Wow! I would never have imagined it would do that, thought it was more for very thin jewellery, but no, it did an amazing job. Can't justify one just now but super useful to have the idea stored in memory in case some application comes along. Thanks for sharing!
The way it melted that braze on the 4 mm steel rods told me it could definitely do more than I had previously thought. I would like to try a larger tip, but all my jet drills are just a little bit too big. Go too large and HHO will burn back up the line (as it has it's own oxygen component) due to insufficient gas pressure. Interesting little unit. It doesn't blow small components around like the big torch does, so it has some pluses. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob Yes, caustic soda is a cheap product, commonly used but potassium hydroxide not really, I'm not sure. Thank you very much for your detailed explanation of the machine's operation. Regards PS- I like your videos.
Hi Joao, I just checked and KOH looks to be about $34 per kilo delivered in Australia. Caustic soda is easily less than half the price. My H160 unit came with enough KOH for about 4 or so tanks of electrolyte. I have quite a bit of caustic soda on hand, but I will buy more KOH when I run out as it's not hugely expensive and is recommended to be used in preference to caustic soda. It reportedly is more efficient, stays clear much longer and has minimal residue. Cheers Rob
DETAILS: the bubbler mix forumula used is 75% alcohol (I used methylated spirits) to 25% Acetone, plus 2 tea spoon full of a Borax flux (I used some 303 brazing flux) per litre by volume. The torch performed much better than previously, but it will be limited to the smallest carbide inserts and a base material no bigger than 8 mm square to braze effectively. The tooling in the video was 6 mm square. It also helps to grind the base back of any unnecessary material. Cheers Rob
If you grind the coating off the inserts you can get better results if there is trouble getting the stuff to stick . Only tried mag bronze when in desperation ! Pro silver 45 works ok ( the grade below what you are supposed to use ) . Euetectic 16 is the go , but becoming harder to get here now . Cheers Rob .
Manganese bronze is a lot stronger, but silver solder will do the job. Just costs an arm and a leg to buy it, but you don't need to use a lot for tips. I've never had any issues with coated inserts not bonding, but that's a good tip. Cheers Rob
I noticed one other change from the previous video. You changed the distance between the tip to the work piece allowing the flame to burn more of the fuel before reaching the work piece.
You have repeated this more than once. With the hottest part of a standard OA flame cone being at the tip and not way out somewhere where “more of the gasses burn”, what would be your proof of that? Not being mean and I’m open to it being true but this sounds anecdotal from this one example only. A torch flame tip is actually formed and even controlled by a combination of gasses which implies the ideal and therefore hottest combination of gasses is right near the tip of the flame cone.
WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i need one now ,iv been less than impressed till now. thanks rob! i like your slogan "Please stay well away from the door sir, for your own safety".
He He. I had this vision of a bunch of workshop desperado's in dirty overalls charging through the shop doors to get one before they sold out :) Cheers Rob
Hello Rob Now I think what it is KOH When I was a kid, many years ago, I remember that my mother used a white powder to clean the toilets at home. At that time, there were no cleaning chemicals that exist today. I think that this powder is the same product that also serves as a degreaser. Today it is not easy to find it. Is that the product?
Hi Joao, that sounds right. It is a cleaning agent. You can still buy Borax in the cleaning section of my supermarket (Coles). It is a white crystalline powder. Cheers Rob
Kudos to the commenter and his suggestion. That made the whole thing start looking much more attractive. No freakin' Acetylene to mess with is a huge plus. Well done Rob. Now you can go have a hydraulic sandwich for lunch!
Wow, Rob - what a difference in output! Given that the unit still only has its maximum 2 H2/O2 gas output, what's the explanation for the much better result/ less oxidizing flame with the booze/ acetone mix instead of water? Is it just as simple as getting a bigger HC ratio to the available O2 from the generator? Just a thought. Cheers & keep'em coming! DIYSwede
Hi Johan, I don't really know why. Just goes to show how experience speaks louder than words. The end result was hugely better and no oxidation, which was the big issue before. The carbide brazing job worked out damn well. I was pretty impressed overall with the final result. The bubbler mix was the key. For anyone on a limited budget this setup is worth considering. It obviously has it's limitations and I think what I achieved was a good result considering it's output. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu Thanks, Rob - seems like I just got myself yet another project on hand: Homebrewing an HHO generator powered by one (or a few) of my liberated HP Server 460W PSUs (@ max 1670-ish BTU-Hrs each)? Guess a heavy-duty blowback/ flame arrestor in the handle is of utmost importance, avoding torching the entire inflammable bubbler... Take care! DIYSwede
Hi Rob I saw a machine like yours (or similar), here in Europe, on Ebay at this link www.ebay.com/itm/220V-75L-Oxygen-Hydrogen-Water-Flame-Torch-Polisher-HHO-Acrylic-Welder-Machine / 283226144659. They say: "The HHO generator uses a mixture of cold distilled water and an electrolyte like KOH (NOT PROVIDED)". What is KOH? Is it any expensive substance? Does the machine need a lot of maintenance? Is it durable? Thank you Joao A Ferreira
Hi Joao. they are talking about the liquid mix that is in the large electrolyte tank that has a current passed though it to make the gas. From there the gas goes through the bubbler which has a totally different liquid mix and purpose. The electrolyte is made by mixing a certain amount of potassium hydroxide (KOH) or sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) with water. Both are extremely caustic chemicals and quite cheap to buy - used as a cleaning agent. Water is actually a very poor electric conductor, so the chemical is added to allow the current to pass. It is exactly the same effect as when using baking soda in water to de-rust an object with a car battery charger and you see those bubbles given off. The anode and cathode in the H160 reactor are made of non erosive metal and as such should last indefinitely. It is recommended that the tank be flushed out with water if the amperage shown on the front panel meter drops significantly. I guess over time the electrolyte agent builds up a residue. That's about it as far as maintenance goes. The electrolyte level in the tank has to be topped up occasionally as the gas is made by breaking the water down into it's molecular components - oxygen and hydrogen. The bubbler also needs a very occasional top up as well. Here ends my chemical lesson ;) Cheers Rob
H160 generates 75litres of HHO per hour. There are models that generate 400l/hour of HHO. *Much* more expensive though ;-) Thank you for another great video. I have recently purchased a "big" oxy-acetylene rig inspired by your videos showing brazing of carbide tips to make lathe tools. I plan to use silver brazing rods. Expensive, but you only use up a little bit for brazing of a carbide tip.
Good stuff Rob. You stuck at it with this one and I recon you've got the best out of it. Enjoying the short update vids here in Hertfordshire England , Keep it up and take care.
Hi Rob, Looks like a good result. Do you think with the additives (Alcohol, etc.) needed to make it perform well it is still cost effective to use? Thanks Paul,,
Yes, absolutely Paul. The water/agent mix only goes down very slowly and the bubbler hardly at all. The only real cost is 300 watts mains supply. Dirt cheap. Cheers Rob
Ya wow what an improvement. So some mineral spirits and acetone have to watch that again for the %. And ya that flame like i said looked like an oxidizing flame. I look it up in a book, but for copper there's a flame that cleans (I pre flux the base metals and a bit on the filler as i go if needed) jack of all trades by choice. the workpiece indicators sights ,sounds , smells . tell you things are going right but you have to observe those things and have that as expeirience to make those things predictable and repeatable The majic of youtube
Rob could you say what the combination was ..... it was hard to understand what you said. Would be appreciated and thank you for staying with it and the video.
Hi Glenn, the bubbler mix forumula as used is 75% alcohol (I used methylated spirits) to 25% Acetone, plus 2 tea spoon full of a Borax flux (I used some 303 brazing flux) per litre by volume. I will pin this information to the top of the comments. Cheers Rob
Great work Rob with the extra grunt you've really made it a useful workshop torch ,have you tried welding with the new setup ? p.s We use silver solder instead of bronze for tool making because carbide can get stress cracks if over heated
Hi Lewis. I played around with it today to see what it can braise tooling wise and using Manganese bronze it looks to top out at 8 mm square base. I tried it on 10 mm and it was too much heat loss. The tooling in the video was 6 mm square. I suppose you could give it a boost with a regular butane torch (as I do with the Bullfinch for larger jobs at times) to get past that limit. I have never had any stress cracks with carbide, but I don't do a lot of insert brazing. The ones I've done have stood up OK. The price of high content silver solder is scary expensive, so it's off my menu, but I have an alternative. It's probably still viable for occasional use by back yarders with limited heating means. Cheers Rob
Good question Alan. I have never tried it. I don't know if this is possible. I will have to give it a go. If it works I will get back to you. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob,. Were lucky here as you can buy borax here in the grocery store. It is in with the laundry cleaning stuff and is the 20 mule team brand. Reasonably priced and good supply. I don't think the 303 flux is available any more but anyway not a cheap source of borax. Not sure how it is down under but thought I would pass it along. Dale in Canada
Hi Dale, thanks for the info. I have plenty of 303 flux, so i just used that. You don't need much really. I just had a look and the local Coles store has Bare Essentials brand Borax cleaner ($4.10 for half a kilo) so I might get some next visit. You can't buy EZIWELD 303 flux any more as the guy in Sydney retired and stopped making it, but you can buy CA 303 flux online and BOC have a 303 version as well. So it's still available, but under various different brand names (same formula I expect). The numbering codes are pretty standard in Oz. Cheers Rob
Hi Ron, the right information makes a big difference ;) So much BS on the internet. Makes it tough to sift through it. Classic case of experience beats supposed informed knowledge. Reminds me of the useless uni graduates we had at work. Cheers Rob
I was under the impression it was used to vary the flame temperature (chemical dependent) and more importantly prevent flash back into the gas generator. It obviously can do more.
Brill Rob, great demo and loving all the comment feed back, The comercial units used in workshops here use mek in the gas booster, presume its the same idea, the difference is they cost ten times as much .So thanks for all your experiments with it .great for us looking for the cheap way into doing things.did you say there was flashback arrest in that extra torch you got . Thanks again, I knew you would have fun getting the best from it.Cheers
Hi Colum, yes the updated torch has a flash back arrest in the front section. I think that is a good idea with a volatile mix like this in the bubbler. I may look at devising a line arrest in the future - using aquarium bubble rock material. I believe it works well as the porous medium. Cheers Rob
Electrolysis, electro lysis, using electricity to break cut or split water from two H20 molecules in to two H2 (gaseous hydrogen) and one O2 (gaseous oxygen).
The machine is so cheap I doubt you would want to build one. Not sure how much one is there in Aussie land but here in the USA under 130 bucks USD shipped.
Hi Michel, the extra output made all the difference. OK for small inserts, but larger ones would be asking a bit much. I put that boring bar in with my Sherline stuff - perfect. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu But this perfect for all those small jobs. I guess this torch it is not as turbulent as your big boy. The big one will blow away that insert and then you will need some complicated setup to keep the insert in place during brazing, won't you?
That's not a bad idea Michel, I may have to look into that as a future review. Not sure how it would go trying to add flux and the brazing rod though. Interesting thought. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob, I think what is happening here is similar in effect to what happens with propane that is mixed with other constituents such as methyl acetylene ,propylene,propadiene etc to make extra hot MAPP gas. Your combustibles in the bubbler are forming into a higher thermal output compound gas. The MAPP gas compounds produce a noticeable increase in flame temp over standard propane.
@@Xynudu I think there's just some extra oxygen in the flame I've read that you would need a 4 to 1 ratio to turn the oxidizing flame into a reducing Flame If I'm not mistaken mixing that with acetone Vapor would make more heat I so some videos of someone who modified his torch with both propane and an acetone bubbler
That’s really interesting. Alcohol and acetone. Whoever figured that out knows their chemistry. Impressive results.
Wow! I would never have imagined it would do that, thought it was more for very thin jewellery, but no, it did an amazing job. Can't justify one just now but super useful to have the idea stored in memory in case some application comes along. Thanks for sharing!
The way it melted that braze on the 4 mm steel rods told me it could definitely do more than I had previously thought.
I would like to try a larger tip, but all my jet drills are just a little bit too big. Go too large and HHO will burn back up the line (as it has it's own oxygen component) due to insufficient gas pressure. Interesting little unit. It doesn't blow small components around like the big torch does, so it has some pluses. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob
Yes, caustic soda is a cheap product, commonly used but potassium hydroxide not really, I'm not sure.
Thank you very much for your detailed explanation of the machine's operation.
Regards
PS- I like your videos.
Hi Joao, I just checked and KOH looks to be about $34 per kilo delivered in Australia. Caustic soda is easily less than half the price. My H160 unit came with enough KOH for about 4 or so tanks of electrolyte.
I have quite a bit of caustic soda on hand, but I will buy more KOH when I run out as it's not hugely expensive and is recommended to be used in preference to caustic soda. It reportedly is more efficient, stays clear much longer and has minimal residue.
Cheers Rob
DETAILS: the bubbler mix forumula used is 75% alcohol (I used methylated spirits) to 25% Acetone, plus 2 tea spoon full of a Borax flux (I used some 303 brazing flux) per litre by volume.
The torch performed much better than previously, but it will be limited to the smallest carbide inserts and a base material no bigger than 8 mm square to braze effectively. The tooling in the video was 6 mm square. It also helps to grind the base back of any unnecessary material.
Cheers Rob
Would iso alcohol work?
If you grind the coating off the inserts you can get better results if there is trouble getting the stuff to stick . Only tried mag bronze when in desperation ! Pro silver 45 works ok ( the grade below what you are supposed to use ) . Euetectic 16 is the go , but becoming harder to get here now . Cheers Rob .
Manganese bronze is a lot stronger, but silver solder will do the job. Just costs an arm and a leg to buy it, but you don't need to use a lot for tips.
I've never had any issues with coated inserts not bonding, but that's a good tip.
Cheers Rob
I noticed one other change from the previous video. You changed the distance between the tip to the work piece allowing the flame to burn more of the fuel before reaching the work piece.
You have repeated this more than once. With the hottest part of a standard OA flame cone being at the tip and not way out somewhere where “more of the gasses burn”, what would be your proof of that? Not being mean and I’m open to it being true but this sounds anecdotal from this one example only. A torch flame tip is actually formed and even controlled by a combination of gasses which implies the ideal and therefore hottest combination of gasses is right near the tip of the flame cone.
WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i need one now ,iv been less than impressed till now. thanks rob! i like your slogan "Please stay well away from the door sir, for your own safety".
He He. I had this vision of a bunch of workshop desperado's in dirty overalls charging through the shop doors to get one before they sold out :)
Cheers Rob
that's a result for sure mate!
glad you got it working!
OK, thank you Rob.
Hello Rob
Now I think what it is KOH
When I was a kid, many years ago, I remember that my mother used a white powder to clean the toilets at home. At that time, there were no cleaning chemicals that exist today. I think that this powder is the same product that also serves as a degreaser. Today it is not easy to find it.
Is that the product?
Hi Joao, that sounds right. It is a cleaning agent. You can still buy Borax in the cleaning section of my supermarket (Coles). It is a white crystalline powder. Cheers Rob
Kudos to the commenter and his suggestion. That made the whole thing start looking much more attractive.
No freakin' Acetylene to mess with is a huge plus. Well done Rob. Now you can go have a hydraulic sandwich for lunch!
Yes, it just shows the value of comments section for this type of video. Plus it's good to communicate with like minded people. Cheers Rob
Wow, Rob - what a difference in output! Given that the unit still only has its maximum 2 H2/O2 gas output, what's the explanation for the much better result/ less oxidizing flame with the booze/ acetone mix instead of water? Is it just as simple as getting a bigger HC ratio to the available O2 from the generator? Just a thought. Cheers & keep'em coming! DIYSwede
Hi Johan, I don't really know why. Just goes to show how experience speaks louder than words.
The end result was hugely better and no oxidation, which was the big issue before. The carbide brazing job worked out damn well. I was pretty impressed overall with the final result. The bubbler mix was the key.
For anyone on a limited budget this setup is worth considering.
It obviously has it's limitations and I think what I achieved was a good result considering it's output.
Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu Thanks, Rob - seems like I just got myself yet another project on hand: Homebrewing an HHO generator powered by one (or a few) of my liberated HP Server 460W PSUs (@ max 1670-ish BTU-Hrs each)? Guess a heavy-duty blowback/ flame arrestor in the handle is of utmost importance, avoding torching the entire inflammable bubbler... Take care! DIYSwede
I'll add that the change in distance from the tip to the work piece allowed more fuel to be consumed and put more of that heat on the work piece
Hey Dude, the hottest part of the flame is at the tip of the bright blue part at the tip of the torch - you know.
Hi Rob
I saw a machine like yours (or similar), here in Europe, on Ebay at this link www.ebay.com/itm/220V-75L-Oxygen-Hydrogen-Water-Flame-Torch-Polisher-HHO-Acrylic-Welder-Machine / 283226144659.
They say: "The HHO generator uses a mixture of cold distilled water and an electrolyte like KOH (NOT PROVIDED)".
What is KOH? Is it any expensive substance? Does the machine need a lot of maintenance? Is it durable?
Thank you
Joao A Ferreira
Hi Joao. they are talking about the liquid mix that is in the large electrolyte tank that has a current passed though it to make the gas. From there the gas goes through the bubbler which has a totally different liquid mix and purpose.
The electrolyte is made by mixing a certain amount of potassium hydroxide (KOH) or sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) with water. Both are extremely caustic chemicals and quite cheap to buy - used as a cleaning agent. Water is actually a very poor electric conductor, so the chemical is added to allow the current to pass. It is exactly the same effect as when using baking soda in water to de-rust an object with a car battery charger and you see those bubbles given off.
The anode and cathode in the H160 reactor are made of non erosive metal and as such should last indefinitely. It is recommended that the tank be flushed out with water if the amperage shown on the front panel meter drops significantly. I guess over time the electrolyte agent builds up a residue.
That's about it as far as maintenance goes. The electrolyte level in the tank has to be topped up occasionally as the gas is made by breaking the water down into it's molecular components - oxygen and hydrogen.
The bubbler also needs a very occasional top up as well.
Here ends my chemical lesson ;)
Cheers Rob
You had some cool colours going on there. Great review and tips.
H160 generates 75litres of HHO per hour. There are models that generate 400l/hour of HHO. *Much* more expensive though ;-)
Thank you for another great video.
I have recently purchased a "big" oxy-acetylene rig inspired by your videos showing brazing of carbide tips to make lathe tools. I plan to use silver brazing rods. Expensive, but you only use up a little bit for brazing of a carbide tip.
Good stuff Rob. You stuck at it with this one and I recon you've got the best out of it. Enjoying the short update vids here in Hertfordshire England , Keep it up and take care.
Thanks Lee.
Great improvement Rob. Amazing what the hive mind can come up with. Thanks for sharing. Stay safe. regards from the UK
Yes, the comment section really came good on this one Gary. Cheers Rob
Does look like you are getting the measure of that. :)
That's getting to be quite impressive for it's size....
Quite better then when you started...!!!
Could even be useful ;) Cheers Rob
Hi Rob,
Looks like a good result. Do you think with the additives (Alcohol, etc.) needed to make it perform well it is still cost effective to use?
Thanks
Paul,,
Yes, absolutely Paul. The water/agent mix only goes down very slowly and the bubbler hardly at all. The only real cost is 300 watts mains supply. Dirt cheap. Cheers Rob
Ya wow what an improvement. So some mineral spirits and acetone have to watch that again for the %. And ya that flame like i said looked like an oxidizing flame. I look it up in a book, but for copper there's a flame that cleans (I pre flux the base metals and a bit on the filler as i go if needed) jack of all trades by choice. the workpiece indicators sights ,sounds , smells . tell you things are going right but you have to observe those things and have that as expeirience to make those things predictable and repeatable The majic of youtube
Ah. It probably has Chinese Thermal Units.
Great stuff Rob, looking forward to seeing just what this thing can do 👍
Great on going progress thanks for sharing progress
Rob could you say what the combination was ..... it was hard to understand what you said. Would be appreciated and thank you for staying with it and the video.
Hi Glenn, the bubbler mix forumula as used is 75% alcohol (I used methylated spirits) to 25% Acetone, plus 2 tea spoon full of a Borax flux (I used some 303 brazing flux) per litre by volume. I will pin this information to the top of the comments. Cheers Rob
Great work Rob with the extra grunt you've really made it a useful workshop torch ,have you tried welding with the new setup ?
p.s We use silver solder instead of bronze for tool making because carbide can get stress cracks if over heated
Hi Lewis. I played around with it today to see what it can braise tooling wise and using Manganese bronze it looks to top out at 8 mm square base. I tried it on 10 mm and it was too much heat loss. The tooling in the video was 6 mm square.
I suppose you could give it a boost with a regular butane torch (as I do with the Bullfinch for larger jobs at times) to get past that limit.
I have never had any stress cracks with carbide, but I don't do a lot of insert brazing. The ones I've done have stood up OK. The price of high content silver solder is scary expensive, so it's off my menu, but I have an alternative. It's probably still viable for occasional use by back yarders with limited heating means.
Cheers Rob
This little torch has turned into a really great story, way to go rob, cheers!
Sure has. For anyone with a micro or mini lathe it looks to be an absolute winner.
Cheers Rob
Could i use this machine to bond aluminum together using low melting point aluminum rods.
Good question Alan. I have never tried it. I don't know if this is possible. I will have to give it a go. If it works I will get back to you. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu Ok cheers bud.
Always learning, great one Rob.
Good experiment
OK, thank you.
Hi Rob,. Were lucky here as you can buy borax here in the grocery store. It is in with the laundry cleaning stuff and is the 20 mule team brand. Reasonably priced and good supply. I don't think the 303 flux is available any more but anyway not a cheap source of borax. Not sure how it is down under but thought I would pass it along.
Dale in Canada
Hi Dale, thanks for the info. I have plenty of 303 flux, so i just used that. You don't need much really.
I just had a look and the local Coles store has Bare Essentials brand Borax cleaner ($4.10 for half a kilo) so I might get some next visit.
You can't buy EZIWELD 303 flux any more as the guy in Sydney retired and stopped making it, but you can buy CA 303 flux online and BOC have a 303 version as well. So it's still available, but under various different brand names (same formula I expect). The numbering codes are pretty standard in Oz.
Cheers Rob
Big difference Rob. Thanks for hanging in there and solving the problem. Thanks for the video.
Hi Ron, the right information makes a big difference ;) So much BS on the internet. Makes it tough to sift through it. Classic case of experience beats supposed informed knowledge. Reminds me of the useless uni graduates we had at work. Cheers Rob
Not my speciality but isn't the idea of the bubbler to put some carbon into the flame, as you found it gives more heat.
I was under the impression it was used to vary the flame temperature (chemical dependent) and more importantly prevent flash back into the gas generator. It obviously can do more.
Hi you say alcohol what particularly alcohol are you talking about how pure does it have to be
Hi John, I just used methylated spirits - denatured alcohol. Same thing. Cheers Rob
Brill Rob, great demo and loving all the comment feed back, The comercial units used in workshops here use mek in the gas booster, presume its the same idea, the difference is they cost ten times as much .So thanks for all your experiments with it .great for us looking for the cheap way into doing things.did you say there was flashback arrest in that extra torch you got . Thanks again, I knew you would have fun getting the best from it.Cheers
Hi Colum, yes the updated torch has a flash back arrest in the front section. I think that is a good idea with a volatile mix like this in the bubbler.
I may look at devising a line arrest in the future - using aquarium bubble rock material. I believe it works well as the porous medium.
Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu 👍
Doesn’t look like this unit is available.
Not in Oz apparently. Probably too much risk of damage due to the long delivery path. Cheers Rob
How do you get a flame from water?
You break it down to the molecular level.
Electrolysis, electro lysis, using electricity to break cut or split water from two H20 molecules in to two H2 (gaseous hydrogen) and one O2 (gaseous oxygen).
Hello Mate, could you please open that thing up and let us have a look inside. Let's build one.
The machine is so cheap I doubt you would want to build one. Not sure how much one is there in Aussie land but here in the USA under 130 bucks USD shipped.
To me, It's not about the cost but the principle.
I saw a video on YT where someone opened one up. Not much to see inside. Do a search on HHO or some such. Cheers Rob
Definitely a great result Rob, that make a big difference
Huge. Now it actually looks useful. Cheers Rob
That's a pretty good result, Rob. Has me thinking about my local scrap yard who have 45 gallon drums filled with used carbide inserts...
Hi Michel, the extra output made all the difference. OK for small inserts, but larger ones would be asking a bit much. I put that boring bar in with my Sherline stuff - perfect. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu But this perfect for all those small jobs. I guess this torch it is not as turbulent as your big boy. The big one will blow away that insert and then you will need some complicated setup to keep the insert in place during brazing, won't you?
@@Xynudu To be honest it's got me thinking about making up a little induction heater for bar ends and picking up a couple of kilos of "dead" carbide.
Yes Reinier, this torch does a good job on tiny stuff. Going much better now that I have the correct bubbler mix. Cheers Rob
That's not a bad idea Michel, I may have to look into that as a future review. Not sure how it would go trying to add flux and the brazing rod though. Interesting thought. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob, I think what is happening here is similar in effect to what happens with propane that is mixed with other constituents such as methyl acetylene ,propylene,propadiene etc to make extra hot MAPP gas. Your combustibles in the bubbler are forming into a higher thermal output compound gas. The MAPP gas compounds produce a noticeable increase in flame temp over standard propane.
Could well be Howard. Some sort of chemical action appears to be happening. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu I think there's just some extra oxygen in the flame I've read that you would need a 4 to 1 ratio to turn the oxidizing flame into a reducing Flame
If I'm not mistaken mixing that with acetone Vapor would make more heat
I so some videos of someone who modified his torch with both propane and an acetone bubbler