Lovely result. All your sewing is fabulous. When I was young - back when home economics was still taught in high school , we used ban roll or a version of it even in women’s slacks. I really prefer it, such a lovely finish. I also like having a back center seam to the waistband with a little extra fabric. That way the pant is more easily altered at the waist if needed.
Thanks for liking the video. Yes, having extra fabric at the center back is a great idea, especially on a pair of dressier trousers. This pattern is for a pair of casual chinos and doesn't include that. But it would be very easy to redraw that seam.
Thank you Duane, I found this really helpful. I'm going to have a go with the ban roll as you suggest. I particularly liked the professional finish inside the waist band with the bound edge and curtain. One sees this in traditional gentleman's suits, a nice touch.
Hello, Duane, I've discovered your channel via your response to another sewer re Ban-Roll on Instagram, and I'me so glad I've found it. Think I'm going to be watching a LOT of your videos; found this one so clear and easy to follow. I really like that you don't skip over any details. Thank you.
Thank you and welcome. I'm trying to make these videos as informative as possible, without boring people to tears. My plan is to make videos as I work along on my projects. If there's a technique that I think is worth sharing, I'll slow down and make a tutorial.
I had forgotten Ban roll...I used to use it all the time...I don't foresee using it again on my clothing (total personal preference thing because it does look great) but it might be just the ticket for a family member I sew for...thanks for the reminder!
Thank you so much! I made a pair of these pants for my son and found portions of the instructions very difficult to follow. A second pair has sat unfinished for months and just needs the waistband. I will be making 2 more belt loops and following your instructions to finish. Thank you!!!
I'm glad it was helpful. I think your son will appreciate the extra belt loops, and the ban roll will be a life changer for your sewing for both men and women.
Thank you for a detailed tutorial on the use of Ban-Roll. I have only used it on small hems, which is not the true intention of the product. Now I can use it on the intended use. Thanks for sharing.
This is the game changer! It's what they use in the tailoring courses at FIT in New York. Some suppliers sell it by the yard. That might be a way to start. Once you've tried it you'll be buying the whole roll.
In my desire to make the perfect jeans, I unfortunately got the ban-roll that is made of stiff woven threads. I put a section of it on each side of the zipper, running to the side seams and have an elastic section at the back of the pant. I made three pairs of pants this way and those stiff threads started poking me while I was wearing them. It was awful! I had to unpick each waistband to enclose the edges of the ban-roll in seam binding! The inch or so where the button and button hole are are the only places I couldn't reach to enclose the edges. I may eventually just redo the waistbands if I have enough fabric. Don't get the stiff woven thread style ban-roll! Lots of people use that style to make tiny roll hems. I really don't want 50 yards of the wawak ban-roll, so I'm looking for smaller amounts, but it is sometimes hard to tell what kind it is.
Thanks for your comment. I'm so sorry you had a bad experience. I have never had this problem since I run it all around the waistband. Your comment may help other sewists who are considering an elasticized back.
There are many ways to make them. My preferred way is to make a "tube" and turn them. It can be very tedious. I make them one at a time and turn them with the help of a hemostat.
Thanks for posting this. The two Jedediah videos have been really helpful to me. I just completed my second pair with much better fly and waistband thanks to your advice. I struggled to find Ban roll in Scotland so ended up with something called Petersham which seems to work pretty well. The one thing that still gives me grief is the top stitching on the seat seam. Stitching from the right side and catching the two seam allowances (which I bound together and pressed to one side) seems nigh on impossible to do smoothly. Should I be binding the seam allowances separately and pressing them out flat and just catching the one seam allowance? This doesn't seem very clear from the instructions.
I'm glad the videos have been helpful. There are two ways to finish of the back seam. You can bind both back seams, sew the seam and press everything open. This is the way to go if you want to add extra material at the back so that the trousers could be let out in the future. If you're sure about the fit, press both seam allowances to the left side of the pant. (if you're working from the inside of the pant, press to the right). You can then apply the bias binding. You may want to trim the lower seam allowance to reduce bulk in the seam; in which case you're just binding the uppermost seam allowance. Now baste that seam into position. The basting is key and will give you the control you need to keep the curve without distorting everything. Then you can confidently topstitch 1/4" from the outside. Just stitch slowly as you approach the crotch, minding the distribution of the material.
Coincidentally I am making men's shorts. I dislike the way the waistband turns out. I'm going to try this method. I agree about the belt loops 5 is not helpful😊
Lovely result. All your sewing is fabulous. When I was young - back when home economics was still taught in high school , we used ban roll or a version of it even in women’s slacks. I really prefer it, such a lovely finish. I also like having a back center seam to the waistband with a little extra fabric. That way the pant is more easily altered at the waist if needed.
Thanks for liking the video. Yes, having extra fabric at the center back is a great idea, especially on a pair of dressier trousers. This pattern is for a pair of casual chinos and doesn't include that. But it would be very easy to redraw that seam.
Very helpful tutorial! Thank you so much for your careful and detailed instructions. 🙌
Thank you Duane, I found this really helpful. I'm going to have a go with the ban roll as you suggest. I particularly liked the professional finish inside the waist band with the bound edge and curtain. One sees this in traditional gentleman's suits, a nice touch.
Nothing short of fantastic
And thanks for the Ban Roll sourcing
Awesome video ⭐️
I'm always glad to hear that these videos are helpful. I hope to be making more in the future.
What a difference this technique is making on my trousers. I am so excited to finish. Thanks Duane fir another excellent session
So glad it's been helpful!
Hello, Duane, I've discovered your channel via your response to another sewer re Ban-Roll on Instagram, and I'me so glad I've found it. Think I'm going to be watching a LOT of your videos; found this one so clear and easy to follow. I really like that you don't skip over any details. Thank you.
Thank you and welcome. I'm trying to make these videos as informative as possible, without boring people to tears. My plan is to make videos as I work along on my projects. If there's a technique that I think is worth sharing, I'll slow down and make a tutorial.
@@mainelymenswear Very generous of you, and I know I'll be taking a look. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I had forgotten Ban roll...I used to use it all the time...I don't foresee using it again on my clothing (total personal preference thing because it does look great) but it might be just the ticket for a family member I sew for...thanks for the reminder!
Lovely thank you so much for this tutorial
Thank you so much! I made a pair of these pants for my son and found portions of the instructions very difficult to follow. A second pair has sat unfinished for months and just needs the waistband. I will be making 2 more belt loops and following your instructions to finish. Thank you!!!
I'm glad it was helpful. I think your son will appreciate the extra belt loops, and the ban roll will be a life changer for your sewing for both men and women.
Thank you for a detailed tutorial on the use of Ban-Roll. I have only used it on small hems, which is not the true intention of the product. Now I can use it on the intended use. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you. I hope you will give it a try. For about a $1 / Yd it's a great investment in the quality of your garments.
Thank you, Duane!
I hope it helps.
Very helpful. The inside of the waistband looks as good as the outside especially with the biased curtain and must be less bulky to finish and wear.
I hope you see how easy and straightforward this is. Having the right materials can make all the difference.
Thank you for your wonderful tutorial. The ban roll interfacing makes perfect sense. I will definately try it nexg time.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you! I welcome an alternative to fusible interfacing!
This is the game changer! It's what they use in the tailoring courses at FIT in New York. Some suppliers sell it by the yard. That might be a way to start. Once you've tried it you'll be buying the whole roll.
Thank you for an excellent tutorial!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Oh wow this looks impeccable, you inspire me so much to up the quality. Thank you for taking the time to show this.
Having the right materials can make a huge difference. Ban-Roll is very inexpensive and when you use it...Boom, you're at a new level in your makes.
In my desire to make the perfect jeans, I unfortunately got the ban-roll that is made of stiff woven threads. I put a section of it on each side of the zipper, running to the side seams and have an elastic section at the back of the pant. I made three pairs of pants this way and those stiff threads started poking me while I was wearing them. It was awful! I had to unpick each waistband to enclose the edges of the ban-roll in seam binding! The inch or so where the button and button hole are are the only places I couldn't reach to enclose the edges. I may eventually just redo the waistbands if I have enough fabric. Don't get the stiff woven thread style ban-roll! Lots of people use that style to make tiny roll hems.
I really don't want 50 yards of the wawak ban-roll, so I'm looking for smaller amounts, but it is sometimes hard to tell what kind it is.
Thanks for your comment. I'm so sorry you had a bad experience. I have never had this problem since I run it all around the waistband. Your comment may help other sewists who are considering an elasticized back.
Brilliant
Really well done! Very useful and detailed tutorial. Could you explain also how did you prepare your belt loops?
There are many ways to make them. My preferred way is to make a "tube" and turn them. It can be very tedious. I make them one at a time and turn them with the help of a hemostat.
Thanks for posting this. The two Jedediah videos have been really helpful to me. I just completed my second pair with much better fly and waistband thanks to your advice. I struggled to find Ban roll in Scotland so ended up with something called Petersham which seems to work pretty well. The one thing that still gives me grief is the top stitching on the seat seam. Stitching from the right side and catching the two seam allowances (which I bound together and pressed to one side) seems nigh on impossible to do smoothly. Should I be binding the seam allowances separately and pressing them out flat and just catching the one seam allowance? This doesn't seem very clear from the instructions.
I'm glad the videos have been helpful. There are two ways to finish of the back seam. You can bind both back seams, sew the seam and press everything open. This is the way to go if you want to add extra material at the back so that the trousers could be let out in the future. If you're sure about the fit, press both seam allowances to the left side of the pant. (if you're working from the inside of the pant, press to the right). You can then apply the bias binding. You may want to trim the lower seam allowance to reduce bulk in the seam; in which case you're just binding the uppermost seam allowance. Now baste that seam into position. The basting is key and will give you the control you need to keep the curve without distorting everything. Then you can confidently topstitch 1/4" from the outside. Just stitch slowly as you approach the crotch, minding the distribution of the material.
Thanks so much for the comprehensive explanation, I'll give all of that a try.
I've been reading your blog for some time now and am thrilled to watch your process here now.
What is the width of the Ban Roll?
It's 1.5 inch, which is pretty standard for men's trousers.
So happy you started your channel! Quick question- what width of ban-roll do you use? Thanks so much 😀
1.5 inches is pretty standard for a waistband.
Could the Ban roll be used on women’s pants too?
Of course. It's perfect for anyone.
Coincidentally I am making men's shorts. I dislike the way the waistband turns out. I'm going to try this method. I agree about the belt loops 5 is not helpful😊
I think you'll find that the bit of extra effort is well worth it.