Thanks for the video, nice job. Looking forward to the rest of the series. Some questions if I may: 1. How stable is the speed on these after you set it up? 2. Why didn't Technics put a platter strobe on these models like the SL-1x00 series? 3. How hard is it to see the tonearm to manually queue tracks? 4. Does the sound mute when the tonarm is lowered on the record to eliminate the 'drop pop'?
I would rate the stability as awesome. It has been years since I had a record player around, I mostly had CD's. These have really made me appreciate the format. I think there is no strobe as this is a lid down, user friendly model. SL-1200s are for people that like to mess around and tweak their turntable. I rarely manually que, but I suspect with a little practice you'd be fine. The red LED indicator arrow seems quite precise, but again, you just need to use it a bit. I haven't noticed any muting nor any pop, but I suspect the key on this model is in how well controlled the drop is - I talked about that somewhere, maybe in a separate video. I really like these machines, and they suit my use of records - I just want to play and listen. So far, I haven't been disappointed. Quality cut records (I have some that were New Old Stock) really sound awesome.
@@felix_da_katze Thanks Felix. I wasn't sure if the Quartz PLL lock on this model made the difference between needing a regular strobe adjust or just needing a yearly tweak.
thanx for the very educating videos. One question: my needle drops too fast on the vinyl, should i put some silicon oil on the copper ribbled iron left to the middel of the tonearm or is there another solution?
You'll see in the videos that the ribbed brass bushing needs to be solidly contained in the plastic, and there is another part that rotates inside that. If the ribbed bit is held solidly in the plastic, then yes, put some silicone oil, as thick as you can get, in there to damp the drop. #1000000 or #500000 should probably do. Tamiya make oils for radio controlled cars that seem to be the best source for quality, weighted oil.
You don't set the pressure as such, you set the height. I haven't needed to do it, but enough people have asked about it I will probably do a video about it.
I made a flasher using an arduino, a transistor, and a bright led. I like this solution as the on time for the light is very short, and I suppose I convinced myself it is more accurate. Whatevs. If you can spell Arduino you can figure out how to hook this up and get it working. Here's the code: /* Arduino Strobe timer for LP Speed checking This timing is for 50Hz timing mats const float on_time = 2; const float off_time = 8; */ const float on_time = 2; const float off_time = 8; // the setup function runs once when you press reset or power the board void setup() { // initialize digital pin LED_BUILTIN as an output. pinMode(LED_BUILTIN, OUTPUT); } // the loop function runs over and over again forever void loop() { digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, HIGH); // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level) delay(on_time); // wait for a bit digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, LOW); // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW delay(off_time); // wait for a bit }
I have one of these units, but it often auto-returns early, depending on the record. Do you cover this in the series? If you could save me a few hours and point me to the right spot in one of the videos I'd appreciate it!
I had a similar problem with another one I did, and it was basically down to the position of the tonearm shifting/in the wrong place. Check your plastics. If the swivel point of the tone arm is loose, as in if you can move it side to side, it will never work right. Part 6 might be the most relevant video.
Thanks for the video, nice job. Looking forward to the rest of the series.
Some questions if I may:
1. How stable is the speed on these after you set it up?
2. Why didn't Technics put a platter strobe on these models like the SL-1x00 series?
3. How hard is it to see the tonearm to manually queue tracks?
4. Does the sound mute when the tonarm is lowered on the record to eliminate the 'drop pop'?
I would rate the stability as awesome. It has been years since I had a record player around, I mostly had CD's. These have really made me appreciate the format.
I think there is no strobe as this is a lid down, user friendly model. SL-1200s are for people that like to mess around and tweak their turntable.
I rarely manually que, but I suspect with a little practice you'd be fine. The red LED indicator arrow seems quite precise, but again, you just need to use it a bit.
I haven't noticed any muting nor any pop, but I suspect the key on this model is in how well controlled the drop is - I talked about that somewhere, maybe in a separate video.
I really like these machines, and they suit my use of records - I just want to play and listen. So far, I haven't been disappointed. Quality cut records (I have some that were New Old Stock) really sound awesome.
@@felix_da_katze Thanks Felix. I wasn't sure if the Quartz PLL lock on this model made the difference between needing a regular strobe adjust or just needing a yearly tweak.
thanx for the very educating videos. One question: my needle drops too fast on the vinyl, should i put some silicon oil on the copper ribbled iron left to the middel of the tonearm or is there another solution?
You'll see in the videos that the ribbed brass bushing needs to be solidly contained in the plastic, and there is another part that rotates inside that. If the ribbed bit is held solidly in the plastic, then yes, put some silicone oil, as thick as you can get, in there to damp the drop. #1000000 or #500000 should probably do. Tamiya make oils for radio controlled cars that seem to be the best source for quality, weighted oil.
@@felix_da_katze Thanx Felix, I will try to do that
How do you set the pressure on the needle?
Great viedos btw.
I just bought one of these for 50 and will be attempting a service
You don't set the pressure as such, you set the height. I haven't needed to do it, but enough people have asked about it I will probably do a video about it.
What is the light that you are using?
I made a flasher using an arduino, a transistor, and a bright led. I like this solution as the on time for the light is very short, and I suppose I convinced myself it is more accurate. Whatevs.
If you can spell Arduino you can figure out how to hook this up and get it working.
Here's the code:
/*
Arduino Strobe timer for LP Speed checking
This timing is for 50Hz timing mats
const float on_time = 2;
const float off_time = 8;
*/
const float on_time = 2;
const float off_time = 8;
// the setup function runs once when you press reset or power the board
void setup() {
// initialize digital pin LED_BUILTIN as an output.
pinMode(LED_BUILTIN, OUTPUT);
}
// the loop function runs over and over again forever
void loop() {
digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, HIGH); // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level)
delay(on_time); // wait for a bit
digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, LOW); // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW
delay(off_time); // wait for a bit
}
I have a SL-5 in need of speed adjustment but I can't figure out how did you put the plat to work without closing the lid.
Some painters tape over the lid switch.
I have one of these units, but it often auto-returns early, depending on the record. Do you cover this in the series? If you could save me a few hours and point me to the right spot in one of the videos I'd appreciate it!
I had a similar problem with another one I did, and it was basically down to the position of the tonearm shifting/in the wrong place. Check your plastics. If the swivel point of the tone arm is loose, as in if you can move it side to side, it will never work right. Part 6 might be the most relevant video.