Thank you for sharing! I've been stringing using the haribito method for my club for many years. I definitely find it maintains a higher tension than the typical 4 knots stringing method. Just a personal preference, but I cannot go back to 4 knots now.
I personally believe that a 4-knot method is safer for the racket frame, while a 2-knot method is less likely to lose tension. If the stringing technique is good, the difference is not significant.
It is recommended to use the same tension. If the horizontal strings have increased tension, it could damage weaker racket frames. As for the advantages, personally, I don't really feel much of a difference.
The price on eBay is USD 700, but if you purchase it from Taobao, it will be much cheaper-models priced around RMB 2500 or more should be sufficient. I find this one to be quite adequate.
@@kuokuo702 the one in another project that you linked on your GitHub uses a RMB500 one with extra aluminum extrusions to reinforce it, is that sufficient?
This is a project by another developer. According to his description, this model cannot be used directly and needs reinforcement. You can refer to his instructions for the extent of the reinforcement or email him (his email is on GitHub) for more details. As far as I know, he has currently switched to the AEF S90.
A straight awl with a hole in the center allows a string of up to 0.7mm to pass through. It requires skill to use; otherwise, the string may break easily. Perhaps for this reason, it is now out of production and no longer available for sale.
Thank you for sharing! I've been stringing using the haribito method for my club for many years. I definitely find it maintains a higher tension than the typical 4 knots stringing method. Just a personal preference, but I cannot go back to 4 knots now.
I also prefer the 2-knot stringing method; it's faster.
真的專業，好厲害
Thank you for the video. May I know what the difference is with the 2-knots or 4-knots? Usually when I send it for restring, I ask for 4-knots.
I personally believe that a 4-knot method is safer for the racket frame, while a 2-knot method is less likely to lose tension. If the stringing technique is good, the difference is not significant.
这个穿线的精髓是横线从第六根（视频上穿线上的第七根，因为您多穿了一根最下面的横线。。。。）所以，如果用2线四结的话，也可以直接使用起始夹固定然后从第六根横线开始拉，然后一路往上直到所有上部横线，然后再穿下方剩余的横线。当然，本人也是2结爱好者，原则上能用2结绝不用4结。
我習慣穿到滿比較美觀😅，我們這邊的張人基本很多先橫線向上甜區穿完會暫留，底部穿完後才穿上半部剩下的橫線，比較安全相較不容易爆拍。
我也是覺得2線少打2個結比較快，您也可以試試SZ法，我覺得也蠻好的也非常簡潔。
@@kuokuo702 嗯嗯，我是2结重度依赖症，少2个结整洁太多。所以我对于各种单线2结图形都挺喜欢的，尽可能每次换个方法穿一下。学习了。
不过最下面那根横线因为如果穿了的话，那根线明显间距窄了一点，我的感觉是非常扎眼，反而变丑了。个人意见。
Whai is the advantage for haribito stringing pattern? Vertical & horizontal same tension?
It is recommended to use the same tension. If the horizontal strings have increased tension, it could damage weaker racket frames. As for the advantages, personally, I don't really feel much of a difference.
@@kuokuo702 ty for the information. Now I learned. 👍
Should I get this or the cheapest one with aluminum extrusions? Is that one acccurate and damage the racket?
It's highly discouraged to purchase machines priced below USD $700, as their frame strength is often insufficient and can easily damage the racket.
@@kuokuo702 The one in this video is under $700 on taobao though, would you recommend it and any downsides with it?
The price on eBay is USD 700, but if you purchase it from Taobao, it will be much cheaper-models priced around RMB 2500 or more should be sufficient. I find this one to be quite adequate.
@@kuokuo702 the one in another project that you linked on your GitHub uses a RMB500 one with extra aluminum extrusions to reinforce it, is that sufficient?
This is a project by another developer. According to his description, this model cannot be used directly and needs reinforcement. You can refer to his instructions for the extent of the reinforcement or email him (his email is on GitHub) for more details. As far as I know, he has currently switched to the AEF S90.
您好 想請問我跟你是同台穿線機 每次固定球拍都不確定有沒有平均固定 想請問您都是怎麼抓的呢
平均固定是什麼意思呢？架拍嗎？我的架拍方式給你參考
1.先12點與6點方向微固定含著不會掉下來就好
2. 再來固定上下四個C夾，碰到即可
3. C夾的夾臂用力往回拉，一定會拉出間隙(這台的小問題)，再次轉C夾消除間隙至碰到拍框(上半部碰到就好，下半部可緊一點點)
4. 12點與6點方向轉到肉眼看到拍框沒有被拉長即可
@@kuokuo702 對我非常有幫助 感謝你 之前苦惱了許久
Hello, can you tell me what tool you used to insert the share hole? It looks so convenient.
A straight awl with a hole in the center allows a string of up to 0.7mm to pass through. It requires skill to use; otherwise, the string may break easily. Perhaps for this reason, it is now out of production and no longer available for sale.
@@kuokuo702 Could you tell me the name of it? I really want to get it.😂
Search for 'hp-9 badminton' on Google and switch to the image results; you might see it there. I must emphasize again, using this tool requires skill.
請問一下 這是幾線幾結的 初心學穿線 不太懂
一線兩結
請問起始使用飛夾那一下是必需嗎？
可以不用喔，只是這條線穿完會稍微鬆一點點而已
您好 可以請教短邊入第幾孔是固定的嗎
請參考gosen官方網站的線譜(最下面)
www.gosen.jp/eng/special/gungnir/
粉紅色的短線有什麼作用？
之後穿橫線如果孔被穿好的豎線壓到可以用起始鉗拉這條粉紅色的短線將孔露出來比較好穿，如果是好一點的拍子，孔位會上下錯開一些，就不用放此短線。
這個太有趣了吧！
DIY穿線蠻好玩的
這台是自己研發的機器嗎？
對的 程式碼開源 製作過程可參閱頻道影片
參考 github.com/206cc/PicoBETH