Using a UNI-T UT210E clamp meter to test circuits for current
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- Опубліковано 28 гру 2021
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NCV = Non Contact Voltage. It detects AC by putting the probe near a cable etc. even when insulated.
Top tip for using the UT210E clamp to measure very low current, if you wind the wire through the clamp twice you double the reading, winding it 10 times increases the measured current 10x so you can get milli amps to into range of the meter.... just remember to divide the reading by the number of wire turns.
Great tip!
Excellent idea
Thats a really good tip. Thanks👍🏻
Who else, watches Mike demonstrate a tool then searches on the WEB and buys one? 👍👍👍👍
Have added lights, indicators and a beacon to my vintage tractor one of these will be useful to size the fuses.
if you're not sure how many amps ' set your meter to it's highest scale , then wind it down to suit ' .. very wise words , i've seen many apprentices blow an expensive meter by not doing this
This meter is great for new people because it does not have any ports to test amperage with the leads. It can only test amperage with the clamp. Since it is a clamp that senses the amperage instead of going through the meter you can’t damage the meter.
Because of that this is the meter I give as gifts to electronics newbies.
I like your style and presentation... no music or waffling on for 20 minutes before getting to the point! I just bought one. I have a high parasitic drain over night and can check my individual circuits and globally to, without removing a battery lead and inserting my meter in series. don't want to lose setting in the car. This is easy! Thanks
That fan is more powerful than the one in my smiths heater in my 2a. 😂.
Good film again, thanks Mike. 😉
Thanks 👍
Nicely done chap! Even I barely dribble when you explain stuff.
I appreciate that!
The meter is great for checking insitu 300TDI glow plugs and working out which one might be faulty. Total current is about 55 Amps, which drops after a few seconds.
It's great for finding parasitic current draw too.
Yes that makes it worth its weight in gold!!
@@BritannicaRestorations Another tip is swap the direction of the wire through the clamp. Both readings should be the same value.
The readings on mine were different because of an offset after zeroing it out, but a calibration sorted that out.
Generally I curse the volt, watt, and amp. However, your explanations and that handy tool makes diagnosis a little bit easier.
I bought one of these after seeing it feature in one of your previous videos. Great bit of kit because of the low DC current range on it.
For the cost, an essential test aid
Thanks for sharing
I bought one of these on a car boot sale/ flea market for £3 brand new still in packaging, now I know how to use it👍
Another thing to note is that most things draw a higher current at start up or switch on the settle down to their normal running current. Keep up the good work!
Great point!
Got Flukes too but this is very versatile and pretty accurate little meter and clamp meter for very little money and now also carry it in my vehicle.
Another Top Tool!
Your a Gentleman Mike thanks
Great, another tool to buy. Thanks again Mike!
Enjoy!
Great information. Thanks Mike!
Any time!
Thanks Mike very valuable information for future reference 👍
Glad it was helpful!
One of the best explanations on UA-cam, great work dude!
Glad you think so!
I use a battery disconnect on my '72 Series 3 when sitting for any length of time.
I have done that a lot on old cars. With new cars the computer can get messed up if it is without power for an extended period of time. Really annoying v
NVC DIY FIX: use Bounce sheet (the sheet you put in your drying machine) and rub it on the meter and the test lead and the housing... it will prevent the meter from getting statics and beep for no reasons...
Great meter. I always carry it in the Defender. Caused some suprised looks on the faces of some other offroaders, when they couldn't find the fault in their recent solar panel setup and I used the UNI-T to measure the currents without dismantling their circuit; they had never seen a clamp meter before :-)
The DC clamp meters have become affordable in the last few years - so easy to use to fault find!
Excellent use case. I keep this in my readiness kit in my vehicle. I can do so much with my electronics knowledge if I have a meter I would want this over and above a knife in a non wilderness survival situation. I can create a cutting tool. Trying to create a meter on the fly is a little harder.
Another useful video Mike.
Glad it was helpful!
@@BritannicaRestorations The electric videos are always helpful to me Mike.
If you get time, do a short video of the yard covered in snow being as it's Christmas. We don't get much down south anymore.
Disconnect the battery, place the meter on the cable you want to measure, THEN zero the meter... reconnect the battery...
Yes if you are in need of that level of accuracy. Also get used to holding the meter the same way every time the position of your hand can affect it a little bit.
On another comment they suggested doing 2 readings buy reversing the direction the wire goes through the clamp. The numbers should be the same one will just be negative. If not average the 2 for a more accurate reading.
Have the same meter, it's excellent.
Yes they are very handy to have!
Hi Mike NCV stands for non contact voltage for checking if current is in a cable
Clever man,hmm that gauge looks like the one l am missing,you haven't been holidaying in Australia lately 😁😁😁😁
lol!
NCV Yep more easy that having to poke the insulation with a needle. Voltage but no current often terminates in a bad or missing ground. BTW those UNI-T multimeters are rather fine for the price .
They are very good value for money!
I have seen a stereo install cause a problem do to the install not the stereo it self. A screw they used nicked a wire in a wire bundle of the vehicle just enough to cause a high resistance short which drained the battery within a couple of days.
And how do you find where you have short?
Cheers King Mike. 🥃🎄
I tried the fuse pulling trick once. The drain was across 4 different fuses. So we just put a manual disconnect on the battery and used that if it would be parked for more than a day.
LR2?? That a Disco 2 Mike?? Mine drained its bat because the RF receiver in the roof had got wet.
Freelander 2 (US)
....your method is fine until you have the problem that's plaguing my Defender atm....the intermittent parasitic draw has returned....I have checked every fuse multiple times and am still none the wiser as to where the draw is coming from....I can measure it at the battery from time to time, but as soon as I start testing it disappears!....I'll catch the little bugger one of these days...😂
Check out the alternator - it has been known for the diodes to go
@@BritannicaRestorations will do...I'll be bloody annoyed if it is...it's less than a year old
@@GrumpsBarn I have had a similar problem. Turned out to be the starter solenoid main terminal had continuity to earth.