I THINK I GOT IT! Fixing the 1650 clutch eater.
Вставка
- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- I think I found out what was going on with Alan's 1650 and why it keeps breaking the clutch. So that means it is time to go back together. Will it move? Even more important, will it stop? Keep watching to find out
MERCH: chris-losey.cr...
FACEBOOK / that-oliver-guy-youtub...
PARTS on Amazon (I make small commission on each sale.) smile.amazon.c...
Want to write? Send mail to:
That Oliver Guy
PO Box 299
Eaton Rapids, MI 48827
Due to time constraints and privacy, I do not offer phone consultations.
As always, Thanks for watching!
![[UA] Eternal Fire проти NAVI | EPL Season 20 Malta](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/chvlsDygrZM/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for sharing what you found Chris, I have the same homemade guide pins (bolt with the head cut off) but I cut a slot in them with an angle grinder so they can removed with a flat screw driver. These pins also come in handy when doing heads as it keeps the gasket from smearing on engines that do not use head studs
That's a great idea! Thanks Kyle.
i respect a mechanic that looks for the root of the problem and is not afraid to accept responsibility.
MR Oliver King, if she can be fixed, you can do it, thank you Chris
for a good post.
Thank you for watching!
We had a white 4-150 with some clutch and brake issues and it wouldn’t stop on a dime (even though the clutch has never been replaced) and the over under hydraulic system would slip occasionally. We took it to the shop and it was cheaper than I expected. Thanks for these great videos!
The clutch cover was $169 and is brand new. That was a no-brainer to me.
A dab of wheel bearing grease holds those washers in place under the tractor frame.
Yea Chris love watching till next time.
Thanks!
Thanks for the memories. It is still hard to watch you put that chain coupler on without remembering doing them in a hog lot especially when it was 100 degrees or 10 degrees.
My worst was a dairy feed lot that needed scarped.
Great work Chris, I appreciate how much tips, tricks, and method your share. Now do my 770 that needs a clutch next! haha! Getting closer to putting the PTO in that Super 99 or 990? I can't recall which. I am excited to see one of them on a dyno.
It's the Super 99. I've been busy everything else, it's slipped my mind.
@ThatOliverGuyChris I get that, that's where I am with the clutch in my 770. I keep moving it back to the back burner and forgetting it.
Hi Chris nice job any chance of a walk round your yard where you fitted the loader and a talk about the old ploughs ect thanks
ua-cam.com/video/e7fX_NjK5qM/v-deo.htmlsi=gOlSOpxYaPJ36gfH
Check out this video for the plows
Nice! You got er! 💪🏻 Good job!
Thanks. Time will tell if it is a good fix.
Well done Chris, Alan will be a happy chappy. That clutch is working perfectly. Any more of those home videos from your dad and grandad ? They were cool to watch and also how close were the next to you Oliver dealers? 🇮🇪thank you
I think I have uploaded all of the farm and dealership videos. There's some personal footage that isn't going to mean much to most people. The closest one to us was about 15 miles south. There was another about 25 miles northwest, and another 30 miles west. It was good Oliver country especially in the 1950s and 60s
Another great show how it should be done video.
Thank you very much!
Chris, It still amazes me as to how many components of this type machine line up so precisely. Very impressive engineering. This goes for mechanical machines. Nice work on your part .👍👍👍🙏🏽✌🏻🇺🇸😎
Thanks!
I had the same problem with my 1650 oliver. I change everything thati believe that should of been change. Two weeks later the clutch stop working. When I tore it down I discovered a stud broke. Then I give it a hard look when installing the new parts. I found there was a little play were the throw bearing rides on so I ordered a new one and put it back together. It work perfectly for around 20 years then I had to tear it back down because it was worn out
Carl, did you have trouble finding the right combination of clutch release tube and bearing sleeve? I'm wondering what are the correct measurements, as new tube is too big for new sleeve.
Impressive.
Do you ever use that little 44?
Not really.
Looking to get come down with the engine not much but a little bit.
Did you use a "bottoming" tap?
Nope
Hi Chris. I know this is way off topic but I have rebuilt a 1650 oliver gas job with . My head was machined and when I tried to set the clearances for the valves it appeared my push rods was a little long so I shimed the rocker are assembly to get the the adjustment I need. Now for my question. I filled the radiator and I noticed a little drips of antifreeze seeping out of the head completely around the head and gasket. I'm lost did 100lbs of torque. To me it appears the head gasket isn't squished the way it should be. I'm woundering if the down pins are hold it up ,or the fire rings isn't squishing and if the blind holes for the head bolts are deep enough. Just wondering if you may of come across this problem in the past ?
My first thought is the sleeve protrusion is too high. That will get the fire rings crushed but the other seals won't get enough crush to seal properly. It sounds like the head has been milled a few times, I've never had to shim the rocker supports. What you said about the dowel pins may be the problem, they might be bottoming out in the holes that they go in to the head. The head bolts could be bottoming out as well. You hate to waste a gasket, but it it was mine I'd pull the head back off, check the sleeve protrusion, the dowel pin hole depth, and even thread the bolts all the way in and measure from the block deck to head of the bolt and compare that to the thickness of the head.
@ThatOliverGuyChris your a good man Chris. I read a thread where someone and a rebuilt oliver engine and they had the same problem. They said they let it run and it sealed itself up. So I figured it was worth a try before I tore it back down. I fired it up and to my surprise 20min or so it was done leaking. Crossing fingers it stays like that. Wow a person has to love a newly rebuilt engine. They just sound so nice
Go White!
Chris, I hope that will take care of that issue on Allen's tractor for a quite a long time. Does Allen have more than one tractor? Thanks Michael
Yes. The 1755 at my place is his , and he has a 550 at home.
Here's hoping that's the last time for that job for years😊
Fingers crossed 🤞
Well you will know in about 18 months that’s about when you did it last time I think!😂
😂 It can be the 4th annual clutch jamboree!
🌹 Promo`SM
Bigger clutch and a stepped flywheel or put shims between the flywheel and pressure plate when bolting it together
To keep your engine bolt washer's in place, a little dab of grease works well.
That's a good idea. I've done it with other things, I don't know why it didn't occur to me for this application. Thanks!
Thanks for a great video and enjoy your labor day weekend! Are your beans starting to turn yellow yet?
Mine aren't, but some in the area are just starting to.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Thanks. Just trying to gauge how long it might be until we get the long awaited harvest videos from you. 🤠
@@bigfoot4515 it's probably going to be the first week of October, maybe the last week of September.
As always 👍 👍
Thanks again!
I changed the chain coupler on my 1850D because it was worn out loose and flopping around. The new one wouldn't stay on no matter the combination of cotter pins. 1 long 2short ,2long ,4short. The pins would ware out the cotter pins and throw the chain. Taking out the speedometer cable.I used the tractor raking hay light loads hilly KY. country. It would chatter a lot. Finally piano wire the diameter of the cotter pin . It was a bear to bend in that tight space. Been on there long enough for the chain to get tight and freeze up. I think I can finally chance another speedometer cable.
Chris I didn't see any shims under the motor mounts to make sure the sprocket's matched Gene used very particular about that he said it helped with chain where and power shaft and clutch damage just something I remember have a good day Chris Z
These are lined up great as is. Generally the 16s and 15s didn't have an alignment problem because the bell housing bolts into the block. With the larger tractors the bell housing bolts to the plate on the rear of the engine, but not directly to the block. That plate is thin enough it starts letting the hydra power droop and the sprockets get out of alignment. It's my opinion that shimming can take care of that problem, but then the power shaft starts getting out of alignment. It's better to run a bolt through the frame, put a plate on top of it to spread the pressure over the bottom of the hydra power and then adjust the bolt to get them lined up. Essentially, support the hydra power to take away the sag from the steel plate on the rear of the block.
Looks good, I did my 550 about a year ago. Ended up having to adjust lever height when I got it all together.
Learned some tricks from this 2-parter. Thanks for the demonstration and clear explanations.
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Chris, I am impressed with the extent of your knowledge on all of the equipment you work on. Us farmers have to be so versatile in all aspects, sort of a jack of all trades. When you showed the part where you put the cotter pin, I didn't do that one time and had all kinds of problems with loosing the chain, which caused my wiring to get ripped apart, had to get a wiring harness, one of the high cost of a dumb mistake. Nice job, congratulations on getting it fixed. Thanks for sharing, I hope you have a nice week.
Thanks!
You made a good decision to replace the pressure plate. Great to see it back together!
That 1650 looks and sounds good. Thanks for sharing the effort!
The labor alone would pay for it. Good thing I work cheap. Lolol
Could you have added a washer to it?
To what?
@@ThatOliverGuyChris the bolts that you drilled out. Ad a washer to take up bolt depth.
@@darrellnichols6179 then the bolt shoulder wouldn't engage the flywheel.
Would that had made your measurements you found off on the last one???
I hadn't thought of that, but it very well could have. So a double whammy of a cover that wasn't secure, and a pressure plate that wasn't grabbing evenly. That makes me think the bolt holes were the problem even more. Thanks for the input!
Dealing with shops that aren't used to the intricacies of Oliver Engineering makes you have to triple-check everything nowadays. When you have guys that dealt with lots of Oliver stuff they just knew what to do! It's the same thing I have to do when I have stuff done on Any Antique car that's not a Chevy or Ford but even then the pre-1955 stuff is so different you have to be extra careful! Keeping my fingers and toes crossed this one lasts for years!@@ThatOliverGuyChris
Hope you got it fixed this time around Chris.
Me too. Maybe I should take it to the Freedom Festival and try the clutch out on the pulling sled!
Lol! Maybe you should Lol!