You know i've been married for 37 years and I really enjoy seeing another couple doing things together so well that they compliments each other, so keep up the good work not only with this project but the enjoyment of being around each other and showing other people how it's done!!!!
Ben love how you drilled out the windows in the hull doors, maybe if you use thin clear sheets of clear plastic and sand them somewhat to give them a frosted look, that may work perfect to eliminate any hot spots com'in from those doors.
Cool idea going with this way of lighting the model. Couple suggestions for you; paint the inside of the model with flat black and check to make sure it’s not leaking light through the plastic and seams. Make the inside of the model a light box and point the fiber optics at the source as you mentioned but fiber optics hate being bent, you loose a lot of light for every turn. It could be ok because you get a variety of light intensity and that could look fine in the end but it’s something to look out for. On the largest of the Titanic models for the movie they built quarters so when the camera would pan by the larger portholes you might see inside. You could replicate the effect with backlit images spaced back from the pothole window. We did this on SFX models for the same effect but with 35mm slides. I worked on the movie and we built the engine room and the subs so your model project is right up my alley! I had my eye on this kit from the start when they released photos from the toy fair in Germany so it’s good to see it being built with great attention to detail.
Just happened upon the first video in this Titanic series and have now I'm caught up! Can't wait to follow along and enjoy all the videos before this project. Glad this was recommended to me! Subscribed!
My wife has been a manicurist for 30 years. I got hip to using professional nail files and pads way before the modeling industry did. It’s the only hip thing about me. Sadness. The hull lighting looks fantastic. Nice even light. In the stern under the poop deck you can take all the long strands and run them into a piece of flexible tubing to gather them together. That way you don’t have a bunch of loose strands to contend with.
Yep they look good. Perhaps some diffusion, frosted plastic will help tone down any hot spots you encounter. Warning! part A12 (page 13) will need the portholes drilled out as the mould was inverted incorrectly. Your PE porthole replacements will need to be used or the KA versions which are included in the Upscale kit. There are a few windows missing in the superstructure that you will encounter later on too!! Great video! :-)
Oh yeah i'm just throwing this out there, love the lights but not all the lights would be the same brightness but some of the rooms would be lit with a table lamp where as others would be brighter and some may not be lit at all. Are ya'll going to lite all the room the same brightness??? Anyway keep up the great work!!!
So our plan is to have ALL the lights on because that’s they way we like it. But we will be varying the intensity of each room like you mentioned. The next step is finishing all the fiber optics for the windows in the main hull, then we will install the first LED strips and start tuning the brightness of the windows.
Yes I tried that right away. Unfortunately this stuff just turns into a frizzy bubbling mess. I tried less heat and nothing happened. It was like it was going to melt into an ugly mess or do nothing at all.
How much would this ship rms titanic costs? Thanks again bcos the build the pirates of the Caribbean the black Pearl,it took me about a month to do but every day just a couple hours a day.
I've seen someone else using one of these lamps and they seem to work well. It does seem pricey but you get what you pay for.😁 Fibre-optics is something I know nothing about so it was interesting to see the process. That's a huge project, on 𝒆𝒂𝒄𝒉 side, but it could be so much 𝒘𝒐𝒓𝒔𝒆 using different techniques. Apart from anything else, this has to be the cheapest method of lighting thousands of portholes.😁
what temperature light are you getting out of the LEDs? The issue folks always have, this comes up in locomotive road number boards where the light is way too blue in the 5000k+ range.
Looks great you two! Just getting into lighting myself! Question for you - do you intend to leave every port hole lit? On Enterprise builds, I've seen guys do a random pattern to the window lights, so it looks as though some rooms have light and some don't. Just curious.
We are lighting ALL OF THEM. On the enterprise, with its lighter color hull, it’s easy to see the difference. On this black hull it just looks like we missed something. I’m also not into figuring out which rooms were lit and which weren’t to be “accurate”. Because it’s not. At 10:30pm I bet most of the rooms were dark anyway.
i do fiber optic work and if you get the cleaver tool that we use it will cut the end perfect so you don't have to polish it by hand. its like 40 bucks
@@TheMidwestModelShop and also fiber glass has a small jacket around that before you get to pure glass this kit will save yall alot of time on doing fiber strands for lighting and also you could look into fiber termination connectors to help hold the fiber in holes better and protect the ends of them and it will still produce the same light effect
This is fantastic! I’m really enjoying what you’ve done so far. I’m sorry I’m so behind. You both are inspiring me to get to work on mine. I got it when the pandemic first broke out, but haven’t been ready to put in the time. I’m referencing your work and getting ideas. I need to start searching for all the photo etched stuff. Again thanks for sharing! I was going to ask questions, but I think I should get through the rest of your videos first lol
Thanks Robert! I haven’t been able to work on my kit for the last 2 months because of work. But I’m hoping to get back on it next week and getting some content out. Check this site out for some PE: www.woodysmodelworks.co.uk/titanic.html#/ I’ve got some links and directions in the descriptions of my more recent videos. They should point you in the right direction as well. Thanks for watching!
Hi Ben I've asked this before but I've lost your message am thinking of getting this kit but with it having brass part such as the photo etch what glue do I need to put the photo etch on the kit with it being painted will any normal super glue do
I can't believe you opted to use fiber optic cable. You are aware of lighting gels and diffusion right? not to mention pretty inexpensive low voltage dimmers for LEDS.
Hi Guys got a question for you what's the best plastic filler? I screwed up one porthole on the stern from the four that you need to add, I'm using testers puddy in a tube but it dries much to soft for my liking I thought of widdling down a pc of plastic from a sprue & gluing it into the hole to make it stronger to drill into without chipping, but not sure if there's a better alternative. Any help in this area would be greatly appreciated. 😜👍
So for seems that need to be filled quickly and then painted I use “Perfect Putty”. But it doesn’t dry hard. So for the windows I use Squadron White Putty. It will dry hard and drill out pretty well. But there’s a chance it could chip. You have to be careful when drilling. The best solution is using the kit styrene and touring down a rod of it to install in the hole because it will be the same density as the hull. Styrene rod also works well, but can be softer than the kit plastic in some instances. I use all three methods, depending on what I’m doing.
4:45 ... Why buy expensive fibre optics, when a decent quality fishing line will do the same job? It comes in a large variety of diameters and one spool provides a life-time worth of line. For just pocket money. Just make sure the fishing line is colourless and transparent and it MUST have a smooth, shiny finish. The tips of the fibre optics you are using sometimes respond well to acetone or heat. Cut off a short piece and dip one end in acetone. Some plastics become glossy almost instantly, some turn white or matt, so give it a try. Soft plastics will also become clear after some heat is applied, so hold one end near to a flame. Near.....that is, don't hold it into the flame.
Hello B&N nice in depth video, I have seen the other's but got to love all the info you both share with us. As for fiber optics at the stern instead bending the ones blocked by aft well deck around & under why not drill a hole or holes & run them thru the aft well deck to the light source, they'll be covered by the poop deck anyway. Funny story for yrs I've wanted to build a titanic replica, but one that you could actually sit in & control from within the ship itself, I've mentioned using troll motors for power because they can actually be made into modular units using the motors themselves & connecting the wires. But I also mentioned how using fiber optics for the portholes, could be a very good idea, so whether this idea originated from me, I'll never know, but its great to actually see it work on a smaller scale, and its great to see it come to life. 😜👍👍 Btw did you guys get my steampunk'd email I sent? cuz I saw no reply to it. And my reason for never building such a replica is because I lack the space to build it. But I've mentioned my idea's to: The ModelBoatGuy, hobbie Model Maniac and an other named: Hand Made, if you care to check their comments. I've had that idea since the movie came out. Anyway Guys great video, & sorry sometimes I run a muck when I start writing...lol. 😇✌
So the inside of the decks will get foil tape on them. The hull itself isn’t bleeding through anywhere (yet) because there’s so much paint on it. But I’m not going to “flood” this thing with intense LEDs. I’m not interested in super bright illumination. If I have to, I’ll put some drops of paint on the LEDS to dull their intensity.
Looks like Nora has replaced Ya Ben on production and development! Lol! Anything worth doing is worth doing well!! Well done my friend! Ya nailed the effect perfectly! Great info on how to achieve the effect!
Hi B&N I want to do the fiber optics for the portholes too, but when I look up lighthouse leds, there's tons of places with that title, could you guys supply a link or phone number that could narrow the search down or link me directly to the same place where you two got your fiber optics? Thanks a bunch 😜👍
@@TheMidwestModelShop Ben & Nora thank you very much ..love you guys 😇✌ Btw found them & I also added that you guys sent me : ) hopefully my sizes are correct 1.0mm, 1.5mm, & 3mm. 🤔...?
The lighting looks great, sorry, but to uniform. Every port hole would not be lit. Some would be dark. Think of a large hotel, then look how some rooms are occupied others empty. The paint job is awesome. And I'm looking forward to seeing it completed.
Absolutely and some of the rooms weren’t even finished, which is also why the ship wouldn’t have been fully lit up, the disaster took place on her shake down cruise
Agreed, passengers would have been out and about some of the evening and all doing their own thing. A modern cruise ship (when they actually sail) would be exactly the same although much brighter. The public rooms would of course have been a blaze of low power illumination and many of the cabins would be in total darkness. The third class friendly 4 type of bunk bed cabins further down the ship would have been less popular to hang about in during the evenings apart from sleep mode!
Despite the effects in the 'movie' the illuminated funnel lights did not actually exist! Just saying, as you are playing with the lights now to very good effect. ;-)
Yeah, I let them know right away that I would ONLY do it if I could say what I wanted. And I think it cost too much, when I first saw it. But, then when I received it.... they did change my mine. Good stuff cost money. There's no way around it, usually.
You should have left some of those undrilled, she wouldnt have had all of her lights on all at once Especially in places like the kitchens ect as they would have been closed at night
You know i've been married for 37 years and I really enjoy seeing another couple doing things together so well that they compliments each other, so keep up the good work not only with this project but the enjoyment of being around each other and showing other people how it's done!!!!
Good job beautiful titanic 😉👌
Ben & Nora, this has become a must view build, the info, techniques and your personalities all combined are creating a unique experience - thank you
Thanks Ralph! We are doing our best!
Instead of buffing blocks could you use wet and dry papers???
impresive
Recommendation of illumination accepted. Been looking for better modeling lamp. Thanks guys!
Ben love how you drilled out the windows in the hull doors, maybe if you use thin clear sheets of clear plastic and sand them somewhat to give them a frosted look, that may work perfect to eliminate any hot spots com'in from those doors.
Love Nora's adorable laugh
The lights adds alot to the look
Cool idea going with this way of lighting the model.
Couple suggestions for you; paint the inside of the model with flat black and check to make sure it’s not leaking light through the plastic and seams. Make the inside of the model a light box and point the fiber optics at the source as you mentioned but fiber optics hate being bent, you loose a lot of light for every turn. It could be ok because you get a variety of light intensity and that could look fine in the end but it’s something to look out for.
On the largest of the Titanic models for the movie they built quarters so when the camera would pan by the larger portholes you might see inside. You could replicate the effect with backlit images spaced back from the pothole window. We did this on SFX models for the same effect but with 35mm slides.
I worked on the movie and we built the engine room and the subs so your model project is right up my alley! I had my eye on this kit from the start when they released photos from the toy fair in Germany so it’s good to see it being built with great attention to detail.
"Nora's Midwest Model Shop"...Luv you guys...
Just happened upon the first video in this Titanic series and have now I'm caught up! Can't wait to follow along and enjoy all the videos before this project. Glad this was recommended to me! Subscribed!
That must have taken an age to fit all that fibre optics, result is stunning.
Really looking good!!!!!!!!!! 👍👍👍
Absolutely beautiful with the lights
You have interesting way of doing the lights
My wife has been a manicurist for 30 years. I got hip to using professional nail files and pads way before the modeling industry did. It’s the only hip thing about me. Sadness. The hull lighting looks fantastic. Nice even light. In the stern under the poop deck you can take all the long strands and run them into a piece of flexible tubing to gather them together. That way you don’t have a bunch of loose strands to contend with.
Great content, you guys just simplify big situations. Thanks again for your time and efforts in making these programs.
Keep having fun modelling 👍
That’s a lot of lights. Looks good though. Thanks again for sharing! Love it!
Those are really nice. It looks like some pictures I've seen.
Yep they look good. Perhaps some diffusion, frosted plastic will help tone down any hot spots you encounter. Warning! part A12 (page 13) will need the portholes drilled out as the mould was inverted incorrectly. Your PE porthole replacements will need to be used or the KA versions which are included in the Upscale kit. There are a few windows missing in the superstructure that you will encounter later on too!! Great video! :-)
Does the LED strips have any sort of power input socket wire or some sort ? If so, where do you place them on the model ?
Yes it plugs into a normal 110v plug. I’m going to do a video on all of that as soon as I have time. It’s next on the “to do” list.
Oh yeah i'm just throwing this out there, love the lights but not all the lights would be the same brightness but some of the rooms would be lit with a table lamp where as others would be brighter and some may not be lit at all. Are ya'll going to lite all the room the same brightness??? Anyway keep up the great work!!!
So our plan is to have ALL the lights on because that’s they way we like it. But we will be varying the intensity of each room like you mentioned. The next step is finishing all the fiber optics for the windows in the main hull, then we will install the first LED strips and start tuning the brightness of the windows.
I’ve actually been looking for a lamp going to go check it out!
Good luck with your work!
Looking fab guys 👍
Way cool. Love the light too. Hmmmmm, do I need to spend $200+ to help my poor eyes when I model? Probably. Rats. Love the lighting. Looks good!
Had you tried melting the ends of the fiber optic strands (Lucite rods) to make a tiny blob as we model railroaders have done for a long time?
Yes I tried that right away. Unfortunately this stuff just turns into a frizzy bubbling mess. I tried less heat and nothing happened. It was like it was going to melt into an ugly mess or do nothing at all.
Where did u get your LED lights at. And is there any way I can get the fiber Optic stuff online?
How much would this ship rms titanic costs? Thanks again bcos the build the pirates of the Caribbean the black Pearl,it took me about a month to do but every day just a couple hours a day.
In 1/200 scale it runs about $450 us. I purchased my from MegaHobby.
thanks!
Fiber Optics or End Glow Fiber Optics?
I've seen someone else using one of these lamps and they seem to work well. It does seem pricey but you get what you pay for.😁
Fibre-optics is something I know nothing about so it was interesting to see the process. That's a huge project, on 𝒆𝒂𝒄𝒉 side, but it could be so much 𝒘𝒐𝒓𝒔𝒆 using different techniques. Apart from anything else, this has to be the cheapest method of lighting thousands of portholes.😁
I was expecting you to use the BenQ light inside the model.
How much would it cost for you to build a Trumpeter Titanic for me? I
don't have the patience/time/space to build a model like that
Use a heat gun and warm the end until it clears. Should take about 2 seconds each.😁
what temperature light are you getting out of the LEDs? The issue folks always have, this comes up in locomotive road number boards where the light is way too blue in the 5000k+ range.
You’ll have to look closely at the box in the video for the specs. It’s definitely NOT blue and looks like incandescent lights.
Looks great you two! Just getting into lighting myself! Question for you - do you intend to leave every port hole lit? On Enterprise builds, I've seen guys do a random pattern to the window lights, so it looks as though some rooms have light and some don't. Just curious.
We are lighting ALL OF THEM. On the enterprise, with its lighter color hull, it’s easy to see the difference. On this black hull it just looks like we missed something. I’m also not into figuring out which rooms were lit and which weren’t to be “accurate”. Because it’s not. At 10:30pm I bet most of the rooms were dark anyway.
You guys are so goofy, it's fun to watch.
This is no way a criticism but would the titanic have all the lights on in all the cabins etc? Could i leave some dark?
Sorry I’ve just gone to the first comment and realised you have already answer my question
No worries!
i do fiber optic work and if you get the cleaver tool that we use it will cut the end perfect so you don't have to polish it by hand. its like 40 bucks
Do you have a link to this tool? Is that what it’s called?
@@TheMidwestModelShop www.amazon.com/Optical-Connection-Stripping-SUMITOMO-Stripper/dp/B01GLRWXDC/ref=sr_1_24?dchild=1&keywords=fiber+optic+fiber+cleaver&qid=1625939077&s=hi&sr=1-24
@@TheMidwestModelShop and also fiber glass has a small jacket around that before you get to pure glass this kit will save yall alot of time on doing fiber strands for lighting and also you could look into fiber termination connectors to help hold the fiber in holes better and protect the ends of them and it will still produce the same light effect
@@TheMidwestModelShop do yall take online orders from your shop and ship out model kits and if so a link to website to order thanks
No we don’t have a shop. I called it the model “shop” as in “work shop”.
This is fantastic! I’m really enjoying what you’ve done so far. I’m sorry I’m so behind. You both are inspiring me to get to work on mine. I got it when the pandemic first broke out, but haven’t been ready to put in the time. I’m referencing your work and getting ideas. I need to start searching for all the photo etched stuff. Again thanks for sharing! I was going to ask questions, but I think I should get through the rest of your videos first lol
Thanks Robert! I haven’t been able to work on my kit for the last 2 months because of work. But I’m hoping to get back on it next week and getting some content out.
Check this site out for some PE: www.woodysmodelworks.co.uk/titanic.html#/
I’ve got some links and directions in the descriptions of my more recent videos. They should point you in the right direction as well. Thanks for watching!
Hi Ben I've asked this before but I've lost your message am thinking of getting this kit but with it having brass part such as the photo etch what glue do I need to put the photo etch on the kit with it being painted will any normal super glue do
Yes. But you’ll have better luck with “Bob’s CA Glue Medium Gel”. You can get it on Amazon or any hobby store.
@@TheMidwestModelShop thanks Ben I'll try my local model shop in the morning I just don't want to miss up a £400 model
I can't believe you opted to use fiber optic cable. You are aware of lighting gels and diffusion right? not to mention pretty inexpensive low voltage dimmers for LEDS.
Great video, new subscriber 👍
Hi did you just drill the portholes or did you correct them in position and alter the sides to the correct porthole layout
Love the videos though
Ha! No! We just drilled them. Because I can’t tell the difference.
so, you doesnt have to attach the fibre optics directly to the led?
No you do not. The only reason I would do that is if I wanted the full lighting intensity of the LED to come out the fiber optic.
Hi Guys got a question for you what's the best plastic filler? I screwed up one porthole on the stern from the four that you need to add, I'm using testers puddy in a tube but it dries much to soft for my liking I thought of widdling down a pc of plastic from a sprue & gluing it into the hole to make it stronger to drill into without chipping, but not sure if there's a better alternative. Any help in this area would be greatly appreciated. 😜👍
So for seems that need to be filled quickly and then painted I use “Perfect Putty”. But it doesn’t dry hard. So for the windows I use Squadron White Putty. It will dry hard and drill out pretty well. But there’s a chance it could chip. You have to be careful when drilling. The best solution is using the kit styrene and touring down a rod of it to install in the hole because it will be the same density as the hull. Styrene rod also works well, but can be softer than the kit plastic in some instances. I use all three methods, depending on what I’m doing.
@@TheMidwestModelShop thanks a Billion Ben. 👍👍
4:45 ... Why buy expensive fibre optics, when a decent quality fishing line will do the same job? It comes in a large variety of diameters and one spool provides a life-time worth of line. For just pocket money. Just make sure the fishing line is colourless and transparent and it MUST have a smooth, shiny finish.
The tips of the fibre optics you are using sometimes respond well to acetone or heat. Cut off a short piece and dip one end in acetone. Some plastics become glossy almost instantly, some turn white or matt, so give it a try. Soft plastics will also become clear after some heat is applied, so hold one end near to a flame. Near.....that is, don't hold it into the flame.
Hello B&N nice in depth video, I have seen the other's but got to love all the info you both share with us. As for fiber optics at the stern instead bending the ones blocked by aft well deck around & under why not drill a hole or holes & run them thru the aft well deck to the light source, they'll be covered by the poop deck anyway. Funny story for yrs I've wanted to build a titanic replica, but one that you could actually sit in & control from within the ship itself, I've mentioned using troll motors for power because they can actually be made into modular units using the motors themselves & connecting the wires. But I also mentioned how using fiber optics for the portholes, could be a very good idea, so whether this idea originated from me, I'll never know, but its great to actually see it work on a smaller scale, and its great to see it come to life. 😜👍👍
Btw did you guys get my steampunk'd email I sent? cuz I saw no reply to it.
And my reason for never building such a replica is because I lack the space to build it. But I've mentioned my idea's to: The ModelBoatGuy, hobbie Model Maniac and an other named: Hand Made, if you care to check their comments. I've had that idea since the movie came out. Anyway Guys great video, & sorry sometimes I run a muck when I start writing...lol. 😇✌
So much “that’s what she said” in this vid hahahahha! Yep I’m 43 and not 13 lol
What are you going to do about light bleeding through the plastic
So the inside of the decks will get foil tape on them. The hull itself isn’t bleeding through anywhere (yet) because there’s so much paint on it. But I’m not going to “flood” this thing with intense LEDs. I’m not interested in super bright illumination. If I have to, I’ll put some drops of paint on the LEDS to dull their intensity.
Looks like Nora has replaced Ya Ben on production and development! Lol! Anything worth doing is worth doing well!! Well done my friend! Ya nailed the effect perfectly! Great info on how to achieve the effect!
Thanks Brian! Looking forward to your final results on that Mustang. I like what you’ve done, already!
Go Nora.
Hi B&N I want to do the fiber optics for the portholes too, but when I look up lighthouse leds, there's tons of places with that title, could you guys supply a link or phone number that could narrow the search down or link me directly to the same place where you two got your fiber optics? Thanks a bunch 😜👍
Sure Jack. It was the first link that popped up in Google. lighthouseleds.com
Here’s a direct link to the 1mm filament. You just have to search the site for the other sizes.
lighthouseleds.com/1-0-end-glow-fiber-optic.html
@@TheMidwestModelShop Ben & Nora thank you very much ..love you guys 😇✌
Btw found them & I also added that you guys sent me : ) hopefully my sizes are correct 1.0mm, 1.5mm, & 3mm. 🤔...?
Damn and I thought I had a nice lamp !
The lighting looks great, sorry, but to uniform. Every port hole would not be lit. Some would be dark. Think of a large hotel, then look how some rooms are occupied others empty. The paint job is awesome. And I'm looking forward to seeing it completed.
Very correct. Its a good job the ends of the fibre optic can be taped off to stop the light on the desired port holes 😀. Does look good tho fully lit.
Absolutely and some of the rooms weren’t even finished, which is also why the ship wouldn’t have been fully lit up, the disaster took place on her shake down cruise
Agreed, passengers would have been out and about some of the evening and all doing their own thing. A modern cruise ship (when they actually sail) would be exactly the same although much brighter. The public rooms would of course have been a blaze of low power illumination and many of the cabins would be in total darkness. The third class friendly 4 type of bunk bed cabins further down the ship would have been less popular to hang about in during the evenings apart from sleep mode!
Despite the effects in the 'movie' the illuminated funnel lights did not actually exist! Just saying, as you are playing with the lights now to very good effect. ;-)
I Googled " 4 way" yeah some interesting hits not many on buffing blocks lol
"Robert the Cag" is thinking the same thing I am. The lights are really cool though otherwise.
It will look more realistic if you leave about 20% unlit at random. It's very unlikely every single light was on at the same time.
Cool:)
Neat! 👌🏼
: )))) for both
Bit expensive for a lamp.
No one gives me free or discounted product to review either. But when you give them a bad review, boy do they get upset.
Yeah, I let them know right away that I would ONLY do it if I could say what I wanted. And I think it cost too much, when I first saw it. But, then when I received it.... they did change my mine. Good stuff cost money. There's no way around it, usually.
You should have left some of those undrilled, she wouldnt have had all of her lights on all at once
Especially in places like the kitchens ect as they would have been closed at night
But then the portholes wouldn’t match when all of the lights are off on the model 🤷🏻♂️