The Green Truck: Body Mount Installation Tips, 1972 Chevy C10
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- In this video we'll give some tips on how to install new body mounts on a 1972 Chevy C10 pickup truck, as well as talk about rubber vs polyurethane truck body mounts.
USA body mount kit:
www.usa1indust...
Great video. Thanks for sharing your hard work.👍👍❤
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it--hope it was helpful.
The factory bolts with a point on the tip is called “Pilot Point” or “Dog Point” to facilitate air tools and more so automated assembly. Sandblasting removes any coating remaining but blueing is good. On the metal, an epoxy spray coating like a single can with catalyst inside can be purchased from Eastwood. The rubber or harder urethane can benefit from silicone paste grease, sold in cans but coat the captured nut & bolt with anti-seize compound. The locking nuts can be nylock or the ones with dimples are “Deformed” nuts. These are used in areas of movement and changes in temperature swings like exhaust. Either way, use what works and products to make them last another 55 years. My hat is tipped in your direction for helping to preserve this classic steel & iron. Thanks! Cert Automotive ASE master since 1978, retired.
Thanks Dean!
Taper/no taper doesn't worry me, but different shoulder lengths do, as does the low grade steel. I'd like the cab to stay attached at all times, so... grade 8 or better. I'd rather spot treat the original bolts for rust than put shiny new garbage in as shipped with this bushing kit. They shipped what: grade 5? Imbeciles. I also find poor value in the undersized diameter fender washers - bushings expand a little under compression and the washer serves as a wear point [with a dab of silicone grease hopefully]. An undersized diameter washer will shorten bushing life because higher PSI values are constantly applied.
One of the things I like to help preserve bushing bolts [where they sit inside a sleeve] is to coat the shoulder with sp400 [or similar preservative] as the waxy finish it dries to keeps moisture at bay. Lasts a good long time where mechanically protected. I've seen some ugly failures in the past where after many decades in service, the bolt head and nut seemed fine [on account of being painted], but... the shoulder wasted away and finally failed under load.
Wow, lot of good info! I like the idea of coating the rubber.
I can't speak to the long term quality of the new rubber, but it's way better than 40 year old rubber. Or the overly hard "upgraded" ones I put in a decade ago. Polyurethane does not make good body mounts!
As far as the hardware, I agree and talk about that specifically in the video. I cleaned and treated most of the original bolts and washers as the only had a little surface rust and were just fine. And way better quality. Thanks for watching!
Yep u got that bottom bushing upside down,,I have the same bushing. Kit n there completely different from the original,I had a problem with the core support crush sleeve not fitting right.
Is there a reason you flipped the orientation of your tapered rubber mounts when you installed them? They are upside-down compared to your urethane ones, and others I've seen.
Oh geez--no reason other than a brain fart. Wish you hadn't pointed it out. Now I'm faced with the dilemma of getting the carpet up enough to flip them--or have it bug me. :)
Can't believe I did that...
@@froehnerrestorations I totally understand. I would want to flip them over too. I thought maybe you had done it on purpose but I had never seen it done like that before so I had to ask. Sorry ‘bout that.
@@gotammit LOL! No worries, it should be corrected. :)
Do you have any tips for removing the front body mounts under the radiator? Ive replaced the under cab mounts but can't seem to get the front mounts to budge.
If memory serves, you have two options:
1) loosen all of the body mounts so the cab can raise with the front clip
2) remove the front clip from the frame and cab, or maybe even just loosen from both.
Just removing the bolts under the radiator mount is not enough as you still have the weight of everything on them and trying to lift the radiator support won't work unless the cab is loose to allow it to move up with the support. It's all tied together. Hope that makes sense and helps!
Thank you! Yeah I did lift the cab and front clip from the body but seems like these things are seized on. I’ll spry them and let it sit for a few weeks.
@@justkause Yeah, if they've never been done the rubber could be fused to the metal. You may have to chisel them out of there. Good luck!