Approach DIFFICULT PAINTINGS the EASY WAY- Full STEP by STEP Tutorial
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- Опубліковано 28 чер 2024
- When paintings have a lot going on in them you have to learn to slow down and approach one part of the painting at a time. Within this painting tutorial, I'll show you the techniques that I use to take on more challenging paintings. I'm painting this one on a smooth canvas that I set up myself, using an airbrush with transparent acrylic paint and erasers. The canvas is 24"x36". In this first part we will paint the entire portrait from start to finish and I'll show you all the techniques that I use. In part 2, I'll show you how to paint blurry backgrounds to give the painting that classic camera lens effect. Thanks for watching.
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Supplies Used:
Airbrush- amzn.to/47CIvMp
Birch Panel- amzn.to/3sM6ObW
Gesso- amzn.to/3Dxg4mc
Stick Erasers- amzn.to/3xsgyrL
Kneaded eraser- amzn.to/3vbk0YV
Frisket Film- amzn.to/3Mev1yf
Electric Eraser (sumogrip)- amzn.to/46A0XVR
Sand Erasers- amzn.to/3tsQNYC
Sandpaper Sharpener- amzn.to/3Qe5w1l
Artool Shields- amzn.to/3MixUyG
Colors:
Burnt Umber- amzn.to/3qYRYu7
Sepia- amzn.to/3dyWPz8
Scarlet- amzn.to/3XpXFja
Black- amzn.to/3RFMnro
Payne's Grey- amzn.to/3QV5wDs
Orange- amzn.to/3sTwnI3
Video Equipment-
Camera- amzn.to/3dOsvAU
Lens- amzn.to/3E0aHgK
Macro Lens- amzn.to/3jFlZyE
Slider- amzn.to/3rkmqT6
Tripod- amzn.to/3D3L6BQ
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Microphone- amzn.to/41sW3GS
Audio Interface- amzn.to/3Q36VXU
Boom Arm- amzn.to/3O0p8Wy
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Timestamps
00:00 Intro, tools, grids, colors
01:36 How to paint the iris, pupil, & sclera of the eye
04:50 How to paint the eyelids, eye lashes, eyebrows, & surrounding skin tones
08:36 Simplify your paintings
10:20 How I use an eraser for skin textures and adjusting values
12:23 Painting in the nose & blending
14:24 Dealing with mistakes & failures
15:35 How surrounding colors affect what you see
16:57 How to paint in the mouth, lips, chin, & surrounding skin textures
23:57 Adding in the right eye
24:58 How to use a shield to paint in the chin, jaw, & cheek line
26:20 Painting in the forehead and using the eraser to pull everything together
28:23 Thank you Art Workshop Members!!! - Навчання та стиль
Your voice is very calming and pleasant to listen. Your explanations and guide are priceless. Your devotion and work is amazing. Thank you for sharing all this with us!
thanks so much for the very kind words! really appreciate that
Another great, informative and straightforward video. As always, you get me psyched to paint! Thanks, Mark!
Thanks again and have a Happy New Year Ryland!
Great Tutorial! Simplifying things thank you Mark!🙌🏽👍🏽👊🏽✌🏽
By the way great painting and Merry Christmas!!!!
Glad you liked it! Thank you JC- Merry Christmas to you as well!
Cópia fiel nesta ARTE. Parabens!
Waw Mark thanks so much for this lesson last time i painting was for More Than 6 mounth i was buzy with flyfishing and fly tying but waw this lesson make me wake up i will start again wish every Thing good for you you stell the best teacher thank you for everything ❤❤❤. M.S
M!! Thanks so much! Fly fishing and fly tying looks awesome- and being outdoors is the best. Happy to hear you're gonna get back into painting. Have a happy new year my friend!
I really love how you break down something so daunting into manageable steps. With a leap of faith and your encouragement, I'm going to try my first portrait. Thanks again for what you do.
thanks Manny! Leap of faith is a great term for it. I feel like that with every painting I start as well. I'll have the reference photos and grids up on the members page later today. Best of luck with portraits!!
This is great!
Thanks Steve!
Beautiful
Thank you!
This is one of my many favorites of yours. This video combines so much of what you have previously demonstrated. Also your commentary keeps things on an even keel for me as you explain mistakes and pacing the work. You’re presentation gives me confidence. Exceptionally informative and supportive. Thanks for all you share. Happy Holidays!!!!!
thanks so much! very happy to hear that
love this !!!
👍👍👍👍👍
Absolute newbie at all this, grabbed some stuff and am watching lots of stuff, coming from a fine art approach I love your stuff. I am stumped by one aspect though - I cannot use an eraser to remove paint like you can….
thanks. A few things are needed- an easily erasable paint (createx illustration), an aggressive stick eraser (mars razor or 7058b), and a VERY smooth/non-absorbent surface (synthetic/yupo paper or prepared canvas). hope this helps!
Just curious if you ever used createx illustration bloodline colors or lifeline colors or do you primarily just used the original Illustration colors?
No, i haven't. i think they are the same paint, but with ridiculous names lol
@@theartworkshop The bloodlind and lifeline colors are Tertiary colors so they are not highly saturated pure pigments like the normal illustration colors. There is some difference in binder, Not all of them are transparents. They were designed for monster mask painters etc. Where that group of people prefer to use paint straight out of the bottle and normal colors would be far high in chroma for what they are doing with them.
excellent info- thanks for this!!@@TheAIRspace
do you answer questions about what you do?
Out of interest, why you ain't using the airbrush back end cap? Thanks!
easier for me to access the needle- cleaning, color swaps, reseating it, etc
Hi, I am a viewer just like you, he explained in a past video, the reason for having the cover off, it is quicker for him to clear a blockage in the nozzle by pulling the needle back instead of keep taking the cover off🏴
@@stuartmcintosh8275 im a product designer its my daily work and i made a lot of parts but i see the back end spray limiting options are poor designs which come lose very often. basically those functions are useless.. just like the cut out in the back end so you can pull back the needle while the trigger does the same thing. the only time when something blocks in my airbrush is when i encounter tip dry and i fix that with my finger tips wiping off the paint. the first time when i bought my expensive takumi i was not happy. the product is made out of cheap metals and has tolerance issues everywhere. i find the back end useful because the needle guides in the trigger spring adjuster and the tolerance/size difference in the needle and hole of the trigger adjuster is really bad. when u have the back end cover off and you rest the needle on your hand the needle can bend like 1mm and moves freely in the space of the trigger action adjuster but of course this wont all matter that much because the needle is guided in the front nozzle and packing as well but still if u just keep your needle stuck in the front with your finger and your going to move the back of the needle in circles your needle tip in the front will rotate. even when i just trigger my takumi for example the needle in the back looks like sterring a spoon in my soup! i guess its time for some airbrush upgrades. just wanted to know why he wasnt using the back end because im making really cool back ends as well. thanks for the feedback!