"My love affair with the 2nd gen dodge truck is coming to an end" Yupp, I know those feels.. I've been brainstorming dealing with a cracked and broken lower dash, wanting to fabricate something so I can put on the new dash.. Chrysler should have to manufacturer new lower dash at cost for dodge truck owners.. They don't want us driving these 12v diesels, they want new truck buyers..
I share your pain...did the same thing with my '95,...had a faint coolant smell when the heater was on (I'm in AZ so when do I ever need the heater, right?) I wasn't going to pull the dash until either the A/C failed or the leak got worse (A/C is a must have out here). A/C compressor ate itself so I replaced EVERYTHING (as you know, you only want to pull the dash once). Lower dash broken all to hell. I used fiberglass and epoxy for my repair...lasted about 8 years, but is now failing (lower dash) in other areas. There is an aftermarket, replacement lower dash, but I just can't spring for a $1700 part. (DRT Parts if you are interested, '98-2002 so modifications would be required for '94-'97 trucks). Thanks for posting.
The dealer had to replace my heater/AC air box due to water leaking into the interior of my Odyssey. A couple of years later, I noticed they cut the frame on the glove box, instead of pulling the dash, to get access. Once done, they installed a couple of metal strips, where the glove box frame was cut, to reinforce it.
Not fun! I had to replace both my dash top and the under plastic support because it was cracked and rattling badly on my 2001 Ram 2500. I got "lucky" found the correct and un damaged one piece dash support in agate (AZ code) at a local p-n-p yard. An educational learning experience, it took me 5 hours to get it out undamaged, but I learned a lot about taking my dashboard assembly out on my truck. For those of you crazy enough to do this, buy the LMC unit instead of the "G " unit. The G unit doesn't match the vent pattern like the original and you need to paint it to match if you don't like black and the mine required extensive trimming to properly line up the mounting holes for the top of the dash screws and the "A" pillar on the right side. It might be that my sample was poorly cut, but be warned that they advise you "that some trimming maybe required to fit properly." It took me over 10 hours to replace my dash top and under support, not including the time to replace the heater core, evap core, blend door actuator. If you have the dash and heater a/c box out, replace the heater, ac evap and heater actuator at the same time as it never fails that one of those items will fail shortly after you put the dash back in.
I would probably take the seats out, but it can certainly be done with the seats left in. It's a little easier if you have a helper to hold one end of the dash.
Pretty much just socket wrenches. It's a good idea to have the adapters to disconnect the AC lines. And bring some WD40 along to spray in the AC disconnects if you're doing this in a junkyard.
Looks great you did a good job
Thanks Jimmy
"My love affair with the 2nd gen dodge truck is coming to an end" Yupp, I know those feels.. I've been brainstorming dealing with a cracked and broken lower dash, wanting to fabricate something so I can put on the new dash.. Chrysler should have to manufacturer new lower dash at cost for dodge truck owners.. They don't want us driving these 12v diesels, they want new truck buyers..
Good luck to Chrysler trying to sell
$50k and up Dodge trucks.
I share your pain...did the same thing with my '95,...had a faint coolant smell when the heater was on (I'm in AZ so when do I ever need the heater, right?) I wasn't going to pull the dash until either the A/C failed or the leak got worse (A/C is a must have out here). A/C compressor ate itself so I replaced EVERYTHING (as you know, you only want to pull the dash once). Lower dash broken all to hell. I used fiberglass and epoxy for my repair...lasted about 8 years, but is now failing (lower dash) in other areas. There is an aftermarket, replacement lower dash, but I just can't spring for a $1700 part. (DRT Parts if you are interested, '98-2002 so modifications would be required for '94-'97 trucks). Thanks for posting.
Yeah, I know. I guess that they weren't meant to last forever.
The dealer had to replace my heater/AC air box due to water leaking into the interior of my Odyssey. A couple of years later, I noticed they cut the frame on the glove box, instead of pulling the dash, to get access. Once done, they installed a couple of metal strips, where the glove box frame was cut, to reinforce it.
Nice. You have to "love" the short cuts that some mechanics will take.
Then 360 Motors are good when you take that plenum gasket off and put a better intake
Yeah, I'm sure. I just needed a problem fixed.
Thanks
there is also several videos of installing 3rd gen dashes in the 2nd gen dodges
No kidding, I had no idea. I've also seen several 3rd Gen dashes that were just as brittle as these. I guess that they weren't meant to last forever.
@@Chuck_House_of_Mopar on you tube there is a 1968 dodge with 4th gen dash seats and door panels looks like it came in it its 4 door as well
@@DependableAutoTruck I'll have to search it out.
Thanks
Not fun! I had to replace both my dash top and the under plastic support because it was cracked and rattling badly on my 2001 Ram 2500.
I got "lucky" found the correct and un damaged one piece dash support in agate (AZ code) at a local p-n-p yard. An educational learning experience, it took me 5 hours to get it out undamaged, but I learned a lot about taking my dashboard assembly out on my truck.
For those of you crazy enough to do this, buy the LMC unit instead of the "G " unit. The G unit doesn't match the vent pattern like the original and you need to paint it to match if you don't like black and the mine required extensive trimming to properly line up the mounting holes for the top of the dash screws and the "A" pillar on the right side. It might be that my sample was poorly cut, but be warned that they advise you "that some trimming maybe required to fit properly." It took me over 10 hours to replace my dash top and under support, not including the time to replace the heater core, evap core, blend door actuator. If you have the dash and heater a/c box out, replace the heater, ac evap and heater actuator at the same time as it never fails that one of those items will fail shortly after you put the dash back in.
Yeah, it's a monster job. I also did my 2001 and It was slightly different than this 96.
Thanks
What brand is the “G” unit?
@@BryanPAllen GENOS GARAGE.
@@oldguy2082 Thanks for the tip !
Did you drill out the rivets and install new ones?
I sure did.
Do you recommend taking the seats out or leaving them in to get the assembled dash in?
I would probably take the seats out, but it can certainly be done with the seats left in. It's a little easier if you have a helper to hold one end of the dash.
@@Chuck_House_of_Mopar Thanks for the info, I appreciate it
Sure thing.
Blend Door USA makes a kit with aluminum doors last forever only for dodges
Oh, how about that. I had done the blend door repair on my 2001 and bought a kit for this truck but it didn't apply to a 1996.
What is the part number for the whole lower dash??
I doubt that they are available and I don't know the part number. This piece came from another junk truck.
Thanks
Liked and subscribed, how much difference is a 2000?
Thanks Dave, I'm not sure but I would think that they are pretty similar.
@@Chuck_House_of_Mopar thanks for taking the time to make and post this video!
Transmission did you put in that pickup I got three of them
I put an NV3500 5 speed in this truck.
What tools are need to remove the dash core
Pretty much just socket wrenches. It's a good idea to have the adapters to disconnect the AC lines. And bring some WD40 along to spray in the AC disconnects if you're doing this in a junkyard.
@@Chuck_House_of_Mopar can I get the exact sizes