We used urethane 2k high build primer A paint of my sons 55 Chevy truck & 68 mustang coupe ! BOTH turned out amazing ! For the money u can't beat it ! The 55 about 7 yrs ago , 68 about15 yrs ! Still look great ! 👍🏻
This video and the video of applying the epoxy on Jade will come in handy in the future. The Jade video playlist has been a tremendous help for me. Those videos basically saved my Mustang from me giving up on my badly rusted '67.
As a shop owner. I never seen windex used for panel prep in 40 years of painting. I might have to try it on a practice panel. Great job on the rest of the work.
@@Roboticgladiator all cleaners have water, even Prepsol etc... its the products that are oil/petroleum based that would cause issues.. that small amount of absorbed water from windex will not hurt..will evaporate in minutes... only thing with windex is it still leaves a tiny amount of residue behind,, but is easily wiped away with tack cloth
Great Video! I really enjoyed the Time Lapse on the prep work. I can appreciate all of the work that goes into getting the car ready for Hy Build. Thanks
Always nice to see forward progress. Still working on rewiring my 67 that you featured in your viewer project video. Going slowly because work keeps getting in the way. That and a bad back. Keep the videos coming. They help the rest of us keep going on our projects.
great videos... Im currently buying all the equipment to repaint my ford focus :) currently got an air compressor and DevillBiss spray gun :) your videos really helped..
Don't mix and match products unless the substrate requires sanding. The reason is that incompatible reducer (solvents) may cause wrinkling...or shear after a few months.
Good music! When you wipe it down with Windex what do you use for a rag? I have heard those charts talked about, thanks for pointing out one in real life and what is important on them.
Excellent tutorial! Will be getting a classic Mercedes repainted this summer. After body work is done (very little) the car will be sanded, primed, sealed and done in Cypress Green Metallic base coat clear coat. I will continue to be guided by your videos!
LOOKING LIKE A GOOD JOB. WE PUT ALL THIS STUFF ON JUST TO SAND A LOT OF IT OFF BUT THAT'S HOW IT'S DONE GOOD PROGRESS LOOKING FORWARD TO THE NEXT SEGMENT
Nice work Barry. I am at the same stage in my build. Just when I think I'm ready to apply the high build, my OCD kicks in and I end up redoing areas I'm not quite happy with. For some reason, I am obsessed with both sides having the exact same shapes and contours. I challenged a buddy of mine to find the things I was not happy with, and he was stumped. Maybe I am being too picky. It will be painted gloss black, so better safe than sorry later on I guess. Looking forward to more on this build, especially the blocking and sanding all the nooks and crannies.
im using AD Advantage 325 2 K high build primer the data sheet said not to excide 24hr before top coating or i would have to sand it With that said what about shrinkage 24 hr or less is that enough time
Barry...Awesome as usual !! I have a question for you sir. I have a new project = 1970 Mustang Coupe. Unlike my prior project, this one will need both quarters replaced (half way up ) because the bottoms and around the wheel wells are rusted. What would you say your best videos are on how to REMOVE the quarters partially (most interested in how you remove the quarter from the outer wheel hub) ...Thank you !!
Good question. I can't say I've done a partial. Look at the Mystique videos. I sectioned in an outer wheel house on the driver's side. I did a full quarter though.
Hello good morning! Could you tell me please what video(s) you talk about epoxy vs eurathane primers? I am totally confused about all this new stuff - coming from the era of only lacquer primer and only lacquer and acrylic enamel paints. Some questions I have (observations I've made) about videos I've seen are.. l have just cleaned, decreased and sanded down to bare metal the engine compartment of a 69 mustang. It seems that I need to coat that initially with epoxy primer? Then after sanding / preparing, recoat with eurathane / 2k / high build primer (all the same?) before painting? Could I not use eurathane primer on bare metal? Also..I came from the old school of thinking that all filler needed to be put onto freshly ground metal...this new "filler over the top of primer" is messing with me. What type of primer are folks putting filler over the top of? So my question boils down to what are the differences between epoxy and eurathane primers, and when and where to use each, and does fillers and seam sealer go under them or over them? Please? And thank you! I hope to hear back soon, at your convenience of course. Again, thank you!
Well, I typically try to go to bare metal with epoxy. Then add filler as needed. However, the new fillers can go to bare metal, ad to original paint once scuffed. That mostly applies to newer vehicles. I add 2k primer (high build) on top of the epoxy and/or filler. For the engine bay, I have used DP90. (I think that's correct) as a single coat. It has a hardener built in, and it's only meant for stuff like the engine bay. I show this in the light blue mustang series. I use seam sealer after epoxy, and cover it with high build.
Barry you mentioned/recommended a pour spout for the 1-gallon container that allows liquid to be poured smoothly without much gurgling. I have searched 1-gallon spouts online and found them through various sources and ordered a pack. Unfortunately the most common design (looks very similar to your example) I bought was too big for the metal 1-gallon containers I have, and fits plastic 1-gallon containers (did not know there would be a difference). Can you tell me (and others) which spout you are using for the metal 1-gallon containers and where you purchased them. Thanks.
GOT THE SAME PAINT SHAKER BUT DOES NOT HAMMER LIKE YOURS. WHAT AIR PRESSURE DO YOU USE. I ALSO HAVE THE OIL GLASS ON THERE. SORRY FROR SCREAMING CAPS STUCK LOL
I love these videos. I'm a long way away from painting my car, but it always helps to watch someone go through the full process to know what I should expect when I get there. I'd love to see more of these to get an end-to-end view of the whole process. One question I had was about the seam sealer. I was always under the impression the order was Epoxy Primer -> Seam Sealer -> High Build. You swapped the order of the last two. Is there a benefit to doing the seam sealer after the high build?
Just to underestand, Did you use Summit chassis shield paint? If so, I am planning to use it on the frame of VW that I am restoring. can I just leave it there without top coating it? Overall did you find the paint durable and solid to be used on frame?
can i ask can i spray the urethane primer right over the epoxy primer, with in maybe 1 hour. the epoxy primer say's i can topcoat with in 30 minutes. i am wanting to spray the 2k urethane primer next.
I was like a few below, looking around to get the curved plastic pour spout with the cap you used on your Reducer. I would guess only at paint shops, but I like to keep it clean. You know, bench, socks, shoes, etc. I get yelled at by my wife when I track catalyzed product in the house. Happy wife, happy life. Like folks say; Have a good day! I will, unless my wife tells me otherwise! The for the video, it is extra work too! But thanks! Ex-Tech.
Thanks for answering. I appreciate info that helps me learn as I can fix a vehicle, but only painted ours. Also, thanks for having a good microphone and speaking up. 38+ years in dealers, the noise is like a 747 prepping for take off. Wore ear muffs w/air hammer, but dealer never said anything. It’s like the question I ask, what was sunscreen called in 1970? Dirt.
They only say use the same brand thru out as a Pro Body shop. A paint company will only stand behind their product if it's all their material from start to finish !. Other than that experiment away. I do all the time.
Yes it is! Watching the videos you can't help cheering you on. It's interesting to read the comments saying you can't mix products but you read the data sheets which clearly state that is one of the intended uses. Seems that paint manufactures are challenged with making stuff for repairs and not every car is stripped to bare metal and then built back to clear coat using one brand of products. Makes sense they would be backwards compatible with what's on the car just like fluid manufactures do. So now a year later, how's the finish looking, any issues? Hopefully you are driving this one by now :).
I say git er done while your at it. Need to see her painted. Color? I noticed you haven't mention you are building it for you wife, has that changed? Lol.
We used urethane 2k high build primer A paint of my sons 55 Chevy truck & 68 mustang coupe ! BOTH turned out amazing ! For the money u can't beat it ! The 55 about 7 yrs ago , 68 about15 yrs ! Still look great ! 👍🏻
This video and the video of applying the epoxy on Jade will come in handy in the future. The Jade video playlist has been a tremendous help for me. Those videos basically saved my Mustang from me giving up on my badly rusted '67.
As someone who is about to spray their car with the same Shopline products, this is very helpful! Thank you.
I'm amazed at the amount of dust that comes off just from the scuffing. I can't wait till the day I get to spray 2K!
As a shop owner. I never seen windex used for panel prep in 40 years of painting. I might have to try it on a practice panel. Great job on the rest of the work.
Body filler will absorb the water in the Windex and cause problems down the road.
@@Roboticgladiator all cleaners have water, even Prepsol etc... its the products that are oil/petroleum based that would cause issues.. that small amount of absorbed water from windex will not hurt..will evaporate in minutes... only thing with windex is it still leaves a tiny amount of residue behind,, but is easily wiped away with tack cloth
Great Video! I really enjoyed the Time Lapse on the prep work. I can appreciate all of the work that goes into getting the car ready for Hy Build. Thanks
There's good and then there are those who are genuine craftsman.. wish I lived close enough to this man to have my 68 restored by him
Yes on the seam sealer 👍I masked off all seams with PRC 2050 B1/2 and smoothed out nice with another coat of high build primer on my 67 converible
I can see now how far off my spray of PPG Omni MP801 was. Yours going down like regular paint, mine looked like fine splatter!
Always nice to see forward progress. Still working on rewiring my 67 that you featured in your viewer project video. Going slowly because work keeps getting in the way. That and a bad back. Keep the videos coming. They help the rest of us keep going on our projects.
Great video! Thanks for all the details like gun pressure and data sheet info. I like details and you always provide plenty! Keep up the awesome work!
Ever ordered up Tamco 5310 Primer? Twice as think as that Shopline and never shrinks plus sands easy. My only primer now.
Thick
She looks amazing. I am getting closer every day to doing the same on my project. Can't wait.
Hey Brian, you missed a spot!...............NOT!! LOL
Jade's moving along quite nicely! Thank you for the great video's!
Nice brother good video
Every sprayed Tamco 5310? I've used Shopline and PPG what is it K-36? Tamco is cheaper and beats it hands down. Sprays and sands super nice!
Thanks for showing this! I will be very interested in seeing a video when you do the seam sealer! Thanks!
Thanks Barry, great job as always.
Hey.... Nice trick with the tape on the rim with the pouring...
great videos... Im currently buying all the equipment to repaint my ford focus :)
currently got an air compressor and DevillBiss spray gun :)
your videos really helped..
Don't mix and match products unless the substrate requires sanding. The reason is that incompatible reducer (solvents) may cause wrinkling...or shear after a few months.
great videos for my 68 Mustang coupe
Good music! When you wipe it down with Windex what do you use for a rag? I have heard those charts talked about, thanks for pointing out one in real life and what is important on them.
I use bounty paper towels. Then I use a tack cloth.
Having been so long since you started this project I be you are just elated to have it in primer! Good feeling time!
Excellent tutorial! Will be getting a classic Mercedes repainted this summer. After body work is done (very little) the car will be sanded, primed, sealed and done in Cypress Green Metallic base coat clear coat. I will continue to be guided by your videos!
LOOKING LIKE A GOOD JOB. WE PUT ALL THIS STUFF ON JUST TO SAND A LOT OF IT OFF BUT THAT'S HOW IT'S DONE GOOD PROGRESS LOOKING FORWARD TO THE NEXT SEGMENT
good tips on how you pour the paint..I hate paint around the can rim,,,,
What was the make of epoxy you used? I didn't hear what you said. Looks 👍
I use PPG epoxy.
Coming along great good luck with the front right finder your videos are the best on this and always look forward for the next video thumbs up.
Nice work Barry. I am at the same stage in my build. Just when I think I'm ready to apply the high build, my OCD kicks in and I end up redoing areas I'm not quite happy with. For some reason, I am obsessed with both sides having the exact same shapes and contours. I challenged a buddy of mine to find the things I was not happy with, and he was stumped. Maybe I am being too picky. It will be painted gloss black, so better safe than sorry later on I guess. Looking forward to more on this build, especially the blocking and sanding all the nooks and crannies.
I get the same way.
im using AD Advantage 325 2 K high build primer the data sheet said not to excide 24hr before top coating or i would have to sand it With that said what about shrinkage 24 hr or less is that enough time
Not familiar with that product. I like to allow a week or so for it to shrink.
Like your videos I like the racecar panels you were showing the other day.
Looking good Barry 🏁
Great job and thanks for the upload and work.
I need to get one of those spouts for gallon jerry cans!! Car is looking great.
I need a few of those spouts as well , can't seem to find them though .
Thanks for the video material! 40k soon!
Breath deep Barry, there's more where that came from lol. Great vid, my nose could smell the 202 here in W cent. Ill. See ya Monday Terry
wow, very nice. Once question. I noticed you are not wearing goggle. Doesn't that fume burn your eyes?
Paint fumes? No.
Barry...Awesome as usual !! I have a question for you sir. I have a new project = 1970 Mustang Coupe. Unlike my prior project, this one will need both quarters replaced (half way up ) because the bottoms and around the wheel wells are rusted. What would you say your best videos are on how to REMOVE the quarters partially (most interested in how you remove the quarter from the outer wheel hub) ...Thank you !!
Good question. I can't say I've done a partial. Look at the Mystique videos. I sectioned in an outer wheel house on the driver's side. I did a full quarter though.
@@JoDaddysGarage Thanks Barry. I will go look. Partial or full, I am mostly interested in what spot welds I have to attack...Thanks !!!
Hello good morning! Could you tell me please what video(s) you talk about epoxy vs eurathane primers? I am totally confused about all this new stuff - coming from the era of only lacquer primer and only lacquer and acrylic enamel paints. Some questions I have (observations I've made) about videos I've seen are.. l have just cleaned, decreased and sanded down to bare metal the engine compartment of a 69 mustang. It seems that I need to coat that initially with epoxy primer? Then after sanding / preparing, recoat with eurathane / 2k / high build primer (all the same?) before painting? Could I not use eurathane primer on bare metal? Also..I came from the old school of thinking that all filler needed to be put onto freshly ground metal...this new "filler over the top of primer" is messing with me. What type of primer are folks putting filler over the top of? So my question boils down to what are the differences between epoxy and eurathane primers, and when and where to use each, and does fillers and seam sealer go under them or over them? Please? And thank you! I hope to hear back soon, at your convenience of course. Again, thank you!
Well, I typically try to go to bare metal with epoxy. Then add filler as needed. However, the new fillers can go to bare metal, ad to original paint once scuffed. That mostly applies to newer vehicles. I add 2k primer (high build) on top of the epoxy and/or filler. For the engine bay, I have used DP90. (I think that's correct) as a single coat. It has a hardener built in, and it's only meant for stuff like the engine bay. I show this in the light blue mustang series. I use seam sealer after epoxy, and cover it with high build.
Some great TTP's in there!!
Barry you mentioned/recommended a pour spout for the 1-gallon container that allows liquid to be poured smoothly without much gurgling. I have searched 1-gallon spouts online and found them through various sources and ordered a pack. Unfortunately the most common design (looks very similar to your example) I bought was too big for the metal 1-gallon containers I have, and fits plastic 1-gallon containers (did not know there would be a difference). Can you tell me (and others) which spout you are using for the metal 1-gallon containers and where you purchased them. Thanks.
I have done my own searching, and can't seem to find a good source. It is a 1.25" diameter. I bought mine from the PPG paint store.
did you scuff the epoxy on the whole car before applying the primer?Thanks
I did.
At the end you commented on other projects. I'm curious about the Camaro.
It's on hold...
When you hit your trigger on your gun it should read 45 try 3m paint gun cleaner after primer works great
Nice guy I'll see what I can learn I followed
GOT THE SAME PAINT SHAKER BUT DOES NOT HAMMER LIKE YOURS. WHAT AIR PRESSURE DO YOU USE. I ALSO HAVE THE OIL GLASS ON THERE. SORRY FROR SCREAMING CAPS STUCK LOL
I use shop pressure. 150 psi.
@@JoDaddysGarage 100 for me hmmm
Does that ShopLine contain any Iso's? Where do you purchase your product from? Online? Great video
Good question. I assume it does. I buy direct from the PPG store.
hi barry nice work looking good
I love these videos. I'm a long way away from painting my car, but it always helps to watch someone go through the full process to know what I should expect when I get there. I'd love to see more of these to get an end-to-end view of the whole process. One question I had was about the seam sealer. I was always under the impression the order was Epoxy Primer -> Seam Sealer -> High Build. You swapped the order of the last two. Is there a benefit to doing the seam sealer after the high build?
I will be applying another coat of high build after I block sand and seam seal.
Looks great
Great vid , newbie here..... what do you key the epoxy or do / can you block before high build thanks
I did some body work prior to the epoxy application. After the high build, I will apply guide coat, and block sand to find high and low spots.
Jo Daddy's Garage yes .....: but what do you key the epoxy with do the high build sticks thanks
Red scotch brite pads.
Jo Daddy's Garage hi are you sure there's enough bite ? Or would a 320 be better thanks /// great work
Is high build required over epoxy primer sealer?
Depends on the condition of the body. In most cases, yes.
Can u use 3m cups with high build primer & leave screens in?.
Yes
Shouldn't all epoxy be
de blushed! the haze that rises to the surface?
Just to underestand, Did you use Summit chassis shield paint? If so, I am planning to use it on the frame of VW that I am restoring. can I just leave it there without top coating it? Overall did you find the paint durable and solid to be used on frame?
Not summit chassis shield. Summit epoxy.
@@JoDaddysGarage oh ok, I saw one Video that you used summit chassis shield. How do you rate that?
looks good sir
Did you do solvent W&G remover after the water-based W&G remover? I see a lot of people recommend the other way around so I wondered.
I use windex to get the bulk of the dust off. Then the solvent based because it has a better flash to dry. Have to blow it dry to be sure.
can i ask can i spray the urethane primer right over the epoxy primer, with in maybe 1 hour. the epoxy primer say's i can topcoat with in 30 minutes. i am wanting to spray the 2k urethane primer next.
Epoxy usually has a 4 day window to add more material. I would wait more than an hour though. Check your manufacturers data sheet.
@@JoDaddysGarage thanks Dad
I was like a few below, looking around to get the curved plastic pour spout with the cap you used on your Reducer. I would guess only at paint shops, but I like to keep it clean. You know, bench, socks, shoes, etc. I get yelled at by my wife when I track catalyzed product in the house. Happy wife, happy life. Like folks say; Have a good day! I will, unless my wife tells me otherwise! The for the video, it is extra work too! But thanks! Ex-Tech.
yep. paint store. I actually bought a couple more.
Thanks for answering. I appreciate info that helps me learn as I can fix a vehicle, but only painted ours. Also, thanks for having a good microphone and speaking up. 38+ years in dealers, the noise is like a 747 prepping for take off. Wore ear muffs w/air hammer, but dealer never said anything. It’s like the question I ask, what was sunscreen called in 1970? Dirt.
When they say 2-4 coats, about how much did that end up being on a car like this?
For the area I covered it would take about 2 quarts mixed.
Good job amigo nice
They only say use the same brand thru out as a Pro Body shop. A paint company will only stand behind their product if it's all their material from start to finish !.
Other than that experiment away. I do all the time.
a barry the ppg primer does it fill
It will fill small scratches, and minor low spots. Very minor.
where did ya find the the screw on cap on the reducer
My local PPG store
What is that pour spout youre using at 14:22?????
I wish I had an answer. I bought this from the local paint supply store.
what size compressor are you running?
60 gallon 5HP.
Ok thanks I bought the pps 2.0 cups but seemed like they wasn't working for me I guess my compressor don't have enough cfm to run them.
Where can I get the little thinner can spout?
I bought mine at the local PPG store.
@@JoDaddysGarage Thank you
I could buy a new Camry with the time that you have spent on this vehicle!
I only spent free time on it. But it's looking good, no?
Yes it is! Watching the videos you can't help cheering you on. It's interesting to read the comments saying you can't mix products but you read the data sheets which clearly state that is one of the intended uses. Seems that paint manufactures are challenged with making stuff for repairs and not every car is stripped to bare metal and then built back to clear coat using one brand of products. Makes sense they would be backwards compatible with what's on the car just like fluid manufactures do. So now a year later, how's the finish looking, any issues? Hopefully you are driving this one by now :).
What is that music track @ 4:12 ?
It's called Tiptoe out the back. I think it was a free download from youtube.
I say git er done while your at it. Need to see her painted. Color? I noticed you haven't mention you are building it for you wife, has that changed? Lol.
It will be Gulf stream Aqua. It's her car, I just have to drive it.....
Paint code F , M3065 original color, just found a paint chart online while looking for my original royal maroon paint codes.👍🏻👍🏻
Lmao....fumes?!?!
lol