How to drain sump pump water away from the house.
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 тра 2017
- Many homes have a drain line from their sump pump which spills out on top of the soil next to the house. This makes for a soggy area and can erode the soil. A better method is to dig a trench and bury the line to carry water away from the home to a desired location. Always call "Julie" or the appropriate authority in your area to identify utility lines under the ground so that you can avoid digging near them.
Keep in mind that this is not meant to be a "professional" installation. It cost under $100 and its way better than running a hose on top of the grass as many people do. This has survived 3 winters and no freezing yet.
Alley Picked Merchandise available at:
simpletoncreation.com/collect...
Thanks for replying stay safe
I use smooth 4" outer pipe and a little rock salt in the top end of 4". Never a problem.
I live in Massachusetts. I have a 3" drain pipe from the dishcharge and it goes 25 feet away. About 6" deep. They installer said it won't freeze and it hasn't. Its been 8 years. I need to extend it another 80 feet though. My yard doesn't drain well in the Spring. I'm using 3" schedule 40 pipe with cement connections. probably about 10 or 12 inches deep. Basically the length of the shovel. It should do fine.
Caulk around PVC ? I think using PVC primer and PVC cement seems better.
I need to do this!
In Iowa until recently my sump discharge tube ran solid from the basement to the ground 20 yards away from my house. Two winters ago, we had heavy rain in December which caused the sump pump to be active for about a week. During that time, the temperature went to zero (0) degrees nightly for three days. The discharge never froze inside the tube or near its exit. The water coming inside the house and leaving was warm enough keep the discharge from freezing.
Jim Bohnenkamp yeah same with one of our rental properties we have the sump pump runs so much during the winter that there is a green patch of lawn Out front of the house during the winter the rest of the area is white with snow! 😝😆
just bought a house in desmoines you should come help me dig :)
Don't worry, i have a pipe running out dumping into 100 feet long, no holes, black ribbed pipe and we get minus 45+ like last year, never ever froze one bit. As long as your pump runs often, i figure, since it pumps about every 6 to 10 minutes, there is enough warm flow to avoid this. One last thing I'd suggest is not to separate your pipe like above, i run my shorter pipe 3 feet down inside bigger pipe and all my100 feet pipe is on a 20% downhill angle above ground with no problem year round, even under ice snow. So no worries, hope I've helped some :)
My neighbor just did this. I have my discharge line running down hill of course, unfortunately for him, it runs into his yard lol.
His pump comes out facing me, so it's a battle of the pumps.
He put in 4 inch drain pipe, solid.
His goes from 1.5 to a 4inch freeze protector, "right at house, coming out straight down, has slots incase the line below freezes. I think it should work.
Now me, I kept my 1.5 just that... it is buried under deck, I didn't feel like messin with it. So it goes down back of house, and I put a 1.5 ta 4inch adapter, "y" into his 4inch.
Works great but my line will freeze, it does every year for the 2 months of cold weather. So I already leave it unglued at outside discharge, and cap the buried one, than pull out my winter, "short" piece lol. No freezing. For sure.
Back to spring, reattach the drainage system. It sucks, but until if dig up my 1.5 inch, a 1.5 ta 4inch freeze protector, back to 1.5 wouldn't work well.
i did that to day and it worked re
Did he poke holes on the entire length of the tube?
REAL COOL
Can we get some links to parts though.
I have the same problem at my home. Can you please share the name of the materials used on this project?
French drain Man so call NDS inferior 4" corrugated PVC works fine to me? But, I don't agree with cutting slits in the PVC pipe & elbow should be solid no holes. If it's pitch right all the water should exit.
Since you were going to poke holes in the pipe, would you recommend using corrugated pipe?
If you use corrugated pipe, the ground along the pipe will tend to be wet...I would let the water all exit at the end but then it depends on your circumstances.
Good option if don’t charge you for sewer drain
Depth looks shallow. Must be a warm climate. Here in Michigan we need 18 inches to get below freeze line
Chicago Area. Installed that a few years ago for a friend and it still works great -- never froze.
how does the space prevent freezing
When I used to have an exit hose attached, it would freeze in the winter and burn out my pump. By having the space, it becomes almost impossible for the line to freeze. The water underground drains out. If the underground line did freeze, the water would simple spill out on the ground because of the space.
Silicone and gorilla tape, now I've seen it all.........
right they make pvc pipe glue and its probably the same price
It would be nice to know where the installation is located. It seems to me that the 1 1/4" discharge pipe is going to freeze in many areas of the US.
The installation is in Illinois. Winters can be very cold. The pipe exiting the house is on a slope and should not freeze because there isn't any water in that section of the pipe.
Using a pop up you will have water at the base of the pipe near the popup emitter that could freeze. Why not cut a hole in the curb and discharge to the street keeping the pipe empty? I saw this thing called an ice dam that you can put into the discharge line as it exits the house. It has 6 to 8 openings in the pipe before it hits a larger pipe going to the discharge point. If the larger discharge line freezes the water exits the pipe near the house turning into ice of course but does not block the line.and the pump keeps working. I thought your hardware cloth solution was pretty cool but an ice dam is better. Good use of of ties too. I saw the use of this ice dam in a plumber's video on youtube. The plumber was from Buffalo NY I think.
@@GeorgeMinton-jb8ky because cutting a hole on the curb is illegal in most cities. I've seen some who will let you cut into the storm pipe or inlet, with a permit, but never cut the curb.
@@AlleyPicked I am in Roselle Illinois and need this done badly - would you help me do this? I don’t know where in Illinois you are or would be willing?
... And why didn't you tie in the gutter downspout into this nice line?
What’s the follow up story on this did it ever freeze? And does the pop up actually
Pop up or does the water just sit in the pipe? I know the cost is substantially less using this black tubing but what if you did same thing with say PVC? Pros and cons?
I believe that this has survived for 2 winters now. It has never froze over. I get alot of "smarter" people comment how horrible this is, but it has help up just fine. It's not how a professional company would do it but then my whole point was to show a cheap and simple way to accomplish a better solution than just a hose laying on top of the grass. The pop up emitter works just fine. I'm sure a small amount of water remains inside the tube. As long as there is a flow of water through it regularly, it shouldn't freeze.
@@AlleyPicked man, thanks for this. Screw those people lol
I'm doing it pvc also I'm not sure if I'm the only one doing it this way or not.
Do you worry about the drain pipe freezing ?
no
Wow, oldschool Alley Picked, pre-logo
PVC it straight through instead of corrugated drain ?
Wow just wow! So many things done incorrectly
815Angling
Tell us all the things that are wrong, educate us
Aaaaaaaand CRICKET'S. still no reply from the person. Thanks for nothing!?
For one thing ,you never use silicone to join pvc pipe fitting. And using a thin bladed knife to make some tiny slits by the road is not gonna last long. Will slog quickly. I also agree that you should have put the 90 degree at the house immediately on exit of house. Then put the 4 inch close to the house as well. Should have put pop up at curb flush to the ground so you could run mower over it. When that water freezes on the side walk and someone falls your in trouble. That's just a few quick things. @@fixit4182
@@robertgregory2618 recommends busting up a perfectly good section of sidewalk to extend the trench to the right of way between the sidewalk and the curb. At minimum, doing the job above board would require both a permit and probably a right of way easement. Both combined could easily cost $300. Not to memtion the cost to rebuild the sidewalk. In many jurisdictions, sidewalks are quasi- public property and private homeowners are not allowed to disturb same. Permitting and easement requests draw the attention of municipal building codes inspectors.
Picture this: Apply for the permit and it's denied. The building inspector decides to have a look at your lawn a few days later because she just happens to be in the neighborhood and is driving by. She notices the new pop-up adjacent to the sidewalk and determines it to be a danger to pedestrians and orders the homeowner to "abate the system by redirecting discharge away from sidewalk within 30 days.”
Now you are back to having the sump discharge onto your lawn.
Keep the terminal end of the discharge pipe on the house side of the sidewalk. If someone slips and injures themselves they can contact your insurance company. That's what homeowner's insurance is for.
I called the local codes office once 20 years ago with a general question about building a pond in my yard. First thing they wanted was my address. They told me a permit was required for any excavation work associated with the job. I opted not to do the job. One week later my dog was barking wildly. I looked outside to see the Inspector peering through my chain link fence looking into my yard!
i'm going to assume your in a warm weather climate. I had a neighbor do something like this. It froze in winter. Now he just has a black hose on it. He pulls it out when it rains and puts it over the storm drain in the road.
It's been 4 years in Illinois. No freezes yet. The pipe never gets completely packed with water. This was also done in a 2nd location and no issues there as well.
would this system work well during the winter also? would it freeze up?
Yes, it will freeze. The pipe is corregated, not buried very deep, and the exit is above the pipe elbow. So water is going to collect in the corregations and at the elbow, where it is going to freeze. With the elbow next to the house, it is pointed down. It will be difficult to connect another flex pipe to evacuate the water.
You really want to use a solid pipe the flows at a minimum of 5 degrees. It would be good if there is a drop-off at end of pipe to prevent freezing. Or bury a dry well deep in the ground, below frost level.
@@donvnielsen just want to say THANK YOU for all those spot-on and crucial observations! major kudos, you're 100% correct and it's embrassing all the shortcomings of this video you've pointed out too!
i'm trying to understand - this would only be an issue if the pipe is frozen while the ground is so saturated that the pump will need to run right? that sounds like an uncommon thing, but maybe i'm wrong, please help
DIYers always create business for the trained!
I seem to get some criticism for this video but nobody ever says why? While I am not a plumber, this simple method has been working fine for over a year. It's cheap and beats leaving a hose running on top of the grass.
Number one, never use silicone and duct tape only primer and glue. Number two might be more preference, but use solid 4” pipe not that black pipe. Also google ice guard fittings, just looks cleaner than the screen and zip ties. Kudos for leaving space for frozen pipe, I’ve seen bad backups because of connected outlets.
Two sentences of advice and DIYers are now as good as "trained" people charging 500 bucks for this job!
I really don't understand how a spacing between the pipes and then having a meshed screen over it will be better then a direct connection. Won't the mesh screen build up small ice droplets and in time clog the entire entrance area during winters? There are ways to have a direct connection without the freezing problem.
I think the idea is when the sump is active and it is below freezing outside, and the shallow underground pipe freezes up, or the screened entrance tube freezes, at least the water coming from the sump pipe can still exit, so the water still leaves the house. Otherwise the sump pump would just keep running, but with a frozen outside line, the water would remain in the sump.
The air gap is there so that if the underground pipe gets blocked up, the water still has somewhere to go that isn’t in your basement
Would it be better to have a plumber do this job or a landscaper??
Depends how handy you are. If you are unsure or uncomfortable or feel unsafe in any way, then by all means, hire a professional. But be careful, there are a lot of scammers out there.
Thank you for your response, but what I would like to know who would be the most qualified individual to conduct this job. (Plumber or Landscaper or another profession) I'm looking to have this done on my property ASAP.
Plumber
angelr728 it makes no difference if they are a plumber or landscaper. Pick someone with experience and check the company for online reviews, plus yrs in business. Having a title doesn’t make one better at a task than another...its experience and trust you should look for!
This isn't downspout or other drainage, you want a plumber for your sump pump drainage.
Isnt the pipe very shallow in the ground?
Yes, but keep in mind that often people will run the drain pipe above the ground. The pipe is large and never completely fills with water. This installation has been in use for 3 winters and has never frozen over.
@@AlleyPicked was not thinking of the frost but rather if there is sufficient soil for the grass to grow
@@DinakarJayarajan Yes there is plenty.
That’s gonna crush eventually and backup
It's been almost 3 years. Still works great. Even if it did crush, which it wont, it's not very deep, it won't backup as there is a disconnect from where id comes outside the house.
Thank you for this video. And please ignore all the douchebags
Does this drain to the sewer or on other properties?
Drains on their own property.
@@AlleyPicked Just curious, I have a neighbor draining his sump pump 10' parallel to my well pump. Is this legal?
I am not sure but I assume if he is draining on his own property it would be legal.
Did you rent a trencher?
No. Used a shovel.
You might as well as had that downspout go into that tube.
That was my first thought...
I see a handful of things wrong with this install. Don't know the whole picture but, these jobs have much more material cost and even more labor hours to complete proper system start to finish.
Would you mind telling me how deep I need to bury pipe. I live in Massachusetts (cold winters). Draining only is needed in early spring when snow is melting. I know I have to have a constant decline under the ground, but any other help would be great
Hi, thanks for watching my video. I am not a plumber and do not know if there are any official codes in your area, but I have done this twice in Illinois where we also have cold winters. I did not dig below the freezing line in the ground. I didn't think that was necessary. I think if you dig 12-18 inches, that should be fine. I've been through one winter and mine has worked fine. I also connected a dry well to the first one I did.
This is two years ago not sure if anyone see but we are getting too much water at end does anyone have ideas?
Alley Picked Hey know 2 years ago we are getting two much water at end do you have any ideas?
Where’s the water coming from
Basement Sump Pump
When you discharge the water onto the sidewalk and it freezes and someone slips on the ice ....Who is responsible
?
I would like to know the answer to that also, any lawyer's have the 411 ?
@@mischievoustoo if your drainage spills onto public easement, you will very likely be found negligent. My neighbors had a claim against their insurance 2 years ago. Almost lost their homeowner's insurance.
I prefer apple drain for proper product placement. That zip tie screen and duct tape is cheap.
Thanks for your comments. That is kind of the point to the video. Cheap solution. You can improve it any way you like. Just a bare bones solution...better than a hose running across the top of the grass.
Why did you leave the pipe so long from the pump? Seems to me having the drain line come up right against the house would’ve been much smarter. You would’ve been able to cut the discharge pipe much closer to the house lessening the chance of freezing and less chance some landscaper is gonna break it off. Right?
Also, if there’s such a flooding issue on that side of property why did you leave that ridiculously log downspout extender attached? For just a few bucks more you could’ve tied that downspout into that drain line. SMH!!
Often times the foundation/footing of the house will extend out some distance from the foundation "wall" 12-24 inches below grade. If you want to get the drain pipe snug up to the wall for a neater look, you'd need to cut into that footing with a concrete saw. Doing it like this looks worse, but is easier, faster, and cheaper to do.
Why not use perforated corrugated pipe?
That's another option. I was just trying to do it inexpensively and a better option than running it above ground.
I’m afraid I will have to come up with a solution for my parents house. My father who is suffering with dementia is convinced his house was built ten years ago when in fact it was 1962. Anyway, he keeps fiddling with the sump pump and burning out motors by propping up the float switch because he doesn’t trust them.
@@rogertrujillo7423 there are pumps that use a pressure switch instead of a float. Maybe that would help?
@@AlleyPicked thanks, I’ll check it out
You didn’t show the water being discharged at the Pop-up!?!
Yeah this drove me nuts. Why would you not show the whole system working.
That's NEVER going to pop up unless the pipe beyond it gets blocked. Should never happen.
?
@@ThoseLittleVoicesSEVRUN maybe it doesn't work
pop up emitter? they are just for looks.. just end cap it.. ain't no way water from any sump is going to push up the emitter to exit.. has to be on a good hilly slope.. the lawn mower will cut it off when it goes over it due to vacuum of air pulling it up and then cuts it.. just bury the end in some gravel after capping it.. use perf pipe after 10' --14' away from the house..
WRONG! I dead ended my sump pump drain with a pop up emitter and it has worked perfectly and keeps the trees watered in the summer.
It's illegal to dump water to the street or side walks 🤣 If a neighbor gets tired of walking on water or whoever falls because of it get ready for a big fat lawsuit. Check your local town department for codes.
lol ok thanks karen. can they sue god because of the rain
Might be ok if you live someplace where it never shows or freezes.
Not true.I live in the midwest where we have very cold winters. This has been in place through 2 winters and it works fine. as long as it's on a slant and the water drains out, there are no issues.
i don't understand why people keep saying this. if it's freezing then why would you need the sump pump.
Why didn’t you tie in the gutter and get the water away from the house to?
I was wondering the same thing. That's what I did. It's right there next to the drain.
These videos. 90 per cent makes sense. Then you see gorilla tape.
Reading the comments I agree that there is a lot "wrong" with your installation of this drain, but you did an ok job for the fact that it looks like there was little to no grade in your yard.
If you do end up circling back to remedy any issues from this in the future, consider the following:
1. Replace the mesh setup with a freeze relief sump pump discharge device for $20 on Amazon.
2. Dig your trench 12-24 inches deeper depending on your winter's.
3. Use a 4 inch white perforated PVC drain pipe (not the black pipe encased in white PVC pipe), on top of 3-4 inches of #1 gravel, install a clean out every 12-15 feet and fill in the rest of the trench using #1 gravel.
4. Since you don't have the grade in your yard to both go deep and away from you house to discharge onto the street or even on to the lawn, dig a 4' x 4' hole out by the street or in the middle of your yard away from your house, and fill it with gravel, or install a drainage barrel to discharge into.
5. Do not connect your sump pump or downspouts to your storm sewer line under the street. More & more municipalities encourage residents to discharge downspouts and sump pumps onto your lawn to relief the usage of the storm sewers lines. Most large towns and cities have outgrown this sewer lines and have a high risk of backing up into people's basements, and the sump pump is simply discharging into the lines that are already backing up into your basement.
Thank you for the thoughtful , well stated, good ideas.
Great instruction, *Brian Connolly! Thanks so much for sharing! I thought of trying the drainage barrel setup but felt that because my soil is SO clay-heavy, the underground absorption would be way too slow, filling up the and barrel (even with the holes in it) then as a result, the water would fill up the hole and spill out the top of the overflow cap on top of the barrel causing the area where it's placed to become a flooded mess! (Woosh! Talk about a run-on sentence! Lol).
I pump
How deep did you dig?
12-18 inches. You don't need to dig below the frost line. Just be sure keep it on a slant away from the house.
@@AlleyPicked here's what I don't understand about that: doesn't water pool (and freeze) in that corrrogated piping??? if it was smooth PVC piping, the water would ALL flow downhill, every drop of it, but the black piping YOU guys used has these ridges and uneven divets in the surface, where a ton of water can remain afterwards, right? doesn't that freeze in the winter, and shatter the piping material?
Think about this...most people put a smaller corrugated pipe above the ground and let it drain out onto the lawn and it doesnt freeze. This is because of the slope. The water exits the house and completely drains through the pipe. The depth to dig does not need to go below the frost line since only a small amount of water remains in the pipe. I have had "professional" people criticize this method but I have used it on 2 different homes and it has been functional for over 3 COLD winters. Thanks for watching!
Not a bad job, if only to buy some time to address the source of the water problem. Start by extending discharge of rainwater further away from your downspouts.
I had a wet basement until I spent a couple hundred on gutters and directed the rainwater just a few yards away from the foundation, onto ground sloping away from the foundation.
Celler is as dry as a bone most days.
When you mention wet basement. was it just moist spots on your concrete floor? im having the same issue and im debating doing what youve done, plus an interior weeping tile system, or just doing what youve done and call it good.
silicone...really?!?!
You guys don’t do this for a living right!!!!
Not at all -- But the cheap hack has been working for a year :-)
this is a joke because just in pipe at home depot is $65 the duck tape is like $3 and the pop up admitter is around $7 or $8 and so on. and btw alot of what he did was not done right i could go on for a while about it.
elaborate?
Joav Bee, everyone on Facebook is a pro at doing stuff
Go on for a while about it, dude. What's the point of SAYING you could and not doing it?
Yeah why wouldn't you tell everyone what he did wrong if you know so much? Give the right advice so no one else makes tge same mistakes. Guy must not know anything and was just trying to sound smart smh
@@nickcaravello2061 hes suggestion must be to bring in a bobcat and dig 15 feet below so it never freezes. lol
Should have tied that gutter into that plastic pipe and I would have took that plastic pipe past the sidewalk toward the street
Looks like crap hack fix never use silicone break down every couple of years
what is better
um, how could you NOT mention the issue of how deep to bury the pipe so that it doesn't freeze? do you just assume that 100% of the people watching your video will be in Florida or CA like you, where it's summer all year-round? if I followed this video here in Michigan it would be an unmitigated DISASTER! plus you never brought up another important issue like make sure the outtake pipe slopes downward enough so that the water doesn't pool (or even worse....flow backwards!) like shouldn't there be a 1% or 2% "grade" where the pipe is slanted enough so the water flows downhill poperly? gosh....so many things wrong with this video :( good try though, some stuff was impressive, like the screnning on the big pipe near the end, that was kinda cool!
Thanks for your feedback. This was installed in a Chicago suburb where most people just have a smaller corrugated hose sitting on top of their lawn. So the depth isn't as important as you might think as long as the water drains out. Although the lawn slope is pretty clear in the video, I should have mentioned it. I have done this twice in a cold climate and it been working great for 3 winters now. No freezing! And this year, the temps hit 30 below, so there's that :-) It may not be what a plumber would do but hey, for $70, I think it works pretty good.
Hello my name is Danny shah I’m a disabled veteran and I need you guys to come fix my drainage system in my backyard if you guys do it please shoot me an email and let me know if you guys do a private work
Hi Danny. Thank you for your service to America! Unfortunately, I am not in the plumbing/drainage business. In this video, I was just helping out a friend. In what state do you live?
I live in Tampa Florida
And really need some one to help me out
I am no where near there. Sounds like you will need to call someone in your area.
In Northern climate this technique will fail! Water will freeze bubble lawn then geyser every time the pump turns on in the winter.. I have had to fix this issue multiple times! Do not repeat this technique in northern climate please!! Thank you for getting me more work but I’m tired of fixing it now stop teaching this technique or mention it will fail in winter climate
This has made it through 4 cold Chicago winters/2 locations. No problems at all.
Don’t get me wrong your job looks good mate! by logic it should work but in more northern climates where land freezes a couple feet it will fail. Plus this is depending on the situation..
issue I’m fixing now for client is the metal grate froze and made ice shield reflecting water back towards the house and over working sump, so the homeowner then used DUCT TAPE to close entrance at the house to see the bottle neck exit failed at the road, backing water up ribbed pipe freezing it all.. this is funny because that’s when the geysers started every time the sump turned on!! Lol haha that’s when I got the call! I have to sink the pipe more and send it towards the property swales with no fancy drain exit.. I came across your video because I’m debating 3” plumber pipe or weeping pipe for the longer distance run and the DUCT TAPE work made me think of this job and have to say something... Lol
All I needed to see was this guy using silicone to join pvc.... smh do not follow this video
your comment made me literally LOL - I'm sitting here snorting and cackling so much I started hiccuping! ack! lol
And electrical tape... And tiewraps on the screen!
Silicone caulking and duct tape!
They make adapters for PVC to corrugated connections dummy.
Yes uses silicone and duct tape to put on the PVC fitting at the end but then uses PVC cleaner and cement to put on the elbow that drains into the corrugated pipe.
BTW there is a product called "Ice Guard" sold by Basement Systems that will deal with the freezing but they want to sell the installation to you. However there is a similar product called "Freeze Drain" on Amazon that I plan on installing this year as part of our backyard renovation.
This method works but I would have used better solution than silicone and duct tape in the ground.
Why don't you make a video that shows us how to do it your way dummy!