
Nothing about the ember screen tho
Installed logs/burner just like this...match lit system lights fine...embers burn...no flames up through the logs...turned the key more...no difference. Haven't contacted the gas company yet...what are the odds that the gas flow is impeded by too much pipe dope? just guessing on that one. Frustrated...as it just got cold here... :(
Hmmm, that doesn't make much sense. Are you sure you have a "vented" fireplace? If you hooked up a "vented" logset to a "vent free" or "b-vent" fireplace, that could be why you're getting these results. Of course, if there is something in the pipe blocking the gas flow, that could cause issues too. Without having us virtually inspect or approve the installation, it's hard to tell.
The vertical 1/2" gas pipe that came up into my fireplace floor unscrewed when replacing pipe for the new gas logs...but it unscrewed 18" down...and ashes clogged the pipe...I fished down wire to unclog it and then vacuumed it out with a tube taped to the shopvac to get the suction right down in the elbow. It was a "fun" exercise in engineering to figure out how to solve this problem. Thanks for the comments. We enjoyed a fire last night!!!
@@martymoose22 Wow! What an adventure!! That's happened to me before too, never fun when the pipe comes undone. Glad you got it sorted out. Enjoy your new fireplace!
Changing the orifice and cap to the left side of a G45, unless stated in your manual, WILL void the Warranty. Just so you know.
Is it possible to contact you for support? I have the g45 18/20pa-s for an outdoor fireplace that has never been hooked up because local places say they can't help. My wife would sincerely appreciate me finally getting this working 😎
Hi Rex, you have a vented outdoor burner. Most codes are pretty forgiving with outdoor installations. As long as your fireplace is truly vented and setup for the correct fuel as your burner, I don't see why you should have trouble installing it. Maybe try it yourself? If you don't feel comfortable, I'm sure any licensed plumber would be happy to charge you a couple hundred bucks to come out and do it for you.