Trying To Fix Death Wobble On A Jeep Wrangler JL/JT
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- Опубліковано 18 вер 2024
- Fixing your death wobble isn't what you are told it is. In fact most people don't even know this is an issue at all. Instead of putting a band-aid on the problem learn how to properly fix the issues that Wranglers & Gladiators have that actually causes death wobble.
Every Jeep in our group has had this issue & once replaced with the cheap fix death wobble was gone!
I traded my beloved JK for a JL and after 3 months I got the death wobble, it was so scary, I went to my dealer angry and demanded to be fixed...I'm glad they really fixed for me, now 3 years later my turbocharge Jeep keep running like a Pro!
Do you know what they fixed? Thanks.
Its the steering box and steering damper combined. 👍
Before the aftermarket track bars were available ( late 90s when tjs came out) we would put the oem track bar in a press and flatten the curved part a little to lengthen it and recenter the axle, or redrill the holes on the alxe bracket. If you have wallowed holes you can bolt it down with washers or plates and tack weld them, remove the track bar and fully weld.
I was commenting while viewing. You got it.
That torque spec seems like torque to yield?
Had to weld washers onto the track bar bracket on the frame side of a 2 door JK a buddy had. My husband grabbed the same washers that were used on the JK but the inner diameter for the holes were basically the same.
Not 100% sure. It said 52 foot pounds and then an additional 115° for the torque spec 🤷♀️
@@DirtRockTeam that’s absolutely wild. I’ve never seen that before.❤
I worked as a mechanic for a few years in the 70s and still do all the work that needs to be done on my own vehicles. Like you I have figured out problems that no one else could, or they would say that what I said was the problem wasn't, but it would end up being the problem. We can't all be perfect. LOL
You can buy metric replacement bolts for the track bar and yeah, you’re right they are threaded all the way through instead of being a proper size shoulder up against that bracket so you end up basically threading the holes and they end up wallowed out. I replaced my bar and checked to make sure my holes weren’t walled out. I installed the new bolts which slid right through and had no play in them and I torque them properly. I’ve checked them since with prybars and still holding.
They sell “weld washers” that you drill out the hole to a larger diameter & they are stepped and milled to be precise to fit the bolt size
Nice job showing it all. Even the ratchet strap stuff which is what we all do
Metalcloak actually sells a reinforcement bracket that encapsulates the frame side track bar bracket because they are even thinner than they were on the JKs. Part 2 of this shows where a Teraflex raised track bar bracket on the axle side to fix the issue there. Crazy how much sooner these are happening though. There is another JLU that has 24,000 miles and almost as bad as this one that is getting the same things done to it to stop it
I’ve tried I had to use a come along when I did this, but I had some junk ratchet straps
I replaced the track bar with a new metalclock, drilled it out along with the track bar axle mount and frame mount all to 5/8 truck frame flange bolts no more problems, the frame bolts are about as tough as you can get
Great info. I’ll take these tips underneath my Jeep. I have a shaking issue mostly on bumpier roads.
Great job breaking this down. Thanks for making the effort.
Bottle jack between tire and frame works really well.
It really makes sense when youre offroading the amount of kinetic force and vibrations will be enough to loosen bolts. Honestly Jeep should offer reasonably cheap bolt checks
Watching this video, for a precision fit, I like to use drill bits because they are the closest you can find tolerances.
So many comments from me but they are all good ones BMW their bushing has got lines cut into them so if you took a hacksaw and kept turning bushing just 1/32 deep once them bolts are tight, you will never have that problem German technology rules.❤❤❤❤❤ the ultimate driving vehicle
IMO… the holes oval because the stock bolts are fully threaded. I had this exact issue with my jk and fixed it with weld washers and a bolt with a long shoulder so that the bracket no longer moves on threads
Must of us in our group have been lucky and haven’t had to weld washers on, except a 2 door. We shouldn’t have to do this with the JLs & JTs because metalcloak makes a frame side reinforcement bracket for this. The 9/16 bolts we put in are not threaded all the way either
Check the caster angle with an angle finder on the ball joint, if lfted and not set properly with control arms or eccentrics the improper castor angle will cause the wobble IF other components are loose/ worn.
Side load from the lift without an adjustable trac bar contributes to the wallowed out hole. Side load also wears the bushings. The jeep should not shift sideways when the trac bar is unbolted.
Excessive positive Castor. That's what I was thinking. Lift changes the Castor angle of the front axle.
The 13/16" vs 21mm issue is because there are slight variances allowed in the manufacture of the bolts and the wrenches need to account for that. Technically, 13/16" would be 20.6375mm, but there is no guarantee of this, just like there is no guarantee that the 20mm or 21mm are going to be exactly 20mm or 21mm... Basically, you try what is *supposed* to work in metric or SAE and then try the closest sizes in the other measuring system, just in case...
Thanks! I've got a Clayton 2.5" Overland + I'm installing in 4 weeks, hoping I don't get death wobble after it's installed. I swear the Jeep handled like a sports car in its stock configuration. A little worse handling with my 37s on the stock suspension though.
The larger tires will put more strain on your steering an suspension. Load range on the tires can make it ride rougher too. As long as all steering and suspension components are in good working order and the alignment is done properly to ensure proper geometry then there should be zero issues with anything on your vehicle.
@@DirtRockTeam No DW but I had a really bad shimmy so I'm currently hiding it with a Fox ATS stabilizer cranked to the firmest setting. $1500 between 4 shops and everyone says, "everything looks good, this is better than our Jeep!" They all have extremely low expectations if the steering wheel shaking crazy is better than theirs....
@@mikethompson7406 100% agree! This is one of the reasons why we resorted to doing as much by ourselves as we can 😥
Knowing about the potential death wobble issue, the first thing I did to my JL (at about 3,000 miles on the odometer) was install the Steer Smarts sector shaft brace. It also wraps around the frame side track bar mount and they supply a longer bolt to mount the track bar to the frame side mount. I really don't know if it will help over time but I knew I had to try something. At 16,000 miles everything is fine, so far. I'm on the search for something that will reinforce the axle side track bar mount.
We have been eye balling the frame side reinforcement bracket that metalcloak makes for these. We have not yet come across one that does the axle side with out raising the track bar as well
Synergy makes one too. The only reason I chose the Street Smarts is because the sector shaft bearing is a sealed bearing. The Synergy requires greasing. Anything is an improvement over the factory setup.
@@DirtRockTeam Metalcloak is amazing. Highly recommended.
@@DonovanGoodwin we do as well! A lot of stuff on my JK is metalcloak as well as our gladiator
This is exactly what ive come to find. Its just too thin steel to handle the stress. Upper i added a steer smart and lower i plan to reinforce with their corrections bracket.
Fyi...if you have a winch, use it to pull the front end over to line the track bar up! Itll make things so easy!
When I worked on our gladiator the front track bar had a really sloppy joint at the frame and it was about a 1/4” inch too short. With the aftermarket bar and centered axle no issues.
My Dealer replaced the Stabilizer 4 times and it never fixed the problem. The dealer kept telling me that they got a bad batch of stabilizers and that's why it wasn't fixed.
took it someplace else, and they put a new track bar and bushings in, and it hasn't come back since.
Make sure you check the control arm bushings as well, it ended up being my lower ball joint.
I’m going to get 9/16 bolts, grade 8. Very snug washers to weld in place both sides, No more issues except bushing life.
Had to do this very thing on a 2015 2 door
When I got your 9/16 bolt, did the shoulder go from the front to the end of the bracket or half way. Also how thick were the washers u welded.
@@davidsandoval9096 We would grab bolts that were as close in length to the factory bolts from the start to help prevent the issue. Depending on availability at our local hardware store sometimes they would end up being a 1/2” longer with no shoulder to them at all. As far as the washer thickness, it would be whatever thickness a grade 8 1/2” washer came out to be. May have to grab a few various length bolts to see which one is going to work best for your vehicle though. Don't want the bolt getting in the way of vent tubes or coming in contact with your axle too much either.
I got a "death wobble" on my Jeep due to a sticky brake caliper. When the brakes would heat up, one caliper on one wheel brake would start to grab and cause an uncontrolled wobble on the highway.
Mine just did same thing
Thank You for the informative Video 💯👍💯👍Keep Up The Great Work
Yazmin Venice Beach CA ⛱️
It seems to me that that it might be a good idea to actually tack weld the nut to the bracket as well.
As I understand it, the track bar bolts rely on torque to hold them in place, not fitment. That is why they call the sleeve a crush sleeve. While I don't think having a tight fit hurts, i also don't think it should matter based on design. When I've checked my trackbar bolts, they are always tight, and not moving at all. The failure is always failure in the bushing. Torquing to spec is most important. Over time, the bolt and sleeve may fatigue, and it should be replaced every so often to get that tensile strength back.
i can 100% tell you the bushings in my Teraflex HD front track bar are not happy with me from the amount of flex myJeep has, visible cracks & tears all of the frame side bushing. There is zero issues with it causing wobbling, both bolts have been replaced with the 9/16 bolts. Our 2018 Ram Power Wagon with visibly less wear & tear on the bushings with the factory track bar & bolt has more issues with wobbling because Jeep, Ram, FCA, Stellantis, whatever you want to call them now, does not use the correct sized bolt in any of their products off the assembly line. The smaller sized bolts even when torqued to spec still have the ever slightest amount to move around under pressure, which then causes the holes to oblong or wallow out over time.
@@DirtRockTeam I guess part of it is, I check torque more than the avg person. My 2013 Power Wagon torques to 200 ft lb on both upper and lower trackbar bolts. Perhaps you can up the torque on the JL with the larger bolts now.
@@johnfitzgerald5158 maybe one could, but i don't know if i would trust the metal to hold up to it long term. It keeps getting thinner & thinner in areas where it shouldn't.
Core adjustable with Johnny joints will never move and weld a plate on
Teraflex sells a raised track bar bracket on the axle side that fixed the wallowed out hole there, will be seen in part 2 shortly. Metalcloak sells a reinforcement frame side bracket that fixes the issues there. If she continues to have issues with it. She had other issues that accelerated this problem that we are addressing as soon as parts get here.
Dynamic balance with 6m.m. airsoft beads [4 oz per tire] will dampen out any out of balance condition.
the weight is within 1.5 " of the pavement and free to rebalance continuously.
The lift is what is causing the death wobble. When you lift them you can’t get enough caster out it without adjustable radius arms. Positive caster makes the wheels want to track straight and when you lift it the caster goes negative and the wheels want to wobble around like the front wheels on a shopping cart.
Explains why stock Jeeps have death wobble as well even when their alignment is dead nuts perfect?
@@DirtRockTeam I have never seen a stock one have death wobble. If one was to it’s because they are high mileage with worn out parts. I guarantee if you put 4.5 or more positive caster in it won’t happen.
@@JohnDoe-ud2cc many JLs and JTs are rolling off the assembly line with factory set castor and having death wobble along with other steering shimmies for multiple reasons. The ones that have actually death wobble is because the factory track bar, drag link, and tie rod being thin garbage acting as a tuning fork transferring the vibration to the rest of the Jeep. There are other videos on UA-cam that show completely stock wranglers & gladiators having the steering stabilizer removed having death wobble with less than 10,000 miles on them. Steer smarts and many other companies have talked about this.
The hole wallowing out occurs because the bolts Jeep puts in are not only a tad too small but are threaded all the way when they shouldn’t be in such thin brackets.
As far as the Jeep in the video I agree that the lift is not helping the issue at all & actually making it worse that’s why adjustable control arms have been ordered to further correct all the issues that are going on.
@@DirtRockTeam I guess that’s why I don’t own a jeep and have Toyotas.
unfortunately most new vehicles suck because manufactures leave it up to the aftermarket to fix where they cut corners
in my experience if any vehicle wobbles after hitting a bump it is never tired unless the lug nuts are lose it is usually warn out steering and or suspension parts , in some cases its actually rubber in some of the mounts dried up cracking and even though you use a pry bar to test they not always will move which is why it seems to happen when the person hits a bump . on jeeps it seems to happen more then other vehicles its usually because people put larger tires then so they lift it and jeeps well there suspension doesn't support that added weight so it wears them down fast on other full size trucks it also happens but not so common because they are more beefier, sometimes people put larger heavier tires and wheel on the e jeeps run into this issue so instead of fixing it and doing a full proper job they put the stock wheels tires back on and sell the jeep, the next person buys it and everything is good for a while but then it starts happening because the damage was already done by the previous owner . I mean it is commons sense just look at the small tiny difs on a jeep and people installing 35+" wheels and tires on it that diff will have issue alone so think of all the other suspension parts plus all the rubber mounts hehe. I always loved the looks of jeeps but I would never buy one a good rule of thumb I learns was if you want a decent car first go to a auto wrecker if there is allot of them there then they have issues and when a person goes to an auto wrecker there are many Jeeps in there.
with that said if I had my own shop I probably would by one and just spend a very long time building it but for the price of that I probably could bey a new one with all the bells and whistles factory
if it was or is tired you will feel it all the time usually at slower speed like a wobble back and forth sometimes a little up and down
again this has been my experience from decades ago another thing is the grade of the bolts I have seen so many people just grab a bolt same size length and use them but then the bolt stretches causes issues all because of wrong grade of bolt or nut and I have done that when i was in my late teens working on my V8 Vega learned my lesson very quickly from that very costly mistake
🧐... there are exactly ZERO wranglers in the junk yard near me.
@@Sound_The_War-Cry not where I live in Canada there are allot of Wranglers rows of them most are pretty stripped .
myself if I had the room and a place I would have just the rails and build one take my time and allot of money doing so . I always liked the looks of jeeps and always wanted one but I couldnt afford one and for that matter afford to be fixing it allot of times because of the previous owners doing .
A Dana 44 isn’t a small differential.
@@SkilletsUSMC in all my 4x4s its not very big maybe in a jeep its probably the largest you can get with out shortening a dana 60 it which is a huge hassle the 44s are not that great
Hi my friend thank you very much making video I have same problem I have 08 jeep wrangler jk 4 door 2½ " lift thank inichë
Hi, I had a 1918 jk with death wobble and I fixed it by changing the front trackbar. You might have the same problem I had...If youget someone to turn the steering back and forth and look at the bend on your original trackbar ( the part that goes around the axel bell) YOU WILL SEE THIS PART BENDING LIKE RUBBER just mine did. Hope this helps you
1918 Jeep?
I’ve seen the same thing with the track bar. I have a 2023 eco diesel when I did my lift I changed out track bars, sway bars and all steering components. All that stuff is hollow tube and it all flexes. I run 37s and 7deg caster and it drives better than when it was new
For a jeep that’s over 100 years old you’re lucky it’s still running
Adding caster will also help reduce death wobble.
You can add castor when the control arms are not adjustable. The lift kit came with uppers but retained the factory lowers. Getting her adjustable control arms fixed that as well as getting the geometry correct with the track bar and the drag link helped as well for her
@@DirtRockTeam doesn’t matter. Adding caster will reduce death wobble. Adjustable seems like the solution then wouldn’t you think. 🤫
Metal cloak makes a reinforcement bracket for the driver side , check it out
Been eye balling that thing for our gladiator
Did anyone else recognize that the sway bar end link on the passenger side is on the wrong side of the lower bracket!!!!! I’d recommend she put the lift on correct before worrying about death wobble hahahaha!!!
It actually was addressed this same day. She is not the one who originally put the lift on either, it was the local dealer
The bracket with the wobbled out hole is what i replaced.
11:22
Have someone turn the steering wheel just a little bit, and the whole body turns to the hole. Or you could strap the seat belt to the steering wheel if you're solo.
I can understand the track bar busing wearing out, but the design of the bolt going through the bare frame mount is poor design. That should have a flanged nut welded to the back side and a flange/washer with recess for a flanged bold to slide into on the font side. This would make the single point of failure the bushing in the rod. Free Mechanical Engineering via Texas Tech grad. ;-) Thanks for the video. My wife's 2023 JL just started this behavior at 46k miles and a stock setup.
Yes and the fact that Jeep should have used a shoulder bolt so there wouldn’t be any threads to mess up the hole over time.
The first thing people should do when buying a Jeep is replace all the factory suspension parts with Moog parts. Even if you're going to leave it stock. Jeep suspension parts are junk. Death wobble on a brand new bone stock JK with 4000 miles taught me that. It's not fun.
Couldn’t agree with you more!
Thanks for this video!
Is it not possible that is a result of death wobble and not the actual cause? Seems there are some pretty certain issues that cause steering issues such as track bar and drag link not being parallel to each other or close to parallel with the axle at ride height, loose ball joints, and/or weak steering dampener. There are JLs coming off the line with death wobble. No way the track bar hole was elongated from the start. However, there are also JLs/JTs coming off the line with loose ball joints. Mine were not torqued appropriately and the castle nut could move by hand.
Edited* because i am an idiot and thought i was on a different comment:
the short answer is yes these track bar & brackets shouldn't be getting to the point her's are if the alignment is in good order. However, stock Jeeps have these issues happen even when someone has kept their alignment up to snuff. Why would anyone put a 14mm bolt in a bracket & a bushing that is made to take a 9/16 bolt from the factory? There is also a difference between death wobble and a shimmy in the steering & people are getting these confused and mixed with each other. This jeep would violently shake to the point where you had to stop the vehicle to make it stop. Since the aftermarket adjustable track bar with 9/16 bolts & the axle side bracket all she is left with is a small shimmy in the steering wheel that the vehicle will drive out of on it own. Still waiting for this to addressed once parts show up.
Jeep cut a lot of corners with the JLs & JTs which are showing to be weak points on them. Like ball joints, steering gear boxes, steering knuckles (except the Mojave JTs), the track bar bracket on the frame side is a weak point on these as well to the point where metalcloak makes a reinforcement bracket that goes over the factory frame side bracket to help prevent this wallowing issue and beef up that bracket in general.
Also did not know about the castle nuts potentially being loose. So we will double check that as well on this one. The didn't have any noticeable play when we initially checked them. So thanks for the tip!
@Iowa Off-Road Enthusiast check the torque specs on the ball joints and see if they are in spec. All of mine were loose or not to spec. The sector shaft brace is a good addition as well. Bottom line there are many factors that can contribute to the start of death wobble. I also installed a MC 3.5" GC lift and had some serious bump steer and led to occasional death wobble when I hit a bump on the right side. Going down to 2.5" lift cured the death wobble. Most likely the issue was track bar alignment. But I also had it again when installed my yeti HD Steering. Yeti calls for 3 degrees toe out vs toe in as per stock jeep specs. This eliminated the death wobble again. I still have some bump steer since I haven't adjusted the track bar alignment but no death wobble.
We have mostly Metalcloak on our gladiator for a 3.5" lift. The rear springs are HD clayton & the rear upper control arms are rock kralwer because it is their bolt on triangulated system, everything else is metalcloak though. It is darty on the road so we need to look into the alignment on it. The gear box is still the factory aluminum one, stock drag link, stock tie rod, stock steering knuckles, stock ball joints & we have none of the other issues people are experiencing. However the lift was put on pretty early. Wondering which one is going to be the next weakest link that will need replaced like with the JL
@Iowa Off-Road Enthusiast check the caster angle to help with the darting. Needs to be between 6 and 8 degrees.
Just need a heavy duty track bar brace and a new heavy duty track bar. Should have come with the lift.
Not all lift kits come with every single component that should be replaced
@@DirtRockTeam I found that out recently . I’m installing a JKS J-Max lift on my Jk and it came with all control arms and front track bar and only a bracket for the rear track bar so I had to purchase the rear track bar separate. I thought that was kind of strange for a high end kit that cost more than most kits.
Lol, that thing is crazy clunky. More than one issue. If it's lifted with all stock components then the steering geometry is screwed along with caster degree and several other problems.
Metalcloak trackbar and you'll be gold.
Normally I would say metalcloak all day, but teraflex has a better front track bar for this situation
I do not know why they do not use an actual shoulder bolt for this kind of application.
How about a completely stock 2018 JL? Front tires do have visible cupping. Anything over 70 mph and it gives ya a good shake until I slow down.
Are the wheels and tires stock as well or have they been changed?
Just happened with my 2018 stock JL. I was going over 65 when it happened a week ago
Just buy some 4130 flat bar drill and ream to a perfect fit!
Not possible with every application, just depends on how large the diff cover is & how it sticks out. A flat bar, as much as I would like to use one on my wrangler, it will not clear the diff cover & I would lose travel
ARE YOU WORKING IN A ICE BOX / DON'T THEY PUT THE HEAT ON A HOUR OR TWO BEFORE YOU GUYS GO TO WORK ? / IT WILL TAKE MORE FUEL TO HEAT SHOP IF YOU ONLY PUT THE HEAT ON RIGHT BEFORE YOU START WORK TO HEAT THE SHOP UP TO PAR / LEAVE THE HEAT ON LIKE AT LEAST 50 DEGREES OVER NIGHT AND A HOUR BEFORE YOU START WORK TURN IT UP TO AT LEAST 68 DEGREES THEN IT WILL TAKE LESS FUEL TO GET THE TEMPERATURE UP TO A FEEL GOOD WORKING TEMPERATURE SO YOU CAN GET MORE WORK DONE INSTEAD OF FREEZING YOUR BALLS OFF STANDING AROUND TRYING TO STAY WARM / GET A WOOD BURNER STOVE / A COAL STOVE HEATER IS BETTER THEN WOOD (LESS WORK AND E/Z CLEAN WITH THE RIGHT COAL ) OR A WAST OIL BURNER / GOOD LUCK MAN THANKS FOR THE SAFETY FIX IT INFO
Dude the garage is not insulated there is no way I am leaving any heater run for any amount of time when not out there
@@DirtRockTeam SORRY ABOUT THAT I THOUGHT IT WAS A FULL TIME SHOP / FIRST TIME I LOOKED AT THE CHANEL / I SHOULD OF DONE MY HOME WORK / IT JUST WATCHING YOU WORK IN THE COLD /WHAT CAN I SAY
Just need steering stabilizers; wobble is just a torsional vibration at resonance; just need good dampening.
A conservative build helps, minimize size, width and weight!
Dude you don't know anything about Jeeps if you think a sterling stabilizer is going to fix your death wobble
FORGET YOU JACKASS!!! GO BANG YOUR MOMMY JACKASS LIBERAL GO VOTE FOR BIDEN FOOL!
When did tom arnold become a mechanic?
Start to remove death wobble, first thing is caster,caster,caster then track bar
How do you fix caster on a brand new stock Jeep with death wobble?
@DirtRockTeam replace the caster bushings with 3.5 degree positive bushings you can get the from Napa, check any front end parts first also tires and track bar bushings the positive camber will re-enter the steering wheel faster after turns also make the center axis of the front wheels more forward like they were before engineers ,you will then have to get the front end aligned changed them
@@tomking5822 this is the information I am going to give the next JL/JT owner who complains their brand new completely stock Jeep with less than 1,000 miles has death wobble and sen them your way to fix it.
What wheels are those? Looking to upgrade from standard rubicon wheels
Not 100% sure but I know they are Black Rhino wheels
I have a 1989 jeep cherokee 4×4 what would cause it to death wobble? Reaaly bad ?
Could be worn out track bar bushing, wallowed out track bar holes, poor steering geometry if it is lifted, crappy tires, worn out control arm bushings, crappy alignment, it could be all of the above at the same time
Didn't the lock washer need to be directly on the frame and not another washer ?
can not say it is correct for how we do it, but we have never had any issues by doing it this way in any application
No. lock washers should have a flat washer under them.
Control arms and track bar
Wrap the bolt with foil tape...
I can already see there is a backspacing problem.
just a quick new message my jk was 2018 not 1918 lol
Hmm… loose stock track bar…
Sometimes. In her case unfortunately it wasn’t loose. But it does make me wonder if the factory torque spec is enough to begin with
new trackbar, new springs shocks, new tires balanced, jeep specialty shop sees nothing wrong, still death wobble, anyone have an idea???? wrangler jl 18
The steering components on the JLs act like tuning forks because they are so thin. Doctor death wobble cut each one apart and should how much thinner they are even to a factory JK. May have to upgrade the tie rod and drag link if those are still stock. However the early JLs also had aluminum steering gear boxes and aluminum bolts that hold it to the frame. Over time these will deflect from the frame & cause “death wobble” or a steering shimmy as well. May want to look into this as we have a buddy with an 18 JLU who had a steering shimmy, he did the Synergy track bar & sector shaft brace & has had no issues since
Only one more comment you use the coarse thread instead of a fine thread so you will not get the same tightness🎉 for the torque
Are you giving away secrets? They get lots of trade-ins from the stupid job the way they make it.😂 where the bolts go in if you get a grade 8 washer and weld it on both sides it will be much stronger😂
The grade washer we got to do just that wasn’t much thicker than the frame side bracket itself. Left us hesitant to do this popular fix on this one. Metalcloak makes a frame side reinforcement bracket that goes over it altogether that will end up going on our gladiator
And did this end the wobble?
Not 100%, she had to purchase adjust control arms on the front to help adjust the castor to further correct it. The lift provided lowers for the lift height but required her to reuse the factory uppers.
No issues here with my 2021
it should have DW yet
Unfortunately with how thin of metal all the stock steering components are on the JLs & JTs coupled with aluminum steering gear boxes there are thousands of people having death wobble or other steering shimmies right from the dealers
ua-cam.com/video/5Ua7lvwTJ3o/v-deo.html you will find the answer in the embedded video from trailrecon with a jeep technician.. answer comes at the end of the video.
Steering stabilizers do not cause or fix death wobble. A steering staibilkzer is nothing more than a dampener on a steering linkage and has nothing to do with the side to side movement of the axle. The track bar is the only component that keeps the axle centered. Death wobble occurs when the track bar has issues and can no longer keep the axle centered while going down the road. If a mechanic misdiagnosis a steering shimmy for death wobble than a steering stabilizer will falsely fix the issue.
Weld the nut
All around fix for all death wobble on Chrysler and dodge vehicles is actually pretty simple....
Trade it in for a Toyota Tacoma and quit talking about those things people call jeeps.
All vehicles suck 🤷♀️
good video learn something. but I got a question what does installing a front adjustable track bar on a Jeep Gladiator Rubicon do for the jeep?
It allows you to re-center your axle after a lift kit is installed on a vehicle. Helps to ensure the vehicle drives similar or better than stock.
My Xj drove perfect, I then used 2 inch thick spacers/bolt pattern adapters so as to use a newer wheel. First drive at 50 mph it started severe death wobble. Any ideas why? Would the 2 in spacers cause this?
They could because your pushing the weight of your wheels & tires further out from you ball joints, changing your scrub radius. In doing so it puts more stress on your balljoints and also the steering components. If any of those were already wore out will bring those to light more. Not being torqued properly at the spacers or the wheel could cause it also so double check that the spacers and the wheels are properly torqued.
@@DirtRockTeamthank you for the reply. I always triple check the lug nuts torque. I can’t see anything moving when rocking the steering wheel. I read somewhere that the spacers could throw the alignment off enough to cause death wobble. Just trying to weed everything else out before realigning the front end.
@@ronnie32567 sometimes you may not see tiny movement right away. I have seen people have very minimal movement that still causes issues
Thanks I’ll recheck
someone was saying that the bolts to use on the track bar is 9/16 x 3" grade 8 bolt he was saying the the fine thread is better that true?
Yes that is true. But we have a hard time finding the right length in a fine thread bolt in town where we live
Morponlospatosy6