I don't care that you go just past the 10 min mark, because you fill that time with valuable information, and entertaining content! Wish more people did that :)
I spent at least tweo hours searching for how to install that sensor and you are my saving grace. I didn't even see your last video on the firmware. I will not miss another video. Thank you thank you thank you.
Joe my friend.... you have a knack for making things clear. Om having terrible trouble with a tronxy x3a with "auto leveling" Your video may or may not solve things but you have certainly cleared so many things in my mind. many many thanks Dave
Like you I got the Tronxy P802MA when I thought I was buying something better but I can't afford to replace it so I need to get everything out of it I can with minimum outlay, and I'm sure I'm not alone. Tips on making the best of the least would be most welcome. The mysteries of the Bed-Leveling / Z offset conundrum really highlight the fact we are not dealing with a mature technology here - and adds the excitement of being among a band of poineers! At 68 I'm still an excited kid!
Hzy long time i watch your videos... i never leave a comment, just receive the sensor today and install it very fast thnaks of your video... really nice work man, continu its really helpfull for us (noobs new makers). Thanks a lot. (sorry french english :-) )
There are a ton of videos on anet a8 upgrades. I just bought the a6, and I'd love to see upgrade videos on that printer. I know that the printers are similar electronically but physically there are some significant differences. I'd also like to see a bltouch or 3d touch bed leveling setup instal on the a6. I'm not trying to detract from the a8 crowd , but they have an abundance of videos to choose from. The a6 crowd is starving for info. 😉
thanks for tutorial, makes much more sense than the official one from anet :) I still experience a problem that printer won't stop when z sensor light is on. It worked for autolevelling, stopped perfectly but now won't stop after I tired to run a print
This was great, the sensor seems fine. I will check on your channel on what the process is when connected to PC also as that is one thing I may do soon.
@@JohnJaggerJack You Must remove original endstop, finish sn04 sensor with New molex plug and connect it in place of original endstop. Pay attention, where at motherboard is placed + - and signal! Its important! If You make a fail - You can damage sensor or motherboard endstop buffer input You can also keep old endstop and connect it in serial with sn04 sensor. This old endstop Will be a solid protrction in case of sn04 sensor damage. This May prevent nozzle from hitting the table.
Most helpful .. the TronXY (Anet A8 clone) bed sensor setting instructions are worse than useless: you made the process very easy to follow and it worked well! (hey, TronXY, get this guy to write your instructions!)
3D Maker Noob The acrylic piece that came with that same sensor is too thick to fit between the motor and bracket. Did you mount yours between the fan and braket?
Another awesome vid! I'll definitely be using this resource and the firmware one as well, once it's time to upgrade! Are you considering the E3d V6 upgrade? I've got one coming in, along side my A8 order, and I'd be interested to see the conversion method in your style. I'm planning on using the stock head for a while until I'm ready for the switch to a bowden setup though, so you've still got time. lol
+Dj Goku E3D V6 is already here and waiting :) i just need to finish comparing the A6 to the A8 and the first thing I'll do is install either the V6 or the titan extruder :)
Joe thank you for making things easier. I am running skynet 2.3 and octopi on my a8. Unlike this vid my autolevel set up is on the back of the carriage. i have experienced the nozzle/carriage ramming into the hotbed on a few occasions (the sensor was above the hotbed). I now have a grinding and vibration coming from my right z axis rod. I am worried that the motor or the rod are damaged and have not taken anything apart yet. My question is does the location of the leveller matter from the front to the back of the carriage?
Hello Joe, I've followed meticulously the 10 steps but unfortunately the result is not here... The nozzle makes an auto bed levelling before printing and sinks into the bed after the 2 test points... I totally don't understand why :-(. So I must turn off the printer to avoid to destroy the nozzle and bed... Do you have any explainations / help for that situation ? Thank you in advance and congratulations for your very useful videos.
I get the feeling when I tried the Skynet 1.1 previously, the instructions I was using recommended all sorts of changes to the configuration.h. I just deleted and unzipped 1.1 again and it centers now. I will now try and upgrade to 2.3.9 again and see if it works. I also trolled around the webs and found other people had similar issues so I hope my experience here helps someone in the future if it works.
+AvocadoGamer212 yes of course. You just need to find the right hotend enclosure with a space to install the sensor on it. Many of them on thingiverse :)
I never felt any need for a sensor on my A8. Only took a minute to set it and I almost never needed to adjust it. I would check it from time to time and it was just spot-on. One thing that I did do however, was mount the printer to a stable platform that was not prone to warping. Extra expense, extra time setting up and testing an induction sensor? Nah, not for me. Old skool works for me, every time!😊👍
Thanks for the great videos I just got the printer about a week ago and and been very happy with my fist prints This is my first 3d Printer Now I'm setting up the auto bed leveling which has worked out great so far.. The one problem I'm just starting to have is that my pla is started to come out from between the nozzle and heating block and lands on print tried to tighten a bit and works out at the start and then it does it again not sure if you have run into this problem? I see there is skynet v2.3.2 is it worth the upgrade? Thanks keep up the great videos
I installed the software you provided and for the most part, it worked. I am having an issue thou when it auto levels it starts in a more upright position than the center and due to that when it auto levels it puts the sensor that is located on and back of the extruder off the build plate so it can't sense anything.
i'll always reply as long as i'm awake :) the one i used is an inductive proximity sensor which as far as i know is the one that ships with anets when included. this came with the tronxy but they are the same. in terms of configuration, the video shows exactly what i used, nothing less :)
i doubt this particular sensor would, however i will be buying a different sensor soon and installing that one that works with a glass bed and will doa video on it
it does but will be a hassle as the distance offset between the nozzle and the sensor would either be too little seeing as you have to lower it even further in order to compensate for the height of the glass bed against the nozzle, to some extent the sensor might end up even lower as this sensor detects metal surfaces not any surface
In some cases when your PSU is slightly off delivering less than 12V the sensor can be affected, but under normal circumstances the blue 6-36V rectangular form factor sensors work fine @5V leaving about .3 to .5mm to the 3mm glas sheets. Powering these sensors with 12V and connecting the output via voltage divider (2/3 i. e. 1K/1.5K) they even work better.
Hello... Great video. I have a tronxy 802 and when I try and auto home... It doesn't send the heat pad. I ensure it was connected in the right spot.. And when I pass a metal under it it works but doesn't recognize the heated... Please help.
Hey Joe, I installed and got everything setup but I am having a problem printing. Its trying to print but it is not feeding any filament. Any ideas as to whats going on?
I noticed there is a menu option for autolevel. This performs the 9 point test. Can we use this menu option and then load a print that does not start with G29?
i've just bought the sensor for my A8. i'm going to look into changing the firmware to skynet as its marlin at the minute. having 5 3D printers that are all different gets a bit confusing lol
I don't get it. My z offset (I've played with it quite a bit) is not moving the nozzle even when I autohome it... Should it move only during print? Also, I've seen some place say that they have negative offsets and the lower it gets well, the lower the nozzel gets... so why is it here that the higher the number is, the lower it gets?
I'm having the same issue. I can't figure it out. I've kinda manually manipulated the sensor into a good spot, but the z offset thing does nothing. It would be nice if it worked.
Michael MacDonald Yea actually I just physically make the sensor the right height now. You need a thick business card not thin paper or it will dig into the blue tape.
Reko Starr that's what I did. Finally got everything dialed in well, but clogged my extruder in the process. Taking a break right now. Frustrating, but I'm convinced it will be worth it.
If i want to put this in the back using the bracket mount similar to the Roko sensor, do i need to change some setting so the sensor will move to the center. The sensor gets in the way when i insert the filament
Hi Joe .... I know this is an old video, How do you do this with a Bowden Setup, and the level sensor is on the right side of the print head instead of the left I cant get my offsets right, i think i should of put the sensor in the back
So very concise Joe, thanks for sharing this. I am looking for a 'budget' printer to add to the channel, thinking a kit. I know you get this a lot, but what do you recommend I start with. And remember, I am a bigger NOOB then you, this would be my first kit.
+Print 3D Channel while this is not the ideal first printer, it definitely is a very good cheap kit, costs less than 200, and the community behind it is impressive. It's also a LOT of fun to print all the upgrades for it. A step up from this would be the A6, better UI, more rigid structure but less tinkering needed. After that it's a CR-10 :)
hello! i have successfully follow your instraction about upgrading the firmware. but now the print is not center the heat bed. how can i resolved this issue?
Thanks for the reply, I decided to go ahead and just configure it, it does work, just no light. Not sure which wires I would have to swap around, so just going to leave it alone. From all the googling and youtubing the wire colors are correct and with my luck id end up breaking the connector off. As it was I broke the acrylic backing tightening the screws.. gotta love crazy glue.
That was definitely a different way to set up the auto leveling, and it will work just fine. It was easier than what I just went through using the Ardunio codes and all. Upgrading to skynet messed up my extrusion values that I was perfect with the stock firmware. I was able to adjust the values in the Ardunio method and don't know if there is a similar was of adjusting like you did with the self leveling.
Help!! I followed your instructions about installing it from previous video, and after turning the printer ON and placing a metal object below the sensor the light turns on as it should do... everything goes ok until now. But when I do the Home All, the Z-stop never stops even when the sensor and the exruder smashes the bed. I have to turn off the printer to make it stop... What am I doing wrong? Please help
Hi amazing interesting. But can I tell you about the problem I still have : I followed your tuto the best I could and the thing is globally working. BUT I still notice when printing the first layer, for the left size of my printing, the bowden is too low and for the right side, it is too high. I am using a tree points levelling. Is there a way to fine tune the mesure of the tree points or should I use another method ? Thanks a lot (and sorry for my very bad english writing)
Hi, 3d maker noob. I followed your instructions, which were outstanding Thank you, but now my printer extruder is shooting all the way over to the left and mashing the extruder into my glass plate and tearing up the tape when running the pre-print check. If you happen to read this I would love to know if you have any ideas why this might be happening? First print went okay and this did not happen but every print since then, chaos!
3D Maker Noob - home works fine, centers right up and nice and close to the bed, but when I start a print it happens. when it does the bed scan it goes to the left which put the level off the bed and it just crashes the head. If I let it try to print it does not center back up and tries to do so off on the left as well.
in that case the most likely scenario is that you have to set the centre offset in the slicer settings. basically where the nozzle homes and where the front left corner of the bed begins are not in the same place. so you need to tell the slicer where the bed starts by checking the x-y-x distance from the nozzle to the front left corner of the bed
Thanks. Sounds like something good to look into. I will do some searching and see about finding the settings for that in Cura. This is my first home built printer so I really appreciates the help!
So I am still working on this but I think I can describe it better. I have the same offset auto level sensor that you show and when the printer goes through its leveling check on the left side the sensor is ending up off the bed plate and when it moves down to find the stop point the sensor never detects the bed plate since it is off to the side. It keeps trying to lower it but basically, it never hits that stop point since the sensor if off the bed and so it ends up ramming print head into the print bed. I am going to keep trying, but I am hoping that you might have more ideas as thus far I am striking out on getting this figured out.
Help please! Can you please give me the offsets for your setup. I have the same sensor and brakes setup and have been told the configuration h file for front left mounted 18mm sensor and button, in Skynet Marlin 2.3.2 is the correct one to use. I have done bed levelling but when print goes to start at x-15, y-15, the model is in the centre if the bed in Cura. I am lost as after I setup the machine the first up print was pretty much perfect, now this is happening. Thanks for the dedicated work you put in. CHEERS 🍻
The auto bed level sensor TRONXY XY-008N does not work. The wiring is Black-Brown-Blue on S-Z connector as your instruction. I checked pin volt of connector as 5V(Black), 5V(Brown), Blue(0V). Is there any setting at configuration.h of SkyNet Firmware? How can I check sensor operation not to connect on mother board?
I have been having the problem of setting my Z Offset as the Tronxy instructions say to. The Auto Home leaves the spaces between the nozzle and the bed (0.2mm) and between the PS (sensor) and the bed (2 to 3mm) as instructions say they should be , but when I start the print, the nozzle drops lower and scrapes the bed so has to be aborted fast. Even the setting on the main LCD screen for the Z says it has lowered, too. Example: I set the Z Offset (after much measuring and auto homing) to 1.50 and store it; then during the start of the print it goes to 0.30 and this shows on the main screen. Even having set the Z to 1.19 and stored, it did the same thing on starting a print and ended up recording the 0.30 again. If decreasing the value, and the screen on its own shows a decrease, why is the nozzle not being raised?? It was good to find someone who has worked on a Tronxy, and one with the same blue PS for Auto Levelling that I have, too. If you can help, it will be so much appreciated.
Thanks for the answer, could you tell me what would be the proper support of thingiverse for this sensor and my Anet A6? It would be very helpful for when the sensor reaches me, to be able to print the correct bracket. Thank you very much and greetings from Spain.
I don't care that you go just past the 10 min mark, because you fill that time with valuable information, and entertaining content!
Wish more people did that :)
I spent at least tweo hours searching for how to install that sensor and you are my saving grace. I didn't even see your last video on the firmware. I will not miss another video. Thank you thank you thank you.
Jack Mendoza sorry for being so late in that case :) glad I could help
Do not apologize. You are a time/life saver.
Joe my friend.... you have a knack for making things clear. Om having terrible trouble with a tronxy x3a with "auto leveling" Your video may or may not solve things but you have certainly cleared so many things in my mind. many many thanks
Dave
This is probably the best leveling guide out there. All others skip all the proper steps.
+John Jubei I appreciate it, tried to keep it simple and effective :)
I watched this while assembling my very first printer. thanks for the continued inspiration!
+LogicalWaste welcome! Hope all goes well so you can print all thing :)
Holy mods man. looks like you are getting things tuned in nicely. keep up the good work. I will be watching
+Logan Fs thanks buddy, appreciate the support
Like you I got the Tronxy P802MA when I thought I was buying something better but I can't afford to replace it so I need to get everything out of it I can with minimum outlay, and I'm sure I'm not alone. Tips on making the best of the least would be most welcome.
The mysteries of the Bed-Leveling / Z offset conundrum really highlight the fact we are not dealing with a mature technology here - and adds the excitement of being among a band of poineers! At 68 I'm still an excited kid!
I like how you think I get my nozzle near the bed sensor when homing. Adorable.
Hzy long time i watch your videos... i never leave a comment, just receive the sensor today and install it very fast thnaks of your video... really nice work man, continu its really helpfull for us (noobs new makers). Thanks a lot. (sorry french english :-) )
There are a ton of videos on anet a8 upgrades. I just bought the a6, and I'd love to see upgrade videos on that printer. I know that the printers are similar electronically but physically there are some significant differences. I'd also like to see a bltouch or
3d touch bed leveling setup instal on the a6.
I'm not trying to detract from the a8 crowd , but they have an
abundance of videos to choose from. The a6 crowd is starving for info. 😉
+Marcel LeMay yeah I have the A6 and as soon as I get back I will start working on upgrades for it :)
I love this. Very easy to do and works great!
I like! Keep it up!
thank you :)
Joe, where does the sensor connect to the printer, on the main board?
thanks for tutorial, makes much more sense than the official one from anet :) I still experience a problem that printer won't stop when z sensor light is on. It worked for autolevelling, stopped perfectly but now won't stop after I tired to run a print
This was great, the sensor seems fine. I will check on your channel on what the process is when connected to PC also as that is one thing I may do soon.
Thank you once again Joe You are the tops mate
Been waiting for this before I set mine up.
+TheMixEmperor hope it helps :)
a great video as always thanks for the content. i just ordered and anet a8 and this will be very useful thank you.
+Kylee Colquitt-Davidson you're very welcome :)
Thanks a million! Great explanation, saved me both time and troubles
+M.M.T. Swinkels welcome :)
Can't wait to get home from work now!
haha, that makes two of us buddy :)
Thanks for the awesome guide! I was able to get the same sensor as you to work with a 2mm glass plate after watching!
+Silver0199 good to know :)
Thanks for this buying an anet soon with the auto leveller, not gonna have a problem setting it up now. :)
+Erizon 14 awesome! Happy making! :)
Ty for this vid u are a life saver
Domo IsLit you're very welcome :)
Hi Joe!!
Awesome video. It helped me a lot coming through the calibration. Suscribed. Thanks!!
Where do i connect the sensor in the anet a8 board? All the sockets are already occupied...
@ Do i connect the new leveling sensor in the ZZ axis stop sensor socket?
@@JohnJaggerJack You Must remove original endstop, finish sn04 sensor with New molex plug and connect it in place of original endstop. Pay attention, where at motherboard is placed + - and signal! Its important! If You make a fail - You can damage sensor or motherboard endstop buffer input
You can also keep old endstop and connect it in serial with sn04 sensor. This old endstop Will be a solid protrction in case of sn04 sensor damage. This May prevent nozzle from hitting the table.
Works great! Thanks so much for the video! Appreciate it!
Makes me want to buy the a8 :).. still need to build the Tronxy x1.. so much to do so little time.. Thanks again for a great video!
please we need from you to make the same video but for Anet A6 how to install Skynet and setup for autobed level sensor
thanks
Ahmed Farouk isn't it exactly the same though?
No I think it happen with another way
Ahmed Farouk You think or know? It's the same motherboard with the same hardware (almost), so it should work just fine.
Excellent tutorial! Thank you sir!
Does the proximity sensor work with a glass bed ?
Most helpful .. the TronXY (Anet A8 clone) bed sensor setting instructions are worse than useless: you made the process very easy to follow and it worked well! (hey, TronXY, get this guy to write your instructions!)
Best explanation and I saw many videos about this Topic!! ;)
+Markus Czerwonka thank you very very much. I appreciate it :)
its the same sensor for anet ET4?
Thank you, very useful and simple.
does it work with glas surface ?
Bro this is it, I have that sensor, it drives me nuts... Thank you so much
OctoPrint with a Raspberry Pi 3 upgrade! Great vids!
+Slacking02 it's coming shortly :)
How did you fit the acrylic piece that holds the sensor between the motor and the metal bracket?
+gervqc the screws were long enough to reach the threads
3D Maker Noob The acrylic piece that came with that same sensor is too thick to fit between the motor and bracket. Did you mount yours between the fan and braket?
+gervqc yes I did
Why didn't I think of that?!? Thanks a lot, it fits perfectly!
Another awesome vid! I'll definitely be using this resource and the firmware one as well, once it's time to upgrade! Are you considering the E3d V6 upgrade? I've got one coming in, along side my A8 order, and I'd be interested to see the conversion method in your style. I'm planning on using the stock head for a while until I'm ready for the switch to a bowden setup though, so you've still got time. lol
+Dj Goku E3D V6 is already here and waiting :) i just need to finish comparing the A6 to the A8 and the first thing I'll do is install either the V6 or the titan extruder :)
Is this possible for anet A8 V2?
where can i buy the 90 degree bed wire adapter for the cable track? i don't want to build mine just to take it a part again.
Is there a difference when you use a glass plate?
Do you need to pre heat the Anet before you auto level it for the first time?
Joe thank you for making things easier. I am running skynet 2.3 and octopi on my a8. Unlike this vid my autolevel set up is on the back of the carriage. i have experienced the nozzle/carriage ramming into the hotbed on a few occasions (the sensor was above the hotbed). I now have a grinding and vibration coming from my right z axis rod. I am worried that the motor or the rod are damaged and have not taken anything apart yet. My question is does the location of the leveller matter from the front to the back of the carriage?
+shawn kelly you're welcome first of all :) and no, the location of the sensor should have no bearing whatsoever
Hello Joe, I've followed meticulously the 10 steps but unfortunately the result is not here...
The nozzle makes an auto bed levelling before printing and sinks into the bed after the 2 test points... I totally don't understand why :-(. So I must turn off the printer to avoid to destroy the nozzle and bed... Do you have any explainations / help for that situation ? Thank you in advance and congratulations for your very useful videos.
hey, out of curiosity, have you installed the latest skynet firmware?
Hi, I've just installed the Skynet V1.1 you gave in the above links...
Where can I find the latest skynet firmware ? Do you have a link for it ?
ua-cam.com/video/vedP3jhMpy4/v-deo.html check the video description :)
what are those setting you use for the perfect fit
SO after all that how does the board save the settings?
Do you think this sensor would work with a glass bed?
+Charles Baunsgard this one wouldn't, however I will do a video with an inductive sensor to cover that shortly
Yes, it does.
VERY WELL EXPLAINED, THANKS !
My probe is going way off the board, what are the correct probe offset settings?
For Skynet 2.3.2 and a tronxy XY-08N use the A8- 5buttonkeypad- autolevel- front left sensor/12mm sensor/Configuration.h file
Autohome sends the extruder to the far left so the sensor cannot detect the bed - did you encounter this?
didn't happen to me to be honest - maybe you need to set bed offsets in firmware?
I get the feeling when I tried the Skynet 1.1 previously, the instructions I was using recommended all sorts of changes to the configuration.h. I just deleted and unzipped 1.1 again and it centers now. I will now try and upgrade to 2.3.9 again and see if it works. I also trolled around the webs and found other people had similar issues so I hope my experience here helps someone in the future if it works.
Freshnet did it work?
Willy Jauregui
there's a setting called Z Safe Homing that is disabled by default. im now using skynet 2.4.4 successfully
Is it possible to have an E3D hot end and still have an auto level sensor on the Anet A8?
+AvocadoGamer212 yes of course. You just need to find the right hotend enclosure with a space to install the sensor on it. Many of them on thingiverse :)
HI , Dear this is Nilanjan Roy i have a quarry r u sure in the step 8 you says there should be 1 mm distance between heating plate and nozzle ?
I never felt any need for a sensor on my A8. Only took a minute to set it and I almost never needed to adjust it. I would check it from time to time and it was just spot-on. One thing that I did do however, was mount the printer to a stable platform that was not prone to warping. Extra expense, extra time setting up and testing an induction sensor? Nah, not for me. Old skool works for me, every time!😊👍
is it possible to use this type of sensor with a glass bed? Mayby by adjusting the offset?
+Robin Jansen problem would possibly be that the sensor wouldn't be able to reach the trigger point as the glass is too thick. I will need to check
Any update to this? I have a glass bed and would like to install a bed leveler.
Thanks for all you do here. Your series is my favorite.
waiting on a glass bed to try it out, i will be testing it once i recieve it. after that, i will try to do a BLTouch install :)
Thanks for the great videos I just got the printer about a week ago and and been very happy with my fist prints This is my first 3d Printer Now I'm setting up the auto bed leveling which has worked out great so far.. The one problem I'm just starting to have is that my pla is started to come out from between the nozzle and heating block and lands on print tried to tighten a bit and works out at the start and then it does it again not sure if you have run into this problem? I see there is skynet v2.3.2 is it worth the upgrade? Thanks keep up the great videos
this helped me a lot thank u!!!!!
I installed the software you provided and for the most part, it worked. I am having an issue thou when it auto levels it starts in a more upright position than the center and due to that when it auto levels it puts the sensor that is located on and back of the extruder off the build plate so it can't sense anything.
It does print perfectly in the center thou even with the off home position
What SkyNet configuration did you use? The standard Anet sensor or the 12 mm inductive sensor? Hope you'll still answer.
i'll always reply as long as i'm awake :) the one i used is an inductive proximity sensor which as far as i know is the one that ships with anets when included. this came with the tronxy but they are the same. in terms of configuration, the video shows exactly what i used, nothing less :)
If my 3D Printer after auto-home the extruder isn't in the center? What I have to do?
Hey, Maker Noob
Great video.
Will this sensor work with glass on the hotbed?
i doubt this particular sensor would, however i will be buying a different sensor soon and installing that one that works with a glass bed and will doa video on it
Yes it does.
it does but will be a hassle as the distance offset between the nozzle and the sensor would either be too little seeing as you have to lower it even further in order to compensate for the height of the glass bed against the nozzle, to some extent the sensor might end up even lower as this sensor detects metal surfaces not any surface
In some cases when your PSU is slightly off delivering less than 12V the sensor can be affected, but under normal circumstances the blue 6-36V rectangular form factor sensors work fine @5V leaving about .3 to .5mm to the 3mm glas sheets. Powering these sensors with 12V and connecting the output via voltage divider (2/3 i. e. 1K/1.5K) they even work better.
So do you end up completely replacing the z limit switch with the auto level sensor?
Hello... Great video. I have a tronxy 802 and when I try and auto home... It doesn't send the heat pad. I ensure it was connected in the right spot.. And when I pass a metal under it it works but doesn't recognize the heated... Please help.
Hey Joe, I installed and got everything setup but I am having a problem printing. Its trying to print but it is not feeding any filament. Any ideas as to whats going on?
mine home to front left bed corner???
did you do anything extra to the wiring? the LED doesn't turn on with the 5v connector i think..
make sure you note down the wires as sometimes you might need to switch them around
ok well i only get a 3 point level check , how do you set up a 9 point level check ???
do an AnetA8 mosfet install plz
I noticed there is a menu option for autolevel. This performs the 9 point test. Can we use this menu option and then load a print that does not start with G29?
i've just bought the sensor for my A8. i'm going to look into changing the firmware to skynet as its marlin at the minute. having 5 3D printers that are all different gets a bit confusing lol
does it matter if you have the sensor on the back of the extruder? because i have skynet but not the same auto leveler
it shouldn't make a difference
I don't get it. My z offset (I've played with it quite a bit) is not moving the nozzle even when I autohome it... Should it move only during print? Also, I've seen some place say that they have negative offsets and the lower it gets well, the lower the nozzel gets... so why is it here that the higher the number is, the lower it gets?
I'm having the same issue. I can't figure it out. I've kinda manually manipulated the sensor into a good spot, but the z offset thing does nothing. It would be nice if it worked.
Michael MacDonald Yea actually I just physically make the sensor the right height now. You need a thick business card not thin paper or it will dig into the blue tape.
Reko Starr that's what I did. Finally got everything dialed in well, but clogged my extruder in the process. Taking a break right now. Frustrating, but I'm convinced it will be worth it.
I have the same problem on a TronXY P802MA. Changing the Z offset via the LCD menu does NOT move the stepper motors at all
Hello guys,
anyone found the solution for this?
If i want to put this in the back using the bracket mount similar to the Roko sensor, do i need to change some setting so the sensor will move to the center. The sensor gets in the way when i insert the filament
Hi Joe .... I know this is an old video, How do you do this with a Bowden Setup, and the level sensor is on the right side of the print head instead of the left I cant get my offsets right, i think i should of put the sensor in the back
So very concise Joe, thanks for sharing this. I am looking for a 'budget' printer to add to the channel, thinking a kit. I know you get this a lot, but what do you recommend I start with. And remember, I am a bigger NOOB then you, this would be my first kit.
+Print 3D Channel while this is not the ideal first printer, it definitely is a very good cheap kit, costs less than 200, and the community behind it is impressive. It's also a LOT of fun to print all the upgrades for it. A step up from this would be the A6, better UI, more rigid structure but less tinkering needed. After that it's a CR-10 :)
hello! i have successfully follow your instraction about upgrading the firmware. but now the print is not center the heat bed. how can i resolved this issue?
Can you do a video with a inductive sensor that is cylinder shaped?
+Victor Tan I'll order one and do it ;)
Why your Z screws are not in the "normal" position?
The light doesn't come on the sensor when it is close to metal? Kinda scared to go further in case the sensor is not working.
+Mike Carter you might need to check the wiring as that is most probably your issue. Some sensors need their wiring swapped around
Thanks for the reply, I decided to go ahead and just configure it, it does work, just no light. Not sure which wires I would have to swap around, so just going to leave it alone. From all the googling and youtubing the wire colors are correct and with my luck id end up breaking the connector off. As it was I broke the acrylic backing tightening the screws.. gotta love crazy glue.
I have a question when I use Auto Home. The printer go x:131 y:153. It's OK?
That was definitely a different way to set up the auto leveling, and it will work just fine. It was easier than what I just went through using the Ardunio codes and all. Upgrading to skynet messed up my extrusion values that I was perfect with the stock firmware. I was able to adjust the values in the Ardunio method and don't know if there is a similar was of adjusting like you did with the self leveling.
+John Henderson I did a video on extrusion multipliers the noob way using matter control :) it should be able to work with the Anet, no codes required
Step 1..... Where do you connect it to the board? S-Z, replace current connection.
Yeah this would be great to know
Good Morning. Where can I buy this orange kit? Thanks.
+Berantis it's all 3d printed, I left all the link in the upgrade video I did for the Anet
can you make a video on how to instal this sensor on the Anet A6 there are NON on youtube
+Johnfulky will find a way :)
3D Maker Noob thanks so much
Hi
Im wondering will this sensor will work on Wanhao i3
what would the X and Y offset be for this probe. and what config.h are you all using.
Will this sensor work if you have a glass bed
Help!! I followed your instructions about installing it from previous video, and after turning the printer ON and placing a metal object below the sensor the light turns on as it should do... everything goes ok until now. But when I do the Home All, the Z-stop never stops even when the sensor and the exruder smashes the bed. I have to turn off the printer to make it stop... What am I doing wrong? Please help
Nevermind.. solved it... the auto level sensor was very high but now is working good. Thanks anyway and thanks again for the video!
Hi amazing interesting. But can I tell you about the problem I still have : I followed your tuto the best I could and the thing is globally working. BUT I still notice when printing the first layer, for the left size of my printing, the bowden is too low and for the right side, it is too high. I am using a tree points levelling. Is there a way to fine tune the mesure of the tree points or should I use another method ? Thanks a lot (and sorry for my very bad english writing)
How do you do this with a glass bed?
Hi i was wondering which mm/s you print at and what retraction speeds you use
EXCELLENT VIDEO LIKE ALWAYS! Could you do it for the CR-10?? and also, is the sensor capacitive or inductive? Thank you!
+Tom Explorador thank you for staying of all :) the sensor is inductive. I believe it's possible but requires a few upgrades
Thanks!
This level sensor can work with glass?
Hi, 3d maker noob. I followed your instructions, which were outstanding Thank you, but now my printer extruder is shooting all the way over to the left and mashing the extruder into my glass plate and tearing up the tape when running the pre-print check. If you happen to read this I would love to know if you have any ideas why this might be happening? First print went okay and this did not happen but every print since then, chaos!
does it do it when you click on home all or when you start a print?
3D Maker Noob - home works fine, centers right up and nice and close to the bed, but when I start a print it happens. when it does the bed scan it goes to the left which put the level off the bed and it just crashes the head. If I let it try to print it does not center back up and tries to do so off on the left as well.
in that case the most likely scenario is that you have to set the centre offset in the slicer settings. basically where the nozzle homes and where the front left corner of the bed begins are not in the same place. so you need to tell the slicer where the bed starts by checking the x-y-x distance from the nozzle to the front left corner of the bed
Thanks. Sounds like something good to look into. I will do some searching and see about finding the settings for that in Cura. This is my first home built printer so I really appreciates the help!
So I am still working on this but I think I can describe it better. I have the same offset auto level sensor that you show and when the printer goes through its leveling check on the left side the sensor is ending up off the bed plate and when it moves down to find the stop point the sensor never detects the bed plate since it is off to the side. It keeps trying to lower it but basically, it never hits that stop point since the sensor if off the bed and so it ends up ramming print head into the print bed. I am going to keep trying, but I am hoping that you might have more ideas as thus far I am striking out on getting this figured out.
Help please! Can you please give me the offsets for your setup. I have the same sensor and brakes setup and have been told the configuration h file for front left mounted 18mm sensor and button, in Skynet Marlin 2.3.2 is the correct one to use. I have done bed levelling but when print goes to start at x-15, y-15, the model is in the centre if the bed in Cura. I am lost as after I setup the machine the first up print was pretty much perfect, now this is happening. Thanks for the dedicated work you put in. CHEERS 🍻
The auto bed level sensor TRONXY XY-008N does not work. The wiring is Black-Brown-Blue on S-Z connector as your instruction. I checked pin volt of connector as 5V(Black), 5V(Brown), Blue(0V). Is there any setting at configuration.h of SkyNet Firmware? How can I check sensor operation not to connect on mother board?
The axes of the z-engines of my Anet A8 came buckled. Would you like to open these engines and only change their axis?
+Roberto Santos it's probably much easier to replace them, depending on the damage
I have been having the problem of setting my Z Offset as the Tronxy instructions say to. The Auto Home leaves the spaces between the nozzle and the bed (0.2mm) and between the PS (sensor) and the bed (2 to 3mm) as instructions say they should be , but when I start the print, the nozzle drops lower and scrapes the bed so has to be aborted fast. Even the setting on the main LCD screen for the Z says it has lowered, too. Example: I set the Z Offset (after much measuring and auto homing) to 1.50 and store it; then during the start of the print it goes to 0.30 and this shows on the main screen. Even having set the Z to 1.19 and stored, it did the same thing on starting a print and ended up recording the 0.30 again. If decreasing the value, and the screen on its own shows a decrease, why is the nozzle not being raised?? It was good to find someone who has worked on a Tronxy, and one with the same blue PS for Auto Levelling that I have, too. If you can help, it will be so much appreciated.
Hello,
Does this sensor work for an Anet A6?
+fustris yes it should
Thanks for the answer, could you tell me what would be the proper support of thingiverse for this sensor and my Anet A6?
It would be very helpful for when the sensor reaches me, to be able to print the correct bracket.
Thank you very much and greetings from Spain.
can i put that start code into cura new to 3d printing and cura is my preffered slicer?
Callum Porteous of course, works just the same :)
3D Maker Noob ok, thank you very much
+Callum Porteous welcome :)