I'm not sure how many times I've watched this series. Probably close to 15 times. It's probably one of the best small block chevy builds. Thank you for the great series
I throughly enjoyed the entire series of videos. You attention to detail and cleanliness spoke to me.. I have watched it through twice at this point. I have never posted a comment to a video before, but I felt compelled after seeing these. If you ever do the transfer case or front diff... be sure to post videos.
I didn't see you pull the plastic coupler that fell in the belly of the block. I hope you removed it! LoL Also I was taught I could use lock tight on the pickup to the pump.
+Mario Monti I did go fishing for it just after I filmed that clip...lol. I've never used loctite on the pickup tube- but there's nothing wrong with a bit more insurance! Take care, G.
That bearing used to install harmonic balancer looks much like a wheel stud installation tool for 1 ton dual wheel hubs and drums. Slide it over the stud and put the nut on the bearing and it draws the studs through the rotor and wheel extension . I use them on my k 3500s. those dart heads look nice .
It could be one, not sure. That does give me the idea to use it for wheel studs if I ever have the need so thanks for the post. The heads have been working out great so far. Take care, G.
That last shot was beautiful. Those pistons look to good to cover up...! You've done an awesome job G...! That V8 looks really good and I'm sure you'll thoroughly enjoy every single mile. You have earned it!
I agree Bain, they do look too good to cover up. Thanks! It was a lot of labor, but worth it. I've put about 100mi on it so far and it's not missing a beat. G.
bain5872 It wasn't a formula or anything. In the manual they gave an alternative method if you're torquing heads, and other things. That's what I used. I purchased a cheap torque angle gauge from a big box auto store. It was truly junk and would flex before the needle would even move- probably about almost 45 degrees. I could not justify buying a better one for this one job so I used the other methods. G.
I just put new rod and main bearings in my 350 and after torquing the cap bolts on both now the motor won't spin over at all,how do I fix it?Only replaced rod and main bearings,no machine work done to block and didn't remove the pistons.
It's hard to say for sure, but I can give you some things to check but you will be undoing much of what was already done. But, since it's locked up something needs to be done anyway. I'm also assuming you tried a socket to turn it at the balancer as well. I'm assuming the engine is out of the vehicle. The first thing I would do is to check the old rod and main bearings for size. If the engine has never been rebuilt they should say STD on them. If it was rebuilt at some point they should say something like .010, .020, .030, etc. Then I would pull one of your new rod bearings and one main bearing and make sure they match what was in there. If your old rod/main bearings say STD and your new ones say something like .010- you would have the problem you mention for sure. If they are the same, I would loosen all rod cap nuts and break the caps loose but leave them connected to the crank- loosely. Then loosen all main cap bolts and break the caps loose. then torque one down and spin the crank. If it still spins, torque another and spin it again. Keep going until they are all torqued and spin in-between each torquing. If you get to one and it stops spinning, you need to find the problem right there before moving on. After the crank is satisfied and still spinning, move on to the rods and do the same procedure. Torque one, spin, and move on to another. Same deal, if you get to one that locks it up, stop and locate/correct the problem. The rods and caps are sized as a unit (machined to a specific sized hole and honed) so each cap must be put back exactly where it came from AND in the proper direction. They should be stamped before dis-assembly to keep things straight. If they were/are mixed up- it could possibly cause the same issue. They can also become egg shaped. It is possible the rods need to be re-sized and honed to use a new insert, but I would try the above first. Hope this helps in some way and good luck, G.
+anna teel what ever happened with your engine, was it the rods were on backwards? I know if you dont put the caps or rods pointing in the right direction the engine will not turn over smooth.
For first time engine rebuild. When I used one of those torque angle while back, it broked. When I torqued head down. Last step required torque angle. During that time. I didn't know where the spec needed to be at. So I thought for while. Then I looked at my wall clock, without second hand. Then I looked at my torque angle. I saw that the wall clock and torque angle has the same amount of lines. Which on wall clock. Each small line contains 1 minute. And on torque angle contains 2°. That doesn't really matter, between wall clock and torque angle. Because 12 o'clock is 0°. 1 o'clock is 30°. 2 o 'clock is 60°. 3 o'clock is 90° 4 o'clock is 120° . 5 o'clock is 150°. 6 o'clock is 180°. So from 6 back to 12. Which be 210°,,, 240°,,, 270°,,, 300°,,, 330°,,, back to 0°. Now just by using the minute on the wall clock. 12:05, it be 10° on torque angle. Now if its 12:07 it be 12° on torque angle. 12:10, be 20° So on your part. Your last step was 75° to torque the crank. That 75°, be right around the center of 12:10 and 12:15. Or the center of the lines, between 2 o'clock and 3 o'clock.
I have the same motor but 4 bolt main L31 and I put in total seal rings on the Mahle Pistons and the PM connecting rods got King Hp bearings and the 1053 forged crankshaft rides in King HP main bearings I decked the block to Zero and I have milodon oil pump and edelbrock performer rpm heads with full CNC Port/Polished 64cc heads also a performer rpm air gap intake and LS7 Caddy Race Lifters and a Bullet Cams custom grind 226/238 565/565 lift camshaft topped with a Edelbrock Avs2 650cfm carb with a 1" spacer
I always punch mark the rods (if they're not already marked) before I take them out. Then the machinist will keep them in the same order and adjust the cylinders for any fluctuations in piston diameter for that specific hole. Other than that- the orientation of the rod and piston must be correct when they're put together- and then installed. Really rusty here- so do more research. Hope this helps, G.
Question- my oil holes on my factory roller lifters (2000 L31 350) are not oriented to the front or back, but instead the top or bottom? Did GM change the oil hole location on the newer models? I installed them with the oil holes to towards the heads/ bottom, thinking gravity would send oil to the lowest point first…… any input/ advice?
I looked them up, and it does appear the holes are in a different location. I shouldn't matter which way they face, but I would've installed them just as you did. Take care, G.
Obviously I'm commenting as I finish watching each episode in order! Hope you found the plastic piece that fell into the block? I'm really enjoying this for some reason (memories I guess). Thought rings were sharp, cut my fingers on them once when installing them on Pistons and/or preoiing, but you seem to have no worries? Since your using racing heads (nice), are those beautiful new Pistons of the racing type also? My Hat is off to you on that "special tool" you machined for the balancer installer! BTW, I have a pair of jeans with air conditioning just like yours (mine is on the left knee though - Haha). I'll say it again, but thanks for taking the time and effort to video and give us a blow by blow (know you were in a hurry)!
I did Mac- just after shooting the clip I dug it out. Glad you're enjoying the series. These rings weren't too sharp. The pistons are Hypereutectic. This was a new one on me. They're supposed to expand less due to their alloy makeup. They also have a coating on the shirts that is supposed to make them glide in the holes better. Who knows... The tool worked out quite well for sure, thanks! I think I ruined about 10 shirts and many pair of jeans. I finally got to the bottom of the drawer for the a/c pairs...lol. It did take a long time to shoot the videos- but it's worth it if one or two folks like them. Thanks again, G.
I'm pretty sure all mine were the same with the exception of one that had a stud. You can see it here. I don't recall what went on it. Good luck, G. ua-cam.com/video/u3YeokFlBhg/v-deo.html
Caleb, once both assemblies are installed on the journal, the flat sides should touch each other, and the sides with the large chamfer should point towards the crank weights. The large chamfer is to make room for the fillet on the ends of the journal. Make sure you get the pistons pointed in the correct way as the rod has the same features as the cap. The line, arrow, dot, etc. on the piston should point towards the front of the engine. Dig around to verify my comments, but they should be correct. Hope this helps, G.
@@ghostses so the flat parts im talking about dont touch. Had one side with pistons and rods flipped backwards and moved the dot arrow thing on piston towards front of engine. The caps with the flat side dont face each other with the right piston direction. Thanks though but i figured it our
Man, I can't say for sure. I tried to cover every detail, but obviously I missed this one. The manual states to do the first pass to 20ft lbs, then an additional 55 degrees past that. I know I used the alternative method with straight torque settings, but I didn't document what I did, so I don't know. I would search for the alternative method. Sorry I couldn't answer directly, but I tried my best. Hope you get it figured out. Good luck, G.
Hopefully someone sees this lol I am building a 2 bolt main 5.7 Vortec for my 98 K2500 and I was thinking of putting ARP main studs in but I would have to get rid of the stock windage tray, which do you think is more important?
I am doing the same thing to my 99 yukon. I have seen some guys that will use arp studs for all the mains except for the 3 that hold down the windage tray, idk about how well that works. Steve Dulcich has a video out that point out that not all apr studs are better than oem. For my build I am going to try and get 500 hp with a 100 shot, using afr heads new flat top pistons ect. I would like to use arp studs also. Good luck buddy
I do Jason- but I can't give them to you right now. I'm having computer problems so I can't get to my archived files. Hit me up in a week to see if I can give them to you. Do that and I will provide them. Take care, G>
Alright Jason- I'm back online. These are the pistons I used and they came withe the rings. Be aware that these were for my punched out bore size. Order for yours of course. Hope this helps, G. www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-8KH815ACP30
No, that' not how I approach it. I install the crank gear then turn the crank so the dot on the gear is at 12 o'clock . I'm pretty sure that's TDC on number 1. Then I put the cam gear on without the chain and turn it till the dot is at 6 o'clock. Then take off the cam gear, install the chain around both, then install the cam gear. Hope this helps, G.
The old guy Walking LOL! Thanks man! I guess it is strange to use an expensive Montblanc pen as a pointer....lol. A great gift from my wife! You've got a very keen eye! Take care, G.
aj fitzgerald Good deal! 180 out on what- the distributor or the timing gears? If it was the distributor, you should've still had compression but it would have popped and cracked but not run. Good you figured it out either way. Take care, G.
340 bucks per head? that's pretty cheap if they came with the valves. if so, put some layout dye on them seats and see just how poor of a job was done. you'd be surprised. in my opinion, which may not be worth much to some, new heads should be sent in for valve work. 3 angle job. thanks for the series, I enjoy watching other people go through engines...now if only one of mine would give out so I don't have to watch. nice job.
I thought so Jeff. They did come with stainless valves and a 3 angle valve job. They're made by Dart and sold under the Summit brand. Glad you like the series. Take care, G. www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-151124
Luis, the plugs were only installed so I could prime the engine with oil on the stand. They were removed and the cooler lines reinstalled just before it went back in the truck. Take care, G.
Melissa, you started watching someone else's video and the next clip turned into mine. I've heard this before. Mine was always a 2 bolt main. Good luck, G.
an issue of Car Craft with a low buck Vortec 5.7 build (with the stock pistons since the 96+ cores have little bore wear esp with EFI and the metric rings) - the .020 top piston ring gap is related 2 the piston design which is a hypereuthetic (the Keith Black hypereuthetics recommend an .026 top ring gap and the second ring is usually .018 minimum; im about 2 overhaul a stock L31 which is in need of a crankshaft
Yeah, I would go with whatever the manufacture of the pistons recommend. I went with Sealed Power which came with the rings and only checked the top ring. Good luck with your build! G.
My bad, started with a robinsonauto video when watching about a L31 rebuild, UA-cam auto play, or jumping between internet windows must have thrown things off track, but not much- because things picked up from where the last video stopped, except for the noticing the main bolt difference from what I was expecting. Sorrry
Doing a how to video , you should actually show the process of each step instead of before and after. That is no help. Example rear main seal, not well I installed this and here it is
Find another then David. It is what it was and still carries some value. It was never a how-to video or it would've been titled as such. It was what I had going on and I CHOSE to show it to the world. It's helped many in some form or another. If you can't find the value, that's on you. G.
aj fitzgerald It could be a few things off the top of my head. Not likely, the block was bored oversize but it has standard rings in it. The lifters may be adjusted too tight so the valves aren't fully closing. Most likely though, the timing chain set was not installed properly so the cam is not in time with the crankshaft. The timing marks should line up. The cam mark should be a 6 o'clock and the crank mark should be at 12 o'clock. G.
I'm not sure how many times I've watched this series. Probably close to 15 times. It's probably one of the best small block chevy builds. Thank you for the great series
Thanks James. Glad you like the series. Take care, G.
I throughly enjoyed the entire series of videos. You attention to detail and cleanliness spoke to me.. I have watched it through twice at this point. I have never posted a comment to a video before, but I felt compelled after seeing these. If you ever do the transfer case or front diff... be sure to post videos.
Thanks! I'm glad you liked the series. I hope to never have to do the transfer case or diff, but if I do- I'll post for sure. Take care, G.
I didn't see you pull the plastic coupler that fell in the belly of the block. I hope you removed it! LoL Also I was taught I could use lock tight on the pickup to the pump.
+Mario Monti
I did go fishing for it just after I filmed that clip...lol. I've never used loctite on the pickup tube- but there's nothing wrong with a bit more insurance! Take care, G.
This really helped as far as where to put the gasket maker for the oil pan once I changed my timing chain cover. Great video. Thank You
Thanks Jeffery! Glad it was helpful. Take care, G.
That bearing used to install harmonic balancer looks much like a wheel stud installation tool for 1 ton dual wheel hubs and drums. Slide it over the stud and put the nut on the bearing and it draws the studs through the rotor and wheel extension . I use them on my k 3500s. those dart heads look nice .
It could be one, not sure. That does give me the idea to use it for wheel studs if I ever have the need so thanks for the post. The heads have been working out great so far. Take care, G.
Fantastic work! Greetings from Poland!
Thanks Marcin! G.
That last shot was beautiful. Those pistons look to good to cover up...! You've done an awesome job G...! That V8 looks really good and I'm sure you'll thoroughly enjoy every single mile. You have earned it!
I agree Bain, they do look too good to cover up. Thanks! It was a lot of labor, but worth it. I've put about 100mi on it so far and it's not missing a beat. G.
*****
I forgot to ask, how did you come up with 77ft lbs from the degrees of rotation? I might find that useful at some point in the future.
bain5872
It wasn't a formula or anything. In the manual they gave an alternative method if you're torquing heads, and other things. That's what I used. I purchased a cheap torque angle gauge from a big box auto store. It was truly junk and would flex before the needle would even move- probably about almost 45 degrees. I could not justify buying a better one for this one job so I used the other methods. G.
thanks for the videos, gave me an idea on how much money ill put into my rebuild.
Thanks! Glad they were helpful. Good luck, G.
I got it. He sounds like ross peroe. Or mr Rogers. (Mr rogers neighborhood ) love your videos
I've heard Mr. Rogers before- but Ross is a new one for me. He's a blast from the past! Take care, G.
I always had oil pan leaks until I took my pans and ball peened the bolt holes back to where they are flat again before they were previosly tightened.
Very true Don! I used to do the same thing when I built other engines. It wasn't required here, but the tip should help others out. Take care, G.
I cant stop watching good job. i was wonder if you got that plastic piece out also LOl. subbed
LOL! Yeah, I did. Glad you're liking the series. Take care, G.
I just put new rod and main bearings in my 350 and after torquing the cap bolts on both now the motor won't spin over at all,how do I fix it?Only replaced rod and main bearings,no machine work done to block and didn't remove the pistons.
It's hard to say for sure, but I can give you some things to check but you will be undoing much of what was already done. But, since it's locked up something needs to be done anyway. I'm also assuming you tried a socket to turn it at the balancer as well.
I'm assuming the engine is out of the vehicle. The first thing I would do is to check the old rod and main bearings for size. If the engine has never been rebuilt they should say STD on them. If it was rebuilt at some point they should say something like .010, .020, .030, etc. Then I would pull one of your new rod bearings and one main bearing and make sure they match what was in there. If your old rod/main bearings say STD and your new ones say something like .010- you would have the problem you mention for sure. If they are the same, I would loosen all rod cap nuts and break the caps loose but leave them connected to the crank- loosely. Then loosen all main cap bolts and break the caps loose. then torque one down and spin the crank. If it still spins, torque another and spin it again. Keep going until they are all torqued and spin in-between each torquing. If you get to one and it stops spinning, you need to find the problem right there before moving on. After the crank is satisfied and still spinning, move on to the rods and do the same procedure. Torque one, spin, and move on to another. Same deal, if you get to one that locks it up, stop and locate/correct the problem.
The rods and caps are sized as a unit (machined to a specific sized hole and honed) so each cap must be put back exactly where it came from AND in the proper direction. They should be stamped before dis-assembly to keep things straight. If they were/are mixed up- it could possibly cause the same issue. They can also become egg shaped. It is possible the rods need to be re-sized and honed to use a new insert, but I would try the above first. Hope this helps in some way and good luck, G.
+anna teel what ever happened with your engine, was it the rods were on backwards? I know if you dont put the caps or rods pointing in the right direction the engine will not turn over smooth.
Did you put the cap on backwards?
For first time engine rebuild. When I used one of those torque angle while back, it broked. When I torqued head down. Last step required torque angle. During that time. I didn't know where the spec needed to be at. So I thought for while. Then I looked at my wall clock, without second hand. Then I looked at my torque angle. I saw that the wall clock and torque angle has the same amount of lines. Which on wall clock. Each small line contains 1 minute. And on torque angle contains 2°. That doesn't really matter, between wall clock and torque angle. Because 12 o'clock is 0°. 1 o'clock is 30°. 2 o 'clock is 60°. 3 o'clock is 90° 4 o'clock is 120° . 5 o'clock is 150°. 6 o'clock is 180°. So from 6 back to 12. Which be 210°,,, 240°,,, 270°,,, 300°,,, 330°,,, back to 0°.
Now just by using the minute on the wall clock. 12:05, it be 10° on torque angle. Now if its 12:07 it be 12° on torque angle. 12:10, be 20°
So on your part. Your last step was 75° to torque the crank. That 75°, be right around the center of 12:10 and 12:15. Or the center of the lines, between 2 o'clock and 3 o'clock.
Good info. Thanks, G.
Your welcome. Something for you to think of when rebuilding an engine.
For sure, G.
Just a little tip. You should alternate tightening the cap and not taking them to full torque one side at a time.
I did take them up in two stages as specified in the alternate method. Take care, G.
I have the same motor but 4 bolt main L31 and I put in total seal rings on the Mahle Pistons and the PM connecting rods got King Hp bearings and the 1053 forged crankshaft rides in King HP main bearings I decked the block to Zero and I have milodon oil pump and edelbrock performer rpm heads with full CNC Port/Polished 64cc heads also a performer rpm air gap intake and LS7 Caddy Race Lifters and a Bullet Cams custom grind 226/238 565/565 lift camshaft topped with a Edelbrock Avs2 650cfm carb with a 1" spacer
Ok, good deal Richard. Hope your build works well. G.
@@ghostses should have went Ls brother
@@richardclary6267 This is what what in the truck, so I went with it. Nuff said, G.
How do you tell which connecting rod/piston goes in which cylinder? I'm building the same engine. Great series.
I always punch mark the rods (if they're not already marked) before I take them out. Then the machinist will keep them in the same order and adjust the cylinders for any fluctuations in piston diameter for that specific hole. Other than that- the orientation of the rod and piston must be correct when they're put together- and then installed. Really rusty here- so do more research. Hope this helps, G.
Question- my oil holes on my factory roller lifters (2000 L31 350) are not oriented to the front or back, but instead the top or bottom? Did GM change the oil hole location on the newer models? I installed them with the oil holes to towards the heads/ bottom, thinking gravity would send oil to the lowest point first…… any input/ advice?
I looked them up, and it does appear the holes are in a different location. I shouldn't matter which way they face, but I would've installed them just as you did. Take care, G.
@@ghostsesTHANK YOU!!!!!
Obviously I'm commenting as I finish watching each episode in order! Hope you found the plastic piece that fell into the block? I'm really enjoying this for some reason (memories I guess). Thought rings were sharp, cut my fingers on them once when installing them on Pistons and/or preoiing, but you seem to have no worries? Since your using racing heads (nice), are those beautiful new Pistons of the racing type also? My Hat is off to you on that "special tool" you machined for the balancer installer! BTW, I have a pair of jeans with air conditioning just like yours (mine is on the left knee though - Haha). I'll say it again, but thanks for taking the time and effort to video and give us a blow by blow (know you were in a hurry)!
I did Mac- just after shooting the clip I dug it out. Glad you're enjoying the series. These rings weren't too sharp. The pistons are Hypereutectic. This was a new one on me. They're supposed to expand less due to their alloy makeup. They also have a coating on the shirts that is supposed to make them glide in the holes better. Who knows... The tool worked out quite well for sure, thanks! I think I ruined about 10 shirts and many pair of jeans. I finally got to the bottom of the drawer for the a/c pairs...lol. It did take a long time to shoot the videos- but it's worth it if one or two folks like them. Thanks again, G.
What is the torque if your corner ones aren't nuts and are bolts? Is it the same 18ft?
Not really sure. But if the bolts are larger than the others for the corners, I would go with 18ft lbs. Not much help, but good luck! G.
Did i miss something? I was under the impression you started with a 4 bolt main 350?
That was someone else's video William. Mine was always a 2 bolt. Take care, G.
Good video
Thanks, G.
I hope you got that white plastic piece out of the motor that dropped in the you where putting the oil pump in
I did Mike- just after filming the clip. Take care, G.
Are all the pan bolts the same size or is there 2 long ones and the rest short on this year
I'm pretty sure all mine were the same with the exception of one that had a stud. You can see it here. I don't recall what went on it. Good luck, G.
ua-cam.com/video/u3YeokFlBhg/v-deo.html
Did you ever get that white plastic oil pump rod collar out of #7 cylinder?
LOL! I did Don, right after shooting the clip. Take care, G.
Can i use the vortic head for old small block 1986 chevy ?
I do not know. I would look elsewhere for the answer. Good luck, G.
Question. My journal caps have one rounded side and one flat side. Do i want the flat sides of 2 caps touching or pointed away from eachother?
Caleb, once both assemblies are installed on the journal, the flat sides should touch each other, and the sides with the large chamfer should point towards the crank weights. The large chamfer is to make room for the fillet on the ends of the journal. Make sure you get the pistons pointed in the correct way as the rod has the same features as the cap. The line, arrow, dot, etc. on the piston should point towards the front of the engine. Dig around to verify my comments, but they should be correct. Hope this helps, G.
@@ghostses so the flat parts im talking about dont touch. Had one side with pistons and rods flipped backwards and moved the dot arrow thing on piston towards front of engine. The caps with the flat side dont face each other with the right piston direction. Thanks though but i figured it our
Good deal! Glad you got it sorted out. Take care, G.
@@ghostses thank you for replying on a 3 or 4 year old video so fast! Preciate homie
No problem man! Good luck, G.
How much lbs on torque yo did for oil pan bolts 8mm?
I don't know the size, but the 4 stud nuts got 18ft lbs. and the bolts got 116in lbs. G.
What would be the connecting rod bolt torque specs? Is it 40lbs to 45?
Man, I can't say for sure. I tried to cover every detail, but obviously I missed this one. The manual states to do the first pass to 20ft lbs, then an additional 55 degrees past that. I know I used the alternative method with straight torque settings, but I didn't document what I did, so I don't know. I would search for the alternative method. Sorry I couldn't answer directly, but I tried my best. Hope you get it figured out. Good luck, G.
Hopefully someone sees this lol I am building a 2 bolt main 5.7 Vortec for my 98 K2500 and I was thinking of putting ARP main studs in but I would have to get rid of the stock windage tray, which do you think is more important?
I am doing the same thing to my 99 yukon. I have seen some guys that will use arp studs for all the mains except for the 3 that hold down the windage tray, idk about how well that works. Steve Dulcich has a video out that point out that not all apr studs are better than oem. For my build I am going to try and get 500 hp with a 100 shot, using afr heads new flat top pistons ect. I would like to use arp studs also. Good luck buddy
I can't say. G.
Hello, do you have the part numbers (or links) for the pistons and rings that you used?
I do Jason- but I can't give them to you right now. I'm having computer problems so I can't get to my archived files. Hit me up in a week to see if I can give them to you. Do that and I will provide them. Take care, G>
Alright Jason- I'm back online. These are the pistons I used and they came withe the rings. Be aware that these were for my punched out bore size. Order for yours of course. Hope this helps, G.
www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-8KH815ACP30
With what effort did the connecting rod bolts tighten?
Sorry, I don't recall. I found an alternative torque spec somewhere but can't say where. Good luck, G.
my manual says to install timing gear with number 6 cylinder at tdc compression stroke for v8. Is that what you did?
No, that' not how I approach it. I install the crank gear then turn the crank so the dot on the gear is at 12 o'clock . I'm pretty sure that's TDC on number 1. Then I put the cam gear on without the chain and turn it till the dot is at 6 o'clock. Then take off the cam gear, install the chain around both, then install the cam gear. Hope this helps, G.
Thanks, I got!
No problem! G.
What head gasket did u use
Jaime Huerta Jaime, they're Fel-Pro gaskets. This is the gasket set I used. Good luck, G.www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-HST7733PT16
Was your cam OEM or was it aftermarket?
It was an aftermarket cam with a stock grind. Here's a link to the one I purchased. G.
www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-CS-1573
Old video but what rod bearings did you use? Or what do you recommend for a std rod bearing for a 5.7 vortec?? Thanks
Jaime, I used Clevite P-Series bearings for the rods and mains. Hope this helps, G.
Hi. What are the three long bolts for?
Graham, if you can give me a timestamp in the video, I may be able to answer your question. G.
great videos. What book are you using as reference for this engine.
Thanks Daniel. I'm pretty sure this is the exact pdf I used. Good luck, G.
www.skidim.com/images/L510015.pdf
@@ghostses That's exactly what I was looking for thanks.
@@ghostses Between the book and your videos (which i loved) I feel much more confident at tackling this job.
@@danieltaylor2340 No problem! G.
@@danieltaylor2340 Good deal Daniel! If you do a rebuild- between the book and what I've shown here, you should be good to go. Take care, G.
I like your pen lol
The old guy Walking LOL! Thanks man! I guess it is strange to use an expensive Montblanc pen as a pointer....lol. A great gift from my wife! You've got a very keen eye! Take care, G.
Speed pro digital diamond cut pistons ?
Pam Lafrance Great eye Pam! Yes, those are the pistons I used. Good luck, G.
The block you took apart was 4 bolt mains now block you putting back together is 2 bolt main what happen to other block .
@@tedwisneski1286 Hmmm.....I didn't even notice, wtf lol
Figured it out we were 180 degrees of time the engine is for racing so ya
aj fitzgerald Good deal! 180 out on what- the distributor or the timing gears? If it was the distributor, you should've still had compression but it would have popped and cracked but not run. Good you figured it out either way. Take care, G.
340 bucks per head? that's pretty cheap if they came with the valves. if so, put some layout dye on them seats and see just how poor of a job was done. you'd be surprised. in my opinion, which may not be worth much to some, new heads should be sent in for valve work. 3 angle job. thanks for the series, I enjoy watching other people go through engines...now if only one of mine would give out so I don't have to watch. nice job.
I thought so Jeff. They did come with stainless valves and a 3 angle valve job. They're made by Dart and sold under the Summit brand. Glad you like the series. Take care, G.
www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-151124
I'm thought it was a 4 bolt main block when you broke it down.
No Bismark, it's a two bolt main. Take care, G.
I thought the same thing, might have been another dude.
It must have been. G.
if you plug the oil cooler lines you might not get oil circulation
Luis, the plugs were only installed so I could prime the engine with oil on the stand. They were removed and the cooler lines reinstalled just before it went back in the truck. Take care, G.
How'd a 4bolt block turn into a 2?🤔
Melissa, you started watching someone else's video and the next clip turned into mine. I've heard this before. Mine was always a 2 bolt main. Good luck, G.
@@ghostses yeah I figured it out right after posting. But thanks Ganster!
Cool! Blap Blap! Take care, G.
what are the gap specs 4 the piston rings
I believe it called for .015-.098. G.
an issue of Car Craft with a low buck Vortec 5.7 build (with the stock pistons since the 96+ cores have little bore wear esp with EFI and the metric rings) - the .020 top piston ring gap is related 2 the piston design which is a hypereuthetic (the Keith Black hypereuthetics recommend an .026 top ring gap and the second ring is usually .018 minimum; im about 2 overhaul a stock L31 which is in need of a crankshaft
Yeah, I would go with whatever the manufacture of the pistons recommend. I went with Sealed Power which came with the rings and only checked the top ring. Good luck with your build! G.
Go to the pawn shop and buy a socket for a dollar. Damn!
No need. I got it done. Good luck, G.
thought you were excited that it was a 4 bolt main, why are we now seeing a 2 bolt main???
My bad, started with a robinsonauto video when watching about a L31 rebuild, UA-cam auto play, or jumping between internet windows must have thrown things off track, but not much- because things picked up from where the last video stopped, except for the noticing the main bolt difference from what I was expecting. Sorrry
I keep getting asked that question. I never had a 4 bolt main. G.
LOL! Well that finally explains it. It must be from a playlist, or the next auto play video is not his- but mine. Take care, G.
Whats the part number for those heads?
Matthew, here's a link to the heads I used. Good luck, G.
www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-151124
@@ghostses are these 350 bucks a set or a piece
350 for 1 Rodney. Take care, G.
No plasti guage?
+Dave Butch
Everything was miked out by the machinist for tolerated clearances. I trusted his skill, so I didn't check his work. Take care, G.
thats not the way to torq main's you start in the center and stager them out !
Oh bull! it doesn't matter one bit on the mains how it's done. The heads are where it does. G.
Doing a how to video , you should actually show the process of each step instead of before and after. That is no help. Example rear main seal, not well I installed this and here it is
Find another then David. It is what it was and still carries some value. It was never a how-to video or it would've been titled as such. It was what I had going on and I CHOSE to show it to the world. It's helped many in some form or another. If you can't find the value, that's on you. G.
My engine has no compression just rebuilt
aj fitzgerald It could be a few things off the top of my head. Not likely, the block was bored oversize but it has standard rings in it. The lifters may be adjusted too tight so the valves aren't fully closing. Most likely though, the timing chain set was not installed properly so the cam is not in time with the crankshaft. The timing marks should line up. The cam mark should be a 6 o'clock and the crank mark should be at 12 o'clock. G.
Timing gear
aj fitzgerald Good deal! G.
You dropped the plastic thing in there!!!!! Stop!!!!!!!! Ahhhhhhh!!!! Noooooooo!!!!!!!
I did. I got it out after the clip. G.