Redesigninga PCB's is not something we see tech's doing very often. Amazing! I'm sure others need them. Those old boards are really getting yellow from heat.
I procrastinate because a wise old man once told me "Why do today what you can put off until tomorrow ". He was a Greek philosopher. His name was Procrasticles. Lol 😂
a mental health project BEFORE a Mesa mess! AMEN! I procrastinate until I can visualize the end product, then I work non stop. Project cooks in the mental oven (often back burner) until ready to GO!
Yes, that's true for me, too. You sometimes can't see a path forward and it can lead to depression which is dangerous. But your brain processes the steps in the background and before you know it, the mountain doesn't seem so insurmountable.
Great job brother man and I like seeing you give new life to the Classic 30. Some kid needing a reasonably priced amp will love it and that's why you do what you do man.
I build the goal posts for the AFL, NRL and Union. Same thing only with rivets. When you randomly pick up the exact amount you need, it's a win. I do amps as a side hustle/hobby, I won't ever take another boogie in for service, hate them haha
Procrastination for me = my own personal and varying levels of schizophrenia... ...and as far as this build, you're pumping so much magic into this uck it can't wind up being anything bur freaky brilliant (!) I can't wait to hear it
Oh, and my answer to your question, I don't actually procrastinate. In fact, I have the exact opposite problem. I try to start something before I know what the hell I'm even doing. That's how I wound up with basically a perfectly done Hammond AO44 to guitar amp conversion. I kept it dead simple, removed the shiny germanium input transistor and the passive stuff it was there to compensate for (it made the amp dark), jumped the hot lead of the input straight to the grid of the first ECL86, removed the NFB loop. If I procrastinated some, maybe I would've done some reading first, I might've even added a 12ax7 up front (that power transformer is the same one they use on much bigger amps and could likely handle 2 or 3 of them) and wound up with a gain monster, but I also would have put some sort of EQ in there, and I'm actually glad I didn't do that. The way it sounds as is? It's like one of those early 50s diamond in the rough type boxy sounding practice combos that all you have to do is run the internal speaker taps to a better cabinet and they sound amazing. At the same time, I can also use it with my standalone preamp, because it doesn't have its own preamp section and input EQ curve already there, it's raw. So, you know, there are benefits and downsides to procrastinating.
That squiggly foil used as a capacitor probably adds some inductance as well; its an LC network, not only from the air gaps but from the capacitance of the board material.
@@BradsGuitarGarage , that could be! It's interesting how rarely we see ferrrites added on to the power cords of devices with switching power supplies; nor do we typically see them on the plate or grid leads of output tubes in high-gain amplifiers (although I've seen a few old tube mic paging/PA amps with inductors inline with the plates or screens).
wonder if u used MORE angle clips to secure the 3 boards...and used regular cloth wire for the jumpers...would that make it harder to break those jumpers...the brackets would take all the force of the board connections
One little problem, there's no position for them on the other two boards. There are traces and pads and components in the way. The wires aren't an inherent problem until they've been flexed a half-dozen times. The trick is to just replace them if you need to pull the PCBs and flatten them to work on them. Then, you get a few more bends out of the new ones without worrying about it.
Making shit stuff better. It's as good a reason as any, to do anything! Man, you got me on the procrastination bit. Thanks for being honest. We're all afraid of failure, to some degree. I sure as hell am, and I sure as hell procrastinate because of it.
So, having become intimately familiar with this circuit, is the reverb the only thing that has a solid state gain stage? The effects loop just taps the output from the last preamp stage, right? The diodes are part of the power supply circuit, and the IC's are for the reverb, correct? I'm just curious, because this thing seems to have the ability to be driven quite hard (and I talk dirty to it too) without going into that kind of clipping that sounds like there's a compression pedal after a distortion pedal if you know what I mean? Like, I was quite surprised with it. I don't know if the newer ones, the reboot/reissue models, have been drastically changed, but mine, very late 90s model I think, sounds like what I would expect if I ran the preamp of a Superlead into the poweramp of an AC 30.
@@thomasrichmond1916 Yep. It's actually a remarkable anomaly when you consider when it first came out. Now? Yeah, 15 or 20 or 30 watt EL84 amps with gain to spare from the preamp section are a fairly common thing, especially as home recording has gotten cheaper and better, but back then it was kinda a whoe new animal. Gain and master volume, 3 band EQ, multi-stage overdrive circuit, then a freakin AC30 styke output. And cheap. I LOVE it.
You know, from the way these things are built, I feel like I'm going to have to stop urinating inside mine. The problem is mostly drinking beer, I can just only drink hard stuff before we play our set, that way I don't have to piss halfway through.
I procrastinate because I have adhd. and yeah I hate failure. Start things, then not finish and start a new one. Or figure out a better way to to do it and start over (and not finish)
If the bare-wire jumpers are magnetic ---- as component leads often are ---- a long strip magnet might hold them straight-out in place while you solder them. I don't know why component leads are often found to be magnetic, perhaps there's iron or steel alloyed into the copper, or maybe they're nickel-plated ? I can see how having the leads being magnetic might be helpful for automated PCB stuffing and trimming/removal of excess lead length.
I didn't notice any magnetic properties in this case, being Carrol branded single strand tinned copper, but many component leads seem to be going for steel instead these days. Cheaper, I guess.
@@BradsGuitarGarage , I also wonder if the manufacturers prefer it because maybe it makes life easier for certain manufacturing operations if the leads of the components are mildly magnetic. I've known for 40 years or so that cheap speaker wire, especially the stuff with clear insulation where one side of the zip lead is tinned a silvery color and the other conductor looks like bare copper, often contains iron or steel and you can pick up the cut off bits with a magnet.
Why not just handwire a classic 30? I wish I had the knowledge to design a layout or someone who knows how to would I would do it in a heartbeat. So far I have only buit a Champ 5f1. If purchasing a layout was affordable I would be in.
Nothing. I have an anti-static mat, but these are valve amps, so not an issue. Even in solid state, I've never had an issue. Doesn't hurt to be on the safe side though.
I removed the remainder with Shellite and IPA did work albeit a bit less effective. I didn't want to dissolve the glue while there was a large amount of it due to the slimy mess that would ensue, requiring many rinse cycles to clean the board thoroughly.
@@BradsGuitarGarage yeah I watched the whole video. My experience with regular hot glue is that it comes off in one solid piece if you hit it with some IPA, no heat needed no nothing. It probably isn't hot glue per se, but something similar
@@BradsGuitarGarage Exactly. Heat actually makes it gooey in my experience. That's why I don't think it's really hot glue if you're telling me it didn't just dissolve with ipa. It may be something similar, but not standard hot glue.
Redesigninga PCB's is not something we see tech's doing very often. Amazing! I'm sure others need them. Those old boards are really getting yellow from heat.
Not the smartest thing I've done from a financial point of view, but fun, nonetheless!
I procrastinate because a wise old man once told me "Why do today what you can put off until tomorrow ". He was a Greek philosopher. His name was Procrasticles. Lol 😂
a mental health project BEFORE a Mesa mess! AMEN! I procrastinate until I can visualize the end product, then I work non stop. Project cooks in the mental oven (often back burner) until ready to GO!
Yes, that's true for me, too. You sometimes can't see a path forward and it can lead to depression which is dangerous. But your brain processes the steps in the background and before you know it, the mountain doesn't seem so insurmountable.
Great job brother man and I like seeing you give new life to the Classic 30. Some kid needing a reasonably priced amp will love it and that's why you do what you do man.
I think I probably procrastinate for exactly the same reason you do. Nice job on the PCB!
Love your pcb's designs... you're in a class by yourself
Yes, Uneconomical idiot, is that a class?
I build the goal posts for the AFL, NRL and Union. Same thing only with rivets. When you randomly pick up the exact amount you need, it's a win. I do amps as a side hustle/hobby, I won't ever take another boogie in for service, hate them haha
I can tell by that comment that you have a 1000yd stare whenever someone mentions Mesa.
I feel for you, my friend!
hi, I need this PCB. Can you help me PCB/PCB files? By the way, good work❤🤘
The Classic 30 is a bit fragile but when they are working right they sound great.
Procrastination for me = my own personal and varying levels of schizophrenia...
...and as far as this build, you're pumping so much magic into this uck it can't wind up being anything
bur freaky brilliant (!) I can't wait to hear it
Good luck on that note, mate. Take care of yourself.
Oh, and my answer to your question, I don't actually procrastinate. In fact, I have the exact opposite problem. I try to start something before I know what the hell I'm even doing. That's how I wound up with basically a perfectly done Hammond AO44 to guitar amp conversion. I kept it dead simple, removed the shiny germanium input transistor and the passive stuff it was there to compensate for (it made the amp dark), jumped the hot lead of the input straight to the grid of the first ECL86, removed the NFB loop. If I procrastinated some, maybe I would've done some reading first, I might've even added a 12ax7 up front (that power transformer is the same one they use on much bigger amps and could likely handle 2 or 3 of them) and wound up with a gain monster, but I also would have put some sort of EQ in there, and I'm actually glad I didn't do that. The way it sounds as is? It's like one of those early 50s diamond in the rough type boxy sounding practice combos that all you have to do is run the internal speaker taps to a better cabinet and they sound amazing. At the same time, I can also use it with my standalone preamp, because it doesn't have its own preamp section and input EQ curve already there, it's raw. So, you know, there are benefits and downsides to procrastinating.
That squiggly foil used as a capacitor probably adds some inductance as well; its an LC network, not only from the air gaps but from the capacitance of the board material.
May be a poor man's ferrite bead from back in the day.
@@BradsGuitarGarage , that could be! It's interesting how rarely we see ferrrites added on to the power cords of devices with switching power supplies; nor do we typically see them on the plate or grid leads of output tubes in high-gain amplifiers (although I've seen a few old tube mic paging/PA amps with inductors inline with the plates or screens).
Getting rid of the bent solid core wires between the boards would go a long way.
I procrastinate for partly the exact same reason, but also as a result of executive dysfunction courtesy of ADHD.
A tip to remove hot glue: Spray it with Contact Cleaner or any cold spray ... it makes the glue becomes a hard peel and you can pull it off easily.
I'll give that a go. Thanks mate.
Mozzarellaing!
Any chance you might start selling these in your store?
wonder if u used MORE angle clips to secure the 3 boards...and used regular cloth wire for the jumpers...would that make it harder to break those jumpers...the brackets would take all the force of the board connections
One little problem, there's no position for them on the other two boards.
There are traces and pads and components in the way.
The wires aren't an inherent problem until they've been flexed a half-dozen times.
The trick is to just replace them if you need to pull the PCBs and flatten them to work on them.
Then, you get a few more bends out of the new ones without worrying about it.
Making shit stuff better. It's as good a reason as any, to do anything!
Man, you got me on the procrastination bit. Thanks for being honest. We're all afraid of failure, to some degree. I sure as hell am, and I sure as hell procrastinate because of it.
So, having become intimately familiar with this circuit, is the reverb the only thing that has a solid state gain stage? The effects loop just taps the output from the last preamp stage, right? The diodes are part of the power supply circuit, and the IC's are for the reverb, correct? I'm just curious, because this thing seems to have the ability to be driven quite hard (and I talk dirty to it too) without going into that kind of clipping that sounds like there's a compression pedal after a distortion pedal if you know what I mean? Like, I was quite surprised with it. I don't know if the newer ones, the reboot/reissue models, have been drastically changed, but mine, very late 90s model I think, sounds like what I would expect if I ran the preamp of a Superlead into the poweramp of an AC 30.
I’ve compared it to an ac 30 with the balls of a Marshall. And those American ones seem to be going crazy cheap
@@thomasrichmond1916 Yep. It's actually a remarkable anomaly when you consider when it first came out. Now? Yeah, 15 or 20 or 30 watt EL84 amps with gain to spare from the preamp section are a fairly common thing, especially as home recording has gotten cheaper and better, but back then it was kinda a whoe new animal. Gain and master volume, 3 band EQ, multi-stage overdrive circuit, then a freakin AC30 styke output. And cheap. I LOVE it.
You know, from the way these things are built, I feel like I'm going to have to stop urinating inside mine. The problem is mostly drinking beer, I can just only drink hard stuff before we play our set, that way I don't have to piss halfway through.
I procrastinate because I have adhd. and yeah I hate failure. Start things, then not finish and start a new one. Or figure out a better way to to do it and start over (and not finish)
btw I am procrastinating at this very moment
If the bare-wire jumpers are magnetic ---- as component leads often are ---- a long strip magnet might hold them straight-out in place while you solder them. I don't know why component leads are often found to be magnetic, perhaps there's iron or steel alloyed into the copper, or maybe they're nickel-plated ? I can see how having the leads being magnetic might be helpful for automated PCB stuffing and trimming/removal of excess lead length.
I didn't notice any magnetic properties in this case, being Carrol branded single strand tinned copper, but many component leads seem to be going for steel instead these days. Cheaper, I guess.
@@BradsGuitarGarage , I also wonder if the manufacturers prefer it because maybe it makes life easier for certain manufacturing operations if the leads of the components are mildly magnetic. I've known for 40 years or so that cheap speaker wire, especially the stuff with clear insulation where one side of the zip lead is tinned a silvery color and the other conductor looks like bare copper, often contains iron or steel and you can pick up the cut off bits with a magnet.
@@goodun2974 true words. That would make sense from a production point of view. Not sure.
those cap skins look like my fingers 😆
I was going to procrastinate this morning but put it off until tomorrow.
Maybe tomorrow, mate.
Why not just handwire a classic 30? I wish I had the knowledge to design a layout or someone who knows how to would I would do it in a heartbeat. So far I have only buit a Champ 5f1. If purchasing a layout was affordable I would be in.
Let’s cut to the chase. How do y’all sleep when your beds are burning??
Dunno, but you should see me dance while the world is turning!
@@BradsGuitarGarage 😂😂😂
Why isn't stranded wire used in areas where wires may be bent several times? Is stranded bad for RF or some other reason? TIA.
Especially in ribbons?
Have you ever used 1/2" lengths of stranded wire?
It wicks up the solder and becomes no better than solid core in malleability.
That hot snot can be a pain. What do you do about esd?
Nothing. I have an anti-static mat, but these are valve amps, so not an issue.
Even in solid state, I've never had an issue.
Doesn't hurt to be on the safe side though.
@@BradsGuitarGarage Thanks mate
Hot glue can be easily removed with IPA without the need to heat it up first. You should give it a try
I removed the remainder with Shellite and IPA did work albeit a bit less effective.
I didn't want to dissolve the glue while there was a large amount of it due to the slimy mess that would ensue, requiring many rinse cycles to clean the board thoroughly.
@@BradsGuitarGarage yeah I watched the whole video. My experience with regular hot glue is that it comes off in one solid piece if you hit it with some IPA, no heat needed no nothing. It probably isn't hot glue per se, but something similar
So you reckon it leeches under and makes it let go? Interesting, I'll try it first go next time.
@@BradsGuitarGarage Exactly. Heat actually makes it gooey in my experience. That's why I don't think it's really hot glue if you're telling me it didn't just dissolve with ipa. It may be something similar, but not standard hot glue.
@@alexisdrosopoulos Can confirm, tried it soon after your comment and it works a treat.
Thank you, mate!
chicken eggs 5:57
Would you be interested in selling a set of boards?!
You really want to torture yourself with this job?
It's not advised as a particularly time or money efficient repair.
@@BradsGuitarGarageI need just the el84 socket board
@@BradsGuitarGarage Happy to buy Gerber files from you
Brad
If it’s hot glue it will come off with 99% alcohol .
It did do that too, I found out after testing isopropyl 99.97% after the video.