I don't care that you go just past the 10 min mark, because you fill that time with valuable information, and entertaining content! Wish more people did that :)
I spent at least tweo hours searching for how to install that sensor and you are my saving grace. I didn't even see your last video on the firmware. I will not miss another video. Thank you thank you thank you.
Joe my friend.... you have a knack for making things clear. Om having terrible trouble with a tronxy x3a with "auto leveling" Your video may or may not solve things but you have certainly cleared so many things in my mind. many many thanks Dave
I never felt any need for a sensor on my A8. Only took a minute to set it and I almost never needed to adjust it. I would check it from time to time and it was just spot-on. One thing that I did do however, was mount the printer to a stable platform that was not prone to warping. Extra expense, extra time setting up and testing an induction sensor? Nah, not for me. Old skool works for me, every time!😊👍
Like you I got the Tronxy P802MA when I thought I was buying something better but I can't afford to replace it so I need to get everything out of it I can with minimum outlay, and I'm sure I'm not alone. Tips on making the best of the least would be most welcome. The mysteries of the Bed-Leveling / Z offset conundrum really highlight the fact we are not dealing with a mature technology here - and adds the excitement of being among a band of poineers! At 68 I'm still an excited kid!
There are a ton of videos on anet a8 upgrades. I just bought the a6, and I'd love to see upgrade videos on that printer. I know that the printers are similar electronically but physically there are some significant differences. I'd also like to see a bltouch or 3d touch bed leveling setup instal on the a6. I'm not trying to detract from the a8 crowd , but they have an abundance of videos to choose from. The a6 crowd is starving for info. 😉
thanks for tutorial, makes much more sense than the official one from anet :) I still experience a problem that printer won't stop when z sensor light is on. It worked for autolevelling, stopped perfectly but now won't stop after I tired to run a print
i've just bought the sensor for my A8. i'm going to look into changing the firmware to skynet as its marlin at the minute. having 5 3D printers that are all different gets a bit confusing lol
Most helpful .. the TronXY (Anet A8 clone) bed sensor setting instructions are worse than useless: you made the process very easy to follow and it worked well! (hey, TronXY, get this guy to write your instructions!)
This was great, the sensor seems fine. I will check on your channel on what the process is when connected to PC also as that is one thing I may do soon.
just done this with my tronxy x5sa after watching this video. To find my sensor was way to low to start with and giving me problems. and then found out i could not move the sensor enough to sort it. so a quick print later i now have a sensor auto level that works and a printer that prints with out having to mess about for each print i start
I installed the software you provided and for the most part, it worked. I am having an issue thou when it auto levels it starts in a more upright position than the center and due to that when it auto levels it puts the sensor that is located on and back of the extruder off the build plate so it can't sense anything.
Help please! Can you please give me the offsets for your setup. I have the same sensor and brakes setup and have been told the configuration h file for front left mounted 18mm sensor and button, in Skynet Marlin 2.3.2 is the correct one to use. I have done bed levelling but when print goes to start at x-15, y-15, the model is in the centre if the bed in Cura. I am lost as after I setup the machine the first up print was pretty much perfect, now this is happening. Thanks for the dedicated work you put in. CHEERS 🍻
That was definitely a different way to set up the auto leveling, and it will work just fine. It was easier than what I just went through using the Ardunio codes and all. Upgrading to skynet messed up my extrusion values that I was perfect with the stock firmware. I was able to adjust the values in the Ardunio method and don't know if there is a similar was of adjusting like you did with the self leveling.
Hi Joe, thank you for this tutorial it's awesome. I was just wondering if you could do a Bowden upgrade/install.... I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks
Awesome video thank you. I would have added one thing though, editing the firmware to show how you can offset the nozzle from the sensor. Still great video, thank you!
That comment really helped me, and tbh you werent very clear when explaining the order of the wires. Maybe in the future you should try and take your time to explain in more depth when it comes to wiring. Howvever great video keep up the good work ;)
Joe thank you for making things easier. I am running skynet 2.3 and octopi on my a8. Unlike this vid my autolevel set up is on the back of the carriage. i have experienced the nozzle/carriage ramming into the hotbed on a few occasions (the sensor was above the hotbed). I now have a grinding and vibration coming from my right z axis rod. I am worried that the motor or the rod are damaged and have not taken anything apart yet. My question is does the location of the leveller matter from the front to the back of the carriage?
Thanks for the great videos I just got the printer about a week ago and and been very happy with my fist prints This is my first 3d Printer Now I'm setting up the auto bed leveling which has worked out great so far.. The one problem I'm just starting to have is that my pla is started to come out from between the nozzle and heating block and lands on print tried to tighten a bit and works out at the start and then it does it again not sure if you have run into this problem? I see there is skynet v2.3.2 is it worth the upgrade? Thanks keep up the great videos
Hello... Great video. I have a tronxy 802 and when I try and auto home... It doesn't send the heat pad. I ensure it was connected in the right spot.. And when I pass a metal under it it works but doesn't recognize the heated... Please help.
SN04-N not with 2 layers tape working. Got a bad response on aluminium. It's arround 1 millimeter. When I hold it above the the Nema Stepper or other metal (not alluminium) the range is 8 mllimeter. Going to try he inductive one and otherwse the needle.
If i want to put this in the back using the bracket mount similar to the Roko sensor, do i need to change some setting so the sensor will move to the center. The sensor gets in the way when i insert the filament
Thanks I have bought one and have to wait till we move so I can assemble it....This is one thing I wanted to add to it....BTW I guess there is no need to level using a bubble level..?? as it may be out of square with the frame...???? Rgds Laurie
Hi it is the old carpenters tool... for leveling floors walls etc....slightly curved glass tube with light oil and a bubble in it....try googling carpenters level or bubble level Rgds Laurie
LWJCarroll hi, you cant use bubble level cause bubble level used to level an object to gravity of the earth. The bed led in 3D printer is to measure to make sure the intruder is parallel with the bed. So when the intruder drawing, it will be even on the bed.
Hi amazing interesting. But can I tell you about the problem I still have : I followed your tuto the best I could and the thing is globally working. BUT I still notice when printing the first layer, for the left size of my printing, the bowden is too low and for the right side, it is too high. I am using a tree points levelling. Is there a way to fine tune the mesure of the tree points or should I use another method ? Thanks a lot (and sorry for my very bad english writing)
Awesome... Just a request... Soldering is a pretty useful skill when it comes to a 3d printer like this for example the hot bed. maybe you could find time to show how you would solder since most other videos online are focused on very different applications to soldering and not 3d printers.
The auto bed level sensor TRONXY XY-008N does not work. The wiring is Black-Brown-Blue on S-Z connector as your instruction. I checked pin volt of connector as 5V(Black), 5V(Brown), Blue(0V). Is there any setting at configuration.h of SkyNet Firmware? How can I check sensor operation not to connect on mother board?
Hzy long time i watch your videos... i never leave a comment, just receive the sensor today and install it very fast thnaks of your video... really nice work man, continu its really helpfull for us (noobs new makers). Thanks a lot. (sorry french english :-) )
I have been having the problem of setting my Z Offset as the Tronxy instructions say to. The Auto Home leaves the spaces between the nozzle and the bed (0.2mm) and between the PS (sensor) and the bed (2 to 3mm) as instructions say they should be , but when I start the print, the nozzle drops lower and scrapes the bed so has to be aborted fast. Even the setting on the main LCD screen for the Z says it has lowered, too. Example: I set the Z Offset (after much measuring and auto homing) to 1.50 and store it; then during the start of the print it goes to 0.30 and this shows on the main screen. Even having set the Z to 1.19 and stored, it did the same thing on starting a print and ended up recording the 0.30 again. If decreasing the value, and the screen on its own shows a decrease, why is the nozzle not being raised?? It was good to find someone who has worked on a Tronxy, and one with the same blue PS for Auto Levelling that I have, too. If you can help, it will be so much appreciated.
Hello Joe, I've followed meticulously the 10 steps but unfortunately the result is not here... The nozzle makes an auto bed levelling before printing and sinks into the bed after the 2 test points... I totally don't understand why :-(. So I must turn off the printer to avoid to destroy the nozzle and bed... Do you have any explainations / help for that situation ? Thank you in advance and congratulations for your very useful videos.
Hey Joe, I installed and got everything setup but I am having a problem printing. Its trying to print but it is not feeding any filament. Any ideas as to whats going on?
my nozzle homes to the left first and then moves all the way down but because I don't have my end switch plugged in it just keeps going down so I have to unplug my printer can someone please help
Actually, it is easier than this. Add and check the sensors manually so it lit up before the hot end hits the heat bed (make room for glass bed). Can be checked with M119 G code. In the firmware Marlin source, see to that turn on secure Z homing, Z_SAFE_HOMING, so you don't end up Z homing outside the bed. And turn on bed leveling and select method to level. Then manually add these commands. Can be done from repetier or from the serial monitor in Arduino G28 ; Home the device G29 ; Auto probe. M501; print current settings G1 X110 Y110 Z10 ; Go to the X and Y middle, 10 mm above the Z0 ; Step down to zero manually, or if brave (stupid like me) just go for it G1 Z0 ; Lower head to zero hight ; Us G92 tell the printer temporary that your head is 10 mm above, so you get some head room so ; you can lower manually to right hight. You can't manually go below Z0. ; One could use that in the slicer, but better to do a permanent setting that is stored in the Firmware G92 Z10 ; Temporary tell printer the heater is 10 mm higher than what it is ; Adjust the Z to right paper thickness. Use control buttons or software or G1 commands to move in steps of 0.01 mm ; Continue when right paper thickness height. M114 ; To print how much you lower the head under the previous 10 mm set with G92 (Check Z value printed last on line) ; Calculate (read Z) - 10 and add to next command, assume -2.0 here. M851 Z-2.0 ; That is, lover the heat head Z0 with 2 mm from current Z0 height. M500 ; Save all values, can use M501 to check that it was stored ; Test G28 ; Home G29 ; Auto probe G1 X110 Y110 Z10 G1 Z0 ; Check if ok, if not adjust the M851 Z value above and do a M500 to save M501 ; Print settings, check value for M851 Z Now you only need to add G29 after G28 in your slicer software in the G-code header, like did above. (From memory, check Merlin software or other sources) ua-cam.com/video/G-TwWfUzXpc/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/EcGFLwj0pnA/v-deo.html (a bit old)
Hi Joe .... I know this is an old video, How do you do this with a Bowden Setup, and the level sensor is on the right side of the print head instead of the left I cant get my offsets right, i think i should of put the sensor in the back
i'll always reply as long as i'm awake :) the one i used is an inductive proximity sensor which as far as i know is the one that ships with anets when included. this came with the tronxy but they are the same. in terms of configuration, the video shows exactly what i used, nothing less :)
hi, i have a genentech presa i3 pro c, i bought it 2 month ago and i didn't 1 print because it doesn't work well , i can't find the settings for this print, can you help me??
Hi people, First thank you very much for this tutorial, it was very useful to me. I followed all 10 steps and my Anet A8 worked fine for a while (few months). But now when I try the Auto Leveling the display shows an error, "endstop hit: Z". I recalibrate bed level, level sensor, cleaned Z screws without sucess. The error persists and I have no idea. Would you please help me? The printer's firmware is the Skynet3D 1.1
Is this tronxy sensory really work? Mine never work. Do you any advise or shall I throw it and buy bltouch. I m completely tried hitting nozzle after some days..
I noticed there is a menu option for autolevel. This performs the 9 point test. Can we use this menu option and then load a print that does not start with G29?
hello! i have successfully follow your instraction about upgrading the firmware. but now the print is not center the heat bed. how can i resolved this issue?
Thanks for this vid also. I am stuck and I was wondering if you had any idea on this. Its all find up to the z-axis offset. I set it to 60, 70 or80+ but it makes no change. Stays the same level of gap. I do save to memory and then load from memory. Also tried rebooting but no change. Any ideas?
Hello me friend thanks for the video it works on the tronxy x3 as bet but the sensor is Attached to the front mount so I have 2 more screws than you but i followed you r 10 seps and it works great
Help!! I followed your instructions about installing it from previous video, and after turning the printer ON and placing a metal object below the sensor the light turns on as it should do... everything goes ok until now. But when I do the Home All, the Z-stop never stops even when the sensor and the exruder smashes the bed. I have to turn off the printer to make it stop... What am I doing wrong? Please help
@@JohnJaggerJack You Must remove original endstop, finish sn04 sensor with New molex plug and connect it in place of original endstop. Pay attention, where at motherboard is placed + - and signal! Its important! If You make a fail - You can damage sensor or motherboard endstop buffer input You can also keep old endstop and connect it in serial with sn04 sensor. This old endstop Will be a solid protrction in case of sn04 sensor damage. This May prevent nozzle from hitting the table.
3D Maker Noob The acrylic piece that came with that same sensor is too thick to fit between the motor and bracket. Did you mount yours between the fan and braket?
after installing Skynet, mounting the sensor( blue anet sensor) ran the setup prepare then auto home adjusted the nozzle and the sensor , the machine homes then goes up about 3\4" and sets there. and if you home again it goes up another 3\4". what am I doing wrong? I can't get it to go back down even through Cura.
I don't get it. My z offset (I've played with it quite a bit) is not moving the nozzle even when I autohome it... Should it move only during print? Also, I've seen some place say that they have negative offsets and the lower it gets well, the lower the nozzel gets... so why is it here that the higher the number is, the lower it gets?
I'm having the same issue. I can't figure it out. I've kinda manually manipulated the sensor into a good spot, but the z offset thing does nothing. It would be nice if it worked.
Michael MacDonald Yea actually I just physically make the sensor the right height now. You need a thick business card not thin paper or it will dig into the blue tape.
Reko Starr that's what I did. Finally got everything dialed in well, but clogged my extruder in the process. Taking a break right now. Frustrating, but I'm convinced it will be worth it.
So very concise Joe, thanks for sharing this. I am looking for a 'budget' printer to add to the channel, thinking a kit. I know you get this a lot, but what do you recommend I start with. And remember, I am a bigger NOOB then you, this would be my first kit.
+Print 3D Channel while this is not the ideal first printer, it definitely is a very good cheap kit, costs less than 200, and the community behind it is impressive. It's also a LOT of fun to print all the upgrades for it. A step up from this would be the A6, better UI, more rigid structure but less tinkering needed. After that it's a CR-10 :)
Best as I've been lost for the past 6 days....on Mac.I do have one problem to get through. And that is the offset doesn show on my 1st screen and that the nozzle is about 2 mm above bed..my home position is showing 10 and must be close.Can you advise?
+AvocadoGamer212 yes of course. You just need to find the right hotend enclosure with a space to install the sensor on it. Many of them on thingiverse :)
I got a problem here need help :( I already install my auto bed level sensor , but when I press the Skynet firmware to auto home its go to the left front corner and will not stop , and its show error: too far . hope you know what I mean , so how to make it start from the middle ? Thanks :)
This is probably the best leveling guide out there. All others skip all the proper steps.
+John Jubei I appreciate it, tried to keep it simple and effective :)
I don't care that you go just past the 10 min mark, because you fill that time with valuable information, and entertaining content!
Wish more people did that :)
I spent at least tweo hours searching for how to install that sensor and you are my saving grace. I didn't even see your last video on the firmware. I will not miss another video. Thank you thank you thank you.
Jack Mendoza sorry for being so late in that case :) glad I could help
Do not apologize. You are a time/life saver.
Joe my friend.... you have a knack for making things clear. Om having terrible trouble with a tronxy x3a with "auto leveling" Your video may or may not solve things but you have certainly cleared so many things in my mind. many many thanks
Dave
I never felt any need for a sensor on my A8. Only took a minute to set it and I almost never needed to adjust it. I would check it from time to time and it was just spot-on. One thing that I did do however, was mount the printer to a stable platform that was not prone to warping. Extra expense, extra time setting up and testing an induction sensor? Nah, not for me. Old skool works for me, every time!😊👍
Like you I got the Tronxy P802MA when I thought I was buying something better but I can't afford to replace it so I need to get everything out of it I can with minimum outlay, and I'm sure I'm not alone. Tips on making the best of the least would be most welcome.
The mysteries of the Bed-Leveling / Z offset conundrum really highlight the fact we are not dealing with a mature technology here - and adds the excitement of being among a band of poineers! At 68 I'm still an excited kid!
I like how you think I get my nozzle near the bed sensor when homing. Adorable.
There are a ton of videos on anet a8 upgrades. I just bought the a6, and I'd love to see upgrade videos on that printer. I know that the printers are similar electronically but physically there are some significant differences. I'd also like to see a bltouch or
3d touch bed leveling setup instal on the a6.
I'm not trying to detract from the a8 crowd , but they have an
abundance of videos to choose from. The a6 crowd is starving for info. 😉
+Marcel LeMay yeah I have the A6 and as soon as I get back I will start working on upgrades for it :)
thanks for tutorial, makes much more sense than the official one from anet :) I still experience a problem that printer won't stop when z sensor light is on. It worked for autolevelling, stopped perfectly but now won't stop after I tired to run a print
I watched this while assembling my very first printer. thanks for the continued inspiration!
+LogicalWaste welcome! Hope all goes well so you can print all thing :)
i've just bought the sensor for my A8. i'm going to look into changing the firmware to skynet as its marlin at the minute. having 5 3D printers that are all different gets a bit confusing lol
Holy mods man. looks like you are getting things tuned in nicely. keep up the good work. I will be watching
+Logan Fs thanks buddy, appreciate the support
Most helpful .. the TronXY (Anet A8 clone) bed sensor setting instructions are worse than useless: you made the process very easy to follow and it worked well! (hey, TronXY, get this guy to write your instructions!)
do an AnetA8 mosfet install plz
This was great, the sensor seems fine. I will check on your channel on what the process is when connected to PC also as that is one thing I may do soon.
just done this with my tronxy x5sa after watching this video.
To find my sensor was way to low to start with and giving me problems.
and then found out i could not move the sensor enough to sort it. so a quick print later i now have a sensor auto level that works and a printer that prints with out having to mess about for each print i start
Thanks for this buying an anet soon with the auto leveller, not gonna have a problem setting it up now. :)
+Erizon 14 awesome! Happy making! :)
Thanks for the awesome guide! I was able to get the same sensor as you to work with a 2mm glass plate after watching!
+Silver0199 good to know :)
Does the proximity sensor work with a glass bed ?
I installed the software you provided and for the most part, it worked. I am having an issue thou when it auto levels it starts in a more upright position than the center and due to that when it auto levels it puts the sensor that is located on and back of the extruder off the build plate so it can't sense anything.
It does print perfectly in the center thou even with the off home position
Bro this is it, I have that sensor, it drives me nuts... Thank you so much
where can i buy the 90 degree bed wire adapter for the cable track? i don't want to build mine just to take it a part again.
Help please! Can you please give me the offsets for your setup. I have the same sensor and brakes setup and have been told the configuration h file for front left mounted 18mm sensor and button, in Skynet Marlin 2.3.2 is the correct one to use. I have done bed levelling but when print goes to start at x-15, y-15, the model is in the centre if the bed in Cura. I am lost as after I setup the machine the first up print was pretty much perfect, now this is happening. Thanks for the dedicated work you put in. CHEERS 🍻
That was definitely a different way to set up the auto leveling, and it will work just fine. It was easier than what I just went through using the Ardunio codes and all. Upgrading to skynet messed up my extrusion values that I was perfect with the stock firmware. I was able to adjust the values in the Ardunio method and don't know if there is a similar was of adjusting like you did with the self leveling.
+John Henderson I did a video on extrusion multipliers the noob way using matter control :) it should be able to work with the Anet, no codes required
Hi Joe, thank you for this tutorial it's awesome.
I was just wondering if you could do a Bowden upgrade/install.... I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks
+chris wipatothai I will do it with an E3D V6 shortly :)
3D Maker Noob where is it I can't find it
HI , Dear this is Nilanjan Roy i have a quarry r u sure in the step 8 you says there should be 1 mm distance between heating plate and nozzle ?
I have a question when I use Auto Home. The printer go x:131 y:153. It's OK?
Awesome video thank you. I would have added one thing though, editing the firmware to show how you can offset the nozzle from the sensor. Still great video, thank you!
If your sensor is not working - check your cable connections. They should be BLUE - BROWN - BLACK
yep, i mentioned that in the install video :)
ah ok - because it took me a bit of time. :-D
That comment really helped me, and tbh you werent very clear when explaining the order of the wires. Maybe in the future you should try and take your time to explain in more depth when it comes to wiring. Howvever great video keep up the good work ;)
YOU SAVED ME!
Mario Cimmino Yeh same. XD
Makes me want to buy the a8 :).. still need to build the Tronxy x1.. so much to do so little time.. Thanks again for a great video!
Joe thank you for making things easier. I am running skynet 2.3 and octopi on my a8. Unlike this vid my autolevel set up is on the back of the carriage. i have experienced the nozzle/carriage ramming into the hotbed on a few occasions (the sensor was above the hotbed). I now have a grinding and vibration coming from my right z axis rod. I am worried that the motor or the rod are damaged and have not taken anything apart yet. My question is does the location of the leveller matter from the front to the back of the carriage?
+shawn kelly you're welcome first of all :) and no, the location of the sensor should have no bearing whatsoever
Step 1..... Where do you connect it to the board? S-Z, replace current connection.
Yeah this would be great to know
Can't wait to get home from work now!
haha, that makes two of us buddy :)
Thanks for the great videos I just got the printer about a week ago and and been very happy with my fist prints This is my first 3d Printer Now I'm setting up the auto bed leveling which has worked out great so far.. The one problem I'm just starting to have is that my pla is started to come out from between the nozzle and heating block and lands on print tried to tighten a bit and works out at the start and then it does it again not sure if you have run into this problem? I see there is skynet v2.3.2 is it worth the upgrade? Thanks keep up the great videos
Hello... Great video. I have a tronxy 802 and when I try and auto home... It doesn't send the heat pad. I ensure it was connected in the right spot.. And when I pass a metal under it it works but doesn't recognize the heated... Please help.
OctoPrint with a Raspberry Pi 3 upgrade! Great vids!
+Slacking02 it's coming shortly :)
SN04-N not with 2 layers tape working. Got a bad response on aluminium. It's arround 1 millimeter. When I hold it above the the Nema Stepper or other metal (not alluminium) the range is 8 mllimeter. Going to try he inductive one and otherwse the needle.
Didn't try a pull up or pull down. Will figre that out first
3dprint.wiki/reprap/anet/a8/improvement/autobedleveling is where the story is.
If i want to put this in the back using the bracket mount similar to the Roko sensor, do i need to change some setting so the sensor will move to the center. The sensor gets in the way when i insert the filament
I prefer this way much more than using PronterFace. Thanks!!
welcome :)
please we need from you to make the same video but for Anet A6 how to install Skynet and setup for autobed level sensor
thanks
Ahmed Farouk isn't it exactly the same though?
No I think it happen with another way
Ahmed Farouk You think or know? It's the same motherboard with the same hardware (almost), so it should work just fine.
If my 3D Printer after auto-home the extruder isn't in the center? What I have to do?
Thanks I have bought one and have to wait till we move so I can assemble it....This is one thing I wanted to add to it....BTW I guess there is no need to level using a bubble level..?? as it may be out of square with the frame...???? Rgds Laurie
hey, to be honest not sure what the bubble level is?
Hi it is the old carpenters tool... for leveling floors walls etc....slightly curved glass tube with light oil and a bubble in it....try googling carpenters level or bubble level Rgds Laurie
LWJCarroll hi, you cant use bubble level cause bubble level used to level an object to gravity of the earth. The bed led in 3D printer is to measure to make sure the intruder is parallel with the bed. So when the intruder drawing, it will be even on the bed.
Hi amazing interesting. But can I tell you about the problem I still have : I followed your tuto the best I could and the thing is globally working. BUT I still notice when printing the first layer, for the left size of my printing, the bowden is too low and for the right side, it is too high. I am using a tree points levelling. Is there a way to fine tune the mesure of the tree points or should I use another method ? Thanks a lot (and sorry for my very bad english writing)
Been waiting for this before I set mine up.
+TheMixEmperor hope it helps :)
Awesome...
Just a request... Soldering is a pretty useful skill when it comes to a 3d printer like this for example the hot bed. maybe you could find time to show how you would solder since most other videos online are focused on very different applications to soldering and not 3d printers.
i could definitely make something, will include it in my mosfet installation video which should come next week :)
sounds great!!!
Joe, where does the sensor connect to the printer, on the main board?
The auto bed level sensor TRONXY XY-008N does not work. The wiring is Black-Brown-Blue on S-Z connector as your instruction. I checked pin volt of connector as 5V(Black), 5V(Brown), Blue(0V). Is there any setting at configuration.h of SkyNet Firmware? How can I check sensor operation not to connect on mother board?
does it work with glas surface ?
Hzy long time i watch your videos... i never leave a comment, just receive the sensor today and install it very fast thnaks of your video... really nice work man, continu its really helpfull for us (noobs new makers). Thanks a lot. (sorry french english :-) )
does it matter if you have the sensor on the back of the extruder? because i have skynet but not the same auto leveler
it shouldn't make a difference
I have been having the problem of setting my Z Offset as the Tronxy instructions say to. The Auto Home leaves the spaces between the nozzle and the bed (0.2mm) and between the PS (sensor) and the bed (2 to 3mm) as instructions say they should be , but when I start the print, the nozzle drops lower and scrapes the bed so has to be aborted fast. Even the setting on the main LCD screen for the Z says it has lowered, too. Example: I set the Z Offset (after much measuring and auto homing) to 1.50 and store it; then during the start of the print it goes to 0.30 and this shows on the main screen. Even having set the Z to 1.19 and stored, it did the same thing on starting a print and ended up recording the 0.30 again. If decreasing the value, and the screen on its own shows a decrease, why is the nozzle not being raised?? It was good to find someone who has worked on a Tronxy, and one with the same blue PS for Auto Levelling that I have, too. If you can help, it will be so much appreciated.
Is this possible for anet A8 V2?
Hello Joe, I've followed meticulously the 10 steps but unfortunately the result is not here...
The nozzle makes an auto bed levelling before printing and sinks into the bed after the 2 test points... I totally don't understand why :-(. So I must turn off the printer to avoid to destroy the nozzle and bed... Do you have any explainations / help for that situation ? Thank you in advance and congratulations for your very useful videos.
hey, out of curiosity, have you installed the latest skynet firmware?
Hi, I've just installed the Skynet V1.1 you gave in the above links...
Where can I find the latest skynet firmware ? Do you have a link for it ?
ua-cam.com/video/vedP3jhMpy4/v-deo.html check the video description :)
Hey Joe, I installed and got everything setup but I am having a problem printing. Its trying to print but it is not feeding any filament. Any ideas as to whats going on?
what would the X and Y offset be for this probe. and what config.h are you all using.
my nozzle homes to the left first and then moves all the way down but because I don't have my end switch plugged in it just keeps going down so I have to unplug my printer can someone please help
Actually, it is easier than this.
Add and check the sensors manually so it lit up before the hot end hits the heat bed (make room for glass bed). Can be checked with M119 G code.
In the firmware Marlin source, see to that turn on secure Z homing, Z_SAFE_HOMING, so you don't end up Z homing outside the bed. And turn on bed leveling and select method to level.
Then manually add these commands. Can be done from repetier or from the serial monitor in Arduino
G28 ; Home the device
G29 ; Auto probe.
M501; print current settings
G1 X110 Y110 Z10 ; Go to the X and Y middle, 10 mm above the Z0
; Step down to zero manually, or if brave (stupid like me) just go for it
G1 Z0 ; Lower head to zero hight
; Us G92 tell the printer temporary that your head is 10 mm above, so you get some head room so
; you can lower manually to right hight. You can't manually go below Z0.
; One could use that in the slicer, but better to do a permanent setting that is stored in the Firmware
G92 Z10 ; Temporary tell printer the heater is 10 mm higher than what it is
; Adjust the Z to right paper thickness. Use control buttons or software or G1 commands to move in steps of 0.01 mm
; Continue when right paper thickness height.
M114 ; To print how much you lower the head under the previous 10 mm set with G92 (Check Z value printed last on line)
; Calculate (read Z) - 10 and add to next command, assume -2.0 here.
M851 Z-2.0 ; That is, lover the heat head Z0 with 2 mm from current Z0 height.
M500 ; Save all values, can use M501 to check that it was stored
; Test
G28 ; Home
G29 ; Auto probe
G1 X110 Y110 Z10
G1 Z0
; Check if ok, if not adjust the M851 Z value above and do a M500 to save
M501 ; Print settings, check value for M851 Z
Now you only need to add G29 after G28 in your slicer software in the G-code header, like did above.
(From memory, check Merlin software or other sources)
ua-cam.com/video/G-TwWfUzXpc/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/EcGFLwj0pnA/v-deo.html (a bit old)
I love this. Very easy to do and works great!
Hi Joe .... I know this is an old video, How do you do this with a Bowden Setup, and the level sensor is on the right side of the print head instead of the left I cant get my offsets right, i think i should of put the sensor in the back
What SkyNet configuration did you use? The standard Anet sensor or the 12 mm inductive sensor? Hope you'll still answer.
i'll always reply as long as i'm awake :) the one i used is an inductive proximity sensor which as far as i know is the one that ships with anets when included. this came with the tronxy but they are the same. in terms of configuration, the video shows exactly what i used, nothing less :)
its the same sensor for anet ET4?
hi, i have a genentech presa i3 pro c, i bought it 2 month ago and i didn't 1 print because it doesn't work well , i can't find the settings for this print, can you help me??
+Giordano Paolo Cicconi unfortunately I never used that printer so will be extremely difficult for me to find settings for you :(
Hi people,
First thank you very much for this tutorial, it was very useful to me. I followed all 10 steps and my Anet A8 worked fine for a while (few months). But now when I try the Auto Leveling the display shows an error, "endstop hit: Z". I recalibrate bed level, level sensor, cleaned Z screws without sucess. The error persists and I have no idea. Would you please help me? The printer's firmware is the Skynet3D 1.1
Is this tronxy sensory really work? Mine never work. Do you any advise or shall I throw it and buy bltouch. I m completely tried hitting nozzle after some days..
I noticed there is a menu option for autolevel. This performs the 9 point test. Can we use this menu option and then load a print that does not start with G29?
hello! i have successfully follow your instraction about upgrading the firmware. but now the print is not center the heat bed. how can i resolved this issue?
Thanks for this vid also. I am stuck and I was wondering if you had any idea on this.
Its all find up to the z-axis offset. I set it to 60, 70 or80+ but it makes no change. Stays the same level of gap.
I do save to memory and then load from memory. Also tried rebooting but no change.
Any ideas?
So do you end up completely replacing the z limit switch with the auto level sensor?
Do you need to pre heat the Anet before you auto level it for the first time?
Thank you once again Joe You are the tops mate
Hello me friend thanks for the video it works on the tronxy x3 as bet but the sensor is Attached to the front mount so I have 2 more screws than you but i followed you r 10 seps and it works great
My probe is going way off the board, what are the correct probe offset settings?
For Skynet 2.3.2 and a tronxy XY-08N use the A8- 5buttonkeypad- autolevel- front left sensor/12mm sensor/Configuration.h file
Is there a difference when you use a glass plate?
Help!! I followed your instructions about installing it from previous video, and after turning the printer ON and placing a metal object below the sensor the light turns on as it should do... everything goes ok until now. But when I do the Home All, the Z-stop never stops even when the sensor and the exruder smashes the bed. I have to turn off the printer to make it stop... What am I doing wrong? Please help
Nevermind.. solved it... the auto level sensor was very high but now is working good. Thanks anyway and thanks again for the video!
Hey. I have a prusa i3 and i have no setting for the auto leveling. And can’t fins out were it is ( if its in the program)
how to calibrate without a tronxy p802ma sensor? this thing doesnt even have a slot to plug in any sensor.
you deserve a like , man
+OMAR KH thanks buddy :)
SO after all that how does the board save the settings?
Where do i connect the sensor in the anet a8 board? All the sockets are already occupied...
@ Do i connect the new leveling sensor in the ZZ axis stop sensor socket?
@@JohnJaggerJack You Must remove original endstop, finish sn04 sensor with New molex plug and connect it in place of original endstop. Pay attention, where at motherboard is placed + - and signal! Its important! If You make a fail - You can damage sensor or motherboard endstop buffer input
You can also keep old endstop and connect it in serial with sn04 sensor. This old endstop Will be a solid protrction in case of sn04 sensor damage. This May prevent nozzle from hitting the table.
How did you fit the acrylic piece that holds the sensor between the motor and the metal bracket?
+gervqc the screws were long enough to reach the threads
3D Maker Noob The acrylic piece that came with that same sensor is too thick to fit between the motor and bracket. Did you mount yours between the fan and braket?
+gervqc yes I did
Why didn't I think of that?!? Thanks a lot, it fits perfectly!
after installing Skynet, mounting the sensor( blue anet sensor) ran the setup prepare then auto home adjusted the nozzle and the sensor , the machine homes then goes up about 3\4" and sets there. and if you home again it goes up another 3\4". what am I doing wrong? I can't get it to go back down even through Cura.
+Robert wood which version of skynet are you using?
I don't get it. My z offset (I've played with it quite a bit) is not moving the nozzle even when I autohome it... Should it move only during print? Also, I've seen some place say that they have negative offsets and the lower it gets well, the lower the nozzel gets... so why is it here that the higher the number is, the lower it gets?
I'm having the same issue. I can't figure it out. I've kinda manually manipulated the sensor into a good spot, but the z offset thing does nothing. It would be nice if it worked.
Michael MacDonald Yea actually I just physically make the sensor the right height now. You need a thick business card not thin paper or it will dig into the blue tape.
Reko Starr that's what I did. Finally got everything dialed in well, but clogged my extruder in the process. Taking a break right now. Frustrating, but I'm convinced it will be worth it.
I have the same problem on a TronXY P802MA. Changing the Z offset via the LCD menu does NOT move the stepper motors at all
Hello guys,
anyone found the solution for this?
So very concise Joe, thanks for sharing this. I am looking for a 'budget' printer to add to the channel, thinking a kit. I know you get this a lot, but what do you recommend I start with. And remember, I am a bigger NOOB then you, this would be my first kit.
+Print 3D Channel while this is not the ideal first printer, it definitely is a very good cheap kit, costs less than 200, and the community behind it is impressive. It's also a LOT of fun to print all the upgrades for it. A step up from this would be the A6, better UI, more rigid structure but less tinkering needed. After that it's a CR-10 :)
Best as I've been lost for the past 6 days....on Mac.I do have one problem to get through. And that is the offset doesn show on my 1st screen and that the nozzle is about 2 mm above bed..my home position is showing 10 and must be close.Can you advise?
+John Hayne look up me latest z offset video with a step by step guide in pronterface. Much easier and more accurate
Play this channel at x1.25 speed or even x1.5
my starting script is much more elaborate compared to yours. will I need to change it and if so can you show me you end code .... I use cura 2.6.1
Is it possible to have an E3D hot end and still have an auto level sensor on the Anet A8?
+AvocadoGamer212 yes of course. You just need to find the right hotend enclosure with a space to install the sensor on it. Many of them on thingiverse :)
did you do anything extra to the wiring? the LED doesn't turn on with the 5v connector i think..
make sure you note down the wires as sometimes you might need to switch them around
Thanks a million! Great explanation, saved me both time and troubles
+M.M.T. Swinkels welcome :)
What if my sensor works but not the LED, any advice?
I have the same problem, did you figure it out?
Hmm is there a way to add bed leveling (G29) to a profile so you don't have to add it to every file you try to print. (new to 3d printing)
I got a problem here need help :(
I already install my auto bed level sensor , but when I press the Skynet firmware to auto home its go to the left front corner and will not stop , and its show error: too far . hope you know what I mean , so how to make it start from the middle ?
Thanks :)
2 questions.
1.Can you use this sensor when using a glass bed?
2. Have you installed Marlin yet as opposed to skynet?
Hav
Yes,you can. I use a A8 clone and it works
ok well i only get a 3 point level check , how do you set up a 9 point level check ???
Is possible install on Anet A8 marlin firmware with sn04-n?
What guide do I have to follow?
Hi i was wondering which mm/s you print at and what retraction speeds you use
Why your Z screws are not in the "normal" position?
i hazing truble with z axis i get it all spot on pirfect but then harf way thru a print or so it ends up been to hight
what are those setting you use for the perfect fit
mine home to front left bed corner???