This is a wonderful video. You did a great job. You detail to perfection is excellent. I knew that when you measured to be sure flashing was square. My compliments to you.
Good video, the only thing I disagreed with was putting the 3 nails at the bottom of the vent boot, I would have nailed just the top and out roofing cement on the bottom.
Same I wouldn't have nailed it on he bottom.. Two on each side near the edge on top and another befor the next shingle starts. That way it doesn't show.
Over time if you do that, even with a Perma Boot, the plastic bends up leaving the underside exposed...I have it happening on my roof right now and all cause I didn't nail the bottom down and just roof cemented at the bottom thinking it was better...better to nail and then dab the nails...
Another good video Shannon. Man The only thing that worries me is those pipe boots, turtle vents and Stacks not Dryed In. Say a big Strom comes and rips those 20yr. Shingles off and water get to running. I've always used a full Shingle and centered it on the top cut so u don't have any stagger pieces so close to the top of the pipe boot that's just me. God bless and Keep up the good work .
At 3:00, you DON'T need to put nails exposed, below where a shingle would cover. If you can't get the flashing to lay flat enough to suit you, stick adhesive under the corners, but the entire principle of layering so water cannot find an entry weakness has been compromised the minute you just start driving unsealed nails all the way from the exterior to the inside of the roof; sealing the head does not seal the underlayers.
Hi Shannon... I LOVE your channel. What are your thoughts regarding NOT running a bead along the bottom underside of the flashing? I've always leave a small gap so any water or condensation that MIGHT form has a place to escape.
No issues with how he's installing the flashing, just worried about how hard the nails are puncturing through his shingle, and how close each nail is to the key line?
You don't want to do your tar line like that, and it should be the exact opposite. The U shape should cover the left, top, and right side, with the bottom open so that water can escape.
The tar line should go all the way around the pipe. I have seen where wind driven rain was blown in under the bottom edge of the flashing when installed like you say. I have also seen where hornets will get under the flashing on the bottom edge as well. After hurricane Katrina I was called to a house that had major damage to the living room with no damage to the roof at all. The roofer had installed a vent just as you have said and it was the cause of the internal damage to the house. The ARMA (Asphalt Roofing Manufacturing Association) manual on page 55 just says embedded in a bed of roof cement. It does not say just on three sides like you say.
Ma Ja u r correct but I always apply dabs of tar at the bottom. Because there should never be nails exposed at the bottom. Also I wrap pipe with I&W shield before paper and shingles
@@johnlieb1 Over time if you do that, even with a Perma Boot, the plastic bends up leaving the underside exposed...I have it happening on my roof right now and all cause I didn't nail the bottom down and just roof cemented at the bottom thinking it was better...better to nail and then dab the nails...
glad I watched this video, been many years since I helped my dad do roofs, closing in on 40y.o and had to get a roof replaced on my house, contractor's rep couldn't explain to me why they needed to leave some shingles near the pipe and flashing not completely sealed and *contractor was of course busy with other jobs at that time, kindly pissed me off however, now it makes sense watching your video, thank you from bottom of my heart.🫂
Nailing so close to the lower shingle edge worries me a little even though there's a little strip of tar running across but enjoyed this series all the same!
I was curious, have you worked with metal roofing much and if so is it harder to work with than asphalt shingles. I would really like to see you do a metal roof installation video someday. Thank you for your very informative videos.
You have not seen our famous shed building series? We do a metal roof on that shed,it is small scale but should give you a bit of an idea. ua-cam.com/play/PLh0KqGKtX4oU9z9ok2mtVO6cacPD_Mbw4.html
My roof is nearly thirty years old. Recently we’re having leaked in our kitchen. I’m thinking it’s coming from the vents, because it looks like the guy who roofed the house before I bought it didn’t leave the flashing on the bottom like you’re doing. It’s so frustrating because I even know todo that and I’m not a roofer.
I've seen it done this way a hundred times and it was dry as a bone. I don't know what ur fucking problem is other than being a know fuck all douche....
The horizontal bead under the flashing is surely a mistake! If, for whatever reason, even a bit of water gets onto the shingles under the flashing, the horizontal bead with vertical legs will trap it. A few dots would be better than a continuous bead. And instead of penetrating the flashing where it is exposed, why not put a few generous dots of adhesive under it where nails would be? Just thinking!
If the water has ran down the roof to that point it will likley run into the hole in the roof under all of this before it gets to the tar seal. This tar seal stops water from ice dams and such from flowing back up the roof under the flashing on lower slope roofs. As for the exposed nails , around here the wind would work a tar only installed vent loose and lift it.
If this was new construction, why wouldn't you nail the vent down to the sheeting (plywood) then cover the flange with your tar paper and shingle over all that?
This is all wrong... remember, water runs down and into cracks.... you shouldve installed the flashing/collar while while doing the shingles. So you can have a no caulk and good looking roof.
I would never use a plastic flashing with EPDM collar. That'll last 10 years max. Also never leave the nails exposed just nail the flashing under the shingle where it overlaps the flashing . Finally if thats a new roof why didn't the 8" heater flashing get replaced behind you
On my roof, they caulked over the nails, that they put in the bottom of the flashings. In ALL 3 cases, the caulk cracked and ruined my ceiling in 3 rooms. MOST honest, true professional roofers do NOT put ANY nails in the exposed part of the pipe flashing. And the reason is what I am experiencing. For the same reason you don't nail ANY exposed part of the shingles. If you are concerned about the bottom of the flashing raising up, it is best to put sealing UNDERNEATH the bottom of the pipe flashing. ONLY nail the flashing at the top and side of the flashing. NEVER through the exposed bottom. Caulk over the nails is NOT the answer; for in MOST cases the caulk will crack in a few years. When that happens, water will go down around the shank of the nail and that allows leaks in the ceilings of the home. Best MOTTO: " I will NEVER nail into the bottom of the exposed flashing. AMEN!"
This is a wonderful video. You did a great job. You detail to perfection is excellent. I knew that when you measured to be sure flashing was square. My compliments to you.
Helpful video. Good suggestions from viewers make it better. Thanks to all.
Thank you for all your videos! You help me every time I need it just like this one
for the roof vent. Keep up the good work
Glad to help!
thank you! your shingle videos are helping my husband and i out alot while we do out own roof👍👍
He is not a roofer
U nailed right on a seam
They were driving me crazy 😂 he did it a few times 🤦♂️
The vent flashing is nothing but a shingle. If you get that, you know what to do.
Good video, the only thing I disagreed with was putting the 3 nails at the bottom of the vent boot, I would have nailed just the top and out roofing cement on the bottom.
Same I wouldn't have nailed it on he bottom.. Two on each side near the edge on top and another befor the next shingle starts. That way it doesn't show.
Over time if you do that, even with a Perma Boot, the plastic bends up leaving the underside exposed...I have it happening on my roof right now and all cause I didn't nail the bottom down and just roof cemented at the bottom thinking it was better...better to nail and then dab the nails...
Well done. Clear explanation and demo. Thanks.
Thanks for the clear easy simple explanation and tips.
Another good video Shannon. Man The only thing that worries me is those pipe boots, turtle vents and Stacks not Dryed In. Say a big Strom comes and rips those 20yr. Shingles off and water get to running. I've always used a full Shingle and centered it on the top cut so u don't have any stagger pieces so close to the top of the pipe boot that's just me. God bless and Keep up the good work .
Thanks Thomas
At 3:00, you DON'T need to put nails exposed, below where a shingle would cover. If you can't get the flashing to lay flat enough to suit you, stick adhesive under the corners, but the entire principle of layering so water cannot find an entry weakness has been compromised the minute you just start driving unsealed nails all the way from the exterior to the inside of the roof; sealing the head does not seal the underlayers.
Yes you do. You are so wrong
Hi Shannon... I LOVE your channel. What are your thoughts regarding NOT running a bead along the bottom underside of the flashing? I've always leave a small gap so any water or condensation that MIGHT form has a place to escape.
That would be fine.
very informative! thank you for your video.
No issues with how he's installing the flashing, just worried about how hard the nails are puncturing through his shingle, and how close each nail is to the key line?
You don't want to do your tar line like that, and it should be the exact opposite. The U shape should cover the left, top, and right side, with the bottom open so that water can escape.
The tar line should go all the way around the pipe. I have seen where wind driven rain was blown in under the bottom edge of the flashing when installed like you say. I have also seen where hornets will get under the flashing on the bottom edge as well. After hurricane Katrina I was called to a house that had major damage to the living room with no damage to the roof at all. The roofer had installed a vent just as you have said and it was the cause of the internal damage to the house.
The ARMA (Asphalt Roofing Manufacturing Association) manual on page 55 just says embedded in a bed of roof cement. It does not say just on three sides like you say.
Right
Ma Ja u r correct but I always apply dabs of tar at the bottom. Because there should never be nails exposed at the bottom. Also I wrap pipe with I&W shield before paper and shingles
and he needs to turn the pressure down on the un. Those nails are over driven
@@johnlieb1 Over time if you do that, even with a Perma Boot, the plastic bends up leaving the underside exposed...I have it happening on my roof right now and all cause I didn't nail the bottom down and just roof cemented at the bottom thinking it was better...better to nail and then dab the nails...
glad I watched this video, been many years since I helped my dad do roofs, closing in on 40y.o and had to get a roof replaced on my house, contractor's rep couldn't explain to me why they needed to leave some shingles near the pipe and flashing not completely sealed and *contractor was of course busy with other jobs at that time, kindly pissed me off however, now it makes sense watching your video, thank you from bottom of my heart.🫂
Won’t the cement seal the bottom edge? Do you really need those exposed nails
Wind
Nailing so close to the lower shingle edge worries me a little even though there's a little strip of tar running across but enjoyed this series all the same!
Thanks for watching
Excellent...my job for tomorrow!
I love your Channel. What sealant you use?
Black jack tar
Same instructions apply for a roof vent?
Keep watching, that video will release Sunday May 29/16
I was curious, have you worked with metal roofing much and if so is it harder to work with than asphalt shingles. I would really like to see you do a metal roof installation video someday. Thank you for your very informative videos.
You have not seen our famous shed building series? We do a metal roof on that shed,it is small scale but should give you a bit of an idea. ua-cam.com/play/PLh0KqGKtX4oU9z9ok2mtVO6cacPD_Mbw4.html
Thank you sir, I'll check it out.
A perfect video of what not to do.
Still did better than 90% of roofers out there in the real world.
Thank you.
My roof is nearly thirty years old. Recently we’re having leaked in our kitchen. I’m thinking it’s coming from the vents, because it looks like the guy who roofed the house before I bought it didn’t leave the flashing on the bottom like you’re doing. It’s so frustrating because I even know todo that and I’m not a roofer.
We just had a roof installed and the bottom flange is not visable. Why would this be? It appears they shingled all around it flush.
That method basically directed water under the next lower shingle, not a good thing. You want the water to shed over the next row of shingles.
Very good presentation but the second-to-last should be fully cut chamfered around boot
This is a very thorough video, however it is terribly wrong lol
Thank
You great videos as always
Thank you
many of these flashing say use no tar ,,why is that ?
Because this guy has no clue what he is doing
thank you Sir great job !! subscribed
So glad you are not EVER shingling one of my houses....so much room for improvement!!!!!
I've seen it done this way a hundred times and it was dry as a bone. I don't know what ur fucking problem is other than being a know fuck all douche....
Username checks out lol
Great videos..thanks!
Your welcome
The horizontal bead under the flashing is surely a mistake! If, for whatever reason, even a bit of water gets onto the shingles under the flashing, the horizontal bead with vertical legs will trap it. A few dots would be better than a continuous bead. And instead of penetrating the flashing where it is exposed, why not put a few generous dots of adhesive under it where nails would be? Just thinking!
If the water has ran down the roof to that point it will likley run into the hole in the roof under all of this before it gets to the tar seal. This tar seal stops water from ice dams and such from flowing back up the roof under the flashing on lower slope roofs. As for the exposed nails , around here the wind would work a tar only installed vent loose and lift it.
Nice olfa bud.
Wish you were close to me, I need a repair somewhere near a 10 inch diameter, range hood roof vent 😟
Rubberized on exposd nail not roof cement. Cement goes where it's not exposd to the ⛅.
U R RIGHT ,,tar does not hold up ,,amazing how many people use it,,its GARBAGE ,,Sika const sealant is the best
nice video. greetings from god old germany.
Thanks for watching
If this was new construction, why wouldn't you nail the vent down to the sheeting (plywood) then cover the flange with your tar paper and shingle over all that?
Don't listen to this guy. That Ushaped bead is a disaster. Trapping the water
100% a leak. The shingle you cut in has a 2” step.
This is all wrong... remember, water runs down and into cracks.... you shouldve installed the flashing/collar while while doing the shingles. So you can have a no caulk and good looking roof.
Yer fired.
I would never use a plastic flashing with EPDM collar. That'll last 10 years max. Also never leave the nails exposed just nail the flashing under the shingle where it overlaps the flashing . Finally if thats a new roof why didn't the 8" heater flashing get replaced behind you
On my roof, they caulked over the nails, that they put in the bottom of the flashings. In ALL 3 cases, the caulk cracked and ruined my ceiling in 3 rooms. MOST honest, true professional roofers do NOT put ANY nails in the exposed part of the pipe flashing. And the reason is what I am experiencing. For the same reason you don't nail ANY exposed part of the shingles.
If you are concerned about the bottom of the flashing raising up, it is best to put sealing UNDERNEATH the bottom of the pipe flashing. ONLY nail the flashing at the top and side of the flashing. NEVER through the exposed bottom. Caulk over the nails is NOT the answer; for in MOST cases the caulk will crack in a few years.
When that happens, water will go down around the shank of the nail and that allows leaks in the ceilings of the home. Best MOTTO:
" I will NEVER nail into the bottom of the exposed flashing. AMEN!"
Awesome roofer. Wish you talk faster.
In the video setting increase the playback speed. I find that you can watch my videos even at 2x speed and it is still understandable .
@@HouseImprovements ok thanks.
deff not a roofer
Thank you