@07:40 yes because you have to measure your thrust play, because it needs to be within spec as well. thats what protects crank while depressing the clutch pedal. enough space so oil will create a protective film while holding the clutch pedal in, but not so much that you get crank walk while depressing pedal.
Yes my k series em1 is dealing with this lol as we speak thrust washers are giving out I can wobble the pulley with a screw driver and when I press the clutch in it dies.. measures is important for the build
Famous Nascar engine builder from 50s thru 80s deliberately ran his main journals a little loose and larger than anyone else to get more power at higher end. After all, unnecessary high oil pressure just increased paracitic drag on engine ( less horsepower). He got away with that Cheat for decades until blabber mouths and Nascar figured out how is engines lasted and made more horsepower than competition. Think in Car& Driver article; engine did just fine with only 25psi oil pressure foot to the floor at redline.
Wow, I am impressed about the time and money you spend on your build. I can't see anywhere thru your process where you are cheaping out, exept from painting your car yourself instead of paying a professional to do it. lol I'm currently rebuilding my B series engine for the 3rd time now and always find engine building vids exciting. Keep up the good work!
Full send papi!. Heck yeah. Now this is a engine build video I can relate too 😊. Admit the k series is so much fun,simpler and easier than the subi boxer. I do like the ej25 but for me to own and build one, it will never happen. Hondabond ftw 💰. Bearing tangs face the exhaust side but you knew that already.
why did you did you go with the k20, i want to do a similar build with the same power but with a k24 block and k20z3 head for the vtec , is there a downside to using the k24 block?
I love the videos by the way they are very helpful. The most I've done to a car is brakes and an oil change, but i want to built a project Honda so badly, and your videos are helping me get an idea of how much i need to spend and itz encouraging me to do more to reach my project honda :D
@@RemmyEvans just an FYI there I’d a tool you can use to groove the Oring in yourself. I’ve done it before and it’s on UA-cam as well. It’s a tool made by ISKY cams. You can do it even though your block is already assembled as well. Definitely worth looking into seeking the power you’re looking for.
No need for ARP main studs. Plenty of cars running 1000hp or more without. But the real reason is you have the have the block mains line honed when installing ARP mains. That gets spendy
This Restomod is going to be so fresh and so clean...keep up the hustle
@07:40 yes because you have to measure your thrust play, because it needs to be within spec as well. thats what protects crank while depressing the clutch pedal. enough space so oil will create a protective film while holding the clutch pedal in, but not so much that you get crank walk while depressing pedal.
Yes my k series em1 is dealing with this lol as we speak thrust washers are giving out I can wobble the pulley with a screw driver and when I press the clutch in it dies.. measures is important for the build
Your humbleness, intelligence and drive is well recognized! 🔥💥
Torquing heads and internal things are terrifying
Yes it is😅
Famous Nascar engine builder from 50s thru 80s deliberately ran his main journals a little loose and larger than anyone else to get more power at higher end. After all, unnecessary high oil pressure just increased paracitic drag on engine ( less horsepower). He got away with that Cheat for decades until blabber mouths and Nascar figured out how is engines lasted and made more horsepower than competition. Think in Car& Driver article; engine did just fine with only 25psi oil pressure foot to the floor at redline.
Wow, I am impressed about the time and money you spend on your build. I can't see anywhere thru your process where you are cheaping out, exept from painting your car yourself instead of paying a professional to do it. lol
I'm currently rebuilding my B series engine for the 3rd time now and always find engine building vids exciting.
Keep up the good work!
Thank you man! Good luck on your rebuild
Only thing I would recommend, make sure you you get a stretch gauge for the rod bolts and stretch to recommended specs from BC 👍🏾
Full send papi!. Heck yeah. Now this is a engine build video I can relate too 😊. Admit the k series is so much fun,simpler and easier than the subi boxer. I do like the ej25 but for me to own and build one, it will never happen. Hondabond ftw 💰. Bearing tangs face the exhaust side but you knew that already.
Let's go baby this honda bout to be a beast. Super excited for whats to come
Thank you! Should be good😆
I am enjoying this build been following from tiktok....
good job brotha. You guys make me want to built my motor more now hahha
If they have linished your journals the standard size bearings will be fine
Looking good brother.
Correct me if I'm wrong, for that area of camshat the micrometo spindle is not supposed to be a ball and not flat?
why did you did you go with the k20, i want to do a similar build with the same power but with a k24 block and k20z3 head for the vtec , is there a downside to using the k24 block?
I love the videos by the way they are very helpful. The most I've done to a car is brakes and an oil change, but i want to built a project Honda so badly, and your videos are helping me get an idea of how much i need to spend and itz encouraging me to do more to reach my project honda :D
Only downside is it's 1/2" taller.
man this going to be crazy build ! i can't wait to start my k swap Yellow crx 💪🏼
Let’s go man!
Woohoo!! Love motor builds
Mitutoyo are one of the leading brands here in australia
Yes! They are very well respected here as well
You gonna beat your friend zo6 and m4! 😂
Nicely done. One question though. Why didn’t you opt to have the block O-ring’d? Seeking 1000hp it’s definitely more of a necessity
Wasn’t thinking I needed it at the time😅
@@RemmyEvans just an FYI there I’d a tool you can use to groove the Oring in yourself. I’ve done it before and it’s on UA-cam as well. It’s a tool made by ISKY cams. You can do it even though your block is already assembled as well.
Definitely worth looking into seeking the power you’re looking for.
How come you didn’t go z3 head with k24 block?
The k20 treated me very good with the old setup so I wanted to keep the luck going😅
Good job bro 👌 could you please micrometer gauge part number 🙏
Mitutoyo 293-342-30 ! Thank you man 🙏🏽
I’d send the 30thou. Use 20w50 she will be minty
Why dont use arp in main 😳
No need for ARP main studs. Plenty of cars running 1000hp or more without. But the real reason is you have the have the block mains line honed when installing ARP mains. That gets spendy
@@PeteFromTheStreets OK, good to know
Mom lied… monsters do exist 🤘🤘
😂
Hay dura tu cómo 2 años más armando ese proyecto 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Easy to talk shit. Go do this your self
Ah yes the LS/Glide/th400 in foxbody 4 cylinder equivalent
Only thing I measured was ring gap. I’m ashamed, I’m an engineer. I should know better