I bought a Painless kit for our 40 Ford. Most of the wires had corrosion under the insulation in from the unterminated ends up to 18 inches. The terminated ends at the fuse/distribution block were corroded under the insulation up to 6 inches. I called the customer service and I was told it was my fault because I did not store the kit properly. I bought the PP kit and installed it within a month. I will never use that crap again. We are going with American Autowire on the next two trucks. I will be cutting the Painless system out and replacing it with American Autowire. The AA system is highly recommended here. . Thanks for the video.
One way if you really want to splice stuff instead of buying a new kit is to go to a pick a part type yard and you can buy a harness for under $20. All sorts of colors in it. And different gauges. I've done it, not sure how many feet just in a newer engine harness from a van, but hundreds for sure. Granted, not all of it may be what you want to use, but I enjoy the hunt. But this most recent project I wimped out and bought a universal Painless kit. I wanted a fuse box, and the full kit on sale was just a little more than the fuse box alone. I will be modifying it, as I will be moving the fuse box location drastically among other things. I am too fat and too stiff anymore to be crawling under a dash to change a fuse. Unlike most people, I enjoy wiring. It's relaxing for me. I'm an electronic tech with lots of experience soldering. I really prefer not to use any sort of crimp on connector unless I can also solder it. Looking forward to your other electrical videos.
Solid point if someone is willing to invest the time. I'd definitely say you have to get selective as to watch out for corroded harnesses but that's easy enough. I've been known to hold onto old engine harnesses from LS engines and similar so that I have extra factory connectors, wire lengths and colors. I once had to repair an engine harness on a C5 Corvette that mice chewed through. I was able to splice all the damaged wires with exactly the right color and gauge of wire while in place on the car. I never could have if I didn't have a couple full harnesses on hand. 👍👍👍
Ive been wiring race cars for a long time and have rewired many a customer hack job where they used these scotch lock splices and ended up with a smoldering heap of copper and ash. On a personal note I stay away from the kits mainly because they just don't have enough relays and for street cars rely on thermal flashers etc. (I like everything to be modern.) But for the average Joe the kit is the best way to go as it takes out 99% of the guess work while providing a real functional solution.
Using the AWW 500560 kit for my ‘66 c10. Hands down best $450 I have ever spent. It’s kinda pricey, but everything is labeled out, new switches on the dash, and do it right once, and you’ll never have to do it again. AAW is the best of the best.
Are you good/great or what!, Superb teaching and visual aids, Wish you taught back during the 50’s, You truelly helped this old man,, Thank you,' I,m now subscribed, I,m trying to wire my 93 Club car golf cart,
Bob Smith 👍👍 glad to hear it. I've never had an issue with an American Autowire kit. I've changed things about them here and there but overall for the price (generally lower than PP) I have always been pleased.
Great information in all your videos and great choice in wire harness you just left out one thing Painless Wiring harness is a pain in the ass!!!!!! If you know, you know.
@@antipasinchrist Lol. You sound like an incredibly thoughtful, empathetic, enlightened individual. I can see we're going to be alright. Hahaha. I don't always get a chance to witness such a great example of critical thinking and analysis in action. Well done!
This is a great intro. Thank you. It seems like some applications are well supported. For instance, if you want to swap an LS engine into a '69 Chevelle, then pre-made harness options abound which makes the swap plug-and-play easy. If instead, you want to swap, say, a K20 into an '89 Accord, there is zero support and you have to build your own harness from scratch. That yields tons and tons of questions. Do you buy a pre-built harness and modify? Build your own from bare wire and molex connectors? If you modify, how do you choose the best pre-built haness for your situation? How do you decide how long your harnesses need to be to reach everything without splicing on additional wire? How do you choose the best connectors? How do you install those connectors so they look professional, don't corrode, come loose, etc? What's the best way to mount harnesses in the car? What's the best way to twist and wrap a loom? I've seen some guys use big plywood templates and others use two men braiding wire and no template. How do you keep track of all the existing wires you're keeping so you don't mix them up when you start cutting stuff out? How do you transition from any existing connectors you're keeping to the new connectors you're installing? And so on....
I havnt done a lot of wiring but when I do, I solder then use heat shrink. Then I use Tessa tape and wrap it around the heat shrink. But I mostly just repair wires and not tap into anything
Sorry you feel that way. I think the tip of not being afraid to start over was a solid one as it is often what we do when building cars. Personally I really dislike fully tips and tricks that list off a dozen tips in a 5 minute video but don't give solid background on their topics. A tip without the Why means nothing to me.
I bought a Painless kit for our 40 Ford. Most of the wires had corrosion under the insulation in from the unterminated ends up to 18 inches. The terminated ends at the fuse/distribution block were corroded under the insulation up to 6 inches. I called the customer service and I was told it was my fault because I did not store the kit properly. I bought the PP kit and installed it within a month. I will never use that crap again. We are going with American Autowire on the next two trucks. I will be cutting the Painless system out and replacing it with American Autowire. The AA system is highly recommended here. . Thanks for the video.
I’m finishing up a Painless wiring kit and can’t wait to start the American Wire kit it looks so much easier.
X2 on the American auto wire. One of the best kits I've used. I've put in 3 of their kits this year. Top quality, very complete, good instructions.
I use their products all the time. I'm putting a harness in a 55 Chevy at my Day job this week in fact.
One way if you really want to splice stuff instead of buying a new kit is to go to a pick a part type yard and you can buy a harness for under $20. All sorts of colors in it. And different gauges. I've done it, not sure how many feet just in a newer engine harness from a van, but hundreds for sure. Granted, not all of it may be what you want to use, but I enjoy the hunt.
But this most recent project I wimped out and bought a universal Painless kit. I wanted a fuse box, and the full kit on sale was just a little more than the fuse box alone. I will be modifying it, as I will be moving the fuse box location drastically among other things. I am too fat and too stiff anymore to be crawling under a dash to change a fuse.
Unlike most people, I enjoy wiring. It's relaxing for me. I'm an electronic tech with lots of experience soldering. I really prefer not to use any sort of crimp on connector unless I can also solder it.
Looking forward to your other electrical videos.
Solid point if someone is willing to invest the time. I'd definitely say you have to get selective as to watch out for corroded harnesses but that's easy enough.
I've been known to hold onto old engine harnesses from LS engines and similar so that I have extra factory connectors, wire lengths and colors. I once had to repair an engine harness on a C5 Corvette that mice chewed through. I was able to splice all the damaged wires with exactly the right color and gauge of wire while in place on the car. I never could have if I didn't have a couple full harnesses on hand.
👍👍👍
Ive been wiring race cars for a long time and have rewired many a customer hack job where they used these scotch lock splices and ended up with a smoldering heap of copper and ash. On a personal note I stay away from the kits mainly because they just don't have enough relays and for street cars rely on thermal flashers etc. (I like everything to be modern.) But for the average Joe the kit is the best way to go as it takes out 99% of the guess work while providing a real functional solution.
Using the AWW 500560 kit for my ‘66 c10. Hands down best $450 I have ever spent. It’s kinda pricey, but everything is labeled out, new switches on the dash, and do it right once, and you’ll never have to do it again. AAW is the best of the best.
Great idea man. Excited to see the next installment.
Are you good/great or what!, Superb teaching and visual aids, Wish you taught back during the 50’s, You truelly helped this old man,, Thank you,' I,m now subscribed, I,m trying to wire my 93 Club car golf cart,
Thank you very much!
Good stuff sir!!
based on your preference for American Autowire, I just ordered a Highway 22. Thanks
Bob Smith 👍👍 glad to hear it. I've never had an issue with an American Autowire kit. I've changed things about them here and there but overall for the price (generally lower than PP) I have always been pleased.
Great information in all your videos and great choice in wire harness you just left out one thing Painless Wiring harness is a pain in the ass!!!!!! If you know, you know.
Great video, good information. Respect for the vegan t-shirt, my man!
I'm going to eat a juicy steak.
@@antipasinchrist Lol. You sound like an incredibly thoughtful, empathetic, enlightened individual. I can see we're going to be alright. Hahaha.
I don't always get a chance to witness such a great example of critical thinking and analysis in action. Well done!
Great video! Respect for the vegan t-shirt man! :)
Do you have any subjects you'd like to see covered on Automotive Electrical Systems?
This is a great intro. Thank you.
It seems like some applications are well supported. For instance, if you want to swap an LS engine into a '69 Chevelle, then pre-made harness options abound which makes the swap plug-and-play easy. If instead, you want to swap, say, a K20 into an '89 Accord, there is zero support and you have to build your own harness from scratch. That yields tons and tons of questions. Do you buy a pre-built harness and modify? Build your own from bare wire and molex connectors? If you modify, how do you choose the best pre-built haness for your situation? How do you decide how long your harnesses need to be to reach everything without splicing on additional wire? How do you choose the best connectors? How do you install those connectors so they look professional, don't corrode, come loose, etc? What's the best way to mount harnesses in the car? What's the best way to twist and wrap a loom? I've seen some guys use big plywood templates and others use two men braiding wire and no template. How do you keep track of all the existing wires you're keeping so you don't mix them up when you start cutting stuff out? How do you transition from any existing connectors you're keeping to the new connectors you're installing?
And so on....
@@drsnooz8112 did you figure it out?
I havnt done a lot of wiring but when I do, I solder then use heat shrink. Then I use Tessa tape and wrap it around the heat shrink. But I mostly just repair wires and not tap into anything
any idea how to get get 2 way switch on, on = off configuration?
nice shirt \m/
Thank you!
nice vid do it right or don't do it at all
Those scotchlocks are horrible
10min video and the only tip was not to use a certain connector. Nicessssssssss👎
Sorry you feel that way. I think the tip of not being afraid to start over was a solid one as it is often what we do when building cars. Personally I really dislike fully tips and tricks that list off a dozen tips in a 5 minute video but don't give solid background on their topics. A tip without the Why means nothing to me.
Do something besides talk
How does one teach without talking? This isn’t a hands on video, it is a complex topic. Want hands on content? Check out some of my other videos.
If you don't get why the talking is necessary, you might be better off watching some daytime soaps.