On my 2011, the 2 abs clips are for a cover, and then once removed, underneath there is a pretty standard push one one side and the other goes up clip. I found it easier to first pop some of those nearby rubber grommets securing the ABS wire and removing the 4 bolts. Then take the bearing part way out to have easy access to the abs clips. It's probably super simple if you have a 2nd set of hands to hold the bearing while you quickly remove the clip cover and then abs plug from the old bearing. Thanks for the video. It helped a lot.
I got the sensor housing off but not the sensor. I stopped before damaging anything. I didn't feel any clips because it's such an awkward location to figure things out.
Understandable better safe than sorry. If possible I would put the car on jack stands to better see what's going on under there. If you look at the video on that portion you can see there is a clip nub on the top and bottom if I remember correctly. For this one I just made sure the top nub was disengaged on the clip and put the flathead screwdriver behind the whole clip then pried it out. Hope this helps. best of luck to you
Excellent video. I only need to replace a wheel stud and looks like it can be knocked out without having to remove the wheel bearing. Correct me if I'm wrong and thanks.
Thank you. Thanks for watching. I believe you can just knock them out without removing the wheel bearing. You may have to alter the guard on the back to make room for the studs when they're being removed. That would be something you would have to see if it was necessary as you begin working on the removal. Hope this is helpful.
@@markfoxoutdooradventures9621 thanks for confirming! I actually replaced them already and did not have to remove the wheel bearing or bend the guard. The rotor also does not need to be removed but the brake caliper does but it helps to have the rotor off to see what you're doing.
You're very welcome. That's good you were able to change them out without having mess with the guard or remove the bearings. That definitely makes it more convenient. I'm glad to hear you got the job done. That's awesome.
Thank you for the tutorial. At what mileage did the rear bearings fail? My XB has 131,000 miles and I can hear the rear driver's side bearing growling.
Omg. So you just pryed out the sensor and it came off? I managed to get the sensor housing off but not the sensor itself. I was looking or rather feeling for clips to pop with a screw driver but nothing. I gave up after an hour. It was bad.
Yes. It was a little tricky. I just made sure the top part was open on that clip before prying it out with the screwdriver from the back. Just make sure the little nub is not engaged on the clip so it will slide out. Hope this helps. Best of luck to you.
I don't keep gloves on hand but they would definitely be great for protection and convenience. Thanks for letting me know. I would say try the auto parts store for your replacement and if not there the junkyard is a good place to look. Thank you for watching
This video is for the rear I am dealing with the front and I cant get it off it's stuck. I'm on the east coast so we have a lot of rust issues here. not sure how to remove it
The front is completely different. First you have to remove the axle nut and pop out the cv axle from the bearings. Next you will have to remove the old bearings. Once this is done you have to have your new bearings pressed at a shop then reinstall them. I may be doing this on a different car in the future but it will be the same process.
does the bearing come with the hub? your titel says bearing replacement but clearly yu replaced the entie hub so im curious cause id rather replace mine as well instead of just a bearing
Yes. You might be able to replace the bearing somehow, but I think it is pretty standard to replace the whole hub. OEM manufacturer for hub/bearing is like $140. Cheap is like $50.
I picked these up from O'rielly's. I don't recall the brand. They were the cheapest brand available. I had them price match Autozone's price I believe at about $180 for the pair. They're still going strong. It has been over 3 years and driven many states and many miles maybe around 100,000 miles so far.
These are OEM. I just wanted to show everyone these rear disc brakes since all the videos I saw online were drum brakes like they usually are on the rear.
To be honest I just tightened a little past snug to what I felt comfortable with. I don't have a ratchet that tells me the torque force I used. I just made sure they were seated tight enough to not strip the bolts.
On my 2011, the 2 abs clips are for a cover, and then once removed, underneath there is a pretty standard push one one side and the other goes up clip. I found it easier to first pop some of those nearby rubber grommets securing the ABS wire and removing the 4 bolts. Then take the bearing part way out to have easy access to the abs clips. It's probably super simple if you have a 2nd set of hands to hold the bearing while you quickly remove the clip cover and then abs plug from the old bearing. Thanks for the video. It helped a lot.
You're very welcome. I am glad this was helpful. Thank you for watching and the advice.
I got the sensor housing off but not the sensor. I stopped before damaging anything. I didn't feel any clips because it's such an awkward location to figure things out.
Understandable better safe than sorry. If possible I would put the car on jack stands to better see what's going on under there. If you look at the video on that portion you can see there is a clip nub on the top and bottom if I remember correctly. For this one I just made sure the top nub was disengaged on the clip and put the flathead screwdriver behind the whole clip then pried it out. Hope this helps. best of luck to you
Thanks for the video! This is exactly what i needed to see to add shims on this right rear wheel hub in order to bring my toe to factory spec.
You're welcome. I am glad this helped you.
Great video, precise and straightforward 👏👏
Thank you. Glad you found this helpful
Exactly what I needed. Thank you.
You're welcome. Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching
Thanks for the video, I think I will need to replace this, I think impact gun will making take out the nuts more easily.
You're welcome definitely faster with power tools if you have them
Excellent video. I only need to replace a wheel stud and looks like it can be knocked out without having to remove the wheel bearing. Correct me if I'm wrong and thanks.
Thank you. Thanks for watching. I believe you can just knock them out without removing the wheel bearing. You may have to alter the guard on the back to make room for the studs when they're being removed. That would be something you would have to see if it was necessary as you begin working on the removal. Hope this is helpful.
@@markfoxoutdooradventures9621 thanks for confirming! I actually replaced them already and did not have to remove the wheel bearing or bend the guard. The rotor also does not need to be removed but the brake caliper does but it helps to have the rotor off to see what you're doing.
You're very welcome. That's good you were able to change them out without having mess with the guard or remove the bearings. That definitely makes it more convenient. I'm glad to hear you got the job done. That's awesome.
Thank you for the tutorial. At what mileage did the rear bearings fail? My XB has 131,000 miles and I can hear the rear driver's side bearing growling.
You're welcome. I want to say it was around 160k but we're currently at 320k since changing them. Best of luck to you
Excellent. Great detail..
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching
Goddamn Popeye forearms and s***. I know you've been working on cars your whole life. Thanks for the video got to put some on.
Yeah definitely lol. I'm glad you found this useful. Thanks for watching and the comment. I hope it is a quick and easy project for you.
Omg. So you just pryed out the sensor and it came off? I managed to get the sensor housing off but not the sensor itself. I was looking or rather feeling for clips to pop with a screw driver but nothing. I gave up after an hour. It was bad.
Yes. It was a little tricky. I just made sure the top part was open on that clip before prying it out with the screwdriver from the back. Just make sure the little nub is not engaged on the clip so it will slide out. Hope this helps. Best of luck to you.
Hey Mark! How do you work without gloves? You can damage the epidermal layer of your skin! Mark, where to find adust cover replacement ?
I don't keep gloves on hand but they would definitely be great for protection and convenience. Thanks for letting me know. I would say try the auto parts store for your replacement and if not there the junkyard is a good place to look. Thank you for watching
This video is for the rear I am dealing with the front and I cant get it off it's stuck. I'm on the east coast so we have a lot of rust issues here. not sure how to remove it
You may need to pound it with a sledge hammer to pop it off. I have seen that method used for heavily rusted parts. Good luck
@@markfoxoutdooradventures9621 ill try that
Just let me know if you get it. Good luck. I had to pound off this one with a hammer as well since it was fused on
Is the process the same for the front
The front is completely different. First you have to remove the axle nut and pop out the cv axle from the bearings. Next you will have to remove the old bearings. Once this is done you have to have your new bearings pressed at a shop then reinstall them. I may be doing this on a different car in the future but it will be the same process.
does the bearing come with the hub? your titel says bearing replacement but clearly yu replaced the entie hub so im curious cause id rather replace mine as well instead of just a bearing
It is actually just one piece. If you were doing the front then you would have to press the bearing in place. For the rear that isn't the case.
Yes. You might be able to replace the bearing somehow, but I think it is pretty standard to replace the whole hub. OEM manufacturer for hub/bearing is like $140. Cheap is like $50.
Did you use a name brand wheel bearing hub kit or a no name, how did hold up?
I picked these up from O'rielly's. I don't recall the brand. They were the cheapest brand available. I had them price match Autozone's price I believe at about $180 for the pair. They're still going strong. It has been over 3 years and driven many states and many miles maybe around 100,000 miles so far.
@@markfoxoutdooradventures9621 That’s awesome!
Are these OEM or after market?
These are OEM. I just wanted to show everyone these rear disc brakes since all the videos I saw online were drum brakes like they usually are on the rear.
What if I don’t take the caliper apart. I just leave it connected to the bracket and take bracket bolts out.
you don't need to take apart the caliper at all unless you are replacing your brakes and brake clips as I did in this video.
@@markfoxoutdooradventures9621 thanks
you're welcome thank you for watching
Is this same for 2008?
yes as long as you have disc brakes on the rear.
Torque specifications?
To be honest I just tightened a little past snug to what I felt comfortable with. I don't have a ratchet that tells me the torque force I used. I just made sure they were seated tight enough to not strip the bolts.
Is it the same for an 08 xd?
I believe it will be the same process as long as you have the same disc brakes on the rear as well.
First
Thanks for watching