@@tristengammon7844 I’m actually completely sold out. I have had an extremely large number of sales and orders recently. I made a form to give emails for relisting notifications forms.gle/Ym8yyC19hm4bhpSv7
I send endgrain cutting boards through my DeWalt 735 all the time with ZERO issues. Plain knives not a helical head. Two things 1) you need a carriage that backs the board w a sacrificial strip so the end of the cutting board doesn’t tear out and 2) take tiny cuts at slow speed. And change knives often- they’re cheap.
Yep - I said a few other times, I had it go right once. Then the “incident” occurred. And I never want that to happen again. So I use this and it take about 10 minutes to do both sides
@@jeffbuller6708 like I said - I’d rather do this and know it will be successful than do that extra bit and hope. This is just easier for me. Thanks though
You sir, are a genius! I’ve made router sleds before and had bad results, but this took me 10 minutes to knock up and gave me better results than a planer. Had to come back just to say thanks for the idea!
You should do the first pass on one side, then first pass in the other side. With how you show it technically may not be directly vertical, could have a slight lean to it.
I have never heard of not being able to put an end grain board through the planer. That's interesting and I'll have to consider that. Only ever made edge grain boards.
This is a great idea. If you don’t have money for a drum sander. And you don’t have 20 bored hours to orbit sand. I have a belt sander. Cheap from harbor freight. Then I have a couple belts, 60 grit to 320grit. And in 20 minutes of just sending the board back and forth across the top. Smooth board.
Nice - that’s definitely a solid way to do it! It’s more work than I want to do, and I know how bad I am at keeping belt sanders flat, but it’s all about what works for you!
I use a planer for end grain cutting boards all the time. I do glue on a waste piece of wood that is long grain. After planning I cut the waste piece off. All that to say this. I like your trim router sled.
Thanks man - I’ve just never had success sending them through the planer and, I’ll be honest, I just don’t like the extra work of gluing that piece on and then having to cut it back off. I hate wasting pieces of wood. 😂
@@mummsthaword1111 except that I don’t have to wait and then plane it. I just unclamp it and go. 🤷♂️ But we will all do what we are most comfortable with
I have sent dozens of end grain cutting boards through a planer. None have blown up. Just glue some side grain sacrificial boards to the front and the back and take shallow cuts.
When your piece has uneven dried glue material on both sides you need a carriage or some sort of support underneath as you plane or router your first side. You have to make the rough underside "square to the table" with wedges/supports or you will remove more material than necessary from first side.
@@Watchdog_McCoy_5.7x28 I made it for a reason. Feel free to Google end grain and planer and see what the results of that search yield. I made this because of the issues with it and a company approached me about a year later about making it and selling it for me
You can put it through the planer Just only remove a max of 1/16” at a time. If it’s really hard wood or really fibrous, then only remove a 1/32” at a time. It takes a while - however it’s way easier and very consistent.
I used to use a cheap one from Amazon but then I got one from Amana and love it. It’s about $35. Here’s the name of it Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit
It is, but it will take forever. Especially since you’ll have to move back up grits. The best option, if you don’t have a drum sander, is a belt sander, which spits out lots of dust and may leave gouges
Just put it through the planer. Save yourself a hassle and time of all the router nonsense. You can put end grain boards like whats in your video through a planer with ZERO problems. Not sure what youre doing that causes problems, but whatever it is, its obviously wrong. 100% user error.
😂😂 right, cause I’m the ONLY person who has experienced the planer explosion. It’s pretty common. You must be the chosen one since you’ve never even heard of it
I started using this one from tools today and it has been amazing! Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit
I'm surprised you don't get a bit of breakout on the edge from time to time, especially with the deeper cut. I guess you're keeping it shallow over all.
Not shallow, but not super deep either. I usually take a pass to flatten and a shallow one to clean up. But I also haven’t trimmed the sides yet and they will get a roundover. Doing both of those will clean up the sides as well.
Is there any way to do it with hand tools? I messed up my board thinking I could plane end grain and cant find a way to properly flatten it since I dont own any electric tools aside from a hand Drill
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork a hand plane created this mess in the First place and since I git pits in there due to the plane, I don't think sanding will work because I don't know how to get IT perfectly flat
@@cedrics1220 yeah, hand planing, and grain is something that you’re going to need to have very sharp planes with. Get yourself a trim router and this set up and it’s easy. It’s my best advice for you. Sorry.
End grain boards are harder, so they are better for chopping and not leaving marks and getting cut out. All boards are treated with something to make them food safe and prevent growth of bacteria or molds, so proper care of the board, combined with the treatment, does not make it more or less safe!
I like this. I just made my first end grain board and started with the drum sander and it was too slow so I ran it through the planer. I have a shelix head and it did not explode but I think I would prefer this method.
It’s funny, I had a couple people on here. Tell me that the drum sander would not be too slow, but based on experience, I know how long it takes! There’s also been several who have been lucky enough to be successful with the planer, but after having it go bad, I just don’t want to experience that again! This, to me, is the best way to go
I use the Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit It’s the best one I have found for a reasonable price
You are right. Thank you for pointing out that I can do what I want in my shop. I appreciate you worrying about me. Sometimes I wear it sometimes I don’t.
@@jay70328 generally speaking the heavy duty planers do OK with end grain. it is the type that most of us have that can’t handle it. It is interesting, to say the least, when it happens.
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodworkoh - I'm glad you mentioned it in your video then. I thought you meant the wood fibres would explode, not the planer. Definitely not going to try that then!
@@jay70328 no, you were right the first time. It is the wood that will… Explode isn’t quite the right word. It vibrates inside, shatters, and pieces shoot out.
While I agree that it looks awesome, I'm not sure an endgrain board would work great. All it would take is a tiny bit too much force with a knife and you could accidentally split it along the glue seams, no?
No - the end grain refers to the end grain of the board being at the top and bottom, not horizontally. These are the preferred boards of millions of people and have been made forever.
Ultimately it doesn’t really matter what you thickness it with, you’re better off using any end grain board for display purposes than actually doing any meaningful cutting on it or trying to keep it hygienic. Let’s not pretend they’re more than a gimmick to use up your off cuts. lol
“End grain cutting boards are often considered the superior option due to their knife-friendly surface and resistance to deep cuts. However, they can be more costly due to the construction process. Edge grain cutting boards are still a wise option and can be a more affordable choice.” www.johnboos.com/end-grain-vs-edge-grain-cutting-boards-whats-the-difference/
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork That quote is from a website trying to sell you a chopping board so they have bias, especially as they are charging more for end grain so have a vested interest in saying they are worth more. They also spin the end grain’s ability to “close up cuts” as a good thing, but this is exactly what makes them so unhygienic. Not a great citation.
A drum sander would "take a lot of time"¿¡!? Have you ever used a drum sander? You could say maybe not everyone has a drum sander, but come on now.... This is definitely way slower.
At 60 grit it takes 5 minutes. Then you will switch to 80 or 100 grit. Which will take 5 minutes. Or you stick to 100 grit. Which will take 15 minutes. This takes about 10-12 minutes. Either way - you are right that now everyone has $1400 for a drum sander.
@@michaelvallin55 😂😂 Yeah, me and about 20 million other people who have had that issue. I guess you’re just the best ever. Here’s your medal, champ. 🥇
I have two of these machines. One I’ve had for five years the other one I’ve had for probably three. They’re both going strong and work great. I’ve use a couple others and what I found is they are either top-heavy or not as comfortable to hold. One of the things I really like about this machine is the on off switch at the top that is a great safety feature.
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork I'm all about making tools for specific jobs, that is a great idea though, recently I was making a roof beams for a wishing wel/well cover, for the yard, and had to do half cuts , on my 6x6 timbers, but a skill saw wouldn't get my half way , and the chainsaw, does make a good enough cut profile, but I'll tell you what, that ole router, did the job , also used a hand saw to make a profile and parameter. Sometimes when you thinking with out your wallet, it ends up, helping you out, and other people on down the road, just like your idea.
@@joepearson9704hi - the company went live with items last week! Here is a link for the sled: wecncthat.com/product/logan-trim-router-flattening-jig-w-universial-baseplate/
Thanks! I’ve been successful going through a planer once. And then the next time it was terrible. I never want to have that happen again! 😂 this just works for me
Ive sent plenty through without issues and even have used them to fix bowed boards and what not. I had one that was just a normal maple and cherry engrain board and for some reason the planer didn't like it and it sent it flying back out the fed tray in pieces. I'm so glad I always stand to the side of the machine because it could have been really bad. What's funny is I really wasnt even pushing the machine like I had several times before. I still occasionally do it for super thin cuts to just even out a face but if it's anything major I just use a router now and am much happier for it. It takes about as long and since I have a wider jig I can actually do large format stuff just as easily.
@@PiercesPerfectPiecesI never did for the longest time and in general I took super thin cuts and was very gentle with it but there were a couple times wherebthe entire board was cupped and it took big chunks out without issue. Then one time I had a very basic maple and cherry end grain board that was just getting a super small section planed that was just barley out and about 1/3 of it exploded and shor the board and the pieces flying back out the in feed tray. I'm lucky i always sand to the side of my machine but I'm really grateful I wasn't behind it.
You might want to consider adding a hard stop at the ends of that jig so it's impossible during normal use for the bit to cut outside where hands might be. Nice cutting board and tips/tricks! Thanks for sharing!
Honestly this may be quicker than sending it through the planer anyway. No shimming or hot gluing to a sled and waiting for it to dry then sending through and flipping. No doubt it’s safer too, great little jig for flattening small pieces!
The small one is plenty! And I’m working with a company who is now selling the flattening sled! If you go to Www.WeCNCthat.com and click on my avatar (Logan Newman) you can get one
It’s so ugly when it happens! I started using the Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit toolstoday.com/v-17673-45522.html
It really comes down to what type of planer you get. A cast iron bed with a heavy head will be fine. Most of the lunchbox planners - like this one and smaller - lack the power to cut through the hard end grain. It will bounce around inside and pieces will break off and shoot out.
At 60 grit it takes 5 minutes. Then you will switch to 80 or 100 grit. Which will take 5 minutes. Or you stick to 100 grit. Which will take 15 minutes. This takes about 10-12 minutes. Either way - you are right that now everyone has $1400 for a drum sander.
You can send it through the planer. Glue sacrificial boards around it like a frame. It works fine every time. As long as you aren’t taking off a ton at once.
@@matthewmarotta2081 this is what I have been using and I really like it: AstraHP Coated* Whiteside 6210 Surfacing & Flattening CNC Router Bit 1/4″ Shank
What type router bit are you using? The one I have tried on my router creates A LOT of tear out and then I have sand for ours then the board isn't flat anymore.
I was using a cheap spoilboard flattening bit ($17) from amazing but I recently switched to this one from Amana ($34) and it has been amazing. I didn’t have tear out with the old one but the cut is faster and cleaner with the new one. Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit toolstoday.com/v-17673-45522.html
Ok thank you. I have been using a bit from amazon for $18. The first board it flattened perfectly but the three after that I have nasty tear out. Any other ideas what I might be doing wrong? @@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork
The pores of the Red Oak makes that wood a mistake for use on a cutting boards. Eventually the will fill with nasty odors or bacteria which will be almost impossible to clean properly
Thank you for posting that - I’m sure there re people who will need to know that. Thankfully there is no red oak in this board. This board is cherry, maple, walnut, and white oak, which is fine for cutting boards
I started using this one and love it Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork yes. After 30 years in the industry we know that the technology has created better small motors. However, the duty rating for the Small routers is based entirely upon very limited rotating mass factor.
@@paulflynn2481 I had a dewalt trim router in one machine for 3 years. I replaced the brushes 2x. My newer machine works with a makita router. There are people I know who run it 8-10 hours a day and pulling in 3 figures a year on sales that their machine cuts for them. I think they have figured out the machine load at this time. Well, I don’t pretend to be a mechanical or electrical engineer, I do have the ability to listen and feel a machine as I use it. I have yet to experience an issue with the router in my jigs.
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork I was only able to find the aftermath of it, but never the accident in progress. So yea, maybe something cool to see for educational purposes. Anyway, thanks for the videos.
Maybe an exaggeration, but not false. This is especially true with the smaller planers. I’ve had it happen and so have enough people that there are videos on it and “work arounds” to the issue.
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork Respectfully, it's a massive exaggeration. There is a risk it could explode. I know that because it's happened to me exactly once - out of the hundreds and hundreds (thousands?) of times I've put end grain boards through a DeWalt 735 planer. If you do it properly and patiently (ie. light, repeated passes), it's very, very low risk. Also, a planer is inherently a far safer tool than a router - so there's that.
@@devinredlich7011 I have the same machine - I’ve had it go right once. The next times it did not. I have found this to be far easier and safer for me. I’ve said it a few times on here - I am honestly happy that it has worked out well for you, but I’ll stick with what has worked for me. I am not interested in having it explode apart and come flying out the ends again! Underwear is expensive
BS, if you own a good planer ( not a lunchbox or table top planer ) you won't have problems, especially if you encase the sides. That little trim router is sketch, but sometimes you got to do the best with what you got
Oversize it by enough a o that you can can cut off your blowout which you should nomatter how you to reach finish size. This may not wrong but it is labor intensive. On you glueup you only needed to add a throwaway course. Easy peazy. Planer is still faster
You can actually send an endgrain cutting board through the planer. All you need to do is to add a chamfer at the end of your cutting board and take light passes. This will avoid any tear out or "explosion".
I sell these through my Etsy page now! newmanspecials.etsy.com/listing/1646706556
Do you have a video how you made the jig?
@@tristengammon7844 not this one, sorry!
How do I get one ?
@@tristengammon7844 I’m actually completely sold out. I have had an extremely large number of sales and orders recently. I made a form to give emails for relisting notifications
forms.gle/Ym8yyC19hm4bhpSv7
I need that bad.....just put my 1st cutting board together and had hesitation on running it thru my planer...glad I saw your video.
I send endgrain cutting boards through my DeWalt 735 all the time with ZERO issues. Plain knives not a helical head. Two things 1) you need a carriage that backs the board w a sacrificial strip so the end of the cutting board doesn’t tear out and 2) take tiny cuts at slow speed. And change knives often- they’re cheap.
Yep - I said a few other times, I had it go right once. Then the “incident” occurred. And I never want that to happen again. So I use this and it take about 10 minutes to do both sides
I came to say the same thing. Glue a sacrificial on and take tiny passes. The router sled is great if it won't fit through the planer.
@@jeffbuller6708 like I said - I’d rather do this and know it will be successful than do that extra bit and hope. This is just easier for me. Thanks though
I was just thinking the same thing. Dewalt seems to work just fine. Just have to take very light passes
@@jeremyfugarino7901router for the win
You sir, are a genius! I’ve made router sleds before and had bad results, but this took me 10 minutes to knock up and gave me better results than a planer. Had to come back just to say thanks for the idea!
Love to hear that!! Thank you for letting me know!
You should do the first pass on one side, then first pass in the other side. With how you show it technically may not be directly vertical, could have a slight lean to it.
I’ll be squirting it up on the table saw, so I’m not really worried about it, but you are correct that it might happen!
I have never heard of not being able to put an end grain board through the planer. That's interesting and I'll have to consider that. Only ever made edge grain boards.
Yeah, it is ugly when it goes bad! I’m actually selling these jigs through a company called weCNCthat
I used this video to build this jig, just not adjustable, and it worked perfectly! Only took about 10 minutes to build. Thank you for this idea
That’s so great! I’m glad it was helpful!
This is a great idea. If you don’t have money for a drum sander. And you don’t have 20 bored hours to orbit sand. I have a belt sander. Cheap from harbor freight. Then I have a couple belts, 60 grit to 320grit. And in 20 minutes of just sending the board back and forth across the top. Smooth board.
Nice - that’s definitely a solid way to do it! It’s more work than I want to do, and I know how bad I am at keeping belt sanders flat, but it’s all about what works for you!
I use a planer for end grain cutting boards all the time. I do glue on a waste piece of wood that is long grain. After planning I cut the waste piece off. All that to say this. I like your trim router sled.
Thanks man - I’ve just never had success sending them through the planer and, I’ll be honest, I just don’t like the extra work of gluing that piece on and then having to cut it back off. I hate wasting pieces of wood. 😂
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodworkthis looks like much more extra work than gluing an extra piece on
@@mummsthaword1111 except that I don’t have to wait and then plane it. I just unclamp it and go. 🤷♂️ But we will all do what we are most comfortable with
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork you add the sacrificial board when your clamp up the last glue up. Waiting the same amount of time then.
I have sent dozens of end grain cutting boards through a planer. None have blown up.
Just glue some side grain sacrificial boards to the front and the back and take shallow cuts.
The shallow passes didn’t work for me. I’ll stick with this, since it does. Thanks
When your piece has uneven dried glue material on both sides you need a carriage or some sort of support underneath as you plane or router your first side. You have to make the rough underside "square to the table" with wedges/supports or you will remove more material than necessary from first side.
Absolutely! Unless your piece is relatively flat, this is always a good idea!
Amazing jig right there.i already did and used one just like yours and it works wonders.
Nice! I’m so glad to hear it!🙌
If you clean up your squeeze out then wipe it down with a wet rag you can put it in a planer.
The glue has nothing to do with the planer. It’s the end grain and the strength of the wood
Chamfer the back edge with a hand plane and send it through normal planer. It works fine
Could you set up a jig for a power plane? Makita or DeWalt
Maybe. It would be fun to try
Sent all my end grain cutting boards through the planer. No issues.
As I’ve said several times on here - I am very happy for you. Most people I know have not been so lucky.
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodworkwell you’re the one who said you can’t do it. What did you expect?
@@mummsthaword1111 about what?
He's selling the jig. Obviously he wants to make money, so of course he'll say the planer doesn't work.
@@Watchdog_McCoy_5.7x28 I made it for a reason. Feel free to Google end grain and planer and see what the results of that search yield. I made this because of the issues with it and a company approached me about a year later about making it and selling it for me
What kind of woods did you use on there please. Looks cool
Thank you - it’s Walnut, cherry, white oak, and maple
My first approach would be figuring what I have to do to run it through a planer. 😂
Never had a problem and I’ve made dozens of end grain boards. Super light passes
You can put it through the planer
Just only remove a max of 1/16” at a time.
If it’s really hard wood or really fibrous, then only remove a 1/32” at a time.
It takes a while - however it’s way easier and very consistent.
Thanks. I’ve never had that work. This is easier for me
You absolutely can send an end grain board through a planer just take small passes
Yep. I was successful doing it once. And then I wasn’t and I never want to have that experience again!
what kind of bit are you using on your router?
I used to use a cheap one from Amazon but then I got one from Amana and love it. It’s about $35. Here’s the name of it
Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit
such a great tutorial 👏
Thank you!
Is sanding it with low grit paper not an option ?
It is, but it will take forever. Especially since you’ll have to move back up grits. The best option, if you don’t have a drum sander, is a belt sander, which spits out lots of dust and may leave gouges
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork I agree
Just put it through the planer. Save yourself a hassle and time of all the router nonsense. You can put end grain boards like whats in your video through a planer with ZERO problems. Not sure what youre doing that causes problems, but whatever it is, its obviously wrong. 100% user error.
😂😂 right, cause I’m the ONLY person who has experienced the planer explosion. It’s pretty common. You must be the chosen one since you’ve never even heard of it
Nice technique 👍
Thanks! I love this thing
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork I've been wanting to attempt an end grain cutting board, and this will definitely go on the homework list
@@pecantreedesign it makes it so much easier and it’s a hell of a lot cheaper than other options!
Very nice simple flatting sled ✅
Thank you! One of my favorite pieces!
The word you was looking for is parallel not squared
Definitely a better word
Instead of flipping all your strips one way ...flip every other one in other direction for a nicer finished pattern
I do that sometimes! I didn’t want to on this one though, thanks!
What bit do you use
I started using this one from tools today and it has been amazing!
Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit
I'm surprised you don't get a bit of breakout on the edge from time to time, especially with the deeper cut. I guess you're keeping it shallow over all.
Not shallow, but not super deep either. I usually take a pass to flatten and a shallow one to clean up. But I also haven’t trimmed the sides yet and they will get a roundover. Doing both of those will clean up the sides as well.
Made my lungs hurt.
Them too what I do and wear a mask
What do you mean when you say:
"...to the table."
The sled rides on the table so you are flattening the piece relative to the table
Only if you have flat table.
That's cool.
Thanks!!
That is gangster g
Thanks! One of my favorite pieces to use!
Is there any way to do it with hand tools? I messed up my board thinking I could plane end grain and cant find a way to properly flatten it since I dont own any electric tools aside from a hand Drill
You could try a hand plane but it will be able the same. You could do it with a belt sander, but that will be a ton of work too!
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork a hand plane created this mess in the First place and since I git pits in there due to the plane, I don't think sanding will work because I don't know how to get IT perfectly flat
@@cedrics1220 yeah, hand planing, and grain is something that you’re going to need to have very sharp planes with. Get yourself a trim router and this set up and it’s easy. It’s my best advice for you. Sorry.
I use my cnc😊
Fantastic!
Thanks!
Very nice
@@GreenSaxon thanks! I love it!
Fun fact: block planes are so named because they are made to plane end grain on butcher blocks
Fun fact - flattening this with a block plane would take you around forever.
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork It’s like 5 minutes. I’ve done it.
@@Mars-zgblbl 😂😂 there is not a person alive that could use a block plane to clean up a 17x14 end grain board in 5 minutes. 😂😂
Why a end grain cutting boards, I’m literally asking wouldn’t that be more unsanitary since it can soak into the grain I mean I don’t know I’m asking
End grain boards are harder, so they are better for chopping and not leaving marks and getting cut out. All boards are treated with something to make them food safe and prevent growth of bacteria or molds, so proper care of the board, combined with the treatment, does not make it more or less safe!
I like this. I just made my first end grain board and started with the drum sander and it was too slow so I ran it through the planer. I have a shelix head and it did not explode but I think I would prefer this method.
It’s funny, I had a couple people on here. Tell me that the drum sander would not be too slow, but based on experience, I know how long it takes! There’s also been several who have been lucky enough to be successful with the planer, but after having it go bad, I just don’t want to experience that again! This, to me, is the best way to go
Can you show the bit? Or just get the widest that you can find? Asking for a friend. lol
I use the
Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit
It’s the best one I have found for a reasonable price
No hearing protection. No, you don’t have ear plugs in. I managed to stop the video at just the right time, I could see clear into your ear holes.
You are right. Thank you for pointing out that I can do what I want in my shop. I appreciate you worrying about me. Sometimes I wear it sometimes I don’t.
the excess glue will cause problems if not addressed
The dried glue? As long as the board sits mostly flat it’s fine
i use my bridgeport mill with lots bigger table wirh a big cutter with power feed😅
Ok. Thanks
I put one through a planer and yes, it did explode 😂 hurt like a mofo
It is not enjoyable at all!
Now i want to go put some end grain through my planer
@@jay70328 go for it. Please record it happening
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork I'm equal parts intrigued and terrified!
@@jay70328 generally speaking the heavy duty planers do OK with end grain. it is the type that most of us have that can’t handle it. It is interesting, to say the least, when it happens.
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodworkoh - I'm glad you mentioned it in your video then. I thought you meant the wood fibres would explode, not the planer. Definitely not going to try that then!
@@jay70328 no, you were right the first time. It is the wood that will… Explode isn’t quite the right word. It vibrates inside, shatters, and pieces shoot out.
While I agree that it looks awesome, I'm not sure an endgrain board would work great. All it would take is a tiny bit too much force with a knife and you could accidentally split it along the glue seams, no?
No - the end grain refers to the end grain of the board being at the top and bottom, not horizontally. These are the preferred boards of millions of people and have been made forever.
Just take off little bits and the plainer is fine. No sooo bad.
Ultimately it doesn’t really matter what you thickness it with, you’re better off using any end grain board for display purposes than actually doing any meaningful cutting on it or trying to keep it hygienic.
Let’s not pretend they’re more than a gimmick to use up your off cuts. lol
“End grain cutting boards are often considered the superior option due to their knife-friendly surface and resistance to deep cuts. However, they can be more costly due to the construction process. Edge grain cutting boards are still a wise option and can be a more affordable choice.”
www.johnboos.com/end-grain-vs-edge-grain-cutting-boards-whats-the-difference/
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork
That quote is from a website trying to sell you a chopping board so they have bias, especially as they are charging more for end grain so have a vested interest in saying they are worth more.
They also spin the end grain’s ability to “close up cuts” as a good thing, but this is exactly what makes them so unhygienic.
Not a great citation.
@@adewhite731 ok
what's wrong with the planner?
The end grain is too hard for smaller machines and the piece will not be able to be planed, causing damage to the piece or the machine
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork huh, the grizzly 13" does it just fine
@@Ramdodge582 does it have a helical head? Some of those are better smaller to handle it because it isn’t one large blade cutting in
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork yeah, I'm not a caveman
Ever hear of a hand plane????
Ever hear of reality???
What the heck why did i never think of this???
Because I’m slow and needed help to flatten boards!
A drum sander would "take a lot of time"¿¡!? Have you ever used a drum sander? You could say maybe not everyone has a drum sander, but come on now.... This is definitely way slower.
At 60 grit it takes 5 minutes. Then you will switch to 80 or 100 grit. Which will take 5 minutes. Or you stick to 100 grit. Which will take 15 minutes. This takes about 10-12 minutes.
Either way - you are right that now everyone has $1400 for a drum sander.
What if board has slight bow in it? My drum sander won't get it totally flat.
This definitely would. Just make sure it is shimmed and held in place
You def can send it through a plane I do it all the time.
The. You have been lucky
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork Maybe I'm just better at bonding then you
@@michaelvallin55 😂😂 Yeah, me and about 20 million other people who have had that issue. I guess you’re just the best ever. Here’s your medal, champ. 🥇
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork Thanks!
My drum sander is faster and cleaner
If you say so
Rigid? Really? Junk!
I have two of these machines. One I’ve had for five years the other one I’ve had for probably three. They’re both going strong and work great. I’ve use a couple others and what I found is they are either top-heavy or not as comfortable to hold. One of the things I really like about this machine is the on off switch at the top that is a great safety feature.
@jonaswinkler
Thats a great idea. ❤ finally a wood worker that owns normal guy tools, not the entire fest tools catalog.
Thanks! Making, or buying this, is about 20x cheaper than buying a drum sander or a cast iron planer!!
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork I'm all about making tools for specific jobs, that is a great idea though, recently I was making a roof beams for a wishing wel/well cover, for the yard, and had to do half cuts , on my 6x6 timbers, but a skill saw wouldn't get my half way , and the chainsaw, does make a good enough cut profile, but I'll tell you what, that ole router, did the job , also used a hand saw to make a profile and parameter. Sometimes when you thinking with out your wallet, it ends up, helping you out, and other people on down the road, just like your idea.
@@LifestyleNotOfTheRichAndFamous that’s a great way to do it and a great way of wording it!
Forgot to ask, what trim bit are you using?
What does FESTOOL have to do with anything?
do you have a link to the trim router sled build?
Not yet. It’s coming soonish
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork Cool. I'll be watching.
@@joepearson9704hi - the company went live with items last week! Here is a link for the sled: wecncthat.com/product/logan-trim-router-flattening-jig-w-universial-baseplate/
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork excellent. Thank you.
@@joepearson9704 glad to help!
Nah. Doesn’t look that great. But you did a good job.
I have used a planer on all my end grain cutting boards, just go slowly and don't use a dull blade. Cool board!
Thanks! I’ve been successful going through a planer once. And then the next time it was terrible. I never want to have that happen again! 😂 this just works for me
Anyone thats used a planer knows its possible and feasible for this project. Just take a tiny bit at a time.
@@rl4889 I believe i already mentioned that it is, but this is faster and easier for me at this point
I've never had a problem planning end grain cutting boards.
Some people are lucky. Once you have it go bad you never want to experience it again
That’s what I was wondering/thinking!! 🤔
I do it all the time after glue up & I’ve never had it "explode" on me! 🤔 🤷♂️
@@PiercesPerfectPieces that’s great! It’s pretty common
Ive sent plenty through without issues and even have used them to fix bowed boards and what not. I had one that was just a normal maple and cherry engrain board and for some reason the planer didn't like it and it sent it flying back out the fed tray in pieces. I'm so glad I always stand to the side of the machine because it could have been really bad. What's funny is I really wasnt even pushing the machine like I had several times before. I still occasionally do it for super thin cuts to just even out a face but if it's anything major I just use a router now and am much happier for it. It takes about as long and since I have a wider jig I can actually do large format stuff just as easily.
@@PiercesPerfectPiecesI never did for the longest time and in general I took super thin cuts and was very gentle with it but there were a couple times wherebthe entire board was cupped and it took big chunks out without issue. Then one time I had a very basic maple and cherry end grain board that was just getting a super small section planed that was just barley out and about 1/3 of it exploded and shor the board and the pieces flying back out the in feed tray. I'm lucky i always sand to the side of my machine but I'm really grateful I wasn't behind it.
You might want to consider adding a hard stop at the ends of that jig so it's impossible during normal use for the bit to cut outside where hands might be. Nice cutting board and tips/tricks! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you - if I can figure out a good way to do it I will!
Honestly this may be quicker than sending it through the planer anyway. No shimming or hot gluing to a sled and waiting for it to dry then sending through and flipping. No doubt it’s safer too, great little jig for flattening small pieces!
@@asoggyburger479 thanks! That’s my thought- and it’s easier to store!
It makes both faces parallel to each other.
Thank you so much I was wondering if I had to get a really huge router or if I can use a smaller one
The small one is plenty! And I’m working with a company who is now selling the flattening sled! If you go to Www.WeCNCthat.com and click on my avatar (Logan Newman) you can get one
I think you mean parallel not square
I sent my end grain cutting board through my 735 yesterday and it sent it right back to me. 😂
What router bit are you using?
It’s so ugly when it happens! I started using the Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit
toolstoday.com/v-17673-45522.html
Im an intermediate and have never had a planer before. But thinking of getting one. Can i get an understanding of why a planer cant do this?
It really comes down to what type of planer you get. A cast iron bed with a heavy head will be fine. Most of the lunchbox planners - like this one and smaller - lack the power to cut through the hard end grain. It will bounce around inside and pieces will break off and shoot out.
I am curious why you wouldn't just use a hand plane. Seems like it would be a little bit faster.
Are you being serious? Or is that a joke? It’s hard to tell over text
I have a board that looks like that but it started to separate from each other in the middle. Is there any way to repair something like this?
The only thing to do would be to cut it down the joint and then re-glue it. It’s pretty easy to fix
If you put a piece of mdf or particle glued to an end you can send it throught the planer no problem
I’ve heard that, but I’ve never been successful with it!
drum sander would really take longer? i like the sled you made and it’s a good video but why lie?
At 60 grit it takes 5 minutes. Then you will switch to 80 or 100 grit. Which will take 5 minutes. Or you stick to 100 grit. Which will take 15 minutes. This takes about 10-12 minutes.
Either way - you are right that now everyone has $1400 for a drum sander.
“You know your machine you know your bits…” 😐🤨
Yes
I just surface mine on the CNC and go upstairs while it’s facing
Cool. Thanks for letting us know.
I made myself something similar to this but for the life of me i cant get it consistent.
I'm sorry to hear that. Do you have any idea why? Does it sit flat on the table?
You can send it through the planer. Glue sacrificial boards around it like a frame. It works fine every time. As long as you aren’t taking off a ton at once.
I’ve had a few people say that - I’ve done it but the extra work and wasted wood always irritated me. This is just easier for me at this point. Thanks
Couldn't you also use a Stanley no. 5 hand plane?
It depends on how many hours you have free
I'm watching this while looking at my cnc that has a facing feature..
Yep. It’s good to have a CNC. Not everyone has one though
Cool jig. Beats doing it with a chisel.
Absolutely
Show what kind of bit are you using
@@matthewmarotta2081 this is what I have been using and I really like it: AstraHP Coated* Whiteside 6210 Surfacing & Flattening CNC Router Bit 1/4″ Shank
Really? You can’t do it with thicknesser?😳
It depends on your machine. Most of the smaller benchtop machines can’t do it.
What type router bit are you using? The one I have tried on my router creates A LOT of tear out and then I have sand for ours then the board isn't flat anymore.
I was using a cheap spoilboard flattening bit ($17) from amazing but I recently switched to this one from Amana ($34) and it has been amazing. I didn’t have tear out with the old one but the cut is faster and cleaner with the new one.
Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit
toolstoday.com/v-17673-45522.html
Ok thank you. I have been using a bit from amazon for $18. The first board it flattened perfectly but the three after that I have nasty tear out. Any other ideas what I might be doing wrong? @@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork
You can send it through a planer no problem at all, but this is also another solution if you don't have a planer 😉
It might be easier to use an old fashioned hand plane lol
Oh dear lord no. Definitely not
The pores of the Red Oak makes that wood a mistake for use on a cutting boards. Eventually the will fill with nasty odors or bacteria which will be almost impossible to clean properly
Thank you for posting that - I’m sure there re people who will need to know that. Thankfully there is no red oak in this board. This board is cherry, maple, walnut, and white oak, which is fine for cutting boards
Red oak is so full of tannins it'll never stink. Pores are irrelevant when you're dealing with end grain.
White oak is open grain too, I wouldn’t use it either.
They use white oak for wine barrels because it breathes.
What type of bit did you use to trim it down with?
I started using this one and love it
Amana Tool 45522 Carbide Tipped 1 Dia x 1/4 CH x 1/4 Shk x 1-3/4 Long Spoilboard Surfacing & Flattening 3-Flute Router Bit
helical head planer does great job on decking the end grain. My question is, why do people use laminate trimmers beyond what the armature can handle
You mean like how they are used in all the smaller CNC’s?
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork yes. After 30 years in the industry we know that the technology has created better small motors. However, the duty rating for the Small routers is based entirely upon very limited rotating mass factor.
@@paulflynn2481 I had a dewalt trim router in one machine for 3 years. I replaced the brushes 2x. My newer machine works with a makita router. There are people I know who run it 8-10 hours a day and pulling in 3 figures a year on sales that their machine cuts for them.
I think they have figured out the machine load at this time. Well, I don’t pretend to be a mechanical or electrical engineer, I do have the ability to listen and feel a machine as I use it. I have yet to experience an issue with the router in my jigs.
Could you find a video of a planer exploding? I totally believe you when you said it could explode, I just want to see it happen.
I don’t know - I’m not exactly sure that is something I want to have happen intentionally, but it is a good idea to try.
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork I was only able to find the aftermath of it, but never the accident in progress. So yea, maybe something cool to see for educational purposes. Anyway, thanks for the videos.
@@IceXiao I actually just got a new planer and might try this with the dewalt!
LoL. "You can't send it through a planer because it'll explode". This is patently false.
Maybe an exaggeration, but not false. This is especially true with the smaller planers. I’ve had it happen and so have enough people that there are videos on it and “work arounds” to the issue.
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork Respectfully, it's a massive exaggeration. There is a risk it could explode. I know that because it's happened to me exactly once - out of the hundreds and hundreds (thousands?) of times I've put end grain boards through a DeWalt 735 planer. If you do it properly and patiently (ie. light, repeated passes), it's very, very low risk.
Also, a planer is inherently a far safer tool than a router - so there's that.
@@devinredlich7011 I have the same machine - I’ve had it go right once. The next times it did not. I have found this to be far easier and safer for me. I’ve said it a few times on here - I am honestly happy that it has worked out well for you, but I’ll stick with what has worked for me. I am not interested in having it explode apart and come flying out the ends again! Underwear is expensive
You can plain an end grain cutting board.
Yes you can. But once you have it go bad you don’t want to do it again
BS, if you own a good planer ( not a lunchbox or table top planer ) you won't have problems, especially if you encase the sides. That little trim router is sketch, but sometimes you got to do the best with what you got
Oversize it by enough a o that you can can cut off your blowout which you should nomatter how you to reach finish size. This may not wrong but it is labor intensive. On you glueup you only needed to add a throwaway course. Easy peazy. Planer is still faster
Built this, works fantastic tks
@@HaroldSears-x5c that’s awesome! Glad to help! 🙌🙌
Doing it to the table, it's going to be square.I don't understand
@@thewoodshop69 yes. It will be
@@NewmanSpecialsWoodwork don't you mean flat
@@thewoodshop69 maybe parallel to the table worked be the best statement
Not gonna lie I thought e audio was Jimmy Diresta for a second there
I’m not upset about that! 😂🙌
What bit do you use though?
@@cgrizz33 I like the bits and bits 1” bit or the Amana 1” bit. Both are reasonably priced and do a great job
You can actually send an endgrain cutting board through the planer. All you need to do is to add a chamfer at the end of your cutting board and take light passes. This will avoid any tear out or "explosion".